Having struggled with my own designs for a KlickyNG-inspired probe for my 2 bed slingers, I am a little irritated with the KlackEnder dock's elegant simplicity. Amazing work.
This is another ingenious design KevinAKAsam. And another fantastic instructional video by ModBot. Thank you for this and all for all you do to help all of us.
@@coreyhutton478 who exactly are you talking to and why in the world are you so angry about someone that appreciates these modifications and tutorials? Sounds like you need a nappy nap.
@@ModBotArmy tbh you are becoming a pretty damn good resource for those of us who just need a little more visual learning and handholding to go with all the relevant reading on these relatively current 3d printing topics…(at least for those of us still trying to do this on the cheap and for the fun of it vs just buying new machines… so it’s def appreciated. Subbed.
The cool thing imo is that much of the work involved with this mod … I feel… has actually trained me to be more proficient with both tuning my printer to get much more accurate and stronger parts (petg is definitely dialed in for me now)… and also more familiar with eventually converting to klipper and editing firmware in vs code etc for marlin/mriscoc stuff in the meantime, so for me this has been an educational project that dovetails with several other cnc related projects I’m working on, it’s very applicable knowledge. And it probably is not easy for a beginner as I am at all… but well worth it while still not being too unattainably difficult. So not only did I learn the stuff I said above but I further learned more CAD stuff using his nicely done parametric cad file…. I’d encourage anyone to get that going on fusion and play around with it.
I will just say that this probe is FANTASTIC in an enclosure, I kept having issues with my EZABL probe where my Z height would vary quite far from the actual height, needless to say I dumped it and switched to klackender and now I don't ever need to calibrate my Z offset every print, just on occasions when I need to re-level the bed.
@@alejandroperez5368 Ha, that thing has also been going wonky in the enclosure as my enclosure easily exceeds 53C during the heat up process, the thing just goes kaput and the results are unusable for auto bed leveling
Did this mod few days ago, all from parts I already had at home. Had to modify holes a bit so I can use 5mm magnets but in the end all works super accurately and reliably, I expected more trouble tbh
I really like this idea.. Why have the probe attached when your not using it and to have the signal going through the magnet is an ingenious idea. I would have thought the magnets would interfere with the small electric field, but here it is willed into reality. This should be the way forward..
The probe itself is great after fixing some basic printability issues with the CAD. However the klipper macros are not great. They aren’t using standardized macro naming that would allow for the functions to work properly in UI’s etc. Its easily fixed if you know what you’re doing though. I really think a good solution to this is making it work with the klicky probe macros instead. They are so well written and do work with the KlackEnder.
I ordered a Cheep klicky probe kit from alliexpress and im using it to make the klack ender with some other parts i have laying around. my $6 3d touch is now being used to make its replacment(the probe has been installed for 6 hours)
I was debating on doing this since I'm getting ready to do the belted Z mod. Just waiting on the rest of the screws and the stepper cable. I have a Ender 3 Pro running Klipper with a CR Touch so I was up in the air about the Klacky Probe.
@Modbot about the copy and paste of the Z offset this is not really needed. The only thing needed to be done is manually comment the Z offset on the probe section of the klackender.cfg and manually add the Z offset in the autogenerated values section of the printer.cfg file. After this the SAVE_CONFIG command will work as usual. 😁
This is exactly what I needed to find for Z probe for the Ender 3 I just acquired. I am curious about one thing - you mention removing the existing Z Endstop unless you're going to use the klipper auto z offset plugin. Do you have any information on that?
Awesome video! I've wanted to do this since I saw a Voron with it. I'll definitely do some research and see if I can get it to work with my Mutant v2. I'm hoping to mount something to the main carriage so I don't need to have a probe on every mobile plate.
Can you make a before and after video detailing the kevinakasam belted z vs the stock leadscrew's impact on the surface finish? I've been dealing with ugly layers from my e3v2 z axis binding for too long and it seems like the z belt mod would do the trick.
