I have been fooling around with my Kohler 16 hp single cyl.for a week now.Not getting fuel.Two of these "oem" pumps from Amazon. Finally put the metalarm in the vice & bent it a bit (straightened it out if you will) Now it works.
The extra gasket and flange is likely that the pump is used on multiple engines. It could also be a spacer that changes the position of the pump lever relative to the cam lobe to produce a different stroke length, which would result in different fuel flow levels.
Could the check valves be tested by blowing gently in the input side of the pump (air should flow) and into the output side of the pump (air should not flow)? Similar to how the needle & float is tested on a carburetor. Or is the pump different internally that might not work that way? I sometimes want to take broken things apart to see what makes them tick. I think putting the spacer in and find that it isn't needed than it is omit it and find out that it was needed because of a bent pump arm or more serious damage to the pump.
@@TheOtherBill 25 years is a long time, though the machine isn't constantly being used. A friend (now deceased) had a gardening business. He had one of these mowers. It was used every day. I know he replaced the fuel pump a lot of times.
I use nothing but Shell premium with 0 % ethanol in everything. Never fuel with corn in it. You didn’t mention if you set the valve lash. You do know that you can buy gasket removal in a spray can? It sure is stupid that the manf can’t sell the pump with the fittings in place.
That barb assembley is some horribly designed crap that should be inplacefrom factory about the worst mess from John Deere I've seen an in line electric pump would have been a lot better.
Just noticed the chapter title round the 20 minute mark. "We do it right because we do it twice." It suddenly feels like I'm watching a Mustie1 video....
The meat plate and gasket is for a machined surface mounting. The one that was on the pump is for a cast mounting as you found out. I had to replace my pump on LT150. The fuel filter was empty so took line off at pump and gas started running out right away. I an OEM pump and it had the instructions in it. It may have cost more but it saved a lot of time too. Glad to hear yours running again. Very good video.
Nice fix James: You can put a blank off plate on the pump outlet and drill a 1/4" hole in it for a brass hose fitting and then run a Kawasaki or Briggs pulse pump instead of the Kohler one. I have changed some and Taryl has a video on changing it to a pulse pump. Thanks for great video's.
Ive seen the taryl video,,have done that install myself.on Briggs,use a valve cover that has the hole or create one,others the fitting ddition has worked for me
Great video as always. I have to say that I like you avoiding your face in contrast to most people which make us watch twice the size of their real life faces on our big screens frequently. Calming and therapeutic, carry on :)
I think the metal piece is a shim to allow the pump to fit on two different engines. Without the shim. It pumps more fuel because it engages the lobe more. Likely there are like a 16 and an 18 hp engine that it would fit. The 18 will by necessity take more fuel.
I've had a few of those Commands over the years. I have always converted them to Briggs style impulse pumps when the mechanical pump inevitably fails. I gut the mechanical pump, plug the lower port, add barb fitting to the top port, connect that the impulse port on the pump. Fuel lines are self explanatory. Screw with tek-screws to the fan shroud. Tada! I've not had to replace an impulse pump and the conversion is (was) cheaper than replacing the mechanical pump. Just another bit of knowledge for the back brain!
I have a couple of those water cooled kawasaki 15 hp engines with the unique fuel pump and water pump, they run fine still,but parts getting hard to find
In less than a minute you could’ve taken the four screws off of the OEM Pump. Most likely a little debris in the check valve. 25 year old OEM pump is better than a brand new Chinese one
For the love of God plug the hole with a clean blue shop paper towel when using roloc disc's. The plastic has abrasive in it, when you get that fine dust all over the place and it eventually gets in your oil, it turns your oil into liquid abrasive. Do NOT let any of that dust get into the engine!
Some mechanical fuel pumps will leak fuel into the crankcase when they fail so always check the oil level. Parts that have green paint are twice the price. :-)
Many years ago I owned a 16 year old car with exactly the same problem and the mechanics tried everything but they found that the camshaft had a grove worn in it because of the pump arm, in the end they just put an electric pump on it and blocked off the old pump hole.
You can facilitate gasket removal using common household paint remover or Goof-Off. Some of the bubbling paint removal sprays will eat it almost to the point of wiping the remaining gasket off with a rag. This is, of course; provided someone ahead of you didn't glue it on with 3M yellow or the like.
DO NOT USE THE ROLOC WHEEL, the aluminum oxide will get inside the engine and destroy the bearings! GM has banned them on their vehicles for this and even have a TSB about it!
