The idea of marking the Dizzy is brilliant ! Makes the job much easier. Thank you! Her husband Rick :) (My motor also has the 351 firing order and roller rockers)
Another great video and good explanation. Wish I could hear it run after you went to 3/4 but I will take your word for it that it's much "gooder" now. Thanks for making and posting.
a dot of paint on top of your socket will help on rotation placement . and i like the sharpie trick guarantees you get back to top dead center for number one when you are done BONUS !!! :)
Nicely done walking through setting the valve train. It's frustrating chasing down small noises. Hopefully you got to get out and drive it with nicer weather! Now you just need to send some of that weather this way!
Yeah, I was able to put a few miles on her before we got another 6 inches of snow. Ugh. Oh well, before I know it I'll be wishing it was cold again because it can get so hot here in the summer. :)
Hay Andy, my 302 was also ticking also check all your header bolts for proper tightness. I had a 65 GT 350 clone great car yours is VERY Nice. Good Luck.
@@AndyKruseChannel when I 1st got my mustang it was super loud when I did my valve lash #3 was so loose it was literally able to flop around lol I understand how annoying it can be lol I'd imagine even more when everything is new and 💰 so I'm happy it worked out.
Sorry Boss, I don't know enough where I could say the 1.6 rockers would work with your specific Cam. My engine builder had a recipe for the 347 he's built for many years that he built me, and so I had him stick to it.
3:02 are those engine pro roller rockers have you seamed to find they are extra noisy kind of like a sewing machine? Also I just readjusted my valves to 3/4 turn past zero and still have a lifter noise. Granted this motor I had built by my engine builder only has maybe 15-20 mins run time on it just enough to break in the cam. But still have the lifter noise, all of the lifters still have pre load on them when you push down on them and they are all moving the same distance when you turn the engine over, so cam isn’t flat. I’ve been told by several engine builders I just need to drive it cause their may still be air in the lifter, but I’m scared to cause I don’t want to ruin the cam if the lifter is just bad and needs replaced. After you adjusted the valves to 3/4 turn past zero did that take care of the lifter noise completely or did you have to drive it more to further break in the cam and lifters and bleed any air that maybe in the lifters out? I have a comp cam 284 and comp lifters. What brand cam and lifters do you have?
After adjusting my lifters, I can barely hear that "sewing machine" sound, but only when I'm trying to listen for it. So it's more or less gone and I'm not really worried about it anymore. When I was adjusting lash, I found one that may not have been properly set during the engine build, and by redoing all of them may have fixed my issue, but I'll never know. In your case, it might take another 1/8th or 1/4 turn to get that sound to go away, but I'd talk to the engine builder first to make sure there isn't anything else they'd recommend. My Cam is the Trick Flow, "Track Max", Stage 2 (part number 51403002). Lifters are Trick Flow (part number 21400004).
$8k+ on a hand built engine and its doing that? im taking it back to the builder. but you have the knowledge to fix it and it makes for a good video so I don't blame you.
I didn't pay my builder that much, that was just what I was into the motor build and it included lots of parts and pieces I purchased over time to add to the final product. But yes, I was very frustrated, but I didn't think venting about it in this video would have helped. However, the motor is tight and sounds much better, so there's that. :)
Unfortunately the marks won’t tell you, you have to pull cyl 1 plug, put your finger tightly over the hole and turn the motor over. When you’re on the compression stroke you’ll feel air trying to get passed your finger. Once that happens you can then move over to the timing marks and see where TDC is. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel I tackled it this past weekend. I ended up buying a TDC indicator for $20. Huge success! My motor has no more ticking and is running extremely well!! Thank you for the video Andy. 💯
great video.... you said you heard a "sewing machine" sound. my question is what can happen if you don't make the adjustment? i also happened to have a push rod that mushroomed under the rocker arm on cylinder 7 nearest headers (i don't know if that is intake or exhaust) and am curious if you have an idea of what caused it.
If someone were to leave the lash I had on my car the way it was, it would just be noisy, forever. I don't know what would cause your push rod failure, but I would replace it sooner than later and then re-lash everything for good measure. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the reply... i did replace the pushrod but i didn't know what lash was (this was almost 20 years ago) and am now getting back to the car!! with the help of your video i can move on to this project. the mechanic who built my motor didn't have an answer either
I’ve got the same ticking in my 302 but just recently I’ve started getting a lot of popping and backfiring coming up out of the intake. Almost sounds like popcorn. I’ve heard by adjusting the lash it will fix this issue. Did you experience anything like that?
