ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- G’day
Here’s the long-awaited 2” suspension lift video!
In this video I explain in as much detail as possible, what you’ll need to do to lift a a P38 Range Rover by 2”, and also run a 285/75/16 Tyre. Ask as many questions as you need! Always happy to help!
The front lower sensor arm is extended by 23mm and the rear lower sensor arm is extended by 48mm. I can't say it enough!!
If you have any questions or want to chat with me, feel free to head over to @chillingwithkeithy on facebook and you can get all the latest and have a chat with me personally if you'd like.
#p38 #rangerover #2inchlift
Thanks for watching!
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Great video Keith. I certainly didn't think about the rear spacer angle so am really glad you posted this before I make the spacers. Made the fronts and back for the coil springs but now i'm going back on air your video is very timely. Well explained and very easy to follow :) Thanks for posting up.... Steve
Lets have a bloody shooie mate, you have been providing heaps of informaton on theese now. Cheers
Cheers mate! Here’s to a shooie 😂
Also always reading that people are ripping the air springs apart. I just purchased my first p38.. 2.5 diesel. Super happy. Everthing works except for the suspension. So I am in study mode. Your vids are amazing. Thanks for all the hard work you share. Greetings from Austria.. throw another shrimp on the barbie 🤣❤🤜🤛
Hahaha cheers mate! Some have had trouble with the Arnott springs ripping apart, others haven’t. I’ve been using them since 2010 and had one fail (in 2010) which was replaced without question. Since then I’ve not had an issue. I got 7 years out of my first set which I replaced for preventative maintenance purposes.
You sound like you are a happy camper with your P38, that’s great to hear! Thank you for the kind words mate 👍
@@Keithy_W I am really happy. Austria they salt the roads here and even new cars are rusted to hell. I found this one from the original owner and has been parked under a car port for six years. It's a beautiful example. Has the 2.5 diesel with a tuning chip. New trans. Stronger engine from a e36 and a bigger diesel pump. Its started on the first click after we got the key to work. 2 left 2 right 🤣🤣. He just doesn't have time to repair the suspension. So I got this beautiful ride for 1500 euros. Only thing cant get the pump to work. So having it towed next week. Bought it last week. After watching all your video's. I cant wait to start working on it. I was a Porsche technician. So I wont have a hard time getting her on the road. Also you have helped me more then you can imagine. Keep up the awesome videos and stay safe.
Ahh yes, the old salted road trick! Sounds like you’ve been very lucky to find a rust free example!
It’s a good thing to have such a well maintained one, once you get the pump sorted it’ll be pleasurable motoring for you! What a bargain! Feel free to hit me up on Facebook (search for chilling with Keithy and you’ll get me) if you ever need advice or want to share some pics!
@@Keithy_W will do
. Finally got her in the driveway.. thanks for the kind words. 🤜🤛
Love your videos and hopefully you can help. I have a 95 P38 and had it in the shop for some brake lines being repaired. Went to pick it up and found that 1) gear shifter would not indicate it was going into "Park" or "1"(transmission does into park and 1 (shows "R" and "2" respectively) but not indicated), 2) Car will only start in "N" and key will not come out when in "Park" (again indicator shows "R" when in park), and 3) Blown Fuse #8 - no radio, Cigar lighter, or HEVAC..WHAT I HAVE DONE: Relay #7 under hood was melted so replaced fusebox..no other obvious faults...when bypassing BeCM and providing 12V to White with Pink feed to HEVAC and Radio, I get proper display, but no action by HEVAC nor any Radio...any ideas? Its getting cold and I need heat!
G’day mate. Sounds like you’re having fun there 😁
The transmission issue sound like a simple adjustment is required on the gear selector linkage. This is done from under the car. Have you had a gander at the linkage in the past and know roughly where it is? This also will solve the key issue.
As for the fuse issue, that’s a hard one to diagnose. The issue could be a wire earthing out, or it could go deeper. Replacing the fuse box is a good start. It may sound silly (and I’m not suggesting you did at all) have you installed the correct fuse box for your P38? There are a number of different ones for the different years/engine combinations.
The fact that you had some action when bypassing the BECM suggests that they work, but without input from the BECM they may not function completely as normal.
A side note: running the blowers any higher than speed 4 is what causes the relay 7 melting issue. This is a design fault by Land Rover, basically putting too much current through a circuit board in an already hot engine bay. Running the blower fans at speed 4 or lower preserves the life of the fuse box.
