Thanks for all the info Josh. These vids are so important for the community as you know. It’s crazy how much fine tuning goes into a DIY but fucking up, rebuilding, several trips to the hardware store, wrong parts, etc is part of it. No one ever talks about motor spacers/washers...thank you and Dr Chopper. Keep the great vids coming.
@@JoshStreetDesign Josh, i never read this comment before posting my other comment below. Did the company honor the fact they had in fact sent you the wrong motor? Or did you have to get a full refund and purchase another motor else where? Thank you in advance, just subscribed..
You all probably dont give a damn but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any tips you can give me
Got that a little backwards... the first number is the measurement of the widest distance between the sidewalls of the tire, in millimeters. The second number is the sidewall aspect ratio. It is a percentage that the tires sidewall height from rim to tread is (XX) percent of the first number. EX... 120/80 would mean the sidewall is 96mm (120x0.8=96). or 80/100 tire would be 80mm x 80mm after the math. Can look at it this way of the 120/80 example "(120)mm x (80)% = sidewall height)" Looks insanely tight ... Nice build man.. Keep the mods coming!!!
FUDGING love you bro!!! (Not gay) I have been struggling, for 8 hrs today with my 11kw motor! I kept messing up the spacers and that was killing me! Motor weights a damn ton I'll take a day off tomorrow and fix that up similar to yours Thanks a bunch 😎 Subscribed up
Hey man, thanks. It can be tricky, but if you're tire isn't as wide as mine it should be easier for you because I had to be perfect down to the millimeter to get my spacing right. but you want to try to get it as even on each side as possible.
@@ramwellness6950 yeah definitely . Hopefully you get your bike soon we can get out there together and you can get some off-bike shots of me. Actually though I have an older vlog video practically already made just sitting on a computer I haven't posted it yet
I done the same thing…I had the tire all the way on, and everything hooked up, and noticed I forgot to cut the top of the washer to prevent the hall sensor wire from getting damaged….I also mounted the rotor and forgot to but the plastic spacer on…this made the rotor further from the Frame and almost hit the hub….it sucked, lucky my frame has the drop outs that slide onto the back drop out arm. The torc strap is built into the tire holder, and just slides on…the other strap is used for kinda a spacer…it’s a weird setup….I can put a damn 29inch tire on the thing….if I wanted. I was worried when I ordered the frame….because I’m using 27.5 inch rims…it’s mainly a road bike, and sits low. Had to use a 150mm shock because I was way to short’ due to the bigger tires’ 27.5 inch rims make it look like a Tron motorcycle from the video game Lol
I’m trying to design side plate spacers to allow a person to cut part of that frame, and still mount to the frame. I’m experimenting with abs plastic and Aluminum to make it only necessary to only use fewer thump screws. I had to change a bulb in a ceiling fan…they have metal thumb screws….but the threads are a bit smaller, so I’m using a tap and die set, and going to increase the top of the abs plastic to screw into the frame after I cut out the top of the frame. There gonna be Part aluminum and part ABS plastic, I originally designed them to save weight, but they only knock 5 pounds off the frame. I have a few videos with pictures of them….they’re only just abs side panels now, but I’m planing on using aluminum sheet on that top part. As for the torc arms I wanna build them for the stealth bomber frame that has the smaller slit…and wielding steal chucks in them for more holding power…you can fast forward through the videos to see the torc straps my frame uses…I believe there’s 2 versions of that stealth bomber frame.
the sabvotons are manufactured by many different companies now so expect variations esspeciaslly in quality if you siaecosys or dunn they make high quality units
Great video man it is a crazy amount of work you did on that thing. I pretty much have the same frame , what did you zip tie the controller to? I don't see anything up inside the frame other than four studs.
@@JoshStreetDesign okay thank you they must have forgot to put the rails on mine they probably bolt to the four studs I'm seeing well easy enough to make thanks again!
I read on endless phere that you can unlock the controller yourself via software but I might be wrong. Also, with the new motor, you have to re-tune the controller for the new motor. Did you consider use EIG lipo cells? Check them out. They can do 200A discharge without breaking a sweat. Easy to build, easy to mount, 20ah each and they are cheap. Love your build! All the best. Cheers
Yeah I've tried all that it does not work on a locked controller. however it wouldn't matter because my BMS cuts off at 150 amps anyway as when I installed my 200 amp controller there was no difference even though I could tell it was trying to draw more power.
@@JoshStreetDesign So maybe the bottleneck is your bms. I have a regular 4kw commuter DIY Ebike which I'll be replacing for something like yours. I look forward to see your next videos!
Heya Mate put a 19 inch tube around the battery pack then pump it up and the pressure will totaly look the battery in possition and also provide protection against heavy landings. seen this done many times ,cheers
A tube definitely wouldn't fit in that case with the battery it's a very tight fitting at the bottom. It doesn't really matter though it's locked in tight as it is
hey Josh . learning progress , but we are getting better at detecting the wrongs .love your tire , I will be getting that tire when old is used up . 5t and you should be poppin´wheelies half throttle going 20mph on your sabvoton. keep videos coming. cheers
I love hearing that brother! the new wheel gets delivered tomorrow so I guess I'm going to be mounting it in front of the fireplace since there's going to be a blizzard tonight. But yeah that tires freaking amazing the ride was so much smoother, it totally sucks up the bumps at a low tire pressure
@@JoshStreetDesign I need that tire likewise. Building a bike similar to yours, but shooting for higher flux weakening, amps, and volts by having the battery to supply it. Building a 24s 11p, Samsung 25R INR 18650 2500mAh 3.7V High-Drain 20A pack (Ending up at 100.8V Nominal, 480A, and 27500Mah). Hopefully going to be able to fit a 450A BMS. Screw sabvotons. BAC8000s are insane. Same frame, stock seat.. blah blah.. Shooting for same suspension setup, but instead of the two 220mm, i'll use one 240mm and stiffen it. Thoughts?
@@hobsonmx7341 sounds like a kick butt battery dude that's awesome. What is that costing you total for that battery? I was thinking about upgrading to a better battery, a lipo pack with like 900 amp potential, but I ended up getting a 2015 Suzuki RMZ 250, and I've been dumping all my spare cash into that these last couple of weeks getting it race ready. Spent waaay to much so far, ha ha. BAC is out of the question right now. As far as flux weakening I think I've realized that this new controller isn't unlocked as it was supposed to be because just like my last controller it doesn't allow me to go over a 50 amps flux, which really pisses me off man. With a 5T motor having higher flux really helps get a higher top speed when the motor reaches its saturation point. But you should do a video of your build and document your specs and such. Thanks for all the comments!
@@JoshStreetDesign The battery's cells alone are 800$ flat (Shipped). Just stealin' em' from "BatteryJunction.com". Yea, I feel that with the moto $hit. Own an 06 Crf450R... Hard to not give it some goodies. You speak of a Li-po pack... planning on using remote controlled car batteries? A bunch of 100C, 10,000mah, 4S packs? Or have you seen the battery the "Ladi and Margaret" channel used? "th-cam.com/video/z86Mt6t6Cn8/w-d-xo.html" Was thinking about something like that... And yea, i'll most likely post a break-down of the build once it's done. Completely Diss-assemble and re-assemble on camera. Not sure if you've seen this, but there's a YT vid made by "DSZ garage"-has a bike similar to *Ours* (Mine ain't built yet). "(70) Ebike build 72v 12,500 Watt ( SABVOTON72150 - qs273 )" I'll do a vid like that. (Don't have to reply to this again lol)
@@hobsonmx7341 yeah I've seen that video of him breaking the bike down him and I have written back and forth too. It's funny the community of us guys who do this e-bike thing is relatively small still, at least in the e-bike emoto category. But what I mean lipos I mean a pack put together of about 10 to 12, 20,000 milliamp hour packs off hobby king that would run andt like 134 volts and be like 32 ah. It would cost about $2,000 all said and done if somebody else did it for me. No voltage sag either. I honestly don't like working with batteries putting them together it's just too much that could go wrong I'd rather have somebody who has a lot of experience doing it do it for me if I was going to go that route me.
