It's definitely the Sabvoton. There's nothing else that can cause an intermittent problem. As you rightly said, everything else either works or it doesn't. If your motor hall sensors were wrongly reassembled, it would constantly start 'cogging' and it can't be the windings because it works. If the BMS was faulty, it would switch off and stay off. If the cells were bad, the BMS would switch off and stay off (p;us which, you don't have significant voltage drop in any cells). I'm pretty certain that you have a faulty hall sensor on the current side of things. If all else fails, take the Sabvoton apart and check the soldering or replace the hall sensors. If you can't get the hall sensors, you could semi-bypass them by taking a wire the same gauge and bridging the input to output. The Sabvoton will only sense half the current but it might just fix it. There is also a chance that the caps inside the Sabvoton are drying out or venting (I've known that before) but that would more likely give a permanent fault. Good luck mate, it's the intermittent problems which are the worst!
Hi I might be miles off but I'll put my 2 pence worth in anyway. Am I right in thinking your running a 72v controller with a 54v battery??? Also I have a spare sabvoton controller which depending on geography you could try for test purposes. Let us know how you get on 👍
The sabvotons are not just 72V, they work from 36 up to either 72V or 96V depending on the model you have, mine runs on 60V and quite happily drops everything around it at robots from a stand still, I'm even able to hit 90kmh at 60V with 4" x 26" tires...... This is a controller issue.
That's been sorted, was a loose connection block. I had a time where I would take the cells out, tighten a loose block, put it back and then a different cell would start dropping!🤦♂️ Not the cells themselves though, just loose connections
After 3kw you should put a pre charge circuit on it . And a lot of controllers have different settings for power did you look to see if you are defaulting to a low setting?
Full throttle should be putting you on your ass m8 I.e flipping the bike over lol. Send the controller back for repair or replacement. That will cost you postage to China and the postage back to you.
Hi buddy great informative video, i have a problem ive just received my stealth 8000w, 72v, 40amp bike however i went to take it for its first ride got power for 5seconds and then i cut out an i havent had any power since. I connected the bluetooth usb and the app says i have a unrecognised fault….any idea what this could be?? Did the hall test an the wheel spins abit then stops…spins abit then stops but never completes the test. If anyone could help id be massively grateful feel really disappointed atm
friend and a problem that I am also experiencing on sabvoton 150 and 200 bought 7 controllers 5 years this problem and I can not solve, I think it is some firmware bug in the latest versions and the sellers deny these problems!
I believe my 80a Savoton is fried…if I put a meter to the battery it reads 83 volts’ both charge and discharge ports….if I turn the bike on I get red and green light flashes….if I put the meter to the controller….and power the bike on it shows 0% if I turn it on the voltage drops down to 57 volts, if I go into the program it gives my a lack voltage error code and show 60volts. It started when I recharged the battery…the battery was at 70% when it finished charging I turn it on and heard a pop pop pop sound….then it quit…when I throttled it it would slightly move and show the error code….I reset the system and did a hall test at 10 output the wheel barely moved but the test passed….if I tried it on 20out put the system would turn off and I would have to power it up again…. I thought it was the battery but my meter tells me it’s not.
Mine shows the battery at 69.9 volts…it used to be 84v I went into the controller and programmed it to use 64 volts….now I get the error code speed controller protect….and it doesn’t move…it’s annoying because I don’t know if it’s the battery or speed controller….I’m hoping it’s the speed controller….but I got a bad feeling it’s a dead cell….the battery won’t charge above 71v and when it’s on a higher voltage the wheel will spin a tiny bit then stops. It’s not the wheel because it tested ok, and I have 2 plugs incase one is damaged
I think it’s you’re controller…..if you test your battery and it’s putting out the right amount of volts it’s not the battery….if you test the black and red wire’ when the bike is off’ and it shows the correct amps….it’s not the battery….if you turn the bike on and the voltage drops on the volt meter….and gives a controller protection code….then it’s most likely the controller….if you go inside the computer and it’s giving a lack voltage code it’s probably definitely the speed controller. If you plug the battery to the controller and you hear a pop it’s not the battery…it’s a fried speed controller. If it’s flashing green or red and saying speed controller protection….I’d bet my money it’s the speed controller.
