Well after 15 years of doing it every day I would hope I know something but in truth there is still soo much I don't know. Since it's my show however I can focus on the stuff that I do know so I don't appear so ignorant. Thanks for watching and supporting my friend.
Hey Eric. Thank you for your TH-cam channel ! Can you tell me what size Swivel extension wrench you used on this 300M? I already have the 10MM flair Tubing wrench size. Thanks in advance ! RC in New Hampshire
Thanks for sharing your video Eric - great video btw. Regarding the Master Cylinder bleeding procedure, one alternative that worked really well for me was to perform the bleed procedure while installed on the vehicle, which should ensure air has been purged from the master cylinder prior to reconnecting into the brake system and with minimal brake fluid spillage. Here is how I did it: Prior to proceeding, spray the master cylinder (MC) nuts and brake lines where they connect to the MC with a good lubricant and let it soak ( 1 to 5 minutes depending on how much rust is observed) 1. Place a catch rag under the master cylinder (MC) and disconnect the two attached brake lines and remove the existing unit. As you recommended, disconnecting the MC booster hose, accelerator and cruise control cables (if equipped) from their hold down brackets makes the procedure much easier 2. Install the new MC (one nut snug tight should be sufficient) with the brake lines still detached. If the new MC did not come with the rubber gasket, you may need to use a donor from the old one. 3. Add the bleeder kit per the instructions 4. Top off the brake fluid and pump the brake pedal SLOWLY until all the air bubbles disappear (typically between 15 to 30 pumps) 5. Loosen the MC nut(s) so that there is a little play and remove one of the bleeder hoses and begin threading one of the brake lines by hand (5 to 10 turns should be sufficient) 6. Repeat the same procedure for the last line 7. Tighten both MC mounting nuts to spec (132 inch/lbs) 8. Tighten the MC brakes lines snug tight and wipe down both lines with brake cleaner fluid and paper towel 9. Tighten each line another 1/4 to 1/2 turn or until the fluid no longer drips from the line 10. Ensure the brake reservoir is topped off and pump the brake pedal another 5 to 10 times 11. Recheck the lines for leakage and tighten in 1/4 inch increments until no further leakage is visible 12. Start the vehicle and ensure the pedal firmly stops somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 to the floor 13. If more travel is observed, check for leaks at each wheel and bleed each wheel cylinder per the owner's manual
Hi Eric. Did this little job on my wife's '90 Accord this morning in a little over an hour without a hitch. My rubber gasket thingy stayed with the car and would have caused me lots of head scratching if you hadn't warned me. And while I followed your suggestions to avoid bleeding the brakes, I couldn't imagine air wouldn't get in, so I bled them anyway. Not a single tiny bubble came through. You're the man. Thanks!
I also shot how I picked it up with my magnet but I didn't have enough time to put it in. I think it's good to show that I make mistakes too just like everyone else, the point in my opinion is to learn from those mistakes, if people learn how I deal with my mistakes I think I'm doing my job the way I've intended all along.
Thank you ERIC ! I am in the jungle in Honduras with no "bleed kit". Your push and then two finger 'bleed kit'. saved my azz......My Ranger now has brakes again... No driving over a cliff for me .. Thanks again... By the way, your camera man is lovely !
excellent tutorial. Never seen the advice about pre-filling and bleeding the master cylinder before fitting before but worked it out for mysdelf many years ago. Another benefit is the M/S seals get lubricated so that there is less chance of them turning themselves inside out when pumping the brakes to bleed the system Probably the most common mistake that causes problems bleeding the braking system. Thanks for posting
Thanks Eric, I followed your technique for a 1999 CRV and it worked well. Because I'm in Aus its on the other side. Master cylinder was fine so I just replaced the slave. First time I've ever done any engine work so even though it was minor I'm pretty stoked it worked. I did it buy my self so the bleeder worked well. Your vid is Nicely edited and put together so it's easy to follow. Got my flared spanners for $25 a set, $49 for the slave online and $5 for the dot 3. Cheap as! Your a legend!
ACE Man I just fitted a new master cylinder to my ford transit without bleeding and spent ages in the burning sun trying to get some brakes with no luck, Ended up putting my old master back on just so I had some ( dodgy) brake so i could get to work,, NOW I know what to do haha Steady from the UK...
10 plus years later, you're still helping us with this video, sir!!!! Gotta replace the master cylinder on my mint 2002 CR-V and this video really helped me, especially the bench bleeding part. Thank you so much!!!!
14 years old video of yours still very helpful ❤. You have the best mechanic video out there showing us step by step with explanation amd some humour. Thanks again
If you'll leave the top off of the reservoir after you've installed the new m/c and S-L-O-W-L-Y pump the pedal because pumping hard will shoot fluid out the top... it will give the air a place to escape and 90 percent of the time you won't need to bleed with a wrench/ cracking lines open. .. save you some time and headache.
@Halljand ANY leaks in the hydraulic system will cause a problem with the brakes. If you have a known leak at a wheel cylinder you need to replace it and bleed the system, then recheck your pedal.
Great video, love your stuff. One thing I noticed and was curious if it was an oversight or left off the video. Why didn't you measure and adjust the brake booster push rod to make sure you had proper clearance with the primary piston?
