True that. Crap Chinesium, we are letting ourselves be played. Fixing their damn crap instead of building things properly ourselves from the ground up. I hate to see this. We have no pride anymore. And with all the people worked up about climate change and whatnot Chinese factories are churning out tens of thousands of these, all coal fired and with poor treatment of employees. Fucked up world.
What a wonderful story before going to bed. And now I'm dreaming of giving my new little lathe such the same devoted attention. Oh, how I feel, turning this butter-soft crank. Very nice work. Every second is a joy. Keep it up.
Great video, great build. The idea to install socket head cap screws that you turned the head down to allow placement in the end of shaft so you could access with an allen wrench was great idea. Looking forward to your next video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your comment! Happy to hear, you like my work. Until I make a rotary broaching tool for internal hexes, I have to go with the screw method ;)
I am very happy having watched this video. Now I know i am not the only one who forget the locking pin in the proxxon machine. Sonce great work as usual.
it's better than net, it's an outstanding achievement. Congrats. Thanks for sharing your expertise, it gave me a few ideas for improving the cross slide of my old DIXI lathe from the 1940's which is somehow worn out.
Das mit den Lagern ist ein Grund für mich, immer Lager von SKF zu kaufen. Die sind zwar teuer, aber wirklich gute Qualität. Industriestandard. Da liegst du immer innerhalb einiger Tausendstel Millimeter. Beim Gewindeschneiden, auch bei Trapezgewinden immer Schneidöl nutzen. Der Unterschied zu normalem Öl ist wirklich spürbar. Rändeln immer mit langsamer Drehzahl (zwischen 150 und 300/min) und auch hier immer Schneidöl nutzen. Du könntest versuchen mittels Stift und Nut deine verstellbare Mutter über eine Feder quasi wartungsfrei zu machen. Die Feder drückt beide Muttern auseinander, sodass du immer spielfrei bist. Kenne ich von einigen Herstellern von Drehmaschinen. Kannst du ebenfalls am Planschlitten machen. Nur ein paar kleine Tipps von nem Mechaniker mit knapp über 35 Jahren Berufserfahrung. 😊 Ach ja... Dein Kanal gefällt mir, habe ein Abo dagelassen. 👍
Es hat mir auch schon Überwindung gekostet für ein kurzes Sackloch einen Gewindebohrer abzuschneiden. Aber manchmal geht es nicht anders um zum Ziel zu kommen. Ich bin sehr erfreut über ihre gute Ausführung der Arbeiten. Bei mir steht das auch noch an und man kann sich Ideen abschauen. Danke
Danke für deinen netten Kommentar! Ja, ein bisschen tut es weh, wenn man den schönen Gewindebohrer "zerstört" für nur ein Loch, aber soo teuer sind sie ja zum Glück nicht, insofern wars mir das wert :) Der Anschnitt ist sonst doch recht lange.
I love these longer videos, the longer the better! Great video as always. 👍👍 I am dumbfounded that the tolerances on the internal races of those angular contact bearings could vary that much. The manufacturer sure as hell dropped the ball on those bearings.
Excellent video,, and a great modification ! The usual original mini-lathe compound slides are a pain-in-the-butt. Your modification improves your compound dramatically. Great job. Thanks for the superb video and all the work you put into it.
An incredible build! Its so good to see how the quality and precision of your work has increased over the years and the amazing result speaks for itself. Thank you for sharing and happy machining.
I like the hex in the end of the spindle as you can now power feed the compound slide to get a nice finish on taper turning by using a ball end key in a cordless drill which will give you variable feed speeds. the back lash adjustmend is very good too.
This is quite excellent! Congratulations on a magnificent rebuild. Your hex key modification also affords you the opportunity to achieve some very nice surface finish on tapered parts.
Thanks for your comment! I rather think they are just cheap ;) (which they were..). And yes, I think for brass a rather negative cutting angle would be better but it worked anyway.
Your work is incredible, and I also enjoyed the longer, narrated format here. It would be really great if you had plans to share for your mini lathe upgrades, too! Especially the compound and cross slide improvements you've made.
