Just completed this job on my 2003 Sentra GXE 1.8 and found this video to be one of the most helpful on the subject on TH-cam. Some tips that might be helpful to anyone else attempting this: (1) start with a cold or warm (NOT HOT) engine, vehicle in park, set the parking brake, chock both back wheels and then jack the front end up high, you will appreciate the clearance when you are working under it. MAKE SURE you position two quality jack stands appropriately to support the weight of the vehicle BEFORE even thinking about getting under there! (2) remove the passenger side front wheel and remove the plastic wheel well engine shroud. This will make it much easier to get your arm deep in there to work on the sensor. (3) get a good, bright portable LED worklight to help you see better under the car. Harbor Freight makes a nice one with articulating head for not much $ (4) use the information in this video regarding removing the intake manifold brace and move it aside, this makes it much easier to work on the CPS. You need to remove some airbox items up top to make it easier to get to the bolts to loosen the top end of the brace. (5) my original CPS was in my engine undisturbed for 21 years, and it was a BITCH to remove it because after all that time, the rubber o-ring swells. Once I removed the small bolt that holds it in, I found that using a long handle gasket scraper was the perfect tool to get under the sensor screw hole bracket and start to carefully pry the sensor loose from the engine. Some people use a screwdriver, I found that a narrow long handle gasket scraper makes it much easier to get under the screw hole bracket of the sensor compared to a screwdriver. Have patience, doing this yourself is not a job for the impatient person. Keep wiggling the gasket scraper under the screw hole bracket of the sensor, you will start to see the sensor move away from the engine. WHILE PRYING BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK THE PLASTIC SENSOR BRACKET OR THE CONNECTOR, if you do it will be much, much harder to remove the sensor! Eventually, with patience the old sensor will break free of the engine and you will be able to pull it out with your fingers. Words to the wise: take it easy, be careful and have patience getting the old sensor out. If you are not a careful and patient person, you will be FAR better off taking this to a professional mechanic than rushing it and breaking your sensor off in the engine. (6) Coat the rubber o-ring of your new sensor with clean engine oil before attempting to install it. You will find that your new sensor will be MUCH easier to install that it was removing the old sensor!! I used a genuine Hitachi CPS0007 sensor to replace my old sensor, Hitachi was the OEM supplier of this part to Nissan. Cost me about $32 for the part, I've seen them on Amazon and RockAuto for around $37 or $38. Think twice about cheaping out on this part, the $12 sensors on Ebay, Amazon, and Aliexpress don't always work properly and I would not want to have to do this PITA job again. Putting this all back together is easy, just make sure you don't leave out any bolts or forget to properly reconnect your topside air box. I found job to be way more of a bitch that it will appear to be, and it sucks lying on your back struggling with the old sensor. Honestly if you could get this job done for $200 or less, and you just don't love this kind of work, you might want to just get it done at a shop. If you do that, make sure they warranty their work as well as the part, and are using either the Hitachi or the genuine Nissan part.
Awesome video! Thanks! I was able to change the sensor in about an hour without removing the bracket. The ideal combination seems to be a stubby ratchet and a long 10mm socket. I was also able to place a small mirror towards the firewall that allowed me to position the socket. The other thing I'd recommend is removing the sensor before unplugging it. The plug can be a real pain. I wish all automotive companies would agree on a similar plug-in design for sensors so you don't have to guess how each one works. Anyway, with the sensor removed and dangling freely it's a lot easier to to get that plug off.
The hardest mechanic work I have done in many years! My brother and I worked on my car (2005 Nissan Sentra) for two days trying to get to this thing. I am 66 years old and my brother is 71, (plus it was horribly hot outside and I have cancer), so I guess all that had a factor in our problems; but on my car, it is almost impossible to get to it. After you remove the bolt holding the sensor in place, then it was real difficult to get the proper leverage to pop the sensor out (held in tight with 'O' ring tension). If it comes up again, I'm paying somebody to do this!
Got it....Yup it gets stuck good, I finally turned the sensor hole to towrards the top, the screw down tab and then it will stick out a little. Where it sticks out and with a large screw driver against the block, and turned the screw drive and pop out it came. I tried pryingwith a little screw diriver on the the bottom of it , no go, alomost gave up. Tooks hour to finally get it out hope this helps.