Did the job today...took a little over an hour. Hardest part was to get that lower 12mm nut back on...dropped it twice. Thanks again for the video. Had no idea how to bench bleed a master cylinder.
@phylrick1 I've worked on a few "vintage" cars in my day (One of my favorites was a 50 Olds 98) but to be honest all those "modules" just take the place of the mechanical things you used to be able to adjust, after all the the engine still works the same it just has a plastic cover now, these days it's more a matter of finding the right part to replace, I really don't feel like I "fix" things on modern cars the way I do when I work on older classic vehicles.
I just got a new Master Cylinder, and while I was sure I could figure it out, the video made me much more confident that I will succeed in my repair. Thanks Eric.
Hey Eric I really like your videos. I have recently moved to Mexico and most of the cars here are older models, It would be great that you do videos on corollas (they are real common here) like 85-2000 that way I can help some of the folks that get stranded or dont kniw how to fix minor things like alternator and starter replacement/troubleshooting, drum brake replacement, time belt replacement (this one is a must on 90 corolla$, I havent seen one in youtube for tjis model and year. Thanks a lot u have tought ne alot and saved me tons on bucks .
@Soulfly1134 Sounds like you need a master cylinder to me. The thing it's bolted to is referred to as the "booster" as it is a vacuum booster there to help with the assist during brake application.
Very thorough instructional video--showing how to bleed the master cylinder on the bench as well as on the car.. Didn't know anything about bleeding the brake system before I watched this today. Now I have the confidence to go do it. Thanks a million!
Hey Eric, thank you for the most informative video I have watched for a long time. I don't know much about cars but I really understood through your careful explanation. I have witnessed my father's frustration for the last few days as his brake pads have locked on his car and the local mechanics can not find the issue, until yesterday when a new guy suggested to change the master cylinder. The car is a 1992 Automatic Honda Civic. We collect the car tomorrow so I hold thumbs.
Eric, another huge THANK YOU! In 2005, we had the MC replaced and I think it was right around $300. But 2 weeks ago, my wife started complaining about spongy brakes so I decided to replace the MC--this time myself. Well, after studying this video a few times, a new $53.99 MC from Autozone and 1.5 hours later last night, VOILA! The hardest thing was gaining access to the MC, but once there it was easy. Thanks again. Your video gave me confidence & saved me, especially learning how to bench bleed.
Well, I'm replacing my master cylinder tomorrow. I have a 1982 Chevy C10 with a 305, nothing special. Found out the fun way that it was time for a new one, almost missed my turn when the pedal went all the way down without even beginning to brake. Then it stayed on the floor board, it was exciting. But I used my feet to pull it back up and I tapped it quickly till I got enough pressure to stop. I'm certainly no mechanic, but I'm learning how to do everything. What better way than to get an old truck and do everything yourself. Thanks for the video, seems quite simple really after watching.
@drewndallas 2 separate problems. The pedal problem is likely the master cylinder, the idle problem could be a problem with the AC or the idle circuit, hard to say witch but look into both.
I was going to watch this video in my car while it was connected to the blue tooth and I got the ad where that women is giving birth now it sounds like I was watching hard core porn
@MegaGertis You may have a problem with the brake booster causing a vacuum leak, try pinching the line that goes to the booster and seeing if the problem still exists, if not then check the booster and it's check valve. Good luck.
fidel catsro they use coolant to cool engine, not water. when you use water, you have to constantly put water because it evaporates overtime. water is the worst fluid that can used for hydraulic equipment.
fidel catsro It's supposed to be 50% water and 50% coolant. The coolant dissolves into the water and raises the boiling point. I don't know how you do it but 50/50 is how the first world does it.
I would start by checking the rear brake adjustment if you have rear drum brakes. In the process look at all the brake parts and see if there are any visible leaks. Then you can check the master cylinder by depressing the pedal lightly with constant pressure, if your able to push it to the floor, replace the master.
@GreenBatman93 I would say corrosion is defiantly the issue then. Be mindful that cars that sit suffer way more than cars that get driven so you may have more work ahead.
Hey eric, love the vids. I am in mechanic school and we just got done with the steering and Suspension section and we just started the brakes section. your videos helps me in 2 ways, the first way is by helping me with understanding how things work, the procedure to replace something and how to diagnose something for mechanic school by being able to replay your vids as much as I need, they've helped already. the second is by just watching them and knowing how to do it for future situations.
@imthechandyman I used to do it that way till I read the service procedure for Honda and then found out it's actually better to do LF, RR, RF, LR, the reason this works better is that you get the air out of the system faster because you start with the wheel closest to the master, this way you don't pump the air through the entire system before you get it out. I've been doing it this way for a few years now and it works great.
When you replace a timing belt it is common practice to replace the water pump at the same time as you have to go through the same procedure to get to it. That Accord has 2 belts, one is a balance belt. A valve adjustment is sort of an elective but if done properly it can make the engine run very smoothly (I did a video on this). As for the interval, time is actually more harmful than miles, things will tend to dry rot over time if they don't get used.
Crankcase ventilation is exactly that, crankcase ventilation. You need intake vacuum, a valve, some hose, and a connection to a high point on the engine to vent as much of the gas buildup as possible.