Thank you very much for your comment and kind feedback! I really do appreciate that. The thing with the plans is, that I have no CAD program at the time which allows me to offer the plans to the public. I'm on the look for a fix here.
If you use a ground shaft or the workpiece before turning you can use the DTI to dial in the tail stock. It’s easier than tuning out the taper after it’s cut
you can also use that hex key on the back of the slide spindle to drive it under power when makilng a taper! i see a lot of people make up a jig for their power drill to spin the handle, but this seems much more elegant.
For when you remove the handle, a thumb screw with internal hex driver that aesthetically fits the other knurled surfaces would really finish it off. You could still retain an internal hex on the outside of the thumbscrew, incase you need extra torque during machining but I doubt you'd end up needing it that often
Press fits on bearings and races can be used to adjust ball clearances by elastic deformation. I discovered this by inadvertently ruining a ball bearing by pressing it on a solid shaft that was a touch oversized.
Дружище, при регулировке задней бабки обрабатывая до кулачков, используй безотказную формулу. Диаметр больший минус диаметр меньший разделить на две длины. Получишь величину смещения задней бабки. Сместив её с помощью индикатора не меняя положения и желательно не трогая фиксатор пиноли,получишь снайперский выстрел. Если обработка ведётся не на всю длину то формула немного меняется. Точно не помню но по моему вместо длины нужно подставить разницу длин. Но первой формулой пользовался неоднократно. Работает как часы.
For clarity, if using standard threads: acme for Imperial/US threads (29 degree included angle), trapezoidal for Metric threads (30 degree inc. angle.).
Oh thanks for your feedback and the hint on the threads. I didn't know that. So for me (in the metric world) it should be always be called "trapazoidal" :) Thanks ;)
35:41 maybe cut off the ball the screw sits in on the turning handle and make a screw with a ball head, so you don’t need a tool to fix the handle but instead fix it by hand with a knurled screw / Rändelschraube. Awesome work by the way, you inspired me to get my first lathe! :)
I had an emco compact 5 mini lathe. Well, rather a micromill. Was really well machined, but it had basically no power at all. Also, the parts that weren't well thought outweren'tt easily upgradeable, like with the chinese lathes. The thread for the cross slide was basically just a regular metric M8 thread that was cut directly into the cast aluminum part that was the body of it. The tight tolerances on the bed and spindle didnt do anything for you if you have half a mm of backlash and the crossslide is so light that any machining work would move the slide to any position along these 0.5mm. Parting off a part was barely possible with aluminum and not possible at all with any other material. Changing the rpm of the motor basically meant you had to unscrew the motor. That took 15minutes every time you did it. Thats why I sold it a year ago. Im trying to save up for a bernardo 400V with dro. Its only 1400 bugs. As far as I've seen very moddable.
For future reference: your machining and cutting that acme thread on the brass parts caused the metal to work harden, to resolve the "crunchiness" you need to heat treat the brass to remove the hardening... Also, I would suggest cutting the thread before machining the rest of since a fair chunk of that first part looked VERY thin and I was afraid it would snap off while trying to cut that thread. It could also allow you to hold it on some of the acme rod to keep the thread centered on the parts 😉 I like your making a bottoming tap as they're called, but that blueing had me concerned the temper on that tool was damaged, which isn't a concern for soft materials like brass etc, but could be a problem if you wish to use it for steel... if necessary, that could be easily resolved with a little heat treating Other than that observation, FANTASTIC JOB!
Hi. Gute Idee mit Luftfreier Mutter. Die Lösung kannte ich noch erlich gesagt nicht. Eigene Entwicklung oder wo gesehen? Wenn selbst ausgedacht, dann Respekt, echt super Idee. Die muss ich mir unbedingt merken. Es gibt nicht so viele Möglichkeiten von Luftfreier Mutter, vor allem wenn der Platz zum einbauen sehr knapp ist. Bei deiner Idee braucht die am wenigsten Platz. Wie gesagt, tolle Idee und wie immer saubere und präzise Arbeit. Alles gute und bleib gesund.👋👍
Excellent work as usual. I think you meant leadscrew when you say spindle. I'm looking forward to the video where you ditch the compound slide and replace it with a solid tool post mount 😂
Thanks my friend! And thanks for the hint on lead screw vs spindle :) I'm not yet in the solid toolpost party :) Perhaps some day I will try but for now I like my compound slide :)
Just a mildly pedantic observation - @0:35, that is not a spindle, it is a lead, or feed, screw. A spindle's primary function is to... spin. Whereas, a lead screw's primary function is to... um... "lead" (ie, move) something... :) Pedantary aside, awesome upgrade!