RonRay it is a pain in the ass... for a moment it came to my mind if there was something else holding it... i tried for 3 hrs today... ill try tomorrow again
Mitch Vass, I'm having the same problem, can't pull it out. I'm gonna try to do what you said with the screwdriver and hopefully I can get it out before I go nuts.
Sweet! Loved how you started the video with the crank sound the car makes when you turn the key, that helped me confirm that it's the same sound my friends car makes. Plus showing where the sensor is and tools required will help me fix his car 😎 he's a janitor at my work and he needs his car but don't make a lot of money so this will help him out 😎
Just finished work today on a 05 Sentra 1.8, I WANTED TO SAY THIS WAS SPOT ON EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED!!!!! Iam not crafty enough ha ha. To complete without taking off the bracket , Thanks again I really appreciate your video and time and effort... God Bless 👍👏✊👊✌out
Love this guys cool accent. Excellent video. You cover all the important details and despite the tight area you're working in you can see everything just fine. No easy task, but you did it well. Thanks for the great video for the rest of us dummies.
Very helpful for my 2005 Sentra 1.8S. For those of you that need to replace this thing, the bracket that is mentioned as an "optional" removal, I would recommend just removing it. Removing the bracket gives you the additional leverage needed to remove this thing, at least on mine that was stuck in there real good.
Victor. Thank you for your video! Your video, as well as a video from @Alfred gave me a good ideal of how to change the crank shaft sensor on my 2006 Nissan Sentra. The hardest thing for me was taking the sensor out! My neighbor helped me out with that as he was able to somehow get it out. I decided not to move the bracket. It was a good learning experience! Thanks again!
Great vid. This helped a lot. If you try this, definitely take his advice and remove the bracket. 3 bolts and it just takes a couple of minutes to remove and replace. I used a craftsman low profile ratchet for the whole repair, its really small and fits in there nicely. This can be really hard to remove. I tried several different methods and after (accidentally) breaking off the screw hole tab, I used a needle nose vice grip pliers(smaller the better) to get it out. I used the new sensor to gauge how wide to set the pliers and then it took a little while to get the angle right but once it caught, I was able to pull it right out. Using an adjustable vise grip allows you to grab it but not put too much pressure on it and risk snapping it.
Great video. I had to unscrew the bracket also, which was fairly easy and quick. But pulling out the sensor was very dificult. I had to pry it out with a flat-head screw driver.
Awesome video, man. I'm not gay or anything, but your accent makes the video bearable. In all honesty, shot angles were good and it's just what I needed. Thanks!
I just did this this weekend and I found it easier to come from the top. Remove the air intake and starter because the sensor was so hard to remove from the bottom of the car.
I just did this on my 2003 manual N16 EU model. I just undid the 10mm bolt without taking any sort of bracket of. Then rotated the tab part with the hole in it so that it is free to grab, and yanked that sob right out with small pliers. Needed quiet some force to pull out.
considering the limited space on these cars this video makes the job look easy if you know what you are doing --- a lot easier if the car can be rasied a bit higher
Mine was super soaked in some oil and water 😲but from were ? I just clean with brake clean the conector and the crankshaft sensor as Well let dry and connect and start immediately 😆💪🏾tanks for your video
I had a problem getting sensor out so I tied a winch strap to it and put the other end on my hitch and pulled it out about 2 mils and used a screwdriver to get it out the rest of the way
nice video. i have changed my thermostat on my nissan 05 1.8 it stalls when i start the car, once in a while. especially when i go to the store. wait 20 mins and try to start the car it will stall. i will be changing the crankshaft to see if it helps
Jesus coils and spark is fine. crank sensor changed, fuel pump changed, throttle position sensor changed, and swirl valve sensor change. Start car to check if fuel is flooded keep gassing while trying to start. It took a while but car cranked over and got it started. OMG stress relief! Now to get broken dipped stick out of pipe.... This will help the people if you need car fixed. I should of made a video but to late.
it is a real pain to get it out once you unbolt the 10mm bolt, they only way you will get it out it to stick a flat head screwdriver under the connector where 10mm bolt goes, that way you need to move the screwdriver up and down to get it out. It worked for me after trying everything else.
