That was an incredible, in depth tutorial. Truly a masterclass. I love learning how to do things from someone that has complete knowledge of his subject. Thank you!
Thank you for those kind words. I've done this for many years and remember how difficult it was to figure things out at times, so I'm happy to share my experience with others. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Wow that was the best video I've seen on building jambs and hanging a door. I'm building the jambs from upcycled 1x4s. This helps a lot. So many good tips in this video. Thanks for going slow and taking it step by step for us beginners.
wow, I'm so glad you enjoyed that. I've been doing this a long time and am very happy to share the things I've learned with others. thanks for watching.
I can't always include everything as these are actual jobs I'm doing so there's a time element, and if I forget to shoot something I can't start the job over. Do the best I can and I thank you for watching.
Pretty good, couple things though for anyone that plans on doing this: 1. Prime the cut edge of the jambs, this is finger jointed pine and will easily rot, anywhere you cut to bare wood, use a aerosolized primer, it takes a couple more minutes but protects that wood from getting rotten quicker. 2. Round the edge over on the jamb where you cut it. The sharp square edge can easily be split, a round over not only looks and feels better, but it protects the wood. Think of a 2x4, they aren’t doing roundovers because they care about the clients hands, they do it so the boards are more likely to make it to their destination in one piece. 3. Flash the door. Use a rigid metal flashing on the top of the door, above the trim, tucking under the vapor barrier. Wrap the jamb legs (of the framing not the door) with a self adhesive waterproof membrane. In this case with the concrete sill, you don’t need to do the bottom, although ideally a stainless steel sill pan is best, or a flexible membrane flashing if there is a sill that sits on top. In this case, cut the jamb legs 1/8” short on either side and use a sealant joint to fill the gap. 4. Seal all sides and edges. This is probably the most important thing you can do for longevity. Seal all 6 sides of the door (the top and bottom edge need to be sealed, not just the sides and front and back where you see) as well as the bottom of the jamb legs. If for some reason you need to have wood contact concrete without a gap, make sure it’s sealed, and create a dam with sealant.
I appreciate your post, the detail added by identifying parts of the doors coupled with your reasoning for making the measurements. This helped me understand a lot.
....and that's how we explain the process ! I understood every step, and that's not always the case. Great video, well done and much appreciated. .... now I've got a door to install and I'm going to try my best to do exactly what you said. Wish me luck ! I'll get back to you with the results.
I try to be as clear as possible but can still get side tracked with too many details. I think you'll figure it out. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@askillthatpays Didn't notice any 'side track' and as we say; " It's the details that makes great work". It's what I'll be doing this coming week end ... replacing a door with a new jamb. Thanks again. I'll try my best to not disappoint you !
Thanks for explaining the process. Watched another video from another TH-camr that made it look just as easy, however they didnt explain how to measure the opening and stuff
I was looking for a video to help me make a prehung door for my exterior water heater access. The original one that came with the house was made out of plywood and was a joke. Other videos I looked at had absolutely nothing about the planning and just showed quick clips of boards being cut and slapped together. Unless you are already an expert, those videos don't help. Your video gave me most of the information I needed to do my DIY job. Other videos can show me how to nicely mortise the hinges and make a door slab and install a door knob nicely. Now I feel I could make my own prehung doors for any purpose. Thanks.
That's great to hear. I'm glad I could be of assistance. The problem with many DIY or door videos is that they're either incomplete or they only show best case scenarios which rarely occur, so I try to show and explain as much as I can. Thanks for watching.
Int and ext jambs are slightly different, but the concept is the same. Here's a short regarding making int jambs. Thanks for watching. th-cam.com/users/shorts0Hkf-KgDi_0
Not bad for DIY, it’s best to buy an adjustable threshold and screw it to the bottom of your jam legs before you set the door. And 4 9/16 is standard for 2x4 walls.
Yes. I have other videos demonstrating that product. In this case, they simply didn't have one so I had to improvise. And 4 9/16 is standard, however, in CA where most ext walls are uneven and varied thickness of stucco, it's often best to get larger jamb stock and custom rip them. Thanks for watching.
These typically take me 4-6 hours. Stucco is always the most challenging and time-consuming surface to work with. If it's wood siding or brick it much faster. Thanks for watching.
