How To Repair Damaged PCB Pads / Traces || Copper Soldering
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2023
- How to repair damaged PCB pads / traces using copper foil tape is shown in my latest soldering tutorial.
Learn how this great copper foil tape can transform severely damaged situations like the one in this video into neat repaired solutions.
This versatile solution is also great for such things as repairing contaminated areas on your PCB's.
With a clear step by step guide taking you through every stage of the copper foil repair including tips and advice throughout.
Different methods can be carried out on the exposed trace to protect it ( Solder Mask , Kapton Tape , glue bead ) take your pick , this is definitely recommended or if no shorting potential you may leave it as it is ( as I have done in this video )
Copper foil tape is available from Farnell , RS Components , Mouser , DIGIKEY and many other companies online
If you enjoy this video and find it of use please like and subscribe and hit the notification bell so as to not miss out on any future Mr SolderFix releases.
Thank you for your time and good luck.
Mr Solderfix
#soldering #pcbpadrepair #solderingtutorial - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Thank you for creating and sharing. Honestly, your channel is just a godsend for a chap like myself. Very much appreciated. 🙂
You’re a chap only if you wear them. 😮
Hi , thank you for watching the videos and supporting my channel , very much appreciated . I'm glad the videos are of use for you , that's great to hear . That's all I wanted to do , help a few people out with their soldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 what camera are you using? have you tried fixing VESC (speed controllers) yet? I think I need to do some wide trace repair and mosfet replacement
Hey, just wanted to drop a quick but MASSIVE thanks for all your videos, but in particularly ones like this on fixing missing pads/traces. Following your videos I was able to successfully repair a faulty Grandstand Astro Wars game from 1981 that I bought as spares on eBay. One of the faults was the common D882 power transistor failure and by the looks of it I wasn't the first to attempt a repair of it! After removing the D882, I lost 2/3 of the pads! I jumped one with insulated wire to a nearby pad on the same trace and used some old earth wire copper strand to connect the other pin to the trace after surfacing some copper. All learnt from your videos! Keep 'em coming!
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated . I'm really glad the videos have been of use for you , that's great to hear . It's always nice when you can fix old products so good on you . I will always post more when I can as long as they seem useful still . Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future , thanks again , take care 👍
Thank you so much for sharing a key technique of repairing the damage trace, love it so much.
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , very much appreciated . Hopefully the videos are proving useful for people , if so then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Does anyone know of a glue that actually sets and is resistant to heat from the soldering iron?
I've done countless repairs with copper tape, but every glue simply turns to liquid the moment you try to solder.
Only way I've found is to do the repair, solder THEN solder mask on top...but doesn't as neat.
This is so much nicer as a finish than the jump wires I've resorted to on the couple of instances I've had to deal with lifted pads (diy repairs on little projects). And the end result you show, is definitely worth the effort.
I don't often have to repair things, but I have a few repair projects sitting in my to-do draw... Along with a whole bunch of on copper strands taken from a power cable, ready to shape around component pins that need to be removed.
So yes, I'd previously learnt a great tip, and this is another to add to my pile. I've been using a soldier iron since I was about 7, and I'm still one of the greenest novices you'll see (some 36 years on). In fact, I don't doubt that the grandfather who told me I'd used enough solder to weld up the Titanic, would probably still say I could weld up a frigate with some of my solder joints. 😂
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel it's very much appreciated . If my videos can help a few people out with their desoldering / soldering projects then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
What PCB glue and activator are you using? Is it high current stable?
Thanks so much for this. Can I ask what type of glue do you use for both the pads and the fuse holder? Thanks !!
Love your content, its actually real information not trash.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoy the videos, hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues , if they can then I'm happy . I will always post more videos when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Beautiful repair. I am confident that it will last for years without any further attention.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Yes this repair should be fine for the long term , I meant to say you could solder mask or Kapton tape the exposed piece of track but I forgot to . I did put a photo up at the end showing this though . Thanks again , take care 👍
Yes mate more gold, thanks again for sharing your knowledge, it's a great resource for everyone 😊
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . If my videos can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy. Thanks again , take care 👍
Another great soldering tutorial - thanks! :)
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Wow I am just so impressed by attention to detail and how you prioritize cleanup. I am trying to repair pads I ripped off battery terminals for an iPhone 2G. I am a novice but your video gave me some confidence. Cheers
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I always believe in doing soldering or repairs to the best of your ability . If you do even the easy jobs perfectly ( be fussy ) this will enable you to progress to harder and harder jobs . If you don't care about your work you will never improve . This attitude has helped me enormously over the years and I have learnt to deal with smaller and smaller parts , repairs etc with relative ease . You will get there . Plenty of practice and hopefully some of the info from my channels videos can help you along the way . Good luck and thanks again 👍
I love your videos and the detailed explanation, I've learned a lot watching your easy-to-follow videos Thanks for posting.