My battery Lasted a day….soon as I turned it on it started pooping…and my battery percentage reads either 0 or %29 I think my battery died for some weird reason….I’m hoping it’s my speed controller….because its a lot cheaper to replace.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel The big problem with aluminum is that the thermal expansion loosens the contact and you get a fire. Check tighten aluminum connections and if any show signs of getting loose then you have a problem. In household wiring aluminum can be used only with specially designed connections that don't work loose with the thermal expansion.
Just as a reference for you, my ebike when I had it on 20inch wheels running 72v about 80-100amps I got a 3 sec 0-30 total weight is about 110kg with me the battery and the bike. Also with bad launch because it was a Chinese controller and was hard to control that initial hit of torque
one last thing have you tested the hall sensor inside the throttle it maybe just faulty or loose inside the throttle this could lead to inconsistencies and if it's not the motor and not the throttle have a look inside the sabaton for loose connections
low volatege is mean low motor speed + low power not good you should change your battery and controller I use 134V battery and 200a controller + qs 205 5t and I can up to speed over 120km/h 0-100km/h 3.2 sec
Bloody hell that 0-100 time!! 😲 I've already built the 60v battery and the motor is only rated for 48v anyway but I'll bear those specs in mind for a future build...😁
@@EverythingEbikeChannel I'd steer away from lipos the lion will be less puff hazard under huge loads. I soldered direct recently my phase wire connections and huge improvements. 45A sabvoton 26" wheels 42mph. LOL!
I’m west London based and have a sabvoton 72150 lying about if your want to try another controller for troubleshooting. It must be a faulty controller. I’m currently trying out a fardriver controller to see how that performs
Hey, I'm building a bike with the same frame. I'm about to put on a new rim from the 26in on the rear hub motor. What size rim and spokes did you use for the rear motor?
It's called a 85x18 rim which I think means can take an 85mm wide tyre and 18 inches in diameter - weird mix of metric and imperial! The exact seller doesn't sell them on ebay but have a look around and I'm sure someone will. The spokes were 113mm long
heya with out the display screen mthe sabvoton will always default to level 1 pas and as the throttle is also linked to the pas level you will only get assist level 1,the tft 750 and ukc1 displays have the 4 button switch which allowed the adjustment each time started the bike
i wondered how to adjust with out the display ,now im thinking this very much looks like the result,how do you normally adjust your assit level on the fly,without the 4 button display switch
I'm sorry to say, but after all the tweaking and trying, the only thing I can think of is that this has to be a controller error. there is just no other explanation.
Just an idea: Could it possibly be the location of your temperature sensors? The BMS will automatically reduce your output current depending on its setting.
yeah looks like its defaulting to level 1 each time its turned on ,mine does that ,then i have to push up assist button goes like 1 to 5 ,level one gives like 20 -30 % of power
Which part are you talking about? I mentioned that I had a weak connection and that was why 1 cell looked lower. You can see in my reply to @Dragunjoshi
i hope you get it done soon .. i got all this to go though yet .. but im going the slow rout. ie max speed 25mph .. im looking for dissent's. hopefully to go 150 miles. ?? chin up .. you will get there
It's too bad you still have problems on the controller app they're setting for acceleration and deceleration in milliseconds make sure they're set on the lowest it'll let you set it turn up flux weakening to the maximum level it'll let you I have it unlocked controller lets me use 80 amps with the savoton 150 check the temperature settings on the amp for the mosfets it could be rolling back amps to I had another controller if I used flux weakening and went past a certain speed if I let off the throttle it would lock up the rear tire that was a savoton 100 by risun it also blew out the 700c screen it might be a 750 screen I forget but it was the screen that came with it it seems like everyone is different keep us updated I'm sure it makes it hard for you to make content when the bikes not working 😭😭
@@MrDeceptacon88 hey Rick how's it going the maximum flux weakening mind will do is 80 amps and I have it set on 80 amps all the time I do have an unlocked savoton 150
I've been through the settings so many times and had multiple people check them so know it's not that. I've heard of the issue with the blown screens, apparently a sensitive controller that can go when using regen.
