Well after 15 years of doing it every day I would hope I know something but in truth there is still soo much I don't know. Since it's my show however I can focus on the stuff that I do know so I don't appear so ignorant. Thanks for watching and supporting my friend.
Hey Eric. Thank you for your TH-cam channel ! Can you tell me what size Swivel extension wrench you used on this 300M? I already have the 10MM flair Tubing wrench size. Thanks in advance ! RC in New Hampshire
Thanks for sharing your video Eric - great video btw. Regarding the Master Cylinder bleeding procedure, one alternative that worked really well for me was to perform the bleed procedure while installed on the vehicle, which should ensure air has been purged from the master cylinder prior to reconnecting into the brake system and with minimal brake fluid spillage. Here is how I did it: Prior to proceeding, spray the master cylinder (MC) nuts and brake lines where they connect to the MC with a good lubricant and let it soak ( 1 to 5 minutes depending on how much rust is observed) 1. Place a catch rag under the master cylinder (MC) and disconnect the two attached brake lines and remove the existing unit. As you recommended, disconnecting the MC booster hose, accelerator and cruise control cables (if equipped) from their hold down brackets makes the procedure much easier 2. Install the new MC (one nut snug tight should be sufficient) with the brake lines still detached. If the new MC did not come with the rubber gasket, you may need to use a donor from the old one. 3. Add the bleeder kit per the instructions 4. Top off the brake fluid and pump the brake pedal SLOWLY until all the air bubbles disappear (typically between 15 to 30 pumps) 5. Loosen the MC nut(s) so that there is a little play and remove one of the bleeder hoses and begin threading one of the brake lines by hand (5 to 10 turns should be sufficient) 6. Repeat the same procedure for the last line 7. Tighten both MC mounting nuts to spec (132 inch/lbs) 8. Tighten the MC brakes lines snug tight and wipe down both lines with brake cleaner fluid and paper towel 9. Tighten each line another 1/4 to 1/2 turn or until the fluid no longer drips from the line 10. Ensure the brake reservoir is topped off and pump the brake pedal another 5 to 10 times 11. Recheck the lines for leakage and tighten in 1/4 inch increments until no further leakage is visible 12. Start the vehicle and ensure the pedal firmly stops somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 to the floor 13. If more travel is observed, check for leaks at each wheel and bleed each wheel cylinder per the owner's manual
Hi Eric. Did this little job on my wife's '90 Accord this morning in a little over an hour without a hitch. My rubber gasket thingy stayed with the car and would have caused me lots of head scratching if you hadn't warned me. And while I followed your suggestions to avoid bleeding the brakes, I couldn't imagine air wouldn't get in, so I bled them anyway. Not a single tiny bubble came through. You're the man. Thanks!
excellent tutorial. Never seen the advice about pre-filling and bleeding the master cylinder before fitting before but worked it out for mysdelf many years ago. Another benefit is the M/S seals get lubricated so that there is less chance of them turning themselves inside out when pumping the brakes to bleed the system Probably the most common mistake that causes problems bleeding the braking system. Thanks for posting
Thanks Eric, I followed your technique for a 1999 CRV and it worked well. Because I'm in Aus its on the other side. Master cylinder was fine so I just replaced the slave. First time I've ever done any engine work so even though it was minor I'm pretty stoked it worked. I did it buy my self so the bleeder worked well. Your vid is Nicely edited and put together so it's easy to follow. Got my flared spanners for $25 a set, $49 for the slave online and $5 for the dot 3. Cheap as! Your a legend!
I also shot how I picked it up with my magnet but I didn't have enough time to put it in. I think it's good to show that I make mistakes too just like everyone else, the point in my opinion is to learn from those mistakes, if people learn how I deal with my mistakes I think I'm doing my job the way I've intended all along.
10 plus years later, you're still helping us with this video, sir!!!! Gotta replace the master cylinder on my mint 2002 CR-V and this video really helped me, especially the bench bleeding part. Thank you so much!!!!
14 years old video of yours still very helpful ❤. You have the best mechanic video out there showing us step by step with explanation amd some humour. Thanks again
ACE Man I just fitted a new master cylinder to my ford transit without bleeding and spent ages in the burning sun trying to get some brakes with no luck, Ended up putting my old master back on just so I had some ( dodgy) brake so i could get to work,, NOW I know what to do haha Steady from the UK...
Thank you ERIC ! I am in the jungle in Honduras with no "bleed kit". Your push and then two finger 'bleed kit'. saved my azz......My Ranger now has brakes again... No driving over a cliff for me .. Thanks again... By the way, your camera man is lovely !
If you'll leave the top off of the reservoir after you've installed the new m/c and S-L-O-W-L-Y pump the pedal because pumping hard will shoot fluid out the top... it will give the air a place to escape and 90 percent of the time you won't need to bleed with a wrench/ cracking lines open. .. save you some time and headache.
Did the job today...took a little over an hour. Hardest part was to get that lower 12mm nut back on...dropped it twice. Thanks again for the video. Had no idea how to bench bleed a master cylinder.
Hey Eric I really like your videos. I have recently moved to Mexico and most of the cars here are older models, It would be great that you do videos on corollas (they are real common here) like 85-2000 that way I can help some of the folks that get stranded or dont kniw how to fix minor things like alternator and starter replacement/troubleshooting, drum brake replacement, time belt replacement (this one is a must on 90 corolla$, I havent seen one in youtube for tjis model and year. Thanks a lot u have tought ne alot and saved me tons on bucks .