Sorry Boss, I did not. If you're having backfiring coming out of the intake, it might be running too rich, or you might have a timing issue. I don't think the ticking sound is related to what you are experiencing. :)
Man Andy can you please help. I just got my 347 back all new. Can’t get it on time correctly. Where does the distributor point for number 1 and what initial timing did you set it at? Please 🙏
How much spin motion will you have after adjusting the rocker arm? I did exactly like that and I have no movement on intake and i have movement in exhaust. After turing it a few times i will have no movement in exhaust but movement on intake. This is on cylinder one. I think I did it right I'll be starting it tomorrow morning. Wish me luck😅
I don't recall how much any of the rockers moved, but I do recall that there were a few that moved a tiny bit. I haven't had any issues since I've done this video and overall the motor is much quieter with respect to that clacking they were making. Good luck! :)
@Andy Kruse Thanks, man! I didn't realize that I hadn't specified that I was talking about the push rods, not the actual rocker arm. I did fire it up today, and it does seem to be much quieter, but I can't tell until I put the valve cover on.
3/4 of a turn after 0 lash is way to tight, it will cause the valve to stay open, I have fix numerous cars with this issue, by running near 0 lash or no more than 1/4 tune after 0 lash, BTW Love the car,
@@AndyKruseChannel I think 3/4 turn should be OK, definitely wouldn't do more than that, and everybody is going to have a different opinion about it though the cam/lifter company will have a recommendation. But starting with the pushrod being so tight that it can't be turned is what would worry me and make me think it's too tight after adding the 3/4 turn. I've always done to where you just barely start to feel drag on the pushrod (some people like to wiggle up and down and go until the slop is gone instead) then 1/2 turn. Anyway, I really like the channel and look forward to the next video!
Great video. May I ask your opinion on Comp Cams Pro Magnum lifters (hydraulic flat-tappet) calling for 0 to 1/8th turn? My engine clatters like a mofo, maybe worse than yours was. They warn against going tighter but I don't know what else it could be.
Sorry Boss, I don't know enough about your Cam and Lifters to know if going more of a turn will help and not damage anything. My guess would be to find a forum where someone has the same setup and see what worked for them. On my setup, I'm at the limit of what my Engine Builder said I could do. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I appreciate the reply. I've been scouring the internet for days and all I ever find is 1/2 to 1 turn. Can't find my specific combo... everyone is using roller cams. Anything I find about flat-tappet cams/lifters is how they're failing everywhere. Which is why I'm here doing more homework. Thanks again!
It does when you consider it takes two full rotations of the crank to get piston #1 in the exact same spot during the compression stroke. So yes, 90 degrees of rotation to get the next piston where you want it. 🙂
The idea of marking the Dizzy is brilliant ! Makes the job much easier. Thank you! Her husband Rick :) (My motor also has the 351 firing order and roller rockers)
Awesome!
Great explanation of valve adjustment preceedure. Very informatoive and easy to understand. Thank You, and you have a great looking Mustang!
Glad it was helpful! 😁
Another great video and good explanation. Wish I could hear it run after you went to 3/4 but I will take your word for it that it's much "gooder" now. Thanks for making and posting.
You can, I have made other videos since I did the valve lash. :)
Danke!
Awesome, thank you!!
a dot of paint on top of your socket will help on rotation placement . and i like the sharpie trick guarantees you get back to top dead center for number one when you are done BONUS !!! :)
Yeah, I like little tricks like that too. :)
Nicely done walking through setting the valve train. It's frustrating chasing down small noises. Hopefully you got to get out and drive it with nicer weather! Now you just need to send some of that weather this way!
Yeah, I was able to put a few miles on her before we got another 6 inches of snow. Ugh. Oh well, before I know it I'll be wishing it was cold again because it can get so hot here in the summer. :)
Hay Andy, my 302 was also ticking also check all your header bolts for proper tightness. I had a 65 GT 350 clone great car yours is VERY Nice. Good Luck.
Thanks for the tip!
All part of working out the bugs. Did she quiet down?
