@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I was beginning to think was the only one that remembered locking the tailstock & clicking the wiggle bar in. The spring kept it held between the centres and there was no need to accurately set the load with the tailstock. Too much load from the tailstock made the bar bend, too little and it rattled about.
Thanks for the comments, the lathe was built in 1981, I purchased it new in 1984 (as per a previous comment). it was 10 years preserved and unused during the family and work thing but always looked after and covered when not in use. Hope this clarifies. I'll do a video shortly for a maintenance day on that lathe, I'll go into more details of its past (with photos) then.
Excellent video. I did notice three things: 1. You are meticulous with your lathe and equipment. 2. You are a highly skilled worker who takes pride in his work. 3. You made a safety breach by removing swarf from the workpiece with your bare hands while the spindle is rotating! Never do this. I have seen very bad injuries resulting from this practice.
I've always been curious about how the knurling wheels directly effects the work-piece. So many people say it doesn't matter; just do it. This is the first channel that I know of who talked about it with a 'proof-of-concept'. Maybe there are others that I just don't know about. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to more content.
I believe it was Tom Lipton that disproved the need for specific diameters when knurling, it being a swaging process. On the other hand when cut knurling, the OD being correct is vital for a gòod knurl as the process is more like gear cutting.
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I think Mr. Pete even mentioned that specific diameters aren't needed, but I've always thought there was more to it. Like you mentioned, similar to gear cutting.
I have thought about this problem too. How about just drilling a centre hole in the block and then bring the dead centre in the tailstock up to it to 'lock' the block in place. Then tighten the chuck jaws in as needed?
Hi, thanks for the comment. That's the way I have always done it, much better method than the old push knurling. Far less stressful on the machine and tooling.
Threaded the block and attached a ground tube by a screw. ( Boring button).Set it central using slip guages. Put in the chuck and clocked. That how we were taught as apprentice. I do it the easy way with a pointy thing like you these days
This would have to be the most flash wobble stick I have ever seen. I'm a retired tool maker and I have always used a piece of 10g wire 12" long, sharpened to a point for the centre dot and to accomodate the dial gauge I just flattened a section of the wire just back from the point, on the anvil. Hold the other end of the wire in the tailstock chuck and that's all you need. 😁
I used similar, but 2mm piano wire with a ground divot together with a 0.001mm./div dial test indicator. That bit extra stiffness at the point has made the difference. Trained and used to work as an instrument maker, so precision could at times be enough to require parts (and measurement equipment) to "settle" before measurements where made.
I agree with you, that would work too. The objective I put up is to take on a lathe project (mostly for beginners) that encompasses many features of the lathe, and you get a dedicated tool at the end of the project.
If the end use will allow it, 416 free machining stainless steel works a treat in the home shop. Not cheap, a 25.4mm x 300mm ground finished rod is about $60. The ease of turning and drilling on smaller machines makes it worth the price.
Thanks for the comment, I think that 416 has a higher nickel content making it more corrosion resistant, I will see if I can find some and try it out. Thanks for the advice and welcome aboard.
Handy tool, nicely made. It was good to see a knurling tool used properly. After 50+ years as a mechanical engineer I've seen some ridiculous attempts to use various knurling tools which led to chewed up knurls and even tool breakage. It was also good to see you taking good care of your machine and equipment. Good post, first time here, but not last 👍
I absolutely love machining 304, it finishes so beautifully with no need to file,polish, or sand. It doesn’t like fine or light cuts so much but it looks so good when you hit the correct speeds and feeds with a good quality insert. This is the first time I’ve seen your channel and I can already tell I’m going fit right in here. I’m not into woodworking but I love manual machining and learning !
Thanks for the comment. I think you're right. No more accurate, just a tool dedicated for this job and an opportunity to explore different processes on the lathe.
These are great projects, another option for them to be strong and last a long time: Ream a 6mm hole in one end and shrink fit in a broken 6mm carbide endmill. You will need a tool and cutter grinder though to get the point.
You'll have to excuse me for not getting it. I saw you make many measurements that seemed irrelevant to me. When it came time for a measurement that was CRITICAL it was glaringly absent. I'm talking about the square stock you center punched at the end. That segment was sadly absent of any critical measurement. I did not see you blue that block and carefully mark the center before center punching it. I saw you willy nilly center punch it by eye. This in no way guaranteed it was on center. If I missed something I apologize but I did back it up a number of times just to be sure! Wakodahatchee Chris
Hi Chris, and welcome to the Channel. Thanks for the question. The square stock at the end of the video was never intended to be trued square. The centre punch mark was arbitrary and the objective was to show it off centre in the chuck then use the tool to bring the centre punch mark into alignment, which I did. This is what the tool is designed for. If I wanted to bring the block into alignment I would had used a dial indicator on each of the four sided to ensure that the block was centred. In this case it was the centre punch mark that I aligned not the block. Again, thanks for the comment and the opportunity for me to clarify for you. I was not as clear as I could have been in the video. Cheers.
