I am by no means an electronic expert, but I can recognise quality workmanship. I am making my way through all your videos. Came across your channel by accident and all I say is that is it fascinating. Many years ago I have opened up my headphones to swap the cable but I think I damaged the pads by over heating. So I am amazed that you can solder such small components. My eyesight would definitely not allow for such close work.
Hi . Thank you for your lovely comment and for watching the videos. I just like to share what soldering knowledge I have picked up over the years and hopefully help a few people with their soldering issues. I'm glad you have found them enjoyable . I'm sorry the music is a bit loud in the earlier videos ( problems now been sorted as my editing skills weren't great early on) . Anyway thanks again , your time is much appreciated 👍
I realize this is an older video. Your repair will absolutely work. They actually make circuit board repair kits that include every size pad and runner for most any type circuit board repair. And those kits include feed throughs as well in multiple diameter sizes. When I was in aircraft circuit repair, we even repaired totally burnt through circuits when a part literally burnt the board leaving a hole. Yes, that can be repaired as well... Thumbs Up!
Hi , thank you for your comment. I just like to show people how to maybe fix their products with parts from scrap boards etc , just giving them another option . Some people may go down the route you've suggested but I always like to use pads from scrap boards and also IC legs from old components because I can get the exact size I need to match the originals from somewhere on these boards . Sometimes I've found the kits don't have the exact shape I've needed .Thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you for your support , it makes all the videos worthwhile. I'm happy you find them useful , that's all I try to do , help a few people where I can . Thanks again 👍
Your work in replacing the pad is perfect. For traces I prefer wire and mask, because sometimes we have 1mm missing traces to repair, and the wire technic is better for longer traces. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the instruction, I just managed to to solder a power supply cable straight to the board on a GPS navigation computer after the micro USB power plug broke off the board. Great advice in your video.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you found the video of use , if I can help anyone then that's great. Good luck with all your soldering projects and thanks again for watching the video 👍
Great vid. Last night I was messing with a solar charger board (Cn3722 ic) and managed to make a mess of it. Found this vid and the biggest thing that I got out of it was that you are light years ahead of me LOL! My hands are shakey, my eyesight is terrible, my magnifying glass gets in the way no matter where I put it. Blah blah blah. I think I should find a house in your area and buy you beers until you offer to teach me how it's done. Mate you make it look so easy. Top stuff and fantastic work. :-)
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I've just been doing it a long time I guess , but with practice everyone will get better. My biggest 3 tips are a decent iron ( Weller or Metcal ) different thickness solders ( 0.25mm is amazing for fine pitch ) and you MUST use flux . People say it's in the solder , yes , but that flux is burnt off soon as your iron hits it . Thanks again and good luck with your projects 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 cheers for your encouragement. I will keep trying for sure. Its really my first crack at surface mount stuff and I'm not one for giving up without a fight. Electronics is just my hobby, but can be incredibly frustrating!!
Thanks, just managed to to solder a power supply cable straight to the board on a GPS navigation computer after the micro USB power plug broke off the board. Great advice in your video.
Please turn down your music level or turn up your voice level to closely match each other! Great repairs on the board. Thanks for posting and take care!
Hi , thank you for your comment. This issue has been sorted out for about the last 20 videos. I've changed my editing system and now match voice and music pretty evenly . Hopefully it didn't spoil the video for you . I was learning in the early days with editing and I hope people can see a difference in quality of picture and sound . Thanks again , take care 👍
You make this so interesting to watch, I've just watched about 5 on the trot. You make it look easy, that's the sign of a professional . Thanks for posting
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment, much appreciated. It took me a while to get my video's to a better standard but hopefully I'm getting there ( music was to loud , picture not quite as clear ) but I have better equipment now and a bit more knowledge. I'm glad you still enjoyed them though , thanks again 👍
My soldering generally looks like a walrus suffering from vertigo tried to fix a PCB using a blowtorch whilst riding the swinging ships at a theme park. But thanks to your videos, I think I'm getting better.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated. I'm glad the videos have been helpful , my early ones were a bit sketchy ( picture + sound ) but I have tried to improve them as I've gone along , hopefully people will understand this. Soldering is a lot about practice and eventually learning the right soldering iron tips and solder sizes to use for certain jobs . I've tried to cover lots of subjects but I've still got more to show ( when I get some spare time I will film more ) , so just keep experimenting on scrap boards for example and you will definitely improve as you go . Thanks again and good luck in the future , take care 👍
Man, your videos are so great and you are a MASTER of your craft. Kudos! I have spent the last day and a half watching all of your videos and going back over them to watch your technique and hear you talk. Many thanks from over here in the Midwest U.S and keep up the awesome work!!
Hi . I'm really glad you have enjoyed the videos and it's great that they are being watched in the U.S , I really appreciate your support and hopefully you pick up some good tips from the videos . Comments like this really keep me going and I still have lots of tips to share with you.Thanks again , keep looking out for more videos👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. No matter what the state of some situations on PCB's there is often a way you can fix them . I've tried to cover a few different issues in this video . One day I will post another disaster situation like this now that I have better cameras etc so you can see it even clearer . Thanks again for your support of my channel , very kind of you, take care 👍
Nice... I have to admit I was surprised you didn't bond the pad down with underfill or a high temp glue of some sort... but it indeed was functional! love your videos.
Hi . Thank you for your comment . I tend to sometimes put a bond of glue after the fix is complete ( araldite , Tak Pak etc ) around the edge of pads etc , but in this case I actually bonded down the component for extra strength. Every repair I find varies what I need to do but I guess if anyone wants extra strength of course they could glue down the pads. I only tend to use underfill on BGA devices but you need a hotplate to do this properly. Thanks again for watching , much appreciated 👍
Enjoyable to watch and admire - crucial is that magnification! You previously commented that you use a"long reach stereo microscope from a company called GT Vision." What is the magnification? As a hobbyist, I'm looking for something "good enough" at a hobbyist price point.
