dude hitting the threads of the ball joint with a hammer is never going to do anything besides mangle the threads. all you have to do is hit the side of the loop on the spindle with a 4lb mini sledge a few times and the ball joint will pop out on its own. this is the best way to do it if someones trying to avoid damaging the ball joint or boot
I think videos of these small improvements are really important because they apply to people who swap motors and race as well as do general maintenance. Thorough and informative. I'll definitely save this for later.
Awesome, thanks a lot for sharing your thoughts with me. They are fun jobs to do that aren’t such a big undertaking like some others can be. Hope it can help you or act as a loose guide for you in the future then. Thank you!
Cars are looking very nice, I'm jealous. And for me these little things are what keeps me coming back, I also did some of these mods in my car and had no idea how, back then there where no videos to look into for help jist pictures online and try to figure it out on my own. But who ever wants to start a project car all these little details help a lot. Only a few videos like yours out there and like 1mill engine swap videos. So keep up the good work and can't wait to see what else you guys have lined up for the cars.
Hi buddy those look sweet, as a mechanic here in the UK i know those arms are going to make a lot of difference because almost anything made out of tubular steel will make it much stronger its the reason ALL rollcages are tubula very nice mod cheers for the upload SCOOBS UK.
hey man should deff be doing up those bushes loaded by jacking up under the lower control arm until it just lifts the corner off the stand this will make sure the bush is in its relaxed state when tightened tightening the bush unloaded and just putting it in will cause premature wear and kill the rubber bonded bushing as it will be constantly bound if that makes sense as that arm moves quite a bit once its loaded see in you're vid when you were moving the arm up and down it was springing back to the same relaxed state thats how it needs be loaded right in that sweet spot
Refine Movement yeah perfect then just losen that 14mm through bolt and do it up at ride height you will be set. Doing up any rubber bonded Bush unloaded will destroy them in no time different if its a polyurethane bush with the crush tube centre that spins freely those you can tighten at any stage
Just thinking about that, I don’t know how I would tighten those bolts for the bushes when it’s loaded like you describe though. The bolts and nuts for those are up in the shock tower and it doesn’t allow you to put a socket or even an open ended wrench on it. Especially not when the coilovers is on there. And if the coilovers wasn’t in there and I would try to tighten those bolts then, it wouldn’t be loaded, right?
Refine Movement you should be able to get open ended spanners in there its a tight squeeze but definitely do able and yeah to be accurate at where the loaded point is you need the new coil over in
Thanks for taking the time to share that with me. I’ll have to try and see if I can get my openended wrenches in there when I put the new coilovers in. It’s a tight squeeze for sure. Every other video I have watched of people putting these things in including Skunk2 tighten them before installing. I understand what you are saying though by it being loaded and how that would help the bushes.
The real benefit of this swap is gaining the adjustment at the ball joint. They look like good units for circle track racing. You don't want control arms or any suspension components to be heavy or beefy. Half that weight is unsprung and adding weight here will hurt handling. Keep suspension components as light as possible.
Very nice! I definitely look forward to possibly getting some for my hatch. Right now, I'm just rocking their rear LCA's. They are awesome btw 👍. I also have the front ones to be put on when I get my motor swap situation figured out
I enjoy these type of episodes brotha 💯👌🎣. I have an EK Hatch so im learning the differences of the bodies ( minut details) by watching you work on your EG .
Thanks a lot man. Yeah, small differences between the two chassis but the front camber arms are a good show of those small differences. They mount up a little different between eg and ek
Happy to hear it! I only do track days on this car and have 5 of those days done with the new upper arm. All is good so far. I don't know about daily driving on it
Nice Hard Race front camber for Civic. I have Hard Race rear upper arm kit on my 94 Accord and my car felt more solid and firm with lowering. I love it. I want to get front camber kit but kit is out of stock. This kit should give a better solid and steering response.I did research on google that EF Civic and Accord are same design of front camber kit but different two bolts, not need support between two bolts on EF Civic. I wonder if your camber kit cause any harsh or hit the chassis under? Let me know, thanks.