Hi Keith. New P38 owner here from the UK and I hope to soon be doing a lift on mine before taking it somewhere to see if I can get it stuck 😂 excellent videos! Very helpful indeed and I'm still working my way through your channel. Can you tell me what offset your wheels are? I'm looking at buying 16" steelies with an ET25 offset but I want to make sure they don't rub
Cheers mate, much appreciated 👍🏻 good to hear from another P38 brother!
Mine are +57 offset, bang on the same as the standard 16” P38 wheels. If you go wider, probably want to give the guards a bit of surgery, but shouldn’t be too much work.
@@Keithy_W thanks for the info. I'll get myself some +57s.
All right Keith could you do a measurement from Center of wheel to the arch at all heights pls if you all ready haven’t . And post your findings thanks Liam
G’day Liam,
I have all my heights from before and after the lift. Here are the lifted heights:
After lift, height to center of wheel in mm
Access - 445/455 f/r
Low - 485/490
Standard - 525/530
High - 565/575
Keith Wager thanks that’s perfect matey . Love your rig 👍 hopefully do the same set up in time . Seen the 2” lift post you wrote up on forum very informative thanks
EXCELLENT video Keith, really APPRECIATE them, hope your well. Did you have those measurements for the height sensors at all? Maybe even the drawings/ specs for the airbag adaptor plates one day when your bored...... TAKE CARE Mate
Cheers Rob from Tassie
Robert Laundy G’day mate!
The rear height sensor (lower arm) is 48mm longer, the front height sensor (lower arm) is 23mm longer.
I’ll have to do some serious digging to find the drawings, although I could do a rough one by hand for the spacers ;-)
Take care mate!
Hey, how fid you solve the wheel sensor for the abs? You didn t have to extend brake lines and wheel sensor lines?
G’day mate. I put extended brake lines in, but the wheel speed sensors are long enough and didn’t need extending, as long as the lift is only 2” and not more.
Regards from Mexico !
Great video Keith- one question though.... do they have to be Arnotts air springs or will any make Gen 3 be ok? Cheers and keep the vids coming!!!
Thanks mate, much appreciated.
As for the eBay version of Gen III’s, I can’t comment if they are any good at all. I’ve only used the genuine Arnott ones on my P38, although I’m acutely aware that they are very hard to find at the moment.
Man! This is very helpfull!!!
Thanks mate, I’m glad you enjoyed watching!
G'day mate i have a question about the wheels.
What offset are they and where did you get them from?
Are the wheels a necessity to run the 33" tires without scrubbing or can i run the standard wheels?
Cheers, Josh!
Rocky Section Adventures G’day Josh,
The wheels are 16 x 8” Dynamic Steel wheels. They are the factory +57 offset.
If you have standard 16 x 8” P38 alloy wheels, they are perfectly fine to run with the 33’s. You’ll still need to massage the front inner guard liners to run the 33’s.
@@Keithy_W thanks heaps for the response champ, really appreciate it! Helped Alot mate.
Keep it up!
Cheers!
Last question.. so did I understand that the rear spacers you made or found already with the slight angle. The welding part I understood. Frnt are.. level and rear are tilted . I am so happy so many hate these p38s cause parts are so damn cheap and a little knowledge these are amazing vehicles
That’s correct mate, the rear spacers are angled forward to prevent the rear airbags from pulling out of the clamp when flexing. The fronts don’t tilt as much under flex so it’s not been an issue.
Haha yeah I agree. Parts are very easy to find, it makes it really good for us!
@@Keithy_W morning.. or afternoon. Last question. Are these just coil spacers or spacers made for the air springs. I see many but hate ordering something that's incorrect. The cutting and welding the angle is least of my worries. I told my lady I am about to make a fake name fb account so I can see more pics. Also I dont even have the p38 at home coming next week. Everything is ass backwards in Europe. Back home I would hope in my f250 and trailer it. I need a damn c class license to drive my own truck here. Cause it weighs over 3500kilo..🤣🤣 why I didnt ship it over. I also have to register the bigger tires. Cant just mod as you please . I have watched all your vids now. My lady is getting sick of watching p38 vids on TH-cam 🤣🤣🤣 it's my porn
Good morning mate!
The spacers are similar to coil spring spacers, but designed to suit air springs. You’ll notice the rear ones are angled forwards as well, that’s to prevent pulling the bag apart when flexed.