Hi . Thanks for watching the video , much appreciated. All my filming is actually done on a phone camera . I attach a macro lens to my phone camera and this enlarges the work perfectly for what I need . I just place it next to the work taking place and film it . Most people use the microscope camera which films directly from above , but I prefer angles from the side etc. My scope is 40 X vision which is plenty good enough for even the smallest parts . You can change the lenses on scopes so I could strengthen if I need to .Mine cost about £900 , which is probably to much for the hobbyist but I'm sure their are plenty of good second hand ones way cheaper. The long reach is a good idea as you can fit any size pcb under it which to me is vital. Thanks again , and good luck 👍
On the capacitor, why do you not stick the pad down rather sticking the component? I have seen videos when the pad is stuck down with epoxy. Would this not allow the component to be replaced in the future. Thanks.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad the video was useful for you and that you managed to repair your component , great job . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Hi . Thank you for your great comment . Im really glad you enjoy the videos . I just want to show people what can be achieved and hopefully they learn some new techniques and give them a try. I will keep posting to share my knowledge with you all , so thank you once again.
Very nice and clean work 😁 Now a challenge for you :) How would one go about getting those tiny pads under the IC back in place, if they (by accident) got "removed"?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. In one of my older TH-cam postings ( Repairing damaged pads , " The Invisible Fix" ) I actually transpose a couple of 'tiny' IC pads onto another board where they were missing and make it look " invisible" . As it's an older video the quality isn't as good as I get now but it's still well worth watching and has proved quite popular for viewers. Hope that helps and thank you again for watching 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I will defently take a look at that one :) Been looking at a diagram of the IC and the 2 pads that are missing, 1 is not being used according to the diagram and 2nd is shorted to another one of the pins 🤔
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . The band marking on SMD capacitors denotes the Anode ( positive end ) , SMD diodes the band denotes the negative end . So in this instance the capacitor was fitted the correct way. Thank you again for your time , take care 👍
Hi . Thank you I'm glad you enjoy the videos . I just like to show people how I fix things and hopefully I can help a few people along the way . Thank you for watching , its much appreciated 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment and your support of my channel , very kind of you . If I can help a few people with my soldering videos then I'm happy . I just like to pass on what I know . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment. That was the sound of the activator for the glue ( Tak Pak ) that I was using . It comes in a small aerosol can and was just the sound of it being sprayed around the capacitor. Hope that helps 👍
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , very much appreciated . I have a few more boards with similar damage on to this board . I will try and post these repairs in the near future . Thanks again , take care 👍
Brilliant video very skilled. I wanted to send you some photos of a pcb from my drone which got hot & melted the micro plug from the Geomagnetism Sensor--compass it’s made a mess of the board (some broken traces but I can’t see where the plug would go or the 4 wires from it. I couldn’t see an email address. Hope you can help.
Hi, I have an ic that I was trying to replace, and while cleaning the board after removing the original, one of the pads came off. I'm trying to put it back on, and wanted your advice. The component has a soldering plate under it so I wouldn't need to for it down like you did but what is the best way to hold the loose pass in place while I solder the ic, can I use a drop of any glue or only a specific type, or is there a better way to do that? Thanks, and thanks for the great video.
Hi . Thank you for watching , much appreciated. I find the best way to hold the pad in position when your soldering it is to either put light pressure on the top of the pin so as the pin holds down the pad in position and doing this way you need your iron already loaded with roughly the correct amount of solder to form a good joint . You must use flux in this case or else you won't get a good joint . I can't emphasize enough how valuable flux is when soldering . Also another way is to get a fine pair of tweezers and with the pad in position hold them right on the edge of each side of the pad . Again pre flux your pad and preload your iron with the right amount of solder . Then just gently solder the joint and for me this always works . As for gluing the pad I always do this afterwards if necessary, never before as the heat just dislodges it . A good araldite or Tak Pak will do the job . Just run around the whole pad in question and should be ok . Hope that helps , and good luck 👍
Hi . Thank you for watching . The wire used in this video was 30 gauge kynar wire available from Farnell , RS Components ,Rapid Online and many other electronic retailers . I always mention what I use but I never claim to provide links to products . I don't endorse any products and just advise what I use . Ive mentioned what flux I use SMFL200D many times in the comments section , where I get my solders , my cleaning wipes , cleaning fluids and what irons I use etc many times also in the comments section and sometimes in the description . I will never provide links . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for your support , much appreciated. I knew about the different volume levels so I corrected it for about my last 12 or so postings , so these and future ones should have roughly the same speech and music volume . Thanks again and good luck 👍
Hi , thank you for subscribing , very much appreciated. I hope you enjoyed the video . I've tried to improve as I've gone along with my TH-cam postings , and I will always post more when I can . Good luck with all your soldering projects and thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for your support , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I just wanted to show that big problems can be fixed so hopefully people can save their boards. I will do more repair videos in the future . Thanks again 👍
Hello and thank you for presentation.What type of flux and soldering wire, RMA223 or Amtech 559 nc, or other: 0.5, 0.7 or 0.8 mm for soldering wire, with rosin core or 60/40 Sn-Pb, or 63/37 without rosin core?
Hi . The flux I use is called SMFL200D rework flux . It's a great flux and it's the only one I ever use , about £11 for a 200ml spray can . I squirt some into a small container then use a dipped Ty wrap to apply . The solder I use in my video's is lead free Sn100SB , 0.25mm supplied by a UK company called BLT. I also use 0.38mm + 0.5mm ( BLT ) for larger joints if needed. I do use leaded solder if people ask for it specifically. Hope that helps , thank you.