@@Vortecks Tried it today and yep, no difference. Got someone lending me another controller on Friday so new vid coming out of outcome of that soon hopefully...
It's definitely the Sabvoton. There's nothing else that can cause an intermittent problem. As you rightly said, everything else either works or it doesn't.
If your motor hall sensors were wrongly reassembled, it would constantly start 'cogging' and it can't be the windings because it works. If the BMS was faulty, it would switch off and stay off. If the cells were bad, the BMS would switch off and stay off (p;us which, you don't have significant voltage drop in any cells).
I'm pretty certain that you have a faulty hall sensor on the current side of things. If all else fails, take the Sabvoton apart and check the soldering or replace the hall sensors. If you can't get the hall sensors, you could semi-bypass them by taking a wire the same gauge and bridging the input to output. The Sabvoton will only sense half the current but it might just fix it. There is also a chance that the caps inside the Sabvoton are drying out or venting (I've known that before) but that would more likely give a permanent fault.
Good luck mate, it's the intermittent problems which are the worst!
Hi I might be miles off but I'll put my 2 pence worth in anyway. Am I right in thinking your running a 72v controller with a 54v battery??? Also I have a spare sabvoton controller which depending on geography you could try for test purposes. Let us know how you get on 👍
I agree whit you
The sabvotons are not just 72V, they work from 36 up to either 72V or 96V depending on the model you have, mine runs on 60V and quite happily drops everything around it at robots from a stand still, I'm even able to hit 90kmh at 60V with 4" x 26" tires...... This is a controller issue.
@@GapRecordingsNamibia ^^^ What he said 😁
If you email me at cgouldstone45@gmail.com , we can discuss about the controller 👍
at 10:43 min in your Video Cell 14 can it be possible that this Cell have a problem and solw dowen the rest ?
That's been sorted, was a loose connection block. I had a time where I would take the cells out, tighten a loose block, put it back and then a different cell would start dropping!🤦♂️ Not the cells themselves though, just loose connections
After 3kw you should put a pre charge circuit on it . And a lot of controllers have different settings for power did you look to see if you are defaulting to a low setting?
I've tried all that but now it works, I just can't get full power for the first minute or so
hello have you changed the rear rim to put the michelin 90 / 90-18 tire or you have kept the original rim from alien power system
Changed it to an 18" rim.
Full throttle should be putting you on your ass m8 I.e flipping the bike over lol. Send the controller back for repair or replacement. That will cost you postage to China and the postage back to you.
I know your lower voltage will effect overall top speed but at 80ish amps my bike is flying, 150 amps should be really rapid.
Yh I saw your last vid and completely agree!
Try 72v battery, too many problems ... Plug and play , that's the man I am
Where's the fun in that! 😉 I wish I'd gone 72v now but too much effort to change it all over now
@@EverythingEbikeChannel THESE frames and wheels are to heavy for 54v
Hi buddy great informative video, i have a problem ive just received my stealth 8000w, 72v, 40amp bike however i went to take it for its first ride got power for 5seconds and then i cut out an i havent had any power since. I connected the bluetooth usb and the app says i have a unrecognised fault….any idea what this could be?? Did the hall test an the wheel spins abit then stops…spins abit then stops but never completes the test. If anyone could help id be massively grateful feel really disappointed atm
friend and a problem that I am also experiencing on sabvoton 150 and 200 bought 7 controllers 5 years this problem and I can not solve, I think it is some firmware bug in the latest versions and the sellers deny these problems!