@mikeischaos If it's the master the pedal slowly sinks to the floor, don't forget to check the entire system for leaks however. If it's the booster the brake pedal is hard as a rock and hard to push.
@oscarasz1 I would replace it. Anytime you find a leak in the brake system it should be addressed and if you find it leaking at the master I think it's a good idea to replace it.
What a helpful video.... I'm going to replace the master cylinder on our 1988 Honda CRX, but first looked to your video for a little tutorial. Well explained and laid out..... many thanks. You do a great job on your videos of explaining and showing how to do the job.
@keasy84 Good question and to be honest I'm not exactly sure. You might try holding your finger under the bottom port and fasten that lower hose first before the others, this may get you what you need. Good luck.
@supertrex2 You do want to bleed a clutch master on the bench first just like I did here but when you bleed it on the car you will have to pull the pedal up after you depress it as it will not return until it's been bled out.
@thinkAPP1 That sucks. Your only hope now is vice grips, using a line wrench is really important so that the lines don't get stripped. The only way to replace the fasteners is to replace the entire brake line or to cut the end, install an end from another line, and re-flare the end.
@amimemeami Yes brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture and as a result the boiling point is lowered so you are correct in your theory. It's not a bad idea to replace the rest of the fluid but most of it was replaced when the master was replaced on this car.
@Michiganborn1969 If you perform the procedure in the video bleeding at the wheels should not be necessary. But if you need to bleed them the order is LF, RR to RF to LR.
@thinkAPP1 ABS and brakes should work independently of each other, if the ABS light is on it means the ABS is inactive but you should still have the base brake system. Did you try the test with spinning the wheels? If so, what did you find. If you want to solve the problem you need to test and diagnose not throw parts at it.
In a situation like that my first suspect is an error by the person that installed it. If it were me I would take it back where I got it fixed and see if perhaps they might take a look, maybe it's just something that is loose or needs adjusting that is the cause.
I had to clean and replace everything in an entire brake system once because someone accidentally put automatic transmission fluid in place of brake fluid. I would suggest having the system flushed as soon as possible. The issue that the transmission fluid caused was a swelling and degradation of all the rubber seals in the system causing a complete failure of the braking system. I don't know if ps fluid would cause the same thing but brakes are pretty important.
@syphilistic You are correct,however in 20 years of installing both the factory and aftermarket master cylinders I've never had issue with that adjustment being off. The only time I did see an issue was when a coworker decided to do the adjustment and got it wrong which caused the brakes to lock up. For someone of your obvious skill level I think the pushrod adjustment would be a good idea but for the masses I think it would cause more harm than good to suggest that the adjustment was mandatory.
@syphilistic Your input is welcome and appreciated, like I said in episode 1, I don't know everything and I'm honored that people such as yourself take the time to comment and give input.
@chilangos3 The first thing I do in that situation is look for external leaks in the brake system. If you don't find any then look to the master cylinder for the cause. BTW if you have drum brakes you need to remove the drums and check the wheel cylinders for leaks.
@thinkAPP1 I've seen some brake pads that didn't stop all that well, this may be the problem. You can check to see if the brakes are getting pressure simply by lifting the wheel off of the ground and applying the brakes, try to spin the wheel, if it still spins with the brakes applied then you have a real problem. Also make sure all the wheels are bled, if one side still has air it will only brake on one front and one rear wheel.
@300zx93nismo1 You will have to keep bleeding it as you don't have the air out of it yet. Have someone on the bleeder screw on the slave, depress the pedal to the floor, close the bleeder on the slave and pull up on the pedal. Repeat until the pedal returns on it's own.
@888bc I don't recommend compressing the calipers at the wheels for a number of reasons not the least of which it's not necessary. If you follow the steps I demonstrate for bleeding you will be just fine and the air will bleed out the fittings, if not then you need to bleed at each one of the wheels but I rarely run into that situation.
@pxf7zk That has nothing to do with the master, you may have some issues with the rear calipers, check where the cable connects to the caliper to see if it's stuck and rusted up. Once you free it make sure the caliper is working properly, if not you may have to replace them.
@jungleguybest The master is similar I'm sure but probably not exactly the same. As for the brake pedal if the rear brakes are properly adjusted as you suggest the only other adjustment that I can think of is the pushrod for the master, get this wrong however and your day will be much worse than a low pedal. Check the service manual for the procedure.
Thanks! Was going to take it to the dealer, but after your video decided to do it at home. Wasn't quite as smooth as your install, but my brakes are way better than they were before the job! Thank you again. Great videos.
Thanks Eric. It has been a long time since I have bled breaks and never had to bleed the master cylinder before. Well, as fate would have it, while bleeding the brakes I overestimated how quickly the fluid would run out and accidentally pumped air into my brake cylinder. I wasn't certain until your video exactly how to go about bleeding the master cylinder, now I am so I'll be off to bleed the system all over again shortly, thanks again.
@arangadang You might want to check for leaks before you replace the master cylinder as a bad master cylinder will slowly sink to the floor if it's bad, if you pump the brakes and it works it usually indicates a leak somewhere. Follow all the lines to each of the wheels and look for leaking fluid before replacing the master cylinder.