Well, I'm replacing my master cylinder tomorrow. I have a 1982 Chevy C10 with a 305, nothing special. Found out the fun way that it was time for a new one, almost missed my turn when the pedal went all the way down without even beginning to brake. Then it stayed on the floor board, it was exciting. But I used my feet to pull it back up and I tapped it quickly till I got enough pressure to stop. I'm certainly no mechanic, but I'm learning how to do everything. What better way than to get an old truck and do everything yourself. Thanks for the video, seems quite simple really after watching.
Great video, love your stuff. One thing I noticed and was curious if it was an oversight or left off the video. Why didn't you measure and adjust the brake booster push rod to make sure you had proper clearance with the primary piston?
Eric, another huge THANK YOU! In 2005, we had the MC replaced and I think it was right around $300. But 2 weeks ago, my wife started complaining about spongy brakes so I decided to replace the MC--this time myself. Well, after studying this video a few times, a new $53.99 MC from Autozone and 1.5 hours later last night, VOILA! The hardest thing was gaining access to the MC, but once there it was easy. Thanks again. Your video gave me confidence & saved me, especially learning how to bench bleed.
@phylrick1 I've worked on a few "vintage" cars in my day (One of my favorites was a 50 Olds 98) but to be honest all those "modules" just take the place of the mechanical things you used to be able to adjust, after all the the engine still works the same it just has a plastic cover now, these days it's more a matter of finding the right part to replace, I really don't feel like I "fix" things on modern cars the way I do when I work on older classic vehicles.
Very thorough instructional video--showing how to bleed the master cylinder on the bench as well as on the car.. Didn't know anything about bleeding the brake system before I watched this today. Now I have the confidence to go do it. Thanks a million!
Hey Eric, thank you for the most informative video I have watched for a long time. I don't know much about cars but I really understood through your careful explanation. I have witnessed my father's frustration for the last few days as his brake pads have locked on his car and the local mechanics can not find the issue, until yesterday when a new guy suggested to change the master cylinder. The car is a 1992 Automatic Honda Civic. We collect the car tomorrow so I hold thumbs.
Crankcase ventilation is exactly that, crankcase ventilation. You need intake vacuum, a valve, some hose, and a connection to a high point on the engine to vent as much of the gas buildup as possible.
Hey eric, love the vids. I am in mechanic school and we just got done with the steering and Suspension section and we just started the brakes section. your videos helps me in 2 ways, the first way is by helping me with understanding how things work, the procedure to replace something and how to diagnose something for mechanic school by being able to replay your vids as much as I need, they've helped already. the second is by just watching them and knowing how to do it for future situations.
I just got a new Master Cylinder, and while I was sure I could figure it out, the video made me much more confident that I will succeed in my repair. Thanks Eric.
Another useful video, Eric, Thanks. I just finished rear brakes on my Son's 2001 Jetta, and one of the boots on a rear caliper was torn so I replaced the caliper boot/seal. On finishing, after bleeding, brakes were spongy and I first panicked and thought I needed a new MC. But then I realized that I left the caliper on that wheel a little too wide, and it evidently was open too far for it to automatically adjust itself. When I closed that caliper a little it works great, no need for new MC.
@imthechandyman I used to do it that way till I read the service procedure for Honda and then found out it's actually better to do LF, RR, RF, LR, the reason this works better is that you get the air out of the system faster because you start with the wheel closest to the master, this way you don't pump the air through the entire system before you get it out. I've been doing it this way for a few years now and it works great.
I was going to watch this video in my car while it was connected to the blue tooth and I got the ad where that women is giving birth now it sounds like I was watching hard core porn
When you replace a timing belt it is common practice to replace the water pump at the same time as you have to go through the same procedure to get to it. That Accord has 2 belts, one is a balance belt. A valve adjustment is sort of an elective but if done properly it can make the engine run very smoothly (I did a video on this). As for the interval, time is actually more harmful than miles, things will tend to dry rot over time if they don't get used.
First thing I would do is jack it up and spin the wheels, if you find one that is hanging up that is probably where your problem is, if you find more than one or all 4, look to the master cylinder or booster. Put it in neutral when you try and spin the rear wheels, also use jack stands and don't drop that thing on any part of your body, trucks are heavy and that would hurt. Good luck and keep me posted.
fidel catsro they use coolant to cool engine, not water. when you use water, you have to constantly put water because it evaporates overtime. water is the worst fluid that can used for hydraulic equipment.
fidel catsro It's supposed to be 50% water and 50% coolant. The coolant dissolves into the water and raises the boiling point. I don't know how you do it but 50/50 is how the first world does it.
@thinkAPP1 That sucks. Your only hope now is vice grips, using a line wrench is really important so that the lines don't get stripped. The only way to replace the fasteners is to replace the entire brake line or to cut the end, install an end from another line, and re-flare the end.
@Halljand ANY leaks in the hydraulic system will cause a problem with the brakes. If you have a known leak at a wheel cylinder you need to replace it and bleed the system, then recheck your pedal.
I would start by checking the rear brake adjustment if you have rear drum brakes. In the process look at all the brake parts and see if there are any visible leaks. Then you can check the master cylinder by depressing the pedal lightly with constant pressure, if your able to push it to the floor, replace the master.