1 month ago my nissan was scan and found code P0335, use to have hard start and stops while ideling. Finally refused to start a week ago. I changed crankshaft sensor at the back of engine, maintained the camshaft sensor on top of the engine and the car will not still start. i went further to test the resistances of the three sensors.2.74Mohms old crankshaft, 6.98Mohms new crankshaft and 3.89Mohms camshaft.
This may just be my problem as well. The car does crank over but then dies as soon as it does. I'll be doing the crank and cam sensors as soon as payday arrives 😀
Thank you so much Victor ! Really helpful ! I've just changed my crankshaft position sensor, only issue my yellow engine light on the dashboard is still on... do you think I must go to the garage to have it removed or do I still have a problem ?
boulala21 thanks for the question! I came to that conclusion, after checking multiple other possibilities that the code was giving me, plus I went to a local mechanic and he confirmed that and wanted USD 490 to replace it...this is why I’ve made this video
@@mfusion9192 yeah same story here, they charging me 300 for it and I can get both crank and cam for around 130 just the parts but we have scanned the car twice and no code shows up. Did it show on yours when scanned? thanks for replying
boulala21 i see, well, I remember back then, I also had my spark plugs replaced...the cam and crankshaft sensors are the cheapest and easiest to replace...bear in mind that this model also is known for the bad harness, and that is not worth to even try...too expensive of a repair...
Until a few days ago when my car started to stall again, it turns out that my thermostat and cam/crankshaft position sensor needed to be changed. I fixed the thermostat yesterday, that was an easy job. Just as easy as changing out the cam/crankshaft position sensor's. My only problem now is getting underneath the car and finding the other one to change. Smdh!!!
I changed my sensor still didn't work. Changed my fuel pump still didn't work. One spark coil is changed but do you think it's the coils that's making it not start up?
Hi. Can anyone tell me why the radiator hoses in this 18L Nissan Sentra are like that? Weird! The hose coming out of the Thermostat Housing goes to the bottom of the radiator???? The hot coolant coming from the engine should go to the top of radiator to get cool down on its way to the bottom of the radiator and get return to the engine. Am I correct????
عندي سياره سني موديل 2000 محرك 1600 القط الاسود عندي عطل سياره تختنق بالبنزين عندما تشغيل السياره اول مره اذا ما اشتغلت سياره تختلف الا افتح فيشه مال في بم افصخ وادير علي المحرك ثم ارجعها تشتغل السياره ثم امشي في السياره السياره متكتفه ثم تمشي سياره تواصل التقاطع تقف 5 دقائق تمشي ثم تطفي السياره الا اوسخ الفيشه مال الفيت بم ثم تشتغل ما هو السبب اريد مترجم عربي وشكرا
excellent video... but that sensor is a pain in the ass to pull out... u might be lucky enough to be as easy as the crankshaft but u might be in for a surprise
+Tim Jay (timjay8994) Hope you got it out! If not, it is being held in by the o-ring. Twisting it will help a little. It comes out in a straight back direction (Toward the back of the car.). I was able to get in there with a flat blade screwdriver and pry on it to get it out. DO SO VERY GENTLY! The sensor is plastic and you don't want to break it off inside your engine. It will come out if you work at it for a bit. I did finally remove the brace for the intake manifold. I think it did provide me with more room to work. Next time I might try it without removing the brace. If you can get in there ok with the screwdriver to pry out the sensor, you shouldn't have to remove the brace.
+Tim Jay (timjay8994) Hi Tim, I've just seen your post. If your car can be started, I recommend you start it, once warmed up, you'll be able to pull the crankshaft sensor easily. Just be careful, not to burn yourself. Good luck!
Ha A If you have the symptoms mentioned, it is most probably the sensor. However that is not always the case, but the only way to figure that out is by replacing it.
Yes the top and bottom crankshaft and camshaft position sensors are the same part. One goes on the top of your engine in the front (very easy to locate) and the other goes underneath (pain in the ass to get to) lol. I've had this issue for months and months on my 2001 NISSAN Sentra 1.8L It has given me so much stress, I just want to kill somebody. Lol This video is excellent, good job! Last February I believe it was I took my car to a Nissan dealership. They were going to charge me $848 or something like that to replace my cam/crankshaft position sensor's. I decided to do my own research and as soon as I Googled/TH-camd a few videos I instantly became a TH-cam mechanic. Lol.. I was able to fix the one on top of the engine very quickly and save myself a lot of money. The only issue for me was getting to the other sensor underneath. The oil filter was in the way and something else also was in the way. Smh ! I just left it alone and didn't have any issues stalling anymore.
