Our Radiator Hoses Will ACTUALLY Make Your FK8 Honda Civic Type-R Run Cooler
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- In this tech video, Russ talks about the design features of the new 1936 ACUiTY Radiator Hoses for the FK8 Honda Civic Type R and how they are essential for any FK8 owner that is looking to upgrade the cooling system of their car. He discusses the shortcomings of the configuration for the OEM heat exchangers in the FK8 CTR under aggresive driving conditions and/or hot environments and explains how the ACUiTY radiator hoses are the best solution to make these cars run cooler (more so with other cooling upgrades as well like an upgraded radiator, high-flow grille, vented hoods, etc). With the help of Honda Performance Development engineers/race teams, these hoses have been proven to maximize the cooling efficiency of stock and aftermarket radiators, reducing average coolant temperatures in the hottest of track environments.
To purchase a set of these radiators for your FK8 project car, please visit our website:
www.acuityinstruments.com
Check out the installation guide here:
www.acuityinstruments.com/install
Video Breakdown:
Intro: (0:00)
OEM vs Silicone Hoses: (0:26)
FK8 OEM Heat Exchangers: (1:15)
Heat Transfer Concepts For Heat Exchangers: (2:00)
Impact Of Temperature Profiles: (3:21)
Heat Transfer In A Stock FK8: (5:13)
What Our Radiator Hoses Do: (6:15)
Testing Our Radiator Hoses: (7:01)
Closing Remarks: (7:42)
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Music provided by Epidemic Sound: www.epidemicsound.com
#acuity #oem2pointoh #fk8 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I've watched this so many times and this concept still It's genius to me! Woa!
Your a genius Russ, Honda needs to hire you lol
Haha, thank you! We are very grateful to just occasionally get to work with Honda in any way we can. Always an honor! :)
Keep the heat coming Russ, awesome explanations with the heat exchangers 🔥🔥🔥!!
Russ what you said made perfect sense, since the bottom half of the radiator is covered by intercooler and when you upgrade the intercooler you cover the radiator even more. The only thing that is holding me back is that Heat does rise that is why ever car has cooling coming out from bottom of radiator into engine. But it is worth a try.
Tony, this is a common statement among people who are new to heat exchanger system design. The fluid velocities, both of the water and air, are far too high for buoyancy effects (which is really what we are talking about when we say “heat rises”). I spent about 4 years designing heat exchanger packages for racing teams around the world. The fluid flow direction was always chosen based on optimal thermal orientation based on the thermal fields of the rad and the cooling air. This is all to say, heat does rise, but in this system it’s such a minor minor part of the heat transfer equation compared to the forced convection that’s happening from the moving water and air that you can neglect it. This is even true when designing very advanced cooling systems in F1 and similar. What’s very important though is that air can get out of the system, but in this case we have proven through many uses that the air bleeding ability is unhindered by the crossed hoses as long as the initial bleeding effort during installation is reasonably decent. Hope this helps. 💪🏼
Will this work on the 2.0t Accord
Nicely done guys! Can't wait to try these out first hand!
Thanks for the love 🙏🔥!
If you happen to have a radiator leak and coolant level goes down won’t you be sucking air as it is now trying to pull water from the top area?
These are the real deal! Amazing explanation and nice ctr the vid 😉
Beautiful CTR in the vid! 👌😅
Question! From my understanding there are sensors on the radiator that and by reversing the flow it can change what the sensors read and cause the car to act differently based on the different temps from revering the flows. As such I heard it will cause the fans to come in sooner and stay on longer. Do you know anything about this?
Garret, your understanding is generally correct. In practice, we have not seen any appreciable effects from the slight increase in the fan duty cycle that's caused by the flipped sensor configuration, since the actual change in temperature the sensors see is on the scale of single-digit degrees. Modern cooling systems are designed to limit the temperature change between the inlet and outlet of the engine to help avoid unwanted thermal gradients inside of the cooling jacket. The way this is done is by flowing the cooling fluid (water) through the system fast enough to reduce the temperature delta.
Sorry for the noob comment but I plan on doing a 24 hour road trip with minimal breaks. My CTR is fully stock with 25k miles. I plan to drive from SoCal to Houston, TX and will be going through 100+ degree weather in July, probably pushing 70mph to 90 mph and spirited driving with hard acceleration when I get to Texas. Do you think I’d need to run these hoses or would I be ok without it? Thanks in advance
Totally valid question! Our opinion is that generally speaking, street-driven FK8's do not have a strong need for cooling mods. We have not encountered street-driven FK8's that overheat. We really only see it at the race track and on warm/hot days. On a very cool track day, you'd likely be fine as well. Also note that on a stock CTR the difference would be small, so if at some point you do go after reduced coolant temps, we recommend considering upgrading the rad, grille, hood, or some combination of those. The cooling system seems to be sufficient on the street, but we've found it needs a lot of help on the track in warm climates.