My only trouble was breaking retainer 2 times until I adjusted gcode to fit my machine, took some sleep and adjusted it perfectly. Now it docks and undocks everytime perfectly, this thing is super reliable and precise once you set it up correctly
Thanks for a video that shows an improvement on a printer and not another cheap Chinese clone. Too many of them on the 3D channels we need more interesting unique information like this
There will still be some videos on low cost Chinese printers but I have been saying no much more often than yes. I got the Sovol SV06 Plus in because I see alot of value there as well as another I have been testing. That being said I absolutely understand what you are saying and certainly dont want to make that the focus. Too many other cool things :)
@@ModBotArmy Thanks for the reply. I guess what I was saying as a long term user of 3D printers, that I want more interesting content than the latest cheap I3 clone. You do a lot of interesting content.
So I dont have first experience with the Tap. However, I dont believe it has been implemented into any other toolheads than the Stealthburner so far and it is not compatible with nearly as many printers. I know someone who has had good results with a reinforced bed frame with dual linear rails but for standard pcb beds from what I am seeing it isnt recommended.
I love this! I want to put it on my Sovol SV02 but I have a purge bucket attachment in the same location as the probe dock. If the Klicky doubles as the z-endstop then maybe there are some options...gotta think this through...
Great video i struggled 5 hrs to do this and still cant figure out why the printer starts like at 10mm height from bed whats the solution i tried all possible z coordinates to be changed no solution
That's what I thought, watched it though, turns out it works on marlin too. May be worth a watch tbh, I'm debating scrapping an old mouse for switches and screws at this point lol
When you get Superglue on your skin, nail polish remover will work in just a few painless seconds to dissolve it. I have an Ender 5 Plus with an Exoslide, MicroSwiss DD, which I believe is the same setup as what you have, and I am getting ready to install a BTT SKR Pro v1.2. I will not be using Marlin or RepRap, will this work with my hardware and firmware setup???
Just picked up a Ender 3 Pro as the Ender 2 Pro just wasn’t cutting it. I’m thinking of doing the belted Z mod, I see you went with the single belted Z do you regret not going with the dual belted Z? Thanks!
Usually I can understand you but this is total geek. But I am 78 yo. I can print anything on my Ender 3 pro. I wouldn't be able to do anything without youtube videos. Just slow down a bit for brain dead people like me if you please. You have a very good channel.
This is a pretty technical mod. The documentation I linked should give you much of the details you want. If you decide to move forward with the mod after this should help with giving an additional visual/reference point :)
Great install video, but another video showing the issues users face upgrading another from another probe with an existing printer.cfg with some addons already installed. There are a lot of settings that make it a lot more complicated to get working. tilt_screw_adjust, and probe_calibrate macros are especially trouble prone if you are not very klipper knowedgable.
Is there a version of this available for the Ender 5 with the Micro Swiss NG DD extruder/hotend? Also, what benefits does Klicky have over a BLTouch? Just curious which would be more accurate.
Should be identical since it is Klipper. Using the stock board your pin would be different but other than that I cannot think of any other differences that you would have to do.
I have it installed and running, but... I can't get the mesh and z offset to save, and the gantry doesn't pickup or drop off the probe when doing the mesh. I have to place it manually.??
I modded my v2 with almost everything except the z-belted axis.. but I'm having problems tuning it for Klipper and get the most out of it.. I use OrcaSlicer and the default v2 profile is based on marlin.. so... super slow... and the default Klipper printer acceleration numbers are way too high... is there a proper way to get the maximum numbers for the v2 on arcaslicer? i would love to see a "Ender 3v2 marlin to klipper speed tunning guide" that not only show the the calibration parts and the filament tunning but how to properly tune all speeds to get the most out of it
Hi I just set this up and klipper gives me this error Section 'menu __main' is not a valid config section Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "RESTART" command to reload the config and restart the host software. Printer is halted
I have the NG as well and when I see your values for the stepper Y, I put in position_min: 10 and position_endstop: 8, but I get an error because 8 is less than the minimum of 10. Should those values be flipped?
would this work with ender 3 pro? it's the base machine and I'm using Cura software, no marlin, no Klipper. I want to add this to my printer but not sure how. I was wondering if you could help me on this?