Ahh yes, the laws and licence stuff sounds like a load of fun for you! It’d be nice if it was all simple and easy.
Cheers for the kind words mate, say hi to your lady from me!
Excellent video man! Congrats with your build. What gear ratio have on your diffs? To compensate that 33s
Thanks mate!
I’m still running the standard 3.54 ratio in my diffs.
The engine sits at about 2000rpm at 100km/h (60mph). It does not struggle to keep up with traffic in the city, and cruises nicely on the highway. Low range is not effected by enough to require a ratio change either.
Cheers
Keithy
What kind of tires are you running? Still 18" rims? How's road performance and ride like with the BFG mud terrains?
Thanks for posting these videos, I really get inspiration from your build. Have a '01 P38 that I'm building out currently.
G’day mate!
I’m running BF Goodrich KM3’s in 285/75/16. I no longer use the 18” wheels.
The mud terrains ride very well on the road, they are super-quiet and grip fantastic.
My pleasure mate, I’m glad I can inspire others such as yourself!
@@Keithy_W Thanks!
Hi Keith, I have a two inch lift on my spring coils P38 and I just installed 33's on it and it's rubbing big time and I do have a 1" spacer on the tires, Any advise?
If you can massage the inter guards you should be right. Mine has standard guards, with a little heating to keep the front edges off the guards. Others I’m still running all guards and edges, no scratching or rubbing. I run standard offset guarding as well.
Good video on the lift. Keep up the P38 vids.
If you drop onto the bump stops can you still steer the car? Murphy's law it will happen where you don't want to stop and fix.
Did you do the lift because you where bottoming out on the tracks or was it to fit the 33s or both?
Whats the reason for fitting gen 3 bags over using OEM?
Have you done a vid on the rear wheel carrier, like to see how its mounted up, I have a Kaymar unit to fit but it weighs a ton.
David Jackson G’day mate!
The car is still perfectly driveable on the bump stops, albeit rough (as you may know)! There’s no tyre scrub when on the bump stops, even when turning. I’ve got a bypass kit in the event of a bag failure, plus spares as well that I take on trips.
I did the lift to fit the tyres. I wanted to run a 33” tyre and it’s not possible without doing the lift. Where I 4wd, diff clearance is the main issue for me, which the tyres have solved. The P38 had enough ground clearance standard, but not enough diff clearance.
The gen III bags are necessary due to their extra length at full extension. Standard bags pull off the piston at full flex on a lifted P38 due to the short length.
I did a short vid (I’m sure) on the wheel carrier. I’ll check through my vids. If it’s not in there I may have to do a bumper-off vid for better vision.
Thanks for your comment mate! 👍
@@Keithy_W
A bumper off, video of the tire carrier would be awesome.
@@Keithy_W If you have 2 inch longer shocks and 2 inch spacers under the air springs then the bags will be just as extended as they would with stock shocks and no spacers, right?
In theory, yes. In practice, unfortunately not. I’ve been privy to ‘test vehicles’ that were indeed lifted and used standard air springs, the results ended bad each time.
I’m not an engineer, but I can only surmise that the geometry of a 2” longer shock absorber at full extension, at the ‘goldilocks’ angle, offers more than 2” when both extended and compressed.
@@Keithy_W Fair enough. I am an engineer but I’m not too familiar with the P38 suspension geometry 😁
Hey Keith, thanks for the video! Wish I came across this before over stretching my gen 3’s. Question for ya - why did you use rubber for the front bump stop extension and not 50mm box section like on the back?
Cheers mate 👍 knowledge is power, now you’re armed with it 😁 hopefully you can get the Gen III’s replaced easy enough.
Initially I was going to leave the rubber ones in there to allow easier removal (should I ever want to remove the front spacers). I haven’t needed to remove them, but it was a future-planning exercise really. Could use box section for both.
@@Keithy_W thanks mate! Gen 3 repairs aren't looking good but I'll keep trying.
I also noticed you have no front sway bar - have you removed it completely or is it a temporary disconnection when you head offroad? How you find it driving on/offroad without? Cheers
That’s the go mate, see how you go.
I’ve removed my sway bar because I broke a linkage a few years ago. I haven’t got around to replacing the linkage, so it’s been without a sway bar for some time now! It’s definitely more boaty, but I don’t feel it’s unsafe. The key thing to remember is that without it I need to avoid rally driving, although I’ve pushed it hard and not come to the limit of body roll yet, so I’m comfortable leaving it disconnected for now.
