I have a 2020 Tacoma and when I clean my engine bay, I don’t use any water at all. I use Chemical Guys “Nonsense” (no water) all purpose cleaner. I spray the cleaner in a small area, clean with a small horse hair brush and then wipe it down with a microfiber towel. Doing it this way takes more time but in the end, I have a clean engine bay without the risk of any water damage whatsoever.
As a pro detailer try switching from the chemical guys to bilthamber surfax HD, huge difference and much cheaper in long run also I recommend bilthamber atom mac for your under body of the Tacoma
@pilgrim985 chemical guys spend most of their money on advertising and fancy bottle but most of their product are sold at ready to use strength where other company products can be dulated and some are like 100 :1 or more with companies like bilthamber, koche, wolf gang and more , chemical guy are more for those who get attracted to the fancy bottles
@@rdeh1678may I ask if this Bilt Hamber Touchless Surfax HD is able to remove grime and grease from surfaces, and won’t damage plastic and wire covers?
@ejshelby5460 that's correct it is non caustic , and safe , they also have a amazing prewash that is sugar based and lifts dirt like no other snow foam has ever done basically cleans the car without touching it crazy . Surfax HD is a great A.P.C , while touchless is a ph12 snowfoam prewash , for rusty cars they have atom mac
Detailers, especially on TH-cam, love to deep clean engine bays because they’re always so dirty and show a huge difference when cleaned. They pressure wash rinse, soak it in foam degreaser then hit it with another pressure wash. My gut instinct was that it was excessive especially in newer cars with so many sensitive electrical parts/connections, thank you for making this video Ahmed.
No, you forgot the MOST IMPORTANT STEP.. the last step.. which is to REMOVE THE WATER after the second pressure wash, preferably using an air compressor because they're the strongest, every single connector they see will dry up completely after just a second or two with that amount of concentrated air. I almost exclusively follow AmmoNYC and every single time he dries the entire engine compartment, using microfiber cloths and compressed air.
I always have the car running when I do a quick clean. Pressure on low and at a distance will clean it real quick and never had a problem. I do it about once a year maybe every other year
Just have common sense. Remember that water is an electrical conductor ang can cause short circuits. Also water causes corrosion and oxidation...i just brush off or blow up dust with s compressor and wipe damp microfiber cloth on the engine.
Great video as always I wash my engine couple times a year. I’m in salt country. I regularly spray silicone spray on my wires and I also use silicone paste on and around connectors to keep water off and keeps wires soft and copper wires from going green. Friend of mine bought tundra same time I did and his wires started to turn green while mine stayed copper. Been doing this since 1983.
I live in Finland. Lots of salt on the road. Have an opel astra (more or less a Chevy Cruze) and don’t think I ever ever cleaned it except for making sure it doesn’t get dirty between the poles of the battery. Haven’t had any electrical problems at all
@@alfonso1843 If you live in Salt country I highly recommend you look into a product made by Bilthamber called Atom Mac , it's a water borne migratory and contact corrosion inhibitor , and Bilthamber Dynax s50 , you spray it into voids and cavities on your truck ,example the plugs in the bottom of your truck doors you just pop one off and spray .
This video gives me vibes of a physician or dentist who is realistic and caring. Nothing alarming. Just explains general info and why we do the things we do. Nice video!
Another informative video dripping with common sense. As a pro bike mechanic we faced similar cleaning issues with getting water into bearings (hubs, headsets, bottom brackets), the trick is to use dawn dish soap, soft sponge and a very light spray. I finish drying bike with a leaf blower front the front and back (preventing water entry into bearings and frame).
water in engine bay, motorcycle, bike, is all madness. just wipe it off. minus engine bay, that one needs nothing. leave your esthetics for visible parts.
Something worth remembering from the carpentry trade: water will travel upwards between two surfaces - against gravity. If I remember correctly it was referred to as the "phenonemon of capillary action". We had to know this when making casement windows to determine the gap between the sash and frame, and then create an anti-capillary groove. They were referred to as anti-capillary grooves on the drawings that went back decades and decades. So different from 'drips'. So the point being that when AMD says water will find its way into areas, this is how I expect it will do it. If water finds a way with wood, then I expect it will have an easier time with metal and plastic. The last mobile mechanic I employed just left the hood open in the slashing rain, and I never went back to him. Shows how rare a mechanic AMD is that he brings this up. Greatly appreciate the videos as always.
No that's not what it is. I think you're referring to is water being absorbed by wood. What I'm refering to is two non-permeable surfaces (such as glass or painted wood) that are barely touching each other. So if you've got a electrical plug facing upwards into the socket, the water will find its way between the two and it wont drop down with gravity. Or with electrical wire it will go horizontally before it goes straight down if the wire is horizontal for example. That's why a traditional window should have a groove between the sash and the frame, because it should only have a penny gap (1/16" or so) after its been painted. But nobody ever did it, and typically they didn't have a penny gap so it didn't always matter. @@jahmanborneo1343
@@jahmanborneo1343 Not being a dick, materials don't matter, it's a combination of liquid surface tension and the adhesive forces in play. Basic understanding of capillary action...
Mr. Car Care Nut, you are a big blessing to car owners. I have always resisted the idea of taking my car for an engine bay wash and I am glad I have never done it. The advices I have received from a few local mechanics have been misleading, one of them even told me that I could wash the engine bay under pressure when the engine is running! I remained skeptical of that advice and am glad I watched this video before attempting any cleaning methods. When it comes to maintainance of my V6 toyota Mr. Car Care Nut's advice becomes cardinal rules. Thank you Mr. Car Care Nut for always educating us on how to maintain our cars. May God bless you abundantly.
I used to work in a garage but as a car painter, the mechanics always told us to let the engine run if it was a diesel while washing it and not spray directly on certain parts it was almost a decade ago and only did it once or twice but I think the reason is that if you didn't the engine might not want to start after and maybe because if there's some water that goes where it shouldn't the heat will dry it.
One thing I do is just use a swiffer wand every few months to remove dust in my relatively clean engine bay. It is pretty good at reaching into crevices or hard to reach places. So far I haven’t needed to use any liquids to clean it since I bought the vehicle 4 years ago.
Thanks for clarifying this! I always see detailers using a pressure washer on the engine bay and they always say how safe it is! The problem is that they are NOT mechanics and the damage they MAY do wont necessarily be seen for many years. Wash by hand, and take your time...
While it may seem fast to just rinse down everything with pressure washer, in reality, it takes more time to dry everything. I learned over the years to just use a leaf blower once a month and a simple wipe down with a slightly damp shop towel if necessary. Truth be said, when the plastic covers are clean, that already satisfies each one's itch. At the end of the day, no one is going to look at your engine bay everyday.
It was not that big of a deal before fuel injection and a tone of electric parts. We always pressure washed our engine while running but right after wiper it down. Cars didn’t last nearly as long as they do now. In New England we always had to replace wires but they where a-lot simpler
@@christopherjoyce9788 Right, older cars really didn't have many electronics at all, and a little water wouldn't hurt a cast iron engine with good ol' carbs! I miss my 78 Cutlass! 😆
One time I went to a Toyota dealership to pick up some parts and I’ve seen their mobile detailing staff members power washing engine bays in pre owned trade-in cars so I assumed that it was safe enough to spray engine but not the electrical components. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and mechanical knowledge with us 👍.
The dealerships usually contract 3rd party detailers to do their jobs. The detailer will charge a certain amount like $500 for example & the dealership charges the customer $1100.
@@goldentrichomeshydro4260detailers will often clean out the door jambs using a pressure washer. They use a low angle tip to limit the amount of water getting into the interior.
@balabay77 Worked for Toyota in the early 90's which i jet washed Toyota engines & the area manager caught me TWICE! He did warn me the first time. Never had any issues,i didn't go overboard jetting it,i just made sure the chemical was pretty strong but not overly strong/powerful....a decent scrub prior to jetting is what i did.no comebacks thou..
I’ll use some simple green/purple power, rinse with wide spray of water, then compressed air. I’ve never had an issue, but I generally only do this annually. Engine bay looks clean helping to spot any leaks. I’ve seen many cars where it’s so dirty, you can’t even read brake/washer fluid levels.
We detail in our automotive shop after a car after a repair that involved an oil leak. We dilute Purple power with water and a brush to agitate the oily grime. We follow with compressed air and a wipe down. I apply tire shine on the plastic and then a wipe down to remove the extra residue. We avoid alternators and ECM/PCM. It can take 1-2 hours but we want to the customer to notice the difference in the finished product. We send them BEFORE and AFTER photos of all of our repairs
@@jamram9924 I'm a bit late to the video... only a few minutes in... but was hoping this would be addressed. I need to do some de-greasing and cleaning on my high mileage car to help see if I have an oil or other fluid leak. (Both now and preventative in the future)
@@fricky172 sometimes I’ll use a pump bottle with very hot water and degreaser. I apply it directly to the areas where the oil is present. If the oil turned into greasy dirt, you may find yourself using a stiff wire brush or putty knife to remove the thick encrusted oily dirt. I’ll use a power washer in areas like the engine block, transmission and engine oil pan to do a final wash and rinse.
@@robertruge2916 The alternator in my vehicle is original, 13 years old, no issue yet. You just have to be careful with what you're doing and where/how you spray. I've never covered anything.
Nice to present a clean engine bay to a mechanic because the mechanic will appreciate you providing a clean engine to work on and it also shows that you have some respect to the person working on your car. That in turn is more likely to give you a mechanic that is happier to work on your car.
totally agree with you, i just spray a towel with a general cleaner(quick detail spray) and wipe everything down, works great and zero water so no worries.
I’ll clean the engine bay maybe once a year but more importantly, I replace fasteners that are starting to rust. Good information here as always. The engine bay gets dusty and dirty very quickly so I just hand clean with a hand pump sprayer. I like Oil Eater spray. Doesn’t affect metals or plastics. 1:2 dilution. Distllled water.
I suggest using fluid film with a applicator every season. Eventually it builds up thick and you just have to touch up once in a while. People think it’s just for underneath but you can spray it anywhere and all over anything. It stops rust and makes the plastic shiny.
I do the same with fasteners! I replace any that are starting to rust. I also keep the peppermint cans fastened in the engine bay also….They keep the mice, rats and squirrels from Chewing wires. The peppermint works great.
@@ADUSN The coating just boils off areas that get hot. The problem is when you have a lot of oil dripping out the valve covers right onto the exhaust while the car is driving up a hill with high EGTs. That’s when it becomes a fire hazard and the oil combusts.
@@ADUSN Oil temps reach 250f max? Set your oven at that temp and put a pan full of thin cooking oil in there. It will not catch on fire, it just boils off. Same thing here.
