FYI, if you want to install a genuine Honda bushing, you can buy just the bushing but Honda does not make it easy to find. The Honda part number for 1988-2000 Civics is 52385-SR3-000 (1997-2001 CRVs use Part # 52385-SR3-003). Good job getting is fixed Eric!
On behalf of DIYer's who don't go this far mechanically, thanks Eric! Shedding some light on the challenges a "real" mechanic goes through has educated me, and hopefully many others. This might pose as a reminder for would be clients to put aside a few extra bucks (for additional parts n' labour) when having this kind of repair done. Further proof that mechanic/auto technician does not equal crook.
Thanks for leaving in the problems, too many creators edit it out. That tool looks good, but there needs to be a wide thick foot that fits over the bolt end. Less wobble effect, a straighter push on the new part.
Fellow rust belter here, this job is a right of passage for civic/integra owners. Especially if you have to do it without that special tool, on jack stands, in the winter time. In my case most of those bolts were totally seized, days of penetrating oil and heat didn't work and I ended up snapping 5 of them, I'm sure frustration played no role there. It can* be done without removing the toe adjustment bolt but is a serious PITA, you need something like a block of wood to hold the trailing arm down. Key thing is patience with troublesome bolts which Eric demonstrates very well. You rarely see him snapping a bolt and make a hard job worse. Chamfering and a hammer (or mini sledge) are definitely your friend for getting the bushing started to go in.
Started watching your channel when I had a civic like this one. Sold that thing years ago. But I still watch because I find great value in how you overcome when things go sideways. This video is a great example. Watching you struggle gives me tricks so I struggle less. Thanks for the video. Cheers.
I did both of those trail arm bushings in my Honda Civic 2000 LX about 8 months ago and they were easy to replace with a no special tools (an air hammer would help a lot, though). I gathered a lot of info before I did my work and according to a few sources you have to push the bushing from the inside to the outside and not the other way because either the bushing replacement or the arm is actually beveled. A 4 lb sledge hammer is your best friend for this job.
That job with a lift makes life much easier. I own 2 civics and I went through that job at least 4 times as far as I remember. And I don’t have a lift. I have a different bushing removal tool, I have the LASER 4716, it is expensive but nice sturdy piece of kit. I will put my bit of input here. I usually mark the position of the trailing arm bushing while the car is sitting on the ground. Fot the alignment bolt, I usually use something sharp to make a marking all around the washer, so when the job is done you just sit the washer around the marking you have done earlier and if you do it precisely, you don’t need an alignment. Lucky me, my civics didn’t have such a stubborn bolt like yours. All the bushings I bought here in Uk, already came with the chamfered edge, that is a huge help. Those 2 bolts at 16:00 minutes, the very top ones, I strongly recommend start putting them in by hand, they are a pig to start getting them in, I usually use a floor jack to lift the trailing arm up in position the make life easier. Using the impact straight away to put them in, risks cross thread the threads on the body where the bolts are bolted in place. The previous owner of one of my civics did just that and when the time came for me to change the bushings, I had a bit of hard time to put one of the bolts back in place.
I don't know why Laser advertises it as for CRV only. I assume it should work on yours. This laser tool works fine on my 2 civics ( 6 gen 1.4cc 90HP years from 1995-2001 here in uk) My trailing arm is the same as Eric is using in this video. Check this link: th-cam.com/video/bgNVZfu75Jc/w-d-xo.html these guys are using one bushing extractor tool exactly the same as mine but with the trailing arm out side the car. This tool is made to avoid taking the trailing arm completely out of the car and without disconnecting brake lines. Obviously, if you take the trailing arm out of the car it will make your life way easier because it is much better to work on the work bench rather than on the floor.
As a note: In many areas of the USA, us home repair and professional mechanics are forced to contend with the significant effects of rust and corrosion caused by road salt used in winter making disassembly a challenge indeed
Hey Éric ( sorry for my bad english, I am a French canadian hehe) I just want to tell you thank you. A couple year ago I started to watch your video and started to work on my own car. Now I'm a young mechanic and I share my passion with other people. Thank you and keep on doing your great work.