Thanks! Was going to take it to the dealer, but after your video decided to do it at home. Wasn't quite as smooth as your install, but my brakes are way better than they were before the job! Thank you again. Great videos.
thank you so much, I just changed my master cylinder, and my reservoir is completely separate, this is the only thing I could find on instructions to bench bleed without the res, thank you so much, and I anticipate I will be watching more of your videos as I do more maintenance on my P.O.S.
awsome videos i own an 95 4 door Gs-R and the videos are such a huge confident booster, i know i can tackle much bigger jobs than i thought i could thanks to your videos being simple and "easy on the eyes" good camera work and explanations. The fact that your working on another acura just makes it that much better for me since its nearly the same as mine
@MegaGertis You may have a problem with the brake booster causing a vacuum leak, try pinching the line that goes to the booster and seeing if the problem still exists, if not then check the booster and it's check valve. Good luck.
Thanks Eric. It has been a long time since I have bled breaks and never had to bleed the master cylinder before. Well, as fate would have it, while bleeding the brakes I overestimated how quickly the fluid would run out and accidentally pumped air into my brake cylinder. I wasn't certain until your video exactly how to go about bleeding the master cylinder, now I am so I'll be off to bleed the system all over again shortly, thanks again.
What a helpful video.... I'm going to replace the master cylinder on our 1988 Honda CRX, but first looked to your video for a little tutorial. Well explained and laid out..... many thanks. You do a great job on your videos of explaining and showing how to do the job.
Thanks alot Eric! I also have to do this job on my accord CB3. I knew it would be a fairly easy job, but now I am way more confident in starting the job thanks to you man! Greetings from Belgium!! Keep up the good work.
Great video. When I did this job I bought new line fittings and had them silver soldered shut. I then used them as plugs and installed the new cylinder and bled it with the brake pedal.
Hey Eric love your stuff all the way over here in Australia. You always explain things in a down to earth straight forward way. After I install a bench primed master cylinder, I always suction fluid back up unto the master from an tube in fluid on each of the front wheels. I just reckon it's more natural that way because the air is closer to the top and would prefer to rise. Everyone's got their preferences and ways, that's just mine. Thanks for the great vids. Love your work.
@GreenBatman93 I would say corrosion is defiantly the issue then. Be mindful that cars that sit suffer way more than cars that get driven so you may have more work ahead.
@syphilistic You are correct,however in 20 years of installing both the factory and aftermarket master cylinders I've never had issue with that adjustment being off. The only time I did see an issue was when a coworker decided to do the adjustment and got it wrong which caused the brakes to lock up. For someone of your obvious skill level I think the pushrod adjustment would be a good idea but for the masses I think it would cause more harm than good to suggest that the adjustment was mandatory.
@mikeischaos If it's the master the pedal slowly sinks to the floor, don't forget to check the entire system for leaks however. If it's the booster the brake pedal is hard as a rock and hard to push.
Excellent video. Wish I had seen it a few weeks ago before I replaced a master cylinder in my 91 Accord. Still, I'm glad I found your video. It gives me some confirmation that I did OK when I replaced mine. For my car, I bought a master cylinder with a new reservoir on it and I'm glad I did. I probably could have cleaned the old reservoir but it looked quite nasty inside,.
Very helpful!! Seems like replacement cylinders should really include plastic tubes that attach to the ports and circulate brake fluid back to the reservoir like you mentioned.
Great video! I got lucky when I replaced my master cylinder. It came with the fittings and hoses. If you don't own a vice or have someone that can help you hold the master cylinder, the 2 fittings and hoses will let you get the job done without a vice by yourself.
usually you pump the pedal 2-3 times then hold...have someone open the line a little and have them fallow the pedal until it goes all the way down(" dont push the pedal fallow the pedal")after the pedal is down then close the lines...pump and repeat as necessary.... hope it helps a little
@300zx93nismo1 You will have to keep bleeding it as you don't have the air out of it yet. Have someone on the bleeder screw on the slave, depress the pedal to the floor, close the bleeder on the slave and pull up on the pedal. Repeat until the pedal returns on it's own.
Eric, your videos are awesome and thorough. I'm about to work on my master cylinder this weekend and this gave me the confidence to do it. I've already replaced my axle after watching "that" video of yours. You're awesome!
@jungleguybest The master is similar I'm sure but probably not exactly the same. As for the brake pedal if the rear brakes are properly adjusted as you suggest the only other adjustment that I can think of is the pushrod for the master, get this wrong however and your day will be much worse than a low pedal. Check the service manual for the procedure.
I'm not sure how much this will help me, but I do teach online, and have to say that Eric was so good to answer questions for a few years even after the original post. I'm having issues with a 1997 Saturn (my daughter's), and am having soft-pedal issues after changing rear brake pads and cylinders. Perhaps the Master Cylinder is the issue.
If it's just soft, I'd start with bleeding them. That's probably the problem. He won't have time to make videos if he replies to everyone anymore, so other than people like me who help him with fans, go to www.ericthecarguy.com. It's my way of paying Eric back for teaching me so much.
@drewndallas 2 separate problems. The pedal problem is likely the master cylinder, the idle problem could be a problem with the AC or the idle circuit, hard to say witch but look into both.
hey eric i was wondering if we bench bleed the master cylinder the way you showed, do we still need to bleed the brakes at the caliper? thank you for all your great videos!! you are the bomb dude!!
@syphilistic The truth is that you should never mess with the push rod adjustment, once it is set at the factory it should be left alone. If it needs to be set (at least on Honda's) there is a special tool that is used.