The only thing left Ender on mine is most of the frame lol Many would be surprised how much probes like the BL Touch vary, they really are just good enough but not always repeatable. Mines now a DD-IDEX so double headaches when I change nozzles etc. Finally had enough and wrote a pyhon script that talks to moonraker, uses a cheap FSR (force sensing resistor) for getting first layer height for both hotends, works great and all automateds. Cost was about $10 to make it. I leave probe z_offset at 1.0 and set the nozzle offsets in my tool change macro using z_adjust. Still need a klicky to probe and home though. Hard to beat a simple good quality switch.
I would have loved to see him go through the leveling process post install. Im still a little unsure about what I would gain with this over a CR Touch? The obvious is no longer having to look for probe mounts, but what are other advantages? is the switch that much more accurate than a Probe?
What is the best way to figure out z-offset with this setup? I used the PROBE_CALIBRATE with the bl touch but that doesn't seem to apply anymore. I was thinking a macro along the lines of: [gcode_macro Z_Offset] G28 X G28 Y PROBE_OUT G1 X114 Y103 F6000 #my offsets G28 Z PROBE_IN G1 X114 Y103 F6000 #my offsets
I may consider it. I had not planned on doing it on this printer but I am definitely interested in exploring it further even if it is on a different printer.
I would love to see this on a delta something like a Flsun Super Racer its always a pain when leveling and when using klipper its pure hell to get a decent bed level with the stock probe I dont thing its klipper but something in either the stock probe or firmware is a bug any thoughts i would really like to do this for a Super Racer.
I'm just wondering why the probe isn't park at the bottom (so on the stopper). That would avoid picking it up by accident when printing over the entire bed. Now if you get a bit higher up and move the head all the way to the right, you could be accidentally pick up the probe. If it would be parked at the bottom, you only need to take care not to move up quite a bit before moving to the left again, something you normally won't do while printing ...
If you dont have it on the x axis extrusion you will need an additional z endstop. With it on the x axis it knows it can go to the right until it grabs it. If it is on the bottom it could crash into the bed before it grabs it. I have the setup you are describing on my Switchwire and I also have a z min switch that it needs to reach first to let it know it has homed before it goes to find the probe. It is a messier setup. I am hoping to convert it to an x axis setup as well. During normal printing it shouldnt be an issue.
@@ModBotArmy No you don't. Since the contact is normally-closed, Klipper can just move up 5mm, home x & y, move to the x coordinate to pick up the probe, then move down and detect while moving down when the probe attaches to the magnets (as then the circuit gets closed). It can then move up to keep it attached and measure Z in the center using the probe
@@MisterkeTube This capability would have to be in the firmware. I’m not sure what the advantage is, as the position on the Y-axis doesn’t appear to encroach on the build volume. KIS always applies.
@@boggisthecat No need to have that in firmware if you are running Klipper as you can implement that in macros. There isn't much difference between this moving down and detecting pickup of the probe and the initial z-home with a probe. Both will not know z at the start of the move and move down until a condition triggers. Implementation in the firmware itself would be even easier in both Klippper and Marlin. Anyway, on this printer you might have sufficient room off the side to not pickup the probe by accident when moving to the side of the bed, but that won't be feasible on every bedslinger. Having the probe in a basket at the bottom would only have you accidentally attract it on the bottom layers, but then when your head moves away again side-ways (as that is the normal movement when printing), the probe would detach again as it isn't lifted out of the basket. So for printers without extra room in x direction, this would still allow use of a klicky probe. Also, not having to remove a screw of one of the right v-wheels to mount the holder and only having to attach a single basket on the v-slots at the bottom, seems like KISS to me.
Grrrrrr I just sat here for 2 hours just to get this error: Klipper reports: ERROR Section 'menu __main __klackender' is not a valid config section Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "RESTART" command to reload the config and restart the host software. Printer is halted Cannot figure this out! I guess it is back to the old school way
It's so funny that this has now become a 'thing' when several years prior this was one of those 'meh' methods of bed leveling because microswitches have such low precision for activation. Same for inductive; used to be poo-poo'd on but plenty of people use them now. Still staying with the good ol' BLTouch that never lets me down!
hey there... ive followed step by step you tutorial but now when i try to home, it shows "Move out of range: 245.000 -8.000 10.000 [0.000]" on all axis... any idea what did i make wrong please??