I'm a huge fan! I'm 71 and like to be as hands-on as possible in life. I have 2024 Camry Hybrid. May I suggest doing a video where you suggest/instruct non-car people - those of us who can't get underneath their cars - how to do the simpler tasks?
I always use diesel as a degreaser, do cover fuse box, battery and alternator with a grocery bag and on a spray washer I never push actual trigger for more pressure, just spray it off, keep hood open for a good 15 minutes, carefully wipe out the area with microfiber towel, lastly I use 303 plastic / rubber protector spray as a detailing. I drive my car as delivery as well as for personal use about 35K a year, any weather, keep engine bay clean is a must for me.... Great vid, thanks for sharing 👍
Some vehicles are designed/built better than others in terms of keeping stuff out of the engine bay, so it doesn't get dirty/soiled much in the first place at all. My 2022 CX-30 is almost 2 years old now & the engine bay still looks brand new minus a very light coat of dust that I finally wiped off last month without much effort. The Corolla Cross (& regular Corolla) has two giant/open hood gaps above the headlights from the factory with no seal & which allows all sorts of rain/water, dirt, grime & debris into the engine bay. My friend's one year old Corolla Cross looks super dirty/grimy already inside the engine bay & my 2020 Corolla sedan had the same issue. Not sure what Toyota was thinking (other than cutting costs) with those large hood gaps & no seals/weather-liners for U.S. version models on these vehicles (some other global markets did receive the seals/weather-stripping in those areas). Tacky, tacky - and makes you wonder where else they cut little corners to increase profits.
I’m not surprised some people don’t even have common sense after showing you the WHY and still going against it because they been doing it there way for 50 years,lol. Thank you AMD for this and all your videos, long time subscriber here.I have learned to do my own maintenance on my car because of you and can’t thank you enough. I’m no means A mechanic but have learned so much through your videos. I just purchased new Toyota and now know how to keep engine clean. Keep up the good work and god bless you too.
I clean the engines in my cars by mixing real warm water and dawn dish soap. I take a towel soak it in the solution and wring it out. Wipe all the surfaces and keep repeating. You do this once.a week and it takes all of 5 to 10 minutes and your engine bay stays pristine. Just like you suggest I too use detailer to finish. Great video because some people do think that hosing the whole engine bay with a hose is the way to go.
I am very conscious of my 4Runner’s condition, and first use a very soft dust pan brush to get most of the dust off my engine components, and then move on to other means as necessary. Works great! Thx so much for your great videos, and for your spiritual sign off 😊
Old time retired technician here. For degreasing, I have used Gunk for years it works great. For engine blocks, firewalls, engine bay, fender liners, oil pans, etc. never use it on sensitive items like starters, alternators, electrical components, etc. Gently hose it off with moderate pressure. Just be ready to safely contain all the yuck that hits the floor, don’t wash it down the drain. Professionally you can get fined so charge according. 😮
Amazing advice that should be taken seriously! Thank you very much for all your advice. The problem is that the people who need it the most don't listen to channels like this one, "which is the best."
I sent an appointment request for my 2017 Tacoma to be serviced by TCCN Automotive after it comes out of Winter storage here in NY. Only the best will do for me! No matter how far it is!
@@efil4kizumGreat bro! At least you know at Ahmed’s place it’ll be done right! I’m already set to make the 11 1/2 hour drive from NY to TCCN in mid April. Meli is going to get back to me with an exact date. Now I can sleep at night knowing the dealer won’t be touching my truck! 😂😂😂
I was going to suggest using a car detailer on the engine bay lol. You can also clean the underside of the hood and clean all the seals. keeping the seals clean around the hood I have found through the years really helps keep the engine bay clean.
I just got my oil leaks fixed after leaking oil forever. My engine FEELS like a fire hazard. So I bought a dual function pressure washer sweeper to clean the under carriage. I found this video while searching how to clean it. THANK YOU from the perspective of the guy that has to FIX the damage. I will cover up my connectors and clean everything cold. All other videos from others said to spray the brake cleaner on oil "stains" on a hot engine.
As always, thank you for your expert car knowledge and warning to NEVER pressure wash under the hood. I once ruined an engine by pressure washing. I pressure washed and blew the fuse on the engine fan. The electric fan was shorted out and failed to come on in the Summer heat. Overheated the engine, warped the head, and that was the end of a good engine.
I’ve never used water inside my engine compartments. I’ve used either windex or simple green. They are both great cleaners and degreasers without fuss. With all of the electronics and connectors, you have to be conscious of your cleaning methods. His points are well headed.
The newest vehicle I've owned as far as cleaning the engine was my 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada and after I cover the Throttle Body with a plastic bag I used a Engine cleaner I'd buy from Costco,that stuff is so strong it would even remove paint.It said not to daloot it but I would deloot it anyway,half water half cleaner and it would still take grease off completely.But I never had the problem with my Alternator not working after I'd sprayed the engine off with the garden hose and it was in very wide spray mode.But now I drive a,"2010 Toyota 4 Runner Limited", and after watching your EXCELLENT VIDEO, I've got 2nd thoughts on cleaning the engine off, there's alot more electronics under the hood which has a "4.0L V6 ENGINE"and it's AWD AND 4X4,BOTH !
Light pressure/mist on cold engine. Simple Green full strength on grease and oil. Let dwell an hour or two. Drive car after to evaporate water. Once you get a good base clean. The lightest mist to knock dust off is all you need.
Every detailer who does Engine bays should watch this video. I used to detail cars ,trucks vans etc. I always did the engine bays. I was very fortunate that as far as know had someone come back to me with a problem with their engine after I did an engine detail. I never pressure washed the engine as tempting as that might be . I never covered the alternator or disconnected the battery which on some cars can give you a mess of problems. I had one customer tell me do not clean the engine bay. He wasn't a mechanic or was he all that mechanical, but he did understand about water and electrical or electronic problems. I like the wipe down method with a towel. I also like to use a product called Trim shine made by Stoner. it is a solvent based spray that makes all the hoses ,plastic panels look like new !
I’ve had great results using a cheap, low powered electric pressure washer, like the $70 harbor freight one. I spray with a dollar store degreaser like Totally Awesome. I large paint brush to loosen the dirt. Then rinse with the pressure washer. I start in the morning and I leave the hood open all day and night. Perfect every time and never a problem. 2018 Camry 2.5
The thing with a pressure washer is to stand back from the car when spraying the engine. I believe people have issues because they are spraying there engines standing right next to them and they probably don’t keep the water moving that’s important to. I stand a good 2 to 3 feet back from my car when spraying the engine and I keep the water moving in a zig zag motion. I don’t just stand there with the pressure washer and spray one area.
This is gold. I will not be offering engine “detailing” as a service and honestly, I think it will win them over when I explain why using the information you provided. Thank you for this informative video.
I've cleaned a couple thousand cars, and honestly, just a 20-30 second power wash (avoiding alternator and connectors), dry it up, then spray a water-based interior dressing and the customer will be very happy. And it'll take less than 10 minutes.
Thanks, excellent info. Working with electronin equipment since the early '70s, MANY intermittent problems were caused by connectors. We old timers could go to the coin op car wash and spend 25 cents on a shiny engine. Those days are long gone. Compressed air is your friend.
Bought my 2016 sienna new. Just rolled 130k miles. I do most maintenance myself. Oil changes every 5k miles (factory filter). Never had an issue. Also have never washed my engine bay :)
I have a 1992 Chrysler and have always kept a clean engine. After a service at my mx provider I'll always get a "thank you" for my efforts and I think one gets a bit better service when the tech works on a clean engine. The car has 196K on the clock. Decades ago I started using WD40 as my cleaning/protecting agent, mainly because the car was my daily driver and I lived in Chicago where fighting rust is a battle that never ends. These days I generally deep clean the engine bay once annually: I cover the distributor with a plastic bag, spray the engine liberally with "Super Soap" (which comes out of the spray wand at very low pressure) and let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse with the Spot-Free water rinse (which is also low pressure). After getting the car home I'll do a very light spray of WD40 to areas I can access and then wipe down all exposed surfaces. I've read commenters cautions about the evils of WD40 but for me in this application it does just fine- no problems with belts or hoses and so on. I also think the silicone is beneficial to the plastics and aging plastic that's getting brittle is the bane of any older automobiles. After seeing this video I will start bagging the alternator as well, but my attitude has always been that car engines are designed to operate when wet from road spray, so a light rinse won't destroy an engine's operation.
Its a good thing friend, your car is pre OBD2 ,PRE ECU everywhere trying these on newer car is not as easy.Modern cars are engineered to fail after X years plain n simple.
I used the same technique on a 2012 Sentra I bought new and had no issues until 169K when the CVT failed. But I suspect the xsmn failure wasn't related to my use of WD40. On the Sentra I did bag the ECM before and cleaning, though. I agree with your comment that modern cars are built to crumble in 10 years or fewer.@@drincogni
Excellent advice! Clean your engine compartment exactly the way he showed us and if anything malfunctions you will have a clean conscience knowing you didn’t cause any problems. Clean the exterior and interior too your heart’s content but if it ain’t broke don’t fix it! Leave the car hood closed!!!
I just wipe things off with shop towels type paper towels. I use armor all cleaner but that's obviously not the only one that one can use... A damp (water) paint brush cleans areas that are hard to get at. Good demo.
I use a steam cleaner, soft detailers brush and mild soap, and a low shine finishing product on all the plastic and rubber parts. Works great in all the nooks and crannies with low risk of water damage.
by the way, a powerful leaf blower can also be useful for blowing the engine bay clean. I also do that after a car wash to get rid of water that got in from the edge of the bonnet. (OCD at work)
great info, i've been doing engine washes for a long time, i've made alot of mistakes in the beginning, call me crazy - but now i don't cover anything, i avoid direct spray on specific areas and i air dry everything afterwards along with water dispersing aerosols. never use a regular hose (too much water), always use a low pressure washer, let the overspray clean the sensitive parts.
Great video. Not cleaning a hot engine is a good tip. Sealed areas will create a vacuum when cooled and suck water in. Anyone familiar with canning will know what I mean. One thing not mentioned in this video is how to clean the hood insulation. I never had a problem with cleaning it. I dribble water through it like a giant tea bag till the water flows out clean. Let all the water drain out before closing the hood. The fibers in the insulation don't hold water themselves so it will dry pretty fast. Don't close the hood right after getting the insulation wet because it's weight will cause it to sag.
Re: " Not cleaning a hot engine is a good tip" This is BS. Driving through a large puddle with a hot engine is no different. The exhaust manifolds, heads, etc will be soaked.
@@MikeS-n2ithere is a difference between a puddle and drenching your engine block with cold tap water. I warped my 2021 Tacoma rotors from aggressive driving then blowing through a small stream multiple times.