Anyway you can have a set spacers fabbed up for me? Will arnot genii bags work?
I’ll have to sit on that one mate. My metal shop took a break during COVID so I don’t know if they’re running again yet.
You definitely need the Gen III’s for the lift, you’ll over-stretch the Gen II’s or standard bags.
@@Keithy_W Thanks for replying. Is there a blue print with dimensions for the front and rear spacers floating around anywhere? Did you ever consider cutting and welding to extend the sensors?
I’ll have to have a look mate. I can’t remember what I’ve done with it!
I didn’t consider welding the sensors because the metal is so thin it’d be a very risky job. It was easy enough just to cut and thread it.
Decided to go 4" coil lift by lucky. I don't know exactly how much taller it is than yours, but I assume it should be similar. I assume it's 4" higher than ride height eas, lucky couldn't confirm though. Anyway in your opinion for a 4" lift how necessary are adjustable be panhards and custom driveshafts?
That’s the go, and the best part is that you’re doing it your way.
At a guess I’d say that the 4” coils would be 4” taller than the EAS at “standard” height. That would make it 2” taller than EAS “high”. Only a guess though, don’t quote me on that. If you take measurements from the guard to the centre of the wheel, in mm, we can compare and you’ll get a rough idea of how much lift you have.
As for panhard rods and driveshafts, I would definitely be doing custom for each at the height you will be running all the time.
Love your P38! What exhaust is this please?
Thanks mate! It’s the factory exhaust, split into twins after the rear axle. It has no centre muffler, but two small mufflers on each rear tail pipe.
With the axles now able to hang lower, does consideration need to be given to diff angles and prop shaft lengths? I’ve seen some prop shaft spacers, wondering when those are used...
G’day mate,
The diff angles are only of concern when using “high” at high speed once lifted. Prolonged use in “standard” won’t hurt it as long as you’re regularly greasing the universal joints.
I’ve run this lift for many many years and have not had any issues with driveshaft angles or universal joints. I grease them every 10,000km.
Hi there.. I've read your the article in the forum. Nice job.
My questions..
When the car is on the lower height it stills comfy? Like highway.
I've got regular coil springs and planning on changing back to air, because I need the ability to lower the car down so I can get in the garage door. I've been instructed that's this Arnott already have the extra length I'm looking but I wonder if it gets safer for the balloons to use the spacers so the balloons don't get ripped off in a flex.
I'm putting the tyres 275/75 r16 and with the coils the tyre but inside, do you think I will need the spacers or just the balloons are enough?
If I do the spacers a little smaller, let's say 2.5cm on the front, the rear spacers have to have that difference like 3cm on the higher side and 2cm on the lower, is the math done right?
Thanks for the video great great job 👏🏼👏🏼
G’day mate, thanks for the message! I didn’t think my link on the forum would get any views!
You’re probably best having spacers too mate. If you don’t do it, you’ll send your guards to the hospital pretty quick!
If you want to do smaller spacers, you’re probably best to drop down to a 265/75 tyre. Even the 275 will be a bit much on a 1” lift.
The other option is to limit the bump stops - make them bigger to prevent flexing so far, although that will prevent you from lowering the height in access mode.
Even with the 2” suspension lift you’d be surprised how low they go. I have to use access to get into my garage, and that’s like an archway - and I’m on 285 tyres.
I've written wrong.. the tyres are 265/75 r16 dumb me..
Thanks for the reply, like you said I will probably go with the spacers the same as you, that will hélice me the versatility if I want to go bigger one day hehe the bump stop it's a option too, always better to prevent than to repair.. hehe
Thanks again, as soon as I have the beast running I will share something 😜
Spot on mate! Spot on 👍🏻
Hi again.. how about the shocks? Which shocks are you using? Have been told to fit the OEM front shock on the rear.. is that enough to use all the travel of the air suspension?
If you’ve got spacers under the air springs, run the Terrafirma +2” P38 springs. There are two types - adjustable and non-adjustable!
Hey Keith, would you recommend the Terrafirma shocks? Looking at them for RR with standard EAS system
G’day Brendon, I definitely recommend the terrafirma shocks, they’re great! For a standard P38 I reckon you can’t go past the factory Boge shocks, they’re the best in my opinion.
@@Keithy_W thank you.
Where did you get that front bumper?? Cant find it online. Can you help me by sharing info about it. Thank you!!
It is the factory brush guard. Made by Land Rover.
I do have same question!