@@theoutbackshed One of the problems with being old and retired is having way too much free time. All the free time equates to dissecting, bisecting, scrutinizing and criticizing TH-cam videos. Reading back on my original comments I can see where others may see me as a 14 caret ball buster. Sorry for that. I think I went off the tracks do to the very brief segment showing your project in use. Here's another video that focuses more on the concept. It helped me to see the value a placing a point of the stock on center rather than center of the stock. th-cam.com/video/c0EMqgyqXAY/w-d-xo.html Thank you for responding to me and good luck with your channel. I subscribed! Wakodahatchee Chris
![ได้เวลา! พาน้องแฝดฉีดวัคซีนครบ 1 เดือน🫣 [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.52 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IzeLtaXBLNE/mqdefault.jpg)
👍 nice work!
Beautiful lathe!
Take note everyone, that is what your lathe should look like after 40 years of use.
Thanks for the comment and compliment.
Bs, l Saw a spec of dirt or something.
I've never seen a wiggler bar that is not telescopic with a spring to take up the decreasing length as it starts to run true.
I was going say the same thing.
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I was beginning to think was the only one that remembered locking the tailstock & clicking the wiggle bar in. The spring kept it held between the centres and there was no need to accurately set the load with the tailstock. Too much load from the tailstock made the bar bend, too little and it rattled about.
@@machinists-shortcuts precisely so.
Wow, I can’t believe that lathe is 49 years old.. it looks like it was just Un-crated and assembled ! Amazing caretaker you are !
Thank you.
Sorry I do not believe the lathe is that old and has been in use.
Thanks for the comments, the lathe was built in 1981, I purchased it new in 1984 (as per a previous comment). it was 10 years preserved and unused during the family and work thing but always looked after and covered when not in use. Hope this clarifies. I'll do a video shortly for a maintenance day on that lathe, I'll go into more details of its past (with photos) then.
Is this your first post? Looks pretty good content mate.
Thanks mate
nice vid format for a first !
keep them coming please.
cheers ben.
Thanks for the comment, there's more to come
Take an old welding rod, grind to a point, hold in a drill chuck place dial gauge against it VIOLA.
That would work.
Compliment on keeping your machine in pristine condition.
Thanks for the comment and the compliment.
Cheers SteveO
Excellent video. I did notice three things:
1. You are meticulous with your lathe and equipment.
2. You are a highly skilled worker who takes pride in his work.
3. You made a safety breach by removing swarf from the workpiece with your bare hands while the spindle is rotating! Never do this. I have seen very bad injuries resulting from this practice.
Thank you on all points. I shall take note of point 3 and do better in future. Thank you for picking this up.
I've always been curious about how the knurling wheels directly effects the work-piece. So many people say it doesn't matter; just do it. This is the first channel that I know of who talked about it with a 'proof-of-concept'. Maybe there are others that I just don't know about. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to more content.
Thanks for the comment, many more projects to come.
I believe it was Tom Lipton that disproved the need for specific diameters when knurling, it being a swaging process. On the other hand when cut knurling, the OD being correct is vital for a gòod knurl as the process is more like gear cutting.
I haven't seen a video from Tom Lipton on knurling but I will go on a search for one, thanks.
@@theoutbackshed it was a long time ago, but I'm pretty sure it was him although, like a wise man, I am prepared to be wrong.😉
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I think Mr. Pete even mentioned that specific diameters aren't needed, but I've always thought there was more to it. Like you mentioned, similar to gear cutting.
Great video. I liked how you took us all on a journey of creating something useful.
Thanks for the comment, great to have you aboard.
what a wonderful workshop!
Thank you.
Great job mate
Thanks
Thanks for idea. I’ll be making one. My first video I’ve seen of yours and you have definitely earned a new subscriber 👍👍😎👍👍
Welcome aboard and thanks for the coment . More builds to come.
My first video of yours. It definitely impressed me! I’ll be around for a while. Thank you for the education.
Thanks for the comment and welcome aboard.
love it, good work!
Thanks
Good job 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks 😅
You have a great channel, I like how you explain what you are doing.
Glad you enjoy it
nice work and a very useful and good looking tool 😁👍
Thank you
Brilliant !. Love to see a video about keeping the lathe clean.
Thanks, much appreciated.
I have thought about this problem too. How about just drilling a centre hole in the block and then bring the dead centre in the tailstock up to it to 'lock' the block in place. Then tighten the chuck jaws in as needed?
I have never seen That kind of knurling before
Hi, thanks for the comment. That's the way I have always done it, much better method than the old push knurling. Far less stressful on the machine and tooling.
Just found your channel. Didn't take long to subscribe. Look forward to more visits. Cheers and good work from another Aussie who loves his shed.
Thanks ad welcome aboard!
Threaded the block and attached a ground tube by a screw. ( Boring button).Set it central using slip guages. Put in the chuck and clocked. That how we were taught as apprentice. I do it the easy way with a pointy thing like you these days
I remember doing it that way too. Would be too time consuming nowadays though.