Good advice. However I have washed my truck engine atleast 20 times with a power washer and engine degreaser. 2001 tacoma. Had it for 23 years and runs strong.
Of course it nice to see when your mechanic cleaned your engine bay little bit. He had to replace some part , but he also cleaned, so for me this means that he cares. I live in Germany , and I have visited many shops with my previous German car , and no one ever cleaned anything.
I find that keeping an engine bay and really all exterior parts of the car fairly clean isn't just about esthetics, but also rust prevention, and because it makes working on the car and figuring out what's wrong with it easier and simpler, and more pleasant. No need to go crazy but once or twice a year, like spring and fall, isn't such a bad idea, so long as you're careful. You can spot leaks, cracks, frayed wires, etc., much easier if things aren't coated in dust, grime, crud and so on. But yeah, it also looks nicer.
I cleaned the engine bay of a 98 camry a few years ago. I use a garden hose, some degreaser in a few areas and some car soap in a few others and did a general cleaning and rinsing withbthe garden hose. I used a leaf blower to dry the eengine bay out some and then left the car with the hood open for a few hours on a nice summer day to dry. I didnt have any issues with anything after that or the entire time I owned the car. I just avoided the alternator when cleaning and removed the battery before I started my cleaning. A lot of cleaning an engine bay is just use common sense and be nice with things, dont go overboard with anything.
My intuition has never allowed me to spray down an engine bay with water. It just never made sense to me. Using an all purpose cleaner (APC) and/or a detailer/trim dressing with a microfiber towel gives me all I need. I do it maybe 3 times a year MAX. As you said, staying on top of the build up of dust goes a VERY long way.
You’re absolutely right about the cavity with the ignition coils. The first time I ever tried washing my an engine bay professionally. I was very careful and used low pressure water. I wrecked my ignition coils. My chevy sonic ectec engine has the coils on the very top of the engine sunken into a cavity and the day after I washed my engine bay one of the coils failed.
Thanks again for a great informative video. I've had my new to me 2022 Prius LE for three months now. Thankfully I've never spayed the engine bay with water. I used to spray down my old car's engine bay from time to time (a Kia Soul), but did it gently. But seeing you demonstrate how I should keep my already spotless Prius's engine bay clean confirmed my thoughts on this. Thanks again! Your channel is a top favorite of mine.
EXCELLENT video as usual. I usually use the same damp microfiber that I dry off exterior body, interior, door jambs, wheels and then the engine area. It’s super simple if you do it every time you wash the car. The dealership is always impressed, when I drop the car off for service.
I'm incredibly grateful for the info you shared! I've used a pressure washer twice on the engine bay of my 2018 Camry XSE V6 since I bought it. Maintenance washes involve wiping down and blowing dust away with compressed air, and so far, no issues at all!
In the early 90's I used a pennzoil product to clean my engine bay. Instructions said to warm it up 5 minutes, spray it on, and then spray it off with a hose. I did that on my 79 Accord. Aluminum heads. Hot engine plus cold water equals bad head gasket. Thanks pennzoil. Haven't bought anything with that name on it since. I wrench and I have gained knowledge over the years. Never again will I ever try to wash an engine bay. Not just because of the pennzoil lesson learned but also as stated in this video, electrical has become more and more dominant over time. If I ever clean anything due to spillage like changing a power steering pump, I simply use brake cleaner to knock it all down. Dries fast and won't smoke as whatever I spilled is cleaned up.
Thank you for your video... I have washed hundreds of vehicles of all types, sizes, etc., with my gas powered power washer, and never, ever, hurt any of them... These are regular clients who see me annually/bi-annually, etc., and they love to see their engine compartment all cleaned and treated with a product that makes all the black plastic and rubber hoses look new again... I DO use a professional blower to dry as much after I wash and rinse, and then leave the vehicle with the hood up outside for a few hours to insure it's going to be as dry as possible... My pressure washer is Not a huge 3-4+ gph monster, and I use the widest Fan Tip on the end of it.. I use common sense and Look at what I am going to be spraying on the cleaner first, and then rinsing it all off, and of course, do Not spray into electronic parts, like the alternator, etc... I also like to sometimes, when the front of the engine compartment is especially dirty, etc., to of course, after spraying a cleaner there, come back and spray it all out from the inside of the compartment Out, through the grill, etc., and get as many of those pesky bugs, etc., out at the same time.. One just has to pay really great attention, and Look at what's in there, and avoid things that may house electronic boards, etc., in them, and Manage your spray tip to not hit them and get water inside them... The Only vehicle I will Never used this on is all Ferrari cars, which have a Lot of connectors that are not always water tight.. :)
I spray the engine bay with water after every snow fall and the road is dry to get rid of the accumulated salt while the engine is cold. So far, never had an issue with connectors.
Great video. I use to detail cars and luckily never had any issues. Always used a degreaser and pressure washer at a distance. Let the degreaser do the work. But nowadays on my personal vehicles I just try to upkeep the cleanliness so it isn't a big deal. Thanks on the info on touchscreen infotainment systems. I didn't know they could be damaged with certain cleaners. Been using 409 but will definitely be getting touchscreen cleaners.
Very well done! I bought a 20 year old Mini Cooper that was in great shape. I did take it to a car wash where you have the option to power wash your engine. It was not that dirty so I passed. Very glad I did and like you said spray and wipe! Thank You...
Using pressure washer is exactly what Toyota HQ Japan is specified how it should be cleaned. There is a video about Toyota certified used car's engine bay clean up procedure (specified by Toyota HQ in Japan). "TOYOTA pay close attention to even used car's quality! with English subtitles"
I just cleaned my engine bay. I used a microfiber towel and did exactly what he's doing. I used amorall, w-40 and back to black. You can use Dawn liquid detergent as a degreaser it's pretty gentile on the plastics but still a good idea to wipe clean dry. Back to.black actually cleans and blackens old dull black plastics pretty well.
I do it once a year, to remove salt deposits. Just a smooth shower without any pressure being careful not to soak the alternator, and then drive for an hour on the highway to make sure everything is dry. No chemicals.
Thank you for the great, informative videos! I am a big Toyota and Honda fan. I operate a car wash and attempt to provide guidance to customers when i see them preparing to wash their engine bays. The water pressure at the exit of our pumps is 1450 psi! In bay, the water pressure at the tip is about 1300 psi, high enough to cut a finger off. We also use professional strength Dawn to degrease our bays. It works great and is not aggressive on paint.
outstanding video. i don't like putting any strong chemicals into my engine bay so i usually stay away from degreasers unless i really need them, then i make sure to give a good cleaup to make sure nothing is left behind when i'm done. i like using distilled water and dawn dishsoap mixed at about 0.5%-1% dawn to water ratio in a spray bottle for basic cleaning. the distilled water doesn't have any minerals or metals that can accelerate corrosion and the bit of dish soap acts as a very mild degreaser. i use a couple different-sized microfiber wands and a few different brushes to get into awkward areas and microfiber rags on the rest. hit the plastics with a ceramicoat designed for plastic lower body panels once every couple years to help resist dust and salt. silicone/dielectric paste for electrical connectors, wires and anything where particulate might settle and corrode or abrade. i deep clean once a year and give it a quick cleaning monthly when i check my fluids and do a visual for anything out of the ordinary. the microfiber wands have found leaks super early a couple times. they are normally pretty clean but if they come back with oil or something other than basic road grime and dust, it's time to start looking a little more seriously. i find having a written list of exactly what i need to do on my monthly checkups helps me actually check everything that needs to be checked and i get it done faster because i don't have to remember what to do, just check the list. i usually look up common failures for may make/model/year/region and add those to my checkup list. costs me half an hour once a month but it has saved me thousands.
On my older 1995 Dakota 5.2 Sport I use what I learned from a neighbor on his 5.0 mid production Mustang with it’s brand new looking engine bay. A hand spray down with Original 409 cleaner, wait ten minutes, then garden hose spray gun on spray setting. Because of all the connectors and deep spark plug tubes in my 2021 Tacoma Sport TRD I will be subscribing to your hand spray detailer micro fiber wipe down instead. Good video. Thanks.
I never use high pressure water to clean my ES350 engine compartment but rather I use a damp shop towel or rag (sometimes with a bit of 409 type cleaner on it) to wipe down the exposure surfaces when I am checking fluid levels etc or when things begin to get obviously dirty/dusty/grimy…and this practice keeps the engine bay clean enough for even this admittedly anal retentive/almost OCD clean nut (on my very first car…a 1962 VW Beetle…I would go as far as to clean the inside of my hub caps!).
I detailed my hybrid camry 2013 in march 2022, and sold it last november 2023. I used degreaser and a brush first, then a pressure washer to rinse, then a air blower to dry. Not once did I have any issues after this. Point is, be careful and don't hit blatantly obvious connectors etc, and make sure you dry EVERYTHING well afterwards.
I generally clean the engine bay once or twice in a year with a toothbrush and/or towels and depending on the surface, i use different solvents, I like the orange degreaser for the engine surface and tire shine on the plastics. I never use water. I have never had problems.
Do use WD40, i do mine 2x a year EVERYWHERE. Had a 2002 Yaris for 14yrs with no rust, the rear beam/bar was in great cond indeed unlike these Fiat 500's which fail it's MOT (Yearly inspection) when they're 8yrs old! My old Yaris only ever failed it's MOT (Yearly inspection) on wiper blades/windscreen wiper blades TWICE.
Back in the old days 60's - 70's you could pretty much power wash the entire engine/bay. Today, with all the complex electronic parts/connectors I wouldn't even consider that anymore. What I do is use clean dry/damp rags and for areas that are tight and small I use a screwdriver with a thin rag covering the tip...then probe around and do the best you can.
My shop teacher when I was in high school so many years ago now drove an older Ford F-150 with the 300 straight six. As long as you kept water out of the carburetor it really wouldn't hurt anything at all if you hosed out the engine bay. With all the electronics and computers on cars today I wouldn't even consider doing that.
A good common sense video. I have a question about all the rubber door seals. I clean them with just a damp cloth, but should we use a silicone spray or something to keep the rubbers supple and not dried out? Thanks.
For cheap, you can buy the silicone tire shine stuff, it works though you have to do it once a month if it's always pouring in your area. I recommend checking out 303 Aerospace protectant, it's made especially for the rubber / vinyl /leather / plastics against UV rays. Normally lasts 3-5 months when car sees rain. You can use this too on interior trims (dashboard, doors) and will leave a rejuvenated deep colored satin finish. If you liked the results, and want to keep using the stuff long-term, I highly suggest to look for the gallon version, it is way cheaper. Btw, you only need a few squirts on a towel to use for all the door rubber seals.
