A Lathe Chuck Worth A Whole Machine | Installing A Quick Collet Chuck On The Mini Lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- A while ago I found a beautiful hand lever operated quick collet chuck on the used marked and had to buy it. Even if this chuck cost me as much as I payed for the whole lathe a few years ago.
This chuck from the German manufacturer NANN allows to clamp or unclamp the workpiece while the machine is still running. That is a very special and handy feature.
When I got the chuck it seemed to be absolutely unused. However I first had to find out how it works. There was absolutely no movement in the chuck. I figured out that the chuck was totally stuck and glued together with old grease and gunk. I had to disassemble everything and carefully clean all the parts. But the inner sleeve which clamps the collet remained extremely tight and didn't allow the chuck to work probably. The reason for the too tight fit remained unclear but I had to relap the inner diameter on the chuck body so that the inner sleeve moves freely again. With this fixed and the chuck ready to work again, I had to make an adapting flanch to fit the chuck to my machine. In addition to that I had to make a bracket which holds the clamping hand lever.
After all this is done I have a very nice new accessory to my Mini Lathe machine.
I hope you enjoy this video.
Let me know what you think in the comments.
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That is a nice looking chuck. One note, WD 40 isn't the best choice as a lubricant, it dries and gets sticky. It is intended to prevent surface corrosion (Water Displacer) just a light machine oil or assembly lube would be better practice.
Thanks for your comment and the hint on the lubricant. Perhaps I will fill a little bit of way oil in.
Hydraulic oil also works. Non detergent.
Wd40 and the word oil should never be used together. Wd40 us a water displacement liquid or wikd cleaner, no lubrication function at all
Not to pile on but I was going to say this very thing. I am even questions the use of grease in this case. With the very close tolerances on these parts a very thin oil would be my choice. An oil such as those made for air tools would work or even sewing machine oil.
Overall this is a great build.
Agree with all this. It's also a poor disassembly lubricant. I use quite a bit of WD40 as a cheap cleaner, and as a water displacer, but never as a lubricant of any sort.
in the old days, we used to joke:
how do you double the value of Skoda?
answer - fill it up with petrol 😛😜
well, now we have the answer, to a question:
how do you triple the value of "mini lathe"
answer - add fancy collet chuck 😇👍
well done and enjoy it!
thank you for your videos
Haha :D Thank you very much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that. Happy to hear, you enjoyed my work.
Very interesting project. Well edited and narrated. Does not need any music.
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! I really do appreciate that!
Not only does not need any music, adding music would give no benefit, and would just be a detriment
Great video, very entertaining. "Better to have one than to need one!" is a great motto to live by! 🙂
:D Thank you very much;)
it really isn't imo. that's why we are all hoarding stuff we will never need...
@@ChriFux Not just hoarding but buying more 😁
I had the pleasure to work on a WEILER lathe about 10 years ago where this exact quick collet chuck was mounted. amazing.
Hi and thanks for your comment! That's a cool story, Weiler is a different story ;) Congrats! :)
A friend gave me a similar English made lever operated collet chuck and like yours it was stuck solid with old oil/ grease but once cleaned it looked like it had never been used in its 50 or 60 years of life. Seeing your video reminds me i should modify the D1-4 fitting so it will fit my D1-3 lathe, its about time i used it before the grease goes solid again.😉
If your english made collet chuck uses collets that have several individual gripping fingers/blades and hair springs then it will most likely be a Burnerd Multisize chuck and collet set. I have one of these Burnerd Multisize lever chucks and collet set for my Harrison 12 inch swing lathe and it is highly accurate and grips a wide range of diameters.
@@howardosborne8647 it is indeed, and before you mention it, it was indeed a very generous gift.
Nice project. Impressed with the sketchy set up for cutting the arc in the part.
Thanks! That went surprisingly well... :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetterFrequently said by surgeons after reattaching fingers... I kid, though. I was really impressed, too!
Molto bravo nelle lavorazioni, è stato piacevole vedere tutto quello che hai fatto, il video è chiaro e si capisce tutto, grazie di avere documentato tutto in questo modo
Thank you, always enjoy watching you work on the lathe. I had one of those machines and hated it up to the day I sold it. The first repair was to the carriage bars, the cheap iron bars broke in the middle of adjusting them so the first fix was bronze bars and it never ceased tormenting me until I sold it.
