Thank you so much for making this video. I crashed and bent my brake lever. I couldn’t figure out how to remove it. Your video explained it so well. Much appreciated!
What torx bid tool size did you use for the grub screw near the reach adjustment knob? Also, it looks like other levers from SRAM can replace the lever. Thanks for the video. I bent my lever and it will take a while to arrive. I am going to try to bend it back.
Thanks. I was able to get my bike running due to this video. I replaced a bent lever and it was quite easy once I copied my repair station like yours. Hats off to you.
Buen video los pistones que medidas son o todo el kit que numero de medida es tengo los mismos frenos y se me malogro las gomas internas y quiero reemplazarlas gracias
Thank you but sadly I am not too sure on the size of piston but there is cheap kits on ebay if you look around. Something like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186430477147
Hi dude, Ive got one of those red valves in my lever, but the other lever Ive got hasn't got one. Have I lost it, or has the bike shop I bought my bike from put two different generations of levers on my bike or is it supposed to be like that? Cheers!
Hi, It could be that the other one is just a non-stealthamajig version. As far as I can tell it's just a plug so that SRAM can fill the levers with fluid from the factory, you connect your hose and it's pre-bleed so it's no great loss if you don't have it. Also means if you want to trim the hoses in the future it will be cheaper on the non stealthamajig version.
Love that video!!! Is it normal that the lever ( not connected to the hose) can't move like it would with any other brakes? Basically mine is disconnected from the hose and the lever won't move more than 2mm... Is that normal? Is this video all about just that?
Hi On the Sram levers with the StealthamaJig system it's normal for the lever to only move a little bit. The hole at the end of the StealthamaJig levers basically is blocked by a little plunger which is pushed out of the way when the correct hose is fitted. It should say StealthamaJig fitting only on the lever or if you look down the hole where the hose attaches you will see it's blocked. If you don't have a StealthamaJig lever then the brake lever/ lever blade should move freely.
Can I just take of the lever without taking the rest apart, as I crashed and don’t have the money or equipment to drain it and re bleed it? Because I can get a lever off Amazon for £9.99
Yes that can be done. There is a circlip that holds the piston in place so even with the lever blade removed it won't leak or cause any reason for you re-bleed it. Someone who did just the lever replacement th-cam.com/video/oCSfgOu6Osg/w-d-xo.html
12-25mm. The pliers I used are Knipex 48 11 j1. Some pliers might be too bulky to fit in the gap so just have to be aware of either the nose length or width of plyer body.
Thank you for pointing that out. I fitted one before backwards, it fitted fine but then I looked after and thought something is just not quite right with how this looks.
I've got a set of these on my bike. I'm trying to see if there is a way to improve the bite point and get it a bit earlier. The pads seem to retract way too much. Do you think a thicker washer under the circlip would do the trick?
One way, which is not 100% successful first time. . Would be to remove the wheel and pump the brake a little bit so that the pads come out a bit further then when you refit the wheel the pads would be closer to the disc resulting in less lever travel before they make contact with the disc. I did that method above with a set of shimano brakes and it have only 5mm of lever travel before the pads bit, it was very on/off feeling but I liked it. Another option could be thicker discs. The standard discs tend to be around 1.8mm thick, you can get 2.0mm discs and also 2.3mm disc. It depends on the limitation of the SRAM caliper to what thickness of disc you can use. As for the circlip, well I have not worked on these brakes for a long time now but looking at a diagram of the lever I don't believe a thicker circlip would work for a few reasons. It is a cheap option so might be worth a shot, however here's my reasons way I don't think it would work. . 1. There is a groove for the cirlcip to fit into and a thicker one would potentially not fit in that groove. 2. If you push the piston down further into the bore of the master cylinder it could block the return hole, meaning the caliper pistons wouldn't release when you let go of the brake. 3. I think the washer would block the thicker circlip from moving the piston so it wouldn't change anything. Bit of a long answer, sorry.
Heya thanks for the reply. Great insights. I ended up fixing my issue by accident. I saw a video for getting the calliper pistons lubed to make them less sticky and in the process I think I managed to squeeze more fluid into the system by moving the pistons around with the syringe attached at the lever, now they take nice and early. Stoked. I’ll need to come back to this video soon though as I think my one lever’s piston is sticking. Probably also swollen.
Thank you so much for making this video. I crashed and bent my brake lever. I couldn’t figure out how to remove it. Your video explained it so well. Much appreciated!
Thank you, good to see it was clear enough to be useful. 👍
Great video. Thank you. The slow fade between clips threw me off.
Only one who mention about red valve what is for.
What torx bid tool size did you use for the grub screw near the reach adjustment knob? Also, it looks like other levers from SRAM can replace the lever. Thanks for the video. I bent my lever and it will take a while to arrive. I am going to try to bend it back.
I don't have the lever here to check but the torx tool sram normally give with the brakes is T8.