Lmfaoooo you did NOT just say “give it a WATAAA!” Me and my uncle do the same shit since we were kids growing up together hahaha it still carries true today when we work on stuff.
I installed new inner and outer tie rods, the brand is moog. Could that have made my tires stick out more from the bottom and sink in more from the top?
The Hardrace units look so much more robust than the flimsy factory pieces. Should give you much more adjustability to dial in your ride for the track.
That was my first thought too. The Hardrace pieces really do feel stronger when comparing it to the factory piece. Really looking forward to being able to dial in some camber settings.
How do you like or deal with the HardRace upper control arm adjusting bolts, being on the top rather than a design where they're on the bottom? Just curious cause I can't decide between these or something TruHart, not sure what would be easier to deal with.
I bought the truhart specifically because the bolts were on the bottom. It will be easier on the bottom. Getting a wrench on top is always going to be harder. Robbie had no choice because of his sponsor to get these. -Travis
Haven’t driven it yet so stay tuned if you care to see. But I don’t anticipate it to do so. There’s plenty of room for the arm to move up in the wheel well. I’ll be doing a modest 2” drop so it’s not like the car will be slammed all the way down.
They are Hardrace inner and outer tie rods. The link below is to the video I made installing then if you care to check it out th-cam.com/video/aavwUzX6gLc/w-d-xo.html
I have those hardrace control arms and even with the ball joint pulled all the way forward I could not get rid of my camber completely. And I'm running stock springs.
@@vanquishstorm3806 They are heavier than stock but otherwise were a perfect fit. Just wish I could adjust them enough to get rid of my negative camber and I've at stock ride height.
@@vanquishstorm3806 yah ball joint is solid. They usually aren't a failing point as long as you keep the boot sealed well and replace the boot if it ever gets a hole in it. I applied extra grease to mine because it didn't have enough for my liking.
Larry! Haha it’s ok man glad you are here either way! Lots of engine swap woes a few months ago but those are finally resolved and now on to upgrading the suspension.
Seeing you put anti seize on the threads gave me cancer. Never put it on the threads, that’s how you lose a nut. Put it on the smooth part of the bolt, so it doesn’t seize in the bushing.
dude hitting the threads of the ball joint with a hammer is never going to do anything besides mangle the threads. all you have to do is hit the side of the loop on the spindle with a 4lb mini sledge a few times and the ball joint will pop out on its own. this is the best way to do it if someones trying to avoid damaging the ball joint or boot
100%
I think videos of these small improvements are really important because they apply to people who swap motors and race as well as do general maintenance. Thorough and informative. I'll definitely save this for later.
Awesome, thanks a lot for sharing your thoughts with me. They are fun jobs to do that aren’t such a big undertaking like some others can be. Hope it can help you or act as a loose guide for you in the future then. Thank you!
Cars are looking very nice, I'm jealous. And for me these little things are what keeps me coming back, I also did some of these mods in my car and had no idea how, back then there where no videos to look into for help jist pictures online and try to figure it out on my own. But who ever wants to start a project car all these little details help a lot. Only a few videos like yours out there and like 1mill engine swap videos. So keep up the good work and can't wait to see what else you guys have lined up for the cars.
Hi buddy those look sweet, as a mechanic here in the UK i know those arms are going to make a lot of difference because almost anything made out of tubular steel will make it much stronger its the reason ALL rollcages are tubula very nice mod cheers for the upload SCOOBS UK.