2 question for you. A.) Going ham on single trails with a hub motor, haven't you bent rims? I'm wanting my enduro build to be off-roader, trail-rider, all-arounder. B.) With the controller and the battery inside the chassis, do you run into any thermal runaway issues when going really hard for a while? I'd figure you're pushing some amps and I'm torn on doing the same with my Kelly KLS7230S.
No never have thermal problems. And I have bent my rim yes and had to hammer it back in shape. However if you're going to be doing a lot of off-road riding just go with a sur ron.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck with those people, been screwed too, Calibike got me from right here in America. Definitely use Amazon for my Ebike parts. Running a QS 205 and a Bbshd at 72v. Two 72v 35ah in parallel feed both for 16.8kw.
youll find there is always wasted space in sabvotons ,ive had to trim them down quite a few times .have also seen a few water cooled and case removed all together
@@katiekumcgil yeah I'm on the waiting list for the nuclear 24f which is like much smaller than the sabvoton 72200. I would have upgraded to a NMC 60 amp hour battery but it doesn't fit with that controller in the case and I don't like the look of it with the outside the case.
Alright josh, quick question, what sort ov volts or amps are you using on your regen settings, I just don't want to set mine too high and blow something,
HEY I like all your vids I got the same bike well I got 2 of them one 3000w anf the qs273 Im putting together now I got the same swing arm but I dont have the pinch bolts pinching the axle to the swing time stamp 7:56 this vid did you do that
I've gotten everything done took my bike out for a ride it's great. The only thing I can't figure out is how to get the chain lined up to the back sprocket they are like an inch off from each other
@@JoshStreetDesign they sell spacers to go behind the rare one-way sprocket? I did not know that. Any idea what that rare thing is called is that a one-way sprocket or any idea what the spaces would be called
I plan on getting something like this next time around--maybe like a suron cause i still want to be able to casually ride--but I am scared to also possibly get screwed if something goes wrong by alibaba.
What brakes did you use? How is the braking? Can you slow the bike or do you find it's slowing but barely? I am running Hope Tech 3 V4 with 203mm rotors with the QS273. I found them to slow the bike but can't seem to get them to brake fast. Maybe I need to bleed the brakes? But installed them and they appeared to be working straight out the box.
Maybe not enough voltage, or bms won’t give enough juice. Voltage drop maybe due to controller needing more power. Don’t those controllers do all the way to like a 100volts?
I'm pretty sure the battery is the limiting factor here, but I was expecting at least a little more since I have the second battery running which should theoretically put it up to 190 amps of juice instead of 150. Bas far as what the display was showing I think it's a problem with the controller wiring not being interfaced properly with my display
@@JoshStreetDesign I know it does not. Look up the math and you will see as well. 4 12v 50 amp battery’s in P would be 12v 50 amps. I’m S it would be 48 200 amps.
Hey Josh, thanks for all the inspiration and motivation to build one. Can you tell me which bolts&nuts did you use to attach the 2x 210mm DNM RCP 2S 550lbs shocks into the frame??? Thanks
i thought u have to remove the 3wire white conector in order to be able to use the Bluetooth connection to ur phone! or ur controller hasnt got display output?
*Those tire are extremely hard put on lol but worth the effort! If your not a person who works manual labor or you got dish pan hands you may experience not being able to use your hands for a week or two lol*
I've actually got into a point now where I can change them in under 10 minutes flat. I got better spoons and using tire paste is the secret. makes it so much easier
I have a new Sabvoton, and what I learnt was, there is a wire/connector that comes off the display, disconnect that, make changes with the bluetooth app, while it is disconnected, the 30H comes up and the engine symbol comes up, when I have finished making changes via bluetooth, I connect that wire again, the 30H and engine symbol goes away, I get back my speed and wattage in the display and the settings are saved.
Yeah thanks for the comment but that wasn't the problem in this case as that wire was disconnected. I don't think this one is specifically compatible with this model as I've specified to the seller that I needed to be. they screwed me on the wheel winding, so it's no surprise they screwed me on the controller too which I don't think was fully unlocked either
@@HydroponicBackyardGiantsWA yeah it turns out I think my battery is a limiting factor as well, but right now I've been putting money into my dirt bike instead of this electric bike so a $2,100 battery upgrade is going to have to wait haha
Hey Josh love the video can you tell me what size tire you have on the front of your bike I'm thinking of putting on a 70/100/19 my bomber. I hope you have a great Christmas and a awesome New Year. Ride safe buddy and God Bless.
@@nunyabusiness2191 I don' think it was programmed correctly for that display. I think these guys just through them in the box not caring what they ship us.
Hi mate I have some question of your controller setup The controller is in the frame, but isn't it overhit? Is there any problem as it looks like it needs to cooler? other video that you uploaded, what temperature will the frame go up to if you run from off-road to full-road?
What size spokes did you use with the QS273? I have one on 19"motorcycle rim that's straight laced. I just bought another rim and want to get the wheel cross laced. I have no idea of the spoke size. Also what kick stand did you use? Can you help out with this?
For the 18 rim I don't know what length, I ordered the wheel already laced. I think the Grin website has a spoke length calculator though. you can find ebike kickstands on the AliExpress website
I didn't see anything in the video where you reprogrammed the controller once you put the new motor in. You'll probably have to do a new hall test and make sure that your amperage output is set where it needs to be on the controller.
Hey Josh, Hope all is well. I was wondering if you can share the settings you put on your Sabvoton 72200. I would like to compare your numbers to the numbers I have set on my 72200. Thanks Brother. Btw I may need to do what you did with your rear suspension. Dual DNM 220mm RCP 2S is a brilliant idea.
@@JoshStreetDesign Really just the input output settings. Lack Voltage, Over voltage, DC, boost, rated phase and Max phase current. I'm using the following on my set up. Lack voltage 65, current limiting 80, over voltage 85, DC/ boost/ rated phase Current 175, Max phase 350 and protective phase at 450. I have the 3.5T QS 273 and I just wanted to get an idea of what the 5T settings are in comparison. Thank you so much for the quick response and be safe out there when riding.
@@JoshStreetDesign Hey Josh, Hope all is well. I have some settings that I was able to put together with some help from MQCON for my QS273 3.5T motor on my Stealth clone cafe racer. Hope this helps you and others out. Sabvoton 72200 Controller Parameter Settings Lack Voltage- 58V Current- limiting Voltage- 65V Over Voltage- 85V DC Current- 200 AMPS Boost Current- 200 AMPS (If Boost is enabled) Rated Phase Current- 200 AMPS Max Phase Current- 450 AMPS Protective Phase Current- 500 to 550 AMPS Flux Weakening Enabled or Disabled (If disable ,the max speed will be reduce about 10~15%, and will extend the max mileage greatly. If enable ,the max speed and max dissipative current will be improved by about 10~15%.) Flux weaken current- 65 AMPS (works great for me) When the value is below 50, it will improve the max speed with economic dissipative current , when the value exceed 50 , controller will consume much more current to improve speed ,and the controller temperature will rise very fast. Value range : no more than 80A , we recommend about 50A. Regen ON Regen- 40 A E-Brake- On E-Brake Phase Current 35 A (For my stealth Bomber with QS 273 3.5T motor) Heavy Bike!
@@JoshStreetDesign I spoke to someone who said that they used some kind of software to unlock his sabvoton. I'll check and see if I can get the info on hat program.
Hey Josh, quick question for you, I have the 5000watt motor powered by a 72volt custom battery but using the standard controller that came with the bike, an 80a version,.Would you say upgrading to the Sabvoton makes a big difference? Cheers, H
Do you know exactly what the existing controller is, like the manufacture and model number? Also it depends on your battery. like what is your battery's BMS specs?
@@JoshStreetDesign thanks for the reply Josh, the controller is part of the kit that came with the alibaba stealth bike, it doesn't say much on it to be honest. As for the BMS I'm quite new to this! How would I find out about the BMS? Apparently there is an app I can use to sync with it but I have not done that yet. 😃
A controller is rated for amps 80 100 150 and soon. But your battery should have a built in bms that has a current rating. If your current rating for can only discharge 50amps then it makes no sense to get a controller bigger than 50a controller
@@JoshStreetDesign I believe that is reason you may have had issues with the swap from 72150 to a 72200. I believe the error 30H is because you had diagnostic cable disconnected. The controller has a one device per channel restriction meaning when diagnostic cable is connected it disables usb BT and communicates solely to TFT display. When the wire is disconnected it communicates directly to usb BT. You may have already figured this out but i thought id share.