As 66 said. The reason it was probably frozen solid is someone used WD-40 for the sliding surfaces as you did.
WD-40 is a water dispersion solution. It’s great for turning aluminum but once the solvent dissipates the waxy residue is like glue. If you want to ruin a lock, use WD-40.
Well done on the chuck. Beautiful job
This is a nice addition to your workholding options on the mini lathe. I have the much larger version of this type of lever chuck which is made by Burnerd and uses collets with hardened spring loaded gripping blades. They are known as Burnerd Multisize collets and run with a very high degree of concentricity.
As others have said WD40 is a poor choice of lubricant as it thickens and turns into a gummy shellac like substance. Light machine oil is far better for these purposes.....great video 👌
I used one of those chucks on my first few weeks operating a lathe. Being a Turret lather the still moving feature was quite useful.
Nice job on the adapter plate. Exactly as it should be done
Thank you very much for your kind comment and feedback!
31:35 Correct closing of the collet occurs when the movable sleeve moves to the right to the edge of the collet nut. You need to unscrew the collet nut a few clicks until you can slide the outer sleeve all the way to the right. In the position in which you show at 31:35 the cartridge is not completely closed and can open randomly!
That's interesting. I was wondering how far the handle should be pushed to the right. What does all the way to the right mean? How do you know when the handle is in the clamped position?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Unscrew the nut until the handle moves to the extreme right position. In this case, tension will be felt when clamping the part. You disassembled the cartridge. Inside the movable movable sleeve there is a cone that presses the balls, and after it there is a cylinder that should hold these balls. In the position shown in the video, the balls are pressed against the cones, and not against the cylinder of the sleeve.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
I have never used that brand but the quick acting collet chunks I have used would go over center when adjusted correctly. You could feel when it happened.
That collet setup is great for a few reasons, the two reasons you speak about, precision, ease of use with the machine spinning, the last is with a stop set, closing it does not move the part in the z. Hardinge used a similar setup on their machines, with the handle in the back. I looked up the unit finding Simon Nann GmbH & Co. KG (EN) has these. P/N SSF 16 Z. Thank you for the video, very kick ass setup for a small lathe, great work. Cheers to you.
Nice work! You really do “do that better!” Lol 👍🍻
Thank you very much!
Very nice job and excellent description. Thank you.
Das ist jetzt aber ganz klar eher "nice to have" als "must have", stimmt's? 🙂 Ich find das schon so genial, daß hier mal jemand die Späne absaugt, statt sie mit Druckluft in jede Ritze zu blasen. Gut gemacht, gut gefilmt!
Hehe, vielen Dank! Freut mich, danke für die Rückmeldung :) Und ja, das ist reiner Luxus das Teil. Konnte halt nicht widerstehen... :)
Very nice addition to the mini! Thanks for posting something I did not know existed! Take care!
Thank you very much! :)
Wow, I have one of these Quick Collet Chucks with collets in a box in my shop. I got it on a pallet load of miscellaneous tools at an auction. It was buried so deep I had no idea it was even there till I sorted the whole lot. I figured it was some type of quick change collet chuck but I had never seen one like it. Until this video I had no idea exactly how to use it, let alone how to mount it or disassemble for cleaning. Thank You this is a very useful video! And Yes WD40 is good for a lot of things but NOT long-term lubrication.
Excellent work.Thank you.
Thanks!
Brother you are a genius
Now the little lathe needs an auto bar feed!
Hehe, and mass production can start :)
Congrats for the video. I had no idea how one of these works inside, and I had some over complicated ideas to build one myself. Thanks for calming me down, I’l check if I can get a good deal on one that I’ve found.
Same brand but for 173E collets.
Cheers!
You know this would be very handy for trimming bullet jackets or copper tubing to same length. I wasn't aware such chucks existed but you could use a wooden dowel to insert and remove.
Very nicely done!
Thanks!
sweet setup!
Yes, thanks!
Great job on the work and the video!
Thank you very much!