Your suspension setup is coming along nicely! 💪
hey man should deff be doing up those bushes loaded by jacking up under the lower control arm until it just lifts the corner off the stand this will make sure the bush is in its relaxed state when tightened
tightening the bush unloaded and just putting it in will cause premature wear and kill the rubber bonded bushing as it will be constantly bound if that makes sense as that arm moves quite a bit once its loaded
see in you're vid when you were moving the arm up and down it was springing back to the same relaxed state thats how it needs be loaded right in that sweet spot
Cool man, thanks! Nothing is connected up entirely yet
Refine Movement yeah perfect then just losen that 14mm through bolt and do it up at ride height you will be set. Doing up any rubber bonded Bush unloaded will destroy them in no time different if its a polyurethane bush with the crush tube centre that spins freely those you can tighten at any stage
Just thinking about that, I don’t know how I would tighten those bolts for the bushes when it’s loaded like you describe though. The bolts and nuts for those are up in the shock tower and it doesn’t allow you to put a socket or even an open ended wrench on it. Especially not when the coilovers is on there. And if the coilovers wasn’t in there and I would try to tighten those bolts then, it wouldn’t be loaded, right?
Refine Movement you should be able to get open ended spanners in there its a tight squeeze but definitely do able and yeah to be accurate at where the loaded point is you need the new coil over in
Thanks for taking the time to share that with me. I’ll have to try and see if I can get my openended wrenches in there when I put the new coilovers in. It’s a tight squeeze for sure.
Every other video I have watched of people putting these things in including Skunk2 tighten them before installing.
I understand what you are saying though by it being loaded and how that would help the bushes.
The real benefit of this swap is gaining the adjustment at the ball joint. They look like good units for circle track racing. You don't want control arms or any suspension components to be heavy or beefy. Half that weight is unsprung and adding weight here will hurt handling. Keep suspension components as light as possible.
Really love your videos.... especially the step by step! Can't wait to see videos of the eg on the track!!!!
This video was super helpful! Thank you!
Very nice! I definitely look forward to possibly getting some for my hatch. Right now, I'm just rocking their rear LCA's. They are awesome btw 👍. I also have the front ones to be put on when I get my motor swap situation figured out
I enjoy these type of episodes brotha 💯👌🎣. I have an EK Hatch so im learning the differences of the bodies ( minut details) by watching you work on your EG .
Thanks a lot man. Yeah, small differences between the two chassis but the front camber arms are a good show of those small differences. They mount up a little different between eg and ek
Refine Movement Yeah, i like to get nerdy with that type of detail lol. Looking forward to shopping with RHD soon 👍🎣🏎
I enjoy the way you do it, and we can learn as well how to perform those things instead of paying others to do so, thanks bro !
Thank you very much! I’m no mechanic but the average home do it yourselfer which I think most of us are who mess around with these cars.
You’re the real mvp Carl!! That’s a nice kobalt!!
Awesome keep working on project eg cheers
Thanks a lot! More to come for sure
I'm glad I found this video. Thank you. How long does the upper chamber arm last?
Happy to hear it! I only do track days on this car and have 5 of those days done with the new upper arm. All is good so far. I don't know about daily driving on it
Looking good buddy hope to see the coilover video soon lol and keep up the good work and hope all is well
Nice Hard Race front camber for Civic. I have Hard Race rear upper arm kit on my 94 Accord and my car felt more solid and firm with lowering. I love it. I want to get front camber kit but kit is out of stock. This kit should give a better solid and steering response.I did research on google that EF Civic and Accord are same design of front camber kit but different two bolts, not need support between two bolts on EF Civic. I wonder if your camber kit cause any harsh or hit the chassis under? Let me know, thanks.
Lmfaoooo you did NOT just say “give it a WATAAA!” Me and my uncle do the same shit since we were kids growing up together hahaha it still carries true today when we work on stuff.
Lol that’s hilarious man! I dunno, it just felt right to say that in the moment! I guess you know exactly the feeling haha
Got to love a full sponsorship build 🤔
I installed new inner and outer tie rods, the brand is moog. Could that have made my tires stick out more from the bottom and sink in more from the top?
Which camber better for daily driver. Camber arms or adjustable ball joint?
Hey dude!! I just want you to know that this video helps mi a lot thank you..
Great video!
The Hardrace units look so much more robust than the flimsy factory pieces. Should give you much more adjustability to dial in your ride for the track.