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment. The gauge wire that I used to replace the IC pin and the traces was 30 gauge Kynar wire , in this case the perfect size as I always try and match the size of wire to pins and traces to ensure perfect working signals . Hope that helps and thank you again. 👍
Hi . Over the years I've learnt hopefully not to do that as it does tend to cause chaos ( flying 0402's etc ) so not recommended even if I did , which I'm sure I didn't 👍
Hi . The glue I used here under the components was an Araldite 2 part glue which is strong but can be removed if needed to be. For sticking my wires down I used Loctite Tak Pak which is the recommended glue for doing this and comes as a 2 part glue and activator set. Hope that helps , thank you for your question🙂
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad the video's are helping you , that's why I like to make them . I will keep posting more soldering videos on TH-cam when I can ( I now get much clearer picture clarity than when this video was filmed , my last 5 are clearer ) as I've now worked out how to do my own editing . Thanks again and good luck with your soldering projects 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 The quality is great mate , I don't suppose you could tell me why my soldering tips oxidise within 2 minutes and then the solder won't stick to the tip . It only seems to do it with pointed tips not flat tips
Hi . This is a common problem , even I struggle with it at times . It's worse when you don't use your iron for long periods , I leave a ball of solder on the end of the tip before I turn it off , so when I return to it I can wipe this ball off and it's nicely tinned , this helps . Also if I'm struggling I very gently scrape the end of the tip with a blunt knife then quickly tin it , wipe it off , repeat this a few times and eventually I always get a nicely tinned tip . Hope you get on ok , but your not alone with your problem especially since lead free solder came out ( didn't really have this problem when using leaded solder ) , you can also get little tip tinning pots from Farnell , RS Components etc but I don't really rate them that highly , thanks for your comment and good luck 👍
Hi , thank you . I've recently worked out how to do my own editing on my videos so I now get better picture clarity ( my last 6 are a lot sharper ) so I will do more repair ones in the near future with better clarity . Thanks for your support , good luck 👍
Hi . Thank you . I think over the years I've realised you have to take your time and think about things more to try and work out a solution . This is what normally works for me nowadays. Thanks for your support , hopefully I can help a few people out 👍
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I'm glad you found the video useful. My later TH-cam postings are of a better quality than this one ( I was learning with cameras , sound etc ) but I'm glad you still found it enjoyable. Thanks again , take care and thank you for subscribing 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 You're welcome :) Now I'm gonna watch more videos from your channel as I want to learn more and more. I already repair consoles and stuff but still curious about soldering techniques ;) I guess having a better video quality will bring you more subscribers, fingers crossed ^^ Cheers from France
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel . Hopefully I'll keep getting a few more subscribers , and I'll always add new videos when I get some time to make them. Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I'm actually watching some of your videos, I'm at work now... 03 AM here... Why don't you open a Patreon or youtube subscription ? I would support you even more !
trying to solder on small antenna connectors on my phone. Melted the first one. When I was removing the connectors from the donor board, I melted one. I don't have any more room for error. any tips on not melting the black blastic on these small anetnna connectors?
Hi , I understand your problem , some connectors are made of such soft plastic it's like they are designed to fall apart as soon as you place any kind of direct heat on them . All I can suggest ( and I have used this method successfully ) is if your doner board is definitely scrap with no chance of it ever being saved , what I have done is with a scalpel blade I've cut underneath the whole connector taking the top layer of board off , pads and all , this enables you to lift the connector plus obviously some PCB with it . Then you can scalpel between the pins , separating them from each other and then pull off the pads , one by one quickly with an iron . What the connector doesn't like is heat run right across it all at the same time . I understand this sounds a bit extreme but I personally have achieved this . If successful when replacing do your joints one at a time very quickly . Hope that's of use . Good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you, good to know that I wasn't doing something absurdly wrong. I think I will try with a smaller soldering tip and being mindful of the heat. And maybe let it cool down first after 1 or 2 failed attempts to solder/desolder.
Hi . Thank you for your question . In this video I didn't actually need glue under the new pads because the bonded down components will perfectly keep them in place . I would normally put some Tak Pak glue ( made by Loctite ) around the edges of new pads to keep them in place . The glue I used to bond components down was an Araldite twin pack . I find if you glue pads down before soldering it just re melts the glue and makes a mess when you actually do the soldering. Hope that helps . Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
Hi . I've seen it on eBay for £ 8.99 and you can buy the activator separately for about £12 for a large can , so it can be found at a reasonable price . Hope that helps , thank you for your question 👍
Don't cut the lead when replacing broken IC legs like this, until _after_ you've soldered both joints. If you cut after doing only the 1st, that tiny short piece of wire has to absorb all that heat from your iron, instantly melting the solder at both joints when touching it. If you leave the cutting til last, there will be much more wire, thermal mass, to absorb the heat, and you'll have a bit of time to get a good flowing no.2 joint, without the 1st joint melting so fast. It will also be easier to maneuver the wire to line it up for joint no.2, with a long wire end to steer it by.
Hi . Thank you for your comment . I personally like to do it like this as you get a much neater end result and as long as you do the second joint quickly it's pretty easy as the first joint on the base of the pin has a lot more solder on it so will take a lot longer to melt than the second joint . I always say though everyone will pick the method that's suits them , I just wanted to show mine to give other options to everyone . Thanks again 👍
... Isn't the cap C38 put in the wrong way around ? Isn't the negative side marked with silver ? EDIT: just learned it ... For SMD caps it is opposite to the electrolytic ones 🙂
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Yes you can , no problem , the tape should solder ok . Do not use aluminium tape though as this doesn't solder at all well . Good luck with your project , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 appreciate it sir, I have a big project coming this weekend. To be on the safe side, I got the pre-cut pads as well, the same ones you are using on the video. Thanks for showing us the clever way!
Hi . Thank you for your question . My soldering iron was set to 350 degrees centigrade when I did this repair work . This is pretty much the temperature I do most work at and I find it's normally ok. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you for your comment . Ive posted a few repair videos , hopefully they can help a few people out with their PCB issues. Many thanks for viewing the videos , very kind of you 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment. The glue used is a glue that is recommended for PCB use called Tak Pak . It's perfect for mod wires , bonding components down etc and can be broken free and removed if required , but will also stay true if left alone. Use the opposite way to what your told , make sure you spray activator first over desired area , blow lightly until it's disappeared , then put a small bead of the glue over a wire for instance until you have the perfect shape . Doing it this way stops the glue being blown everywhere when using activating spray and makes it stronger . It goes white and brittle if activator is used second. Ebay , Amazon , Farnell , RS Components etc should sell it . Quite expensive but I've brought both glue and activator on eBay separately and paid a lot less . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi . If you go to my other postings I did an older video where I show modification wires being fitted . It's basically done the same way as that older video. All my trace wires I do a standard way no matter what the length is and I also show how I glue the wires down in the modifications video as well . I will do another one like this in the near future and I will make sure to show the way I do the wires . Hope that helps , thank you for watching 👍
Hey @Mr Solderfix is there any way I can send you an image of the damage I've had on my pcb an if wheather it can be fixed.. I'm really in need of help an want some advice
Hi , thank you for your comment. The green sleeved wire in this video is called Kynar and it's a 30 gauge wire . You can also buy Kynar strippers especially for this wire . Available from Farnell, RS Components, Rapid online or if in America Mouser or Digikey . This wires available also in many colours . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Stripping that pad with a scalpel and rolling it up, wasn't a technician's job, that was art. Btw, I found on EEVBLOG a recipe for making homemade flux. Since in Uruguay we lack access to specialized items, I tried to mix it. It was a great success! 30% en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin 3% of Glycerin and the rest of Isoprophil Alcohol at 99% to complete 1L. Mixed it on a 1L bottle and shaked it once a day for three days. Filtered and put in a syringe. Works a treat! As a tangential bonus, you can make different mixes and have less viscus mix side by side with a paste.