I find your english very good mon cher ..Lache pas Éric moi aussi ma passion c'est de me salir les mains apres la Acura EL de mon gars...Je viens de lui installer trailingg arms bushings plus des cambers arms ajustable et des toe arms ajustable aussi. CRISSE de bushing gelés! OUPPS Amuse toi ! Denis ( De La Prairie)
Thank you very much! It's comments like yours that keep me going during dark times. I really appreciate you taking the time to share that with me. Good luck in your career.
I juuuuust helped a buddy with his car and we had a bolt frozen in the bushing. Freaking pain in the butt. I'm glad I'm in good company!! Awesome video as always!
Howdy Eric, Just wanted to thank you for this video from 2022, Finally decided to replace my shot trailing arm bushings in my 99 Civic SI. I had done this on a 98 civic many years ago using a large socket the size of the bushing, and a large hammer (needless to say this wasn't fun going out or in, but I got it done), so I had bought the special tool in advance. Soaked all the bolts in penetrating oil for a couple days in preparation, but I should have taken heed: "Surely my alignment bolt wont be that stuck, I don't need to order the compensator arms" 'Lo and behold, the dreaded bushing sleeve spin. Thankfully it wasn't stuck in the end nut just the bushing, so I didn't have to use heat or drill a hole, I was able to grab the bushing after a couple attempts with vise grips and get the bolt out. One more hit to the wallet and all the new arms and bolts are on the way... thankfully I have time to do it right. Appreciate all your videos over the years.
Man this video is fantastic. You seriously saved my bacon going through the possible issues with this bushing replacement. I ended up throwing the bushings in the freezer a few days before doing this and that helped when pressing them in.
Just about to reinstall drivers side compliance bush on our 2005 Rover 45 which has same bush/rear trailing arm. Luckily all the bolts came undone ok. I have put new bush in freezer as suggested. I've had trailing arm sandblasted and powder coated so hopefully I won't damage the finish trying to get the new bush in. I hope I'm as lucky loosening bolts when I do the other side. I'm replacing all the bushings, shock absorbers, springs, rear brakes, rear bearings and repainting all parts plus the floor. Great video, especially for a first timer doing this job, like me.
I have a '98 CRV and I'm in the middle of replacing the rear trailing arm bushings(with Honda OEM..not messing around with the aftermarket on such a critical item), rear stabilizer bar end-links & bushings,rear struts, and the compensating arms. I bought new bolts for the bottom strut mount and four bolts for the compensating arms. After watching Eric struggle with the inner compensating arm bolt I was fearing the worst since I've owned the vehicle for 22+ years and I know those bolts have never been removed. I live in the Atlantic City area(around 8 miles inland) so although we're certainly not the Rust Belt we do occasionally get snow and our roads are often treated with salt. I was relieved and thrilled when both of the inner compensating arm bolts came loose without too much effort. Before I loosened them I scribed around the bolts to insure they'll be in the same position when I put everything back together. The new trailing arm bushings are resting comfortably in the freezer awaiting installation. Hopefully today goes as well as yesterday.
Yes I love these civic videos. I have two 98 integra’s and have put this job off for two years now. Awesome videos. I really love how it’s a real pain in the ass for you too even doing as much as you’ve done it all depends on the car or bolt. Thanks Eric
.....I got to change the suspension bushing on my 1998 Daihatsu Charade. Its a much simpler setup and I will be doing it DIY at home. I will follow your tip to freeze the bushing the night before. Thank you. On the same note, back in the 90's, me and my dad changed the bushings on my Mercedes Benz (W116), and boy that was a big, big battle. We tried all heavy tools and heat but it would not budge, untill finally we got a thick walled pipe cut to a good length, got it machined on a lathe and used a big hydraulic press to push it out.!!
Did a rear disc swap on my del sol years ago, also added stainless steel lines and solid bushings. No rust and all of my fasteners came out without issue. Guess I got lucky. Brings back memories!