Yep, much gooder. It sounds the bestest now. I just need the snow to go away so I can put some more miles on her! :)
@Andy Kruse right! It keeps snowing here too. Most snow we have had in at least 6 years
@@AndyKruseChannel gooder? 😆 your silly
Great job Andy 👏 glad it smothed out some noise is normal it's the sounds that don't blend together lol.
Thanks. I doesn't sound like a sewing machine anymore, which was the goal for this video. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel when I 1st got my mustang it was super loud when I did my valve lash #3 was so loose it was literally able to flop around lol I understand how annoying it can be lol I'd imagine even more when everything is new and 💰 so I'm happy it worked out.
Hopefully the weather warms up & you can get her out!
I was thinking the same thing, then we got 6 inches of snow two days ago. I guess I get to look at it like all the money I'm saving on gas. :)
great video i have a 95 mustang gt custom cam. AFR aluminum heads etc... will this way work with 1.6 rockers?
Sorry Boss, I don't know enough where I could say the 1.6 rockers would work with your specific Cam. My engine builder had a recipe for the 347 he's built for many years that he built me, and so I had him stick to it.
3:02 are those engine pro roller rockers have you seamed to find they are extra noisy kind of like a sewing machine? Also I just readjusted my valves to 3/4 turn past zero and still have a lifter noise. Granted this motor I had built by my engine builder only has maybe 15-20 mins run time on it just enough to break in the cam. But still have the lifter noise, all of the lifters still have pre load on them when you push down on them and they are all moving the same distance when you turn the engine over, so cam isn’t flat. I’ve been told by several engine builders I just need to drive it cause their may still be air in the lifter, but I’m scared to cause I don’t want to ruin the cam if the lifter is just bad and needs replaced. After you adjusted the valves to 3/4 turn past zero did that take care of the lifter noise completely or did you have to drive it more to further break in the cam and lifters and bleed any air that maybe in the lifters out? I have a comp cam 284 and comp lifters. What brand cam and lifters do you have?
After adjusting my lifters, I can barely hear that "sewing machine" sound, but only when I'm trying to listen for it. So it's more or less gone and I'm not really worried about it anymore. When I was adjusting lash, I found one that may not have been properly set during the engine build, and by redoing all of them may have fixed my issue, but I'll never know.
In your case, it might take another 1/8th or 1/4 turn to get that sound to go away, but I'd talk to the engine builder first to make sure there isn't anything else they'd recommend.
My Cam is the Trick Flow, "Track Max", Stage 2 (part number 51403002). Lifters are Trick Flow (part number 21400004).
Unless you have a tick that wont go away 3/4 is too much. 1/2, or just a drop more so you can tighten a drop after the polylock hits
Thanks for the heads up.
$8k+ on a hand built engine and its doing that? im taking it back to the builder. but you have the knowledge to fix it and it makes for a good video so I don't blame you.
I didn't pay my builder that much, that was just what I was into the motor build and it included lots of parts and pieces I purchased over time to add to the final product. But yes, I was very frustrated, but I didn't think venting about it in this video would have helped. However, the motor is tight and sounds much better, so there's that. :)
Atta boy andy !!🎉 Hello from venezuela here. Got a new follower.
Welcome to the club. :)
Nice video. I have a 351C with flat tappet cam. Is it the same procedure to adjust the rocker arms?
Thanks!
The stock 351C (other than the '71 Boss 351 and '72 351HO) had bolt down pedestal style rockers, which unfortunately has no adjustment.
Nice video! Keep them coming
Thanks! Will do!
When following the distributor marks I made, how do you know when your on the compression stroke of each cylinder to perform the valve adjustment?
Unfortunately the marks won’t tell you, you have to pull cyl 1 plug, put your finger tightly over the hole and turn the motor over. When you’re on the compression stroke you’ll feel air trying to get passed your finger. Once that happens you can then move over to the timing marks and see where TDC is. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel I tackled it this past weekend. I ended up buying a TDC indicator for $20. Huge success! My motor has no more ticking and is running extremely well!! Thank you for the video Andy. 💯
great video.... you said you heard a "sewing machine" sound. my question is what can happen if you don't make the adjustment?
i also happened to have a push rod that mushroomed under the rocker arm on cylinder 7 nearest headers (i don't know if that is intake or exhaust) and am curious if you have an idea of what caused it.
If someone were to leave the lash I had on my car the way it was, it would just be noisy, forever.