Holy shit! My bike gets up to 64MPH in Kph it’s hitting above 100kph this is using a damn Savoton 80amp controller with a 3000w 3t motor with a 72v battery with a 80amp BMS…..64MPH with the equipment I have on my bike feels scary at that speed….you take off from a roll and the damn thing lifts up the front tire….definitely gives the gut a punch! I think I will be mostly in mode 3….0 4 5 is super scary….I think my weight is close to a female rider I weight 144 pounds….typically female will be at 110…I need to either gain weight or Invest In some better forks, and find a 27.5 wide tire bike.
hey Josh awesome vid bud you thru me by saying a locked controller i thought the restrictions came from programming and also sometimes the wiring can u explain a little more bud thanks
@@JoshStreetDesign A dude on the Internet named Ladi has a Online store where people can purchase a parts list or purchase access to his DIY videos... i am gonna bite the bullet and get the video for learning all the ins and outs of DIY Enduro building... I'll pop in from time to time and see if you got it figured out and if I learned anything to help.
@@JoshStreetDesign Not yet... I am just playin random ebike video's... the Election/Inauguration Bubble-gum b.s is gettin to be 2 much, as that is all that you tube is recommending today...
Do you mean 112mm or 120mm? Sorry brother, I think there was a typo. Thanks for responding. Also, what frame brand is it? I have been evaluating the QS Motor 273 4000w 40h. It has a narrower dropout than most of the higher power rated 273 motors with a 189mm dropout, and recommending on their own site 200mm frame dropout for these. Any input is much appreciated. Thanks so much. Larry
@@Want2cJesus it's what the frame came with. You need that width for the 273 motor. Just search aliexpress or alibaba for my frame and make sure it's the updated version 2 of the frame where the brake disc mounts are solid on the back.
The performance is the same because it's the same exact motor they messed up and sent me the wrong one . The 5T is supposed to come in the mail tomorrow but with the blizzard we're having right now probably won't come on time
It's sort of does but it's a little sensitive with the forward and backwards movements so it tends to be on a lot. Lately I've just been using manual button turning it on when I'm driving around at night. I tend to turn it off in the woods because sometimes I'm in places I'm not supposed to be so I don't want people seeing the light, haha
Hey not sure I understand your question... What swing arm droop? The swing arm angle is not changing at all. The optimum angle on this frame requires a 210 mm rear shock. A 240 would be far too large and would not work on this frame. the reason I'm running two shocks is because that I had a little too much sag with a single shock with a 750 lb spring so instead I went with double shocks with two 500 lb springs and it works out pretty good. I have them set on the lowest settings so that it's not too stiff.
@@JoshStreetDesign Oh, wow. Alright. That saves me an $100 dollar mistake if you're correct. Thank you. Our weight is probably pretty close, so having two shocks isn't a bad idea. I'm known to send lol.
I’m having an issue with my battery pack. Once I go over 25mpg, my controller gets an error and the bike won’t go any faster nor let me use the throttle unless I come to a stop. Any ideas regarding this issue that you might no that way I can look into it ( would greatly appreciate it ). By the way, I remembered I had asked you regarding the green light in the sabvoton controller 72200 and the bike not working. come to find out, it was my throttle which I changed up and was running but came across this current issue.
The seat is from CAB motorworks, and it looks as if they just stopped selling them as separate items from their bikes. But yes I had to drill new holes in the frame for the mounts.
@@JoshStreetDesign I watch your videos over and over again. in a short time I will have my bike ready and I am already looking for some places here in Connecticut to ride.
@@shavkat84 they don't have to be the same amperage. A batteries bms will only allow a certain amount of amps to flow no matter what the controller is asking for.
@@JoshStreetDesign in my case 80amp controller and 50amp bms in full throttle i was getting messages, something like power protection , until i installed new bms with 100amp
@@JoshStreetDesign where did u get this from. Also i cant see a unlocked version anywhere of 200a. But i seen a controller thats called the asi bac 4000 that can throw like 50kw but that could prob cook ur motor lol but i cant find it anywhere EDIT: also i have another question. Where did u get all ur parts from like what website... alibaba? Sorry if im bothering u
@@everythinginsearchsearch9393 look in the description of the video you can see all my stuff in detail. And by the way the ASI 4000 is nowhere near capable of putting out 50 KW
That sucks. Who can you trust anymore ? People don't realize how hard it is to make or modify e-bikes. When you order stuff it comes with, either no instructions, missing parts, or instructions that are useless. Connectors don't match, the color coding of the wires don't match... It's a nightmare. I appreciate this video because it's honest. Don't give up. Learn from the experience and don't be fooled again. It's expensive to learn from the pitfalls, but over time you will make it work and you can still use the parts for other projects. It's not a total loss.
@@JoshStreetDesign well the cells are pretty good and with your 20p 72v configuration, according to datasheet it can hold the current up to 200A +-continious and even 300A peak. It is strange that the voltage drop is so big. Would be interesting to connect to BMS via Bluetooth and check out what's going there under load
@@nikita-shamrai my battery is BMS limited to 150 amps. I guess I could take the thing apart and bypass that but I'm really not interested in that as it could possibly destroy the battery long-term
@@JoshStreetDesign yes. High current is not very healthy for battery... I use AntBMS with Bluetooth to control every parameter of my battery. It works super stable and I think it is the must have device for any powerful battery, so I recommend it (maybe on future battery)
As stated in the video the tire is on a 1.85-in x 18 motorcycle rim. Very thick. : ). And by the way the 205 is not an 8kw motor it is only a 3 KW motor those are fake stats used to promote extra sales.
@@JoshStreetDesign its 8kw my batteries are pulling 19kw at 96v and yeah bike tires can be a little tough but I meant try putting them on a 3.5-5 inch rim thats what I'm using
205 does come in 8kw in version 4, its a 17 inch wheel and does about 156tops @ 96v with an ASI controller and the caps swapped out inside to handle 96v
205 is rim to tire motor 273, is bicycle spoke motor, the bicycle go to 15kw tops ive seen and 205 goes up to 20kw. Ive been building for 10 years now I have mountains style and Electric motorcycle style builds
Your battery cannot catch up with your controller. Your controller sucking up that much current making your voltage sag to much. Change your controller settings on max battery current and increase your phase current alittle. The controller capacitor will adjust for it, but your controller for sure will heat up.
Yeah I tried that, dialed them wayyyy back, but it made no difference at any setting. The phase is maxed out at 450 and 550 protect. I think it was just a controller display mismatch...although I can't be positive. Think I'm gonna just switch back to old controller for peace of mind. If I ever get a new battery I might try it again.
Hi, ANY chance of naming the company that tucked you up so that i and others following can AVOID making the same mistake by using them. China seems to be living up to its reputation.
Why not just mount the controller on the underbelly..? saves a ton of space EDIT: Watched the entire video. Maaaaan that's alot of work and alot of cutting of the frame that could've been avoided by just placing the controller outside. You didn't have to cut a giant hole just to fit the hall sensor connector but instead just solder it directly to the controller or get a smaller Bafang 5 pin waterproof connector.
Yeah but I totally hate the way the controller looks on the outside of the bike, not to mention I didn't want those wires hanging out there because there's really no proper way to cover them fully. besides if you saw my other video you would know that I have a secondary battery in the controller box below the bike which fits in there perfectly so I wouldn't be able to put the controller out there even if I wanted to.
Yo josh what are you doing with old motor and wheel? I'm trying to upgrade to motorcycle wheels I have mountain bike wheels (26"). You interested in selling?
@@JoshStreetDesign once again thanks man and one more question should i go wit 205 or 273 i want only 5t please suggest me and can u tell me how many miles can i get for both motors
@@justbikesanvesh9549 definitely go with the 273, it has more torque than the 205. Contact NB Power and ask for Raina Yu, tell her I referred you and you're looking for the 18-in cross laced wheel with a 273 motor
@@JoshStreetDesign whoops... does the double rear shock work? I recently went to a fox shock with a heavier spring? Smooth out the rear end with that big motor
@@ThePathfinders0369 it definitely works. I was getting too much sag with a single shock so that's why I went double and then set the settings on the lowest levels
@@HeroSo if you're going to use Alibaba for a complete bike go with NB power, they are the cheapest. You want to keep refreshing the screen until you get Raina as your contact. For some reason she gives lower prices than everybody else. She's who I used to buy my motors
Wait a minute ….do you know what “double sheared” means? You auta weld tabs on if you wanna run excessive weight or a spare shock. I can talk or write all this shit because I have the same frame.