Just did this job on my 98 crv in the driveway. This tool made it so much easier. I sprayed the toe adjustment bolts every day for about three days with kroil prior to trying to loosen them. Now my integra needs the same treatment.
Last time I tried to use that tool it ended up bending the trailing arm because the bushing was too seized. Had to use a press to get it out. Really surprised that it came out so easy for you, especially with what happened with the toe arm!
Man...Rear Drum Brakes, that is so old :-) Did them on a buddy's '08 Versa and they weren't nearly in the cond' of this one. Must have been sitting for a very very long time. Hella Work Eric!
"It's been my experience" lol but seriously I appreciate your videos and the info you give to help us do our own work and keeps some coin in our pockets. Keep up the good work Eric.
Thank goodness my Integra has never lived in rust-prone areas. I've never had a problem with those bolts. But those big trailing arm bushings are one thing most people forget when they change the ride height on a Honda vehicle. When the ride height is changed, suddenly the orientation of the trailing arm bushing becomes incorrect for the ride height, and thus they tend to wear out much faster than before. I replaced all my suspension bushings including the trailing arms with HardRace hard rubber bushings some years ago. I took everything off the car, and then hauled everything (including the trailing arms) to a guy I knew who runs a local shop, to press them all in for me. Before I started I marked the TA bushing orientation by using a straight edge against the TA bushing's through bar, scribing lines on the trailing arm itself. That way the new bushings could be pressed in at the correct orientation for my car's ride height.
I did them on a Civic i had a few years ago. Took me an hour and a half worked ok. But yeah its a rather shit job. Everything else in these 90s civics is mostly easy and fun to do.
@@99Lezard99 If you can still get HardRace hard rubber bushings, they're a great OEM replacement at a fraction of OEM or Mugen rubber bushing cost. I just pulled off every suspension arm on my Integra and took them to a shop to have them all pressed in.
Anthony Gonsalves man it was a number of years ago. I think for the complete bushing set plus installation and alignment may have been in the $300-$400 range.
Wondering if that's the culprit to all the rear-end clunking sounds on my 2003 Honda Element. I did watch your previous videos, years ago about the rear end sounds...replaced all the stuff you mentioned but clunking still kept on for another 5 years....I'm at 312,000 miles knock on wood! Thanks for all your videos through the years man!
I know this is 4 years old, but I laughed out loud when you said "turned more challenging than you originally thought, but that's how it goes when working on rusty cars like this one" HA! That is in pristine condition compared to the rusty conditions we encounter when working on our cars, here in Scotland. Still an awesome video that passes the test of time. Thanks👍
I did look closely at the ones I bought, also compared them with OEM honda ones. There is a difference. That is why Eric had to grind a bevel into them.
I like to use dry ice for shrinking bearings and bushings because sometimes the first chance fails. You could also heat up the trailing arm but I would probably avoid it because pressing on it after may warp it more easily when it's done. Great video. Always great to have a reliable Honda in the fleet.
I have done lots of those bushings too. That car looked pretty clean rust wise. Here in Ontario those cars are pretty tough. With the adjustment arms I don't even try to save them. I cut them off to expose the bushing heat it cherry hot and with channel locks and a wratchet wrench I pull them out. I find that the square nut inside usually holds if not I make the drain hole about 5/8 to get a pair of long needle nose pliers in the ones with hoops on the end. As for the bushings..... Energy suspension. I don't even bother with stock ones anymore they are junk. I have put them in with a large washer and a flat bar in the back and 2 large C-clamps. It is barberic but it works for me. All things considered your job went well great video.
great write up here mike ! I agree with U 100% Scrap those compensator/toe arms and desintegrate all the material left around the inner bushing in order to cook it red hot , grab it with Visegrip while U unscrew the bolt. Be carefull not to force that cold bolt out U might regret it when that dam square /sliding nut fall out of his track ..otherwise U will cry after your mamy !.. what a poor enginering design that captive nut in the body...Sochiro is not proud at his enginering team for sure...Denis here from Quebec salty roads 6 mths/year...Get our car rust treatement every year is the word here...up north(Canada)
Polyurethane bushings for the trailing arms are total crap. They'll bind up, deform and crack in no time, and won't allow for proper handling characteristics because they can't move in the same way the stock bushings do. Either go OEM, or go HardRace hard rubber replacement TA bushings.