@@jcondon1 chemicals, razor blade, time, elbow grease: General Motors recommends the use of a razor blade or plastic gasket scraper to clean the gasket surface on engine components that are to be reused. When cleaning gasket surfaces, please note the following: • When using a razor blade type gasket scraper, use a new razor blade for each cylinder head and corresponding block surface. Hold the blade as parallel to the gasket surface as possible. This will ensure that the razor blade does not gouge or scratch the gasket surfaces. • Do not gouge or scrape the combustion chamber surfaces. • Do not gouge or scratch any engine-sealing surface during the cleaning process. Alternative Cleaning Method: To properly clean the sealing surface prior to reassembly, GM Low VOC Cleaner, P/N 19287401 (in Canada, P/N 88901247), should be sprayed on the mating surface. Use care to avoid getting solvent in any area other than the mating surface to be cleaned. Allow it to soak in for several minutes to loosen the old RTV sealer/gasket material. GM strongly recommends using a plastic razor blade or non- metallic scraper to remove all loose sealer/gasket material. The appearance of the gasket surface is not critical - the feel is. There will be indentations from the gasket left in the cylinder head after all the gasket material is removed. The new gasket will fill these small indentations when it is installed. I reached out to DrillBrush about abrasives in their products and they said: None of our brushes have abrasives, they have non-scratch nylon bristles. Our softer pads (White, Light Blue, and Red) also lack an abrasive and are composed a nylon/polyester fiber blend.
Followed this video yesterday. Very helpful. A couple of small process changes I made helped a bunch. In removing the fuel pump I took the bolts out before removing the small vertical portion of gas line and during re-attachment put the same line on before bolting to the engine. Made it much easier to work with. In determining what parts to use for the gasket, I just looked at how the old one attached.
Yes! No reason to remove hose first. In fact, to remove plate and gasket you can simply release clamps and then rotate the pump around the hose. MUCH easier than what he did.
It would be real nice James if they had instructions on what that metal plate is for. I think your good for another 25 years! Great video as always. 💲👍🇺🇸
Not always the fuel pump when the engine is starving for fuel. On the John Deere's especially, always check the air vent hole in the fuel cap. This hole will eventually plug up over time with dust and not allow the fuel pump to pull fuel from the tank. It starts out gradually like your problem and gets worse over time until it just won't run. Very much enjoy all your videos.
had the exact same issue on my honda engine. just like James i assumed it to be fuel pump issue but before buying a new one i watched an obscure TH-cam video which mentioned about checking fuel cap for plugged air vent before assuming that the fuel pump is faulty. took out the fuel cap (honda engine has air vent built in to their fuel cap) and dipped it inside diesel fuel overnight. shaked it down to remove any dust remaining before taking it out of diesel fuel. engine started like a new one. I'm so glad i came across that advice about clogged air vent before buying an expensive fuel pump.
thats a lot easer than my pump on my Simplicity CFC 18hp Kohler Magnum took two hours to get it out,,,no fun ,,,i put in a oem kohler ,,was about to go electric
Another interesting vid! I always learn something from your work. BTW, would it have been possible to install the hose/tubing on top of the pump before the mounting it. Maybe save some fuss/extra work.
Definitely some sort of editing error ? Your back side of your head was visible ? How can this be ? My favorite part of Fall is raking leafs in piles for the kids and animals to jump and play in. Touching and seeing the leafs up close you see their beauty, colors, and textures .
8:00 just take it easy with that pad it’s a fine abrasive so the longer you sit the more you take off. As long as the gasket is gone your ok. You don’t need to remove any staining otherwise your taking off extra material.
If you did something wrong, the engine wouldn't start. The extra flange is probably for a larger engine. They likely included it so you wouldn't have to part hunt.
I had a cam driven fuel pump on an old car years ago. Until it gets some fuel in there, they don't feel like they are working much. We had this happen to a Kohler years ago, and my innovative father bought a cheap electric pump at the auto parts store (intended for a go cart). That saw the tractor through the rest of its useful life.
As soon as I saw that spacer I thought this isn’t going to work because the cam and pump actuator are designed for a specific tolerance and adding the spacer may cause a problem. Yup. Then fitting that new hose I kept asking you why you weren’t mating the hose first and then bolting on the pump, but you didn’t hear me! Then you did it the same way a second time because you didn’t have faith the pump was actually working! I get that but I would have bolted it on and gone with the second test, but that’s just me. On the other hand, I got to yell, “We struck gas!!!” 😉👍🔧🧰
I have a feeling that metal plate may be for spacing it out so it can be used in multiple instances. Its probably to clearance the lever arm a hair away from the cam lobe sometimes to bring it into spec.