I'm using Paypal so if I don't get what is promised paypal said they will refund my money for sure,..so there is no risk of getting screwed,...which is what I was waiting for since last year,.is for paypal to be excepted by Chinese companies !!!
@@JoshStreetDesign true... If you can , try using 90c lipo... even in a smaller pack just to see the difference in lag... I am not running such a large heavy bike, but I know that the difference for me between high c rated lipo and low c rated batts all piled up...
@@JoshStreetDesign no, I don't use 18650 at all... I use Lipo's in series, however, perhaps for your application you could use a capacitor to deliver the surge ?
@@Simplyflyit oh gotcha. Yeah I would love to switch over to a lipo series pack, but the level I would need would cost me over 2k, and lately I've been dumping the spare cash into my dirt bike. Maybe down the road.
@@JoshStreetDesign that was my issue. I was going scrath the powdercoated rims. The moto rims are a bitch. You really need a machine. I just hate paying the cost to have them mounted.
Fair enough... No it's not like my suzuki rmz... But bring your electric bike to where I ride and we'll have a little race see how it goes... Think you'd be surprised. : )
Also sabvoton are garbage try ASI controller much more compact much more power reliabitilty, ive blown numerous controllers and the sabvorons never lasted more than 3 sessions
@@JoshStreetDesign yeah I loved how smooth they were but they never lasted in my builds always had problem with the halls acting up would start and go great cone to a stop and bike wouldn't go again, your using the 72v system, i was using the svmc 96120 pretty good amperage right now I'm running the BAC4000 by ASI and I opened it and soldered different caps in theyre im not about to buy another battery so I'm stuck 96v 120Ah
@@chrisdenault8660 that's nothing to sneeze at though. I don't know if you saw part two of this video but with the 5t motor I'm running now this thing has awesome low end torque for the woods riding I do. It's a blast to ride
![POWERFUL EBIKE QS273 5T Upgrade Verdict - Better than 3.5t ??? [Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LJEx6iZzZX0/mqdefault.jpg)
![POWERFUL EBIKE QS273 5T Upgrade Verdict - Better than 3.5t ??? [Part 2]](/img/tr.png)
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for all the info Josh. These vids are so important for the community as you know. It’s crazy how much fine tuning goes into a DIY but fucking up, rebuilding, several trips to the hardware store, wrong parts, etc is part of it.
No one ever talks about motor spacers/washers...thank you and Dr Chopper. Keep the great vids coming.
You're very welcome bud! Glad to share the knowledge and frustrations, ha ha. Part two soon. The new actual 5t motor gets delivered tomorrow.
@@JoshStreetDesign Josh, i never read this comment before posting my other comment below. Did the company honor the fact they had in fact sent you the wrong motor? Or did you have to get a full refund and purchase another motor else where? Thank you in advance, just subscribed..
know
You all probably dont give a damn but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Cassius Onyx instablaster :)
Battery C ratings can limit you. Also cold weather will cause big voltage sags
I agree... the battery is the issue... connect a 70-90c lipo and see what happens...
@Brian Goff can you explain the c rating a little more? Is that the ability to dump current?
No worries dude the new motor will be awesome and this will be behind you.....keep on pushin! Great video!
Thanks my brother!!!!
Thanks for your tires advice btw!
Got that a little backwards... the first number is the measurement of the widest distance between the sidewalls of the tire, in millimeters. The second number is the sidewall aspect ratio. It is a percentage that the tires sidewall height from rim to tread is (XX) percent of the first number. EX... 120/80 would mean the sidewall is 96mm (120x0.8=96). or 80/100 tire would be 80mm x 80mm after the math. Can look at it this way of the 120/80 example "(120)mm x (80)% = sidewall height)" Looks insanely tight ... Nice build man.. Keep the mods coming!!!
Yeah I realized I said it wrong when I went back to edit it but I was like too late whatever, ha ha. Thanks man
FUDGING love you bro!!! (Not gay)
I have been struggling, for 8 hrs today with my 11kw motor! I kept messing up the spacers and that was killing me! Motor weights a damn ton
I'll take a day off tomorrow and fix that up similar to yours
Thanks a bunch 😎
Subscribed up
Hey man, thanks. It can be tricky, but if you're tire isn't as wide as mine it should be easier for you because I had to be perfect down to the millimeter to get my spacing right. but you want to try to get it as even on each side as possible.
I also had that problem. And when I would turn the wheel it would be hard to move.
Dang bro! All that work. Major learning points though.
The new correct five T motor comes in tomorrow. I'm excited for that but not excited to do all the work completely from scratch again haha
@@JoshStreetDesign More riding vlogs with the new tire setup!
@@ramwellness6950 yeah definitely . Hopefully you get your bike soon we can get out there together and you can get some off-bike shots of me. Actually though I have an older vlog video practically already made just sitting on a computer I haven't posted it yet
I done the same thing…I had the tire all the way on, and everything hooked up, and noticed I forgot to cut the top of the washer to prevent the hall sensor wire from getting damaged….I also mounted the rotor and forgot to but the plastic spacer on…this made the rotor further from the Frame and almost hit the hub….it sucked, lucky my frame has the drop outs that slide onto the back drop out arm.
The torc strap is built into the tire holder, and just slides on…the other strap is used for kinda a spacer…it’s a weird setup….I can put a damn 29inch tire on the thing….if I wanted.
I was worried when I ordered the frame….because I’m using 27.5 inch rims…it’s mainly a road bike, and sits low.
Had to use a 150mm shock because I was way to short’ due to the bigger tires’ 27.5 inch rims make it look like a Tron motorcycle from the video game Lol
I’m trying to design side plate spacers to allow a person to cut part of that frame, and still mount to the frame.
I’m experimenting with abs plastic and Aluminum to make it only necessary to only use fewer thump screws.
I had to change a bulb in a ceiling fan…they have metal thumb screws….but the threads are a bit smaller, so I’m using a tap and die set, and going to increase the top of the abs plastic to screw into the frame after I cut out the top of the frame.
There gonna be Part aluminum and part ABS plastic, I originally designed them to save weight, but they only knock 5 pounds off the frame.
I have a few videos with pictures of them….they’re only just abs side panels now, but I’m planing on using aluminum sheet on that top part.
As for the torc arms I wanna build them for the stealth bomber frame that has the smaller slit…and wielding steal chucks in them for more holding power…you can fast forward through the videos to see the torc straps my frame uses…I believe there’s 2 versions of that stealth bomber frame.
Interesting video, thank you. Why did you choose Sabvoton? What do you think of the FarDriver controller?
the sabvotons are manufactured by many different companies now so expect variations esspeciaslly in quality if you siaecosys or dunn they make high quality units
Great video man it is a crazy amount of work you did on that thing. I pretty much have the same frame , what did you zip tie the controller to? I don't see anything up inside the frame other than four studs.
Thanks! There's these two rails up inside the frame on the top on either side made just for zip ties.
@@JoshStreetDesign okay thank you they must have forgot to put the rails on mine they probably bolt to the four studs I'm seeing well easy enough to make thanks again!
I read on endless phere that you can unlock the controller yourself via software but I might be wrong.
Also, with the new motor, you have to re-tune the controller for the new motor.
Did you consider use EIG lipo cells? Check them out. They can do 200A discharge without breaking a sweat. Easy to build, easy to mount, 20ah each and they are cheap.
Love your build! All the best.
Cheers
Yeah I've tried all that it does not work on a locked controller. however it wouldn't matter because my BMS cuts off at 150 amps anyway as when I installed my 200 amp controller there was no difference even though I could tell it was trying to draw more power.
@@JoshStreetDesign So maybe the bottleneck is your bms.
I have a regular 4kw commuter DIY Ebike which I'll be replacing for something like yours. I look forward to see your next videos!