4:23 Hast du hier nach dem umspannen nicht die Konzentrizität verloren??? Du hättest nach dem Aufkleben des Endstückes das Endstück erst konzentrisch drehen müssen zum Trapezgewinde und dann erst umspannen auf das aufgeklebte Endstück.
Gut beobachtet! Tatsächlich hatte ich darauf nicht geachtet. Ich bin davon ausgegangen, dass der Rundlauf des Spannzangenfutters genau genug ist, damit ich beim Umspannen nicht zu viel Genauigkeit verliere. Ehrlich gesagt, hatte ich einfach darauf vertraut :) Optimalerweise hätte man erst das anzusetzende Stück fertigen müssen, dann im Spannzangenfutter den Zapfen an der Spindel drehen und ohne Umspannen das vorher gefertigte Wellenstück ansetzen.
Erstklassige Arbeit. Gut, das du bis zum Ende durchgezogen hast. War ein ganz schöner Aufwand. Beim schneiden von Gewinden in Messing hilft ein MoS2 Fett. Reduziert zumindest dieses üble ruckeln etwas. Ich nehm da Mannol 8107. Hast du wieder gut hinbekommen
Hi and thanks! That's a good point. I think about this but I have no good ideas yet, how to get the oil to the nut. Do you have any ideas? And for the ways it would be cool if with only one oil port I can lubricate both sides.
for the nut just one drilling through the topslide to the middle of the nut. same with the screw. slides i think you would be better doing them separately, it would be a very complicated array of drilling passages etc to do a "one shot" for both slides.@@WeCanDoThatBetter
Why is there the spacer ring between the bearings? If it is thicker than the web left in the bearing block, it prevents preloading the bearings and if its thinner, then it just floats there, doing nothing, doesn't it?
I would only but the best name brand bearings FAG/SKF/GMN. They may be a little pricier but not outrageous in those sizes. The last thing you want is a bearing failure in some deeply buried part that eats up half the machine. Piece of mind is worth all the money to me.
Can you identify the carbide tools you use? I struggle with good surface finish on my projects. I suspect my approach angle and quality of cutter may be the culprit. Thank you for the videos, I am learning a lot.
Part 1/2: th-cam.com/video/uC5HMXqaRDo/w-d-xo.html
Seems like the first 100 projects on a mini-lathe are fixing problems with the mini-lathe. 😂
seems proxxon works better too 😉
True that. Crap Chinesium, we are letting ourselves be played. Fixing their damn crap instead of building things properly ourselves from the ground up. I hate to see this. We have no pride anymore. And with all the people worked up about climate change and whatnot Chinese factories are churning out tens of thousands of these, all coal fired and with poor treatment of employees. Fucked up world.
@@jericholechat7245 Or just buy an old-iron lathe, cheap and works great
they say the lathe is the only tool that can build itself so - hopefully one can actually get it done.
You’re not wrong!
What a wonderful story before going to bed.
And now I'm dreaming of giving my new little lathe such the same devoted attention.
Oh, how I feel, turning this butter-soft crank.
Very nice work. Every second is a joy. Keep it up.
Great video, great build. The idea to install socket head cap screws that you turned the head down to allow placement in the end of shaft so you could access with an allen wrench was great idea. Looking forward to your next video.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your comment! Happy to hear, you like my work. Until I make a rotary broaching tool for internal hexes, I have to go with the screw method ;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter In case that you´ll sell these perfect compound slides - i´ll buy one.
Absolutely beautiful result. You inspire the rest of us to improve fit and function of our small machine tools. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter i´m out of words. that is german ingenuety at its best. if you are from austria that counts also.
Haha. I think he's Swiss, and too polite to point it out?
I’ll watch whatever length of video you put out. Outstanding work.
