But they were all of them decieved. In the land of Germany, in the Fires of Mount Doom, The Dark Channel 'We Can Do That Better' forged, in secret, a Master Chuck to Clamp all others. And into this chuck they poured their cruelty, their malice and their will to dominate all chucks. One Chuck to Clamp them all.
Yes, that was very kind. I first hesitated to ask again but they were really kind and sent a set again. I have a specific thing in mind for which I need this chuck. We'll see when I manage to finish it.
I went through the same process for my EMCO Compact 5 CNC Chuck, except, Soft jaws are not available for these Chucks, so i made them myself.. having a CNC Mill greatly helps. So i measured the original jaws, drew them in CAD, and milled new jaws from 1.2510 steel. i milled a raised "Cross" on top, so i only have to mill a cross in the topjaws, which is way easier.. I too Faced the new Jaws in the lathe, before milling the locating features, then drilled and tapped the holes. the top jaws were also turned to the same height, after milling the cross and drilling the holes, and i now can clamp very delicate parts, like watchcase backs on only .8 mm, works a treat!.. What's also Cool, For working with Hexbar, you can Mill a hex in the jaws, to firmly grab it
Hi and thanks for your comment! That sounds really cool. You have an Emco Compact 5 CNC? Guess, who too since a few weeks... It will be official soon :) Do you have pictures or a documentation of your chuck build? Sounds really interesting. Would like to see how you did it.
You made a point of achieving a precision fit at the beginning of the video. When you were test fitting the top jaws to the base jaws it triggered a big smile at this end. You know.... The smile of achievement and the satisfaction that it brings. 🖖 Thanks! Wakodahatchee Chris
That was neat for your tiny lathe. Having a full size lathe they make what they call emergency 5-C collets. One for internal holding and one for external. Different size ones. With the larger ones you’ll need a tapered closer to help close the OD. They work awesome. I have several. They are soft so you can bore and reborn. And the others can be returned. They have a screw in the center which pulls to expand the fingers.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I know them. I guess on my small lathe there is no way of using proper emergency collets. So the chuck has to do the job :)
for such small rings like washers to hold it the jaw the notch cut in the jaw should be slightly conical "to the inside" so it gets pushed against the face as you clamp. Your inset cutter would work great to make such notch. Either way cool build!
This is the first YT project that I genuinely want to replicate for myself but I can't find the chuck on the site. The only lathe chuck and jaws listed are from Röhm. At any rate this is great idea. I always wanted soft jaws for my mini lathe and somehow never thought of buying a set and simply modify them to fit my own blocks.
Hi and thanks for your comment! They have an extra webshop for workholding. This is the chuck: www.spannsysteme-shop.de/dreibackenfutter-drehfutter-guss-80-mm-k11-80-spanntechnik.html
Great work! This is something I've been thinking about doing for a long time, and it's awesome to see that it can, indeed, be done. Something to make milling the slots/registers a bit easier: Mill from only one side (I usually mill from the fixed-jaw side of the vise), and rotate the workpiece 180* every cut. This will ensure that the feature is perfectly centered, and removes any possible error from repositioning the cutting tool to the other side of the work. You just have to remember to divide your remaining material in half, when adjusting for the next cut.
you can save the scrapped jaw by brazing another mild steel block on top since they're made of softer steel it should be fine, although the grooves themselves might be tempered - then this might not be the best way to save it :)
In the US we refer to these as American tongue and groove. These top jaws have been around a very long time I usually get them from US Shop tools. Good work.
Workholding washers for id or face work can be done with a normal collet chuck- if you slip a longer piece of material the same od as the washer (with a perpendicular turned face) into the collet first Then push the washer into the collet Can get really good face runout repeatability but it can be a little fiddly to set up
I think there are no 6 jaw chucks with 80mm. I'm even not sure if there are ones with 100mm. 100mm would be ok, but 125mm is definitely too big for this lathe.
Mal abgesehen davon, dass es Wechselbacken für die kleinen Futter aus Gründen der Logik nicht gibt, weil die Verschraubung den nutzbaren Durchmesser so limitiert, dass es den Aufwand nicht lohnt, wäre für deine Anwendung ein Blick Richtung Uhrmacherdrehbänke hilfreich. Es gibt eigens Ringspannfutter. Für das Spannen von Innen haben die Ähnlichkeit mit einem Stufenbohrer, für Spannen von Außen mit einem Konus. Die könnte man, sofern deine Maschine einen Morsekegel in der Spindel hat, auch direkt in selbige stecken. Bei einem Steilkegel dann mit Schraube/Mutter.
Any reason why, after cutting the jaws to length you didn't return them to the chuck and face them to length, rather than 3 individual set ups in the mill?