@@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes yeah, that is what it is. But yeah, working on the next ride video now. It's a good one
I didn't see a frame in your parts list. what frame did you use?
hi, Josh do you have a video on how you mounted both of those rear shocks ?
Heya Mate put a 19 inch tube around the battery pack then pump it up and the pressure will totaly look the battery in possition and also provide protection against heavy landings. seen this done many times ,cheers
A tube definitely wouldn't fit in that case with the battery it's a very tight fitting at the bottom. It doesn't really matter though it's locked in tight as it is
hey Josh . learning progress , but we are getting better at detecting the wrongs .love your tire , I will be getting that tire when old is used up . 5t and you should be poppin´wheelies half throttle going 20mph on your sabvoton. keep videos coming. cheers
I love hearing that brother! the new wheel gets delivered tomorrow so I guess I'm going to be mounting it in front of the fireplace since there's going to be a blizzard tonight. But yeah that tires freaking amazing the ride was so much smoother, it totally sucks up the bumps at a low tire pressure
@@JoshStreetDesign I need that tire likewise. Building a bike similar to yours, but shooting for higher flux weakening, amps, and volts by having the battery to supply it. Building a 24s 11p, Samsung 25R INR 18650 2500mAh 3.7V High-Drain 20A pack (Ending up at 100.8V Nominal, 480A, and 27500Mah). Hopefully going to be able to fit a 450A BMS. Screw sabvotons. BAC8000s are insane. Same frame, stock seat.. blah blah.. Shooting for same suspension setup, but instead of the two 220mm, i'll use one 240mm and stiffen it. Thoughts?
@@hobsonmx7341 sounds like a kick butt battery dude that's awesome. What is that costing you total for that battery? I was thinking about upgrading to a better battery, a lipo pack with like 900 amp potential, but I ended up getting a 2015 Suzuki RMZ 250, and I've been dumping all my spare cash into that these last couple of weeks getting it race ready. Spent waaay to much so far, ha ha. BAC is out of the question right now. As far as flux weakening I think I've realized that this new controller isn't unlocked as it was supposed to be because just like my last controller it doesn't allow me to go over a 50 amps flux, which really pisses me off man. With a 5T motor having higher flux really helps get a higher top speed when the motor reaches its saturation point. But you should do a video of your build and document your specs and such. Thanks for all the comments!
@@JoshStreetDesign The battery's cells alone are 800$ flat (Shipped). Just stealin' em' from "BatteryJunction.com". Yea, I feel that with the moto $hit. Own an 06 Crf450R... Hard to not give it some goodies. You speak of a Li-po pack... planning on using remote controlled car batteries? A bunch of 100C, 10,000mah, 4S packs? Or have you seen the battery the "Ladi and Margaret" channel used? "th-cam.com/video/z86Mt6t6Cn8/w-d-xo.html" Was thinking about something like that... And yea, i'll most likely post a break-down of the build once it's done. Completely Diss-assemble and re-assemble on camera. Not sure if you've seen this, but there's a YT vid made by "DSZ garage"-has a bike similar to *Ours* (Mine ain't built yet). "(70) Ebike build 72v 12,500 Watt ( SABVOTON72150 - qs273 )" I'll do a vid like that. (Don't have to reply to this again lol)
@@hobsonmx7341 yeah I've seen that video of him breaking the bike down him and I have written back and forth too. It's funny the community of us guys who do this e-bike thing is relatively small still, at least in the e-bike emoto category. But what I mean lipos I mean a pack put together of about 10 to 12, 20,000 milliamp hour packs off hobby king that would run andt like 134 volts and be like 32 ah. It would cost about $2,000 all said and done if somebody else did it for me. No voltage sag either. I honestly don't like working with batteries putting them together it's just too much that could go wrong I'd rather have somebody who has a lot of experience doing it do it for me if I was going to go that route me.
Jacked that Ken Block has gotten into ebikes. Subbed
Really, what has he done?
Great Vid Josh! My bike was just ordered today, 15KW Bomber. What camera do you use for your vids? Super crisp video!
Thanks! I shoot with the Sony A7r4. : ). My business is photography.
2 question for you. A.) Going ham on single trails with a hub motor, haven't you bent rims? I'm wanting my enduro build to be off-roader, trail-rider, all-arounder. B.) With the controller and the battery inside the chassis, do you run into any thermal runaway issues when going really hard for a while? I'd figure you're pushing some amps and I'm torn on doing the same with my Kelly KLS7230S.
No never have thermal problems. And I have bent my rim yes and had to hammer it back in shape. However if you're going to be doing a lot of off-road riding just go with a sur ron.
@@JoshStreetDesign funny bit, I have a Surron as well. This one is my cheaper bike in total and the surron is too clean to really destroy.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck with those people, been screwed too, Calibike got me from right here in America. Definitely use Amazon for my Ebike parts. Running a QS 205 and a Bbshd at 72v. Two 72v 35ah in parallel feed both for 16.8kw.
170-233 amps from your pack?!??
Amazing video. I was thinking of getting the 80amps sabvton controller for a 3kw motor build. But the controller seems really big
Go bigger, get the 72150 at least!
youll find there is always wasted space in sabvotons ,ive had to trim them down quite a few times .have also seen a few water cooled and case removed all together
@@katiekumcgil yeah I'm on the waiting list for the nuclear 24f which is like much smaller than the sabvoton 72200. I would have upgraded to a NMC 60 amp hour battery but it doesn't fit with that controller in the case and I don't like the look of it with the outside the case.
Check out kelly controller mini s... It's like 1/5 the size of sabvoton and still has huge amp outputs
Alright josh, quick question, what sort ov volts or amps are you using on your regen settings, I just don't want to set mine too high and blow something,
Don't use Regen
How fast can a 15000w ebike goes with a 72v battery 58ah 200amp bms 200amp controller
HEY I like all your vids I got the same bike well I got 2 of them one 3000w anf the qs273 Im putting together now I got the same swing arm but I dont have the pinch bolts pinching the axle to the swing time stamp 7:56 this vid did you do that
I've gotten everything done took my bike out for a ride it's great.
The only thing I can't figure out is how to get the chain lined up to the back sprocket they are like an inch off from each other
You have to put spacers on the rear axle before you put that rear sprocket on. It's a trial and error type game
@@JoshStreetDesign they sell spacers to go behind the rare one-way sprocket?
I did not know that.
Any idea what that rare thing is called is that a one-way sprocket or any idea what the spaces would be called
@@johnfarias7230 you can just go to home Depot or Lowe's and get big metal washers and stack them
@@JoshStreetDesign do you mean you want me to offset the wheel to one side cuz right now I have the rim and tie a perfectly in the center
I plan on getting something like this next time around--maybe like a suron cause i still want to be able to casually ride--but I am scared to also possibly get screwed if something goes wrong by alibaba.
What brakes did you use? How is the braking? Can you slow the bike or do you find it's slowing but barely? I am running Hope Tech 3 V4 with 203mm rotors with the QS273. I found them to slow the bike but can't seem to get them to brake fast. Maybe I need to bleed the brakes? But installed them and they appeared to be working straight out the box.
Shimano Zee on 220mm rotors, combined with 30amp electronic braking, (not regen) it stops great. My bike is almost 200lbs.
Did your bike come with dual rear sus? Or did you do it? Looks great
Thanks. I built the bike. It's easy to put the dual shocks on it. I needed something a bit more then the 750lb shock
Maybe not enough voltage, or bms won’t give enough juice.
Voltage drop maybe due to controller needing more power.
Don’t those controllers do all the way to like a 100volts?
I'm pretty sure the battery is the limiting factor here, but I was expecting at least a little more since I have the second battery running which should theoretically put it up to 190 amps of juice instead of 150. Bas far as what the display was showing I think it's a problem with the controller wiring not being interfaced properly with my display
@@JoshStreetDesign If you have them in parallel and not series it does not add any amperage.
@@elevationtc no it doesn't
@@JoshStreetDesign I know it does not. Look up the math and you will see as well. 4 12v 50 amp battery’s in P would be 12v 50 amps. I’m S it would be 48 200 amps.