Do you guys have any plans to make a cold air intake for the fk8?
We do not. 😭
Would this work well with aftermarket intercoolers? I'm looking at getting one soon as my FK8 seems to struggle to heat boost targets sometimes but I don't want to cause other problems by upgrading the intercooler. I'm looking at the 27WON or PRL intercoolers in particular.
Keep in mind that by adding heat to your cooling air from a bigger intercooler, you will reduce how much heat the radiator is able to dump into the same air, coming out the back of the intercooler. This will drive water temps up. The cross-flow hoses will help even more with an aftermarket intercooler because of this added heat from the intercooler, but they won't be able to help anymore once you've maximized thermal use of the cooling air going through your heat exchangers. If this is a street car, you'll likely be fine with the intercooler upgrade and these hoses, but if this is a track car, you may find you overheat when pushing the car on hot days with lots of lap traffic. If that is the case, consider use of a vented hood to evacuate the engine bay of hot air and help to improve airflow through your cooling pack.
TLDR: They will create an even more significant impact with an aftermarket intercooler than with a stock one, but you should still anticipate the possible need for a vented hood if the car will see a lot of track driving on hot days.
@@rgareh1 brilliant explanation thank you 😊 it will be mostly street driving for me so it sounds like it would be a good combo
Will this work with the Koyorad dual pass radiator? Do you have these in stock ready to ship? Thanks!
Hey! Yes it should 🤘, I believe @ezeagul1_r on IG is running the same hoses with that koyorad radiator 👍
@@ACUiTYinstruments Right on! Thank you :)
So basically the inlet hose goes to the bottom of the radiator and exits at the top? Is there any issue with the water pump having to push coolant up, rather it being the regular style with gravity and having the hot water enter the top and working it’s way down
Good quesiton. This is a common misconception. When you push water up (or rather, in the direction opposing gravity), it takes some amount of energy to move the water upwards. However, in cases where an equal mass of water is coming back down somewhere later in the loop, the kinetic energy used to "lift" the water is recovered as head pressure when it comes back down. There is still some minor loss due to friction from a small amount of additional hose length and turning (of the water's flow path), but those losses are very small compared to the flow resistance of the whole system (the thermostat, the engine's water jacket and the radiator are the primary sources of resistance), meaning the pump sees little appreciable additional work. For a more relatable example of how this energy is recovered in the downward part of the loop, think of the practice of siphoning a liquid out of a pool or similar reservoir and how once the siphone is started, the flow continues without any pump etc as long as the output of the hose is just slightly below its inlet.
@@rgareh1 if it works if works, and if it’s proven then that’s great, but I honestly think it’ll slow down the flow and possibly cause hot areas in and around the engine that is not getting the proper pressure and flow. If the bottom of the radiator doesn’t get enough air flow to exchange the heat, it’s more of a front design issue, which would be cool to see if people modified the cars to have better front end air flow.
I’m not going against the idea, it just seems weird lol and like I said if it works great then that’s the proof 👍
Russ your the bomb.
Yes to more videos like this 🔥🔥
Thank you so much! 🙏🏻 We are trying to release more tech vids to help educate the community a bit. Please let us know if there are certain topics or products you think we should feature in future videos! :)
i have a question about this since 10th gen civic si water pumps are already weak will this stress the water pump even more?
These are for the 10th Gen Type R's only. That said, the increase to pumping losses in the system are almost none. Between the system being closed-loop (which negates lift-related losses), and the additional tubing adds resistance that is nearly 0 compared to the substantial pressure losses in the rad and engine itself.
@@rgareh1 i apperciate the comment thank you!
@@reggieh6038 No problem. Out of curiosity, where did you learn what you said about the 10th Gen Si water pumps? I've not seen that particular complaint about the OEM water pump on the 1.5t motors previously.
@@rgareh1 maperformance has a video on what breaks when you start to modify 10th gen civic si's they mention one of the things that fail in their car was the water pump. the gear inside is made of a weak material and it shattered their's
Will you make one for the 10th gen civic Si?
Yes we are planning to release hoses later this year for the 1.5t's, but they won't have the flip flow feature because the radiator in those cars flow horizontally instead of vertically like the fk8s 🤘
I’m new to this but do I have to remove the bumper to replace the hose or nah??? My car is stock so if I purchase this hose, do I have to get an aftermarket radiator because I see people changing their radiator..