Excellent video and diagnosis. If I may make a suggestion, stuff a small clean rag or paper towel in to opening while using the Roloc bristle disc to prevent old gasket material from entering the crankcase.
The risk with old fuel hose (20+ years, remember) is that you will wreck something (like the metal fuel line) tryingng to get the very stuck rubber off. In this case the snip was the best idea..one end is thrown away on the old pump.. while the bit on the metal end can now be dealt with by removing the clip and slitting the rubber.....no stress on the metal fuel line....
I have an Lt 150 John Deere that has no fuel coming out of the filter? I ordered a new fuel pump as there only 15.00 but watching this I don’t think that’s my problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I got the same engine on my GT225. That spacer is not needed. If you do use the spacer it moves the arm too far away from the cam. It is only meant for some engines. Just the gasket and you are good to go!
Man o man. 5 mins on your starter? Ouch! And when your installing the pump (twice) why not hook up the output line before you thread in bolts to secure the new pump. And why burn the pump dry like that. Take a blow gun and a rag and pressurize the tank to push fuel thru. Super ez. And last but not least, using a torque wrench on every fastener on lawnmower's and generator's non critical fasteners is silly, expecially when your just guessing on the torque values.. it's not the space shuttle. (NTYD). Haha. Oh yea, I would have just measured the arm or match up the two pumps to figure out the plate requirement
Thank you for the video! I had this issue on a Kohler Command Pro 23, diagnosed the issue per your guidance then replaced the fuel pump and it's resolved. Much appreciated!
Help please, my riding mower does'nt start, I used a spark plug tester to test for spark and i get a spark, connect the spark wire back to the spark plug and won't start but if I leave the spark plug tester in line between the spark wire and the spark plug it will run, what could be the problem?? Thank you for any help.
Hello James From Mark In Ky. I have a John Deere 165 hydro with the FB460V Kawasaki engine in which I recently had a fuel delivery issue. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and pulse hose in which normally would probably fix a delivery issue. Unfortunately I was having the same exact issue as before in which I removed the screw on the fuel bowl to drain out any possible impurities which still did not work. At that point, I disconnected the section of fuel hose coming from the fuel tank underneath the seat to where it feeds the fuel pump and hooked up a test tank with a heavy mixture of SeaFoam in which the engine immediately started and ran as it should. The hose going to the fuel tank had some obstruction that was not letting the fuel flow in which I used compressed air to back flow the fuel tank with about three quick blasts of air. After that, The fuel flow was considerably better in which I removed the test tank hose and replaced the regular fuel hose. The John Deere has been running strong ever since. I guess over a period of time that sediment transferred from gas can had accumulated inside of the fuel tank into the fuel line. The John Deere 165 has a pickup line that sticks down into the fuel tank with a 90 degree turn where the fuel tank valve is mounted. Dealing with the IH metal fuel tanks and other farm equipment over the years kind of taught me to always check for good fuel flow from the fuel tank. Thanks for your great video, James.
Errr the gaskets what is the confusion metal plate against pump paper gasket against block bolt on why do people get so darn confused by visually simple straight forward things these days
I have a 15.5 HP Kohler Command that is 20+ years old on my machine too. Used your head gasket video (my FIRST JC video ever btw) to do that job. Yours has the same hydraulic lifter tick that mine does and I have replacement lifters ready to go in this winter as mine ticked quite loud for about 20 min the first time I ran it back in the spring. Same ones used in a Chevy engine as I understand it and pretty inexpensive too. Anyway, mine is gravity fed so I don't have a fuel pump, but a JC video will not go unwatched no matter. Glad you got your quasi leaf machine running again. Mowed for the last time here in NC on black Friday so my lifter job will be under way after the holidays. Keep em coming JC!
I encountered the exact same thing with a spacer plate on my 1993 Ford Sierra Sapphire. It's an "either/or" arrangement that allows for multiple applications for a single pump kit, but in the case of the Sierra, to allow for one pump kit to replace two different OEM fitments. The critical factor is that you should turn the engine to bring the cam lobe to the point where it fully deflects the pump lever arm, then install the pump and push it manually against the block face. If the pump flange will not sit against the block flange under hand pressure, then you need to install the spacer - Otherwise, omit the spacer. Remember though, this must be done with the cam lobe at the point of maximum lift.
@@ratbag359 That is a very good point! One thing that is for certain, if the engine was turned over, and the pump was the wrong one in that respect, it would be destroyed.