Hi , thank you for your comment. In this video I used 30 gauge Kynar wire which is a recommended wire for pcb modification work. I always try and match the damaged trace size with the wire I'm fitting as this is important for signals etc. Kynars a great wire and comes in all colours . Thanks again for watching 👍
Hi . I use a long reach stereo microscope from a company called GT Vision. All my filming though is done on a mobile phone with a macro lens attached to the camera lens . This gives different angles than a microscope camera and in my opinion better angles for seeing what's going on with the board . Hope that helps 👍
When I've seen SMT pins get ripped off, they usually rip flush to the package plastic leaving no little tab to solder onto. This seems like an unusual case.
Hi . In this case there was a little piece of leg to solder to , but it can be done if there is hardly any . You can chip away a tiny piece of the IC body surrounding the pin carefully with a scalpel and expose a small amount more of the pin giving you enough to join to. I made a complete youtube video on this showing an IC with 6 broken off legs and 2 ways to fix them Thanks for watching 👍
Hi . All you need to make an IC pin is some tin copper wire the same size as the pin . Then you can shape it like I have in the video. Hope that helps , thank you .
Hi . I've sorted this problem now on my last 3 or 4 videos . I'm not an editor so struggled but now got different camera etc so no problem anymore. Not much I can do about my early videos , I was only learning then. 👍
Hi, I don’t think I can DM on TH-cam. I’m trying to repair my ecu because someone removed the pin connector and some traces need to be repaired. Do you know a professional that can fix and test traces or would you be willing to to do a commission? You might get a TH-cam video out of it too. 🤷♀️ I asked around but all the people who work on car computers are scrubs and can’t do delicate work like this.😂 I’ve been asking around but like I said all the car guys who pretend to be hella good end up being scrubs.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . Your right and also lots of older IC's are not available anymore so repairing your old IC's can be very useful at times . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
Fantastic videos. You're very talented with micro work. Please PM me as I would like to talk to you about a possible small repair job if you're interested.
Hi . Thank you for your comment . I'm not taking on any outside repairs at this moment as I just want to concentrate on a few videos , but I may in the near future so worth checking in now and again , sorry for that . Thanks again 👍
I am by no means an electronic expert, but I can recognise quality workmanship. I am making my way through all your videos. Came across your channel by accident and all I say is that is it fascinating. Many years ago I have opened up my headphones to swap the cable but I think I damaged the pads by over heating. So I am amazed that you can solder such small components. My eyesight would definitely not allow for such close work.
Hi . Thank you for your lovely comment and for watching the videos. I just like to share what soldering knowledge I have picked up over the years and hopefully help a few people with their soldering issues. I'm glad you have found them enjoyable . I'm sorry the music is a bit loud in the earlier videos ( problems now been sorted as my editing skills weren't great early on) . Anyway thanks again , your time is much appreciated 👍
I realize this is an older video. Your repair will absolutely work. They actually make circuit board repair kits that include every size pad and runner for most any type circuit board repair. And those kits include feed throughs as well in multiple diameter sizes. When I was in aircraft circuit repair, we even repaired totally burnt through circuits when a part literally burnt the board leaving a hole. Yes, that can be repaired as well... Thumbs Up!
Hi , thank you for your comment. I just like to show people how to maybe fix their products with parts from scrap boards etc , just giving them another option . Some people may go down the route you've suggested but I always like to use pads from scrap boards and also IC legs from old components because I can get the exact size I need to match the originals from somewhere on these boards . Sometimes I've found the kits don't have the exact shape I've needed .Thanks again 👍
It's great to see a legit pro dealing with this kind of mental issue. I'm bingeing your videos
Hi . Thank you for your support , it makes all the videos worthwhile. I'm happy you find them useful , that's all I try to do , help a few people where I can . Thanks again 👍
Your work in replacing the pad is perfect. For traces I prefer wire and mask, because sometimes we have 1mm missing traces to repair, and the wire technic is better for longer traces. Thanks for sharing.
Hi . Thank you . If between us all we can help people that would be great . Thank you for your support 👍
Thanks for the instruction, I just managed to to solder a power supply cable straight to the board on a GPS navigation computer after the micro USB power plug broke off the board. Great advice in your video.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you found the video of use , if I can help anyone then that's great. Good luck with all your soldering projects and thanks again for watching the video 👍
Great vid. Last night I was messing with a solar charger board (Cn3722 ic) and managed to make a mess of it. Found this vid and the biggest thing that I got out of it was that you are light years ahead of me LOL!
My hands are shakey, my eyesight is terrible, my magnifying glass gets in the way no matter where I put it. Blah blah blah. I think I should find a house in your area and buy you beers until you offer to teach me how it's done. Mate you make it look so easy. Top stuff and fantastic work. :-)
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I've just been doing it a long time I guess , but with practice everyone will get better. My biggest 3 tips are a decent iron ( Weller or Metcal ) different thickness solders ( 0.25mm is amazing for fine pitch ) and you MUST use flux . People say it's in the solder , yes , but that flux is burnt off soon as your iron hits it . Thanks again and good luck with your projects 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 cheers for your encouragement. I will keep trying for sure. Its really my first crack at surface mount stuff and I'm not one for giving up without a fight.
Electronics is just my hobby, but can be incredibly frustrating!!