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoy the videos and they have been useful for you , that's great to hear . All I want to do is help a few people , if I can then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
That quality of work is awesome
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people . The option to protect the exposed trace afterwards is solder mask or Kapton tape , viewers can decide on their own projects . Thanks again , take care 👍
You are now my new hero.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully this one and my other videos can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
Always belt and braces…a real professional repair, how it should be done. Thank you
Hi , thank you for your comment and for supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍
I just found your channel today and I must say, I am quite liking the really crisp, high quality video and audio -- most tech channels, for some reason, tend to have horrible audio. I've learned some good tips from your videos today!
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . I've tried to improve the quality of the videos as I have gone along , hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks for sharing the information, perfect clear camera and explanation as usual.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and for your continued support of my channel , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos, that's great to hear , hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thank you, another very detailed and descriptive video. Thank you for taking the time and effort to make these high quality videos.
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , very much appreciated . I will keep making the videos as long as people seem to be finding them of use . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996where can one buy that copper tape? Do they sell different thickness?
Thank you. Great video
Hi , thank you for your comment . Many places sell this tape . Electrical stockists like Farnell , RS Components , Rapid Online plus many others . If you just Google copper foil tape plenty of options should come up . It shouldn't be difficult to source some . Most of them are adhesive lined which I'd very useful to have at times . It's also fairly cheap for a reel of it . Hope you get on ok, thanks again 👍
Thank you for your teaching, greetings from Taiwan fans!😊
Hi , thank you very much for supporting my channel . I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out , if they can then I'm happy . Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future , take care 👍
Excellent job, looking forward to next time, thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , very much appreciated. I will always post more when I can ( my spare time is limited some weeks ) so I sometimes struggle filming more videos . Thanks again , take care 👍
What do you use for your video recording and magnification? Also what iron, tips and braid?
Nice job! Pays to have patience and steady hands which I find challenging.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . Patience is in us all , we just have to find it , but I do believe we can all get there in the end . Thanks again , take care 👍
A great tip. Thanks a lot for share it
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
This was a good video! Thanks a lot man 👍🏻
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Sure, absolutely no problem. Keep making videos I love this kinda stuff lol✌🏼
Hi , I will always make new videos when I get some spare time . Hopefully people will continue to watch them . Thanks again , take care 👍
Nice job! Informative!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Another great way to Improvise. Well done sir!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Interesting way to fix it. And as other said, should work for an eternity. Like it!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated. The copper tape does work well and you can shape it to whatever you need which definitely helps . The only thing I would possibly add which I did mention in one of the end photos is Solder Mask or Kapton tape to the exposed trace . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
Hi, can you link me what flux you use? I watched a few videos and noticed yours works extremely well. I am used to the flux paste which seems like a pain to use
Best of best.❤.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I appreciate when anyone sends a nice comment like yours ( I do get some nasty ones ) , so thank you 👍
That's great! Thank You very much!!! Peace and good to You! 👏👏👏👏👏💪💪💪💪!!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated . Thanks again, take care 👍
Great video and repair sir I’ve been soldering since I was young and since subscribing to your channel a month ago I’ve learned so many new ways of doing things and to be honest a damn sight easier ways to repair things than what I was taught lol thanks for your videos they are so educational all the best god bless
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoy the videos and find them useful , that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi. I just wondered if you knew about the narrow copper tape that is used by people (like me) who make stained glass windows? It don't suppose it's a lot different, either in use or price, but it comes in reels of various widths around 5 to 7mm
hi Mr .thanks a lot for your excellent videos and skills you learn everyone.i am very enthusiastic about each video you make. thank you. i have a question about your camera. what is the model of your camera?