James does the site that you ordered the Stens replacement carburetor have a place to input information? If so maybe you could suggest that they include that in the box when they send it. Or it is for a race cam engine that Kholer has a secret engine build. Thanks for sharing your video with us. Ed
I have a 19hp craftsman gold engine... about 3 years old. Just had to replace the camshaft because the decompression trigger broke... from what I understand a very common problem with these overhead valve engines. So my pro tip of the day is... after starting the engine dont let it idle ... run it at half throttle or more whenever possible to avoid beating up the decompression trigger... nice video... thank you for your time...
I know this is unrelated, Honda EB1900x Generator, was running fine, voltage etc. New plug new carb and run sweet. I sold it for a slight loss to free up some money. The new owners were happy, they had lights a TV and charging their phones no issue. I installed new spark plug, full oil change with flush due to being sat a while. Was running and outputting spot on. They had some sort of electrical issue in a caravan which blew their RCD box, they did notion plugging in a tumble drier and I said NO it won't handle that. Now they say it won't start 2 weeks later, although I told them what oil it took they contacted me later in a week asking is it two stroke or 4 stroke, yet I'd given them the 4 stroke empty bottle. Now it won't start and wanting their money back, do I just tell them to politely go away?
That is hard to answer. Had a similar issue when a contractor purchased a generator and a week later (after running it for 40 hours) it stopped making power and he wanted his money back. I refunded him, but was convinced he did something to trash it. Turned out it was not his fault, bad brushes. The circuit breaker should protect it if they tried something stupid like running the dryer. If it has compression then probably not a serious issue.
Very well done! I probably would have converted it to an impulse style pump but it’s nice to keep things in their original state when you can. A simple Instruction sheet would be nice, especially with a universal item that can be used on different engines!
I'm replacing this same fuel pump on a L110, and I had a small amount of what looked like oil come out when I removed the bottom bolt to the old pump. Is that normal?
I have been fooling around with my Kohler 16 hp single cyl.for a week now.Not getting fuel.Two of these "oem" pumps from Amazon.
Finally put the metalarm in the vice & bent it a bit (straightened it out if you will)
Now it works.
The extra gasket and flange is likely that the pump is used on multiple engines. It could also be a spacer that changes the position of the pump lever relative to the cam lobe to produce a different stroke length, which would result in different fuel flow levels.
I agree. My initial thoughts were to use it on a newer engine and remove it for an engine with a worn lobe.
That would be my guess as well.
Really??
Great video and very well laid out and explained /cheers ScrapBongo
I’m surprised that you didn’t open the original pump to see why it stopped working.
Great job James 👏 looking forward to seeing you and ken's next live stream 👍
James I would like to see you pull apart that fuel pump.
great/productive/clear video
Could the check valves be tested by blowing gently in the input side of the pump (air should flow) and into the output side of the pump (air should not flow)? Similar to how the needle & float is tested on a carburetor. Or is the pump different internally that might not work that way? I sometimes want to take broken things apart to see what makes them tick.
I think putting the spacer in and find that it isn't needed than it is omit it and find out that it was needed because of a bent pump arm or more serious damage to the pump.
The metal mounting plate is to fit the preformed gasket of the new pump. The existing engine block mount hole is too big for the preformed gasket.
Awesome job
Nice ride on mower!! Those Kohler engines are generally good. Pity about the fuel pump they use.
It only lasted 25 years ...
@@TheOtherBill 25 years is a long time, though the machine isn't constantly being used. A friend (now deceased) had a gardening business. He had one of these mowers. It was used every day. I know he replaced the fuel pump a lot of times.
should of shot some wd into the pump to prime like an external oil pump
In line fuel filter for a z255 John deer
Put the gasket to the motor and plate to the pump
Nice
What was the torque setting on the fuel pump
Someone looked it up from the service manual and commented 80 in/lbs
Well off it mows!
You sure those wing nuts are torqued to spec? LOL
I use nothing but Shell premium with 0 % ethanol in everything. Never fuel with corn in it. You didn’t mention if you set the valve lash. You do know that you can buy gasket removal in a spray can? It sure is stupid that the manf can’t sell the pump with the fittings in place.
0% ethanol is the way to go for anything with a carburetor. This engine has hydraulic lifters. Valve lash not adjustable.
That barb assembley is some horribly designed crap that should be inplacefrom factory about the worst mess from John Deere I've seen an in line electric pump would have been a lot better.
Nice
Kinda curious to see inside the faulty pump
th-cam.com/video/GFAYH-hlZUs/w-d-xo.html
So am I. I expected him to open it, explain how it works and check it. Missed opportunity. Only few video's show a fuel pump and they are all impulse.
Just noticed the chapter title round the 20 minute mark. "We do it right because we do it twice." It suddenly feels like I'm watching a Mustie1 video....