Thanks, just managed to to solder a power supply cable straight to the board on a GPS navigation computer after the micro USB power plug broke off the board. Great advice in your video.
Hi , thank you for your support , I'm glad you sorted out your problem . Sorry for the delayed answer . Thanks again for your support 👍
Please turn down your music level or turn up your voice level to closely match each other! Great repairs on the board. Thanks for posting and take care!
Hi , thank you for your comment. This issue has been sorted out for about the last 20 videos. I've changed my editing system and now match voice and music pretty evenly . Hopefully it didn't spoil the video for you . I was learning in the early days with editing and I hope people can see a difference in quality of picture and sound . Thanks again , take care 👍
You make this so interesting to watch, I've just watched about 5 on the trot. You make it look easy, that's the sign of a professional . Thanks for posting
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment, much appreciated. It took me a while to get my video's to a better standard but hopefully I'm getting there ( music was to loud , picture not quite as clear ) but I have better equipment now and a bit more knowledge. I'm glad you still enjoyed them though , thanks again 👍
My soldering generally looks like a walrus suffering from vertigo tried to fix a PCB using a blowtorch whilst riding the swinging ships at a theme park. But thanks to your videos, I think I'm getting better.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated. I'm glad the videos have been helpful , my early ones were a bit sketchy ( picture + sound ) but I have tried to improve them as I've gone along , hopefully people will understand this. Soldering is a lot about practice and eventually learning the right soldering iron tips and solder sizes to use for certain jobs . I've tried to cover lots of subjects but I've still got more to show ( when I get some spare time I will film more ) , so just keep experimenting on scrap boards for example and you will definitely improve as you go . Thanks again and good luck in the future , take care 👍
Man, your videos are so great and you are a MASTER of your craft. Kudos! I have spent the last day and a half watching all of your videos and going back over them to watch your technique and hear you talk. Many thanks from over here in the Midwest U.S and keep up the awesome work!!
Hi . I'm really glad you have enjoyed the videos and it's great that they are being watched in the U.S , I really appreciate your support and hopefully you pick up some good tips from the videos . Comments like this really keep me going and I still have lots of tips to share with you.Thanks again , keep looking out for more videos👍
Video yang bermanfaat teman.
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. Take care 👍
Once again, an excellent result. Thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. No matter what the state of some situations on PCB's there is often a way you can fix them . I've tried to cover a few different issues in this video . One day I will post another disaster situation like this now that I have better cameras etc so you can see it even clearer . Thanks again for your support of my channel , very kind of you, take care 👍
Nice... I have to admit I was surprised you didn't bond the pad down with underfill or a high temp glue of some sort... but it indeed was functional! love your videos.
Hi . Thank you for your comment . I tend to sometimes put a bond of glue after the fix is complete ( araldite , Tak Pak etc ) around the edge of pads etc , but in this case I actually bonded down the component for extra strength. Every repair I find varies what I need to do but I guess if anyone wants extra strength of course they could glue down the pads. I only tend to use underfill on BGA devices but you need a hotplate to do this properly. Thanks again for watching , much appreciated 👍
Enjoyable to watch and admire - crucial is that magnification! You previously commented that you use a"long reach stereo microscope from a company called GT Vision." What is the magnification? As a hobbyist, I'm looking for something "good enough" at a hobbyist price point.
Hi . Thanks for watching the video , much appreciated. All my filming is actually done on a phone camera . I attach a macro lens to my phone camera and this enlarges the work perfectly for what I need . I just place it next to the work taking place and film it . Most people use the microscope camera which films directly from above , but I prefer angles from the side etc. My scope is 40 X vision which is plenty good enough for even the smallest parts . You can change the lenses on scopes so I could strengthen if I need to .Mine cost about £900 , which is probably to much for the hobbyist but I'm sure their are plenty of good second hand ones way cheaper. The long reach is a good idea as you can fit any size pcb under it which to me is vital. Thanks again , and good luck 👍
Very useful interesting video. I am increasing my practical skills and your videos are great. Can you tell me what the glue is you used?. Thanks
On the capacitor, why do you not stick the pad down rather sticking the component? I have seen videos when the pad is stuck down with epoxy. Would this not allow the component to be replaced in the future. Thanks.
Just repaired a broken leg on a SOT-23 with the wire method.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad the video was useful for you and that you managed to repair your component , great job . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Thank you for your videos you're very very very good. I work on quartz watches and you are a great inspiration for me
Hi . Thank you for your great comment . Im really glad you enjoy the videos . I just want to show people what can be achieved and hopefully they learn some new techniques and give them a try. I will keep posting to share my knowledge with you all , so thank you once again.
Great video! Exactly what I needed to know.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you found the video useful , hopefully it can help you out . Good luck 👍
Very nice and clean work 😁
Now a challenge for you :) How would one go about getting those tiny pads under the IC back in place, if they (by accident) got "removed"?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. In one of my older TH-cam postings ( Repairing damaged pads , " The Invisible Fix" ) I actually transpose a couple of 'tiny' IC pads onto another board where they were missing and make it look " invisible" .
As it's an older video the quality isn't as good as I get now but it's still well worth watching and has proved quite popular for viewers. Hope that helps and thank you again for watching 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996
I will defently take a look at that one :) Been looking at a diagram of the IC and the 2 pads that are missing, 1 is not being used according to the diagram and 2nd is shorted to another one of the pins 🤔
Hello
What type of glue are you using and thank you!
Awesome thanks for the knowledge 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Nice work! Greetings from Brazil!
Hi , many thanks . I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful.
Good luck with your soldering projects and thanks again 👍
Awesome video. I wanted to ask about the first cap you replaced. C38. Is the polarity correct? I thought the white band is Negative?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . The band marking on SMD capacitors denotes the Anode ( positive end ) , SMD diodes the band denotes the negative end . So in this instance the capacitor was fitted the correct way. Thank you again for your time , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks. I just watched your video on how to read and solder SMD caps. Again, another Awesome video.
@denmartos6019 hi , thank you 👍
This stuff is so good I'm convinced you've actually got giant parts, a giant soldering iron and giant tweezers. Its not proper electronics at all.