Thanks! I really do appreciate your support!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter the pure effort and energy out into your work is difficult not to support 💁🏼♂️ 😬
@@orangetruckman Thank you so much! :))
Very well done. I especially like your backlash adjustment.
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I'm happy I did realise an adjustable nut instead of a simple non adjustable one.
Fantastic and long Videos are perfect for Friday Afternoons
Thank you very much! Happy to hear you like it :)
👍👍😎👍👍 - absolutely fabulous results. Thanks for showing us all the details!
Thank you very much for you kind comment! I really do appreciate that!
Beautiful work as always. I really enjoyed the longer format, and love your humility and sense of humour. Thank you.
Thank you very much for your comment! That's really kind. Happy to hear you like my work and style! :)
I don't even have a lathe (though I want one), and I'm here watching you machine this amazingly fine work instead of sleeping 😁 Well done!
I had no idea half the things you just did were possible on a lathe. I'm impressed
I am very happy having watched this video. Now I know i am not the only one who forget the locking pin in the proxxon machine. Sonce great work as usual.
Haha :D Yes, that's annoying ;) Thank you my friend!
Very enjoyable to watch. Thank you 👍
Thank you very much!
can we have a milling machine improvement/modification video
it's better than net, it's an outstanding achievement. Congrats. Thanks for sharing your expertise, it gave me a few ideas for improving the cross slide of my old DIXI lathe from the 1940's which is somehow worn out.
Thank you very much for your comment! Good luck for your project :)
Proper job. I'm motivated to make some improvements to my full sized lathe.
Thanks!
Das mit den Lagern ist ein Grund für mich, immer Lager von SKF zu kaufen. Die sind zwar teuer, aber wirklich gute Qualität. Industriestandard. Da liegst du immer innerhalb einiger Tausendstel Millimeter.
Beim Gewindeschneiden, auch bei Trapezgewinden immer Schneidöl nutzen. Der Unterschied zu normalem Öl ist wirklich spürbar. Rändeln immer mit langsamer Drehzahl (zwischen 150 und 300/min) und auch hier immer Schneidöl nutzen.
Du könntest versuchen mittels Stift und Nut deine verstellbare Mutter über eine Feder quasi wartungsfrei zu machen. Die Feder drückt beide Muttern auseinander, sodass du immer spielfrei bist. Kenne ich von einigen Herstellern von Drehmaschinen. Kannst du ebenfalls am Planschlitten machen.
Nur ein paar kleine Tipps von nem Mechaniker mit knapp über 35 Jahren Berufserfahrung. 😊
Ach ja... Dein Kanal gefällt mir, habe ein Abo dagelassen. 👍
Es hat mir auch schon Überwindung gekostet für ein kurzes Sackloch einen Gewindebohrer abzuschneiden. Aber manchmal geht es nicht anders um zum Ziel zu kommen. Ich bin sehr erfreut über ihre gute Ausführung der Arbeiten. Bei mir steht das auch noch an und man kann sich Ideen abschauen. Danke
Danke für deinen netten Kommentar! Ja, ein bisschen tut es weh, wenn man den schönen Gewindebohrer "zerstört" für nur ein Loch, aber soo teuer sind sie ja zum Glück nicht, insofern wars mir das wert :) Der Anschnitt ist sonst doch recht lange.
I love these longer videos, the longer the better! Great video as always. 👍👍
I am dumbfounded that the tolerances on the internal races of those angular contact bearings could vary that much. The manufacturer sure as hell dropped the ball on those bearings.
Thank you very much for your feedback! And yes, I'm pretty sure, that this is not standard for bearing tolerances....
watched it again and i see moe details. you really did an awesome job!
Excellent video,, and a great modification ! The usual original mini-lathe compound slides are a pain-in-the-butt. Your modification improves your compound dramatically. Great job. Thanks for the superb video and all the work you put into it.
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! I really do appreciate that after all the work :)
I just love the ingenuity. Fantastic job! 👏👏👏
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter no, thank you for inviting us into your workshop and sharing your knowledge.
An incredible build!
Its so good to see how the quality and precision of your work has increased over the years and the amazing result speaks for itself. Thank you for sharing and happy machining.