+James Premet A few days ago..My car also had this problem ...I even refer to youtube, i kept sending my car to workshop ..while waiting the mechanic to checking my engine.. suddenly i on the youtube, and i found this video...atlast i was teach the formen to solve the problem...haha...thanks lot for this video..
After spending seven hours underneath of my car Monday and three hours underneath of it yesterday I finally got the crank position sensor out from underneath of the engine ! She's running again !! WoooHoo
Just completed this job on my 2003 Sentra GXE 1.8 and found this video to be one of the most helpful on the subject on TH-cam. Some tips that might be helpful to anyone else attempting this: (1) start with a cold or warm (NOT HOT) engine, vehicle in park, set the parking brake, chock both back wheels and then jack the front end up high, you will appreciate the clearance when you are working under it. MAKE SURE you position two quality jack stands appropriately to support the weight of the vehicle BEFORE even thinking about getting under there! (2) remove the passenger side front wheel and remove the plastic wheel well engine shroud. This will make it much easier to get your arm deep in there to work on the sensor. (3) get a good, bright portable LED worklight to help you see better under the car. Harbor Freight makes a nice one with articulating head for not much $ (4) use the information in this video regarding removing the intake manifold brace and move it aside, this makes it much easier to work on the CPS. You need to remove some airbox items up top to make it easier to get to the bolts to loosen the top end of the brace. (5) my original CPS was in my engine undisturbed for 21 years, and it was a BITCH to remove it because after all that time, the rubber o-ring swells. Once I removed the small bolt that holds it in, I found that using a long handle gasket scraper was the perfect tool to get under the sensor screw hole bracket and start to carefully pry the sensor loose from the engine. Some people use a screwdriver, I found that a narrow long handle gasket scraper makes it much easier to get under the screw hole bracket of the sensor compared to a screwdriver. Have patience, doing this yourself is not a job for the impatient person. Keep wiggling the gasket scraper under the screw hole bracket of the sensor, you will start to see the sensor move away from the engine. WHILE PRYING BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK THE PLASTIC SENSOR BRACKET OR THE CONNECTOR, if you do it will be much, much harder to remove the sensor! Eventually, with patience the old sensor will break free of the engine and you will be able to pull it out with your fingers. Words to the wise: take it easy, be careful and have patience getting the old sensor out. If you are not a careful and patient person, you will be FAR better off taking this to a professional mechanic than rushing it and breaking your sensor off in the engine. (6) Coat the rubber o-ring of your new sensor with clean engine oil before attempting to install it. You will find that your new sensor will be MUCH easier to install that it was removing the old sensor!! I used a genuine Hitachi CPS0007 sensor to replace my old sensor, Hitachi was the OEM supplier of this part to Nissan. Cost me about $32 for the part, I've seen them on Amazon and RockAuto for around $37 or $38. Think twice about cheaping out on this part, the $12 sensors on Ebay, Amazon, and Aliexpress don't always work properly and I would not want to have to do this PITA job again.
Putting this all back together is easy, just make sure you don't leave out any bolts or forget to properly reconnect your topside air box. I found job to be way more of a bitch that it will appear to be, and it sucks lying on your back struggling with the old sensor. Honestly if you could get this job done for $200 or less, and you just don't love this kind of work, you might want to just get it done at a shop. If you do that, make sure they warranty their work as well as the part, and are using either the Hitachi or the genuine Nissan part.
Awesome video! Thanks! I was able to change the sensor in about an hour without removing the bracket. The ideal combination seems to be a stubby ratchet and a long 10mm socket. I was also able to place a small mirror towards the firewall that allowed me to position the socket. The other thing I'd recommend is removing the sensor before unplugging it. The plug can be a real pain. I wish all automotive companies would agree on a similar plug-in design for sensors so you don't have to guess how each one works. Anyway, with the sensor removed and dangling freely it's a lot easier to to get that plug off.
The hardest mechanic work I have done in many years! My brother and I worked on my car (2005 Nissan Sentra) for two days trying to get to this thing. I am 66 years old and my brother is 71, (plus it was horribly hot outside and I have cancer), so I guess all that had a factor in our problems; but on my car, it is almost impossible to get to it. After you remove the bolt holding the sensor in place, then it was real difficult to get the proper leverage to pop the sensor out (held in tight with 'O' ring tension).