I prefer it over either. To me the little probe leg is a fail point and parts for this are like $5 versus 30-40 for those. Not that the others are a bad option if you already have them I just have had such good results with these its hard for me to justify going a different route.
@@ModBotArmy Thank you for your reply! I like that this probe works with both Marlin and Klipper. It's also great news that it's less expensive than the BL-Touch and CR-Touch. Having more options as a maker is good. I currently use a CR-Touch and it works fine. I might consider this mod in the future. Thanks!
Ran a probe accuracy tests on both the BL and the Klack. I was surprised how much more accurate & repeatable the Klack is. The CR came in much more inaccurate in my tests than the BL
You weren't clear enough at the beginning of the video on the fact you NO LONGER require a z-endstop with this new version of the mod. In his first release you still needed a z-endstop.
Double trouble! haha. I will be playing around a bit more with some dual extrusion this year. Maybe one day I will even look into building the Tridex :)
Great video! Glad you like the Klack and thanks for the positive feedback :)
Is it compatible with marlin?
@@brandoneich2412Yes
error option points not valid in section homing_override?
@@brandoneich2412 I use it with Marlin. Configuration is a little more involved, but it works.
You're a damn Saint @KevinAkaSam all of your mods are user friendly as it gets and fun to build, and that website of yours is stupid proof.
Having struggled with my own designs for a KlickyNG-inspired probe for my 2 bed slingers, I am a little irritated with the KlackEnder dock's elegant simplicity. Amazing work.
This is another ingenious design KevinAKAsam. And another fantastic instructional video by ModBot. Thank you for this and all for all you do to help all of us.
Major hats off to KevinAKASam for this. Hopefully this will helps give others another point of reference that are interested in adding this.
And Thank You For Your Fake, Kiss Ass Comment.
@@coreyhutton478 who exactly are you talking to and why in the world are you so angry about someone that appreciates these modifications and tutorials? Sounds like you need a nappy nap.
@@ModBotArmy tbh you are becoming a pretty damn good resource for those of us who just need a little more visual learning and handholding to go with all the relevant reading on these relatively current 3d printing topics…(at least for those of us still trying to do this on the cheap and for the fun of it vs just buying new machines… so it’s def appreciated. Subbed.
The cool thing imo is that much of the work involved with this mod … I feel… has actually trained me to be more proficient with both tuning my printer to get much more accurate and stronger parts (petg is definitely dialed in for me now)… and also more familiar with eventually converting to klipper and editing firmware in vs code etc for marlin/mriscoc stuff in the meantime, so for me this has been an educational project that dovetails with several other cnc related projects I’m working on, it’s very applicable knowledge. And it probably is not easy for a beginner as I am at all… but well worth it while still not being too unattainably difficult. So not only did I learn the stuff I said above but I further learned more CAD stuff using his nicely done parametric cad file…. I’d encourage anyone to get that going on fusion and play around with it.
I will just say that this probe is FANTASTIC in an enclosure, I kept having issues with my EZABL probe where my Z height would vary quite far from the actual height, needless to say I dumped it and switched to klackender and now I don't ever need to calibrate my Z offset every print, just on occasions when I need to re-level the bed.
You realize the BLTouch was also a possibility in that case?
@@alejandroperez5368 Ha, that thing has also been going wonky in the enclosure as my enclosure easily exceeds 53C during the heat up process, the thing just goes kaput and the results are unusable for auto bed leveling
Precise, repeatable, inexpensive and versatile = ticks all the right boxes I will definitely build this probe!!!
A small comparison to different bed leveling solutions would have been interesting
th-cam.com/video/2o8woJfTEVc/w-d-xo.html&feature=shares
Agreed
Great instructional video. Looks like another fun project. Thanks to you and KevinAKASam for such complete instructions.
What a great video! Kudos to guys like you who is out there helping the community. A true community video.
Whew! I think I got it, thanks to you! Works on the original CR-10s like a charm. Finally... bed levelling... now I'm all fancy!
HAHAHAHAHA You did it! Angry Eyes jumping, that was my first idea as i saw it. Nice! Stay safe and greatings to all!!!
Been waiting for this video since I saw the short, love to see it
It has been on my list for a while. Glad I finally got a chance to visit it. Its sweet.