@zztopgearhead1 I did a video on adjusting valves already but in the case of hydraulic lifters it's important to use the correct oil and keep it clean (change it regularly), if your using the correct oil and you still have an issue then the lifters will need to be replaced. You may also have a problem with ignition timing, when it's off it MAY cause the valves to be noisy as well, it could also be the result of other worn components inside the engine.
@syphilistic The truth is that you should never mess with the push rod adjustment, once it is set at the factory it should be left alone. If it needs to be set (at least on Honda's) there is a special tool that is used.
Thanks man , It had been awhile. You definitely know your stuff and how to clearly explain in a way everyone should be able to understand. I like that little comment you made about not getting to excited about the master cylinder sucking your fingers. Have a great day.
@cvilla198 If you bleed the master at the lines on the car like in the video normally you don't have to bleed it at the wheels. If you do bleed it at the wheels it usually takes a lot longer to work the air out. From the sound of it I would say you still have air in the system that needs to come out. The power booster just aids in the assist, if it is not functioning the brake pedal actually gets very hard not soft.
@spelunkerd Yea sometimes rear calipers can be tricky, glad you got it figured out though, your right, that was better than replacing the master cylinder. Thanks for the comment.
@opiate2L The bubbles are normal but you should address ANY leaks in the brake system ASAP. As for pedal feel a lot depends on the adjustment of the rear brakes so if you haven't adjusted them it might be a good idea to do that first. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@bastec666 The first thing I would look for are leaks at the calipers or wheel cylinders. Next, the test for the master cylinder is to depress the pedal with EVEN pressure (don't push hard) and see if you can gradually make the pedal sink to the floor, if it does the master is bad and should be replaced.
Hey Eric love your stuff all the way over here in Australia. You always explain things in a down to earth straight forward way. After I install a bench primed master cylinder, I always suction fluid back up unto the master from an tube in fluid on each of the front wheels. I just reckon it's more natural that way because the air is closer to the top and would prefer to rise. Everyone's got their preferences and ways, that's just mine. Thanks for the great vids. Love your work.
thank you so much, I just changed my master cylinder, and my reservoir is completely separate, this is the only thing I could find on instructions to bench bleed without the res, thank you so much, and I anticipate I will be watching more of your videos as I do more maintenance on my P.O.S.
@rholleba As talked about at the beginning of the video a bad master cylinder is often a brake pedal that slowly sinks to the floor. In your case I would first check the adjustment of the rear brakes and if it was loose readjust them and recheck for the condition. If air gets into the system you will experience a 'spongy' pedal. Good luck.
@Perez19136 Not likely to be the booster but make sure the brake pads are installed correctly and that the calipers have been properly serviced, also make sure there are no leaks in the system and if all that is good watch the video that I did on Dealing With A Spongy Brake Pedal.
@Michiganborn1969 It is OK to replace just one rotor however I recommend treating both wheels on the same axle the same. You may have a bad caliper that is the root cause not allowing the brakes to release when you let off the pedal, if it drags then it will cause the rotor to overheat and warp. You can verify a bad caliper by pushing the pistons back in, if they won't go in or it's hard to push them in it's probably bad.
First thing I would do is jack it up and spin the wheels, if you find one that is hanging up that is probably where your problem is, if you find more than one or all 4, look to the master cylinder or booster. Put it in neutral when you try and spin the rear wheels, also use jack stands and don't drop that thing on any part of your body, trucks are heavy and that would hurt. Good luck and keep me posted.
Well after 15 years of doing it every day I would hope I know something but in truth there is still soo much I don't know. Since it's my show however I can focus on the stuff that I do know so I don't appear so ignorant. Thanks for watching and supporting my friend.
Hey Eric. Thank you for your TH-cam channel ! Can you tell me what size Swivel extension wrench you used on this 300M? I already have the 10MM flair Tubing wrench size. Thanks in advance ! RC in New Hampshire
remembering the good old days with Eric the car guy before he became successful-and went commercial missed this guy.
Thanks for sharing your video Eric - great video btw.
Regarding the Master Cylinder bleeding procedure, one alternative that worked really well for me was to perform the bleed procedure while installed on the vehicle, which should ensure air has been purged from the master cylinder prior to reconnecting into the brake system and with minimal brake fluid spillage. Here is how I did it:
Prior to proceeding, spray the master cylinder (MC) nuts and brake lines where they connect to the MC with a good lubricant and let it soak ( 1 to 5 minutes depending on how much rust is observed)
1. Place a catch rag under the master cylinder (MC) and disconnect the two attached brake lines and remove the existing unit. As you recommended, disconnecting the MC booster hose, accelerator and cruise control cables (if equipped) from their hold down brackets makes the procedure much easier
2. Install the new MC (one nut snug tight should be sufficient) with the brake lines still detached. If the new MC did not come with the rubber gasket, you may need to use a donor from the old one.