Робота виконана на дуже високому професійному рівні, приємно було просто спостерігати за її виконанням. Подяка майстру.
I like the hex in the end of the spindle as you can now power feed the compound slide to get a nice finish on taper turning by using a ball end key in a cordless drill which will give you variable feed speeds. the back lash adjustmend is very good too.
Its always a treat when you upload
Thanks! Happy to hear, you like my work!
Absolutely superb video series. 👍👍
Your quality of work with such simple machinery is just incredible.
Greetings from hot and sunny Sydney AU. 🍺
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that! You need a lot of patience but it is doable ;) Greetings from winter GE
Beautiful work! And very nice photography, too.
Thank you very much for your kind feedback! I really do appreciate that!
This is quite excellent! Congratulations on a magnificent rebuild.
Your hex key modification also affords you the opportunity to achieve some very nice surface finish on tapered parts.
It's glued in, might not fair well on retraction with time, you can make a tool to cradle the handle anyway.. What a great build to watch.
The best solution I have seen so far to improve thre cross slides
So slick! -Wonderful job.
The hex drive on the back makes me think that one could motorize the slide for some odd jobs.
Thank you! Yes, that would be cool for turning longer tapers.
Beatufully done and well designed
Thanks for your comment! I rather think they are just cheap ;) (which they were..). And yes, I think for brass a rather negative cutting angle would be better but it worked anyway.
It is nice to see such a high level of work done on the minila the.
Thank you very much! :)
I love the build and the format of the video. Great job !
Thanks a lot for your kind feedback! I really do appreciate that!
Just caught up with this series, great work buddy, thanks for sharing
Your work is incredible, and I also enjoyed the longer, narrated format here. It would be really great if you had plans to share for your mini lathe upgrades, too! Especially the compound and cross slide improvements you've made.
Thank you very much for your comment and kind feedback! I really do appreciate that. The thing with the plans is, that I have no CAD program at the time which allows me to offer the plans to the public. I'm on the look for a fix here.
If you use a ground shaft or the workpiece before turning you can use the DTI to dial in the tail stock. It’s easier than tuning out the taper after it’s cut
haha that caliper cracks me up!!! POP goes the coller! hehe. that always makes be jump when it happens. looks awesome sir! love the work!
:D Thanks!
Excellent content!!! Please keep it up
Thank you very much!
Wow. That backlash is impressive. Well done sir.
you can also use that hex key on the back of the slide spindle to drive it under power when makilng a taper! i see a lot of people make up a jig for their power drill to spin the handle, but this seems much more elegant.
Very nice work! I may do this with my lathe!
For when you remove the handle, a thumb screw with internal hex driver that aesthetically fits the other knurled surfaces would really finish it off. You could still retain an internal hex on the outside of the thumbscrew, incase you need extra torque during machining but I doubt you'd end up needing it that often
That end result. So precision. Such smooth.
Thanks! Yes, it feels great now.
Quality work.Well done.Thank you.
Thanks!
Excellent result!
Thanks!
21:00 “that was unexpected”. Haha sounds like a good merch slogan (tshirt?)
:D Good idea
Press fits on bearings and races can be used to adjust ball clearances by elastic deformation. I discovered this by inadvertently ruining a ball bearing by pressing it on a solid shaft that was a touch oversized.
Дружище, при регулировке задней бабки обрабатывая до кулачков, используй безотказную формулу. Диаметр больший минус диаметр меньший разделить на две длины. Получишь величину смещения задней бабки. Сместив её с помощью индикатора не меняя положения и желательно не трогая фиксатор пиноли,получишь снайперский выстрел. Если обработка ведётся не на всю длину то формула немного меняется. Точно не помню но по моему вместо длины нужно подставить разницу длин. Но первой формулой пользовался неоднократно. Работает как часы.
Beautiful i love the details you are well aware of
Thank you very much for your feedback! I really do appreciate that.
For clarity, if using standard threads: acme for Imperial/US threads (29 degree included angle), trapezoidal for Metric threads (30 degree inc. angle.).
Oh thanks for your feedback and the hint on the threads. I didn't know that. So for me (in the metric world) it should be always be called "trapazoidal" :) Thanks ;)
So well done. Impressive.