I was about to check if the video is up and I was surprised! GJ
I love @KevinAkaSam's mods! I'm running his Klackender and Belted Z-Axis mods and both are awesome and fun to do!
Did this mod few days ago, all from parts I already had at home. Had to modify holes a bit so I can use 5mm magnets but in the end all works super accurately and reliably, I expected more trouble tbh
I really like this idea.. Why have the probe attached when your not using it and to have the signal going through the magnet is an ingenious idea. I would have thought the magnets would interfere with the small electric field, but here it is willed into reality.
This should be the way forward..
Thanks for the video. It took me a while to tweak the config files but I got it working on my CR-10 V1. Never looking at a bltouch again ;)
KevinakaSams mods are S-Tier.
I like this. When I start doing my own Marlin compile I might try this.
Good stuff! All of your videos are well done. Also, you dont annoy me, trust me that means a lot coming from me! Keep it up.
The probe itself is great after fixing some basic printability issues with the CAD. However the klipper macros are not great. They aren’t using standardized macro naming that would allow for the functions to work properly in UI’s etc. Its easily fixed if you know what you’re doing though. I really think a good solution to this is making it work with the klicky probe macros instead. They are so well written and do work with the KlackEnder.
I ordered a Cheep klicky probe kit from alliexpress and im using it to make the klack ender with some other parts i have laying around. my $6 3d touch is now being used to make its replacment(the probe has been installed for 6 hours)
I did both mods. Best thing I did for my Aquila!
Impressive design!
Great walk-through of the process:-)
Thanks for sharing your expirence with all of us 👍 😀
Thank you Asger :)
I was debating on doing this since I'm getting ready to do the belted Z mod. Just waiting on the rest of the screws and the stepper cable. I have a Ender 3 Pro running Klipper with a CR Touch so I was up in the air about the Klacky Probe.
You can also salvage the switch from old computer mice you have laying around.
I plan to use Kailh GM 8.0 pro gamer switches with 24k gold contact and 80 million click rating
That's very cool! I think I'm going to add something like this to my selfbuild 3D printer instead of using a BL touch
I was planning on using a pinda probe on my CR-10S project printer, after watching this video I have changed my mind.
@Modbot about the copy and paste of the Z offset this is not really needed.
The only thing needed to be done is manually comment the Z offset on the probe section of the klackender.cfg and manually add the Z offset in the autogenerated values section of the printer.cfg file.
After this the SAVE_CONFIG command will work as usual. 😁
How is z offset obtained for this setup? Do I have to run a print and adjust until I have it?
This is exactly what I needed to find for Z probe for the Ender 3 I just acquired. I am curious about one thing - you mention removing the existing Z Endstop unless you're going to use the klipper auto z offset plugin. Do you have any information on that?
Awesome video! I've wanted to do this since I saw a Voron with it. I'll definitely do some research and see if I can get it to work with my Mutant v2. I'm hoping to mount something to the main carriage so I don't need to have a probe on every mobile plate.
Can you make a before and after video detailing the kevinakasam belted z vs the stock leadscrew's impact on the surface finish? I've been dealing with ugly layers from my e3v2 z axis binding for too long and it seems like the z belt mod would do the trick.
is it possible to wire the klicky on the 5pin bltouch slot for the 4.2.2 board? so i can use the z endstop pin as a Sxbolt for auto z calibration
Way cool! I love the touch probe on my CR6 but the mounting is flimsy. I will definitely check this out
Had lot of trouble with it. Will give it another go
My only trouble was breaking retainer 2 times until I adjusted gcode to fit my machine, took some sleep and adjusted it perfectly. Now it docks and undocks everytime perfectly, this thing is super reliable and precise once you set it up correctly
I just recently completed the belted Z mod on my Ender 3 Max and this is next!
Thanks for a video that shows an improvement on a printer and not another cheap Chinese clone. Too many of them on the 3D channels we need more interesting unique information like this
There will still be some videos on low cost Chinese printers but I have been saying no much more often than yes. I got the Sovol SV06 Plus in because I see alot of value there as well as another I have been testing. That being said I absolutely understand what you are saying and certainly dont want to make that the focus. Too many other cool things :)
@@ModBotArmy Thanks for the reply. I guess what I was saying as a long term user of 3D printers, that I want more interesting content than the latest cheap I3 clone. You do a lot of interesting content.