Hello, what camera are you using? I like its glare free angled work
Excellent work.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
As a trained and certified solder technician for decades, I personally I didn't understand why you didn't just leave the original pad attached, de-solder the broken fuse holder off, then glue the still attached original pad back down. However you did cut it off and then I don't understand why didn't you make the new pad run longer, scrap the attaching run, then over lap and solder the new longer pad to it, then glue it down. The repair looks good it's neat and tidy, but it could have been a more solid repair with the run overlap instead of a a solder bridge that can crack and open the circuit. Still this solder job is far better than the other hack jobs I see on TH-cam with speaker wire and all kinds of stuff. At least you cut out a new pad and glued it down. Thanks for sharing though I still enjoyed the video. I'll check out more of your videos. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
At beginning he comments that it starts showing some cracking compromising its performance, that's why went with its replacement.
@NelsonAntunes-kf5un thank you for pointing this out to people , very much appreciated 👍
I’m guessing for explanation purposes, I try to save the pads that lift up, but sometimes they get lost or are very damaged
@@yumkaax616In that case it's best to place a new pad with an overlapping run onto the run that connects to it and solder them together. If it's a pad with a hole in it and it's just lifted, place an eyelet in the hole and crimp it down. If the pad with a hole is to damaged or missing, place a new eyepad in it's place with a long run. then place an eyelet in the hole and crimp it down. Now overlap new only run over the the run that it connects too and solder it. The pad will never come up again. I was a solder technician for over 35 years and have done this to many times to count. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya I never thought about the eyelet, will try it, thank you!
Nice tutorial. What do you have for a microscope? The pictures are crisp and bright.
Thank you for that video.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
I have both lead free soldier (thanks for the tip on 173 deg) but also lead 60/40 solder. What in your experience is the best temp for normal jobs? I think one has to up the temp on potentiometer bodies, etc. because of the larger surface are and also less time heating and maybe breaking the pot?
Any way to fix that circular part/connector/thing? Sorry I don’t how it’s called, but I think I’ve removed it or burned it by accident. Thanks. Amazing skills you got there, thanks for the videos
Hi I only recently found your channel. Love what you do its so clean and neat great work. I would really like to see how you remove and replace the thumb sticks on a PlayStation5 controller. 🎮😀
Thank you very much for the video. ❤❤
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . All I want to is help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues, if I can then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi what camera you using for your videos ?
Also what glue you using ?
Great video! Curious - what is your camera set up?
Could you share what camera you're using ?
Neat work as usual 👌 for myself I'd also consider using a bit of soldermask on the exposed track, I'm sad like that 😂
I have watched in awe as you repair these minute circuits/pads etc. Fascinating. I have a small quadcopter board that has the pads for a small inductor 1R5 missing. I would really appreciate your input/knowledge as to which process to use on it. Is that a possibility as all? BR Trevor
perfect i am on the learning course.
Hi thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . Hopefully you find the videos useful , if so then that's great . We can all learn from each other , and in the end everyone will improve . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hello, please, can you tell me what glue to take and where you found it? because i found only oven high temperature glue for glass or conductive glue. many thanks.
Very nice.
Nice work. After tinning the track, do you feel the need for UV curing soldermask is negated? Thanks.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I meant to mention in the video about putting solder mask on the exposed trace , but obviously forgot . It's hard to remember everything . What I did do though is in one of the photos at the end I showed the trace and said you could place Solder mask or Kapton tape over the trace . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks for the response. Yea, I don't usually hang around for outros.
Ciao potrei sapere la colla quale hai usato e le sue caratteristiche , ovvero che temperatura riesce a sopportare una volta che si e' indurita poi ha dei limiti su quale tensione massima puo' sopportare? Grazie
very nice. The zoom is so good, you can see the glue crystallise after applying the actuator. In this case, would it have been possible to use the actual trace by desoldering (hot air or soldering iron) to fuse holder from the loose pad? And then use the original trace.
Hi , thank you for your comment . The original trace was warped and was probably weakened , but I did say right at the end of the video some people would say why don't I just bridge across from the good pad to the end where I cut the trace , and I probably could of. But you would of had a tiny , weak joint on the trace end . Also I wouldn't have shown people what you can achieve if you just bodge it across . Hope that explains ok . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you, I hear you. I really enjoy the nice fix and learned something new.
