Thanks for the video. Very helpful and I imitated this installation on a 2186. Worked great after I had installed just a new coil and it didn't work. I could tell, using a spark tester, that I still wasn't getting fire after installing the new coil. Dealer no longer carries the spark advance module, so really, I had no other choice. Still, I'm glad your video was around.
I think i have a good question for you. I have a dixon zeroturn with a cv16 high output. Sticker says its a cv15 tho. Anyways. Its always been a bit of a hard start but always started. Recently i was running it and it died. Had spark, and fuel. No compression. I did a head gasket, also had to use some timeserts. First start it kept flooding. Had to remove spark plug to clear cylinder two times. Third time i discontinued the fuel line and i got it to start. Connected fuel line and it was good, mowed the yard. It would start back up hot with choke on . Next day i go to start it up and nothing. Some poping but flooded before it could amount to any speed to get going. Same as first startup. I asumed it was the spark advance module. I did go for the cheapo 30 dollar ignition control module. Do you think my problem is its not the kohler version? Or do you know of something else that would cause this? I did clean lifters during rebuild so valves wouldnt stay open also checked flywheel key. Is good. Should i just get the kohler brand? Thanks in advance ç
Sounds like you have overfueling, not ignition problems. Have you checked spark when the engine is failing to start/flooding? That's what I would check first.
Hello, I have a CV16S that has this module set up. My engine runs perfectly other than the stator isn’t putting out enough voltage to charge the battery and run the lights. Does the DSAI (vs SAM) setup change how the charging system work? I wondered since air gap no longer matters, how the stator would get enough power. Thanks! Edit: the engine doesn’t have a voltage regulator either which confuses me. Also, thanks for the video I couldn’t find a conversion video for this other than on the twin engines.
Where were you testing your stator output? There should be a three pin voltage regulator mounted to the engine shroud. Two outer terminals are stator AC input to the VR and center terminal is the DC output to the battery. The ignition and charging system are two different systems, and assuming the wiring is all intact and not compromised the two should not affect each other.
@@SolunaGarage thanks for reply. So mine utilizes the 3amp 70 watt stator, not the 9 or 15 amp. Which I think is why it doesn’t have a regulator or two white AC cables like most do. It has 3 wires which are yellow, black, and green (brake). The manual says to check DC volts on the black, which I believe uses a diode to convert AC to DC. That number fails the test, however it passes the Ohm test. (Probe placed on yellow wire on the stator side of diode.) Knowing the ignition and charging systems are different helps. Maybe they are just loose connections.
I see. I just assumed you had the larger output system. If it worked before the ignition module replacement, it should work now. You didn't need to remove the flywheel for any reason, did you?
@@SolunaGarage I received the mower with the DSAI so I’m not sure the history. From research I’ve done, it doesn’t appear the flywheel needed to be changed with this model. I know on some of the later models the flywheel came with the conversion kits. If it’s not loose connections, do you think it would be worth checking the flywheel magnets?
I have a 2166 cub cadet with a child 16 engine I can not figure out how to hook up the choke rod if you could send me pictures of the choke rod to carburetor I spent hours try to hook it up
i was curious as to what symptom lead you to replace the smartbox and module combo. i myself am working on a 2166 ch16 as well. runs great with the key on start, release back to run and the spark cuts out as if the kill was grounding. i have checked everything i can think of outside of that smartbox (unsure how to test this) thank you for any insight you might be able to offer.
I would actually start with the ignition switch, are you getting that 12v+ red wire in the run position out to the module? The symptoms that caused me to replace the module were a lack of spark after the engine had warmed up. It would run for about 10 minutes or so and then start stalling and not restarting until it cooled off. I also tested the resistance values on the coil and found them to be marginal or out of spec.
You can check the red wire at the relay input. The yellow wire at the relay should only show ground in the key off position, or with the seat switch active and no brake pedal depressed. The yellow wire is the "kill" wire to the module.
Glad to see that came together well. Just replaced magneto on the M18 here. Hope my runs like yours. Does that engine have a fuel shutoff at the carb from the key? Maybe they call in a Solenoid. thanks for the video Ken
Yeah the Command does have a fuel shutoff solenoid that blocks flow to the main jet, (or did...I've eliminated it on this CH16). The M18 in the 1882 doesn't, and they didn't have the lean mix/hot muffler condition that caused the backfiring you see on the newer engines.
According to the destructions, the old module is to be unhooked and discarded. I know you know this, and the reason you had it tie wrapped with the other is because the metal housing it was attached to was removed. Just sayin. Make some more 2166 videos--VERY HELPFUL
Referred back to this video today as I'm having intermittent ignition trouble once again with my ch 16 glad to see it
Hey Mike!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful and I imitated this installation on a 2186. Worked great after I had installed just a new coil and it didn't work. I could tell, using a spark tester, that I still wasn't getting fire after installing the new coil. Dealer no longer carries the spark advance module, so really, I had no other choice. Still, I'm glad your video was around.
Glad to hear you're keeping the Command alive and that the video was helpful. 🦾
That will simplify the electronics. Nice job
Yeah that dual component system is less than ideal. Expensive to swap it out to the standalone unit but worth it.