Thx for the tips. On the infotainment screen. What works for me is very light mist of distilled water and a microfiber cloth to "gently clean the screen" Never use Windex or any alcohol based cleaners on infotainment screens. I'm going to try the no rinse car was for my engine bay. I've always just wiped it down but l Like your suggestion and demonstration.
Great video! One thing to be very careful of is to not use any aggressive degreaser that is very alkaline (caustic) (or acidic, for that matter) on any metal, especially aluminum. I made the mistake of using an alkaline cleaner on the crankcase of an old BMW motorcycle, and the aluminum alloy started to corrode and flake off. Also, be very careful if tempted to use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust and dirt, or compressed air from a nozzle to blow dust off, as both can generate static electricity and can potentially damage expensive, delicate electronics.
@@user-3tf67bk46utake an ESD course this certainly doesn’t work you’ve gotten lucky. Need an esd approved vacuum/fan that is properly grounded. Plastic is non conductive it tribocharges and so yea grounding it will only remove charge from the exact spot you grounded it
@@user-3tf67bk46u ehhh idk in theory water is a polar molecule and does equalize some charge. Take a static shirt that sticks to your skin. Get it wet it’ll mostly solve that problem even after it dries. But keep in mind type of static that can shock electronics you can’t feel or notice. Generally best practices are way overkill but really depends on what electronics you’re near. They do have esd protection in all computer chips these days but they only save it up to a point. Your body is charged to thousands of volts on a 12v battery system. I’m saying probably helps but I don’t expect your methods to produce perfect results forever it seems risky to me. But if a shop is doing the same thing you are better than that by taking some preventative measures. Fans usually actually deionize the air. But I doubt any of us could afford an esd free vacuum they’re probably so specialized
I recently cleaned my engine bay. Turbo Subaru. Sprayed engine cleaner all over. Agitated with a brush and used the shower setting on my garden hose. Stayed away from the alternator and battery. Rinsed and repeated until it was clean. Used a blower to get rid of any standing water and let it dry for a couple of hours with the hood up. No issues. 👍🏾
Good Looking out Boss;! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and videos. Every time I’m going to do some things to my new Tacoma, I always say let’s see what the car care nut has to say about it. I have learned so much from you thanks 🙏 again!!
A common mistake a lot of detailers make is they chase that cleaning perfection and everything else goes out of the window. Deep scratch on paint? They buff it until it's not visible, but it also leaves you too little of a clear coat to protect the car for years to come. Same with engine bay detailing, splash everything with the cleaner, doesn't matter where it goes and they just cover the alternator and battery. Degreaser? Let's use it all over the engine bay including the plastic covers so it looks spotless clean, but how about durability of the plastic parts afterwards? Awesome video as usual AMD!
Nothing can be further from the truth. This is pretty common with wanna-be detailers or just new ones. Most of the old timers pretty much would just do a wipe down. For scratches, if you meet a detailer that will tell you scratch is so deep and starts talking to you about thickness of paint, then you know you're dealing with the right one.
Geeze my twenty year Solara has a dirty engine compartment. I wish you luck when you start working on it. I hate not having a warm place to park a car in winter. I cannot do any work on my cars when it is 22 degrees outside.
Thanks for another video with good tips. I have always only used a rag and water without a high-pressure washer. Did it regularly. Will never be a problem. Ps: Work on some older cars now and then, so that we with old cars feel a bit at home in the videos :) :) I have two that I watch the most. The car care nut and scotty kilmer. Lots of good tips.
Thank you, Ahmed. I should be more careful when the engine is hot, not to wash it with cold sprayer at the self serve drive through washes. It's so tempting to get it super clean like you said, "not necessary" and could damage components like the alternator. Much appreciated your video is really helpful. May the lord keep YOU and bless you. Have a nice day!
Been pressure washing engine bays in my vehicle for decades. Just be prudent with distance. I kept one truck for 15 years and had zero negative effects. Cant be just luck.
The only problem that had with video sir is that I have been cleaning the engine bay and the inside of my Highlander and my Tacoma for the past 3 1/2 hours after feeling guilty that they were so dirty. Seriously though, I appreciate the info on your channel. 😊
2018 Camry also. Early summer i use dish soap with a lot of water at low volume to remove salt. Then run the car to heat up the engine . Then wet towel to clean the top covers and painted areas. Works great .
That's funny, exactly what you recommended is what I've been using for years to keep my engine bays clean. I've been a detailer for a long time, and prefer to keep the engine bays clean on my own cars (most customers I've had didnt really care or ask about it, so I didnt bother). But on my own cars when I'm getting the engine bay clean for the first time, I use heavily diluted simple green, and instead of spraying directly on anything in the engine bay. I have a long bristle brush and give a light spray directly on the brush. I clean a section, then immediately wipe it clean. Now that my car's engine bay is fairly clean, I use some simple detail spray that I got in bulk, and wipe the dust off every year or so. I'll also use a very non oily tire shine that dry's good on rubber/plastic parts (obviously not everything) to keep them from cracking and drying out. I've seen so many videos over the years even from pretty well respected youtubers like chris fix that recommend using pressure washers/hoses on the engine bay. I've never... ever... EVER done this. People are so impatient, always looking for a "life hack" or a quick cheat to get results fast. The engine is an extremely complicated piece of machinery. Spend an afternoon, take your time, and be sure to not soak liquid anywhere where you think it shouldnt be.. just use some common sense, and be gentle around sensors/wires so you dont risk damaging them. Engine bays are built to handle light water spray from underneath the car, they arent made to handle gallons of water getting sprayed from the top down.
I had rat poop on my 2016 Honda Pilot engine cover, and removed the cover and washed it in my bathroom tube. I live in NYC, the Bronx, I guess I am going to charge them rent! LOL.
Rats in your engine compartment is no laughing matter. Many vehicles have wiring with an insulation material that rodents absolutely love to eat. This doesn’t just damage the wiring harness but also the electrical components and computer systems. I’ve seen repair bills for rodent damage exceed $5,000 in parts and labor
We have a 2020 Avalon and a 2021 Tundra, every time I go through the car wash I pull into the vacuum and detail area and use the microfiber towels to wipe down all the areas inside the door jambs, trunk lid, fuel door, hood and the entire engine compartment. By doing this every time it stays just like new without any cleaner of any kind.
Thanks for another great video. For a touch screen or any screen as a matter of fact (Laptop, tablet, phone, Camera lenses, etc) just make a simple solution of white vinegar and distilled water (9% distilled water and 1% white vinegar) it's clean all the screens very nicely without damaging it. I learned this hack from a professional photographer who cleaned his cameras and lenses with this solution. I have been using this for many years without any issues. Thanks
Simple green will also attack aluminum. I regularly clean my engines. It's really important over time, lets you identify where there might be leaks, and it's vitally important to clean dirt and dust off before you do any work opening the engine up to make sure zero dirt or dust can get in. If I have any problem areas I might resort to using a foaming degreaser if there is oily gunk. I use a garden hose (no pressure washer). Anymore I haven't had any concerns about spraying any part of the engine bay, all the important control modules are in water tight compartments. Dawn dish soap wirks well too. But here's what's really important: you have to make sure it all gets dried really well. I'll use compressed shop air and sunlight mostly, especially on the alternator, wiring connectors, spark plug wells, etc. I will typically give a squirt of WD-40 on wiring connectors and the alternator, but only lightly because while it's good for preventing corrosion, it attracts dirt. Bottom line for me is I'm not affraid of spraying garden hose water on anything in the engine compartment, but never a pressure washer. I will use a degreaser on problem areas, but I am sure to rinse it off well, and Dawn dish soap works well, but only when you can agitate and brush it, again rinses off well. NEVER use simple green on aluminum, but it can be safely used on everything else if you immediately rinse it off. And I make sure to dry everything very well after.
Another place to avoid cleaning with water is the distributor. This applies only to older cars of course (pre-2000s). Water under the distributor cap was a problem that could cause ignition failure. On flat engines the distributor was off to the side of the engine in closer proximity to the wheel well making it vulnerable to getting flooded if the car was driven too fast through flood waters.
I, once, saw a list of the Top Ten most un-trustworthy professions and it included the "why" for each one. Not surprisingly, auto-mechanics made that list. I am certain that, if names had been found there....yours would not make it to the list at all. You are convincing because you are such a professional----AND so trustworthy. I would imagine that you have a trail of customers who are so relieved to know that they chose you as their mechanic. I sure would be. Your videos are both educational and entertaining. Even if I see one that has nothing to do with any car-issue I have, I still watch them because you so seamlessly explain and demonstrate and I learn many new ideas. I always look forward to your next video.
I have a 2020 Tacoma and when I clean my engine bay, I don’t use any water at all. I use Chemical Guys “Nonsense” (no water) all purpose cleaner. I spray the cleaner in a small area, clean with a small horse hair brush and then wipe it down with a microfiber towel.
Doing it this way takes more time but in the end, I have a clean engine bay without the risk of any water damage whatsoever.
As a pro detailer try switching from the chemical guys to bilthamber surfax HD, huge difference and much cheaper in long run also I recommend bilthamber atom mac for your under body of the Tacoma
When I first started detailing, all I knew was Chemical Guys. Now I’m starting to branch out. I’ll look into your recommendation.
Thanks!
@pilgrim985 chemical guys spend most of their money on advertising and fancy bottle but most of their product are sold at ready to use strength where other company products can be dulated and some are like 100 :1 or more with companies like bilthamber, koche, wolf gang and more , chemical guy are more for those who get attracted to the fancy bottles
@@rdeh1678may I ask if this Bilt Hamber Touchless Surfax HD is able to remove grime and grease from surfaces, and won’t damage plastic and wire covers?
@ejshelby5460 that's correct it is non caustic , and safe , they also have a amazing prewash that is sugar based and lifts dirt like no other snow foam has ever done basically cleans the car without touching it crazy . Surfax HD is a great A.P.C , while touchless is a ph12 snowfoam prewash , for rusty cars they have atom mac
Detailers, especially on TH-cam, love to deep clean engine bays because they’re always so dirty and show a huge difference when cleaned. They pressure wash rinse, soak it in foam degreaser then hit it with another pressure wash. My gut instinct was that it was excessive especially in newer cars with so many sensitive electrical parts/connections, thank you for making this video Ahmed.
Meh not a big deal, don’t directly hit electrical components, keep the pressure washer a good distance away, and always keep the washer moving
No, you forgot the MOST IMPORTANT STEP.. the last step.. which is to REMOVE THE WATER after the second pressure wash, preferably using an air compressor because they're the strongest, every single connector they see will dry up completely after just a second or two with that amount of concentrated air. I almost exclusively follow AmmoNYC and every single time he dries the entire engine compartment, using microfiber cloths and compressed air.