Darren Mustie of Mustie 1 makes good tractor videos.... Nice job James, now do a forensic autopsy on the old pump...
The meat plate and gasket is for a machined surface mounting. The one that was on the pump is for a cast mounting as you found out. I had to replace my pump on LT150. The fuel filter was empty so took line off at pump and gas started running out right away. I an OEM pump and it had the instructions in it. It may have cost more but it saved a lot of time too. Glad to hear yours running again. Very good video.
Nice fix James: You can put a blank off plate on the pump outlet and drill a 1/4" hole in it for a brass hose fitting and then run a Kawasaki or Briggs pulse pump instead of the Kohler one. I have changed some and Taryl has a video on changing it to a pulse pump. Thanks for great video's.
Ive seen the taryl video,,have done that install myself.on Briggs,use a valve cover that has the hole or create one,others the fitting ddition has worked for me
Great video as always. I have to say that I like you avoiding your face in contrast to most people which make us watch twice the size of their real life faces on our big screens frequently. Calming and therapeutic, carry on :)
Do you have someone particular in mind. I sure do!
I’ve always been wanting to see his face he sounds so fine and sexy
I think the metal piece is a shim to allow the pump to fit on two different engines. Without the shim. It pumps more fuel because it engages the lobe more. Likely there are like a 16 and an 18 hp engine that it would fit. The 18 will by necessity take more fuel.
I've had a few of those Commands over the years. I have always converted them to Briggs style impulse pumps when the mechanical pump inevitably fails. I gut the mechanical pump, plug the lower port, add barb fitting to the top port, connect that the impulse port on the pump. Fuel lines are self explanatory. Screw with tek-screws to the fan shroud. Tada! I've not had to replace an impulse pump and the conversion is (was) cheaper than replacing the mechanical pump. Just another bit of knowledge for the back brain!
That is the way to go on these. I was surprised the mechanical pump was still available. Had assume I would be converting to a pulse pump.
I have a couple of those water cooled kawasaki 15 hp engines with the unique fuel pump and water pump, they run fine still,but parts getting hard to find
Great idea. I'd love to see a video of this process. Do you know of any to reference?
@@kyleculbertson5608 I don't know of any, but I'm sure they exist. I cannot be the only person who did this. @James Condon Video Idea!
Slip the upper hose on before putting bolts in.
I was yelling at the screen!
In less than a minute you could’ve taken the four screws off of the OEM Pump. Most likely a little debris in the check valve. 25 year old OEM pump is better than a brand new Chinese one
If you observed the cardboard box, it was made in Taiwan.
No, something in these pumps fails with age. If you buy a new old stock from Deere, 3 out of 4 chance it will be bad out of the box.
@@johndeerekid167 They have a rebuild kit on Amazon for 10 bucks
Yea, the stens is just a $12 Chinese pump for $40.
@@johndeerekid167 most likely a sticking diaphragm. Easy to fix with a little lube
For the love of God plug the hole with a clean blue shop paper towel when using roloc disc's. The plastic has abrasive in it, when you get that fine dust all over the place and it eventually gets in your oil, it turns your oil into liquid abrasive. Do NOT let any of that dust get into the engine!
Some mechanical fuel pumps will leak fuel into the crankcase when they fail so always check the oil level. Parts that have green paint are twice the price. :-)
Great repair. Nice looking machine for 25 years old. Keep the vids coming.
Many years ago I owned a 16 year old car with exactly the same problem and the mechanics tried everything but they found that the camshaft had a grove worn in it because of the pump arm, in the end they just put an electric pump on it and blocked off the old pump hole.
Thanks for the video. Who would know what the c-clip is for? It should come with instructions.
As always, James, nice work! And persisting with the short top fuel hose!
You can facilitate gasket removal using common household paint remover or Goof-Off. Some of the bubbling paint removal sprays will eat it almost to the point of wiping the remaining gasket off with a rag. This is, of course; provided someone ahead of you didn't glue it on with 3M yellow or the like.
DO NOT USE THE ROLOC WHEEL, the aluminum oxide will get inside the engine and destroy the bearings! GM has banned them on their vehicles for this and even have a TSB about it!
Interesting. Missed that one. Any idea what they recommend now?
@@jcondon1 chemicals, razor blade, time, elbow grease:
General Motors recommends the use of a razor blade or plastic gasket scraper to clean the gasket surface on engine components that are to be reused. When cleaning gasket surfaces, please note the following:
• When using a razor blade type gasket scraper, use a new razor blade for each cylinder head and corresponding block surface. Hold the blade as parallel to the gasket surface as possible. This will ensure that the razor blade does not gouge or scratch the gasket surfaces.