Hey Josh, thanks for all the inspiration and motivation to build one. Can you tell me which bolts&nuts did you use to attach the 2x 210mm DNM RCP 2S 550lbs shocks into the frame??? Thanks
Stick with one shock, it's too stiff with two
i thought u have to remove the 3wire white conector in order to be able to use the Bluetooth connection to ur phone! or ur controller hasnt got display output?
Yes you do and I did. : )
*Those tire are extremely hard put on lol but worth the effort! If your not a person who works manual labor or you got dish pan hands you may experience not being able to use your hands for a week or two lol*
I've actually got into a point now where I can change them in under 10 minutes flat. I got better spoons and using tire paste is the secret. makes it so much easier
I have a new Sabvoton, and what I learnt was, there is a wire/connector that comes off the display, disconnect that, make changes with the bluetooth app, while it is disconnected, the 30H comes up and the engine symbol comes up, when I have finished making changes via bluetooth, I connect that wire again, the 30H and engine symbol goes away, I get back my speed and wattage in the display and the settings are saved.
Yeah thanks for the comment but that wasn't the problem in this case as that wire was disconnected. I don't think this one is specifically compatible with this model as I've specified to the seller that I needed to be. they screwed me on the wheel winding, so it's no surprise they screwed me on the controller too which I don't think was fully unlocked either
@@JoshStreetDesign having trouble with my controller too, stuck at 2100w, I think my battery is whats limiting me. Good Luck!
@@HydroponicBackyardGiantsWA yeah it turns out I think my battery is a limiting factor as well, but right now I've been putting money into my dirt bike instead of this electric bike so a $2,100 battery upgrade is going to have to wait haha
nice build man. do you have a solenoid between your ignition and the battery with a 12v power supply?
no
Hey Josh love the video can you tell me what size tire you have on the front of your bike I'm thinking of putting on a 70/100/19 my bomber. I hope you have a great Christmas and a awesome New Year. Ride safe buddy and God Bless.
thanks man. it's an 80/100-21
I had a 30H on my bike changed the display screen all back to normal.
To the same screen or a different screen?
Right?!? My display was 30H also when I switched to the 200a unlocked. Please let us know
@@nunyabusiness2191 I don' think it was programmed correctly for that display. I think these guys just through them in the box not caring what they ship us.
just wrap the cable in an long spring made with thin wire, which will protect the cable not touching the wheel.
But why would I want to do that when the plastic casing I use is already doing an awesome job?
Hi mate I have some question of your controller setup
The controller is in the frame, but isn't it overhit?
Is there any problem as it looks like it needs to cooler?
other video that you uploaded, what temperature will the frame go up to if you run from off-road to full-road?
No I've never had a problem with it overheating at all
@@JoshStreetDesign Thank you so much It's really help for me !
I have a B-52 I wonder if I can put those tires
I don't think the swingarm is wide enough in the original B52
What size spokes did you use with the QS273? I have one on 19"motorcycle rim that's straight laced. I just bought another rim and want to get the wheel cross laced. I have no idea of the spoke size. Also what kick stand did you use? Can you help out with this?
For the 18 rim I don't know what length, I ordered the wheel already laced. I think the Grin website has a spoke length calculator though. you can find ebike kickstands on the AliExpress website
Hi what you doing with the 3.5t is gfor ssle
I didn't see anything in the video where you reprogrammed the controller once you put the new motor in. You'll probably have to do a new hall test and make sure that your amperage output is set where it needs to be on the controller.
It didn't need it
I have a doubt. what is the benefit of having a Sabvoton Controller UNLOCKED ???
Hey Josh, Hope all is well. I was wondering if you can share the settings you put on your Sabvoton 72200. I would like to compare your numbers to the numbers I have set on my 72200. Thanks Brother. Btw I may need to do what you did with your rear suspension. Dual DNM 220mm RCP 2S is a brilliant idea.
It would take forever to write all the settings in here what specifically you're looking for generally I maxed out everything
@@JoshStreetDesign Really just the input output settings. Lack Voltage, Over voltage, DC, boost, rated phase and Max phase current. I'm using the following on my set up. Lack voltage 65, current limiting 80, over voltage 85, DC/ boost/ rated phase Current 175, Max phase 350 and protective phase at 450. I have the 3.5T QS 273 and I just wanted to get an idea of what the 5T settings are in comparison. Thank you so much for the quick response and be safe out there when riding.
@@JoshStreetDesign Hey Josh, Hope all is well. I have some settings that I was able to put together with some help from MQCON for my QS273 3.5T motor on my Stealth clone cafe racer. Hope this helps you and others out.
Sabvoton 72200 Controller Parameter Settings
Lack Voltage- 58V
Current- limiting Voltage- 65V
Over Voltage- 85V
DC Current- 200 AMPS
Boost Current- 200 AMPS (If Boost is enabled)
Rated Phase Current- 200 AMPS
Max Phase Current- 450 AMPS
Protective Phase Current- 500 to 550 AMPS
Flux Weakening Enabled or Disabled
(If disable ,the max speed will be reduce about 10~15%, and will extend the max mileage greatly.
If enable ,the max speed and max dissipative current will be improved by about 10~15%.)
Flux weaken current- 65 AMPS (works great for me)
When the value is below 50, it will improve the max speed with economic dissipative current , when the value exceed 50 , controller will consume much more current to improve speed ,and the controller temperature will rise very fast.
Value range : no more than 80A , we recommend about 50A.
Regen ON
Regen- 40 A
E-Brake- On
E-Brake Phase Current 35 A (For my stealth Bomber with QS 273 3.5T motor) Heavy Bike!
@@jfeliciano15 mine was locked so I couldn't change any of this
@@JoshStreetDesign I spoke to someone who said that they used some kind of software to unlock his sabvoton. I'll check and see if I can get the info on hat program.
Hey Josh, quick question for you, I have the 5000watt motor powered by a 72volt custom battery but using the standard controller that came with the bike, an 80a version,.Would you say upgrading to the Sabvoton makes a big difference? Cheers, H
Do you know exactly what the existing controller is, like the manufacture and model number? Also it depends on your battery. like what is your battery's BMS specs?
@@JoshStreetDesign thanks for the reply Josh, the controller is part of the kit that came with the alibaba stealth bike, it doesn't say much on it to be honest. As for the BMS I'm quite new to this! How would I find out about the BMS? Apparently there is an app I can use to sync with it but I have not done that yet. 😃
A controller is rated for amps 80 100 150 and soon. But your battery should have a built in bms that has a current rating. If your current rating for can only discharge 50amps then it makes no sense to get a controller bigger than 50a controller
However you can switch your bms to a bigger one for much cheaper than you'll buy a whole new battery
@@MotoAlias yes I know. My battery is 150amp Max. When I get the nuclear 24f I will be updating the battery.
howd you get the 200mm qs273 on a 175mm stealth bomber dropout?
At 15:41 I can tell something was wrong, cause you already looked pissed
YOu using 84V or 72V battery also does your Battery have BMS continuous 200A?
It's a 72 volt battery running at 84 volts fully charged with 150 amp Max BMS
@@JoshStreetDesign I believe that is reason you may have had issues with the swap from 72150 to a 72200. I believe the error 30H is because you had diagnostic cable disconnected. The controller has a one device per channel restriction meaning when diagnostic cable is connected it disables usb BT and communicates solely to TFT display. When the wire is disconnected it communicates directly to usb BT. You may have already figured this out but i thought id share.
Holy shit! My bike gets up to 64MPH in Kph it’s hitting above 100kph this is using a damn Savoton 80amp controller with a 3000w 3t motor with a 72v battery with a 80amp BMS…..64MPH with the equipment I have on my bike feels scary at that speed….you take off from a roll and the damn thing lifts up the front tire….definitely gives the gut a punch!
I think I will be mostly in mode 3….0 4 5 is super scary….I think my weight is close to a female rider I weight 144 pounds….typically female will be at 110…I need to either gain weight or Invest In some better forks, and find a 27.5 wide tire bike.
Are you able to provide info on the extra battery? How big and who made it?
All that detailed information is in a specific video I made just about that just check out my channel
hey Josh awesome vid bud you thru me by saying a locked controller i thought the restrictions came from programming and also sometimes the wiring can u explain a little more bud thanks
Yeah the firmware is locked out you literally cannot unlock it via computer I tried multiple ways in a matter what it just doesn't let you do it
I hope you ran a test when you connected the Controller with the motor, if ya did not, you could ruin either or both...