3. Add the bleeder kit per the instructions
4. Top off the brake fluid and pump the brake pedal SLOWLY until all the air bubbles disappear (typically between 15 to 30 pumps)
5. Loosen the MC nut(s) so that there is a little play and remove one of the bleeder hoses and begin threading one of the brake lines by hand (5 to 10 turns should be sufficient)
6. Repeat the same procedure for the last line
7. Tighten both MC mounting nuts to spec (132 inch/lbs)
8. Tighten the MC brakes lines snug tight and wipe down both lines with brake cleaner fluid and paper towel
9. Tighten each line another 1/4 to 1/2 turn or until the fluid no longer drips from the line
10. Ensure the brake reservoir is topped off and pump the brake pedal another 5 to 10 times
11. Recheck the lines for leakage and tighten in 1/4 inch increments until no further leakage is visible
12. Start the vehicle and ensure the pedal firmly stops somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 to the floor
13. If more travel is observed, check for leaks at each wheel and bleed each wheel cylinder per the owner's manual
Hi Eric. Did this little job on my wife's '90 Accord this morning in a little over an hour without a hitch. My rubber gasket thingy stayed with the car and would have caused me lots of head scratching if you hadn't warned me. And while I followed your suggestions to avoid bleeding the brakes, I couldn't imagine air wouldn't get in, so I bled them anyway. Not a single tiny bubble came through. You're the man. Thanks!
I also shot how I picked it up with my magnet but I didn't have enough time to put it in. I think it's good to show that I make mistakes too just like everyone else, the point in my opinion is to learn from those mistakes, if people learn how I deal with my mistakes I think I'm doing my job the way I've intended all along.
Thank you ERIC ! I am in the jungle in Honduras with no "bleed kit". Your push and then two finger 'bleed kit'. saved my azz......My Ranger now has brakes again... No driving over a cliff for me .. Thanks again... By the way, your camera man is lovely !
excellent tutorial.
Never seen the advice about pre-filling and bleeding the master cylinder before fitting before but worked it out for mysdelf many years ago. Another benefit is the M/S seals get lubricated so that there is less chance of them turning themselves inside out when pumping the brakes to bleed the system
Probably the most common mistake that causes problems bleeding the braking system.
Thanks for posting
Thanks Eric, I followed your technique for a 1999 CRV and it worked well. Because I'm in Aus its on the other side. Master cylinder was fine so I just replaced the slave. First time I've ever done any engine work so even though it was minor I'm pretty stoked it worked. I did it buy my self so the bleeder worked well. Your vid is Nicely edited and put together so it's easy to follow. Got my flared spanners for $25 a set, $49 for the slave online and $5 for the dot 3. Cheap as! Your a legend!
ACE Man I just fitted a new master cylinder to my ford transit without bleeding and spent ages in the burning sun trying to get some brakes with no luck, Ended up putting my old master back on just so I had some ( dodgy) brake so i could get to work,, NOW I know what to do haha Steady from the UK...
Yeah man, I'm sure that's where I'd be on this repair without having watched this.
10 plus years later, you're still helping us with this video, sir!!!! Gotta replace the master cylinder on my mint 2002 CR-V and this video really helped me, especially the bench bleeding part. Thank you so much!!!!
It might suck on your fingers but don't get too excited lol
Yeah, I would need some more time to deliver such a great line.
Lol
14 years old video of yours still very helpful ❤. You have the best mechanic video out there showing us step by step with explanation amd some humour. Thanks again
If you'll leave the top off of the reservoir after you've installed the new m/c and S-L-O-W-L-Y pump the pedal because pumping hard will shoot fluid out the top... it will give the air a place to escape and 90 percent of the time you won't need to bleed with a wrench/ cracking lines open. .. save you some time and headache.
@Halljand ANY leaks in the hydraulic system will cause a problem with the brakes. If you have a known leak at a wheel cylinder you need to replace it and bleed the system, then recheck your pedal.
Great video, love your stuff. One thing I noticed and was curious if it was an oversight or left off the video. Why didn't you measure and adjust the brake booster push rod to make sure you had proper clearance with the primary piston?
Did the job today...took a little over an hour. Hardest part was to get that lower 12mm nut back on...dropped it twice. Thanks again for the video. Had no idea how to bench bleed a master cylinder.
@phylrick1 I've worked on a few "vintage" cars in my day (One of my favorites was a 50 Olds 98) but to be honest all those "modules" just take the place of the mechanical things you used to be able to adjust, after all the the engine still works the same it just has a plastic cover now, these days it's more a matter of finding the right part to replace, I really don't feel like I "fix" things on modern cars the way I do when I work on older classic vehicles.
I just got a new Master Cylinder, and while I was sure I could figure it out, the video made me much more confident that I will succeed in my repair.
Thanks Eric.
Hey Eric I really like your videos.
I have recently moved to Mexico and most of the cars here are older models, It would be great that you do videos on corollas (they are real common here) like 85-2000 that way I can help some of the folks that get stranded or dont kniw how to fix minor things like alternator and starter replacement/troubleshooting, drum brake replacement, time belt replacement (this one is a must on 90 corolla$, I havent seen one in youtube for tjis model and year.
Thanks a lot u have tought ne alot and saved me tons on bucks .
who moves to mexico? on purpose anyway. are you a fugitive from justice? cool.
@Soulfly1134 Sounds like you need a master cylinder to me. The thing it's bolted to is referred to as the "booster" as it is a vacuum booster there to help with the assist during brake application.
Eric you rock! Love your vids. They've helped many times and saved me the expense of having a mechanic fix my vehicles. Keep up the awesome work!!
Very thorough instructional video--showing how to bleed the master cylinder on the bench as well as on the car.. Didn't know anything about bleeding the brake system before I watched this today. Now I have the confidence to go do it. Thanks a million!