No need to remove the front bumper to install the hoses, however you will need to remove the airbox, bulkhead cover, and undercover plate to remove the OEM radiator hoses. Check out our install guide available here for more details on the product/install process 🙏: www.acuityinstrumenrs.com/install
You dont need to install an aftermarket radiator with our hoses, but they are compatible with most aftermarket replacements 👍.
Got something like this for the si? I notice heat soak ... im tired of looking over n over at my temps on ktuner
We do have radiator hoses for the 1.5t's in the works (no concrete etas), but they won't have a flow reversal feature because the coolant flows horizontally rather than vertically like the fk8s.
will this add stress to the water pump ?
We were not able to measure an appreciable increase in pressure drop through the system after changing the hoses (meaning the pump is not needing to work harder), and water temps only went down, so the water pump's longevity should not be impacted. We've also had a few sets on daily driven FK8's that see mixed track time and full race cars alike for over a year with no water pump issues to speak of.
When can we expect an INTAKE video with some chart numbers , especially seeing its 465$ I would think we would get some insight into it ? Maybe for a future video
Have you seen the write-up and dyno graphs that were created for a comprehensive comparison? The work was done by an independent shop to try to reduce any bias and provide real results. We have a link to it with some dyno charts on the product pages for those intakes on our site. Also, if you want to know what gains to expect over your current setup, I highly recommend reaching out to Dan at e-tunez (info@e-tunez.com) as he has tuned hundreds of 9th gens and probably 50+ vehicles equipped with our Curl Control intake. Also, with several thousand kits installed, there's a ton of anectodal reports of gains on forums, Facebook etc. We always prefer outside sources to provide dyno numbers as we feel they are more authentic. :)
Will this fit an accord 2.0?
Theoretically they should be close, but we have not witnessed overheating problems with the Accords, since they aren't tracked as much as the FK8's, so I'm not sure it would benefit you in any way if it did fit. If you are having issues with overheating that are not related to some other core issue, then it may be worth your trying.
They fit. I’m running them. Solid construction, and look great. But no noticeable gains up to this point.
So the 1.5t don’t need reverse?
That's correct. The civics with the 1.5t motors use a horizontal-flow rad that is thermally aligned with the intercooler better. There would be no net gain from reversing radiator flow on them.
No these hoses are not needed, the 1.5t engines for the 10th gen platform have a different cooling system from the type r that is actually already well optimized with how the coolant flows through the radiator 🤘🏼
@@ACUiTYinstruments Is this still the case with the aftermarket Koyorad replacement for the 1.5t?
@@geforce5591 The 1.5t uses a horizontal-flow radiator. The thermal gradients work differently, so reversing the flow isn't necessarily as advantageous. The ideal flow direction for a horizontal flow rad is in the same direction as the airflow in the IC that's in front of it. As long as that's the case with the Koyo rad, you're pretty thermally optimized. :)
Ok so you claim air going through bottom of radiator is same temp as coolant in radiator. How???? What’s that temp or was that made up ?
How what? Are you asking how the intercooler heats the cooling air that goes through it that subsequently gets fed to the radiator?
We didn't' say they were always the same, just similar. As the temp of the cooling air and the coolant get closer to one another, the ability to move heat from the coolant to the cooling air also decreases. The temps are not constant and change constantly around a track as engine RPM (which impacts coolant flow) and vehicle speed (which effects cooling air flow) both change. We can't share the best datalogs that were taken during development as they were done by Honda Performance Development and are restricted by a confidentiality agreement. We did do some independent testing on Kevin Boehm's K20C1-swapped Civic X coupe though. Now first, keep in mind that the temperatures of the air coming out of the intercooler vary all over the intercooler. It's hottest by the inlet, coolest by the outlet. We instrumented the cooling pack at the lower left corner (so inlet side of the IC, bottom side of the radiator). We saw air temps coming out of the IC (and subsequently into the rad) around 190-195F. At the same time, ambient temps were recorded to be 95F (although the air on the track surface will be a touch warmer). At the same time, we recorded ECT coming out of the rad at around 205F-210F. The ranges are because the as stated, the data moved around depending on RPM and speed as well as number of laps (the car wouldn't hit peak temps until 5-10 laps in).
Anyone actually test this ?
Aside from a few customers who've reported their experiences with a reduction in average water temps out on the track/hot climates, Honda Performance Development helped us with testing these hoses to gather temp data from the cooling pack in the fk8 to aid in our R&D🤘.