@@Patrick94GSR well I guess it depends on your set up. I have installed hundreds of these bushings specifically the ones that energy suspension offers.... I have seen them work without any issues for a lot of miles both on and off the track. You don't like them I get it. For me and my clients it is a reasonable priced option to solve a very very common problem. Curious..... How have you seen them fail?
some info from ITR owners, and also CIvic track drivers: "Yeah, the urethane is REALLY bad news for the RTA. The way the arm rolls as camber is gained causes binding over bumps and can kick the back end out unexpectedly." and also honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/how-quick-easy-civic-integra-trailing-arm-bushing-replacement-also-es-poly-vs-mugen-1589298/ this is why I went with HardRace rubber RTA bushings instead of poly. Also my experience using poly under the car in other areas has been that poly turns to dust after only a few years in a NON-SALTED very mild winter environment.
more bad experiences with polyurethane bushings honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/my-experiences-poly-bushings-info-post-1563815/
I discovered your channel recently and I drive a Honda Accord and you have many videos working on the Honda J series motor, specifically timing belt and clutch. My .mechanic wants $1999 for a clutch job with cheap parts and $920 for a timing belt an water pump. Thanks to you I think ive seen the last of my mechanic. Thank you!!!
Eric you e got some of the best repair tips around. I’m in school to be an automotive technician and I use a lot of your stylers and they help out very much
Since 1969 I've worked on VW Bugs, Datsun 600-Series pickups, mid-sixties Chevys, and a 1998 Honda CR-V. I learned my lesson: every nut and bolt gets a dab of "Neverseez" graphite-based anti-seize compound - been using the same 50s-era pint can since it was given to me in 1970.
Need to do these on my 01 crv. Thanks for the video. I think I can do this. Also, I once rebuilt the front of a 1988 Acura legend, all from watching your videos. Thank you Eric
This is why I use antiseize on any nut and bolt on the underside of the vehicle. I also use some of it on the brake drums and rotors to keep galvanic corrosion away.
Thanks for the helpful tips Eric, great job. I'm super happy to see a Civic video :) I watched the full version of the Integra rear suspension and this seems a lot more practical. I see lots of these cars regardless of what city I go to, so I'm sure your work will be much appreciated.
While it sucks that the bolt in the trailing arm gave you problems, it was neat seeing you torque on it with the breaker bar and watching the toe change to see that's how its adjusted
Well yeah especially some older d16 engines like to use oil. But thats mostly down to irregular oil changes. There accures carbon build up on the oil rings from the pistons. The oil isnt properly picked up from the cylinder walls then because the little holes in the pistons are gunked up. So the oil is still on the cylinder walls and gets burned away. Thats why your old high mileage engine has still good compression but burns oil like a rotary. If you've happend to buy one of those examples there is no easy cure for that Problem. I had this Problem on an old ef i had. It used a lot of oil but had good and even compression. I changed my oil rather early and i thrashed the engine and put it under Stress a lot and it got better and better. Never used an oil flush in it to see if it would do something. Was too scared. 😆 a lot of people think its the Valve stem seals but i cant remember anyone for whom changing them solved that problem. Also if you want to do valve seals use OEM honda ones. Another part from wich i heard too much about problems when aftermarket or "upgraded" aftermarket stuff like skunk2 or similar bullshit. When its about internals of a Honda engine allways try to stay OEM.