@Jay-rg5mt the issue is the moisture getting into the wiring harness thats how i see it. Damp towel is more than sufficient i believe
I always have the car running when I do a quick clean. Pressure on low and at a distance will clean it real quick and never had a problem. I do it about once a year maybe every other year
Just have common sense. Remember that water is an electrical conductor ang can cause short circuits. Also water causes corrosion and oxidation...i just brush off or blow up dust with s compressor and wipe damp microfiber cloth on the engine.
Great video as always
I wash my engine couple times a year. I’m in salt country.
I regularly spray silicone spray on my wires and I also use silicone paste on and around connectors to keep water off and keeps wires soft and copper wires from going green. Friend of mine bought tundra same time I did and his wires started to turn green while mine stayed copper. Been doing this since 1983.
Good to know. I'm in southern California and had to watch TH-cam videos to see the damage that salt does. Unbelievable till I actually saw it.
Nice to know others do the same thing. Friends think I'm weird for using silicone/dielectric grease to protect the electrical contacts.
I clean my engine by hand, water and bucket a small brush. Then I buff the whole thing with WD40 with a rag till dry. Last 6 months.
I live in Finland. Lots of salt on the road. Have an opel astra (more or less a Chevy Cruze) and don’t think I ever ever cleaned it except for making sure it doesn’t get dirty between the poles of the battery. Haven’t had any electrical problems at all
@@alfonso1843 If you live in Salt country I highly recommend you look into a product made by Bilthamber called Atom Mac , it's a water borne migratory and contact corrosion inhibitor , and Bilthamber Dynax s50 , you spray it into voids and cavities on your truck ,example the plugs in the bottom of your truck doors you just pop one off and spray .
As a new car owner, this is my go-to channel. No BS, just plain simple facts and straightforward explanations of do's and don'ts. Thanks Ahmed!
This video gives me vibes of a physician or dentist who is realistic and caring. Nothing alarming. Just explains general info and why we do the things we do. Nice video!
Another informative video dripping with common sense. As a pro bike mechanic we faced similar cleaning issues with getting water into bearings (hubs, headsets, bottom brackets), the trick is to use dawn dish soap, soft sponge and a very light spray. I finish drying bike with a leaf blower front the front and back (preventing water entry into bearings and frame).
Unsealed bearings and even sealed mechanisms should be illegal. It amazes me how many bikes that are $1500+ still have unsealed hubs. 🙄
Even with sealed bearings on a non-steel bike?
water in engine bay, motorcycle, bike, is all madness. just wipe it off.
minus engine bay, that one needs nothing. leave your esthetics for visible parts.
@@kovie9162 Yup. It is best practice.
@@Evom777 Yes. That is ridiculous.
Something worth remembering from the carpentry trade: water will travel upwards between two surfaces - against gravity. If I remember correctly it was referred to as the "phenonemon of capillary action". We had to know this when making casement windows to determine the gap between the sash and frame, and then create an anti-capillary groove.
They were referred to as anti-capillary grooves on the drawings that went back decades and decades. So different from 'drips'.
So the point being that when AMD says water will find its way into areas, this is how I expect it will do it. If water finds a way with wood, then I expect it will have an easier time with metal and plastic.
The last mobile mechanic I employed just left the hood open in the slashing rain, and I never went back to him. Shows how rare a mechanic AMD is that he brings this up. Greatly appreciate the videos as always.
Wood wicks as it's permeable. Metal is not. Basic understanding of materials.
not being a dick/capillary attraction
No that's not what it is. I think you're referring to is water being absorbed by wood. What I'm refering to is two non-permeable surfaces (such as glass or painted wood) that are barely touching each other. So if you've got a electrical plug facing upwards into the socket, the water will find its way between the two and it wont drop down with gravity. Or with electrical wire it will go horizontally before it goes straight down if the wire is horizontal for example.
That's why a traditional window should have a groove between the sash and the frame, because it should only have a penny gap (1/16" or so) after its been painted. But nobody ever did it, and typically they didn't have a penny gap so it didn't always matter. @@jahmanborneo1343
@@jahmanborneo1343 it wicks because water is attracted to itself, not because of the properties of the adjacent material.
@@jahmanborneo1343 Not being a dick, materials don't matter, it's a combination of liquid surface tension and the adhesive forces in play. Basic understanding of capillary action...
Mr. Car Care Nut, you are a big blessing to car owners. I have always resisted the idea of taking my car for an engine bay wash and I am glad I have never done it. The advices I have received from a few local mechanics have been misleading, one of them even told me that I could wash the engine bay under pressure when the engine is running! I remained skeptical of that advice and am glad I watched this video before attempting any cleaning methods. When it comes to maintainance of my V6 toyota Mr. Car Care Nut's advice becomes cardinal rules. Thank you Mr. Car Care Nut for always educating us on how to maintain our cars. May God bless you abundantly.
I used to work in a garage but as a car painter, the mechanics always told us to let the engine run if it was a diesel while washing it and not spray directly on certain parts it was almost a decade ago and only did it once or twice but I think the reason is that if you didn't the engine might not want to start after and maybe because if there's some water that goes where it shouldn't the heat will dry it.
One thing I do is just use a swiffer wand every few months to remove dust in my relatively clean engine bay. It is pretty good at reaching into crevices or hard to reach places. So far I haven’t needed to use any liquids to clean it since I bought the vehicle 4 years ago.
Thanks for clarifying this! I always see detailers using a pressure washer on the engine bay and they always say how safe it is! The problem is that they are NOT mechanics and the damage they MAY do wont necessarily be seen for many years. Wash by hand, and take your time...
While it may seem fast to just rinse down everything with pressure washer, in reality, it takes more time to dry everything. I learned over the years to just use a leaf blower once a month and a simple wipe down with a slightly damp shop towel if necessary. Truth be said, when the plastic covers are clean, that already satisfies each one's itch. At the end of the day, no one is going to look at your engine bay everyday.
@@jeancassel 💯
It was not that big of a deal before fuel injection and a tone of electric parts. We always pressure washed our engine while running but right after wiper it down. Cars didn’t last nearly as long as they do now. In New England we always had to replace wires but they where a-lot simpler
@@christopherjoyce9788 Right, older cars really didn't have many electronics at all, and a little water wouldn't hurt a cast iron engine with good ol' carbs! I miss my 78 Cutlass! 😆
One time I went to a Toyota dealership to pick up some parts and I’ve seen their mobile detailing staff members power washing engine bays in pre owned trade-in cars so I assumed that it was safe enough to spray engine but not the electrical components. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and mechanical knowledge with us 👍.
The dealerships usually contract 3rd party detailers to do their jobs. The detailer will charge a certain amount like $500 for example & the dealership charges the customer $1100.
I've seen toyota detailer power wash the inside of car doors 😂
@@goldentrichomeshydro4260detailers will often clean out the door jambs using a pressure washer. They use a low angle tip to limit the amount of water getting into the interior.
@balabay77 Worked for Toyota in the early 90's which i jet washed Toyota engines & the area manager caught me TWICE! He did warn me the first time. Never had any issues,i didn't go overboard jetting it,i just made sure the chemical was pretty strong but not overly strong/powerful....a decent scrub prior to jetting is what i did.no comebacks thou..
They're hiding the oil leak
I’ll use some simple green/purple power, rinse with wide spray of water, then compressed air. I’ve never had an issue, but I generally only do this annually. Engine bay looks clean helping to spot any leaks.
I’ve seen many cars where it’s so dirty, you can’t even read brake/washer fluid levels.
We detail in our automotive shop after a car after a repair that involved an oil leak. We dilute Purple power with water and a brush to agitate the oily grime. We follow with compressed air and a wipe down. I apply tire shine on the plastic and then a wipe down to remove the extra residue. We avoid alternators and ECM/PCM. It can take 1-2 hours but we want to the customer to notice the difference in the finished product. We send them BEFORE and AFTER photos of all of our repairs
@@jamram9924 I'm a bit late to the video... only a few minutes in... but was hoping this would be addressed. I need to do some de-greasing and cleaning on my high mileage car to help see if I have an oil or other fluid leak. (Both now and preventative in the future)
@@fricky172 sometimes I’ll use a pump bottle with very hot water and degreaser. I apply it directly to the areas where the oil is present. If the oil turned into greasy dirt, you may find yourself using a stiff wire brush or putty knife to remove the thick encrusted oily dirt. I’ll use a power washer in areas like the engine block, transmission and engine oil pan to do a final wash and rinse.
@@robertruge2916 The alternator in my vehicle is original, 13 years old, no issue yet. You just have to be careful with what you're doing and where/how you spray. I've never covered anything.
I’m 63 years old been pressure washing motors since the 70’s. Covered a few items and have never had a problem.
Nice to present a clean engine bay to a mechanic because the mechanic will appreciate you providing a clean engine to work on and it also shows that you have some respect to the person working on your car. That in turn is more likely to give you a mechanic that is happier to work on your car.
totally agree with you, i just spray a towel with a general cleaner(quick detail spray) and wipe everything down, works great and zero water so no worries.
Me too. I can spend hours on the initial cleaning, but monthly, bi-monthly, it's just a dust wipe down. I love old cars.
Nice. My older cars are old but I keep them clean, in and out and under the hood. And I feel good about how they look.
I’ll clean the engine bay maybe once a year but more importantly, I replace fasteners that are starting to rust. Good information here as always. The engine bay gets dusty and dirty very quickly so I just hand clean with a hand pump sprayer. I like Oil Eater spray. Doesn’t affect metals or plastics. 1:2 dilution. Distllled water.
I suggest using fluid film with a applicator every season. Eventually it builds up thick and you just have to touch up once in a while. People think it’s just for underneath but you can spray it anywhere and all over anything. It stops rust and makes the plastic shiny.
I do the same with fasteners! I replace any that are starting to rust. I also keep the peppermint cans fastened in the engine bay also….They keep the mice, rats and squirrels from Chewing wires. The peppermint works great.
@@markm0000 Coating an engine bay in oil, what could go wrong lmao
@@ADUSN The coating just boils off areas that get hot. The problem is when you have a lot of oil dripping out the valve covers right onto the exhaust while the car is driving up a hill with high EGTs. That’s when it becomes a fire hazard and the oil combusts.
@@ADUSN Oil temps reach 250f max? Set your oven at that temp and put a pan full of thin cooking oil in there. It will not catch on fire, it just boils off. Same thing here.
I'm a huge fan! I'm 71 and like to be as hands-on as possible in life. I have 2024 Camry Hybrid. May I suggest doing a video where you suggest/instruct non-car people - those of us who can't get underneath their cars - how to do the simpler tasks?