Wieder mal ein sehr tolles Video,und was du alles mit deiner
Mini -Drehmaschine machst und anfertigst ist echt der Hammer 👍bitte weiter solche Videos 👏
Vielen Dank für deinen netten Kommentar! Freut mich, dass dir meine Videos gefallen :)!
very nice, if you make a bar feeder and a turret you will end up with a very nice setup for production work, i bought the downriver tools turret plans for the mini lathe and is in my todo list of projects and trying to do a collet chuck like this one would be another fun one.
Super Arbeit!
Da ist das Futter ja an den richtigen geraten 👍
Das ist ja klasse! Vielen Dank! Bin sehr zufrieden, wie das Futter jetzt läuft :)
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for your comment! :)
I like it! I find it extremely useful to be able to change parts while running.
Thank you very much! Yes, that's a pretty cool feature:)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I have a 5c collet closer that I can do that with but it is a pull through the spindle type and it pulls the part inwards as it's clamped. The problem is that if the stock varies -.001" the collet has to pull in .005 further, that makes holding accurate length difficult. Yours won't do that, the length won't vary.
in collet machines for watch purposes, the lever is at the back, and the thread for fastening the collets is located on the collet itself, to change the collet you just need to turn on the revolutions, grab the part rotating from behind with your hand, the collet will unscrew itself, insert a new one, turn on direct revolutions, and it tightens. the rear lever (located behind the tailstock) is very convenient. since nothing is stopping you from removing the parts from the collet. + nothing sticks out from the front of the machine, everything that rotates is recessed inside, very safe. to understand what I mean, look at the Schaublin 125 machine
спасибо вам . очень интересная штука
Wow, you can crank out the parts with that. We had "rates" at the caulking gun factory I worked at. My favorite machine was the cap knurler with a rate of 300 per hour. The machine spins a 2" pin. You put on a cap, give it a shot of cutting oil, run the knurler into it, and take the cap off while it's spinning. Could do 600 an hour but the machine broke down. The caps were threaded for the barrel ends.
nice job!
Thanks!
This lever operated chuck was made by EMCO in Austria. I have it and are going to mount it on my V10p. Only need to make a backplate.
I won’t lie, your voice is sooo smooth and mesmerising! I wish you had narrated all of your videos! Great video!
I'm humbled! Thank you very much;)
For removing and installing the collets. Make a handle with 3 tabs on the end that go into the slots in the face of the collet.
Good idea, thanks!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
You can buy them for 5C collets I have never looked for others.
But it would make a good video anyways.
I want to see your daily work in the shop. Can you make some kind of vlog style video about this?
Klasse Arbeit wie immer. Aber bitte lass die Finger von dem mistigen WD40. Habs dir schonmal geschrieben: Hol dir Mannol 9932 Rust Dissolver. Das ist das Mittel der Wahl zum lösen und reinigen. 40 nehm ich nur zum reinigen von meiner mini Werkbank mit der Resopal-Oberfläche. Ansonsten, Video top.
Hi, vielen Dank für den Kommentar! Und danke nochmal für den Tipp mit dem Öl. Muss mir mal eine Dose Mannol zulegen :)
man, i am really envious of your chuck... which is strange because i don't own a lathe.
:D Thanks ;)
Nice!
Thank you very much!
Excelent stuff🙏 You are what i call "Puritane" (Perfectiinist).. I wish i could donate some high end Japanese Stones to achieve beautiful uniform finishes (Near mirror witch keep everything oxidation free) Great Work🙏❤
I’d recommend some lithium grease or boelube, boelube is traditionally a cutting grease but it works wonders in other applications, a little heat makes it flow like wd 40 and at room temp it’s like lithium grease. If you want to make your own grease compound, mix some very very fine graphite or graphene powder with the grease of your choice. Adding graphite or graphene increases the lifespan of the grease among other things. Also if the grease dries up it makes separation a lot easier as it acts as a dry lube.
I'm always excited to see a new video. Your projects that you show come out very clean, accurate, and professional looking. I have scoured all of your videos, but I seem to have missed what brand your lathe and milling machine are. I think the mill is a Praxon, but I don't even have a guess as to the lathe? Hope you see this comment and can answer it. Thank you for another excellent video, and I look forward to the next.