After watching and asking in a Honda shop how hard it would've been to change (before studying to be a Mechanic) I decided to use the Energy Suspension ones better for my '93 Civic
Polyurethane bushings are total crap for Hondas, especially for the trailing arms. The way these arms are designed, they have to move up and down AND side to side through the range of suspension movement, and poly bushings in the trailing arms tend to bind up, and don't allow for proper suspension movement. There was a thread in the Integra Type R forum some years ago by a guy who replaced poly TA bushings on his Type R that had completely warped and cracked after only a few months with only a few track sessions, and put in some HardRace hard rubber bushings instead. Or maybe he put in spherical bearing bushings, I can't remember. Point is, poly bushings generally wear out and fail must faster than OEM rubber or hard rubber replacement bushings.
I use nothing but energy suspension trailing arm bushings. They are easier to install about 30 to 40 bucks for the pair and they last pretty much forever while still performing better also. I recommended that over the oe style !
When I install these on an Integra, CRV, or Civic, I have a secret handshake. I put the car up on a lift, put a post jack up to support the car at that corner. Don't do this: I usually push the lift arm out of the way once the weight is on the post jack. I pull that arm down with a ratchet strap to hold it down and in place while I press the bushing out and replacement in. I usually use genuine Honda bushings too. Aftermarket bushings have been tough to press in.
I swapped integra rears into my ef when I had it. Then ex knuckles/brakes and calipers, the bigger master, and the 5150 proportioning valve. Was a good upgrade back in the day.
You could use a gear puller and one of those 'plumbing reducer coupling' and square head plugs as the 'cup'. 3 jaw puller may reduce chance of misalignment during installation. Also the bushing housing is tapered, and is wiser to install it from under the vehicle, but that special tool in the video doesn't allow it. With the 'special tool', I had to place the piston/bolt tip, between the hole on the cup and the outer border of the cup (3 or 9 o'clock position). Once it went in a little, I could then use the hole in the middle to push it in. I'd suggest covering that hole, as more water getting in could contribute to rust
@@ericthecarguy eric I showed this video to a friend a he told me he had already bought one! So your right I'll just use his! I'm kicking myself of not thinking about building a tool like this 10 years ago when I did these all the time!
thanks for the Video, I recently started to look for better ways to fix the bushing problem on my 97 integra, it looks a lot easier than the one you did several years ago, I'll try soon, I am an amateur on these, so wish me luck
Good thing I bought a aftermarket warranty that many don't recommend, that warranty covered a lot of issues including those Bushings with 100$ deductible on my 07 TL
Mine rusted so much the bushing and the arm sunk :D After some welding work the bushings are in place again. Next replacement will be the whole car :) Very hard job on those civics
holy crap man, Scotty does not even show that much instruction anymore, he just sits around a bitches about how other cars suck and Toyotas are the best. He sits around and talks about how he has a $5000 scantool that none of us will ever have.....total joke. I don't doubt Scotty's experience, but his youtube vids suck in comparison.
Sam LovesCoffee You can't really blame Scotty. It's how the automotive space in TH-cam works these days. People don't want to see repairs, they want to see their opinions about auto repair validated, or challenged. That's what's getting views. I've thought about taking that direction myself. It's a lot less work and you get more views, but I've always tried to say focused on providing accurate content about auto repair. Meaning, leaving the mistakes in so that others can learn from them. It's cost me views, viewers, and made some people angry, but it has also helped a lot of people overcome situations that are often cut out of other videos. Also, TH-cam wants you to post constantly these days. You need to post about 3 times a week so that the algorithm notifies your subscribers that you've posted a video. Otherwise, you do a lot of work for nothing. That's something I've been dealing with for 2 years now. It's very difficult to post 'repair' videos at that frequency and still maintain sanity. Not many people realize how much effort goes into videos like this. In fact, in total, I probably have 15 hours into this video. Try doing that 3 times a week. There simply aren't enough hours in a day. So Scotty changes his format to keep up with the times. He's getting views and making money. Does that mean he's doing something wrong, or does it mean that he's just being a smart business man? Hate the game, not the player as they say.
Hey man I don't dislike Scotty personally, and like I said I don't discount his knowledge, but maybe there are folks like myself and the op that prefer the type vids that you make. I can agree that from a business perspective it makes huge sense for him to sit down and do a one hour question and answer session then break it down into seven days worth of vids, but it gets damn old listening to opinions rather than providing assistance as he used to. So props to you for not going that route, and providing what I see as actual beneficial information to what I feel he does as watered down entertainment.