• Do not gouge or scrape the combustion chamber surfaces.
• Do not gouge or scratch any engine-sealing surface during the cleaning process.
Alternative Cleaning Method:
To properly clean the sealing surface prior to reassembly, GM Low VOC Cleaner, P/N 19287401 (in Canada, P/N 88901247), should be sprayed on the mating surface. Use care to avoid getting solvent in any area other than the mating surface to be cleaned. Allow it to soak in for several minutes to loosen the old RTV sealer/gasket material. GM strongly recommends using a plastic razor blade or non- metallic scraper to remove all loose sealer/gasket material. The appearance of the gasket surface is not critical - the feel is. There will be indentations from the gasket left in the cylinder head after all the gasket material is removed. The new gasket will fill these small indentations when it is installed.
I reached out to DrillBrush about abrasives in their products and they said: None of our brushes have abrasives, they have non-scratch nylon bristles.
Our softer pads (White, Light Blue, and Red) also lack an abrasive and are composed a nylon/polyester fiber blend.
Followed this video yesterday. Very helpful. A couple of small process changes I made helped a bunch. In removing the fuel pump I took the bolts out before removing the small vertical portion of gas line and during re-attachment put the same line on before bolting to the engine. Made it much easier to work with. In determining what parts to use for the gasket, I just looked at how the old one attached.
Yes! No reason to remove hose first. In fact, to remove plate and gasket you can simply release clamps and then rotate the pump around the hose. MUCH easier than what he did.
It would be real nice James if they had instructions on what that metal plate is for. I think your good for another 25 years! Great video as always. 💲👍🇺🇸
They might do that roger, but you' ll need to be able to read chinese...
Not always the fuel pump when the engine is starving for fuel. On the John Deere's especially, always check the air vent hole in the fuel cap. This hole will eventually plug up over time with dust and not allow the fuel pump to pull fuel from the tank. It starts out gradually like your problem and gets worse over time until it just won't run. Very much enjoy all your videos.
had the exact same issue on my honda engine. just like James i assumed it to be fuel pump issue but before buying a new one i watched an obscure TH-cam video which mentioned about checking fuel cap for plugged air vent before assuming that the fuel pump is faulty.
took out the fuel cap (honda engine has air vent built in to their fuel cap) and dipped it inside diesel fuel overnight. shaked it down to remove any dust remaining before taking it out of diesel fuel. engine started like a new one. I'm so glad i came across that advice about clogged air vent before buying an expensive fuel pump.
That’s usually if it runs for 15 minutes then die
thats a lot easer than my pump on my Simplicity CFC 18hp Kohler Magnum took two hours to get it out,,,no fun ,,,i put in a oem kohler ,,was about to go electric
I would of attached the short top fuel line before bolting the fuel pump on but that is me very entertaining video @James Condon
Another interesting vid! I always learn something from your work. BTW, would it have been possible to install the hose/tubing on top of the pump before the mounting it. Maybe save some fuss/extra work.
exactly
Definitely some sort of editing error ? Your back side of your head was visible ? How can this be ? My favorite part of Fall is raking leafs in piles for the kids and animals to jump and play in. Touching and seeing the leafs up close you see their beauty, colors, and textures .
It was a far away shot!
It's possible it works on multiple engines that some require the spacer
8:00 just take it easy with that pad it’s a fine abrasive so the longer you sit the more you take off. As long as the gasket is gone your ok. You don’t need to remove any staining otherwise your taking off extra material.
Also by using a pad with your fingers you get a smooth surface at the risk of having a no longer flat surface.
It would have been nice to see the old pump dismantled and failure cause investigated. I hope you would follow-up with another video.
If you did something wrong, the engine wouldn't start. The extra flange is probably for a larger engine. They likely included it so you wouldn't have to part hunt.
I had a cam driven fuel pump on an old car years ago. Until it gets some fuel in there, they don't feel like they are working much. We had this happen to a Kohler years ago, and my innovative father bought a cheap electric pump at the auto parts store (intended for a go cart). That saw the tractor through the rest of its useful life.
Did you turn the gas back on
Ive had a few of the valve cover mounted pumps just stick internal intermittenly,replaced with new Kohler pumps
As soon as I saw that spacer I thought this isn’t going to work because the cam and pump actuator are designed for a specific tolerance and adding the spacer may cause a problem. Yup. Then fitting that new hose I kept asking you why you weren’t mating the hose first and then bolting on the pump, but you didn’t hear me! Then you did it the same way a second time because you didn’t have faith the pump was actually working! I get that but I would have bolted it on and gone with the second test, but that’s just me. On the other hand, I got to yell, “We struck gas!!!” 😉👍🔧🧰
I have a feeling that metal plate may be for spacing it out so it can be used in multiple instances. Its probably to clearance the lever arm a hair away from the cam lobe sometimes to bring it into spec.