Hallo Kollege. Eine gute Arbeit, wie immer natürlich. Sag mal, hast du was besonderes in den Proxxon Bohrständer eingespannt oder nur eine normale Bohrmaschine. Weil du fräst damit echt gut. Ich konnte leider damit keine guten Ergebnisse erzielen. Aber das lag wahrscheinlich an der Bohrmaschine selbst. Mich würde echt interessieren was du da einspannen tust. Ich sehe bei dir immer nur Bohrständer und bisschen von den Bohrfutter. Sonst nichts 😂 Aber vielleicht ist das dein Geheimnis? Hoffe nicht. Alles Gute, viel Erfolg und bleib gesund.
Hi and thanks! The aluminium I bought just on ebay. There was a guy who sold scrap pieces of some waterjet work. It had the right thickness and size and was affordable.
Hi, good question. I could have done it that way but thought it would be easier to junk away some material first before the final finish on the lathe. But considering the time and the wasted jaw I probably should have done it as you said in the first place... :) Always learning ;)
I actually did this later, yes. You see this 1 min later or so. As the fly cutter doesn't like aggressive cuts, I thought it is better, to mill them first with a normal endmill.
Oh yes, I've noticed that too. I think the milling machine is too wobbly for the task and not that accurate anymore. I think the deviation is not too extreme, so it should be ok here.
Die Backen sind, soweit ich weiß, nicht gehärtet. Allerdings kamen sie mir schon etwas zäh vor. Ich habe einen ganz normalen HSS Gewindebohrer genommen. Musste aber sehr vorsichtig sein, damit er mir nicht abbricht.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter ok Joar wenn es C45 gehärtet ist fühlt sich das halbhart an. Bessere Legierungen merkt man es ganz schnell. Hab letztens eine bearbeitet wo man merkte das es robuster war denn der GS konnte nicht schneiden und verstumpfte sofort! VHM M4 hätz mir wharscheinlich verrissen 😅
Great job! I do have to point out that you are promoting unsafe practices. Even though your machines are small, unaware people do imitate what they see. Long sleeves and running spindles is quite unsafe. Also reaching in to grab a part while the spindle is running, big no no!! Please be aware of what you put out there. You do have the responsibility to exemplify good shop safety practices, both as the good machinist that you are, and also as a content creator. Keep up the good work!
But they were all of them decieved. In the land of Germany, in the Fires of Mount Doom, The Dark Channel 'We Can Do That Better' forged, in secret, a Master Chuck to Clamp all others. And into this chuck they poured their cruelty, their malice and their will to dominate all chucks. One Chuck to Clamp them all.
Haha, well said! Thak you! ;)
😂
Call Peter Jackson. Maybe a great hint for "The workshop hobbit"
"In the Land of Mordor where the shadows lie" (according to Tolkien?)
That was really cool of them to send you another set of soft jaws! Excited to see how you incorporate this chuck into upcoming projects. 👍👍
Yes, that was very kind. I first hesitated to ask again but they were really kind and sent a set again. I have a specific thing in mind for which I need this chuck. We'll see when I manage to finish it.
The unicrometer is my favorite guest on this channel.
Thanks ;)
I always thought it was a Llama of some sort 😂
You just have to be aware that no one will ever actually read what it measures. It's just too cute not to look into its eye!😍
I went through the same process for my EMCO Compact 5 CNC Chuck, except, Soft jaws are not available for these Chucks, so i made them myself.. having a CNC Mill greatly helps.
So i measured the original jaws, drew them in CAD, and milled new jaws from 1.2510 steel.
i milled a raised "Cross" on top, so i only have to mill a cross in the topjaws, which is way easier..
I too Faced the new Jaws in the lathe, before milling the locating features, then drilled and tapped the holes.
the top jaws were also turned to the same height, after milling the cross and drilling the holes, and i now can clamp very delicate parts, like watchcase backs on only .8 mm, works a treat!..
What's also Cool, For working with Hexbar, you can Mill a hex in the jaws, to firmly grab it
Hi and thanks for your comment! That sounds really cool. You have an Emco Compact 5 CNC? Guess, who too since a few weeks... It will be official soon :) Do you have pictures or a documentation of your chuck build? Sounds really interesting. Would like to see how you did it.
You made a point of achieving a precision fit at the beginning of the video. When you were test fitting the top jaws to the base jaws it triggered a big smile at this end. You know.... The smile of achievement and the satisfaction that it brings. 🖖
Thanks!
Wakodahatchee Chris
That was neat for your tiny lathe. Having a full size lathe they make what they call emergency 5-C collets. One for internal holding and one for external. Different size ones. With the larger ones you’ll need a tapered closer to help close the OD. They work awesome. I have several. They are soft so you can bore and reborn. And the others can be returned. They have a screw in the center which pulls to expand the fingers.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I know them. I guess on my small lathe there is no way of using proper emergency collets. So the chuck has to do the job :)
Hell yeah! Soft jaws are super convenient. 👌👍👍
Yes, they are! Thanks!