👍Kolejny ciekawy film. Pozdrowienia z Polski
Very cool! Why are you using such a small endmill for face milling a roughly 5 times bigger surface?
👍Отличная вещь.
Um das Problem mit dem nicht laufenden 3-Backenfutter zu lösen, solltest du zunächst die Durchmesser überprüfen, an denen das Futter befestigt ist. Es scheint, dass dort zu viel Spiel vorhanden ist. Normalerweise ist ein 3-Backenfutter sehr präzise in der Wiederholgenauigkeit, es sei denn, der Spiralring ist stark abgenutzt, was in deinem Fall wahrscheinlich nicht zutrifft. Wenn die Befestigung am Futter und an der Maschine spielfrei ist, könnte es auch helfen, die Backen auszudrehen.
I have the larger version of this speed chuck (up to 42mm) but I hardly ever use it while running. But these chucks are so accurate that I suggest that you make a new adapter plate with no runout. My chuck has no runout, and I also made my own adapter plate.
Thanks for your comment! I have to see. I found a position in which it runs pretty true. I guess that is accurate enough.
@@WeCanDoThatBetterYou can do that better!
I wonder if an ultrasonic cleaner w/ some degreaser would have free'd up the stuck parts for initial disassembly.
Very nice! I'm gonna "need" one now. 😬😅
Did you "undercut" the corner of the backplate you made? That could be the source of the runout.
That is a good question. Normally I will do but I have to check that:) Thanks for your kind comment!
Seems like bumping this chuck would be a common problem. Probably best to put the handle vertical.
Nice to do a CNC Lathe with automatic feeder.
I do love you channel, and you get SO much right and great advice, just pretty please stop referring to WD40 as oil... or in fact using it in place of oil on assemblies. That is exactly what it is not. It's an oil/water displacer, and completely evaporates after a while, leaving nothing oil like behind. Adding it in place of an actual oil is no better than having nothing there.
A google search on the topic will educate you a lot better than i can, it's commonly misused and misdescribed by a great many mechanics and engineers who just repeat what they've heard, so I don't blame you lol :)
Hi, Nice work man i enjoy your idea, how many watt your milling machine !
Is the hole in chuck pivot bolt to oil the bronze part?
'Better to have it rather than need it' Please explain that to 'Er Indoors ;)
I have one for my Emco V10, seemed like a good idea at the time but I have never used it so I suspect you wont either :)
Time will tell:) But yes, it is a rather special chuck.
One quick safety note with the vacuum cleaner. Picking up machining chips, it is best not to mix aluminum and iron in the same bag. Chips probably will not be a problem but mixed sanding dust is essentially thermite. A hot spark might make for a very bad day.
@danal You can't be serious. Thermite contains iron oxide not plain iron. And you would fine particles, not shavings.
It's hard enough to make and ignite thermite deliberately. By accident is impossible
INfo: Leg dir eine Schaublin 102 zu das macht vieles noch einfacher bei Kleinseriearbeit.
Hehe, wenn das video viral geht, kann ich vllt drüber nachdenken ;) Kein Geld für eine Schaublin. Eine kleine CNC wäre mir auch fast lieber, die arbeitet dann ganz allein :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Hier bei mir kostet das Bett mit Spindel um die 500 CHF. Werkzeugrevolver um die 300.
Motor 50 FU 50.-
Also mit etwa 900Chf biste am Start. Ja das dachte ich auch schon 😅 Cnc summt vor sich hin und ich koch Kaffe auf.
Welche nleine Cnc fällt Dir denn ein?
Do you worry at all about mixing aluminum and steel parts for galvanic corrosion? Or does the blue on the steel fix that problem?
I couldn't stop fixating on the blood drop on your finger 20min in. Did you survive?
finally a dude that seems like he knows what he know and what he dont know. rare these days. heyo dude, whats your opinion on WD-40? i avoid using it because someone gave me the impression that it can damage the metal aswell. I never found evidence of that and no real info on the internet, but i still use ballistol instead just to be sure
@11:45 nice
Very Nice! WD-40 is not a very good lubricant. It is basically a solvent. You may want something slipperier on the brass ring.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I will use something else. Many have said that :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetterIf i could recommend: Graphene Lubricant is best.. Frictionless 👍🙏
How did you get the headstock plate to accept the chuck adapter plate when the through holes impinged on the inner diameter?