Hi . Thank you I'm glad you enjoy the videos . I just like to show people how I fix things and hopefully I can help a few people along the way . Thank you for watching , its much appreciated 👍
You silly sod, its amazing. Watches most of your videos. Just wish I was half as good. :)
Good job!👍👍🤩🥰
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Excellent! Thank you.
Hi , thank you for your comment and your support of my channel , very kind of you . If I can help a few people with my soldering videos then I'm happy . I just like to pass on what I know . Thanks again , take care 👍
Its like a bought one ! Very neat.
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. I'm glad you found the video interesting 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 it was great top tips
@@mrsolderfix3996 definitely interesting. Really good technique !
Hi , thank you 👍
What was that spritz or blast at 12:09 on this video?
Hi , thank you for your comment. That was the sound of the activator for the glue ( Tak Pak ) that I was using . It comes in a small aerosol can and was just the sound of it being sprayed around the capacitor. Hope that helps 👍
Inspiring to greatness
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , very much appreciated . I have a few more boards with similar damage on to this board . I will try and post these repairs in the near future . Thanks again , take care 👍
Brilliant video very skilled. I wanted to send you some photos of a pcb from my drone which got hot & melted the micro plug from the Geomagnetism Sensor--compass it’s made a mess of the board (some broken traces but I can’t see where the plug would go or the 4 wires from it. I couldn’t see an email address. Hope you can help.
First, big thanks for the share. REALY Good work and a nice presentation.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I'm glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it useful. Thanks again for your time 👍
How about if the long green trace is torned off, and it is lost already, what is the secondary to put and fix there for connection again?
Hi, I have an ic that I was trying to replace, and while cleaning the board after removing the original, one of the pads came off. I'm trying to put it back on, and wanted your advice. The component has a soldering plate under it so I wouldn't need to for it down like you did but what is the best way to hold the loose pass in place while I solder the ic, can I use a drop of any glue or only a specific type, or is there a better way to do that? Thanks, and thanks for the great video.
Hi . Thank you for watching , much appreciated. I find the best way to hold the pad in position when your soldering it is to either put light pressure on the top of the pin so as the pin holds down the pad in position and doing this way you need your iron already loaded with roughly the correct amount of solder to form a good joint . You must use flux in this case or else you won't get a good joint . I can't emphasize enough how valuable flux is when soldering . Also another way is to get a fine pair of tweezers and with the pad in position hold them right on the edge of each side of the pad . Again pre flux your pad and preload your iron with the right amount of solder . Then just gently solder the joint and for me this always works . As for gluing the pad I always do this afterwards if necessary, never before as the heat just dislodges it . A good araldite or Tak Pak will do the job . Just run around the whole pad in question and should be ok . Hope that helps , and good luck 👍
This is good stuff. What's the wire. Is it wire wrap wire? You often say you will provide links to the materials used, but I don't see any.
Hi . Thank you for watching . The wire used in this video was 30 gauge kynar wire available from Farnell , RS Components ,Rapid Online and many other electronic retailers . I always mention what I use but I never claim to provide links to products . I don't endorse any products and just advise what I use . Ive mentioned what flux I use SMFL200D many times in the comments section , where I get my solders , my cleaning wipes , cleaning fluids and what irons I use etc many times also in the comments section and sometimes in the description . I will never provide links . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
love your contenet!!
Hi , thank you . Glad you enjoy the video's. I will be posting more in the near future , thanks again , much appreciated 👍
you are an ARTIST sir and my "SMD GURU!" ;-)
btw the music is too loud comparing to the parts when you talk ;-)
Hi , thank you for your support , much appreciated. I knew about the different volume levels so I corrected it for about my last 12 or so postings , so these and future ones should have roughly the same speech and music volume . Thanks again and good luck 👍
Let me say
I'm a new subscriber 😀
Hi , thank you for subscribing , very much appreciated. I hope you enjoyed the video . I've tried to improve as I've gone along with my TH-cam postings , and I will always post more when I can . Good luck with all your soldering projects and thanks again 👍
Incredible
Hi , thank you for your support , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I just wanted to show that big problems can be fixed so hopefully people can save their boards. I will do more repair videos in the future . Thanks again 👍
Nice video, thanks :)
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Hello and thank you for presentation.What type of flux and soldering wire, RMA223 or Amtech 559 nc, or other: 0.5, 0.7 or 0.8 mm for soldering wire, with rosin core or 60/40 Sn-Pb, or 63/37 without rosin core?
Hi . The flux I use is called SMFL200D rework flux . It's a great flux and it's the only one I ever use , about £11 for a 200ml spray can . I squirt some into a small container then use a dipped Ty wrap to apply . The solder I use in my video's is lead free Sn100SB , 0.25mm supplied by a UK company called BLT. I also use 0.38mm + 0.5mm ( BLT ) for larger joints if needed. I do use leaded solder if people ask for it specifically. Hope that helps , thank you.
Nice work, very well presented, what is the gauge of the wire. Cheers,
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment. The gauge wire that I used to replace the IC pin and the traces was 30 gauge Kynar wire , in this case the perfect size as I always try and match the size of wire to pins and traces to ensure perfect working signals . Hope that helps and thank you again. 👍
12:10 thought you sneezed on the board for a second 🤣
Hi . Over the years I've learnt hopefully not to do that as it does tend to cause chaos ( flying 0402's etc ) so not recommended even if I did , which I'm sure I didn't 👍
Thank You , good job . I like it
Hi . Thank you , I'm glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for watching , very much appreciated 👍
Is the glue a special type?