I think i have a good question for you. I have a dixon zeroturn with a cv16 high output. Sticker says its a cv15 tho. Anyways. Its always been a bit of a hard start but always started. Recently i was running it and it died. Had spark, and fuel. No compression. I did a head gasket, also had to use some timeserts. First start it kept flooding. Had to remove spark plug to clear cylinder two times. Third time i discontinued the fuel line and i got it to start. Connected fuel line and it was good, mowed the yard. It would start back up hot with choke on . Next day i go to start it up and nothing. Some poping but flooded before it could amount to any speed to get going. Same as first startup. I asumed it was the spark advance module. I did go for the cheapo 30 dollar ignition control module. Do you think my problem is its not the kohler version? Or do you know of something else that would cause this? I did clean lifters during rebuild so valves wouldnt stay open also checked flywheel key. Is good. Should i just get the kohler brand? Thanks in advance ç
Sounds like you have overfueling, not ignition problems. Have you checked spark when the engine is failing to start/flooding? That's what I would check first.
What did you do with the old spark advance module that was left hangin'? What I mean is, was it completely removed?
Yes, it was removed entirely.
Can you point me to the video where you took off the shroud and flywheel housing?
Looks like you found it already, but here ya go:
th-cam.com/video/2x72lJNcXN8/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I have a CV16S that has this module set up. My engine runs perfectly other than the stator isn’t putting out enough voltage to charge the battery and run the lights. Does the DSAI (vs SAM) setup change how the charging system work? I wondered since air gap no longer matters, how the stator would get enough power. Thanks!
Edit: the engine doesn’t have a voltage regulator either which confuses me. Also, thanks for the video I couldn’t find a conversion video for this other than on the twin engines.
Where were you testing your stator output? There should be a three pin voltage regulator mounted to the engine shroud. Two outer terminals are stator AC input to the VR and center terminal is the DC output to the battery.
The ignition and charging system are two different systems, and assuming the wiring is all intact and not compromised the two should not affect each other.
@@SolunaGarage thanks for reply. So mine utilizes the 3amp 70 watt stator, not the 9 or 15 amp. Which I think is why it doesn’t have a regulator or two white AC cables like most do. It has 3 wires which are yellow, black, and green (brake). The manual says to check DC volts on the black, which I believe uses a diode to convert AC to DC. That number fails the test, however it passes the Ohm test. (Probe placed on yellow wire on the stator side of diode.)
Knowing the ignition and charging systems are different helps. Maybe they are just loose connections.
I see. I just assumed you had the larger output system. If it worked before the ignition module replacement, it should work now. You didn't need to remove the flywheel for any reason, did you?
@@SolunaGarage I received the mower with the DSAI so I’m not sure the history. From research I’ve done, it doesn’t appear the flywheel needed to be changed with this model. I know on some of the later models the flywheel came with the conversion kits. If it’s not loose connections, do you think it would be worth checking the flywheel magnets?
Yeah, I would check them if it isn't too difficult to access. Being a vertical engine it wouldn't be too terrible depending on application.
I have a 2166 cub cadet with a child 16 engine I can not figure out how to hook up the choke rod if you could send me pictures of the choke rod to carburetor I spent hours try to hook it up
Email us @ solunagarage@gmail.com
Is there an easy way to get to the ignition module without taking the engine shroud off?
Nope! And if you take this chance to clean out the shroud and cooling fins and replace your front main seal it will make the job worthwhile.
i was curious as to what symptom lead you to replace the smartbox and module combo. i myself am working on a 2166 ch16 as well. runs great with the key on start, release back to run and the spark cuts out as if the kill was grounding. i have checked everything i can think of outside of that smartbox (unsure how to test this) thank you for any insight you might be able to offer.
I would actually start with the ignition switch, are you getting that 12v+ red wire in the run position out to the module?
The symptoms that caused me to replace the module were a lack of spark after the engine had warmed up. It would run for about 10 minutes or so and then start stalling and not restarting until it cooled off. I also tested the resistance values on the coil and found them to be marginal or out of spec.
You can check the red wire at the relay input. The yellow wire at the relay should only show ground in the key off position, or with the seat switch active and no brake pedal depressed. The yellow wire is the "kill" wire to the module.
Glad to see that came together well. Just replaced magneto on the M18 here. Hope my runs like yours.
Does that engine have a fuel shutoff at the carb from the key? Maybe they call in a Solenoid.
thanks for the video Ken
Yeah the Command does have a fuel shutoff solenoid that blocks flow to the main jet, (or did...I've eliminated it on this CH16). The M18 in the 1882 doesn't, and they didn't have the lean mix/hot muffler condition that caused the backfiring you see on the newer engines.
@@SolunaGarage And yet the M18 in the
1862 has the solenoid, kind of a pain in the
hiney in my opinion.
Ken
Interesting that they opted for the shutoff on the 1862 but not the 1882. Model years difference, I assume.
According to the destructions, the old module is to be unhooked and discarded. I know you know this, and the reason you had it tie wrapped with the other is because the metal housing it was attached to was removed. Just sayin. Make some more 2166 videos--VERY HELPFUL
This module has been working very well. I've mowed all year with it. It starts better and has been very reliable. Thanks for watching 🤘