I would like to have seen an inspection of the old pump.
Excellent video and diagnosis. If I may make a suggestion, stuff a small clean rag or paper towel in to opening while using the Roloc bristle disc to prevent old gasket material from entering the crankcase.
Put the short hose on the pump first and then move the pump up into position.
Not sure why you cut it to begin with. Thanks James
The risk with old fuel hose (20+ years, remember) is that you will wreck something (like the metal fuel line) tryingng to get the very stuck rubber off.
In this case the snip was the best idea..one end is thrown away on the old pump..
while the bit on the metal end can now be dealt with by removing the clip and slitting the rubber.....no stress on the metal fuel line....
Have same mower, easy to convert to electric fuel pump with a block off plate. Love the mower overall, a real workhorse
Maybe install the outlet hose on first before installing the pump ⛽ would be easier
I just went through this! 3 pumps later i finally bought the oem pump and it works great! Save money and time by buying factory pump.
Or a cheap electronic in-line and have instantaneous starting....
Just went through the same process with my neighbors. Third time, we bought and installed an OEM pump.
They don't make the OEM pumps anymore, everyone just re-boxes the Chinese made universal ones.
Nice video James, those Kohler Commands are hard to kill.
I have an Lt 150 John Deere that has no fuel coming out of the filter? I ordered a new fuel pump as there only 15.00 but watching this I don’t think that’s my problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I got the same engine on my GT225. That spacer is not needed. If you do use the spacer it moves the arm too far away from the cam. It is only meant for some engines. Just the gasket and you are good to go!
Man o man. 5 mins on your starter? Ouch! And when your installing the pump (twice) why not hook up the output line before you thread in bolts to secure the new pump. And why burn the pump dry like that. Take a blow gun and a rag and pressurize the tank to push fuel thru. Super ez. And last but not least, using a torque wrench on every fastener on lawnmower's and generator's non critical fasteners is silly, expecially when your just guessing on the torque values.. it's not the space shuttle. (NTYD). Haha. Oh yea, I would have just measured the arm or match up the two pumps to figure out the plate requirement
So glad you didn’t have music blaring in the background as so many people do, good video
The first person that I've seen use that snap ring to put those parts on other people didn't know what it was for
Thank you for the video! I had this issue on a Kohler Command Pro 23, diagnosed the issue per your guidance then replaced the fuel pump and it's resolved. Much appreciated!
Help please, my riding mower does'nt start, I used a spark plug tester to test for spark and i get a spark, connect the spark wire back to the spark plug and won't start but if I leave the spark plug tester in line between the spark wire and the spark plug it will run, what could be the problem?? Thank you for any help.
Another great video. I would have never thought of removing the spacer.
Try using Dielectric grease on paper gaskets , repels liquids and keeps the gasket from sticking .
My question is - were you using atv fuel on a lawn mower, gotta make sure you are using grassoline in mowers. 👀🐸
Machine is running very well nice diagnostics and repair replacing the fuel pump and looks like alot of maple leaves ya got there @James Condon
Hello James From Mark In Ky. I have a John Deere 165 hydro with the FB460V Kawasaki engine in which I recently had a fuel delivery issue.
I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and pulse hose in which normally would probably fix a delivery issue. Unfortunately I was having the same exact issue as before in which I removed the screw on the fuel bowl to drain out any possible impurities which still did not work.
At that point, I disconnected the section of fuel hose coming from the fuel tank underneath the seat to where it feeds the fuel pump and hooked up a test tank with a heavy mixture of SeaFoam in which the engine immediately started and ran as it should.
The hose going to the fuel tank had some obstruction that was not letting the fuel flow in which I used compressed air to back flow the fuel tank with about three quick blasts of air. After that, The fuel flow was considerably better in which I removed the test tank hose and replaced the regular fuel hose. The John Deere has been running strong ever since.
I guess over a period of time that sediment transferred from gas can had accumulated inside of the fuel tank into the fuel line. The John Deere 165 has a pickup line that sticks down into the fuel tank with a 90 degree turn where the fuel tank valve is mounted. Dealing with the IH metal fuel tanks and other farm equipment over the years kind of taught me to always check for good fuel flow from the fuel tank. Thanks for your great video, James.