I always use diesel as a degreaser, do cover fuse box, battery and alternator with a grocery bag and on a spray washer I never push actual trigger for more pressure, just spray it off, keep hood open for a good 15 minutes, carefully wipe out the area with microfiber towel, lastly I use 303 plastic / rubber protector spray as a detailing. I drive my car as delivery as well as for personal use about 35K a year, any weather, keep engine bay clean is a must for me.... Great vid, thanks for sharing 👍
Some vehicles are designed/built better than others in terms of keeping stuff out of the engine bay, so it doesn't get dirty/soiled much in the first place at all. My 2022 CX-30 is almost 2 years old now & the engine bay still looks brand new minus a very light coat of dust that I finally wiped off last month without much effort. The Corolla Cross (& regular Corolla) has two giant/open hood gaps above the headlights from the factory with no seal & which allows all sorts of rain/water, dirt, grime & debris into the engine bay. My friend's one year old Corolla Cross looks super dirty/grimy already inside the engine bay & my 2020 Corolla sedan had the same issue. Not sure what Toyota was thinking (other than cutting costs) with those large hood gaps & no seals/weather-liners for U.S. version models on these vehicles (some other global markets did receive the seals/weather-stripping in those areas). Tacky, tacky - and makes you wonder where else they cut little corners to increase profits.
I’m not surprised some people don’t even have common sense after showing you the WHY and still going against it because they been doing it there way for 50 years,lol.
Thank you AMD for this and all your videos, long time subscriber here.I have learned to do my own maintenance on my car because of you and can’t thank you enough. I’m no means
A mechanic but have learned so much through your videos. I just purchased new Toyota and now know how to keep engine clean. Keep up the good work and god bless you too.
What is AMD?
I clean the engines in my cars by mixing real warm water and dawn dish soap. I take a towel soak it in the solution and wring it out. Wipe all the surfaces and keep repeating. You do this once.a week and it takes all of 5 to 10 minutes and your engine bay stays pristine. Just like you suggest I too use detailer to finish. Great video because some people do think that hosing the whole engine bay with a hose is the way to go.
Stop using Dawn on plastic parts esp in the engine
I am very conscious of my 4Runner’s condition, and first use a very soft dust pan brush to get most of the dust off my engine components, and then move on to other means as necessary. Works great! Thx so much for your great videos, and for your spiritual sign off 😊
Old time retired technician here. For degreasing, I have used Gunk for years it works great. For engine blocks, firewalls, engine bay, fender liners, oil pans, etc. never use it on sensitive items like starters, alternators, electrical components, etc. Gently hose it off with moderate pressure. Just be ready to safely contain all the yuck that hits the floor, don’t wash it down the drain. Professionally you can get fined so charge according. 😮
Amazing advice that should be taken seriously! Thank you very much for all your advice. The problem is that the people who need it the most don't listen to channels like this one, "which is the best."
I sent an appointment request for my 2017 Tacoma to be serviced by TCCN Automotive after it comes out of Winter storage here in NY.
Only the best will do for me! No matter how far it is!
@@efil4kizumGreat bro! At least you know at Ahmed’s place it’ll be done right!
I’m already set to make the 11 1/2 hour drive from NY to TCCN in mid April. Meli is going to get back to me with an exact date. Now I can sleep at night knowing the dealer won’t be touching my truck! 😂😂😂
@@efil4kizumNope… Just doing all the preventative things and checking some of the issues that the 2017 had…overall nothing major…
I was going to suggest using a car detailer on the engine bay lol. You can also clean the underside of the hood and clean all the seals. keeping the seals clean around the hood I have found through the years really helps keep the engine bay clean.
I just got my oil leaks fixed after leaking oil forever. My engine FEELS like a fire hazard. So I bought a dual function pressure washer sweeper to clean the under carriage. I found this video while searching how to clean it. THANK YOU from the perspective of the guy that has to FIX the damage. I will cover up my connectors and clean everything cold. All other videos from others said to spray the brake cleaner on oil "stains" on a hot engine.
As always, thank you for your expert car knowledge and warning to NEVER pressure wash under the hood. I once ruined an engine by pressure washing. I pressure washed and blew the fuse on the engine fan. The electric fan was shorted out and failed to come on in the Summer heat. Overheated the engine, warped the head, and that was the end of a good engine.
I’ve never used water inside my engine compartments. I’ve used either windex or simple green. They are both great cleaners and degreasers without fuss. With all of the electronics and connectors, you have to be conscious of your cleaning methods. His points are well headed.
Dont use windex ffs.
The newest vehicle I've owned as far as cleaning the engine was my 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada and after I cover the Throttle Body with a plastic bag I used a Engine cleaner I'd buy from Costco,that stuff is so strong it would even remove paint.It said not to daloot it but I would deloot it anyway,half water half cleaner and it would still take grease off completely.But I never had the problem with my Alternator not working after I'd sprayed the engine off with the garden hose and it was in very wide spray mode.But now I drive a,"2010 Toyota 4 Runner Limited", and after watching your EXCELLENT VIDEO, I've got 2nd thoughts on cleaning the engine off, there's alot more electronics under the hood which has a "4.0L V6 ENGINE"and it's AWD AND 4X4,BOTH !
I never knew that about the Alternator though but it makes sense.
Light pressure/mist on cold engine. Simple Green full strength on grease and oil. Let dwell an hour or two. Drive car after to evaporate water.
Once you get a good base clean. The lightest mist to knock dust off is all you need.
Yes, Simple Green is amazing stuff.
Every detailer who does Engine bays should watch this video. I used to detail cars ,trucks vans etc. I always did the engine bays. I was very fortunate that as far as know had someone come back to me with a problem with their engine after I did an engine detail. I never pressure washed the engine as tempting as that might be . I never covered the alternator or disconnected the battery which on some cars can give you a mess of problems. I had one customer tell me do not clean the engine bay. He wasn't a mechanic or was he all that mechanical, but he did understand about water and electrical or electronic problems. I like the wipe down method with a towel. I also like to use a product called Trim shine made by Stoner. it is a solvent based spray that makes all the hoses ,plastic panels look like new !
I’ve had great results using a cheap, low powered electric pressure washer, like the $70 harbor freight one. I spray with a dollar store degreaser like Totally Awesome. I large paint brush to loosen the dirt. Then rinse with the pressure washer. I start in the morning and I leave the hood open all day and night. Perfect every time and never a problem. 2018 Camry 2.5
The thing with a pressure washer is to stand back from the car when spraying the engine. I believe people have issues because they are spraying there engines standing right next to them and they probably don’t keep the water moving that’s important to. I stand a good 2 to 3 feet back from my car when spraying the engine and I keep the water moving in a zig zag motion. I don’t just stand there with the pressure washer and spray one area.
Right on brother!
Good advice. You can put your hand in front of a pressure sprayer at least 1 to 2 feet away and it loses it's energy quickly and only rinses.
You can reduce its pressure at the tip by using a wider angle spray tip
This is gold. I will not be offering engine “detailing” as a service and honestly, I think it will win them over when I explain why using the information you provided. Thank you for this informative video.
I've cleaned a couple thousand cars, and honestly, just a 20-30 second power wash (avoiding alternator and connectors), dry it up, then spray a water-based interior dressing and the customer will be very happy. And it'll take less than 10 minutes.
I haven’t offered engine bay cleaning as well. Seems to be too much of a liability.
Thanks, excellent info. Working with electronin equipment since the early '70s, MANY intermittent problems were caused by connectors. We old timers could go to the coin op car wash and spend 25 cents on a shiny engine. Those days are long gone. Compressed air is your friend.
Bought my 2016 sienna new. Just rolled 130k miles. I do most maintenance myself. Oil changes every 5k miles (factory filter). Never had an issue. Also have never washed my engine bay :)
I have a 1992 Chrysler and have always kept a clean engine. After a service at my mx provider I'll always get a "thank you" for my efforts and I think one gets a bit better service when the tech works on a clean engine. The car has 196K on the clock. Decades ago I started using WD40 as my cleaning/protecting agent, mainly because the car was my daily driver and I lived in Chicago where fighting rust is a battle that never ends. These days I generally deep clean the engine bay once annually: I cover the distributor with a plastic bag, spray the engine liberally with "Super Soap" (which comes out of the spray wand at very low pressure) and let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse with the Spot-Free water rinse (which is also low pressure). After getting the car home I'll do a very light spray of WD40 to areas I can access and then wipe down all exposed surfaces. I've read commenters cautions about the evils of WD40 but for me in this application it does just fine- no problems with belts or hoses and so on. I also think the silicone is beneficial to the plastics and aging plastic that's getting brittle is the bane of any older automobiles. After seeing this video I will start bagging the alternator as well, but my attitude has always been that car engines are designed to operate when wet from road spray, so a light rinse won't destroy an engine's operation.
Maybe you just got lucky.
Its a good thing friend, your car is pre OBD2 ,PRE ECU everywhere trying these on newer car is not as easy.Modern cars are engineered to fail after X years plain n simple.
I used the same technique on a 2012 Sentra I bought new and had no issues until 169K when the CVT failed. But I suspect the xsmn failure wasn't related to my use of WD40. On the Sentra I did bag the ECM before and cleaning, though. I agree with your comment that modern cars are built to crumble in 10 years or fewer.@@drincogni
Possibly. Dunno.@@norakat
The WD in WD40 stands for water displacement.
Excellent advice! Clean your engine compartment exactly the way he showed us and if anything malfunctions you will have a clean conscience knowing you didn’t cause any problems. Clean the exterior and interior too your heart’s content but if it ain’t broke don’t fix it! Leave the car hood closed!!!
I just wipe things off with shop towels type paper towels. I use armor all cleaner but that's obviously not the only one that one can use... A damp (water) paint brush cleans areas that are hard to get at. Good demo.
I use a steam cleaner, soft detailers brush and mild soap, and a low shine finishing product on all the plastic and rubber parts. Works great in all the nooks and crannies with low risk of water damage.
by the way, a powerful leaf blower can also be useful for blowing the engine bay clean. I also do that after a car wash to get rid of water that got in from the edge of the bonnet. (OCD at work)
great info, i've been doing engine washes for a long time, i've made alot of mistakes in the beginning, call me crazy - but now i don't cover anything, i avoid direct spray on specific areas and i air dry everything afterwards along with water dispersing aerosols. never use a regular hose (too much water), always use a low pressure washer, let the overspray clean the sensitive parts.
Great video. Not cleaning a hot engine is a good tip. Sealed areas will create a vacuum when cooled and suck water in. Anyone familiar with canning will know what I mean. One thing not mentioned in this video is how to clean the hood insulation. I never had a problem with cleaning it. I dribble water through it like a giant tea bag till the water flows out clean. Let all the water drain out before closing the hood. The fibers in the insulation don't hold water themselves so it will dry pretty fast. Don't close the hood right after getting the insulation wet because it's weight will cause it to sag.
Re: " Not cleaning a hot engine is a good tip" This is BS. Driving through a large puddle with a hot engine is no different. The exhaust manifolds, heads, etc will be soaked.