The screws which hold the chuck on the plate are so short that they don't interfere with the spindle nose.
How many weeks of work was this video?
at 14:05 I see the retaiing pins are drilled in your 4-jaw. Did you do that or did it come like that? Are they hardened?
Why didn't you heat the body to get the inner sleeve out?
I hesitated to use too much heat to not destroy anything or get some discolorations or toxic grease smoke or whatever. Thought the 40 degree from the heater would help but that was not enough. I think in the end I got the sleeve out without any damage to the rest of the chuck.
Dear god what have you done 😂
Haha :D Just couldn't resist... ;)
😂😂😂
Класс!!!
wooooooooooo nice.
⭐🙂👍
just keep them clean
WD40 is not a long term lubricant. It's made mostly out of petroleum. Better to use 3:1 or any other thin oil.
Yes, thanks. I will keep that in mind.
That lathe is now better then a schaublin i am telling you my friend .
:D Haha, I'm getting close ;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter what else is there to be added? a dro?
Super Video - ein kleiner ungefragter Tipp von meiner Seite - Für meinen Geschmack sind deine Videos immer überbelichtet, du hast viele Weißstellen (Das "blendet" vor allem bei Metall und man kann teilweise das finish der Teile nicht richtig erkennen). Ist durchaus eine Frage des Geschmacks und es ist auch nicht immer so einfach das richtig geregelt zu bekommen. Inhaltlich mal wieder sehr unterhaltsam. Beste Grüße
WD 40 is not a good choice for that application. Actually, it not really good at much. There is a product called G96 its marketed as a gun cleaner, it is an amazing penetrating lubricant and rust protection, and because it is such a good penetrate it cleans up greasy parts like a dream, even that annoying cosmlene stuff.
As a side its rust protection is pretty crazy, i have a gun in the corner of my room that i last cleaned about 8yrs ago and still not a spec of rust on it (i haven't shot it in years).
WD40 is NOT a lubricant. You are going to wear those bronze bearings down in no time at all. Use a light spindle oil instead. Mobil Velocite No.6 is probably a good choice.
Get yourself some Balistol...
You have a runout because the diameter you machined for the collet chuck is not precise. You should've done a 0.01 interference fit.
I don't think an interference fit is the right choice for a chuck spindle nose connection.
'Promo SM'
WD-40 und Fett sind keine freunde besser einfaches Maschinenöl oder Bettbahn Öl nehmen bei Minute 19:50. WD-40 ist halt ein sehr starker Fettlöser, das Fett fliest dir bei hohen Drehzahlen aus dem Futter raus. Grüße
im englischen heißt es nicht power sondern force
Ups, danke :)
Purchase some penetrating oil.
I normally use PB Blaster brand.
WD40 is not a lubricant. Please read their website.
Thanks for the hint!
It is still not that trivial? Hmm…
That makes no sense?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter You said it. It made no sense to me either.
🫡
Is that a good sign? ;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter yes 🙌. Great work in my opinion! Keep on being awesome 😎
Bolt the lathe DOWN PERIOD. All machines get bolted down securely always
Beautiful chuck but ohhh no no no sir i cant sit idly buy and let u use that piece of tech like that... wd 40 is not lubricant get yourself some propper lubricant!!! Pllzzz!!
Thanks for your comment! I swear not to use WD40 again for such a usecase ;) Have to order a proper oil.
Shouldn't there be a safety latch which would prevent accidentally loosening the chuck? I mean, if you unintentionally knock on the handle while the machine is running, the chuck will open and your work will be ruined, maybe even worse. Accidents can happen. It certainly does not seem like it is up to today's work safety standards.
Warum sagst Du Aluminum? Nur weil die Amis es falsch sagen, musst du es doch nicht auch tun. Im britischen Englisch heißt es auch Aluminium.
Danke für den Hinweis.
Please never use WD-40 as a lubricant. It is not. WD-40 is a derusting, loosing and water dismissive Medium and when you try using it as a lubricant your parts will get scratches which is really bad when you try to get good tolerances. You can use WD-40 as a medium for grinding because it is quite abrasive.
Water Dispenser - 40