"You might feel it sucking on your fingers a little bit but don't get too excited" hahahaha
Hey Eric, thank you for the most informative video I have watched for a long time. I don't know much about cars but I really understood through your careful explanation. I have witnessed my father's frustration for the last few days as his brake pads have locked on his car and the local mechanics can not find the issue, until yesterday when a new guy suggested to change the master cylinder. The car is a 1992 Automatic Honda Civic. We collect the car tomorrow so I hold thumbs.
"LOvely Assistant Rob" looks exactly like "Concerned Customer"
Eric, another huge THANK YOU! In 2005, we had the MC replaced and I think it was right around $300. But 2 weeks ago, my wife started complaining about spongy brakes so I decided to replace the MC--this time myself. Well, after studying this video a few times, a new $53.99 MC from Autozone and 1.5 hours later last night, VOILA! The hardest thing was gaining access to the MC, but once there it was easy. Thanks again. Your video gave me confidence & saved me, especially learning how to bench bleed.
Great acting from Bruce Jenner
That's a very offensive thing to say to Assistant Rob, no one deserves to be called by the name of "it".
jamaicans just jamaicans you can expect this from them
So he doesn't look like bruce?
Or The Riddler in civilian clothes
This comment is the gutz lol
@1834Benji Happy to help, thanks for the comment.
When I watched this video I kept smelling brake fluid and feeling it's weird rubbery oiliness on my hands.
i masturbated thru the whole thing and climaxed when i saw bruce jenner
You invented a new way of circumcision Mike
Well, I'm replacing my master cylinder tomorrow. I have a 1982 Chevy C10 with a 305, nothing special. Found out the fun way that it was time for a new one, almost missed my turn when the pedal went all the way down without even beginning to brake. Then it stayed on the floor board, it was exciting. But I used my feet to pull it back up and I tapped it quickly till I got enough pressure to stop. I'm certainly no mechanic, but I'm learning how to do everything. What better way than to get an old truck and do everything yourself. Thanks for the video, seems quite simple really after watching.
I'm here for the acting.
@drewndallas 2 separate problems. The pedal problem is likely the master cylinder, the idle problem could be a problem with the AC or the idle circuit, hard to say witch but look into both.
Bruce jenner?
well, maybe before he turned into a freakazoid
@Dragonfly7111 The caliper may be bad. The special tool helps too so if you aren't using one you might want to try one just to be sure.
I was going to watch this video in my car while it was connected to the blue tooth and I got the ad where that women is giving birth now it sounds like I was watching hard core porn
@MegaGertis You may have a problem with the brake booster causing a vacuum leak, try pinching the line that goes to the booster and seeing if the problem still exists, if not then check the booster and it's check valve. Good luck.
man that was tough...why cant we just have brakes that use water as fluid to get Pascals law into motion?..he reminds me of John Lennon
fidel catsro water evaporates when heated. so nawwww
So make a cooling radiator for it hehehe, if they can use water to cool engine, keeping hydraulic water from heating into vapor should be cat food
fidel catsro they use coolant to cool engine, not water. when you use water, you have to constantly put water because it evaporates overtime. water is the worst fluid that can used for hydraulic equipment.
Yes sir amigos 90percent water 10percen coolant more of less.its still mainly wateros
fidel catsro It's supposed to be 50% water and 50% coolant. The coolant dissolves into the water and raises the boiling point.
I don't know how you do it but 50/50 is how the first world does it.
@shatros I'm glad I was able to help, thanks for the comment.
Dirty hands are happy hands.
@SuicidalLooney Hard to say, do you have ABS? If so it is designed NOT to lock the wheels up.
Holy crap I thought that was Bruce Jenner at first.
I would start by checking the rear brake adjustment if you have rear drum brakes. In the process look at all the brake parts and see if there are any visible leaks. Then you can check the master cylinder by depressing the pedal lightly with constant pressure, if your able to push it to the floor, replace the master.
8:05
Is Rob gay?
Does it matter? Are you a bigotty ass douche queef?
Lol, triggered
Looking for a date?
Most people get "triggered" by severe stupidity. You're on the wrong side of history bub.
@94jbmx That's not what the term means, it means that you have one front and the opposite rear on the SAME port so all you need is 2 ports.
@GreenBatman93 I would say corrosion is defiantly the issue then. Be mindful that cars that sit suffer way more than cars that get driven so you may have more work ahead.
Hey eric, love the vids. I am in mechanic school and we just got done with the steering and Suspension section and we just started the brakes section. your videos helps me in 2 ways, the first way is by helping me with understanding how things work, the procedure to replace something and how to diagnose something for mechanic school by being able to replay your vids as much as I need, they've helped already. the second is by just watching them and knowing how to do it for future situations.
@imthechandyman I used to do it that way till I read the service procedure for Honda and then found out it's actually better to do LF, RR, RF, LR, the reason this works better is that you get the air out of the system faster because you start with the wheel closest to the master, this way you don't pump the air through the entire system before you get it out. I've been doing it this way for a few years now and it works great.
The best video and especially “editing” on TH-cam on the subject of car-break-system. THANK YOU!