@@MikeS-n2ithere is a difference between a puddle and drenching your engine block with cold tap water. I warped my 2021 Tacoma rotors from aggressive driving then blowing through a small stream multiple times.
Good advice. However I have washed my truck engine atleast 20 times with a power washer and engine degreaser. 2001 tacoma. Had it for 23 years and runs strong.
Wow another brand new video I can't tell you how helpful these are for those of us who want to own our Toyotas for a lifetime!
Of course it nice to see when your mechanic cleaned your engine bay little bit. He had to replace some part , but he also cleaned, so for me this means that he cares. I live in Germany , and I have visited many shops with my previous German car , and no one ever cleaned anything.
I find that keeping an engine bay and really all exterior parts of the car fairly clean isn't just about esthetics, but also rust prevention, and because it makes working on the car and figuring out what's wrong with it easier and simpler, and more pleasant. No need to go crazy but once or twice a year, like spring and fall, isn't such a bad idea, so long as you're careful. You can spot leaks, cracks, frayed wires, etc., much easier if things aren't coated in dust, grime, crud and so on.
But yeah, it also looks nicer.
@@efil4kizum Heh, I suppose, but only in the same way that a leaky exhaust keeps you from hearing how your wheel bearings are shot.
I cleaned the engine bay of a 98 camry a few years ago. I use a garden hose, some degreaser in a few areas and some car soap in a few others and did a general cleaning and rinsing withbthe garden hose. I used a leaf blower to dry the eengine bay out some and then left the car with the hood open for a few hours on a nice summer day to dry. I didnt have any issues with anything after that or the entire time I owned the car. I just avoided the alternator when cleaning and removed the battery before I started my cleaning. A lot of cleaning an engine bay is just use common sense and be nice with things, dont go overboard with anything.
My intuition has never allowed me to spray down an engine bay with water. It just never made sense to me.
Using an all purpose cleaner (APC) and/or a detailer/trim dressing with a microfiber towel gives me all I need. I do it maybe 3 times a year MAX.
As you said, staying on top of the build up of dust goes a VERY long way.
You’re absolutely right about the cavity with the ignition coils. The first time I ever tried washing my an engine bay professionally. I was very careful and used low pressure water. I wrecked my ignition coils. My chevy sonic ectec engine has the coils on the very top of the engine sunken into a cavity and the day after I washed my engine bay one of the coils failed.
Thanks again for a great informative video. I've had my new to me 2022 Prius LE for three months now. Thankfully I've never spayed the engine bay with water. I used to spray down my old car's engine bay from time to time (a Kia Soul), but did it gently. But seeing you demonstrate how I should keep my already spotless Prius's engine bay clean confirmed my thoughts on this. Thanks again! Your channel is a top favorite of mine.
EXCELLENT video as usual. I usually use the same damp microfiber that I dry off exterior body, interior, door jambs, wheels and then the engine area. It’s super simple if you do it every time you wash the car. The dealership is always impressed, when I drop the car off for service.
I'm incredibly grateful for the info you shared! I've used a pressure washer twice on the engine bay of my 2018 Camry XSE V6 since I bought it. Maintenance washes involve wiping down and blowing dust away with compressed air, and so far, no issues at all!
In the early 90's I used a pennzoil product to clean my engine bay. Instructions said to warm it up 5 minutes, spray it on, and then spray it off with a hose. I did that on my 79 Accord. Aluminum heads. Hot engine plus cold water equals bad head gasket. Thanks pennzoil. Haven't bought anything with that name on it since. I wrench and I have gained knowledge over the years. Never again will I ever try to wash an engine bay. Not just because of the pennzoil lesson learned but also as stated in this video, electrical has become more and more dominant over time. If I ever clean anything due to spillage like changing a power steering pump, I simply use brake cleaner to knock it all down. Dries fast and won't smoke as whatever I spilled is cleaned up.
I use Huggies natural baby wipes and spend a good amount of time cleaning by hand. If it’s good for a baby’s bottom it’s good for my engine bays.
I like this one😅
Thank you for your video... I have washed hundreds of vehicles of all types, sizes, etc., with my gas powered power washer, and never, ever, hurt any of them...
These are regular clients who see me annually/bi-annually, etc., and they love to see their engine compartment all cleaned and treated with a product that makes all the black plastic and rubber hoses look new again...
I DO use a professional blower to dry as much after I wash and rinse, and then leave the vehicle with the hood up outside for a few hours to insure it's going to be as dry as possible...
My pressure washer is Not a huge 3-4+ gph monster, and I use the widest Fan Tip on the end of it..
I use common sense and Look at what I am going to be spraying on the cleaner first, and then rinsing it all off, and of course, do Not spray into electronic parts, like the alternator, etc...
I also like to sometimes, when the front of the engine compartment is especially dirty, etc., to of course, after spraying a cleaner there, come back and spray it all out from the inside of the compartment Out, through the grill, etc., and get as many of those pesky bugs, etc., out at the same time..
One just has to pay really great attention, and Look at what's in there, and avoid things that may house electronic boards, etc., in them, and Manage your spray tip to not hit them and get water inside them...
The Only vehicle I will Never used this on is all Ferrari cars, which have a Lot of connectors that are not always water tight.. :)
I spray the engine bay with water after every snow fall and the road is dry to get rid of the accumulated salt while the engine is cold. So far, never had an issue with connectors.
I’m glad I watched this video. I was thinking of cleaning the engine bay soon. Just ordered the body cleaner and will do this. Seems very simple!
Great video. I use to detail cars and luckily never had any issues. Always used a degreaser and pressure washer at a distance. Let the degreaser do the work. But nowadays on my personal vehicles I just try to upkeep the cleanliness so it isn't a big deal.
Thanks on the info on touchscreen infotainment systems. I didn't know they could be damaged with certain cleaners. Been using 409 but will definitely be getting touchscreen cleaners.
Aaa
Very well done! I bought a 20 year old Mini Cooper that was in great shape. I did take it to a car wash where you have the option to power wash your engine. It was not that dirty so I passed. Very glad I did and like you said spray and wipe! Thank You...
Using pressure washer is exactly what Toyota HQ Japan is specified how it should be cleaned.
There is a video about Toyota certified used car's engine bay clean up procedure (specified by Toyota HQ in Japan).
"TOYOTA pay close attention to even used car's quality! with English subtitles"
I just cleaned my engine bay. I used a microfiber towel and did exactly what he's doing. I used amorall, w-40 and back to black. You can use Dawn liquid detergent as a degreaser it's pretty gentile on the plastics but still a good idea to wipe clean dry. Back to.black actually cleans and blackens old dull black plastics pretty well.
I normally go over mine with Tub 'O Towel wipes but I'm going to try some waterless car wash soap and microfiber towels next.
I do it once a year, to remove salt deposits. Just a smooth shower without any pressure being careful not to soak the alternator, and then drive for an hour on the highway to make sure everything is dry. No chemicals.
Compressed air or a leaf blower to get off large debris, rag and spray if it's not too dirty, or use a small detail steamer for tough cleaning.
Thank you for the great, informative videos! I am a big Toyota and Honda fan. I operate a car wash and attempt to provide guidance to customers when i see them preparing to wash their engine bays. The water pressure at the exit of our pumps is 1450 psi! In bay, the water pressure at the tip is about 1300 psi, high enough to cut a finger off. We also use professional strength Dawn to degrease our bays. It works great and is not aggressive on paint.
outstanding video. i don't like putting any strong chemicals into my engine bay so i usually stay away from degreasers unless i really need them, then i make sure to give a good cleaup to make sure nothing is left behind when i'm done. i like using distilled water and dawn dishsoap mixed at about 0.5%-1% dawn to water ratio in a spray bottle for basic cleaning. the distilled water doesn't have any minerals or metals that can accelerate corrosion and the bit of dish soap acts as a very mild degreaser. i use a couple different-sized microfiber wands and a few different brushes to get into awkward areas and microfiber rags on the rest. hit the plastics with a ceramicoat designed for plastic lower body panels once every couple years to help resist dust and salt. silicone/dielectric paste for electrical connectors, wires and anything where particulate might settle and corrode or abrade. i deep clean once a year and give it a quick cleaning monthly when i check my fluids and do a visual for anything out of the ordinary. the microfiber wands have found leaks super early a couple times. they are normally pretty clean but if they come back with oil or something other than basic road grime and dust, it's time to start looking a little more seriously.
i find having a written list of exactly what i need to do on my monthly checkups helps me actually check everything that needs to be checked and i get it done faster because i don't have to remember what to do, just check the list. i usually look up common failures for may make/model/year/region and add those to my checkup list. costs me half an hour once a month but it has saved me thousands.
This guy comes short and straight. No bullshit.
On my older 1995 Dakota 5.2 Sport I use what I learned from a neighbor on his 5.0 mid production Mustang with it’s brand new looking engine bay. A hand spray down with Original 409 cleaner, wait ten minutes, then garden hose spray gun on spray setting. Because of all the connectors and deep spark plug tubes in my 2021 Tacoma Sport TRD I will be subscribing to your hand spray detailer micro fiber wipe down instead. Good video. Thanks.
I never use high pressure water to clean my ES350 engine compartment but rather I use a damp shop towel or rag (sometimes with a bit of 409 type cleaner on it) to wipe down the exposure surfaces when I am checking fluid levels etc or when things begin to get obviously dirty/dusty/grimy…and this practice keeps the engine bay clean enough for even this admittedly anal retentive/almost OCD clean nut (on my very first car…a 1962 VW Beetle…I would go as far as to clean the inside of my hub caps!).
I detailed my hybrid camry 2013 in march 2022, and sold it last november 2023. I used degreaser and a brush first, then a pressure washer to rinse, then a air blower to dry. Not once did I have any issues after this. Point is, be careful and don't hit blatantly obvious connectors etc, and make sure you dry EVERYTHING well afterwards.
I generally clean the engine bay once or twice in a year with a toothbrush and/or towels and depending on the surface, i use different solvents, I like the orange degreaser for the engine surface and tire shine on the plastics. I never use water. I have never had problems.
Do use WD40, i do mine 2x a year EVERYWHERE. Had a 2002 Yaris for 14yrs with no rust, the rear beam/bar was in great cond indeed unlike these Fiat 500's which fail it's MOT (Yearly inspection) when they're 8yrs old! My old Yaris only ever failed it's MOT (Yearly inspection) on wiper blades/windscreen wiper blades TWICE.
Back in the old days 60's - 70's you could pretty much power wash the entire engine/bay. Today, with all the complex electronic parts/connectors I wouldn't even consider that anymore. What I do is use clean dry/damp rags and for areas that are tight and small I use a screwdriver with a thin rag covering the tip...then probe around and do the best you can.