@keasy84 Good question and to be honest I'm not exactly sure. You might try holding your finger under the bottom port and fasten that lower hose first before the others, this may get you what you need. Good luck.
@Soulfly1134 Sounds like you need a master cylinder to me. The thing it's bolted to is referred to as the "booster" as it is a vacuum booster there to help with the assist during brake application.
I have a 1999 Chrysler Town and Country 3.8L 2WD with ABS/Trac. Changed rear axle. Bled brakes at all 4 wheels. Pedal got tight, felt good. Started the van and pedal went all the way to the floor. No fluid leaking under dash or visibly from any ports or connections. The spot where the master cylinder mates to the booster and that looks wet. Guess I will replace the MC and look for fluid in booster. Thanks for your videos.
So I replaced the MC and everything was dry and looked good at the booster. Bench bled per instructions. Couldn't get quite all the tiny bubbles out of the port nearest the fire wall. Pedal feels tighter, definitely feel more stopping power but brakes are slight bit soft. Gonna bleed them one more time.
@amimemeami Yes brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture and as a result the boiling point is lowered so you are correct in your theory. It's not a bad idea to replace the rest of the fluid but most of it was replaced when the master was replaced on this car.
I had to clean and replace everything in an entire brake system once because someone accidentally put automatic transmission fluid in place of brake fluid. I would suggest having the system flushed as soon as possible. The issue that the transmission fluid caused was a swelling and degradation of all the rubber seals in the system causing a complete failure of the braking system. I don't know if ps fluid would cause the same thing but brakes are pretty important.
Thanks man , It had been awhile. You definitely know your stuff and how to clearly explain in a way everyone should be able to understand. I like that little comment you made about not getting to excited about the master cylinder sucking your fingers. Have a great day.
@scar122000 Probably not going to update this video unless it's a different make. Glad the videos help though and that your doing well in school, keep up the good work.
That's a tall order but exactly what I've set out to do. If ETCG takes off I have every intention on making it my full time occupation if I can make a living at it. Hopefully before the end of the year the longer more "in depth" videos will be available from the website as downloads and DVD's. If I get partnered on YT that could be a source of revenue as well, I have my fingers crossed. For now I'm just happy with the response and helping people get were they are going.
@Michiganborn1969 If you perform the procedure in the video bleeding at the wheels should not be necessary. But if you need to bleed them the order is LF, RR to RF to LR.
@oscarasz1 I would replace it. Anytime you find a leak in the brake system it should be addressed and if you find it leaking at the master I think it's a good idea to replace it.
I wish there was some way I could contribute to you sir. You have save me thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars. I want to thank you for taking the time to help people like myself
Eric you are awesome man its good to see your videos on TH-cam my friends have gotten me into cars a few years back and I wanna learn how stuff works plus I wanna at least be able to work on my car and know what to do and what not to do. thanks again man I'm learning a lot 👍
Depends on if you bleed the master on the car correctly whether or not you have to bleed it at the wheels. The master cylinder is not what makes the difference between a car with drum and a car with disc brakes, that's part of the proportioning circuit. Use the part that is called for with your car and you should be fine.
In a situation like that my first suspect is an error by the person that installed it. If it were me I would take it back where I got it fixed and see if perhaps they might take a look, maybe it's just something that is loose or needs adjusting that is the cause.
Bench bleeding the master cylinder before installation is always the professional way to work, and it's so much quicker and easier than trying to bleed the cylinder after it's on the car. Yes, after you've bench-bled it you'll need to bleed it again one you reconnect the brake lines, but it will be a *much* faster process since you'll already have most of the air out of it.
Well after 15 years of doing it every day I would hope I know something but in truth there is still soo much I don't know. Since it's my show however I can focus on the stuff that I do know so I don't appear so ignorant. Thanks for watching and supporting my friend.
Hey Eric. Thank you for your TH-cam channel ! Can you tell me what size Swivel extension wrench you used on this 300M? I already have the 10MM flair Tubing wrench size. Thanks in advance ! RC in New Hampshire
remembering the good old days with Eric the car guy before he became successful-and went commercial missed this guy.
Thanks for sharing your video Eric - great video btw.
Regarding the Master Cylinder bleeding procedure, one alternative that worked really well for me was to perform the bleed procedure while installed on the vehicle, which should ensure air has been purged from the master cylinder prior to reconnecting into the brake system and with minimal brake fluid spillage. Here is how I did it:
Prior to proceeding, spray the master cylinder (MC) nuts and brake lines where they connect to the MC with a good lubricant and let it soak ( 1 to 5 minutes depending on how much rust is observed)
1. Place a catch rag under the master cylinder (MC) and disconnect the two attached brake lines and remove the existing unit. As you recommended, disconnecting the MC booster hose, accelerator and cruise control cables (if equipped) from their hold down brackets makes the procedure much easier
2. Install the new MC (one nut snug tight should be sufficient) with the brake lines still detached. If the new MC did not come with the rubber gasket, you may need to use a donor from the old one.