Your lathe looks more-or-less brand new, you clearly look after your machines - Subscribed.
Thank you and welcome aboard.
I like it 👍👍
Thank you, I appreciate the comments.
This would have to be the most flash wobble stick I have ever seen. I'm a retired tool maker and I have always used a piece of 10g wire 12" long, sharpened to a point for the centre dot and to accomodate the dial gauge I just flattened a section of the wire just back from the point, on the anvil. Hold the other end of the wire in the tailstock chuck and that's all you need. 😁
I used similar, but 2mm piano wire with a ground divot together with a 0.001mm./div dial test indicator. That bit extra stiffness at the point has made the difference.
Trained and used to work as an instrument maker, so precision could at times be enough to require parts (and measurement equipment) to "settle" before measurements where made.
I agree with you, that would work too. The objective I put up is to take on a lathe project (mostly for beginners) that encompasses many features of the lathe, and you get a dedicated tool at the end of the project.
If the end use will allow it, 416 free machining stainless steel works a treat in the home shop. Not cheap, a 25.4mm x 300mm ground finished rod is about $60. The ease of turning and drilling on smaller machines makes it worth the price.
Thanks for the comment, I think that 416 has a higher nickel content making it more corrosion resistant, I will see if I can find some and try it out. Thanks for the advice and welcome aboard.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Handy tool, nicely made. It was good to see a knurling tool used properly. After 50+ years as a mechanical engineer I've seen some ridiculous attempts to use various knurling tools which led to chewed up knurls and even tool breakage. It was also good to see you taking good care of your machine and equipment. Good post, first time here, but not last 👍
Welcome aboard and thanks for the comments.
I absolutely love machining 304, it finishes so beautifully with no need to file,polish, or sand.
It doesn’t like fine or light cuts so much but it looks so good when you hit the correct speeds and feeds with a good quality insert.
This is the first time I’ve seen your channel and I can already tell I’m going fit right in here. I’m not into woodworking but I love manual machining and learning !
Welcome aboard and thanks for the comment. plenty more to come.
Just came across your channel and subscribed. Nice work I can relate to with my channel.
Awesome! Thank you!
I dont see how this would be more accurate than just using a dead center but hey there more than one way to skin a cat! Nice lathe too!!!
Thanks for the comment. I think you're right. No more accurate, just a tool dedicated for this job and an opportunity to explore different processes on the lathe.
These are great projects, another option for them to be strong and last a long time: Ream a 6mm hole in one end and shrink fit in a broken 6mm carbide endmill. You will need a tool and cutter grinder though to get the point.
Thanks, that's a great idea. I'll have a think about that.
Only took me right till then to understand what you were making. Very cool :)
Thanks for the like.
I'm guessing Ur a tafe teacher and not an actual fitter and turner
No, not a teacher, just a hobbyist.
Great project mate! i like your job
Glad you enjoy it! Cheers
The 4 jaw vid got a fresh sub for you👍👌🇦🇺
Thanks and welcome aboard.
You'll have to excuse me for not getting it. I saw you make many measurements that seemed irrelevant to me. When it came time for a measurement that was CRITICAL it was glaringly absent. I'm talking about the square stock you center punched at the end. That segment was sadly absent of any critical measurement. I did not see you blue that block and carefully mark the center before center punching it. I saw you willy nilly center punch it by eye. This in no way guaranteed it was on center. If I missed something I apologize but I did back it up a number of times just to be sure!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Hi Chris, and welcome to the Channel. Thanks for the question. The square stock at the end of the video was never intended to be trued square. The centre punch mark was arbitrary and the objective was to show it off centre in the chuck then use the tool to bring the centre punch mark into alignment, which I did. This is what the tool is designed for. If I wanted to bring the block into alignment I would had used a dial indicator on each of the four sided to ensure that the block was centred. In this case it was the centre punch mark that I aligned not the block. Again, thanks for the comment and the opportunity for me to clarify for you. I was not as clear as I could have been in the video. Cheers.
@@theoutbackshed One of the problems with being old and retired is having way too much free time. All the free time equates to dissecting, bisecting, scrutinizing and criticizing TH-cam videos. Reading back on my original comments I can see where others may see me as a 14 caret ball buster. Sorry for that. I think I went off the tracks do to the very brief segment showing your project in use. Here's another video that focuses more on the concept. It helped me to see the value a placing a point of the stock on center rather than center of the stock. th-cam.com/video/c0EMqgyqXAY/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for responding to me and good luck with your channel. I subscribed!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Hi Chris, good to have you on board. Cheers.
@@cdrive5757 I'm one of the other readers & I didn't see you as a ball buster.
You had a question & a right to ask.
Really do you think any of us want to watch you lub your lathe bye
🤣 no doubt.
Hi
Great vidéo.
What is your Brand lathe ?
HI, thanks for the comment. It's a Colchester Colt 2000. 13"x40". Made 1981, purchased new in 1984. It's in original condition.
@@theoutbackshed thanks
nice lathe
Thank you