It is the standard P38 bumper and bull bar
So funny my p38 has them as well I looked to find some more pics only to notice not many came with this feature. I have all the brush guards and the ralley lights and the headlight wipers. . Green with brown interior with black pipping.
Do you always run on and off trail without the anti-sway bar? Or is it only disconnected for off road driving?
RJ G’day mate! I run with the sway bar all of the time. The exception at the time I made that video was that I’d just returned from an extreme 4wd trip where I had to remove the sway bar because I broke the sway bar linkage. You can see the bent linkage hanging down during this video, I literally just returned from that hardcore trip prior to making the video.
RJ with that said, the sway bar is sitting in my garage right now, unattached, and the P38 handles like the QEII.
It will go back on, when I get linkages. Until then, I’m not concerned.
I want to know if the P38 it's a good SUV SOME ONE SALE ONE
G’day mate, they sure are a good 4wd. There are some parts to a P38 Range Rover that differ to other 4wd’s so it’s worth reading up on them to help make your decision when buying.
Do you need to lengthen the height sensor lower arm or is it possible to just re program the height settings in the computer?
Johann Cerecke Definitely lengthen the lower arms. Reprogramming will have the height sensors over-stretch and break.
Can I just add any 2 inch lift and use the tires you have 285/75 with no rub. I have removed the air springs and put coil springs
It’s hard to say with coil spring lifts as they can and do vary. You’d have to do some measurements to verify the lift before going hard with the tyres.
@@Keithy_W The person that did the job told me the coil springs are about the same height as the standard height of the air suspension
I would say it’d be too close to call. You’d be better off with 265/75/16’s at that height.
Hey Keith!
Do you know if we can still source the Gen 3 Bags?
G’day mate, I’m not sure if they’re making the Gen 3’s at the moment. I did hear that they had a halt on production for a while, but no info on an expected return to sales.
@@Keithy_W Bummer! Don't want to go coils but it's looking ever easier now. 😕
That’s a fair point. I’ll go back to standard airbags and make my lift kit work around it if I couldn’t get the Gen 3’s.
Coils would be equally as positive an outcome - I could live with both.
Arnott or dunlop.. hear the arnott is 2 inch taller then stock dunlop
G’day mate, you’re right, the Arnott Gen III airbags are a few inches longer in the bellow, and have a taller piston than the Dunlop bags. That’s the big factor when lifting a P38 to take into consideration.
@@Keithy_W thanks 🤜🤛👍
DOU THEY AR GOOD .DO THEY LAST teikin byin a 2000Lik thet 1.and dont nou if they ar good1
G’day mate, they are definitely built to last. How well they last is dependent on the maintenance. If you regularly service them they will go forever. If you only drive and never maintain them they won’t last long.
Are your diffs centered or do they hang out?
They are pretty close to centered. Standard Panhard rods still. It drives straight and true on all road surfaces
how about the panhard rod how did you modify that?
Leonardo Curca G’day mate!
The panhard rod is standard. No modifications. The axles still track pretty close together so I haven’t worried.
Others in Australia have modified them to be adjustable. Whiteline here do an adjustable front panhard rod that you can purchase, but not a rear one.
i have the same bags as you no lift kit and the girl tilts to one side at max size because of the rods you are lucky
Are you sure it’s related to panhard rods? Your situation sounds like the height needs calibration if it’s leaning to one side.
The panhard rod locates the axles side to side and doesn’t effect the height of the vehicle.
@@Keithy_W i transformed the system from electric to pneumatic only. it is linked bouth fronts and bouth backs i have 2 pneumatic hight butons and a gauge with 2 dials so the only thing i can blame is the rod. do you have an ideea?
and it leans to the right side
Hi !!
G’day mate 👍
@@Keithy_W I have by pegas p38, what do you think about? Ekectrika this is car normal? Sorry, am from Russia.
I think that’s a good choice mate! I can’t say I’ve seen your P38, I did have a quick look at your videos. As long as you’ve got a good battery and alternator, you should have a pretty reliable P38 👍 make sure to keep up maintenance to ensure it keeps you moving 😀
@@Keithy_W I have not bought p38 yet, just going to do it I would like to know about the problem with the synchronization of control unitshow common is this problem have you encountered this
Ahh yes, I understand now. The synchronisation issue is more common in the GEMS (1995-1999) P38’s than the THOR (1999-2002), although the GEMS p38 seems to do have more faulty wiring and over-complex systems that the THOR.