I actually laughed and woke the dogs when that washer let go. Man I'm already subscribing. less than 2 minutes in.
Thank you so much for your comment and for subscribing to my channel. I really do appreciate that. Happy to hear you enjoy my work!
for such small rings like washers to hold it the jaw the notch cut in the jaw should be slightly conical "to the inside" so it gets pushed against the face as you clamp. Your inset cutter would work great to make such notch. Either way cool build!
Hi and thanks for the hint and your feedback! I will keep that in mind. Sounds like a good idea to cut the recess that way.
This is the first YT project that I genuinely want to replicate for myself but I can't find the chuck on the site. The only lathe chuck and jaws listed are from Röhm.
At any rate this is great idea. I always wanted soft jaws for my mini lathe and somehow never thought of buying a set and simply modify them to fit my own blocks.
Hi and thanks for your comment! They have an extra webshop for workholding. This is the chuck: www.spannsysteme-shop.de/dreibackenfutter-drehfutter-guss-80-mm-k11-80-spanntechnik.html
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Danke! 👍
@4:08 ) Wow, that's pretty cool, and I didn't know, ... that Depeche Mode is still around!!
:)
Haha :D Well observed ;)
I made a set of Acetal soft jaws for my Sherline Late, and just finished them yesterday. Good video.
Nice to hear. It's a good thing to have soft jaws.
Thank you for finding the way on this; I should do the same in my shop.
Thank you very much! Good luck.
Great work! This is something I've been thinking about doing for a long time, and it's awesome to see that it can, indeed, be done.
Something to make milling the slots/registers a bit easier: Mill from only one side (I usually mill from the fixed-jaw side of the vise), and rotate the workpiece 180* every cut. This will ensure that the feature is perfectly centered, and removes any possible error from repositioning the cutting tool to the other side of the work. You just have to remember to divide your remaining material in half, when adjusting for the next cut.
Hi and thanks for your comment and feedback! I really do appreciate that. I will keep your tip on the milling strategy in mind for the next time.
Accuracy is impressive!
Thank you very much!
measure once, cut twice and it's still too short. Never fails ;-)
you can save the scrapped jaw by brazing another mild steel block on top
since they're made of softer steel it should be fine, although the grooves themselves might be tempered - then this might not be the best way to save it :)
Beautiful job. Enjoyed it.
Thank you very much!
In the US we refer to these as American tongue and groove. These top jaws have been around a very long time I usually get them from US Shop tools. Good work.
That's interesting to hear. Thanks for the information and your feedback. I really do appreciate that.
Hi dear.I would like to know where can I get those American tongue and groove jaws.Thank you.
@@angelramos-2005 US Shop Tools is one place.
@@terrymoorecnc2500 Thank you.
Workholding washers for id or face work can be done with a normal collet chuck- if you slip a longer piece of material the same od as the washer (with a perpendicular turned face) into the collet first
Then push the washer into the collet
Can get really good face runout repeatability but it can be a little fiddly to set up
Thanks for your comment! Sounds like a good idea too. I guess using the soft jaws is a little bit more convenient :)
Good work as always. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum last week 😎
Well now i need a milling machine too. Great video thanks
Thank you!
High quality stuff as always 👍🏻
Thank you very much!
Cool work thanks 👍
Thank you very much!
haha dude! you are crackin me up! love it!
Thanks!
It wouldn't be as much fun :) but Maprox makes some nice 6 jaw chucks for thin parts, not exactly cheap but they can be found used.
I think there are no 6 jaw chucks with 80mm. I'm even not sure if there are ones with 100mm. 100mm would be ok, but 125mm is definitely too big for this lathe.
It official, your lathe is better than a schaublin or a weiler since its small and versitile. 😮
:D Thank you very much! I'm humbled. There is still a lot left to do...
6:00 you could have done all three jaws at the same time 'in situ' on the lathe
I later did, you see that in the video. I was a little bit concerned if I can take so much material off on the lathe. It might have worked I guess.
Excellent work,but the link you provide sell to a limited number of countries.I like to buy the chuck from Spain.Can you help me?Thank you.
Hi and thanks for your comment and feedback. I will ask if they will ship to spain too.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Thank you for your help.
Nice work
Mal abgesehen davon, dass es Wechselbacken für die kleinen Futter aus Gründen der Logik nicht gibt, weil die Verschraubung den nutzbaren Durchmesser so limitiert, dass es den Aufwand nicht lohnt, wäre für deine Anwendung ein Blick Richtung Uhrmacherdrehbänke hilfreich. Es gibt eigens Ringspannfutter. Für das Spannen von Innen haben die Ähnlichkeit mit einem Stufenbohrer, für Spannen von Außen mit einem Konus. Die könnte man, sofern deine Maschine einen Morsekegel in der Spindel hat, auch direkt in selbige stecken. Bei einem Steilkegel dann mit Schraube/Mutter.