Thanks!
Bro you did an amazing job! 🎉😮
Thank you! I really do appreciate that!
35:41 maybe cut off the ball the screw sits in on the turning handle and make a screw with a ball head, so you don’t need a tool to fix the handle but instead fix it by hand with a knurled screw / Rändelschraube.
Awesome work by the way, you inspired me to get my first lathe! :)
Thanks for your comment! :) Sounds like a good idea too. I have to see how it works in the future and if there is a need of changing it.
Always excellent video and job.
Thank you very much!
Excellent solution.
Thanks!
Incredible workmanship..
Love your videos you did a great job. TH-cam put a ridiculous number of adverts in though 😮
Thanks for the hint! I removed some of the ad breaks. That was an insane high number...
I had an emco compact 5 mini lathe. Well, rather a micromill. Was really well machined, but it had basically no power at all. Also, the parts that weren't well thought outweren'tt easily upgradeable, like with the chinese lathes. The thread for the cross slide was basically just a regular metric M8 thread that was cut directly into the cast aluminum part that was the body of it. The tight tolerances on the bed and spindle didnt do anything for you if you have half a mm of backlash and the crossslide is so light that any machining work would move the slide to any position along these 0.5mm. Parting off a part was barely possible with aluminum and not possible at all with any other material. Changing the rpm of the motor basically meant you had to unscrew the motor. That took 15minutes every time you did it.
Thats why I sold it a year ago. Im trying to save up for a bernardo 400V with dro. Its only 1400 bugs. As far as I've seen very moddable.
For future reference: your machining and cutting that acme thread on the brass parts caused the metal to work harden, to resolve the "crunchiness" you need to heat treat the brass to remove the hardening...
Also, I would suggest cutting the thread before machining the rest of since a fair chunk of that first part looked VERY thin and I was afraid it would snap off while trying to cut that thread.
It could also allow you to hold it on some of the acme rod to keep the thread centered on the parts 😉
I like your making a bottoming tap as they're called, but that blueing had me concerned the temper on that tool was damaged, which isn't a concern for soft materials like brass etc, but could be a problem if you wish to use it for steel... if necessary, that could be easily resolved with a little heat treating
Other than that observation, FANTASTIC JOB!
Absolutely exquisite!
Maistre ai scule de valoare nu prea le găsești pe drum bravo maistre mecanică ceasornicărie pa bay❤❤❤❤
love that pin! ;) it does look awesome sir!!! great work!
Really well done.
Thanks!
Nice build 👍
Yes, as you said a great success!
Indeed :)
I wish my slide was that tight!
Well done, very good work
Hi. Gute Idee mit Luftfreier Mutter. Die Lösung kannte ich noch erlich gesagt nicht. Eigene Entwicklung oder wo gesehen? Wenn selbst ausgedacht, dann Respekt, echt super Idee. Die muss ich mir unbedingt merken. Es gibt nicht so viele Möglichkeiten von Luftfreier Mutter, vor allem wenn der Platz zum einbauen sehr knapp ist. Bei deiner Idee braucht die am wenigsten Platz.
Wie gesagt, tolle Idee und wie immer saubere und präzise Arbeit.
Alles gute und bleib gesund.👋👍
Your Vernier caliper is so cute！😂😂😂😂
Grind a chip breaker on your drill bit to avoid that unexpected grab. Brass is notorious for that.
Excellent work as usual. I think you meant leadscrew when you say spindle. I'm looking forward to the video where you ditch the compound slide and replace it with a solid tool post mount 😂
Thanks my friend! And thanks for the hint on lead screw vs spindle :) I'm not yet in the solid toolpost party :) Perhaps some day I will try but for now I like my compound slide :)
Awesome videos! That looks like it moves so smoothly, so satisfying.
Thanks! Yes, it does. It's really satisfying :)
What excellent actually looks like.
Nice work!
Thanks!
Very tidy piece of work :-)
Thank you! :)
Absolutely great work! Thank you again for sharing....👍
Nice work. 😊
Thanks!
Just a mildly pedantic observation - @0:35, that is not a spindle, it is a lead, or feed, screw. A spindle's primary function is to... spin. Whereas, a lead screw's primary function is to... um... "lead" (ie, move) something...