Hi . The glue I used here under the components was an Araldite 2 part glue which is strong but can be removed if needed to be. For sticking my wires down I used Loctite Tak Pak which is the recommended glue for doing this and comes as a 2 part glue and activator set. Hope that helps , thank you for your question🙂
Awesome video in learning a lot 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad the video's are helping you , that's why I like to make them . I will keep posting more soldering videos on TH-cam when I can ( I now get much clearer picture clarity than when this video was filmed , my last 5 are clearer ) as I've now worked out how to do my own editing . Thanks again and good luck with your soldering projects 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 The quality is great mate , I don't suppose you could tell me why my soldering tips oxidise within 2 minutes and then the solder won't stick to the tip . It only seems to do it with pointed tips not flat tips
Hi . This is a common problem , even I struggle with it at times . It's worse when you don't use your iron for long periods , I leave a ball of solder on the end of the tip before I turn it off , so when I return to it I can wipe this ball off and it's nicely tinned , this helps . Also if I'm struggling I very gently scrape the end of the tip with a blunt knife then quickly tin it , wipe it off , repeat this a few times and eventually I always get a nicely tinned tip . Hope you get on ok , but your not alone with your problem especially since lead free solder came out ( didn't really have this problem when using leaded solder ) , you can also get little tip tinning pots from Farnell , RS Components etc but I don't really rate them that highly , thanks for your comment and good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you for your advise mate keep up them amazing videos
Hi , thank you . I've recently worked out how to do my own editing on my videos so I now get better picture clarity ( my last 6 are a lot sharper ) so I will do more repair ones in the near future with better clarity . Thanks for your support , good luck 👍
Great video...would have rather seen you replace the traces with copper foil sheeting than just using a wire jumper..just sayn
Is that regular solder you used to make the new pin?
Nice work
Hi , thank you for watching the video , much appreciated . Glad you enjoyed it 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 u got patients and skills. U make it look too easy....thanks for vid
Hi . Thank you . I think over the years I've realised you have to take your time and think about things more to try and work out a solution . This is what normally works for me nowadays. Thanks for your support , hopefully I can help a few people out 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 indeed and it shows
Merci patron
Hi thank you for your comment , much appreciated 👍
Great video, thank you ! I learned some stuff ^^ Subscribed OFC :)
Where are you from ?
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I'm glad you found the video useful. My later TH-cam postings are of a better quality than this one ( I was learning with cameras , sound etc ) but I'm glad you still found it enjoyable. Thanks again , take care and thank you for subscribing 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 You're welcome :) Now I'm gonna watch more videos from your channel as I want to learn more and more. I already repair consoles and stuff but still curious about soldering techniques ;)
I guess having a better video quality will bring you more subscribers, fingers crossed ^^
Cheers from France
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel . Hopefully I'll keep getting a few more subscribers , and I'll always add new videos when I get some time to make them. Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I'm actually watching some of your videos, I'm at work now... 03 AM here...
Why don't you open a Patreon or youtube subscription ?
I would support you even more !
trying to solder on small antenna connectors on my phone. Melted the first one. When I was removing the connectors from the donor board, I melted one. I don't have any more room for error. any tips on not melting the black blastic on these small anetnna connectors?
Hi , I understand your problem , some connectors are made of such soft plastic it's like they are designed to fall apart as soon as you place any kind of direct heat on them . All I can suggest ( and I have used this method successfully ) is if your doner board is definitely scrap with no chance of it ever being saved , what I have done is with a scalpel blade I've cut underneath the whole connector taking the top layer of board off , pads and all , this enables you to lift the connector plus obviously some PCB with it . Then you can scalpel between the pins , separating them from each other and then pull off the pads , one by one quickly with an iron . What the connector doesn't like is heat run right across it all at the same time . I understand this sounds a bit extreme but I personally have achieved this . If successful when replacing do your joints one at a time very quickly . Hope that's of use . Good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you, good to know that I wasn't doing something absurdly wrong. I think I will try with a smaller soldering tip and being mindful of the heat. And maybe let it cool down first after 1 or 2 failed attempts to solder/desolder.
what kind of epoxy did you use for under the pad? would you please!
Hi . Thank you for your question . In this video I didn't actually need glue under the new pads because the bonded down components will perfectly keep them in place . I would normally put some Tak Pak glue ( made by Loctite ) around the edges of new pads to keep them in place . The glue I used to bond components down was an Araldite twin pack . I find if you glue pads down before soldering it just re melts the glue and makes a mess when you actually do the soldering. Hope that helps . Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 that tak pak glue so expensive for a tiny bottle
Hi . I've seen it on eBay for £ 8.99 and you can buy the activator separately for about £12 for a large can , so it can be found at a reasonable price . Hope that helps , thank you for your question 👍
Which Flux Type use for soldering de-soldering i m beginner i use amtech rm223
Hi . I use a flux called SMFL200D . I'm putting a video on in a few days explaining it and it's uses . Also places you can buy it from .
Don't cut the lead when replacing broken IC legs like this, until _after_ you've soldered both joints. If you cut after doing only the 1st, that tiny short piece of wire has to absorb all that heat from your iron, instantly melting the solder at both joints when touching it. If you leave the cutting til last, there will be much more wire, thermal mass, to absorb the heat, and you'll have a bit of time to get a good flowing no.2 joint, without the 1st joint melting so fast. It will also be easier to maneuver the wire to line it up for joint no.2, with a long wire end to steer it by.
Hi . Thank you for your comment . I personally like to do it like this as you get a much neater end result and as long as you do the second joint quickly it's pretty easy as the first joint on the base of the pin has a lot more solder on it so will take a lot longer to melt than the second joint . I always say though everyone will pick the method that's suits them , I just wanted to show mine to give other options to everyone . Thanks again 👍
... Isn't the cap C38 put in the wrong way around ? Isn't the negative side marked with silver ? EDIT: just learned it ... For SMD caps it is opposite to the electrolytic ones 🙂
Inside female connector of wiper motor. Vertical pin damaged. How to fix?
Hello and thanks for your shared knowledge. Question my friend, would I be able to use conductive copper tape to reconstruct the pads?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Yes you can , no problem , the tape should solder ok . Do not use aluminium tape though as this doesn't solder at all well . Good luck with your project , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 appreciate it sir, I have a big project coming this weekend. To be on the safe side, I got the pre-cut pads as well, the same ones you are using on the video. Thanks for showing us the clever way!
Hi , good luck with your project , take care 👍
What is the correct temperature of the soldering iron to do this job in celcius ?
Hi . Thank you for your question . My soldering iron was set to 350 degrees centigrade when I did this repair work .
This is pretty much the temperature I do most work at and I find it's normally ok.
Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Cool
Hi . Thank you for your comment . Ive posted a few repair videos , hopefully they can help a few people out with their PCB issues. Many thanks for viewing the videos , very kind of you 👍
What kind of glue is that you used @ 11:40 ?