That was my first thought too. The Hardrace pieces really do feel stronger when comparing it to the factory piece. Really looking forward to being able to dial in some camber settings.
Max negative camber ? -2,5?-3? Tkssssss
Does the front and rear camber kits and toe kits make the car feel different? I’m redoing all poly bushings and camber kits
Ya gotta check out spherical bushings. Tremendously better. Especially for track
What’s the stock version called? Want to get rid of the cambers bc of wear & tear. Would appreciate it thank you.
I think it would be called front upper control arm
Underrated. Great vid
Yas! I have those on my racecar.
Nice! So I’m guessing you like them so far?
Yeah i do. Hardrace is an awesome ozzy brand.
Where did you end up setting the camber bolts??
How do you like or deal with the HardRace upper control arm adjusting bolts, being on the top rather than a design where they're on the bottom? Just curious cause I can't decide between these or something TruHart, not sure what would be easier to deal with.
I bought the truhart specifically because the bolts were on the bottom. It will be easier on the bottom. Getting a wrench on top is always going to be harder. Robbie had no choice because of his sponsor to get these. -Travis
@@RefineMovement Awesome! Thanks for your response. Thinking the TruHart is the set for me, thanks!
Where did you find that vice? I can't find it anywhere
Does anyone know if the 92 civic and the 92 accord have the same suspension I’d love to put these on my accord if they’d fit?
How it the camber kit/ ball joint holding , i have to change mines but can’t decide either Hard race or K tuned !?
Same here. I'm in between going with Hardrace or K-TUNED.
So what did you go with. I was just looking at those same parts. I'm 90% sure I'm going to go with ktuned
After lowering my civic eg I have camber now on the front wheels is there anyway to get it back to normal without having to buy these?
Nope. There is no way to adjust the camber with out an after market control arm like these.
Great job
Do u have any problem with it hitting the shock tower?
Haven’t driven it yet so stay tuned if you care to see. But I don’t anticipate it to do so. There’s plenty of room for the arm to move up in the wheel well. I’ll be doing a modest 2” drop so it’s not like the car will be slammed all the way down.
What tie rods are you using?
They are Hardrace inner and outer tie rods. The link below is to the video I made installing then if you care to check it out th-cam.com/video/aavwUzX6gLc/w-d-xo.html
Hit what ball joint goes trough, not the ball joint itself.
this exactly
2nd bolt out why didn't you use a shallow????
I have those hardrace control arms and even with the ball joint pulled all the way forward I could not get rid of my camber completely. And I'm running stock springs.
How do you like these control arms thus far? I'm in between buying these or K-TUNED
@@vanquishstorm3806 They are heavier than stock but otherwise were a perfect fit. Just wish I could adjust them enough to get rid of my negative camber and I've at stock ride height.
@@IkarosCanFly Has the balljoint held up thus far?
@@vanquishstorm3806 yah ball joint is solid. They usually aren't a failing point as long as you keep the boot sealed well and replace the boot if it ever gets a hole in it. I applied extra grease to mine because it didn't have enough for my liking.
@@IkarosCanFly I'm going to look into purchasing a set for both the front/back. Aligning wise was it much of an issue being that the bolts are up top?
check them subs growing, nice job fellas!
Great information
Thanks man!
i feel like ive missed soo much! im back tho haha!
Larry! Haha it’s ok man glad you are here either way! Lots of engine swap woes a few months ago but those are finally resolved and now on to upgrading the suspension.
Love it
You gotta give me a "dude" or a "knarley" at some point
Hello do you have an email I can contact you? I love all about your suspension work! Can you link me all the parts you put in.
those r sweet
👍🏻👍🏻
Seeing you put anti seize on the threads gave me cancer. Never put it on the threads, that’s how you lose a nut. Put it on the smooth part of the bolt, so it doesn’t seize in the bushing.
One word: bedhead
First
This guy is high as a kite.
You must be talking about yourself because I’ve never touched the stuff. So either you’re high as a kite or your judgement of who is high is terrible
Forreal dude dont judge based on first impressions.