3. Add the bleeder kit per the instructions
4. Top off the brake fluid and pump the brake pedal SLOWLY until all the air bubbles disappear (typically between 15 to 30 pumps)
5. Loosen the MC nut(s) so that there is a little play and remove one of the bleeder hoses and begin threading one of the brake lines by hand (5 to 10 turns should be sufficient)
6. Repeat the same procedure for the last line
7. Tighten both MC mounting nuts to spec (132 inch/lbs)
8. Tighten the MC brakes lines snug tight and wipe down both lines with brake cleaner fluid and paper towel
9. Tighten each line another 1/4 to 1/2 turn or until the fluid no longer drips from the line
10. Ensure the brake reservoir is topped off and pump the brake pedal another 5 to 10 times
11. Recheck the lines for leakage and tighten in 1/4 inch increments until no further leakage is visible
12. Start the vehicle and ensure the pedal firmly stops somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 to the floor
13. If more travel is observed, check for leaks at each wheel and bleed each wheel cylinder per the owner's manual
Hi Eric. Did this little job on my wife's '90 Accord this morning in a little over an hour without a hitch. My rubber gasket thingy stayed with the car and would have caused me lots of head scratching if you hadn't warned me. And while I followed your suggestions to avoid bleeding the brakes, I couldn't imagine air wouldn't get in, so I bled them anyway. Not a single tiny bubble came through. You're the man. Thanks!
excellent tutorial.
Never seen the advice about pre-filling and bleeding the master cylinder before fitting before but worked it out for mysdelf many years ago. Another benefit is the M/S seals get lubricated so that there is less chance of them turning themselves inside out when pumping the brakes to bleed the system
Probably the most common mistake that causes problems bleeding the braking system.
Thanks for posting
Thanks Eric, I followed your technique for a 1999 CRV and it worked well. Because I'm in Aus its on the other side. Master cylinder was fine so I just replaced the slave. First time I've ever done any engine work so even though it was minor I'm pretty stoked it worked. I did it buy my self so the bleeder worked well. Your vid is Nicely edited and put together so it's easy to follow. Got my flared spanners for $25 a set, $49 for the slave online and $5 for the dot 3. Cheap as! Your a legend!
I also shot how I picked it up with my magnet but I didn't have enough time to put it in. I think it's good to show that I make mistakes too just like everyone else, the point in my opinion is to learn from those mistakes, if people learn how I deal with my mistakes I think I'm doing my job the way I've intended all along.
10 plus years later, you're still helping us with this video, sir!!!! Gotta replace the master cylinder on my mint 2002 CR-V and this video really helped me, especially the bench bleeding part. Thank you so much!!!!
It might suck on your fingers but don't get too excited lol
Yeah, I would need some more time to deliver such a great line.
Lol
14 years old video of yours still very helpful ❤. You have the best mechanic video out there showing us step by step with explanation amd some humour. Thanks again
ACE Man I just fitted a new master cylinder to my ford transit without bleeding and spent ages in the burning sun trying to get some brakes with no luck, Ended up putting my old master back on just so I had some ( dodgy) brake so i could get to work,, NOW I know what to do haha Steady from the UK...
Yeah man, I'm sure that's where I'd be on this repair without having watched this.
Thank you ERIC ! I am in the jungle in Honduras with no "bleed kit". Your push and then two finger 'bleed kit'. saved my azz......My Ranger now has brakes again... No driving over a cliff for me .. Thanks again... By the way, your camera man is lovely !
If you'll leave the top off of the reservoir after you've installed the new m/c and S-L-O-W-L-Y pump the pedal because pumping hard will shoot fluid out the top... it will give the air a place to escape and 90 percent of the time you won't need to bleed with a wrench/ cracking lines open. .. save you some time and headache.
Did the job today...took a little over an hour. Hardest part was to get that lower 12mm nut back on...dropped it twice. Thanks again for the video. Had no idea how to bench bleed a master cylinder.
Hey Eric I really like your videos.
I have recently moved to Mexico and most of the cars here are older models, It would be great that you do videos on corollas (they are real common here) like 85-2000 that way I can help some of the folks that get stranded or dont kniw how to fix minor things like alternator and starter replacement/troubleshooting, drum brake replacement, time belt replacement (this one is a must on 90 corolla$, I havent seen one in youtube for tjis model and year.
Thanks a lot u have tought ne alot and saved me tons on bucks .
who moves to mexico? on purpose anyway. are you a fugitive from justice? cool.
Well, I'm replacing my master cylinder tomorrow. I have a 1982 Chevy C10 with a 305, nothing special. Found out the fun way that it was time for a new one, almost missed my turn when the pedal went all the way down without even beginning to brake. Then it stayed on the floor board, it was exciting. But I used my feet to pull it back up and I tapped it quickly till I got enough pressure to stop. I'm certainly no mechanic, but I'm learning how to do everything. What better way than to get an old truck and do everything yourself. Thanks for the video, seems quite simple really after watching.
Great video, love your stuff. One thing I noticed and was curious if it was an oversight or left off the video. Why didn't you measure and adjust the brake booster push rod to make sure you had proper clearance with the primary piston?
Eric, another huge THANK YOU! In 2005, we had the MC replaced and I think it was right around $300. But 2 weeks ago, my wife started complaining about spongy brakes so I decided to replace the MC--this time myself. Well, after studying this video a few times, a new $53.99 MC from Autozone and 1.5 hours later last night, VOILA! The hardest thing was gaining access to the MC, but once there it was easy. Thanks again. Your video gave me confidence & saved me, especially learning how to bench bleed.
@phylrick1 I've worked on a few "vintage" cars in my day (One of my favorites was a 50 Olds 98) but to be honest all those "modules" just take the place of the mechanical things you used to be able to adjust, after all the the engine still works the same it just has a plastic cover now, these days it's more a matter of finding the right part to replace, I really don't feel like I "fix" things on modern cars the way I do when I work on older classic vehicles.