When you replace a timing belt it is common practice to replace the water pump at the same time as you have to go through the same procedure to get to it. That Accord has 2 belts, one is a balance belt. A valve adjustment is sort of an elective but if done properly it can make the engine run very smoothly (I did a video on this). As for the interval, time is actually more harmful than miles, things will tend to dry rot over time if they don't get used.
Crankcase ventilation is exactly that, crankcase ventilation. You need intake vacuum, a valve, some hose, and a connection to a high point on the engine to vent as much of the gas buildup as possible.
@mikeischaos If it's the master the pedal slowly sinks to the floor, don't forget to check the entire system for leaks however. If it's the booster the brake pedal is hard as a rock and hard to push.
@oscarasz1 I would replace it. Anytime you find a leak in the brake system it should be addressed and if you find it leaking at the master I think it's a good idea to replace it.
What a helpful video.... I'm going to replace the master cylinder on our 1988 Honda CRX, but first looked to your video for a little tutorial. Well explained and laid out..... many thanks. You do a great job on your videos of explaining and showing how to do the job.
@keasy84 Good question and to be honest I'm not exactly sure. You might try holding your finger under the bottom port and fasten that lower hose first before the others, this may get you what you need. Good luck.
@lasersdend15 2 things turn the brake light on, the parking brake and low brake fluid. Make sure your are topped up and don't have any leaks.
@supertrex2 You do want to bleed a clutch master on the bench first just like I did here but when you bleed it on the car you will have to pull the pedal up after you depress it as it will not return until it's been bled out.
@thinkAPP1 That sucks. Your only hope now is vice grips, using a line wrench is really important so that the lines don't get stripped. The only way to replace the fasteners is to replace the entire brake line or to cut the end, install an end from another line, and re-flare the end.
@amimemeami Yes brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture and as a result the boiling point is lowered so you are correct in your theory. It's not a bad idea to replace the rest of the fluid but most of it was replaced when the master was replaced on this car.
@d46512 In this case it would have no effect other than I wouldn't have to fill the master as much. There is no psi in the reservoir BTW.
@Michiganborn1969 If you perform the procedure in the video bleeding at the wheels should not be necessary. But if you need to bleed them the order is LF, RR to RF to LR.
@thinkAPP1 ABS and brakes should work independently of each other, if the ABS light is on it means the ABS is inactive but you should still have the base brake system. Did you try the test with spinning the wheels? If so, what did you find. If you want to solve the problem you need to test and diagnose not throw parts at it.
In a situation like that my first suspect is an error by the person that installed it. If it were me I would take it back where I got it fixed and see if perhaps they might take a look, maybe it's just something that is loose or needs adjusting that is the cause.
@xXfame87Xx Glad to help, thanks for the comment.
@WilJamz Be sure to check for leaks in the system first and adjust the rear brakes before you commit to the master cylinder. Good luck.
I had to clean and replace everything in an entire brake system once because someone accidentally put automatic transmission fluid in place of brake fluid. I would suggest having the system flushed as soon as possible. The issue that the transmission fluid caused was a swelling and degradation of all the rubber seals in the system causing a complete failure of the braking system. I don't know if ps fluid would cause the same thing but brakes are pretty important.
@syphilistic You are correct,however in 20 years of installing both the factory and aftermarket master cylinders I've never had issue with that adjustment being off. The only time I did see an issue was when a coworker decided to do the adjustment and got it wrong which caused the brakes to lock up. For someone of your obvious skill level I think the pushrod adjustment would be a good idea but for the masses I think it would cause more harm than good to suggest that the adjustment was mandatory.
@niteworker709 Good luck. I would not recommend adjusting the push rod unless there was a problem.
@syphilistic Your input is welcome and appreciated, like I said in episode 1, I don't know everything and I'm honored that people such as yourself take the time to comment and give input.
@chilangos3 The first thing I do in that situation is look for external leaks in the brake system. If you don't find any then look to the master cylinder for the cause. BTW if you have drum brakes you need to remove the drums and check the wheel cylinders for leaks.
@thinkAPP1 I've seen some brake pads that didn't stop all that well, this may be the problem. You can check to see if the brakes are getting pressure simply by lifting the wheel off of the ground and applying the brakes, try to spin the wheel, if it still spins with the brakes applied then you have a real problem. Also make sure all the wheels are bled, if one side still has air it will only brake on one front and one rear wheel.
@300zx93nismo1 You will have to keep bleeding it as you don't have the air out of it yet. Have someone on the bleeder screw on the slave, depress the pedal to the floor, close the bleeder on the slave and pull up on the pedal. Repeat until the pedal returns on it's own.
I love all your videos. If ever I have a question about something I’m doing on my car, your videos are my number one “go to”! Thanks EricTheCarGuy
@888bc I don't recommend compressing the calipers at the wheels for a number of reasons not the least of which it's not necessary. If you follow the steps I demonstrate for bleeding you will be just fine and the air will bleed out the fittings, if not then you need to bleed at each one of the wheels but I rarely run into that situation.
@pxf7zk That has nothing to do with the master, you may have some issues with the rear calipers, check where the cable connects to the caliper to see if it's stuck and rusted up. Once you free it make sure the caliper is working properly, if not you may have to replace them.
