Honda Civic Brake Master Cylinder Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video I show your how to replace the brake master cylinder on a 92-95 Honda Civic. I also show you how to prep the new master cylinder for installation with out a vice.
The master cylinder was purchased from RockAuto.com.
The tools were purchased from Amazon.
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The most underrated side to TH-cam, thx a lot
Another way to bleed them and make it easier to install is to mount and bolt up the master cylinder to the brake booster first, pour brake fluid and then proceed to bleed the cylinder using the kit provided. This will be less painful on your hand and speed things up (plus you can be ready to leave the hoses on until you are ready to connect the brake lines).
This was very informative and helpful. Thank you!
Good thing you bought them gloves haha
Question
When I am bleeding my rear breaks I don’t see any break fluid coming out for bleeder screw but I do see fluid coming from front breaks can it be the master cylinder going bad.
Either master cylinder or proportional valve exactly what was wrong with mine
@@RobertMorris-l3lmy brakes sink a bought car like the 2 years ago tried to bleed 2-3 times rear right I think would barley bleed any oil. I’m going to buy master cylinder but you think also my prop valve ??
Helped a lot thanks
Thank you. This was a helpful video.
@1:02 LOKTAR OGAR 😤🤘🏾
there was no gasket for the master to the booster?
My 2003 was a 12mm line nut
Are you able to just replace the seal? I think the part # is 46185-S04-J01. Looks to be the part # for my 2000 Honda Civic DX.
I'm thinking the same thing, did you try this John?
Either my master cylinder or booster is baf theirs rust in my reservoir any ideas?
Do you still have brake pressure? Is the pedal hard to push or does it take less force than usual? Brake boosters do fail, but 9 out of 10 times it will be the master cylinder.
Good thing that you bought gloves.
I have a 2005 Honda Civic LX I just had the calipers pads and lines replaced. When I drove it home. It started leaking but the resivoir was full. The mechanic made sure his brake job didn't miss something. Free of charge. I drove it home and it did the same thing. The steering wheel also shakes at high speeds. Is that connected?
Oh. And my pedal doesn't go all the way down. It stiffens and gets very sensitive. Also the rim is very hot to the touch.
Could be a wheelbearing or that they took your wheels out of balance ! Somehow maybe put them on to fast and not centered
None of these videos or the shop manual show a gasket. Is there not one?
Did you end up bleeding the brakes after awhile or just the initial pedal pump from the video?
Thanks for the video, I'll be doing this during the weekend
I never bled mine. The pedal felt stiff and stopped sinking to the floor. Your results may vary! Good luck!
Thanks for the reply, awesome you didn't need to bleed'em. My hydraulic lines are rusted tight on the master brake cylinder :( so hoping I can crack them open.
Yikes. Make sure you use a line wrench so it doesn't strip! Good luck!
Spray PB Blaster on the brake line nuts a day before you work on it then use a Vise grip to loosen the brake line nuts hope this helps
@@sicsided a line wrench is designed for brake line flare nuts but sometimes they are rounded off then use a vice grip
Great video
Watching this... I was like FOR THE HORDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For the Horde!!!
Next time attach the master to the booster, then pump the brakes until no air bubbles. Less mess.
I would have PB Blasted the bleeder valves and evacuated all of that dirty brake fluid , the vacuum pump makes it a breeze. Just be sure bleeder valves are not frozen you don’t want to break one off.
What size wrench is that?
10mm
Wear gloves when working with automotive fluids...particularly brake fluid
Good point! 👍
@@ModologyMotorsports this helped though man I have a 2006 civic with the pedal basically going to the floor, fluid looks nasty as hell. I bled all 4 sides and it didn't help at all. I think the culprit is the master cylinder!
Sounds like the master cylinder to me. Glad the video helped!
At 7:0 was it a train horn?? Btw, nice vid...thanks
Yes! Good ear. I live near a fairly active track. I think there's a train every 45 min to an hour. I barely even notice them anymore. 😁
@@ModologyMotorsports btw, next time you change brake fluid, cover the reservoir so that wind doesnt throw dust in it. Also use a rag under the master cilynder so that fluid doesn't drip on any part of your car as it is hygroscopic, meaning it tends to absorb water or moisture which might damage/ corrode your paint and build rust on your car parts. 😀
That's good info! Thank you Sir! 👍👍
FOR THE HORDE!!!
needs a re-learn at idle
how do u do that on an older car like this one..??
Honda civic 1999USA mastar
How did you come to a conclusion that it was in fact your master cylinder and not your break booster?
The fluid was black. The seals inside the master cylinder had deteriorated. Plus, I haven't had another problem since I changed it. 👍
Chris Cee brake booster is a completely different symptom. Master cylinder would be sinking pedal brake booster would be stiff as hell pedal
Non Playable Character thanks for letting us know that. That eliminates my problem
How's the pedal feel after driving since the video? Doing mine soon, I grabbed a 1990 EX cylinder (46100-SH4-A11) which is a 15/16 upgrade that fits EG's. th-cam.com/video/Z7Ag9dk44Qk/w-d-xo.html My current one is leaking so bad I'm kind of scared to even pull it off. I'm also going to flip the booster 180 so I can tuck the vacuum hose.
Everything is still fine. Pedal is still nice and stiff! That's a good idea about the booster!
Video was informative but not loud
Enough.to understand.