Very thorough instructional video--showing how to bleed the master cylinder on the bench as well as on the car.. Didn't know anything about bleeding the brake system before I watched this today. Now I have the confidence to go do it. Thanks a million!
Eric you rock! Love your vids. They've helped many times and saved me the expense of having a mechanic fix my vehicles. Keep up the awesome work!!
Hey Eric, thank you for the most informative video I have watched for a long time. I don't know much about cars but I really understood through your careful explanation. I have witnessed my father's frustration for the last few days as his brake pads have locked on his car and the local mechanics can not find the issue, until yesterday when a new guy suggested to change the master cylinder. The car is a 1992 Automatic Honda Civic. We collect the car tomorrow so I hold thumbs.
"You might feel it sucking on your fingers a little bit but don't get too excited" hahahaha
Crankcase ventilation is exactly that, crankcase ventilation. You need intake vacuum, a valve, some hose, and a connection to a high point on the engine to vent as much of the gas buildup as possible.
Great acting from Bruce Jenner
That's a very offensive thing to say to Assistant Rob, no one deserves to be called by the name of "it".
jamaicans just jamaicans you can expect this from them
So he doesn't look like bruce?
Or The Riddler in civilian clothes
This comment is the gutz lol
Hey eric, love the vids. I am in mechanic school and we just got done with the steering and Suspension section and we just started the brakes section. your videos helps me in 2 ways, the first way is by helping me with understanding how things work, the procedure to replace something and how to diagnose something for mechanic school by being able to replay your vids as much as I need, they've helped already. the second is by just watching them and knowing how to do it for future situations.
"LOvely Assistant Rob" looks exactly like "Concerned Customer"
I just got a new Master Cylinder, and while I was sure I could figure it out, the video made me much more confident that I will succeed in my repair.
Thanks Eric.
When I watched this video I kept smelling brake fluid and feeling it's weird rubbery oiliness on my hands.
i masturbated thru the whole thing and climaxed when i saw bruce jenner
You invented a new way of circumcision Mike
Another useful video, Eric, Thanks.
I just finished rear brakes on my Son's 2001 Jetta, and one of the boots on a rear caliper was torn so I replaced the caliper boot/seal. On finishing, after bleeding, brakes were spongy and I first panicked and thought I needed a new MC. But then I realized that I left the caliper on that wheel a little too wide, and it evidently was open too far for it to automatically adjust itself. When I closed that caliper a little it works great, no need for new MC.
I'm here for the acting.
@imthechandyman I used to do it that way till I read the service procedure for Honda and then found out it's actually better to do LF, RR, RF, LR, the reason this works better is that you get the air out of the system faster because you start with the wheel closest to the master, this way you don't pump the air through the entire system before you get it out. I've been doing it this way for a few years now and it works great.
I was going to watch this video in my car while it was connected to the blue tooth and I got the ad where that women is giving birth now it sounds like I was watching hard core porn
When you replace a timing belt it is common practice to replace the water pump at the same time as you have to go through the same procedure to get to it. That Accord has 2 belts, one is a balance belt. A valve adjustment is sort of an elective but if done properly it can make the engine run very smoothly (I did a video on this). As for the interval, time is actually more harmful than miles, things will tend to dry rot over time if they don't get used.
Bruce jenner?
well, maybe before he turned into a freakazoid
First thing I would do is jack it up and spin the wheels, if you find one that is hanging up that is probably where your problem is, if you find more than one or all 4, look to the master cylinder or booster. Put it in neutral when you try and spin the rear wheels, also use jack stands and don't drop that thing on any part of your body, trucks are heavy and that would hurt. Good luck and keep me posted.
man that was tough...why cant we just have brakes that use water as fluid to get Pascals law into motion?..he reminds me of John Lennon
fidel catsro water evaporates when heated. so nawwww
So make a cooling radiator for it hehehe, if they can use water to cool engine, keeping hydraulic water from heating into vapor should be cat food
fidel catsro they use coolant to cool engine, not water. when you use water, you have to constantly put water because it evaporates overtime. water is the worst fluid that can used for hydraulic equipment.
Yes sir amigos 90percent water 10percen coolant more of less.its still mainly wateros
fidel catsro It's supposed to be 50% water and 50% coolant. The coolant dissolves into the water and raises the boiling point.
I don't know how you do it but 50/50 is how the first world does it.
@thinkAPP1 That sucks. Your only hope now is vice grips, using a line wrench is really important so that the lines don't get stripped. The only way to replace the fasteners is to replace the entire brake line or to cut the end, install an end from another line, and re-flare the end.
Dirty hands are happy hands.
@Halljand ANY leaks in the hydraulic system will cause a problem with the brakes. If you have a known leak at a wheel cylinder you need to replace it and bleed the system, then recheck your pedal.
Holy crap I thought that was Bruce Jenner at first.
I would start by checking the rear brake adjustment if you have rear drum brakes. In the process look at all the brake parts and see if there are any visible leaks. Then you can check the master cylinder by depressing the pedal lightly with constant pressure, if your able to push it to the floor, replace the master.
8:05
Is Rob gay?
Does it matter? Are you a bigotty ass douche queef?
Lol, triggered
Looking for a date?
Most people get "triggered" by severe stupidity. You're on the wrong side of history bub.
The best video and especially “editing” on TH-cam on the subject of car-break-system. THANK YOU!
@shatros I'm glad I was able to help, thanks for the comment.