Had to do this on both sides of my '95 Integra to pass inspection one year, I took the entire control arm off the car because I didn't have that special tool, but with a little WD40 the new bushings tapped in with a hammer fairly easily. And I had the exact same problem with the compensator arms, the bolt froze to the bushing. Bought a pair of used OEM comp arms on Ebay for $15, went to Honda for new bolts.
Great info. I've always felt the Schley tool was/is overpriced for what it is and the fact of the matter is it's not really needed anyway, particularly to press out the old one. Simply cut out the rubber with a sawzall and then carefully cut two deep notches in the metal sleeve and hammer it out with your BFH....easy peasy. As Eric mentioned afterwards throw the new bushing in your freezer overnight, clean and grease the opening and then install it by pounding the hell out of it with the aforementioned BFH.
When I did the replacement on my 97 Toyota Tercel...I pressed it out from the front like on this video, but pressed it in from the back. I too had a bit of a problem with it going in crooked as well. I used my impact....much easier
Suspension bolts are the devil's work - on EVERY car. Earlier this year, working on my drive, it took me hours just to undo two pinch bolts. Eventually I too had to use heat which fried the bushes and doubled the parts bill.
@@panzerveps Suspension bolts are FAR more likely to break with a breaker bar as opposed to an impact wrench. With a breaker bar you're putting a high, sustained torque load on the bolt head, as opposed to an impact wrench which puts very short, sharp blows to the bolt head. Much less likely to break with the impact. And no not EVERY car has this problem. My Integra GSR suspension has been apart more times than I can count and I've never broken a bolt. I had to tap and chase the threads on my front shock fork pinch bolts, but that's about it. It just depends on the climate the car has lived in over the years. Luckily the first time I lowered the car in 2002 I had an impact wrench available and did not break any bolts.
I know its been 4 yrs + but I'd say anyone looking now, FREEZE the new bushings before or after chamfering the edges as Eric does- also you can hack saw a portion out of the bottom of the old busing when its still in the arm to remove the rubber and about 3/4" or so section of the steel ring at about 5-6 O' clock , then pry that 3/4" section out to release the tension of the bushing ring, then the whole ring will tap out or should with a hammer and screwdriver or other implement. I believe you can release the front of the trailing arm so it will just drop down after releasing the trailing arm side of the compensator arm to do the latter procedure. ..
Did the same job last summer, did not remember having issue with that tool installing the bushing. But I have to cut the bolt from that thing. Now I have that tool and I don’t think I’ll have to use it again haha.
I don't know why I find these car repair videos so fascinating since I hate to work on cars. My neighbors ask me where I learned how to work on cars and I just say, "TH-cam".
This is totally unrelated but if you remove the rubber trim around the rear wheel arches of 80's and 90's Hondas they won't rust. Reason being is the rubber trim holds in moisture, dirt, sand, and salt above the rear quarter panel lips on the backside.
The rear end on my 2004 Civic was making a "clunking" noise. I thought it was the rear shocks, but after watching this video these bushings may have been the culprit. I never even had any luck removing the lower bolt on the rear shock. I would have never gotten that hidden bolt out to remove the bushings. Fire scares me when I am laying on the ground and only have 3 inches of clearance between my head and the torch. I sold the car, so someone else could deal with it. Great video, Eric!!
FYI, if you want to install a genuine Honda bushing, you can buy just the bushing but Honda does not make it easy to find. The Honda part number for 1988-2000 Civics is 52385-SR3-000 (1997-2001 CRVs use Part # 52385-SR3-003). Good job getting is fixed Eric!
Also, 52385-ST3-G01
What are you talkin about I just bought them at the dealership?
Thank you 🇺🇸👍
M
how about for 2001 integra which number
On behalf of DIYer's who don't go this far mechanically, thanks Eric!
Shedding some light on the challenges a "real" mechanic goes through has educated me, and hopefully many others.