Awesome video man :-) how do you feel this compares to the tap tap probe?
So I dont have first experience with the Tap. However, I dont believe it has been implemented into any other toolheads than the Stealthburner so far and it is not compatible with nearly as many printers. I know someone who has had good results with a reinforced bed frame with dual linear rails but for standard pcb beds from what I am seeing it isnt recommended.
Hot damn thanks dude
Do I need this even though I have a CR Touch?
Which is more accurate? CRT or Klacker?
what program are you using to edit the firmware? im trying to use PlatformIO but i am not coming any further than opening the program.
I love this! I want to put it on my Sovol SV02 but I have a purge bucket attachment in the same location as the probe dock. If the Klicky doubles as the z-endstop then maybe there are some options...gotta think this through...
Acetone like nail polish remover will easily remove superglue from your skin
whan i create the mesh it wants to prit where it measured the mesh and not the nozzle and i dont know where i can trim it to the nozzle
Great video i struggled 5 hrs to do this and still cant figure out why the printer starts like at 10mm height from bed whats the solution i tried all possible z coordinates to be changed no solution
Same. I can't figure out how to set the z offset precisely.
did you find a way? @nishantlaxmikant5899 @kyleshearer1270
What is the purple filament use for your frame !? Is good looking ! Very cool mod thank you for sharing
Nope, as soon as you mentioned Klipper I was out, not wasting a second longer getting that to work. Shame, it looks really good.
That's what I thought, watched it though, turns out it works on marlin too. May be worth a watch tbh, I'm debating scrapping an old mouse for switches and screws at this point lol
When you get Superglue on your skin, nail polish remover will work in just a few painless seconds to dissolve it. I have an Ender 5 Plus with an Exoslide, MicroSwiss DD, which I believe is the same setup as what you have, and I am getting ready to install a BTT SKR Pro v1.2. I will not be using Marlin or RepRap, will this work with my hardware and firmware setup???
Lol I was just on the sight looking at this and I put on you tube and bang your already on it. Thanks for the great video
Woohoo! Perfect timing :).
Just picked up a Ender 3 Pro as the Ender 2 Pro just wasn’t cutting it. I’m thinking of doing the belted Z mod, I see you went with the single belted Z do you regret not going with the dual belted Z? Thanks!
Usually I can understand you but this is total geek. But I am 78 yo. I can print anything on my Ender 3 pro. I wouldn't be able to do anything without youtube videos. Just slow down a bit for brain dead people like me if you please. You have a very good channel.
This is a pretty technical mod. The documentation I linked should give you much of the details you want. If you decide to move forward with the mod after this should help with giving an additional visual/reference point :)
Great install video, but another video showing the issues users face upgrading another from another probe with an existing printer.cfg with some addons already installed. There are a lot of settings that make it a lot more complicated to get working. tilt_screw_adjust, and probe_calibrate macros are especially trouble prone if you are not very klipper knowedgable.
I myself run into troubles upgrading from a BLTouch: duplicate chip name ´probe’. I would love to see a video addressing this.
Is there a version of this available for the Ender 5 with the Micro Swiss NG DD extruder/hotend?
Also, what benefits does Klicky have over a BLTouch? Just curious which would be more accurate.
Great video! Is the setup generally the same for a Ender 3 Pro with the Sonic Pad?
Should be identical since it is Klipper. Using the stock board your pin would be different but other than that I cannot think of any other differences that you would have to do.
@@ModBotArmy Great. Thanks.
I have it installed and running, but... I can't get the mesh and z offset to save, and the gantry doesn't pickup or drop off the probe when doing the mesh. I have to place it manually.??
wonder what kind of Standard deviations it has when you dock and reload it.
Another great video and you caught all the missteps I made yesterday. 😀
I modded my v2 with almost everything except the z-belted axis.. but I'm having problems tuning it for Klipper and get the most out of it.. I use OrcaSlicer and the default v2 profile is based on marlin.. so... super slow... and the default Klipper printer acceleration numbers are way too high... is there a proper way to get the maximum numbers for the v2 on arcaslicer? i would love to see a "Ender 3v2 marlin to klipper speed tunning guide" that not only show the the calibration parts and the filament tunning but how to properly tune all speeds to get the most out of it
What makes the klicky setup better than a bl-touch, other than the price?
