Thank you Danny for sharing your knowledge I feel I have a good grasp and will be able to build my own have a great day with your family stay safe and be warm and God bless
I do believe that this is the only TH-cam video out there that details the old school method of cutting an exterior door jamb out of solid lumber. Well done, good Sir!
This is the best one by far without telling a bunch of big hairy stories and going into great detail on what kind of screw to use and why, I’m deleting all the other door jamb videos from others.
Thanks for another great video. You never know when something like this will be useful. Danny your a great teacher. You explained everything very well, and where it's understandable.Looking forward to part 2.
at 3:02 you say you have to rip a left and a right hand - let me disagree with you on that. Rip them both the same way: then flip one top to bottom and like magic you have your other side. It only matters that one is L and the other R when you cut the top mortise out for the head piece.
Glad you pointed that out. I threw half my nail away because when I pulled them out of the package the head was sometimes on the wrong end. I took them back to the hardware store and the guy looked at me kind of funny!
@@fordguyfordguy Not meant to poke fun at you. Read all the comments , hoping to find someone who caught the ridiculous remark he makes about left and right. Glad to find someone who picked up on this and I realized that I wasn't crazy after all! It reminded me of the corny joke I heard years ago about the left and right handed nails.
Awesome, so glad I was able to find your video again, going to be doing an exterior door frame, so I'll be using the treated lumber.. again thanks for doing a complete how to on this..
great video how to, will be getting my table saw out,having to redo a door on a mobile home ,don't want to use a regular mobile home door,tired of renters destroying them,so I'm going to use your directions with use of a solid metal door for this next project.. Thanks for the how to this helps out completely.
This is a great video for newbies, unless you plan on installing a storm door too. Once I built my jamb I had to rout out the other side, to fit my storm door. Just a heads up, for others.
Good point since most storm doors are 1'' thick. You'd need to notch 1'' of the door frame on the exterior side of the door frame. I'm thinking just make the door frame out of 2x6 then rip out 2 3/4 out of 1x4 and nail it to the 2x6's for the jam.
Danny, where's the part 2 of the building the door frame? part 1 was great, just wished you would have done the 2nd part. enjoyed part 1 and info is spot on.
Danny, I followed this video to a T. Problem I ran into is the casing fits perfectly to the door, but once I put the weatherstrip in, the door no longer sits into the casing properly. As far as ripping the door width out of the, you are not creating a left hand or right hand until you notch the top section.
Just allow another 1/16 inch on the hinge side to allow for the weather stripping. Then the door wont bind when the weather strip is collapsed when door is closed on it.
Masterful and extremely well thought out. Wisdom and knowledge that comes from being an elder as the Bible defines each of those terms. Danny it would be an honor to one day meet you!!! Thank you for the video!!!
THANKS i'm in the middle of building a new wider basement door so i can move my table saw in and out. you gave me some good ideas...wish we could come to your Gathering but its a little to far for us.
Is there any reason why you favour the verticals over the top piece to do the notching - I mean why the top piece is fixed BETWEEN the verticals rather than spanning the top of them?
If the top piece is attached to the verticals with finish nails, it allows the verticals to be spread apart if need be to get a fine adjustment in the width of the opening. If the top is nailed down through the top piece, it is then not possible to move it at all.
Great video. A couple questions if you don’t mind. How did you route the hinge recesses with the door stop in the way? Also I found my jambs bowed/cupped quite a bit a couple days after cutting them, any tips to avoid this? Thank you.
To avoid cupping, lay the jamb pieces on the table saw, back side down and cut several shallow saw kerfs lengthwise. If you are going to wait any length of time between milling and installation, clamp the pieces together on a flat surface. A jig that raises it above the stop will allow you to use your router to make the hinge mortise.
Thank you Danny for sharing your knowledge I feel I have a good grasp and will be able to build my own have a great day with your family stay safe and be warm and God bless
I do believe that this is the only TH-cam video out there that details the old school method of cutting an exterior door jamb out of solid lumber. Well done, good Sir!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is the best one by far without telling a bunch of big hairy stories and going into great detail on what kind of screw to use and why, I’m deleting all the other door jamb videos from others.
Thanks for another great video. You never know when something like this will be useful. Danny your a great teacher. You explained everything very well, and where it's understandable.Looking forward to part 2.
at 3:02 you say you have to rip a left and a right hand - let me disagree with you on that. Rip them both the same way: then flip one top to bottom and like magic you have your other side. It only matters that one is L and the other R when you cut the top mortise out for the head piece.