Yes this and the Guide stuff is extremely similar.
Thanks. I was able to get my bike running due to this video. I replaced a bent lever and it was quite easy once I copied my repair station like yours. Hats off to you.
@@horusgarcia1 Good job with the repair and thanks for the kind words. 👍
Buen video los pistones que medidas son o todo el kit que numero de medida es tengo los mismos frenos y se me malogro las gomas internas y quiero reemplazarlas gracias
Thank you but sadly I am not too sure on the size of piston but there is cheap kits on ebay if you look around.
Something like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186430477147
Hi dude, Ive got one of those red valves in my lever, but the other lever Ive got hasn't got one. Have I lost it, or has the bike shop I bought my bike from put two different generations of levers on my bike or is it supposed to be like that? Cheers!
Hi,
It could be that the other one is just a non-stealthamajig version. As far as I can tell it's just a plug so that SRAM can fill the levers with fluid from the factory, you connect your hose and it's pre-bleed so it's no great loss if you don't have it. Also means if you want to trim the hoses in the future it will be cheaper on the non stealthamajig version.
@@Chambers36TheEnter Ah thats perfect, cheers for that man! Was getting worried haha
Love that video!!!
Is it normal that the lever ( not connected to the hose) can't move like it would with any other brakes?
Basically mine is disconnected from the hose and the lever won't move more than 2mm... Is that normal? Is this video all about just that?
Hi
On the Sram levers with the StealthamaJig system it's normal for the lever to only move a little bit. The hole at the end of the StealthamaJig levers basically is blocked by a little plunger which is pushed out of the way when the correct hose is fitted. It should say StealthamaJig fitting only on the lever or if you look down the hole where the hose attaches you will see it's blocked.
If you don't have a StealthamaJig lever then the brake lever/ lever blade should move freely.
@@Chambers36TheEnterthank you soo sooo much dude!!!
Can I just take of the lever without taking the rest apart, as I crashed and don’t have the money or equipment to drain it and re bleed it? Because I can get a lever off Amazon for £9.99
Yes that can be done.
There is a circlip that holds the piston in place so even with the lever blade removed it won't leak or cause any reason for you re-bleed it.
Someone who did just the lever replacement th-cam.com/video/oCSfgOu6Osg/w-d-xo.html
Hi my brand new code lever is leaking. Dot fluid came out of the bladder vent hole during bleeding. Is this normal?
Yes ,it leaks the extra fluid
What size snap
/cir clip pliers did you use??
12-25mm. The pliers I used are Knipex 48 11 j1. Some pliers might be too bulky to fit in the gap so just have to be aware of either the nose length or width of plyer body.
@Chambers36TheEnter awesome thanks what was the tip size?
you made a mistake, the cover with the inscription must be rotated 180 °
Thank you for pointing that out.
I fitted one before backwards, it fitted fine but then I looked after and thought something is just not quite right with how this looks.
please can you help me sort mine out if i send them to you? or is anyone near me in chorley who can help me
Hi, local bike shop if decent should be able to offer some service options for them. I don't repair them outside of doing my own bits, sorry.
@@Chambers36TheEnter struggling to find anyone
I've got a set of these on my bike. I'm trying to see if there is a way to improve the bite point and get it a bit earlier. The pads seem to retract way too much. Do you think a thicker washer under the circlip would do the trick?
One way, which is not 100% successful first time. . Would be to remove the wheel and pump the brake a little bit so that the pads come out a bit further then when you refit the wheel the pads would be closer to the disc resulting in less lever travel before they make contact with the disc. I did that method above with a set of shimano brakes and it have only 5mm of lever travel before the pads bit, it was very on/off feeling but I liked it.
Another option could be thicker discs. The standard discs tend to be around 1.8mm thick, you can get 2.0mm discs and also 2.3mm disc.
It depends on the limitation of the SRAM caliper to what thickness of disc you can use.
As for the circlip, well I have not worked on these brakes for a long time now but looking at a diagram of the lever I don't believe a thicker circlip would work for a few reasons. It is a cheap option so might be worth a shot, however here's my reasons way I don't think it would work. .
1. There is a groove for the cirlcip to fit into and a thicker one would potentially not fit in that groove.
2. If you push the piston down further into the bore of the master cylinder it could block the return hole, meaning the caliper pistons wouldn't release when you let go of the brake.
3. I think the washer would block the thicker circlip from moving the piston so it wouldn't change anything.
Bit of a long answer, sorry.
Heya thanks for the reply. Great insights. I ended up fixing my issue by accident. I saw a video for getting the calliper pistons lubed to make them less sticky and in the process I think I managed to squeeze more fluid into the system by moving the pistons around with the syringe attached at the lever, now they take nice and early. Stoked. I’ll need to come back to this video soon though as I think my one lever’s piston is sticking. Probably also swollen.