HELP ME PLEASE. BS contractors removed load bearing wall and I noticed the plastic corner beed is 5 in half inches wider on top and 5 inches smaller going down the entryway jamb. I bought 5inch doorway jamb but its 1 inch shorter on top but fit flush going down. What should I do?
I would put the jamb in place and put a couple screws top and bottom to hold it steady. Whichever side the hinges are on, hold that side of the jamb flush to your existing wall. Then hold a pencil along the wall on the crooked side and mark the jamb top to bottom. Then remove the jamb and cut the line with a circular saw or free-hand on a table saw. It won't be perfect, but it will be close enough to install the casing and caulk. OR install the jamb then float layers of plaster on the wall to bring it flush. Choose whichever you think will look better and is more do-able for you. Good luck and thanks for watching.
I would add framing and whatever wall material is necessary to match. Here's a short video that shows such a thing. Thanks for watching. th-cam.com/users/shortsX_qx4KOtiXU
You keep skipping mortising the hinges which is the very reason I watched this video. Other than that, it was a good watch. And you skipped boring out the door holes.
That's because I have so many videos on mortising hinges that I don't want to include them in EVERY video. The longer the videos are, the less likely people will watch them, that's why. Check out my playlist called "Mortising for door installation." Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Thanks for noticing. Most people can't do this at all. I do it one handed while making videos for you to enjoy. As my good friend Wayne Dyer once said, "don't go through life looking for reasons to be upset. " Thanks for watching.
That was an incredible, in depth tutorial. Truly a masterclass. I love learning how to do things from someone that has complete knowledge of his subject. Thank you!
Thank you for those kind words. I've done this for many years and remember how difficult it was to figure things out at times, so I'm happy to share my experience with others. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Wow that was the best video I've seen on building jambs and hanging a door. I'm building the jambs from upcycled 1x4s. This helps a lot. So many good tips in this video. Thanks for going slow and taking it step by step for us beginners.
wow, I'm so glad you enjoyed that. I've been doing this a long time and am very happy to share the things I've learned with others. thanks for watching.
Agreed!
Really good video. Thank you. 9/10. A little rushed after “ cutting and removing shims”. How to install threshold. What’s the door stop? etc.
I can't always include everything as these are actual jobs I'm doing so there's a time element, and if I forget to shoot something I can't start the job over. Do the best I can and I thank you for watching.
Great work sir. Thanks for the pertinent info.
Happy to share my experiences. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this wonderful video.
You're welcome. I'm happy to share my experience, and thank YOU for watching.
Pretty good, couple things though for anyone that plans on doing this:
1. Prime the cut edge of the jambs, this is finger jointed pine and will easily rot, anywhere you cut to bare wood, use a aerosolized primer, it takes a couple more minutes but protects that wood from getting rotten quicker.
2. Round the edge over on the jamb where you cut it. The sharp square edge can easily be split, a round over not only looks and feels better, but it protects the wood. Think of a 2x4, they aren’t doing roundovers because they care about the clients hands, they do it so the boards are more likely to make it to their destination in one piece.
3. Flash the door. Use a rigid metal flashing on the top of the door, above the trim, tucking under the vapor barrier. Wrap the jamb legs (of the framing not the door) with a self adhesive waterproof membrane. In this case with the concrete sill, you don’t need to do the bottom, although ideally a stainless steel sill pan is best, or a flexible membrane flashing if there is a sill that sits on top. In this case, cut the jamb legs 1/8” short on either side and use a sealant joint to fill the gap.
4. Seal all sides and edges. This is probably the most important thing you can do for longevity. Seal all 6 sides of the door (the top and bottom edge need to be sealed, not just the sides and front and back where you see) as well as the bottom of the jamb legs. If for some reason you need to have wood contact concrete without a gap, make sure it’s sealed, and create a dam with sealant.
Thanks for watching.
I appreciate your post, the detail added by identifying parts of the doors coupled with your reasoning for making the measurements.
This helped me understand a lot.
That's great to hear. I'm happy to pass along the things I've learned in my years of doing this. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, well done sir!
Glad you enjoyed and thanks for watching.
....and that's how we explain the process ! I understood every step, and that's not always the case. Great video, well done and much appreciated. .... now I've got a door to install and I'm going to try my best to do exactly what you said. Wish me luck ! I'll get back to you with the results.