@jungleguybest The master is similar I'm sure but probably not exactly the same. As for the brake pedal if the rear brakes are properly adjusted as you suggest the only other adjustment that I can think of is the pushrod for the master, get this wrong however and your day will be much worse than a low pedal. Check the service manual for the procedure.
Thanks! Was going to take it to the dealer, but after your video decided to do it at home. Wasn't quite as smooth as your install, but my brakes are way better than they were before the job! Thank you again. Great videos.
@DBlockDmagic I love helping people save money. Glad I was able to help, thanks very much for your comment.
Thanks Eric. It has been a long time since I have bled breaks and never had to bleed the master cylinder before. Well, as fate would have it, while bleeding the brakes I overestimated how quickly the fluid would run out and accidentally pumped air into my brake cylinder. I wasn't certain until your video exactly how to go about bleeding the master cylinder, now I am so I'll be off to bleed the system all over again shortly, thanks again.
@arangadang You might want to check for leaks before you replace the master cylinder as a bad master cylinder will slowly sink to the floor if it's bad, if you pump the brakes and it works it usually indicates a leak somewhere. Follow all the lines to each of the wheels and look for leaking fluid before replacing the master cylinder.
@zztopgearhead1 I did a video on adjusting valves already but in the case of hydraulic lifters it's important to use the correct oil and keep it clean (change it regularly), if your using the correct oil and you still have an issue then the lifters will need to be replaced. You may also have a problem with ignition timing, when it's off it MAY cause the valves to be noisy as well, it could also be the result of other worn components inside the engine.
@syphilistic The truth is that you should never mess with the push rod adjustment, once it is set at the factory it should be left alone. If it needs to be set (at least on Honda's) there is a special tool that is used.
@Jhuffman1990 I would start buy pulling the code to see what it's for, only then will you be able to nail down and diagnose the problem.
@vanishi Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
Thanks man , It had been awhile. You definitely know your stuff and how to clearly explain in a way everyone should be able to understand. I like that little comment you made about not getting to excited about the master cylinder sucking your fingers. Have a great day.
@coolhotct1 Your most welcome, thanks very much for your comment.
@brandon94565 I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
@cvilla198 If you bleed the master at the lines on the car like in the video normally you don't have to bleed it at the wheels. If you do bleed it at the wheels it usually takes a lot longer to work the air out. From the sound of it I would say you still have air in the system that needs to come out. The power booster just aids in the assist, if it is not functioning the brake pedal actually gets very hard not soft.
@spelunkerd Yea sometimes rear calipers can be tricky, glad you got it figured out though, your right, that was better than replacing the master cylinder. Thanks for the comment.
@opiate2L The bubbles are normal but you should address ANY leaks in the brake system ASAP. As for pedal feel a lot depends on the adjustment of the rear brakes so if you haven't adjusted them it might be a good idea to do that first. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@bastec666 The first thing I would look for are leaks at the calipers or wheel cylinders. Next, the test for the master cylinder is to depress the pedal with EVEN pressure (don't push hard) and see if you can gradually make the pedal sink to the floor, if it does the master is bad and should be replaced.
Hey Eric love your stuff all the way over here in Australia. You always explain things in a down to earth straight forward way. After I install a bench primed master cylinder, I always suction fluid back up unto the master from an tube in fluid on each of the front wheels. I just reckon it's more natural that way because the air is closer to the top and would prefer to rise. Everyone's got their preferences and ways, that's just mine. Thanks for the great vids. Love your work.
I had to think about it before I got it, but yes, that'd remove the air off the top to start. What do you do use to suction it up with?
thank you so much, I just changed my master cylinder, and my reservoir is completely separate, this is the only thing I could find on instructions to bench bleed without the res, thank you so much, and I anticipate I will be watching more of your videos as I do more maintenance on my P.O.S.
@ankl3br3ak3r You can bleed it at the line if the bleeder is broken other than that your going to have to replace the wheel cylinder.
@rholleba As talked about at the beginning of the video a bad master cylinder is often a brake pedal that slowly sinks to the floor. In your case I would first check the adjustment of the rear brakes and if it was loose readjust them and recheck for the condition. If air gets into the system you will experience a 'spongy' pedal. Good luck.
@Perez19136 Not likely to be the booster but make sure the brake pads are installed correctly and that the calipers have been properly serviced, also make sure there are no leaks in the system and if all that is good watch the video that I did on Dealing With A Spongy Brake Pedal.
@Michiganborn1969 It is OK to replace just one rotor however I recommend treating both wheels on the same axle the same. You may have a bad caliper that is the root cause not allowing the brakes to release when you let off the pedal, if it drags then it will cause the rotor to overheat and warp. You can verify a bad caliper by pushing the pistons back in, if they won't go in or it's hard to push them in it's probably bad.
@keasy84 Glad you got it all sorted out, thanks for the update and for your comments.
@IIGrayfoxII I think all you would need to worry about is the tools. I'll do what I can to help with the confidence.
@driftster99 I'm glad I was able to help, see being dirty isn't so bad.
First thing I would do is jack it up and spin the wheels, if you find one that is hanging up that is probably where your problem is, if you find more than one or all 4, look to the master cylinder or booster. Put it in neutral when you try and spin the rear wheels, also use jack stands and don't drop that thing on any part of your body, trucks are heavy and that would hurt. Good luck and keep me posted.