Hi , I just want to show people what can be achieved . I always found if you try and do everything the best you can instead of taking short cuts you will progress to be able to do harder and smaller devices and fixes as you go along . Hopefully I can convince a few people and they can improve . Thanks again for your comments , take care 👍
How do you spell the glue that you are using ( Pak Tac ) and where do you get it from? Lovely repair.
Superb😊😊
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated . Hopefully the video can help a few people out 👍
what do you think of the precut copper foils? (i think ive seen then more for chip pad+trace).
Hi , thank you for your comment . I have seen other channels using these but to be honest I've never used them . I've always just lifted a trace or pad of the shape and size I need from a scrap board or used copper foil to make any size you may ever need . I do notice people fitting these premade pads and traces to boards and using the wrong size . It's pretty important to try and match the size the best you can for signals etc that may travel through this . Some people seem to fit traces that are a quarter of the original width ( not a good idea ) , thanks again , take care 👍
I just had to replace this fuse holder today.
How do you deal with tight spacing? The solder iron barely fit between the fuse end and a plastic board mounted connector.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I fully understand your question about tight positions of components. The iron I use a Weller TCP S has tips that allows me to manipulate the shape of them slightly, bending etc , also filing them down to achieve an incredibly small tip . Even though many people tell me you can't do this to your tips I do and it works great . I have a Metcal iron also for my professional day job which comes with micro long tips which can get into incredibly tight gaps . I do believe choosing the right tip does help in nearly all cases . Sometimes I will remove the component next to where I need to solder and then refit it after soldering on the new part . If the position of the pads allows this I will sometimes choose this method . There's always a way . Thanks again , take care 👍
super video.what do you use to clean the flux and were may i get it thanks
Hi , thank you for your comment. The cleaning fluid I use is called Ultrasolve and I purchase this from Farnell . The cleaning wipes are called Gtek dry wipes from a company in England called Grove Sales . I've done a complete video on TH-cam showing how I clean my boards . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
I wonder if Fuji Seal-Glo might be a convenient and good adhesive for the purpose. It's the red colour heat-cure 1-component epoxy that you find under backside SMD components, which normally permanently cures during soldering.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I haven't personally used this particular epoxy so I can't comment on it . Maybe others who have can comment . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi, I have learned so much watching some of your videos, thank you. Can I ask a probably stupid question, at 3:27 you use a "cloth" and "Ultra Solv" , can I ask what cloth you are using and why Ultra Solv instead of Isopropanol ? I am having issues with my PCBs being very tacky after I so called clean them. Sorry if its been mentioned before.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . The cloths I use are only available in the UK I believe . A company called Grove Sales ( England ) supplies them . They are roughly £5 for a pack of 100 and together with Ultrasolve are amazing . I've used pretty much every cleaning fluid and tried loads of cleaning cloth types over the years and the combination I use now is amazing . Ultrasolve is on a different level to Isopropanol which I have used and is pretty basic , cheap and not great . Once you use Ultrasolve you will be blown away by the difference . I get mine from Farnell but I believe RS Components, Mouser and DIGIKEY also sell it , but I maybe mistaken . If you Google it you will find a supplier . It's not that cheap but does last a long time . I buy the 1 litre bottles and pour a small amount into something like a milk bottle lid and then just dip my cloth in it . The secret to amazingly clean boards Is these 2 items plus a hairdryer . For a great cleaning method I've posted a video on my channel all about cleaning including the hairdryer . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
I’ve tried gluing pads with araldite but the bond does not hold when heated. Plastic padding epoxy weld works great since it’s rated 100 deg C continuous and 315deg C for short periods.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . That's great you have mentioned another glue that I hadn't heard of , hopefully your suggestion can help myself and others in the future . Thanks again , take care 👍
Is that the Super Steel epoxy weld?
From where one can get heat resistant pcb glue to affix copper tape firmly to pcb?
One question. Have you done BGA replacements? If so I would love to see your take on it. I know I have watched all of your videos at least twice but cant remember If I ever seen anything dealing with BGA.
Hi , thank you for your comment . In my video . Removing Electronic components ( part 2 ) , I show how to easily remove the BGA and clean up the pads on the board after removal . No matter the size of BGA this method works for me every time . The board is perfectly prepared ready to accept a new BGA . I don't show the replacement of the BGA because it's impossible to prove it is done successfully without cameras and lighting underneath ( Ersascope ) , which I personally do not own but have used elsewhere many times .Thanks again , hope that explains why I won't show the refitting .