I believe my 80a Savoton is fried…if I put a meter to the battery it reads 83 volts’ both charge and discharge ports….if I turn the bike on I get red and green light flashes….if I put the meter to the controller….and power the bike on it shows 0% if I turn it on the voltage drops down to 57 volts, if I go into the program it gives my a lack voltage error code and show 60volts.
It started when I recharged the battery…the battery was at 70% when it finished charging I turn it on and heard a pop pop pop sound….then it quit…when I throttled it it would slightly move and show the error code….I reset the system and did a hall test at 10 output the wheel barely moved but the test passed….if I tried it on 20out put the system would turn off and I would have to power it up again….
I thought it was the battery but my meter tells me it’s not.
Mine shows the battery at 69.9 volts…it used to be 84v I went into the controller and programmed it to use 64 volts….now I get the error code speed controller protect….and it doesn’t move…it’s annoying because I don’t know if it’s the battery or speed controller….I’m hoping it’s the speed controller….but I got a bad feeling it’s a dead cell….the battery won’t charge above 71v and when it’s on a higher voltage the wheel will spin a tiny bit then stops.
It’s not the wheel because it tested ok, and I have 2 plugs incase one is damaged
I think it’s you’re controller…..if you test your battery and it’s putting out the right amount of volts it’s not the battery….if you test the black and red wire’ when the bike is off’ and it shows the correct amps….it’s not the battery….if you turn the bike on and the voltage drops on the volt meter….and gives a controller protection code….then it’s most likely the controller….if you go inside the computer and it’s giving a lack voltage code it’s probably definitely the speed controller.
If you plug the battery to the controller and you hear a pop it’s not the battery…it’s a fried speed controller.
If it’s flashing green or red and saying speed controller protection….I’d bet my money it’s the speed controller.
My battery Lasted a day….soon as I turned it on it started pooping…and my battery percentage reads either 0 or %29 I think my battery died for some weird reason….I’m hoping it’s my speed controller….because its a lot cheaper to replace.
Just a thought - are you sure aluminum is the best material for your bus bars?
Copper would be better, but Al ones were £3.5 each and copper were £8. The difference shouldn't be noticeable even at this kind of power.
@@EverythingEbikeChannel The big problem with aluminum is that the thermal expansion loosens the contact and you get a fire. Check tighten aluminum connections and if any show signs of getting loose then you have a problem. In household wiring aluminum can be used only with specially designed connections that don't work loose with the thermal expansion.
Did u fix it? Just buy a spare controller anyway
Just as a reference for you, my ebike when I had it on 20inch wheels running 72v about 80-100amps I got a 3 sec 0-30 total weight is about 110kg with me the battery and the bike. Also with bad launch because it was a Chinese controller and was hard to control that initial hit of torque
Hmm thanks for this...👍
one last thing have you tested the hall sensor inside the throttle it maybe just faulty or loose inside the throttle this could lead to inconsistencies
and if it's not the motor and not the throttle have a look inside the sabaton for loose connections
I would open up the controller, but would void the warranty so am still waiting to hear back from the seller
low volatege is mean low motor speed + low power not good
you should change your battery and controller
I use 134V battery and 200a controller + qs 205 5t
and I can up to speed over 120km/h 0-100km/h 3.2 sec
Bloody hell that 0-100 time!! 😲 I've already built the 60v battery and the motor is only rated for 48v anyway but I'll bear those specs in mind for a future build...😁
Which model of motor controller are you using for 134V 200A ?
My sabvoton controller doesn't flash green light instead the green light stays on solid. Whats this mean?
That means there are no fault codes and it is powered on, so all good!
@@EverythingEbikeChannel when I log into the app it says lack voltage and the bike won't work. I can't even run the hall test
Keep playing around the setyem or get new controller
100a plus 10p or 15p cell packs. 3A per cell.
That's great for a li-ion pack, but no way I can fit that many parallel pouch cells in here! They are able to do over 100A each apparently...