Hi , thank you for your comment. The glue used is a glue that is recommended for PCB use called Tak Pak . It's perfect for mod wires , bonding components down etc and can be broken free and removed if required , but will also stay true if left alone. Use the opposite way to what your told , make sure you spray activator first over desired area , blow lightly until it's disappeared , then put a small bead of the glue over a wire for instance until you have the perfect shape . Doing it this way stops the glue being blown everywhere when using activating spray and makes it stronger . It goes white and brittle if activator is used second. Ebay , Amazon , Farnell , RS Components etc should sell it . Quite expensive but I've brought both glue and activator on eBay separately and paid a lot less . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Great work.
I'm a little bit sad that you didn't showed the actual wiring of the PCB traces. ;)
("Only" the result is shown.)
Hi . If you go to my other postings I did an older video where I show modification wires being fitted . It's basically done the same way as that older video. All my trace wires I do a standard way no matter what the length is and I also show how I glue the wires down in the modifications video as well . I will do another one like this in the near future and I will make sure to show the way I do the wires . Hope that helps , thank you for watching 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for your reply. It seems I don't have watched enough of your videos yet. But im working on this. ;)
Just amazing ❤
Hi , thank you. Hopefully the video can show people that disasters can be fixed. Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks
Hi . No problem , glad you enjoyed the video. Thank you for your support 👍
Hey @Mr Solderfix is there any way I can send you an image of the damage I've had on my pcb an if wheather it can be fixed.. I'm really in need of help an want some advice
Hi . I've sent you my email address👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 yes sir I have sent you a mail as well with pictures attached
Neat work !
What gauge/type or name of the wire being used for the traces?
Hi , thank you for your comment. The green sleeved wire in this video is called Kynar and it's a 30 gauge wire . You can also buy Kynar strippers especially for this wire . Available from Farnell, RS Components, Rapid online or if in America Mouser or Digikey . This wires available also in many colours . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
I would have put abit of glue to the pad as incase the component need to be replaced :)
Hi, what kind of microscope are you using?
I have some board need to fix can u help me out?
Stripping that pad with a scalpel and rolling it up, wasn't a technician's job, that was art.
Btw, I found on EEVBLOG a recipe for making homemade flux. Since in Uruguay we lack access to specialized items, I tried to mix it.
It was a great success!
30% en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin
3% of Glycerin
and the rest of Isoprophil Alcohol at 99% to complete 1L.
Mixed it on a 1L bottle and shaked it once a day for three days. Filtered and put in a syringe. Works a treat!
As a tangential bonus, you can make different mixes and have less viscus mix side by side with a paste.
Hi , thank you for your great comment , very informative . The more information we can all share the better 👍
What kind of wire did you use?
Hi , thank you for your comment. In this video I used 30 gauge Kynar wire which is a recommended wire for pcb modification work. I always try and match the damaged trace size with the wire I'm fitting as this is important for signals etc. Kynars a great wire and comes in all colours . Thanks again for watching 👍
Hi. What's the type of microscope? Thanks.
Hi . I use a long reach stereo microscope from a company called GT Vision. All my filming though is done on a mobile phone with a macro lens attached to the camera lens . This gives different angles than a microscope camera and in my opinion better angles for seeing what's going on with the board . Hope that helps 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Okay. Thank you.
Hi . No problem . Good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 :)
When I've seen SMT pins get ripped off, they usually rip flush to the package plastic leaving no little tab to solder onto. This seems like an unusual case.
Hi . In this case there was a little piece of leg to solder to , but it can be done if there is hardly any . You can chip away a tiny piece of the IC body surrounding the pin carefully with a scalpel and expose a small amount more of the pin giving you enough to join to. I made a complete youtube video on this showing an IC with 6 broken off legs and 2 ways to fix them Thanks for watching 👍
Could you have put some heat resisting glue under the pad, instead of under the component.
And what is that liquid you keep applying,?
Hi . The liquid is FLUX to make the solder flow easier . Well worth getting some as its great stuff . Hope that helps , thank you.
Hey man I need your help
Where to find the replacement pin?
Hi . All you need to make an IC pin is some tin copper wire the same size as the pin . Then you can shape it like I have in the video. Hope that helps , thank you .
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you! Gonna try that. Any way I could use just a soldering wire as an alternative?
Hi . You can also use the leg of a through hole component as a replacement pin but it needs to match the size of the missing pin . Good luck👍
greater volume would be helpful - hard to hear in any but a very quiet environmnet
Good work, however avoid blasting music of vol 10 while you are almost whispering. Extremely unpleasant imo
Hi . I've sorted this problem now on my last 3 or 4 videos . I'm not an editor so struggled but now got different camera etc so no problem anymore. Not much I can do about my early videos , I was only learning then. 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Awesome. Looking forward for your new videos. 👍
Hi . Thanks . You should notice the sounds of voice and music are pretty equal on my new postings . Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Great, you got a new subscriber ❤️👍
Hi . Thank you . I post videos when I can , sometimes I'm busy but if I get time I always try and add new content . Thanks for your support 👍
Hi, I don’t think I can DM on TH-cam. I’m trying to repair my ecu because someone removed the pin connector and some traces need to be repaired. Do you know a professional that can fix and test traces or would you be willing to to do a commission? You might get a TH-cam video out of it too. 🤷♀️
I asked around but all the people who work on car computers are scrubs and can’t do delicate work like this.😂 I’ve been asking around but like I said all the car guys who pretend to be hella good end up being scrubs.
Those AD devices cost a crapload of cash now.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . Your right and also lots of older IC's are not available anymore so repairing your old IC's can be very useful at times . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
The best parts of the repair wasn't shown! :/
Do you have an email I need help fixing something lol
Fantastic videos. You're very talented with micro work. Please PM me as I would like to talk to you about a possible small repair job if you're interested.
Hi . Thank you for your comment . I'm not taking on any outside repairs at this moment as I just want to concentrate on a few videos , but I may in the near future so worth checking in now and again , sorry for that . Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 No worries... but you should! Great job ;)
Hi . Thank you for your nice words , much appreciated 👍
What brand if rosen do you use??