:)
Pedantary aside, awesome upgrade!
Oh thanks for your feedback! This is good to know. I hopefully remind this next time :)
4:23 Hast du hier nach dem umspannen nicht die Konzentrizität verloren??? Du hättest nach dem Aufkleben des Endstückes das Endstück erst konzentrisch drehen müssen zum Trapezgewinde und dann erst umspannen auf das aufgeklebte Endstück.
Gut beobachtet! Tatsächlich hatte ich darauf nicht geachtet. Ich bin davon ausgegangen, dass der Rundlauf des Spannzangenfutters genau genug ist, damit ich beim Umspannen nicht zu viel Genauigkeit verliere. Ehrlich gesagt, hatte ich einfach darauf vertraut :) Optimalerweise hätte man erst das anzusetzende Stück fertigen müssen, dann im Spannzangenfutter den Zapfen an der Spindel drehen und ohne Umspannen das vorher gefertigte Wellenstück ansetzen.
@@WeCanDoThatBetterSieht am Ende trotzdem alles gut aus, Glück gehabt würde ich sagen☺️👍🏻
That bearing fit was absolutely shocking. angular contact bearings are pricey, I would expect better tolerances.
Yes, that is really weird. The bearings I bought where relatively cheap but nontheless the tolerances are disastrous.
In my bicycle shop I order always Enduro Bearing and I never have issues with tolerances in any way, also with angular contact bearings from Enduro
only P4 or better AC bearings (for spindles) are expensive. Even European made bearings just aren't so bad in standard grades.
You get what you pay for. When you buy trash they don’t send diamonds.
There just cheap low tolerance bearings from China that he bought
perfect working
Great ideas!
Thanks!
Erstklassige Arbeit. Gut, das du bis zum Ende durchgezogen hast. War ein ganz schöner Aufwand. Beim schneiden von Gewinden in Messing hilft ein MoS2 Fett. Reduziert zumindest dieses üble ruckeln etwas. Ich nehm da Mannol 8107. Hast du wieder gut hinbekommen
Danke dir für die netten Worte! Und nach dem Fett muss ich mal suche, danke für den Tipp :)
Beautiful. Thx for sharing.
Cool work thanks 👍
Thank you!
Masterpiece
Thanks!
great video, fantastic ideas, ant thoughts on putting oiling points on for the nut, screw and gibb while you were at it?
Hi and thanks! That's a good point. I think about this but I have no good ideas yet, how to get the oil to the nut. Do you have any ideas? And for the ways it would be cool if with only one oil port I can lubricate both sides.
for the nut just one drilling through the topslide to the middle of the nut. same with the screw. slides i think you would be better doing them separately, it would be a very complicated array of drilling passages etc to do a "one shot" for both slides.@@WeCanDoThatBetter
Top Job,Sir👌
Thanks! :)
Why is there the spacer ring between the bearings? If it is thicker than the web left in the bearing block, it prevents preloading the bearings and if its thinner, then it just floats there, doing nothing, doesn't it?
This is wunderbar!
Dankeschön! :)
very nice , a shame we cant buy upgraded quality like yours :)
Thank you very much!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter your welcome and to say I will be watching more of your worthy upgrades
Excellence in miniature 👍
Thanks!
19:03 Why only one?
What about the most important drawback with the compound slide - RIGIDITY ?
I would only but the best name brand bearings FAG/SKF/GMN. They may be a little pricier but not outrageous in those sizes. The last thing you want is a bearing failure in some deeply buried part that eats up half the machine. Piece of mind is worth all the money to me.
Yes, China bearings are crap. Price and quality are closely followed when it comes to bearings.
Can you identify the carbide tools you use? I struggle with good surface finish on my projects. I suspect my approach angle and quality of cutter may be the culprit. Thank you for the videos, I am learning a lot.
Please stop slamming drill bits into your parts 🤣🤣. I love your content bro. Keep it up!
Haha :D Thank you very much! :) Do you mean the drills get damaged?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I dont know if they get damaged or not, but its just so brutal 🤣🤣
Very good job! 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷 God bless you!
Thanks you very much!