Yes, the hall sensor test. Turns out I didn't need though as the settings were exactly the same.
@@JoshStreetDesign A dude on the Internet named Ladi has a Online store where people can purchase a parts list or purchase access to his DIY videos... i am gonna bite the bullet and get the video for learning all the ins and outs of DIY Enduro building... I'll pop in from time to time and see if you got it figured out and if I learned anything to help.
@@joeows6537 yeah I know him. And yes I got it all figured out did you see part two of this video?
@@JoshStreetDesign Not yet... I am just playin random ebike video's... the Election/Inauguration Bubble-gum b.s is gettin to be 2 much, as that is all that you tube is recommending today...
@@joeows6537 agreeeeed
Nice but those Giant Hub motors are consuming too much power. Middrive is a bit more efficient.
Well if you got the power, mine as well use it
Sweet upgrade video. Can I buy your old controller 😉
Awesome bike setup! Would love to know the frame you chose and what is the qs273 3.5t dropout and what is the actual frame rear dropout? Thanks, Larry
Both the frame drop out and the 273 drop out are 12 mm
Do you mean 112mm or 120mm? Sorry brother, I think there was a typo. Thanks for responding. Also, what frame brand is it? I have been evaluating the QS Motor 273 4000w 40h. It has a narrower dropout than most of the higher power rated 273 motors with a 189mm dropout, and recommending on their own site 200mm frame dropout for these. Any input is much appreciated. Thanks so much. Larry
@@Want2cJesus 12 mm is the axle size the size of the dropouts the axle goes into if you're talking to width between drop out the dropout mine is 170mm
@@JoshStreetDesign
Where did you find a frame with a 170mm dropout, or did you expand your rear fork from the factory set?
@@Want2cJesus it's what the frame came with. You need that width for the 273 motor. Just search aliexpress or alibaba for my frame and make sure it's the updated version 2 of the frame where the brake disc mounts are solid on the back.
Hi, congrats for your ebike! could you please give me the length of the spokes of your front wheel and you rear wheel ? thank you so much
hey .. tell me .. you put 2 batteries in this frame ??
I have a whole other video specifically just on that. Check the channel
Dam bro that's crazy the performance is the same.
The performance is the same because it's the same exact motor they messed up and sent me the wrong one . The 5T is supposed to come in the mail tomorrow but with the blizzard we're having right now probably won't come on time
Another thing: How is the tail light working? Does its "Smart Auto Brake-light" actually work?
It's sort of does but it's a little sensitive with the forward and backwards movements so it tends to be on a lot. Lately I've just been using manual button turning it on when I'm driving around at night. I tend to turn it off in the woods because sometimes I'm in places I'm not supposed to be so I don't want people seeing the light, haha
@@JoshStreetDesign I feel that. Yea, i'm contemplating having a tail-light at all.
@@hobsonmx7341 well if you'll be on the road and all, it def helps for visibility at night.
How much further does the swing-arm droop? Why wouldn't you have gone with two 240mm dnm shocks instead? Or one?
Hey not sure I understand your question... What swing arm droop? The swing arm angle is not changing at all. The optimum angle on this frame requires a 210 mm rear shock. A 240 would be far too large and would not work on this frame. the reason I'm running two shocks is because that I had a little too much sag with a single shock with a 750 lb spring so instead I went with double shocks with two 500 lb springs and it works out pretty good. I have them set on the lowest settings so that it's not too stiff.
@@JoshStreetDesign Oh, wow. Alright. That saves me an $100 dollar mistake if you're correct. Thank you. Our weight is probably pretty close, so having two shocks isn't a bad idea. I'm known to send lol.
@@hobsonmx7341 I mean, you would probably be fine with the single shock, and you can even get one with an 850lb spring from cyklone ebike.
Did you do a hall test with the new set up?
Yes
Did you get your battery made by someone or was it purchased through AliExpress or Alibaba online shopper?
I’m having an issue with my battery pack. Once I go over 25mpg, my controller gets an error and the bike won’t go any faster nor let me use the throttle unless I come to a stop. Any ideas regarding this issue that you might no that way I can look into it ( would greatly appreciate it ). By the way, I remembered I had asked you regarding the green light in the sabvoton controller 72200 and the bike not working. come to find out, it was my throttle which I changed up and was running but came across this current issue.
@@christopherfigueroa4143 mine was purchased alibaba. You may have the controller set to limit your amperage
@@JoshStreetDesign could you send the link to the buyer which you bought the battery from on Alibaba?
@@christopherfigueroa4143 it was the blue dot company, just search that name
@@JoshStreetDesign 🤔 can’t seem to find them. Was it on Alibaba or AliExpress app?
Can I please buy the old motor
Yeah pretty sure there's nothing out there in a rear 19-in off road tire that would fit in those dropouts
Did you make any modifications to the seat or the frame to mount the seat?
The seat is from CAB motorworks, and it looks as if they just stopped selling them as separate items from their bikes. But yes I had to drill new holes in the frame for the mounts.
@@JoshStreetDesign Thank you very much for the information. I really like your bike. good luck. stay safe.
@@fernandobautista9079 thanks man I'm actually making a video right now of my ride today where I was really hauling through the trees
@@JoshStreetDesign I watch your videos over and over again. in a short time I will have my bike ready and I am already looking for some places here in Connecticut to ride.
Is your battery BMS has same Amp as controller? If not that is the problem you can damage your batteries
Yes both batteries are 72 volt.
@@JoshStreetDesign Josh voltage is one thing make sure BMS and motor controller has same Amps
@@shavkat84 they don't have to be the same amperage. A batteries bms will only allow a certain amount of amps to flow no matter what the controller is asking for.
@@JoshStreetDesign in my case 80amp controller and 50amp bms in full throttle i was getting messages, something like power protection , until i installed new bms with 100amp
@@shavkat84 oh no I never get any errors like that
which seller off alibaba by the way , are leili reputable or boeneng any ideas?
Use nb power
Where did u get the sabv 200amp unlocked controller frrom im tryint to look for one
It turned out it wasn't unlocked they lied to me. : (
@@JoshStreetDesign where did u get this from. Also i cant see a unlocked version anywhere of 200a. But i seen a controller thats called the asi bac 4000 that can throw like 50kw but that could prob cook ur motor lol but i cant find it anywhere
EDIT: also i have another question. Where did u get all ur parts from like what website... alibaba?
Sorry if im bothering u
@@everythinginsearchsearch9393 look in the description of the video you can see all my stuff in detail. And by the way the ASI 4000 is nowhere near capable of putting out 50 KW
@@JoshStreetDesign oh okay ty lol
Also yeah ik im just saying its powerful as hell is what i mean lol
That sucks. Who can you trust anymore ? People don't realize how hard it is to make or modify e-bikes. When you order stuff it comes with, either no instructions, missing parts, or instructions that are useless. Connectors don't match, the color coding of the wires don't match... It's a nightmare. I appreciate this video because it's honest. Don't give up. Learn from the experience and don't be fooled again. It's expensive to learn from the pitfalls, but over time you will make it work and you can still use the parts for other projects. It's not a total loss.
What type of battery is installed? What chemistry?
2 batteries. Primary is 49ah, 18650 Panasonic BD. 150amp Max. Secondary is lG 10ah running in parallel at 72 volt.
@@JoshStreetDesign well the cells are pretty good and with your 20p 72v configuration, according to datasheet it can hold the current up to 200A +-continious and even 300A peak.
It is strange that the voltage drop is so big.
Would be interesting to connect to BMS via Bluetooth and check out what's going there under load
@@nikita-shamrai my battery is BMS limited to 150 amps. I guess I could take the thing apart and bypass that but I'm really not interested in that as it could possibly destroy the battery long-term
@@JoshStreetDesign maybe it is because of the second battery in parallel wich can't hold that loads if you are using both batteries at the same time
@@JoshStreetDesign yes. High current is not very healthy for battery... I use AntBMS with Bluetooth to control every parameter of my battery. It works super stable and I think it is the must have device for any powerful battery, so I recommend it (maybe on future battery)
Where Did you get that seat and fender?