I try to be as clear as possible but can still get side tracked with too many details. I think you'll figure it out. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@askillthatpays Didn't notice any 'side track' and as we say; " It's the details that makes great work". It's what I'll be doing this coming week end ... replacing a door with a new jamb. Thanks again. I'll try my best to not disappoint you !
Great explanation of why and how. 😊
I appreciate your kind words and thanks for watching. More to come.
This is a great lesson. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful. Happy to share some knowledge. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for explaining the process. Watched another video from another TH-camr that made it look just as easy, however they didnt explain how to measure the opening and stuff
I'm happy to help. Everyone has their own method, so I gladly share my experience. Thanks for watching.
I was looking for a video to help me make a prehung door for my exterior water heater access. The original one that came with the house was made out of plywood and was a joke. Other videos I looked at had absolutely nothing about the planning and just showed quick clips of boards being cut and slapped together. Unless you are already an expert, those videos don't help. Your video gave me most of the information I needed to do my DIY job. Other videos can show me how to nicely mortise the hinges and make a door slab and install a door knob nicely. Now I feel I could make my own prehung doors for any purpose. Thanks.
That's great to hear. I'm glad I could be of assistance. The problem with many DIY or door videos is that they're either incomplete or they only show best case scenarios which rarely occur, so I try to show and explain as much as I can. Thanks for watching.
Thank you SO much !! This has explained so much to me
Glad I could help. I've been doing this a long time and happy to share what I've learned along the way. Thanks for watching.
Great video. Do you know if the same process applies to an interior doorway?
Int and ext jambs are slightly different, but the concept is the same. Here's a short regarding making int jambs. Thanks for watching.
th-cam.com/users/shorts0Hkf-KgDi_0
Not bad for DIY, it’s best to buy an adjustable threshold and screw it to the bottom of your jam legs before you set the door. And 4 9/16 is standard for 2x4 walls.
Yes. I have other videos demonstrating that product. In this case, they simply didn't have one so I had to improvise. And 4 9/16 is standard, however, in CA where most ext walls are uneven and varied thickness of stucco, it's often best to get larger jamb stock and custom rip them. Thanks for watching.
great video thanks
thanks for watching. I appreciate it
Hi how long did this take you? Great video:)
These typically take me 4-6 hours. Stucco is always the most challenging and time-consuming surface to work with. If it's wood siding or brick it much faster. Thanks for watching.
HELP ME PLEASE.
BS contractors removed load bearing wall and I noticed the plastic corner beed is 5 in half inches wider on top and 5 inches smaller going down the entryway jamb.
I bought 5inch doorway jamb but its 1 inch shorter on top but fit flush going down.
What should I do?
I would put the jamb in place and put a couple screws top and bottom to hold it steady. Whichever side the hinges are on, hold that side of the jamb flush to your existing wall. Then hold a pencil along the wall on the crooked side and mark the jamb top to bottom. Then remove the jamb and cut the line with a circular saw or free-hand on a table saw. It won't be perfect, but it will be close enough to install the casing and caulk. OR install the jamb then float layers of plaster on the wall to bring it flush. Choose whichever you think will look better and is more do-able for you. Good luck and thanks for watching.
What should we do if the top part where the horizontal piece goes, there is no wall and we only have 2 walls at both sides?
I would add framing and whatever wall material is necessary to match. Here's a short video that shows such a thing. Thanks for watching.
th-cam.com/users/shortsX_qx4KOtiXU
@@askillthatpays Thank you, it helped. you are welcome.
excellent
Thanks. I'm glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate the kind word and thanks for watching.
Very informative and got most of the info I needed, but the camera was just too rapid moving for me so I had to cut it short.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. It's not easy to actually do my work AND take video with my phone, so the results vary wildly. Thanks for watching.
You keep skipping mortising the hinges which is the very reason I watched this video. Other than that, it was a good watch. And you skipped boring out the door holes.
That's because I have so many videos on mortising hinges that I don't want to include them in EVERY video. The longer the videos are, the less likely people will watch them, that's why. Check out my playlist called "Mortising for door installation." Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
video is shaking
Thanks for noticing. Most people can't do this at all. I do it one handed while making videos for you to enjoy. As my good friend Wayne Dyer once said, "don't go through life looking for reasons to be upset. " Thanks for watching.
How ungrateful can you possibly be ..