Errr the gaskets what is the confusion metal plate against pump paper gasket against block bolt on why do people get so darn confused by visually simple straight forward things these days
I have a 15.5 HP Kohler Command that is 20+ years old on my machine too. Used your head gasket video (my FIRST JC video ever btw) to do that job. Yours has the same hydraulic lifter tick that mine does and I have replacement lifters ready to go in this winter as mine ticked quite loud for about 20 min the first time I ran it back in the spring. Same ones used in a Chevy engine as I understand it and pretty inexpensive too. Anyway, mine is gravity fed so I don't have a fuel pump, but a JC video will not go unwatched no matter. Glad you got your quasi leaf machine running again. Mowed for the last time here in NC on black Friday so my lifter job will be under way after the holidays. Keep em coming JC!
Didn't know those Kohler's had a mechanical pump.Ive a Kawasaki and it's a vacuum pump.
I encountered the exact same thing with a spacer plate on my 1993 Ford Sierra Sapphire. It's an "either/or" arrangement that allows for multiple applications for a single pump kit, but in the case of the Sierra, to allow for one pump kit to replace two different OEM fitments.
The critical factor is that you should turn the engine to bring the cam lobe to the point where it fully deflects the pump lever arm, then install the pump and push it manually against the block face. If the pump flange will not sit against the block flange under hand pressure, then you need to install the spacer - Otherwise, omit the spacer.
Remember though, this must be done with the cam lobe at the point of maximum lift.
Also lets you know if you have wrong part if it won't go against block with the spacer.
@@ratbag359 That is a very good point! One thing that is for certain, if the engine was turned over, and the pump was the wrong one in that respect, it would be destroyed.
James does the site that you ordered the Stens replacement carburetor have a place to input information? If so maybe you could suggest that they include that in the box when they send it. Or it is for a race cam engine that Kholer has a secret engine build. Thanks for sharing your video with us. Ed
I have a 19hp craftsman gold engine... about 3 years old. Just had to replace the camshaft because the decompression trigger broke... from what I understand a very common problem with these overhead valve engines. So my pro tip of the day is... after starting the engine dont let it idle ... run it at half throttle or more whenever possible to avoid beating up the decompression trigger... nice video... thank you for your time...
hope you stripped down the failed pump, bet it was either a diaphram, or one way valve, im betting on a valve got a little crud in it.
WHY wouldn't you put that hose on the pump before you bolted it on?
Using hindsight in thougt. I would have checked length of the arm to the pump.
Had a John Deere this summer with similar issue. Turned out to be a blocked fuel cap.
I know this is unrelated, Honda EB1900x Generator, was running fine, voltage etc. New plug new carb and run sweet. I sold it for a slight loss to free up some money. The new owners were happy, they had lights a TV and charging their phones no issue. I installed new spark plug, full oil change with flush due to being sat a while. Was running and outputting spot on. They had some sort of electrical issue in a caravan which blew their RCD box, they did notion plugging in a tumble drier and I said NO it won't handle that. Now they say it won't start 2 weeks later, although I told them what oil it took they contacted me later in a week asking is it two stroke or 4 stroke, yet I'd given them the 4 stroke empty bottle. Now it won't start and wanting their money back, do I just tell them to politely go away?
That is hard to answer. Had a similar issue when a contractor purchased a generator and a week later (after running it for 40 hours) it stopped making power and he wanted his money back. I refunded him, but was convinced he did something to trash it. Turned out it was not his fault, bad brushes. The circuit breaker should protect it if they tried something stupid like running the dryer. If it has compression then probably not a serious issue.
Is it possible for this fuel pump to fail and allow gas into the crank case?
I thought you would change the fuel filter while you had it apart.👍🏻👏🏻
Very well done! I probably would have converted it to an impulse style pump but it’s nice to keep things in their original state when you can. A simple Instruction sheet would be nice, especially with a universal item that can be used on different engines!
28 minutes to explain a fuel pump, write a book!
Put the hose on before you rotate the pump in place. Much easier.
I have that same tractor over the years I’ve had to replace the fuel pump and the coil and rebuild the carburetor other than that it runs good😊
Hey i have a lt160 and im having issues starting it could u help me
My fuel pump is getting gas to the carb butt the carb is not taking it in
You definitely have the magical touch. And of course another great video.
How to place the pump arm into the block??
I'm replacing this same fuel pump on a L110, and I had a small amount of what looked like oil come out when I removed the bottom bolt to the old pump. Is that normal?
If the same as this one, then normal.
So what Airbase are you near?
The broken hose above the pump was your problem not the pump.
Heat gun can soften gaskets.
I would leave the old gasket.