This might pose as a reminder for would be clients to put aside a few extra bucks (for additional parts n' labour) when having this kind of repair done.
Further proof that mechanic/auto technician does not equal crook.
No, thank you for your comment. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for leaving in the problems, too many creators edit it out.
That tool looks good, but there needs to be a wide thick foot that fits over the bolt end.
Less wobble effect, a straighter push on the new part.
Yea, I think that would make it better. Always great to see you in the comments.
Fellow rust belter here, this job is a right of passage for civic/integra owners. Especially if you have to do it without that special tool, on jack stands, in the winter time. In my case most of those bolts were totally seized, days of penetrating oil and heat didn't work and I ended up snapping 5 of them, I'm sure frustration played no role there. It can* be done without removing the toe adjustment bolt but is a serious PITA, you need something like a block of wood to hold the trailing arm down. Key thing is patience with troublesome bolts which Eric demonstrates very well. You rarely see him snapping a bolt and make a hard job worse. Chamfering and a hammer (or mini sledge) are definitely your friend for getting the bushing started to go in.
Started watching your channel when I had a civic like this one. Sold that thing years ago. But I still watch because I find great value in how you overcome when things go sideways. This video is a great example. Watching you struggle gives me tricks so I struggle less. Thanks for the video. Cheers.
That has always been my intention. Thank you for the comment.
I did both of those trail arm bushings in my Honda Civic 2000 LX about 8 months ago and they were easy to replace with a no special tools (an air hammer would help a lot, though). I gathered a lot of info before I did my work and according to a few sources you have to push the bushing from the inside to the outside and not the other way because either the bushing replacement or the arm is actually beveled. A 4 lb sledge hammer is your best friend for this job.
That job with a lift makes life much easier. I own 2 civics and I went through that job at least 4 times as far as I remember. And I don’t have a lift.
I have a different bushing removal tool, I have the LASER 4716, it is expensive but nice sturdy piece of kit. I will put my bit of input here.
I usually mark the position of the trailing arm bushing while the car is sitting on the ground.
Fot the alignment bolt, I usually use something sharp to make a marking all around the washer, so when the job is done you just sit the washer around the marking you have done earlier and if you do it precisely, you don’t need an alignment. Lucky me, my civics didn’t have such a stubborn bolt like yours.
All the bushings I bought here in Uk, already came with the chamfered edge, that is a huge help.
Those 2 bolts at 16:00 minutes, the very top ones, I strongly recommend start putting them in by hand, they are a pig to start getting them in, I usually use a floor jack to lift the trailing arm up in position the make life easier. Using the impact straight away to put them in, risks cross thread the threads on the body where the bolts are bolted in place. The previous owner of one of my civics did just that and when the time came for me to change the bushings, I had a bit of hard time to put one of the bolts back in place.
hello Rui Nunes i thought this laser 4716 tool was srtickly for Honda CRV...Does it work for Civic EK (1996*2000)
I don't know why Laser advertises it as for CRV only. I assume it should work on yours. This laser tool works fine on my 2 civics ( 6 gen 1.4cc 90HP years from 1995-2001 here in uk) My trailing arm is the same as Eric is using in this video. Check this link: th-cam.com/video/bgNVZfu75Jc/w-d-xo.html these guys are using one bushing extractor tool exactly the same as mine but with the trailing arm out side the car. This tool is made to avoid taking the trailing arm completely out of the car and without disconnecting brake lines. Obviously, if you take the trailing arm out of the car it will make your life way easier because it is much better to work on the work bench rather than on the floor.
As a note:
In many areas of the USA, us home repair and professional mechanics are forced to contend with the significant effects of rust and corrosion caused by road salt used in winter making disassembly a challenge indeed
flyonbyya you are right indeed.
Don't forget to spray some pb blaster or the like.
Hey Éric ( sorry for my bad english, I am a French canadian hehe) I just want to tell you thank you. A couple year ago I started to watch your video and started to work on my own car. Now I'm a young mechanic and I share my passion with other people. Thank you and keep on doing your great work.