Really great projekt!
Thank you very much!
Очень крутая работа 👍👍👍
Any reason why, after cutting the jaws to length you didn't return them to the chuck and face them to length, rather than 3 individual set ups in the mill?
Very nicely done! Now for some Pie jaws?
Hallo Kollege. Eine gute Arbeit, wie immer natürlich. Sag mal, hast du was besonderes in den Proxxon Bohrständer eingespannt oder nur eine normale Bohrmaschine. Weil du fräst damit echt gut. Ich konnte leider damit keine guten Ergebnisse erzielen. Aber das lag wahrscheinlich an der Bohrmaschine selbst.
Mich würde echt interessieren was du da einspannen tust. Ich sehe bei dir immer nur Bohrständer und bisschen von den Bohrfutter. Sonst nichts 😂 Aber vielleicht ist das dein Geheimnis? Hoffe nicht.
Alles Gute, viel Erfolg und bleib gesund.
1:05 scared the crap out of me! lol
:D little joke ;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Keep them coming! Good humor is always good!
Where do you buy your taps from? And what brand are they?
Hi, I'm using a set of RUKO machine taps. It's a plastic box with M3-M12 including the tap drill for each size. Very happy with the quality so far.
8.04 nice video I wanted to know what type and where to buy for flattening aluminum?? thanks you!!
Hi and thanks! The aluminium I bought just on ebay. There was a guy who sold scrap pieces of some waterjet work. It had the right thickness and size and was affordable.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter yes but I was talking about the planer cutter? where and name cutter?thanks!!
nice work!
Superglue works well for Chris at Clickspring, and it takes a fractio of the time.
That's true, but everyone does that ;)
What's that I hear? You're gonna make a chuck from scratch? Nice
:D Sorry to disappoint you here... ;)
Hmm i wonder now how do they get these teeth in such jaws normally?
So... why not put the jaws in the chuck and turn them down on the lathe instead of sawing and milling??
Did I miss something?
Hi, good question. I could have done it that way but thought it would be easier to junk away some material first before the final finish on the lathe. But considering the time and the wasted jaw I probably should have done it as you said in the first place... :) Always learning ;)
haha! i saw it! googly eyes now! hahahahahahhaa love it!!!!!
Thank you very much!
and you'll be charging how much for these ? .. Cause I could sure use a set :)
Actually it is… Nice!
Thank you!
8:30 couldn't u fly cut all three pieced at once to ensure they were identical?
I actually did this later, yes. You see this 1 min later or so. As the fly cutter doesn't like aggressive cuts, I thought it is better, to mill them first with a normal endmill.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter yes, thank you for replying. I did see it later in the video. Well done!
make v shaped mating surfaces to remove inaccuracies.
If your slot is tapered as seen at 17:33, shouldn't that be a concern?
Oh yes, I've noticed that too. I think the milling machine is too wobbly for the task and not that accurate anymore. I think the deviation is not too extreme, so it should be ok here.
Hi
Hast Du die Gweinde in die gehärteten Backen gedreht?
War das ein HssE oder Vhm Gewindebohrer?
😅
Die Backen sind, soweit ich weiß, nicht gehärtet. Allerdings kamen sie mir schon etwas zäh vor. Ich habe einen ganz normalen HSS Gewindebohrer genommen. Musste aber sehr vorsichtig sein, damit er mir nicht abbricht.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter ok
Joar wenn es C45 gehärtet ist fühlt sich das halbhart an. Bessere Legierungen merkt man es ganz schnell.
Hab letztens eine bearbeitet wo man merkte das es robuster war denn der GS konnte nicht schneiden und verstumpfte sofort!
VHM M4 hätz mir wharscheinlich verrissen 😅
Ach...jetzt weiss ich, wer mir die TESA-Tiefenmessschraube aus dem 3er Set im Kleinanzeigenmarkt vor der Nase weggeschnappt hat ;)
:DHaha, ist das echt so?
👌👍👍
Класс!!!!
So sad I didn't get to see you tear the paper or whatever it was off of that aluminum
Oops I will keep that in mind for the next time ;) I did it on one little piece at 8:35 at least.
Great job!
I do have to point out that you are promoting unsafe practices. Even though your machines are small, unaware people do imitate what they see. Long sleeves and running spindles is quite unsafe. Also reaching in to grab a part while the spindle is running, big no no!!
Please be aware of what you put out there. You do have the responsibility to exemplify good shop safety practices, both as the good machinist that you are, and also as a content creator. Keep up the good work!
Metallica - Master of chuckets
Aluminium
🤑
chucky!
Я пиво пролил
:D
VAi desgastar rápido