Thanks! Was going to take it to the dealer, but after your video decided to do it at home. Wasn't quite as smooth as your install, but my brakes are way better than they were before the job! Thank you again. Great videos.
I love comments like this, thanks, I'm glad I was able to help.
thank you so much, I just changed my master cylinder, and my reservoir is completely separate, this is the only thing I could find on instructions to bench bleed without the res, thank you so much, and I anticipate I will be watching more of your videos as I do more maintenance on my P.O.S.
awsome videos i own an 95 4 door Gs-R and the videos are such a huge confident booster, i know i can tackle much bigger jobs than i thought i could thanks to your videos being simple and "easy on the eyes" good camera work and explanations. The fact that your working on another acura just makes it that much better for me since its nearly the same as mine
@MegaGertis You may have a problem with the brake booster causing a vacuum leak, try pinching the line that goes to the booster and seeing if the problem still exists, if not then check the booster and it's check valve. Good luck.
Thanks Eric. It has been a long time since I have bled breaks and never had to bleed the master cylinder before. Well, as fate would have it, while bleeding the brakes I overestimated how quickly the fluid would run out and accidentally pumped air into my brake cylinder. I wasn't certain until your video exactly how to go about bleeding the master cylinder, now I am so I'll be off to bleed the system all over again shortly, thanks again.
What a helpful video.... I'm going to replace the master cylinder on our 1988 Honda CRX, but first looked to your video for a little tutorial. Well explained and laid out..... many thanks. You do a great job on your videos of explaining and showing how to do the job.
Thanks alot Eric! I also have to do this job on my accord CB3. I knew it would be a fairly easy job, but now I am way more confident in starting the job thanks to you man!
Greetings from Belgium!! Keep up the good work.
Great video. When I did this job I bought new line fittings and had them silver soldered shut. I then used them as plugs and installed the new cylinder and bled it with the brake pedal.
Hey Eric love your stuff all the way over here in Australia. You always explain things in a down to earth straight forward way. After I install a bench primed master cylinder, I always suction fluid back up unto the master from an tube in fluid on each of the front wheels. I just reckon it's more natural that way because the air is closer to the top and would prefer to rise. Everyone's got their preferences and ways, that's just mine. Thanks for the great vids. Love your work.
I had to think about it before I got it, but yes, that'd remove the air off the top to start. What do you do use to suction it up with?
@GreenBatman93 I would say corrosion is defiantly the issue then. Be mindful that cars that sit suffer way more than cars that get driven so you may have more work ahead.
@driftster99 I'm glad I was able to help, see being dirty isn't so bad.
@syphilistic You are correct,however in 20 years of installing both the factory and aftermarket master cylinders I've never had issue with that adjustment being off. The only time I did see an issue was when a coworker decided to do the adjustment and got it wrong which caused the brakes to lock up. For someone of your obvious skill level I think the pushrod adjustment would be a good idea but for the masses I think it would cause more harm than good to suggest that the adjustment was mandatory.
@1834Benji Happy to help, thanks for the comment.
@mikeischaos If it's the master the pedal slowly sinks to the floor, don't forget to check the entire system for leaks however. If it's the booster the brake pedal is hard as a rock and hard to push.
I love all your videos. If ever I have a question about something I’m doing on my car, your videos are my number one “go to”! Thanks EricTheCarGuy
Excellent video. Wish I had seen it a few weeks ago before I replaced a master cylinder in my 91 Accord. Still, I'm glad I found your video. It gives me some confirmation that I did OK when I replaced mine. For my car, I bought a master cylinder with a new reservoir on it and I'm glad I did. I probably could have cleaned the old reservoir but it looked quite nasty inside,.
Very helpful!! Seems like replacement cylinders should really include plastic tubes that attach to the ports and circulate brake fluid back to the reservoir like you mentioned.
Great video! I got lucky when I replaced my master cylinder. It came with the fittings and hoses. If you don't own a vice or have someone that can help you hold the master cylinder, the 2 fittings and hoses will let you get the job done without a vice by yourself.
usually you pump the pedal 2-3 times then hold...have someone open the line a little and have them fallow the pedal until it goes all the way down(" dont push the pedal fallow the pedal")after the pedal is down then close the lines...pump and repeat as necessary.... hope it helps a little
@300zx93nismo1 You will have to keep bleeding it as you don't have the air out of it yet. Have someone on the bleeder screw on the slave, depress the pedal to the floor, close the bleeder on the slave and pull up on the pedal. Repeat until the pedal returns on it's own.
@WilJamz Be sure to check for leaks in the system first and adjust the rear brakes before you commit to the master cylinder. Good luck.
Eric, your videos are awesome and thorough. I'm about to work on my master cylinder this weekend and this gave me the confidence to do it. I've already replaced my axle after watching "that" video of yours. You're awesome!
@jungleguybest The master is similar I'm sure but probably not exactly the same. As for the brake pedal if the rear brakes are properly adjusted as you suggest the only other adjustment that I can think of is the pushrod for the master, get this wrong however and your day will be much worse than a low pedal. Check the service manual for the procedure.
I'm not sure how much this will help me, but I do teach online, and have to say that Eric was so good to answer questions for a few years even after the original post. I'm having issues with a 1997 Saturn (my daughter's), and am having soft-pedal issues after changing rear brake pads and cylinders. Perhaps the Master Cylinder is the issue.
