External Door Frame
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video i make an external door frame using hardwood. I run through the sectioning of the sawn timber. We then explain the setting out of the joinery, marking and cutting of the mortices and tenons. Finally the assembly of the frame.
Here at A P Bourne we can pretty much make anything bespoke using timber.
If you require something bespoke then don’t hesitate to contact us at.
Alternatively check out what we do on our website.
Email
info@apbournecarpentry.co.uk
Website Address
www.apbournecarpentry.co.uk
www.apbournebespoke.co.uk
00:00 Introduction
00:22 Rip Down Sawn Timber
00:59 Plane Timber To Size
1:18 Description On Squaring Timber
2:38 Machining As Per Description
3:14 Check Final Squareness And Sizing
3:46 Determine Face And Edge Marks. Mark Out For Rebates
6:35 Machine Out Rebates
7:32 Mark Out Mortice And Tenons
8:28 Description On 50mm Cill Horns
9:33 Setting Out Sight Lines
10:06 Setting Out Cill Mortices
10:41 Setting Out Head Mortices
14:04 Cutting Mortices In Cill And Head
16:03 Setting Out For Tenons On Jambs
17:37 Marking Out Jamb Tenons
18:15 Cutting Lower Jamb Tenons
19:34 Clean Out Cill Mortices
19:58 Dry Fit Jambs And Cill
20:25 Mark And Cut Jamb Upper Tenons
22:10 Dry Fit Jambs And Head
22:32 Machining For Draught Proof Gasket
24:25 Glue Up
25:46 Final Fit Viewing - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
![บุษบา - วงชานเมือง [LiveCoverVertion] Original : เมนทอล](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dm81sKcd9rs/mqdefault.jpg)
True craftsmanship right there. And great editing as well - keep this up!
Thank You
A joy to watch. Thank you.
No problem, glad you enjoyed it. Hope it helps.
Adey
Neat editing
Great video & just what I was looking for. I was hoping you had a video on the gates featured on your channel page. Just subscribed
Hi Mark
Thanks so much for the feedback. I did the gates a few years back and never filmed any of the work. I’m trying to upload more but as you’ll know everyone, including myself is so busy that it’s hard to find the time. Thanks for subscribing.
Adey
thank you 👍👍👍
Welcome 👍
I’d love to hear everyone’s thoughts on this video. Especially what I can do to improve any future videos for you in the future. Less music, more commentary. Shorter, longer...... let me know.
I'd like to see a video of the installation of the door into the jams and into the house opening. from saw to completion. Nice video, love your shop, quality, techniques and presentation
Great video not enough dragons
Great video! What transparent finish do you recommend for meranti? I’d like to keep it as light as possible
There is a link below to the oil I use. It will darken the timber though as all oils do. There is 1 product from Osmo that has a white pigment within it which keeps the wood looking really close to its original colour prior to oiling, but it’s an oil that’s only to be used internally.
www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil
Hi
Why did you use different timbers??? Merinti is a good timber to work...length upto 20 feet is available....had a project of 150 doors and frames completed in Oman..
Good job...
I can't believe this has had only 10 likes so far, what was the wood used and where did you buy it in such large sections. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the positive feedback. It’s always appreciated. The wood I used for the frame itself is Meranti and the cill is Sapele. Both species of timber were supplied by East Kent Timber.
www.eastkenttimber.co.uk/
@@APBourneBespoke THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! I've finally found a UK hardwood door frame video xD and this will help me a great deal when I construct my external door frame.
That’s cool Harry. Glad that it’s going to help you out.
Adey
Hi.
Explained well....why did you use different types of timber.?...merinti is a wonderful timber to work on.....had a project of 150 doors and frames made of merinti on Oman....what was the final finish....
Hi
The door frame was for a customer and this is what they asked for. Additionally as attractive as Meranti is, its to soft to use for a cill section as it would bruise and mark to easily. This is the reason for the cill being Sapele, which is much harder and will hold up better over time.
Great job mate buy shouldn`t the sill have a drip rebate along its length to stop water running under the sill onto the ffl ?
Hi Geoff
Absolutely agree.Initially I’d forgot the capillary groove but I I cut one in after the video was shot. There is a graphic within the video showing this once I’d noticed.
Great video brilliantly explained, how much bigger than the door do you make the frame.
Hi Ian
I’m not sure I fully understand the question. If it’s the structural opening size you are referring to, that is dependent on the section of timber being used in the frame, also the height of the cill. For example the frame section I made was 69mm wide x 94mm deep and the cill is 69mm high x 150 deep. So the width of the frame if I was fitting an 838mm wide door would be 956mm, this is with a 12mm wide rebate. So the height of the frame with a standard 1982mm high door would be 2110mm. Please note this is based on the frame being a 69mm x 94mm section. Most door frames bought off the shelf are a much smaller section and will give you a completely different size. I hope this answers you’re question.