Digging the haircut 👍
Hi I just set this up and klipper gives me this error
Section 'menu __main' is not a valid config section
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "RESTART"
command to reload the config and restart the host software.
Printer is halted
I have the NG as well and when I see your values for the stepper Y, I put in position_min: 10 and position_endstop: 8, but I get an error because 8 is less than the minimum of 10. Should those values be flipped?
How is that better than BL/3D/CR Touch and why we should use it?
would this work with ender 3 pro? it's the base machine and I'm using Cura software, no marlin, no Klipper. I want to add this to my printer but not sure how. I was wondering if you could help me on this?
I noticed you still have your stock V2 screen installed with the E3EZ board. Does it do anything? Can you still use it?
The only thing left Ender on mine is most of the frame lol Many would be surprised how much probes like the BL Touch vary, they really are just good enough but not always repeatable.
Mines now a DD-IDEX so double headaches when I change nozzles etc. Finally had enough and wrote a pyhon script that talks to moonraker, uses a cheap FSR (force sensing resistor) for getting first layer height for both hotends, works great and all automateds. Cost was about $10 to make it. I leave probe z_offset at 1.0 and set the nozzle offsets in my tool change macro using z_adjust. Still need a klicky to probe and home though. Hard to beat a simple good quality switch.
could you share that? Might try to do that for my SV04
muy bueno_ cual se utiliza para voron??
just so u know, marlin also supports it and with basically any tft automatically creates a g29 macro
I would have loved to see him go through the leveling process post install. Im still a little unsure about what I would gain with this over a CR Touch? The obvious is no longer having to look for probe mounts, but what are other advantages? is the switch that much more accurate than a Probe?
Same here
yes it is much more accurate and it's cheeper much cheeper
how would you set it up to probe for a 400mm bed?
What is the best way to figure out z-offset with this setup? I used the PROBE_CALIBRATE with the bl touch but that doesn't seem to apply anymore.
I was thinking a macro along the lines of:
[gcode_macro Z_Offset]
G28 X
G28 Y
PROBE_OUT
G1 X114 Y103 F6000 #my offsets
G28 Z
PROBE_IN
G1 X114 Y103 F6000 #my offsets
Is this compatile with Creality CR-10 V2 and Marlin 2 ? I want to replace the BL Touch with the KlackEnder
Do you know if this probe fits to the sprite extruder kit? Thanks for sharing this!!
Everything fits without mods. I just have conflicts with previous bltouch install
looks greate i have thingivers fan duck mod (Satsana Duct for Ender 3 V2) is there way to use ?
~Campfire chat! I like the idea but I have to use Marlin 😞for my SKR mini 3 v3 bla bla.
I'm currently running BLTouch, is this an upgrade?
Can you recommend any forum for 3d printing/laser?
Does it works with kamp adaptive mesh?
Hello, nice video and explanation. Can you please point me to the files of the switchwire version of this probe? thank you!
Would love you to expand on this with the calibrate z add on
I may consider it. I had not planned on doing it on this printer but I am definitely interested in exploring it further even if it is on a different printer.
Can anyone help, is this better than CR touch?? I have an ender 3 neo V1
Love how you gush over "having more control over your product", but you still gush over Bambu's printers.. shilllllllll
I would love to see this on a delta something like a Flsun Super Racer its always a pain when leveling and when using klipper its pure hell to get a decent bed level with the stock probe I dont thing its klipper but something in either the stock probe or firmware is a bug any thoughts i would really like to do this for a Super Racer.
I'm just wondering why the probe isn't park at the bottom (so on the stopper). That would avoid picking it up by accident when printing over the entire bed. Now if you get a bit higher up and move the head all the way to the right, you could be accidentally pick up the probe. If it would be parked at the bottom, you only need to take care not to move up quite a bit before moving to the left again, something you normally won't do while printing ...