Thanks for making this video!! Recently I was trying to repair a gameboy color and when I was trying to reinstall one of the battery terminals (a through-hole component), I accidentally pushed the copper up. Will this work for the copper around a through-hole area? Sorry if the description of what happened isn’t great, I'm not sure of the right terms to use since I'm still a beginner. I wish I could show a picture since they're worth a thousand words lol
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Yes this method would definitely work for the situation that you have . I have also posted another video on my channel showing 4 different methods for your type of problem . This video may be useful for you . Thanks again and good luck 👍
👌👌👍👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
I always need to change the tiny on/off switches to dash cams and other small electrons. Please do a video instruction on this. Thanks.
would you ever cover the repaired exposed trace with cap tape or glue or is it not so important?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I honestly thought I mentioned it in the video about what you could do with this exposed trace . But I believe I forgot to mention it. But I know in one of the photos at the end I say about covering with Kapton tape , glue bead or Solder mask . It's not important unless there's a chance of something else nearby ( cable , , board etc ) shorting out on it . Sorry I left it until the photos, thank you for pointing this out 👍
a cheap but good solution ive liked is using nail polish
Can you share link to tac pack please? Thank you
Hi , places like Farnell , RS Components , Mouser sell Tak Pak in a twin pack ( glue and Activator ) but a cheaper way to get it is to buy these 2 items seperately . I normally get the glue from eBay and the Activator from a company called Zoro . Tak Pak is expensive but if you do a lot of PCB modification wires it's the best there is . Always spray very lightly first , glue second for wires . I've showed the correct way and how to apply it in some of my trace repair videos . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
This was very, very nicly done. What exactly is the glue name, please?
Tak Pak, it’s not that cheap though
Buy it seperately on Ebay or Zoro , half the price , much cheaper 👍👍
@@mrsolderfix3996
It would be really useful if when you mention propriorty stuff like Tak Pak you could put some kind of link, or even just the name in the description, especially when they use "cool" spelling. Tack Pack Tack-Pack Tacpac Tacpack etc. I tried looking for it including the word glue and found hunting supplies, stuff for horses and educational material . Maybe a cut and paste standard blurb "I use X solder and Y flux etc. Even if people don't buy the exact stuff it gives them the the idea of what kind of thing t be looking for.
I only came across your channel recently and saw you using a long bit of solid to bridge all the connections on a damaged multiway connector to spread the heat to remove it. Brilliant. Been using an iron in a hobbiest way for 40+ years and it had never occurred to me. Subscribed there and then.
Hi , thank you for your comment and subscribing , very much appreciated . At the end of the video I actually put a clear photograph of the Tak Pak and applicator up showing the spelling and the code of both items , I just presumed this was enough . It's hard sometimes to remember everything but I will always try and show a photo at the very least .
I never do links , just my personal choice . eBay or Zoro are the best places to buy tak Pak , it's a lot cheaper , instead of buying as a twin pack . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Sorry, so you did. I just stopped watching at the payoff. Also, thanks for the Zoro tip. I'd never heard of them, but looks really useful.
Hello!
Is it not necessary to add a uv green mask on it?
Hi , I did mean to mention this in the video . I put a photo up at the end saying you can place solder mask or Kapton tape on it . It isn't vital it's covered unless there's a risk of something shorting on it. Thanks again , hopefully that's explains it 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you for answering Mr solderfix, yes, you mentioned, I've been practicing a lot with your videos, so I declare you my mentor Sr. Thanks
Keep doing more videos
Best regards
From Venezuela 🇻🇪
Joe
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel and good luck with all your soldering projects in the future. Best wishes from England 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 same to you from Venezuela 🇻🇪 south America
Good video, but I would slightly overlap the copper foil over the PCB trace, rather than the butt joint that you did.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I guess both methods are fine . I like to keep the copper flat to the board that's the main reason I do it this way , but your way is fine as well . Thanks again , take care 👍
Can you please post a link to "tack pack glue". Google does not return any good results.
Hi, thank you for your comment . It is spelt Tak Pak , it comes in a twin pack . Cheaper way to buy it is seperately , glue from eBay and activator from Zoro . Hope that helps .
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you.
Ooh, that Tak Pak glue _is_ expensive. I came back after searching for it to mention that it is expensive and saw that someone else had commented the same thing. I will have to think about that one.