If it's just soft, I'd start with bleeding them. That's probably the problem. He won't have time to make videos if he replies to everyone anymore, so other than people like me who help him with fans, go to www.ericthecarguy.com.
It's my way of paying Eric back for teaching me so much.
@drewndallas 2 separate problems. The pedal problem is likely the master cylinder, the idle problem could be a problem with the AC or the idle circuit, hard to say witch but look into both.
hey eric i was wondering if we bench bleed the master cylinder the way you showed, do we still need to bleed the brakes at the caliper? thank you for all your great videos!! you are the bomb dude!!
@syphilistic The truth is that you should never mess with the push rod adjustment, once it is set at the factory it should be left alone. If it needs to be set (at least on Honda's) there is a special tool that is used.
@keasy84 Good question and to be honest I'm not exactly sure. You might try holding your finger under the bottom port and fasten that lower hose first before the others, this may get you what you need. Good luck.
i look forward to fixing cars because i learn so much from you eric, and its just good fun problem solving. thank you for what you do!
@Soulfly1134 Sounds like you need a master cylinder to me. The thing it's bolted to is referred to as the "booster" as it is a vacuum booster there to help with the assist during brake application.
I have a 1999 Chrysler Town and Country 3.8L 2WD with ABS/Trac. Changed rear axle. Bled brakes at all 4 wheels. Pedal got tight, felt good. Started the van and pedal went all the way to the floor. No fluid leaking under dash or visibly from any ports or connections. The spot where the master cylinder mates to the booster and that looks wet. Guess I will replace the MC and look for fluid in booster. Thanks for your videos.
So I replaced the MC and everything was dry and looked good at the booster. Bench bled per instructions. Couldn't get quite all the tiny bubbles out of the port nearest the fire wall. Pedal feels tighter, definitely feel more stopping power but brakes are slight bit soft. Gonna bleed them one more time.
Rusty Ridgway That happens to me a lot when I think I'm done, I drive around for a bit, or even a while, and then I think, this needs more bleeding.
@amimemeami Yes brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture and as a result the boiling point is lowered so you are correct in your theory. It's not a bad idea to replace the rest of the fluid but most of it was replaced when the master was replaced on this car.
I had to clean and replace everything in an entire brake system once because someone accidentally put automatic transmission fluid in place of brake fluid. I would suggest having the system flushed as soon as possible. The issue that the transmission fluid caused was a swelling and degradation of all the rubber seals in the system causing a complete failure of the braking system. I don't know if ps fluid would cause the same thing but brakes are pretty important.
I'm going to do this to my Chevy Camaro and am feeling more confident after watching this! Thank you so much for the helpful information.
Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
@Dragonfly7111 The caliper may be bad. The special tool helps too so if you aren't using one you might want to try one just to be sure.
Thanks man , It had been awhile. You definitely know your stuff and how to clearly explain in a way everyone should be able to understand. I like that little comment you made about not getting to excited about the master cylinder sucking your fingers. Have a great day.
@scar122000 Probably not going to update this video unless it's a different make. Glad the videos help though and that your doing well in school, keep up the good work.
@niteworker709 Good luck. I would not recommend adjusting the push rod unless there was a problem.
That's a tall order but exactly what I've set out to do. If ETCG takes off I have every intention on making it my full time occupation if I can make a living at it. Hopefully before the end of the year the longer more "in depth" videos will be available from the website as downloads and DVD's. If I get partnered on YT that could be a source of revenue as well, I have my fingers crossed. For now I'm just happy with the response and helping people get were they are going.
@Michiganborn1969 If you perform the procedure in the video bleeding at the wheels should not be necessary. But if you need to bleed them the order is LF, RR to RF to LR.
@oscarasz1 I would replace it. Anytime you find a leak in the brake system it should be addressed and if you find it leaking at the master I think it's a good idea to replace it.
I wish there was some way I could contribute to you sir. You have save me thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars. I want to thank you for taking the time to help people like myself
@brandon94565 I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
Eric you are awesome man its good to see your videos on TH-cam my friends have gotten me into cars a few years back and I wanna learn how stuff works plus I wanna at least be able to work on my car and know what to do and what not to do. thanks again man I'm learning a lot 👍
@xXfame87Xx Glad to help, thanks for the comment.
Depends on if you bleed the master on the car correctly whether or not you have to bleed it at the wheels. The master cylinder is not what makes the difference between a car with drum and a car with disc brakes, that's part of the proportioning circuit. Use the part that is called for with your car and you should be fine.
@lasersdend15 2 things turn the brake light on, the parking brake and low brake fluid. Make sure your are topped up and don't have any leaks.
In a situation like that my first suspect is an error by the person that installed it. If it were me I would take it back where I got it fixed and see if perhaps they might take a look, maybe it's just something that is loose or needs adjusting that is the cause.
Just changed the master cylinder on my work van using this video, worked like a charm, thanks Eric!
@d46512 In this case it would have no effect other than I wouldn't have to fill the master as much. There is no psi in the reservoir BTW.
Thank you ETCG for all your of back yard mechanic helpful hints and tips over the years. Totally dirty over here.
Bench bleeding the master cylinder before installation is always the professional way to work, and it's so much quicker and easier than trying to bleed the cylinder after it's on the car. Yes, after you've bench-bled it you'll need to bleed it again one you reconnect the brake lines, but it will be a *much* faster process since you'll already have most of the air out of it.
You have turned my husband Joey Pauga into a mechanic stud!!! Thanks for teaching him something that he really enjoys doing.