I got the seat from cab motorworks and the rear fender on the seat is the extended size fender for the sur ron
Have you tried putting it on a thick motorycle rim.. I got the Qs205 8kw
As stated in the video the tire is on a 1.85-in x 18 motorcycle rim. Very thick. : ). And by the way the 205 is not an 8kw motor it is only a 3 KW motor those are fake stats used to promote extra sales.
@@JoshStreetDesign its 8kw my batteries are pulling 19kw at 96v and yeah bike tires can be a little tough but I meant try putting them on a 3.5-5 inch rim thats what I'm using
205 does come in 8kw in version 4, its a 17 inch wheel and does about 156tops @ 96v with an ASI controller and the caps swapped out inside to handle 96v
205 is rim to tire motor 273, is bicycle spoke motor, the bicycle go to 15kw tops ive seen and 205 goes up to 20kw. Ive been building for 10 years now I have mountains style and Electric motorcycle style builds
Hey do you have that wheel motor that didn't work out for you that you got from alibaba, if so would you be interested in selling it?
I sold it like immediately, lol
who did you get the motor from?
NB Power on Alibaba. Use Raina, she gives the best deals.
Your battery cannot catch up with your controller. Your controller sucking up that much current making your voltage sag to much. Change your controller settings on max battery current and increase your phase current alittle. The controller capacitor will adjust for it, but your controller for sure will heat up.
Yeah I tried that, dialed them wayyyy back, but it made no difference at any setting. The phase is maxed out at 450 and 550 protect. I think it was just a controller display mismatch...although I can't be positive. Think I'm gonna just switch back to old controller for peace of mind. If I ever get a new battery I might try it again.
Will the bigger tire fit on the stock rim?
You need a 1.85 rim
Can I buy that locked up speed controller from you buddy?
Sorry man, sold it a while back.
Just asked because it’s not locked it’s fully programmable via laptop or any PC
@@Wheelieking619 no is wasnt, I tried that with 3 different programs via the laptop. No matter what I did everything was still greyed out
Junk battery is your cause for voltage drop.
Which one is faster 3.5t r 5t
3.5t of course, by about 20mph
what size is the kickstand?
I don't know size, but it's large and adjustable. It's the EEB electric bike kickstand from AliExpress
@@JoshStreetDesign thanks
Hi, ANY chance of naming the company that tucked you up so that i and others following can AVOID making the same mistake by using them. China seems to be living up to its reputation.
battery not big enough for those extra 50 amps.
Why not just mount the controller on the underbelly..? saves a ton of space
EDIT: Watched the entire video. Maaaaan that's alot of work and alot of cutting of the frame that could've been avoided by just placing the controller outside.
You didn't have to cut a giant hole just to fit the hall sensor connector but instead just solder it directly to the controller or get a smaller Bafang 5 pin waterproof connector.
Yeah but I totally hate the way the controller looks on the outside of the bike, not to mention I didn't want those wires hanging out there because there's really no proper way to cover them fully. besides if you saw my other video you would know that I have a secondary battery in the controller box below the bike which fits in there perfectly so I wouldn't be able to put the controller out there even if I wanted to.
What size adapter did you need for the front brakes. I’m ordering the same forks with 220mm disc.
It's a 203 to 220 adapter, I think hope sells them
Yo josh what are you doing with old motor and wheel? I'm trying to upgrade to motorcycle wheels I have mountain bike wheels (26"). You interested in selling?
Hey man possibly depends on how much I like this 5T.
I'll let you know after I do this second video
@@JoshStreetDesign alright bro good luck with the build, I'll be watching from San Diego.🤙
how many miles are u getting on average
Offroad in sand, like in the 20s. I'm heavy. When my son rides it on the road he could probably get like 40 miles
@@JoshStreetDesign thank man for the information and one more question can we put 18 inch 2.15 rim
@@justbikesanvesh9549 no on this frame you would need a 1.85 rim for 18 in
@@JoshStreetDesign once again thanks man
and one more question should i go wit 205 or 273 i want only 5t please suggest me and can u tell me how many miles can i get for both motors
@@justbikesanvesh9549 definitely go with the 273, it has more torque than the 205. Contact NB Power and ask for Raina Yu, tell her I referred you and you're looking for the 18-in cross laced wheel with a 273 motor
Does the double rear shock?
Does it what?
@@JoshStreetDesign whoops... does the double rear shock work? I recently went to a fox shock with a heavier spring? Smooth out the rear end with that big motor
@@ThePathfinders0369 it definitely works. I was getting too much sag with a single shock so that's why I went double and then set the settings on the lowest levels
@@JoshStreetDesign thanks!!
@@ThePathfinders0369 no problem. Shooting part 2 tomorrow
hello, what is the name of the company?
What company?
@@JoshStreetDesign of this bike on alibaba
@@HeroSo I built it, most of the parts are custom all put together from all different places.
@@JoshStreetDesign ah ok, do you know the "maikale" company on alibaba? is it reliable?
@@HeroSo if you're going to use Alibaba for a complete bike go with NB power, they are the cheapest. You want to keep refreshing the screen until you get Raina as your contact. For some reason she gives lower prices than everybody else. She's who I used to buy my motors
Wait a minute ….do you know what “double sheared” means? You auta weld tabs on if you wanna run excessive weight or a spare shock. I can talk or write all this shit because I have the same frame.
In one of my more recent videos we had to weld up this frame more from where it started coming apart.
I'm using Paypal so if I don't get what is promised paypal said they will refund my money for sure,..so there is no risk of getting screwed,...which is what I was waiting for since last year,.is for paypal to be excepted by Chinese companies !!!
not the controller or motor... your battery is not upto the task...
Agreed up to a point, since I'm running two batteries I should have theoretically gotten a boost of up to 190 amps instead of the 150.
@@JoshStreetDesign true... If you can , try using 90c lipo... even in a smaller pack just to see the difference in lag... I am not running such a large heavy bike, but I know that the difference for me between high c rated lipo and low c rated batts all piled up...
@@Simplyflyit you added a lipo pack in parralel to an 18650 pack?
@@JoshStreetDesign no, I don't use 18650 at all... I use Lipo's in series, however, perhaps for your application you could use a capacitor to deliver the surge ?
@@Simplyflyit oh gotcha. Yeah I would love to switch over to a lipo series pack, but the level I would need would cost me over 2k, and lately I've been dumping the spare cash into my dirt bike. Maybe down the road.
I just paid someone to do mine
I got new expensive custom wheels for my rmz250 and I'm def having a pro mount those, don't want those rims scratched.
@@JoshStreetDesign that was my issue. I was going scrath the powdercoated rims. The moto rims are a bitch. You really need a machine. I just hate paying the cost to have them mounted.
Sub. 👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏😎
Which company screwed you,..so I don't make the same choice,.haha,..you know what I mean ?
Why do people think mid hub is better 😂
It actually is better for street riding and just cruising q
@@JoshStreetDesign and off road
@@thomassiegers3007 no it's not better for off-road mid drive much better for off-road
@@JoshStreetDesign how
@@thomassiegers3007 how what?
Yeah not the right motor for dirt riding IMO.
Fair enough... No it's not like my suzuki rmz... But bring your electric bike to where I ride and we'll have a little race see how it goes... Think you'd be surprised. : )
@@JoshStreetDesign ok bro you know what your talking about I ride too 😁👍👍💯
Also sabvoton are garbage try ASI controller much more compact much more power reliabitilty, ive blown numerous controllers and the sabvorons never lasted more than 3 sessions
I don't know man I've put my sabvoton through hell and it's been performing perfectly
@@JoshStreetDesign yeah I loved how smooth they were but they never lasted in my builds always had problem with the halls acting up would start and go great cone to a stop and bike wouldn't go again, your using the 72v system, i was using the svmc 96120 pretty good amperage right now I'm running the BAC4000 by ASI and I opened it and soldered different caps in theyre im not about to buy another battery so I'm stuck 96v 120Ah
@@chrisdenault8660 that's nothing to sneeze at though. I don't know if you saw part two of this video but with the 5t motor I'm running now this thing has awesome low end torque for the woods riding I do. It's a blast to ride
You lie
About what? Lol
Sir, can you clear my query that which controller I should choose sine wave or square wave .... Which is better?
Sine wave of course. Smoother throttle ramp up and silent.
@@JoshStreetDesign thanks sir .