If it comes up again, I'm paying somebody to do this!
Got it....Yup it gets stuck good, I finally turned the sensor hole to towrards the top, the screw down tab and then it will stick out a little.
Where it sticks out and with a large screw driver against the block, and turned the screw drive and pop out it came. I tried pryingwith a little screw diriver on the the bottom of it , no go, alomost gave up. Tooks hour to finally get it out hope this helps.
Mitch Vass
Good idea!
RonRay it is a pain in the ass... for a moment it came to my mind if there was something else holding it... i tried for 3 hrs today... ill try tomorrow again
I feel you, Hugo! We discussed the need for a special tool that would do just this... and I would have bought it!
Mitch Vass, I'm having the same problem, can't pull it out. I'm gonna try to do what you said with the screwdriver and hopefully I can get it out before I go nuts.
Sweet! Loved how you started the video with the crank sound the car makes when you turn the key, that helped me confirm that it's the same sound my friends car makes. Plus showing where the sensor is and tools required will help me fix his car 😎 he's a janitor at my work and he needs his car but don't make a lot of money so this will help him out 😎
Just finished work today on a 05 Sentra 1.8, I WANTED TO SAY THIS WAS SPOT ON EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED!!!!! Iam not crafty enough ha ha. To complete without taking off the bracket , Thanks again I really appreciate your video and time and effort... God Bless 👍👏✊👊✌out
Love this guys cool accent. Excellent video. You cover all the important details and despite the tight area you're working in you can see everything just fine. No easy task, but you did it well. Thanks for the great video for the rest of us dummies.
David Louk thank you!
Very helpful for my 2005 Sentra 1.8S. For those of you that need to replace this thing, the bracket that is mentioned as an "optional" removal, I would recommend just removing it. Removing the bracket gives you the additional leverage needed to remove this thing, at least on mine that was stuck in there real good.
Victor. Thank you for your video! Your video, as well as a video from @Alfred gave me a good ideal of how to change the crank shaft sensor on my 2006 Nissan Sentra. The hardest thing for me was taking the sensor out! My neighbor helped me out with that as he was able to somehow get it out. I decided not to move the bracket. It was a good learning experience! Thanks again!
Great vid. This helped a lot. If you try this, definitely take his advice and remove the bracket. 3 bolts and it just takes a couple of minutes to remove and replace. I used a craftsman low profile ratchet for the whole repair, its really small and fits in there nicely. This can be really hard to remove. I tried several different methods and after (accidentally) breaking off the screw hole tab, I used a needle nose vice grip pliers(smaller the better) to get it out. I used the new sensor to gauge how wide to set the pliers and then it took a little while to get the angle right but once it caught, I was able to pull it right out. Using an adjustable vise grip allows you to grab it but not put too much pressure on it and risk snapping it.
Great video. I had to unscrew the bracket also, which was fairly easy and quick. But pulling out the sensor was very dificult. I had to pry it out with a flat-head screw driver.
Awesome video, man. I'm not gay or anything, but your accent makes the video bearable. In all honesty, shot angles were good and it's just what I needed. Thanks!
You’re so gay
Fantstic...thank you. Getting that bracket out of the way is a great tip
awesome video sir. easy job to do i was planning to paid a mechanic no way i am doing it my self. thanks for sharing a great video
Thank you for posting this video extremely helpful. Fixed my Sentra from this vide much appreciated.
I just did this this weekend and I found it easier to come from the top. Remove the air intake and starter because the sensor was so hard to remove from the bottom of the car.
This video was very helpful!!!!
This video saved me a lot of money thanks a lot brother 💪💪💪 that sensor gave me a hard time to get it out wow I was about to just junk the car 😂😂🔥
How'd you get it out?
@@youngmacroll5121 you need to carefully pry it out with small flat head or a nylon pry bar the ones used to remove plastic
@@nycmotoblog913 I did it thank you my g
@@youngmacroll5121 cool glad to help as people have helped me here
You are a master mechanic
Thanks for the video so helpful I change the 2 sensors on my Sentra the one one top easy piece of cake the other one one bottom pain in the ass Lol.