I don't know what would cause your push rod failure, but I would replace it sooner than later and then re-lash everything for good measure. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the reply... i did replace the pushrod but i didn't know what lash was (this was almost 20 years ago) and am now getting back to the car!! with the help of your video i can move on to this project. the mechanic who built my motor didn't have an answer either
What brand are your rocker arms?
Elgin, they are part number SSR-2889RS.
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks 👍🏻
I’ve got the same ticking in my 302 but just recently I’ve started getting a lot of popping and backfiring coming up out of the intake. Almost sounds like popcorn. I’ve heard by adjusting the lash it will fix this issue. Did you experience anything like that?
Sorry Boss, I did not. If you're having backfiring coming out of the intake, it might be running too rich, or you might have a timing issue. I don't think the ticking sound is related to what you are experiencing. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks! I’m trying to figure it out!
Too much timing caused my popping once. Another time a busted S hose on my fuel pump.
Man Andy can you please help. I just got my 347 back all new. Can’t get it on time correctly. Where does the distributor point for number 1 and what initial timing did you set it at? Please 🙏
I set mine at 12 degrees before TDC. The pointer should roughly be in the 1:00 position. This can be tricky, patients is often required. 🙂
It only fires on 4 of the 8
@@AndyKruseChannel I need help with this
How much spin motion will you have after adjusting the rocker arm? I did exactly like that and I have no movement on intake and i have movement in exhaust. After turing it a few times i will have no movement in exhaust but movement on intake. This is on cylinder one. I think I did it right I'll be starting it tomorrow morning. Wish me luck😅
I don't recall how much any of the rockers moved, but I do recall that there were a few that moved a tiny bit. I haven't had any issues since I've done this video and overall the motor is much quieter with respect to that clacking they were making. Good luck! :)
@Andy Kruse Thanks, man! I didn't realize that I hadn't specified that I was talking about the push rods, not the actual rocker arm. I did fire it up today, and it does seem to be much quieter, but I can't tell until I put the valve cover on.
3/4 of a turn after 0 lash is way to tight, it will cause the valve to stay open, I have fix numerous cars with this issue, by running near 0 lash or no more than 1/4 tune after 0 lash, BTW Love the car,
Thanks for the heads up.
@@AndyKruseChannel I think 3/4 turn should be OK, definitely wouldn't do more than that, and everybody is going to have a different opinion about it though the cam/lifter company will have a recommendation. But starting with the pushrod being so tight that it can't be turned is what would worry me and make me think it's too tight after adding the 3/4 turn. I've always done to where you just barely start to feel drag on the pushrod (some people like to wiggle up and down and go until the slop is gone instead) then 1/2 turn. Anyway, I really like the channel and look forward to the next video!
Ive always done 0( pushrod is hard to turn) plus 1/4 turn.
I think 3/4 turn is too tight. Fords run better a little loose if you ask me.
Yeah, everyone seems to have their own recipe. :)
Great video
Thanks!
I would much rather have a loose one then ones that are way too tight! This is all part of the experience.
Yeah, I think it was just one loose rocker that was making all the noise. But no biggie, we're all good now. :)
👌
Which part? :)
Is the same for a 351w
Yes, if it has hydraulic lifters.
you engine builder needs to do this, for the breaking the engine.
Probably, but now I get to show other people how to do it, and I know it's exactly like I want it.
Great video. May I ask your opinion on Comp Cams Pro Magnum lifters (hydraulic flat-tappet) calling for 0 to 1/8th turn? My engine clatters like a mofo, maybe worse than yours was. They warn against going tighter but I don't know what else it could be.
Sorry Boss, I don't know enough about your Cam and Lifters to know if going more of a turn will help and not damage anything. My guess would be to find a forum where someone has the same setup and see what worked for them.
On my setup, I'm at the limit of what my Engine Builder said I could do. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I appreciate the reply. I've been scouring the internet for days and all I ever find is 1/2 to 1 turn. Can't find my specific combo... everyone is using roller cams. Anything I find about flat-tappet cams/lifters is how they're failing everywhere. Which is why I'm here doing more homework. Thanks again!
360degrees divided by 8 = 45 degrees,not 90degrees 😂😂😂😂
It does when you consider it takes two full rotations of the crank to get piston #1 in the exact same spot during the compression stroke. So yes, 90 degrees of rotation to get the next piston where you want it. 🙂