If you dont have it on the x axis extrusion you will need an additional z endstop. With it on the x axis it knows it can go to the right until it grabs it. If it is on the bottom it could crash into the bed before it grabs it. I have the setup you are describing on my Switchwire and I also have a z min switch that it needs to reach first to let it know it has homed before it goes to find the probe. It is a messier setup. I am hoping to convert it to an x axis setup as well. During normal printing it shouldnt be an issue.
@@ModBotArmy No you don't. Since the contact is normally-closed, Klipper can just move up 5mm, home x & y, move to the x coordinate to pick up the probe, then move down and detect while moving down when the probe attaches to the magnets (as then the circuit gets closed). It can then move up to keep it attached and measure Z in the center using the probe
@@MisterkeTube This capability would have to be in the firmware. I’m not sure what the advantage is, as the position on the Y-axis doesn’t appear to encroach on the build volume. KIS always applies.
@@boggisthecat No need to have that in firmware if you are running Klipper as you can implement that in macros. There isn't much difference between this moving down and detecting pickup of the probe and the initial z-home with a probe. Both will not know z at the start of the move and move down until a condition triggers. Implementation in the firmware itself would be even easier in both Klippper and Marlin. Anyway, on this printer you might have sufficient room off the side to not pickup the probe by accident when moving to the side of the bed, but that won't be feasible on every bedslinger. Having the probe in a basket at the bottom would only have you accidentally attract it on the bottom layers, but then when your head moves away again side-ways (as that is the normal movement when printing), the probe would detach again as it isn't lifted out of the basket. So for printers without extra room in x direction, this would still allow use of a klicky probe.
Also, not having to remove a screw of one of the right v-wheels to mount the holder and only having to attach a single basket on the v-slots at the bottom, seems like KISS to me.
@@MisterkeTube No advantage for this printer. Lot’s of unnecessary work and a requirement to run Klipper?
That’s the opposite of KIS.
Were can i find that One youre using on your switchwire
Ugh, cables dragging across the print bed...
Grrrrrr
I just sat here for 2 hours just to get this error:
Klipper reports: ERROR
Section 'menu __main __klackender' is not a valid config section
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "RESTART"
command to reload the config and restart the host software.
Printer is halted
Cannot figure this out! I guess it is back to the old school way
It's so funny that this has now become a 'thing' when several years prior this was one of those 'meh' methods of bed leveling because microswitches have such low precision for activation. Same for inductive; used to be poo-poo'd on but plenty of people use them now. Still staying with the good ol' BLTouch that never lets me down!
hey there... ive followed step by step you tutorial but now when i try to home, it shows "Move out of range: 245.000 -8.000 10.000 [0.000]" on all axis... any idea what did i make wrong please??
did you find a solution? I'm having the same error
Make a change on x,y,z min/max at printer.cfg
Hello, can it be done on an ender 6?
So barbaric cutting off legs 😆
is this possible using the zstop on ender 3?
Do u have a video of ng install on v2
Would this work on the ender 3 s1 pro?
Hi dude does this support the 1.1.4 main board for ender 3 V1?
Board type shouldn’t matter. It takes the place of your z limit switch.
are there files for the sprite pro extruder?
Does it perform better than the BL-Touch or CR-Touch?
I prefer it over either. To me the little probe leg is a fail point and parts for this are like $5 versus 30-40 for those. Not that the others are a bad option if you already have them I just have had such good results with these its hard for me to justify going a different route.
@@ModBotArmy Thank you for your reply!
I like that this probe works with both Marlin and Klipper. It's also great news that it's less expensive than the BL-Touch and CR-Touch. Having more options as a maker is good.
I currently use a CR-Touch and it works fine. I might consider this mod in the future. Thanks!
Ran a probe accuracy tests on both the BL and the Klack. I was surprised how much more accurate & repeatable the Klack is. The CR came in much more inaccurate in my tests than the BL
I bet those parts would look a lot better in resin printed extra tough material.
So why not just use bltouch?
Klicky is cheaper
You weren't clear enough at the beginning of the video on the fact you NO LONGER require a z-endstop with this new version of the mod. In his first release you still needed a z-endstop.
Two Heads are better than one add another hot end unit:)
Double trouble! haha. I will be playing around a bit more with some dual extrusion this year. Maybe one day I will even look into building the Tridex :)