I just did this on my 2003 manual N16 EU model. I just undid the 10mm bolt without taking any sort of bracket of. Then rotated the tab part with the hole in it so that it is free to grab, and yanked that sob right out with small pliers. Needed quiet some force to pull out.
considering the limited space on these cars this video makes the job look easy if you know what you are doing --- a lot easier if the car can be rasied a bit higher
Thank you @victor kalchev Good tutorial, ya lo hice
Mine was super soaked in some oil and water
😲but from were ? I just clean with brake clean the conector and the crankshaft sensor as
Well let dry and connect and start immediately 😆💪🏾tanks for your video
Very detailed, thanks.
THANKS GOOD VIDEO HELPFUL......
Mine is in the shop for this, going to be about $300 for diagnostic and labor 😬 !!!! Oh well I never would have figured it out on my own!
I had a problem getting sensor out so I tied a winch strap to it and put the other end on my hitch and pulled it out about 2 mils and used a screwdriver to get it out the rest of the way
nice video. i have changed my thermostat on my nissan 05 1.8 it stalls when i start the car, once in a while. especially when i go to the store. wait 20 mins and try to start the car it will stall. i will be changing the crankshaft to see if it helps
Thanks man !! and appreciate it that information,and awesome video man!!..
Jesus coils and spark is fine. crank sensor changed, fuel pump changed, throttle position sensor changed, and swirl valve sensor change. Start car to check if fuel is flooded keep gassing while trying to start. It took a while but car cranked over and got it started. OMG stress relief! Now to get broken dipped stick out of pipe.... This will help the people if you need car fixed. I should of made a video but to late.
Hey you can use an air hose and blow it out. Look here on YT .
Next step is to change the car
it is a real pain to get it out once you unbolt the 10mm bolt, they only way you will get it out it to stick a flat head screwdriver under the connector where 10mm bolt goes, that way you need to move the screwdriver up and down to get it out. It worked for me after trying everything else.
Excelente muchas gracias 💪
1 month ago my nissan was scan and found code P0335, use to have hard start and stops while ideling. Finally refused to start a week ago. I changed crankshaft sensor at the back of engine, maintained the camshaft sensor on top of the engine and the car will not still start. i went further to test the resistances of the three sensors.2.74Mohms old crankshaft, 6.98Mohms new crankshaft and 3.89Mohms camshaft.
Hello did you ever get it going. I think sometimes it is the immobilizer or maybe even the key transponder.
good work
This may just be my problem as well. The car does crank over but then dies as soon as it does. I'll be doing the crank and cam sensors as soon as payday arrives 😀
Thank you so much Victor ! Really helpful !
I've just changed my crankshaft position sensor, only issue my yellow engine light on the dashboard is still on... do you think I must go to the garage to have it removed or do I still have a problem ?
Julien Lemoing, you're welcome! I would try to disconnect the battery and see if this resets the yellow engine light :)
hey man greay video but I wonder how did you actually know it was the crankshaft sensor the one that was causing the problem. Thanks
boulala21 thanks for the question! I came to that conclusion, after checking multiple other possibilities that the code was giving me, plus I went to a local mechanic and he confirmed that and wanted USD 490 to replace it...this is why I’ve made this video
@@mfusion9192 yeah same story here, they charging me 300 for it and I can get both crank and cam for around 130 just the parts but we have scanned the car twice and no code shows up. Did it show on yours when scanned? thanks for replying
boulala21 There was a code, but long time ago, don’t remember the exact one...you should be able to find the parts at stores like Autozone for less.
@@victorkalchev4245 yeah there's no code for me and I'm in Australia haha
boulala21 i see, well, I remember back then, I also had my spark plugs replaced...the cam and crankshaft sensors are the cheapest and easiest to replace...bear in mind that this model also is known for the bad harness, and that is not worth to even try...too expensive of a repair...
Until a few days ago when my car started to stall again, it turns out that my thermostat and cam/crankshaft position sensor needed to be changed. I fixed the thermostat yesterday, that was an easy job. Just as easy as changing out the cam/crankshaft position sensor's.
My only problem now is getting underneath the car and finding the other one to change. Smdh!!!
I changed my sensor still didn't work. Changed my fuel pump still didn't work. One spark coil is changed but do you think it's the coils that's making it not start up?