I know mechanics always say this but I've been doing it since 1986😅
My shop teacher when I was in high school so many years ago now drove an older Ford F-150 with the 300 straight six. As long as you kept water out of the carburetor it really wouldn't hurt anything at all if you hosed out the engine bay. With all the electronics and computers on cars today I wouldn't even consider doing that.
A good common sense video. I have a question about all the rubber door seals. I clean them with just a damp cloth, but should we use a silicone spray or something to keep the rubbers supple and not dried out? Thanks.
For cheap, you can buy the silicone tire shine stuff, it works though you have to do it once a month if it's always pouring in your area. I recommend checking out 303 Aerospace protectant, it's made especially for the rubber / vinyl /leather / plastics against UV rays.
Normally lasts 3-5 months when car sees rain. You can use this too on interior trims (dashboard, doors) and will leave a rejuvenated deep colored satin finish. If you liked the results, and want to keep using the stuff long-term, I highly suggest to look for the gallon version, it is way cheaper. Btw, you only need a few squirts on a towel to use for all the door rubber seals.
Silicone works good, keeps them soft, and in cold climates helps with them not sticking when freezing rain gets in there
Thx for the tips. On the infotainment screen. What works for me is very light mist of distilled water and a microfiber cloth to "gently clean the screen" Never use Windex or any alcohol based cleaners on infotainment screens. I'm going to try the no rinse car was for my engine bay. I've always just wiped it down but l Like your suggestion and demonstration.
Great video! One thing to be very careful of is to not use any aggressive degreaser that is very alkaline (caustic) (or acidic, for that matter) on any metal, especially aluminum. I made the mistake of using an alkaline cleaner on the crankcase of an old BMW motorcycle, and the aluminum alloy started to corrode and flake off. Also, be very careful if tempted to use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust and dirt, or compressed air from a nozzle to blow dust off, as both can generate static electricity and can potentially damage expensive, delicate electronics.
Good tip on degreasers. I have heard that they can take out the AC condenser rather quickly.
@@Esteban_Herrera I hadn't thought of that, but I believe you. Another good reason to avoid any strong cleaner/degreaser.
@@technodan3083 Careful with the condenser on a home AC too.
@@user-3tf67bk46utake an ESD course this certainly doesn’t work you’ve gotten lucky. Need an esd approved vacuum/fan that is properly grounded. Plastic is non conductive it tribocharges and so yea grounding it will only remove charge from the exact spot you grounded it
@@user-3tf67bk46u ehhh idk in theory water is a polar molecule and does equalize some charge. Take a static shirt that sticks to your skin. Get it wet it’ll mostly solve that problem even after it dries. But keep in mind type of static that can shock electronics you can’t feel or notice. Generally best practices are way overkill but really depends on what electronics you’re near. They do have esd protection in all computer chips these days but they only save it up to a point. Your body is charged to thousands of volts on a 12v battery system. I’m saying probably helps but I don’t expect your methods to produce perfect results forever it seems risky to me. But if a shop is doing the same thing you are better than that by taking some preventative measures. Fans usually actually deionize the air. But I doubt any of us could afford an esd free vacuum they’re probably so specialized
I recently cleaned my engine bay. Turbo Subaru. Sprayed engine cleaner all over. Agitated with a brush and used the shower setting on my garden hose. Stayed away from the alternator and battery. Rinsed and repeated until it was clean. Used a blower to get rid of any standing water and let it dry for a couple of hours with the hood up. No issues. 👍🏾
Good Looking out Boss;! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and videos. Every time I’m going to do some things to my new Tacoma, I always say let’s see what the car care nut has to say about it. I have learned so much from you thanks 🙏 again!!
A common mistake a lot of detailers make is they chase that cleaning perfection and everything else goes out of the window. Deep scratch on paint? They buff it until it's not visible, but it also leaves you too little of a clear coat to protect the car for years to come. Same with engine bay detailing, splash everything with the cleaner, doesn't matter where it goes and they just cover the alternator and battery. Degreaser? Let's use it all over the engine bay including the plastic covers so it looks spotless clean, but how about durability of the plastic parts afterwards?
Awesome video as usual AMD!
Nothing can be further from the truth. This is pretty common with wanna-be detailers or just new ones. Most of the old timers pretty much would just do a wipe down. For scratches, if you meet a detailer that will tell you scratch is so deep and starts talking to you about thickness of paint, then you know you're dealing with the right one.
Mr TCCN is the MAN, the MYTH, the CAR CARE LEGEND!!! Thank you! 👍❤
Geeze my twenty year Solara has a dirty engine compartment. I wish you luck when you start working on it. I hate not having a warm place to park a car in winter. I cannot do any work on my cars when it is 22 degrees outside.
@@efil4kizum Yes in January. I am blessed to have discovered his shop.
I've occasionally used lens wipes for glasses on the touch screen in my car and it works quite well.😉
SO true. Bought my car new and just never allowed dirt to build up in the engine bay. Wash the body, wipe down the bay, simple.
Thanks for another video with good tips. I have always only used a rag and water without a high-pressure washer. Did it regularly. Will never be a problem. Ps: Work on some older cars now and then, so that we with old cars feel a bit at home in the videos :) :) I have two that I watch the most. The car care nut and scotty kilmer. Lots of good tips.
Thank you, Ahmed. I should be more careful when the engine is hot, not to wash it with cold sprayer at the self serve drive through washes. It's so tempting to get it super clean like you said, "not necessary" and could damage components like the alternator. Much appreciated your video is really helpful. May the lord keep YOU and bless you. Have a nice day!
Been pressure washing engine bays in my vehicle for decades. Just be prudent with distance. I kept one truck for 15 years and had zero negative effects. Cant be just luck.
If ur vehicle is around for decades then it dont really matter. The electronics is probably minor
The only problem that had with video sir is that I have been cleaning the engine bay and the inside of my Highlander and my Tacoma for the past 3 1/2 hours after feeling guilty that they were so dirty. Seriously though, I appreciate the info on your channel. 😊
I agree… I maintained my wife’s 2018 Camry from new and almost 6 years later the engine bay looks like new
2018 Camry also. Early summer i use dish soap with a lot of water at low volume to remove salt. Then run the car to heat up the engine . Then wet towel to clean the top covers and painted areas. Works great .
That's funny, exactly what you recommended is what I've been using for years to keep my engine bays clean. I've been a detailer for a long time, and prefer to keep the engine bays clean on my own cars (most customers I've had didnt really care or ask about it, so I didnt bother). But on my own cars when I'm getting the engine bay clean for the first time, I use heavily diluted simple green, and instead of spraying directly on anything in the engine bay. I have a long bristle brush and give a light spray directly on the brush. I clean a section, then immediately wipe it clean. Now that my car's engine bay is fairly clean, I use some simple detail spray that I got in bulk, and wipe the dust off every year or so. I'll also use a very non oily tire shine that dry's good on rubber/plastic parts (obviously not everything) to keep them from cracking and drying out. I've seen so many videos over the years even from pretty well respected youtubers like chris fix that recommend using pressure washers/hoses on the engine bay. I've never... ever... EVER done this. People are so impatient, always looking for a "life hack" or a quick cheat to get results fast. The engine is an extremely complicated piece of machinery. Spend an afternoon, take your time, and be sure to not soak liquid anywhere where you think it shouldnt be.. just use some common sense, and be gentle around sensors/wires so you dont risk damaging them. Engine bays are built to handle light water spray from underneath the car, they arent made to handle gallons of water getting sprayed from the top down.
I had rat poop on my 2016 Honda Pilot engine cover, and removed the cover and washed it in my bathroom tube. I live in NYC, the Bronx, I guess I am going to charge them rent! LOL.
They take peanut, nut cheese as payment.
Rats in your engine compartment is no laughing matter. Many vehicles have wiring with an insulation material that rodents absolutely love to eat. This doesn’t just damage the wiring harness but also the electrical components and computer systems. I’ve seen repair bills for rodent damage exceed $5,000 in parts and labor
We have a 2020 Avalon and a 2021 Tundra, every time I go through the car wash I pull into the vacuum and detail area and use the microfiber towels to wipe down all the areas inside the door jambs, trunk lid, fuel door, hood and the entire engine compartment. By doing this every time it stays just like new without any cleaner of any kind.
Wow. Finally, you made this video!
Thank you, Ahmed.
Thanks for another great video. For a touch screen or any screen as a matter of fact (Laptop, tablet, phone, Camera lenses, etc) just make a simple solution of white vinegar and distilled water (9% distilled water and 1% white vinegar) it's clean all the screens very nicely without damaging it. I learned this hack from a professional photographer who cleaned his cameras and lenses with this solution. I have been using this for many years without any issues. Thanks
Once again, sound advice from someone who deals with engines every day. Thank you :)
Simple green will also attack aluminum.
I regularly clean my engines. It's really important over time, lets you identify where there might be leaks, and it's vitally important to clean dirt and dust off before you do any work opening the engine up to make sure zero dirt or dust can get in. If I have any problem areas I might resort to using a foaming degreaser if there is oily gunk. I use a garden hose (no pressure washer). Anymore I haven't had any concerns about spraying any part of the engine bay, all the important control modules are in water tight compartments. Dawn dish soap wirks well too.
But here's what's really important: you have to make sure it all gets dried really well. I'll use compressed shop air and sunlight mostly, especially on the alternator, wiring connectors, spark plug wells, etc. I will typically give a squirt of WD-40 on wiring connectors and the alternator, but only lightly because while it's good for preventing corrosion, it attracts dirt.
Bottom line for me is I'm not affraid of spraying garden hose water on anything in the engine compartment, but never a pressure washer. I will use a degreaser on problem areas, but I am sure to rinse it off well, and Dawn dish soap works well, but only when you can agitate and brush it, again rinses off well. NEVER use simple green on aluminum, but it can be safely used on everything else if you immediately rinse it off. And I make sure to dry everything very well after.
Another place to avoid cleaning with water is the distributor. This applies only to older cars of course (pre-2000s). Water under the distributor cap was a problem that could cause ignition failure. On flat engines the distributor was off to the side of the engine in closer proximity to the wheel well making it vulnerable to getting flooded if the car was driven too fast through flood waters.
I, once, saw a list of the Top Ten most un-trustworthy professions and it included the "why" for each one. Not surprisingly, auto-mechanics made that list. I am certain that, if names had been found there....yours would not make it to the list at all. You are convincing because you are such a professional----AND so trustworthy. I would imagine that you have a trail of customers who are so relieved to know that they chose you as their mechanic. I sure would be. Your videos are both educational and entertaining. Even if I see one that has nothing to do with any car-issue I have, I still watch them because you so seamlessly explain and demonstrate and I learn many new ideas. I always look forward to your next video.