Do you rate the lead-free solder you use, though. I've not known many who are keen but that did look shiny and solid.
Hi , I think I mentioned in one of the other comments that a cheaper way to buy it is seperately from eBay or Zoro . It lasts a long time so if you do lots of PCB modifications etc it's worth getting . It's the best glue there Is for gluing mod wires down to the PCB.
I get my lead free solder from a company in England called BLT circuits . There lead free ( SN100SB ) is the best there is . It actually says in the description for it that it produces shiny joints and it flows so nice . Definitely recommend this . Cheap as well compared to solders from the well known stockists . Hope that helps
@@budgetmerch Interesting, I came for the same... as I couldn't find the Tack Pad... Googleling I found the Loctite 382 as "Takpak" one, expensive one. Seem a name given by RS manufacturer (382+Activator) I notice that is a cyanocrilate one, and Loctite classifies as "general purpose" one... looking at the datasheet, I see that the mechanical resistance is reduced up to 25% at 120`C ( I understand this temperature as working one, not the sudden one suffered after soldering the fuse)... going to Farnell, I went to the cyanocrilate section, and shorted by the cheapest... then I picked the cheapest one with Datasheet: Loctite 401 (5$) and saw the the mechanical properties are better at 120C... high temperature are slightly better
My take is that any cyanocrilate will work as good as the Tak Pak one
Thank you for the excellent video, this is a fantastic technique. I am going to attempt to use a CO2 laser cutter to cut a template into copper tape, to replicate some very fine and complex corroded traces in an LED wristwatch. I think I can use the loctite 382 to glue the copper tape topside-down, and then clean the adhesive off as a final step before tinning and applying solder mask.
Whoa, that's some challenge. Good luck in your endeavour.
Nice job, you could have just fixed the existing pad back down too, it wasn't broken.
Hi , the existing pad was warped and cracked almost from the trace at the join . If I would have tried to flatten it it wouldn't have sat dead right and would have had 2 joins between the pad and T1. Lot easier and stronger doing it with the tape . If I would have just bodged the pad down people wouldn't have seen a method they may not have seen before . I think it's important to get more repair options out there , then you can choose the one you like . Thanks again , take care 👍
👍☺
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Well you need to apply green mask on it cause in future it will develop corrosion on that soldering joint ... Otherwise all video is awesome
Hi , thank you for your comment . That's the only thing I could of added . I did say in one of the end photos about adding solder mask or Kapton Tape to the exposed trace . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
When you mention product names like the glue you are using - please mention them in the written description under the video - the English language does not at all lend itself to convey spellings of words just from listening. Would it be spelled "tech-pack" or "tack-peck" or "tacpac"? What do I google for? You could also describe what type of glue it is: Is it a cyanoacrylate glue? The fact that you use an activator with it strongly points to it.
Hi , I understand language doesn't always lend itself to the name of the product that's why at the end of the video I put a clear photograph up of this mentioned product . Thanks for your comment.
@@mrsolderfix3996 Ah, sorry for the nitpicking then. Very naughty of me to not watch it to the very end.
Hi , no problem , I always try and make it clear but I can't always remember everything when I'm filming . I will try harder . Thanks again for your comments , take care 👍
Better than factory 😂
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated . I guess you watch that other TH-cam channel who keeps advertising his shop every 2 minutes , better than factory 😀😀
👍
Hi , thank you for your thumbs up 👍
Mitico
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Very nice but way not use a wire bridge its sone in like 4m
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've shown wire fixes in other videos so I don't see the point of showing that method again . This video was mainly to show a different method that may help a few people out .
@@mrsolderfix3996 ooh oke thx i was thinking so much work hahahah but good job
Hi , I just like to show different things if I can then people can choose whatever method they like . Thank you again for your comments , much appreciated 👍
That music is awful.
There is nothing wrong with your repair except it is way over designed and took too much time. You should have just used the pad that was lifted up.. Unsolder the pad from the broken fuse and glue the pad back down. There was no need to make a new pad. All that glue you used will just make that part harder to replace again. That one drop under the fuse holder was all you needed.
Hi , this video was shown for the purpose of showing what the copper tape can be used for . Some complicated shapes that need to be created can be easily made this way . There will be times when you need to recreate pads , this is a good option . Thanks.