FishinNinja it is very possible that the coils failed.
What was it finally ? Having same issue
Hi. Can anyone tell me why the radiator hoses in this 18L Nissan Sentra are like that? Weird! The hose coming out of the Thermostat Housing goes to the bottom of the radiator???? The hot coolant coming from the engine should go to the top of radiator to get cool down on its way to the bottom of the radiator and get return to the engine. Am I correct????
عندي سياره سني موديل 2000 محرك 1600 القط الاسود عندي عطل سياره تختنق بالبنزين عندما تشغيل السياره اول مره اذا ما اشتغلت سياره تختلف الا افتح فيشه مال في بم افصخ وادير علي المحرك ثم ارجعها تشتغل السياره ثم امشي في السياره السياره متكتفه ثم تمشي سياره تواصل التقاطع تقف 5 دقائق تمشي ثم تطفي السياره الا اوسخ الفيشه مال الفيت بم ثم تشتغل ما هو السبب اريد مترجم عربي وشكرا
excellent video... but that sensor is a pain in the ass to pull out... u might be lucky enough to be as easy as the crankshaft but u might be in for a surprise
Is this for 2001 as well?
whats is the crankshafth position sensor A ?
Why is the sensor so difficult to remove? I removed the screw and the sensor is hard to remove? Helpppppp
+Tim Jay (timjay8994) Hope you got it out!
If not, it is being held in by the o-ring. Twisting it will help a little. It comes out in a straight back direction (Toward the back of the car.). I was able to get in there with a flat blade screwdriver and pry on it to get it out. DO SO VERY GENTLY! The sensor is plastic and you don't want to break it off inside your engine. It will come out if you work at it for a bit. I did finally remove the brace for the intake manifold. I think it did provide me with more room to work. Next time I might try it without removing the brace. If you can get in there ok with the screwdriver to pry out the sensor, you shouldn't have to remove the brace.
+Tim Jay (timjay8994) Hi Tim, I've just seen your post. If your car can be started, I recommend you start it, once warmed up, you'll be able to pull the crankshaft sensor easily. Just be careful, not to burn yourself. Good luck!
wher is the crank sensor located on a 2003sentra haveing trouble getting it started
Cody McGee Should be right under the alternator mines a 2002 Nissan Sentra.
How to check if this sensor is bad before ordering a new one?
Ha A If you have the symptoms mentioned, it is most probably the sensor. However that is not always the case, but the only way to figure that out is by replacing it.
@@victorkalchev4245 Thank you Victor.
You won't get rpm signal
up and down crank sensor..
Are these two things are the same?
Yes the top and bottom crankshaft and camshaft position sensors are the same part. One goes on the top of your engine in the front (very easy to locate) and the other goes underneath (pain in the ass to get to) lol. I've had this issue for months and months on my 2001 NISSAN Sentra 1.8L
It has given me so much stress, I just want to kill somebody. Lol
This video is excellent, good job! Last February I believe it was I took my car to a Nissan dealership. They were going to charge me $848 or something like that to replace my cam/crankshaft position sensor's. I decided to do my own research and as soon as I Googled/TH-camd a few videos I instantly became a TH-cam mechanic. Lol.. I was able to fix the one on top of the engine very quickly and save myself a lot of money. The only issue for me was getting to the other sensor underneath. The oil filter was in the way and something else also was in the way. Smh !
I just left it alone and didn't have any issues stalling anymore.
+James Premet
A few days ago..My car also had this problem ...I even refer to youtube, i kept sending my car to workshop ..while waiting the mechanic to checking my engine.. suddenly i on the youtube, and i found this video...atlast i was teach the formen to solve the problem...haha...thanks lot for this video..
+Syafiq Zafran How's your car now? Is it running, is it fixed?
+James Premet perfact good normalcy
After spending seven hours underneath of my car Monday and three hours underneath of it yesterday I finally got the crank position sensor out from underneath of the engine ! She's running again !! WoooHoo
Чем можно его вытащить?
is this the same for a 2.0 litre engine?
meestadeuce I cannot tell for sure, but I doubt it’s any different.
is the 2002 sentra the same as 2004m
Unfortunately I am not sure if there are any modifications.
Victor Kalchev Thanks Again you did a wonderful job just finished and commented today
I did twisting pulling ain't coming out
Me too
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