Kind Regards
Adrian
The frame looks really good! When you assembled the frame, did you screw through the cill and head into the Jambs or glue only? and also when you fitted the draft gasket did you glue it in? Thanks
When I assembled the frame I used glue only. The gasket fits purely with friction and no glue is needed. The gasket holds really well on its own. I’ve made quite a few frames and the gasket holds really well without glue. I’ve attached a link to the gasket details for your reference.
ironmongerydirect-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/product-documentation/drawings/371108.pdf
@@APBourneBespoke Thanks for the quick answer, and the link, much apprciated.
Great work. Love your style. What are the actual finished dimensions of the lumber? For each piece ie jambs, cill and head I see below you mention 69X94, what is the rebate depth? what thickness of door would you put in this frame? Thanks Adey appreciate your experience. Keep posting please
Hi Chris
Thanks for getting in touch.
Finished dimensions for the jambs and the head are 69mm x 94mm, they have a 47mm deep rebate to accommodate a 44mm thick external door plus the weather gasket. The rebates are 15mm wide which allows for 12mm to cover the door and a 2-3mm margin around the door. The cill is 69mm x 150mm with a small 6mm weather upstand which stops any wind driven rain being driven in. What’s not in the video but which was fitted later by the installer is an aluminium threshold cill
www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/exitex-low-height-macclex-threshold-914mm-inward-opening-doors-mill-aluminium-227390
I hope this answers all your questions.
If not, just get in touch again and I’ll gladly answer any more you may have.
@@APBourneBespoke thanks so much for the info. Yes, this fully explains it all.
Much appreciated. Keep up the good (wood) work 😉
Hi Adey, great videos! Would someone installing this in a property (replacing existing uPVC door & frame) need to get sign off from the council/Building Regs, etc?
Yes. Any change of external joinery should meet current building regs. Additionally if you’re building is listed or you are in an area of outstanding natural beauty you will need additional permissions. This can get quite complex to explain so I’ve attached a link below to the planning portal which is a great resource for basic building regs/planning questions.
Adey
.www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/14/doors_and_windows/2
Another great video, Is your table saw a sedgwick? I need to upgrade and cant find any videos or reviews about them. Ive got their spindle moulder and mortiser but was wondering how good the table saw was. Could you do a video on it and what the set up is like?
Hi Ashley
The table saw I use is a Sedgwick. I don’t have anything to compare it against, other than my previous Bosch site table saw. The one thing I can say is it has plenty of power, that plus the crosscut sliding table were the main reasons for the upgrade. It’s also much quieter than my previous table saw as it has an induction motor. To date I’ve cut all varying species of timber with it and it copes fine ripping dried oak. I may do a review on it in the future. I’ve attached the spec for the machine below.
www.scosarg.com/sedgwick-ta315-circular-table-saw-bench-1ph-4-0-hp?geoip_country=GB&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0rSABhDlARIsAJtjfCexlOG5iBEWHIum7kcA7rvWcG7S0aHUarvUcnngt5WhK-n5Xd_-BEoaAiODEALw_wcB
@@APBourneBespoke Thanks for the reply, How do you find the weight is it easy to wheel about on the wheel kit?
@@MrAshshort I have mine on a wheel kit and it’s easy enough for me to move about.
Where do you buy a piece of hardwood of the size you started with in the UK?
Hi Russell
You can get the timber this size from reputable timber merchants. I purchased mine from a company called East Kent Timber. Link below
www.eastkenttimber.co.uk/
Hi again. Did you make the door fir the frame as well? What wood did you use? Is there a video for that ?
Thanks
Chris
I’m afraid not, as I made this frame for a local builder who was replacing an existing frame with this one and reusing the existing door. I’m planning though on doing a door build video in the future.
@@APBourneBespoke excellent. I look forward to that. I want to build a new door for the house we live in. Stroud, Gloucestershire. Our home A lovely little place very old. The previous owners butchered the front door and I want to make it like was originally
@@APBourneBespoke Hi there. Still enjoying your videos. Would love to see you create an exterior door.
@@chrisgater6986 Hi Chris
There will be one coming at some point this year. I’ve got to make one for my front porch, so I’ll be filming that,
Adey
@@APBourneBespoke that’s great! Looking forward to it. I am starting my frame following your process end of April.
How do you stop a door frame from rotting to future proof it?
Definitely ensure it is well coated in an external grade paint/or stain. If painting, a clear preserver can be used first followed by a coat of primer then at least two top coats of finish paint. If staining, a preserver first followed by at least two coats of your finish stain.
The link below is for a Dulux 3 part system which I’ve used on my own home joinery and still looks great today, 5 years after being applied.
www.dulux.co.uk/en/articles/weathershield-exterior-system
Also this is a link for a top quality stain which all my decorators recommend.
www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/sikkens-cetol-hls-plus?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItsSM3vD99wIVlu7tCh0mjASJEAQYESABEgLMMfD_BwE>in=8711115288369
I hope this answers your question.
Adey
@@APBourneBespoke thank you this is helpful