Glad you pointed that out. I threw half my nail away because when I pulled them out of the package the head was sometimes on the wrong end. I took them back to the hardware store and the guy looked at me kind of funny!
@@rayrobinson3015 Not sure how to laugh at this. I make my mouth into a laughing shape and breath out, but all that comes out is "Smartalek"
@@fordguyfordguy Not meant to poke fun at you. Read all the comments , hoping to find someone who caught the ridiculous remark he makes about left and right. Glad to find someone who picked up on this and I realized that I wasn't crazy after all! It reminded me of the corny joke I heard years ago about the left and right handed nails.
@@rayrobinson3015 OK, sorry Ray. I will try to be less sensitive. Thanks for the humor.
great job, great explanation...heading to my table saw now!
how2q i hope it helps you get the job done easier. Thanks
Incredible video.
Thanks for all the great information for making a door frame, thanks and have a great and blessed day
Awesome, so glad I was able to find your video again, going to be doing an exterior door frame, so I'll be using the treated lumber.. again thanks for doing a complete how to on this..
This is how i planned to mine. Wonderful description and many thanks for sharing so many tips
Danny you are a very good teacher. I can add this to my building knowl6. You never know when you may need it.
Cathy Stevenson Thanks
Great video, super helpful.
Awesome work . 💥💥
You have it very well explained too ... Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
great video how to, will be getting my table saw out,having to redo a door on a mobile home ,don't want to use a regular mobile home door,tired of renters destroying them,so I'm going to use your directions with use of a solid metal door for this next project.. Thanks for the how to this helps out completely.
did u rip 2x6 to 4 1/2? for 2x4 wall
Boy this was helpful!
Nice job, thanks for the information!
Thank You !
Nicely done Mr. Danny!
This is a great video for newbies, unless you plan on installing a storm door too. Once I built my jamb I had to rout out the other side, to fit my storm door. Just a heads up, for others.
You can add exterior brick mold and attach the storm door to that.
Good point since most storm doors are 1'' thick. You'd need to notch 1'' of the door frame on the exterior side of the door frame. I'm thinking just make the door frame out of 2x6 then rip out 2 3/4 out of 1x4 and nail it to the 2x6's for the jam.
Thanks so much for your video
Danny, where's the part 2 of the building the door frame? part 1 was great, just wished you would have done the 2nd part. enjoyed part 1 and info is spot on.
Thanks. Very helpful.
Omg wish we were neighbors I’d hire u oh well thanks for sharing God bless
Danny, I followed this video to a T.
Problem I ran into is the casing fits perfectly to the door, but once I put the weatherstrip in, the door no longer sits into the casing properly.
As far as ripping the door width out of the, you are not creating a left hand or right hand until you notch the top section.
Just allow another 1/16 inch on the hinge side to allow for the weather stripping. Then the door wont bind when the weather strip is collapsed when door is closed on it.
Masterful and extremely well thought out. Wisdom and knowledge that comes from being an elder as the Bible defines each of those terms. Danny it would be an honor to one day meet you!!!
Thank you for the video!!!
s fetterly The honor is usually mine when i meet the good people on here.Thanks
Looks good!
nice! thumbs up!
Good tutorial. God bless!
great job
Pinetar And Robyns Homestead Thanks
THANKS i'm in the middle of building a new wider basement door so i can move my table saw in and out. you gave me some good ideas...wish we could come to your Gathering but its a little to far for us.
Allen Palmer This same procedure can be used on any width door. Thanks
RH Left hand. Just flip it over 😊
Can I use 2x4s also?
Is there any reason why you favour the verticals over the top piece to do the notching - I mean why the top piece is fixed BETWEEN the verticals rather than spanning the top of them?
If the top piece is attached to the verticals with finish nails, it allows the verticals to be spread apart if need be to get a fine adjustment in the width of the opening. If the top is nailed down through the top piece, it is then not possible to move it at all.
Great video. A couple questions if you don’t mind. How did you route the hinge recesses with the door stop in the way? Also I found my jambs bowed/cupped quite a bit a couple days after cutting them, any tips to avoid this? Thank you.
I chisel the hinges. To keep from warping, I use spruce.
To avoid cupping, lay the jamb pieces on the table saw, back side down and cut several shallow saw kerfs lengthwise. If you are going to wait any length of time between milling and installation, clamp the pieces together on a flat surface. A jig that raises it above the stop will allow you to use your router to make the hinge mortise.
This was all great until I now have to figure out how to route the hinges. Dang
how deep is it on the 2 inch pass.
I can’t find part 2
:)
:)
Danny, you are going to have to clone yourself cause there's a lot of gals out there who want a husband like you. :)