Great vid mate, If you can grab a "multi tool" with a long blade that will assist with those "bastard mongrel" cuts in removing the door jamb. Keep up the great vids mate. Cheers from Australia.
Hi Lee, thank you for your comment it’s really great to see that my videos are helping 👍🏻 To answer your question: yes you can but typically external frames have a groove on the outer edge of the frame to help stop water tracking through. If you can re do the groove but if you can’t, just makes sure you have a good seal around all edges. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Question, we have a new build, door is wooden frame with composite door. We were getting water in. Was inspected and said door was warped so new frame and door were installed and MDF skirting either side replaced (as it had swollen) so with new frame and door have just noticed the new skirting is slightly swollen where it meets the sill. Any ideas? See the frame in your video, where the sides meet the sill, is there sealant between the two parts? Thanks
Generally it’s 5-10mm at the bottom of the door. The frame fixings on the hinge side, I have hidden behind the hinges and lock the side, behind the lock plate and the others got filled. However if the customer requests it I will put a timber pellet to hide the fixings.
Hi I was wondering these solid oak doors so they give problems during season as they expand and how much do you charge to fit these door I have the door thanks
Thank you for your comment. I used a 7mm Masonry drill bit first to make the hole then taped brown wall plug into the hole then finished with a 6mm x 100mm Reisser screws. Hope this helps.
Hi Wooley, thank you for your kind comment. You’re right, the gap was larger in some areas than others.😉 However, I still put some silicon between the expanding foam and the front edge. I didn’t install the trims to finish covering the gap between the brickwork and frame because they needed painting on both sides before installation. 👍🏻👌🏻
Hi Ian, thank you for your comment. To answer your question: The reason for the Packer was to build the frame up to the correct height ,so the frame touched the underside of the top opening of the brickwork. The only other alternatives was to make a custom sized frame and door or form a new brickwork opening which would’ve cost thousands. Hope this helped and if you have anymore questions or videos that you’d like to see please let me know. 👍🏻
That high threshold would be really, really annoying to step over. Not great for the mobility limited either. Shame you couldn't have packed the top instead.
The door sill on the frame has a pug groove/recess which may well have missed the water bar in the sill when fitted so not sure why he chose to pack the sill rather than the head.
This is all depending on where you live, the type of frame, door and ironmongery your installing. But this specific one in this video was in total including a whole days work was between £600-£700. Hope this helps.
I think my SD card ran out and by the time I’d cut the mortice and looked at the camera it was to late. If you’d like, I can do a video on how to cut in mortice locks in a future video?
The concrete step should have been removed and replaced with a course of bricks. The door would sit much lower and not create an even higher step than before. Serious trip hazard.
This is the one thing missed out on my site carpentry course and its the one im most curious. Appreciate your video, mate!
I love watching a master craftsman at work, great job.
Thank you 🙏🏻 👍🏻
Excellent, excellent. You did a great job; a pleasure to watch you work. Looking forward to seeing more of your projects.
Liked and subbed. Good advice. And a great finish on the new door
very useful and informative video - I learnt a lot, thank you for taking the time.
You're a great teacher. Many thanks...
Great vid mate, If you can grab a "multi tool" with a long blade that will assist with those "bastard mongrel" cuts in removing the door jamb. Keep up the great vids mate. Cheers from Australia.
Cheers matey! 👍🏻
Excellent and I’ve saved this.
Excellent Video Thank You, can you cut the frame down to size to fit? I am going to have to get a little larger frame.
Hi Lee, thank you for your comment it’s really great to see that my videos are helping 👍🏻
To answer your question: yes you can but typically external frames have a groove on the outer edge of the frame to help stop water tracking through. If you can re do the groove but if you can’t, just makes sure you have a good seal around all edges. Hope this helps 👍🏻
can I use the same method of cutting and jimmying on a plastic door frame?
Is a 20-23mm gap either side of a frame, too big to foam fill, even if you sink the fixings in a bit ?
Great job
Question, we have a new build, door is wooden frame with composite door. We were getting water in. Was inspected and said door was warped so new frame and door were installed and MDF skirting either side replaced (as it had swollen) so with new frame and door have just noticed the new skirting is slightly swollen where it meets the sill. Any ideas? See the frame in your video, where the sides meet the sill, is there sealant between the two parts? Thanks
How much of a gap should you have at the bottom of the door and how do you hide the frame fixings?
Generally it’s 5-10mm at the bottom of the door. The frame fixings on the hinge side, I have hidden behind the hinges and lock the side, behind the lock plate and the others got filled. However if the customer requests it I will put a timber pellet to hide the fixings.
Good video👍🏻
Hi I was wondering these solid oak doors so they give problems during season as they expand and how much do you charge to fit these door I have the door thanks
Very nice thanks for the video which screw did you use to crew the frame in to the brick
Thank you for your comment. I used a 7mm Masonry drill bit first to make the hole then taped brown wall plug into the hole then finished with a 6mm x 100mm Reisser screws. Hope this helps.
@@claytoncarpentry618 thanks for the reply do you recommend using this 7.5 screw 6mm hole without plugs thanks
What did you put under the threshold?
Going to have to scribe some timber to cover gap down sides of frame, that gap is way to big to silicon but great job.
Hi Wooley, thank you for your kind comment. You’re right, the gap was larger in some areas than others.😉 However, I still put some silicon between the expanding foam and the front edge. I didn’t install the trims to finish covering the gap between the brickwork and frame because they needed painting on both sides before installation. 👍🏻👌🏻
Really good video. Do you have to use a packer and then the frame on top of it if doing it on concrete floor?
Hi Ian, thank you for your comment. To answer your question: The reason for the Packer was to build the frame up to the correct height ,so the frame touched the underside of the top opening of the brickwork. The only other alternatives was to make a custom sized frame and door or form a new brickwork opening which would’ve cost thousands.
Hope this helped and if you have anymore questions or videos that you’d like to see please let me know. 👍🏻
Hi where did u buy the frame and door from please?
I bought the door, frame and hardware from Howdens Joinery.
@@claytoncarpentry618 thanks for your prompt reply. Would u recommend howdens as a good quality product for me to use?
@@jochippyy definitely but if I had the choice, I’d use XL Joinery 100% .They give a 10 year guarantee on all of their doors.
@@claytoncarpentry618 many thanks 😊
That high threshold would be really, really annoying to step over. Not great for the mobility limited either. Shame you couldn't have packed the top instead.
The door sill on the frame has a pug groove/recess which may well have missed the water bar in the sill when fitted so not sure why he chose to pack the sill rather than the head.
how much does a job like this cost uk ?
This is all depending on where you live, the type of frame, door and ironmongery your installing. But this specific one in this video was in total including a whole days work was between £600-£700. Hope this helps.
Run a old plane over that paint and thats good wood for projects or burning. Three knuckles on the door then ?
The chisel😂
Why didn’t you fit a sash lock and handles?
Customer didn’t want one. The deadlock is still a grade 5 lever lock.
I didn't enjoy the fact you didn't show how you exactly cut the whole for the locking mechanism
I think my SD card ran out and by the time I’d cut the mortice and looked at the camera it was to late. If you’d like, I can do a video on how to cut in mortice locks in a future video?
@@claytoncarpentry618 needed it for today though 😅
@@claytoncarpentry618 Please do that, that was the bit i was waiting for
The concrete step should have been removed and replaced with a course of bricks. The door would sit much lower and not create an even higher step than before. Serious trip hazard.
Mo
put your safety glasses on please
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