@@EverythingEbikeChannel I'd steer away from lipos the lion will be less puff hazard under huge loads. I soldered direct recently my phase wire connections and huge improvements. 45A sabvoton 26" wheels 42mph. LOL!
the Volt of cell 14 goes down when you hit the Throtel
I’m west London based and have a sabvoton 72150 lying about if your want to try another controller for troubleshooting. It must be a faulty controller. I’m currently trying out a fardriver controller to see how that performs
Ooh ok, could you send me an email to cgouldstone45@gmail.com?
Hey, I'm building a bike with the same frame. I'm about to put on a new rim from the 26in on the rear hub motor. What size rim and spokes did you use for the rear motor?
It's called a 85x18 rim which I think means can take an 85mm wide tyre and 18 inches in diameter - weird mix of metric and imperial! The exact seller doesn't sell them on ebay but have a look around and I'm sure someone will. The spokes were 113mm long
heya with out the display screen mthe sabvoton will always default to level 1 pas and as the throttle is also linked to the pas level you will only get assist level 1,the tft 750 and ukc1 displays have the 4 button switch which allowed the adjustment each time started the bike
i wondered how to adjust with out the display ,now im thinking this very much looks like the result,how do you normally adjust your assit level on the fly,without the 4 button display switch
I'm sorry to say, but after all the tweaking and trying, the only thing I can think of is that this has to be a controller error. there is just no other explanation.
Yh I think so...
Just an idea: Could it possibly be the location of your temperature sensors? The BMS will automatically reduce your output current depending on its setting.
Nope, nothing's getting hot
yeah looks like its defaulting to level 1 each time its turned on ,mine does that ,then i have to push up assist button goes like 1 to 5 ,level one gives like 20 -30 % of power
Check out the latest video, I think I've cracked it.
Voltage difference of 0.6 volts under 130a load isn't normal. That means one cell is like 50% weaker then the rest.
Which part are you talking about? I mentioned that I had a weak connection and that was why 1 cell looked lower. You can see in my reply to @Dragunjoshi
It's probably the controller, I would have them just send another controller and see what happens then.
I've been trying mate, but am still waiting to hear back after sending the last video clip I showed
Hi I am from india I see your video
i hope you get it done soon .. i got all this to go though yet .. but im going the slow rout. ie max speed 25mph .. im looking for dissent's. hopefully to go 150 miles. ?? chin up .. you will get there
Mine works perfectly!
😁
It's too bad you still have problems on the controller app they're setting for acceleration and deceleration in milliseconds make sure they're set on the lowest it'll let you set it turn up flux weakening to the maximum level it'll let you I have it unlocked controller lets me use 80 amps with the savoton 150 check the temperature settings on the amp for the mosfets it could be rolling back amps to I had another controller if I used flux weakening and went past a certain speed if I let off the throttle it would lock up the rear tire that was a savoton 100 by risun it also blew out the 700c screen it might be a 750 screen I forget but it was the screen that came with it it seems like everyone is different keep us updated I'm sure it makes it hard for you to make content when the bikes not working 😭😭
Hi there..what is the maximum flux weakening you were able to set tour sabvoton at?
@@MrDeceptacon88 hey Rick how's it going the maximum flux weakening mind will do is 80 amps and I have it set on 80 amps all the time I do have an unlocked savoton 150
@@MrDeceptacon88 I also run 130 amps continuous with 80 amps flux weakening my battery is a 12 p 18s lgmj1
@@shawnsebikesandstuff15 thx for the info..i love my sabvotons
I've been through the settings so many times and had multiple people check them so know it's not that. I've heard of the issue with the blown screens, apparently a sensitive controller that can go when using regen.
Do a test and bypass the BMS
I'll try that actually. Doubt it will make a difference but is easy to do because of the anderson connectors
@@EverythingEbikeChannel It'll make zero difference mate.
@@Vortecks Tried it today and yep, no difference. Got someone lending me another controller on Friday so new vid coming out of outcome of that soon hopefully...