I find your english very good mon cher ..Lache pas Éric moi aussi ma passion c'est de me salir les mains apres
la Acura EL de mon gars...Je viens de lui installer trailingg arms bushings plus des cambers arms ajustable et des toe arms ajustable aussi. CRISSE de bushing gelés! OUPPS
Amuse toi !
Denis ( De La Prairie)
Thank you very much! It's comments like yours that keep me going during dark times. I really appreciate you taking the time to share that with me. Good luck in your career.
Your English is actually very good. you speak better English than alot of people that only speak English here on TH-cam.
I juuuuust helped a buddy with his car and we had a bolt frozen in the bushing. Freaking pain in the butt. I'm glad I'm in good company!! Awesome video as always!
Howdy Eric, Just wanted to thank you for this video from 2022, Finally decided to replace my shot trailing arm bushings in my 99 Civic SI. I had done this on a 98 civic many years ago using a large socket the size of the bushing, and a large hammer (needless to say this wasn't fun going out or in, but I got it done), so I had bought the special tool in advance. Soaked all the bolts in penetrating oil for a couple days in preparation, but I should have taken heed: "Surely my alignment bolt wont be that stuck, I don't need to order the compensator arms" 'Lo and behold, the dreaded bushing sleeve spin. Thankfully it wasn't stuck in the end nut just the bushing, so I didn't have to use heat or drill a hole, I was able to grab the bushing after a couple attempts with vise grips and get the bolt out. One more hit to the wallet and all the new arms and bolts are on the way... thankfully I have time to do it right. Appreciate all your videos over the years.
Man this video is fantastic. You seriously saved my bacon going through the possible issues with this bushing replacement. I ended up throwing the bushings in the freezer a few days before doing this and that helped when pressing them in.
Just about to reinstall drivers side compliance bush on our 2005 Rover 45 which has same bush/rear trailing arm. Luckily all the bolts came undone ok. I have put new bush in freezer as suggested. I've had trailing arm sandblasted and powder coated so hopefully I won't damage the finish trying to get the new bush in. I hope I'm as lucky loosening bolts when I do the other side. I'm replacing all the bushings, shock absorbers, springs, rear brakes, rear bearings and repainting all parts plus the floor. Great video, especially for a first timer doing this job, like me.
the way of patience you're showing here is really teaching me a lot in life......God blessed you dear brother
Nice video Eric. Real world auto mechanics. How hard can it be. Nothing is as easy as it looks. Thanks for the tips. 👍
I have a '98 CRV and I'm in the middle of replacing the rear trailing arm bushings(with Honda OEM..not messing around with the aftermarket on such a critical item), rear stabilizer bar end-links & bushings,rear struts, and the compensating arms. I bought new bolts for the bottom strut mount and four bolts for the compensating arms. After watching Eric struggle with the inner compensating arm bolt I was fearing the worst since I've owned the vehicle for 22+ years and I know those bolts have never been removed. I live in the Atlantic City area(around 8 miles inland) so although we're certainly not the Rust Belt we do occasionally get snow and our roads are often treated with salt. I was relieved and thrilled when both of the inner compensating arm bolts came loose without too much effort. Before I loosened them I scribed around the bolts to insure they'll be in the same position when I put everything back together. The new trailing arm bushings are resting comfortably in the freezer awaiting installation. Hopefully today goes as well as yesterday.
The videos just get better and better lately Eric!
Thanks. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog/2250-october-2018-newsletter
We like to see the struggles Eric. It makes us feel better when we have struggles to know the ETCG has struggles as well.
Yes I love these civic videos. I have two 98 integra’s and have put this job off for two years now. Awesome videos. I really love how it’s a real pain in the ass for you too even doing as much as you’ve done it all depends on the car or bolt. Thanks Eric
Just got a new civic and have to do it as the bushing is GONE, I appreciate the video it'll be a big help
.....I got to change the suspension bushing on my 1998 Daihatsu Charade. Its a much simpler setup and I will be doing it DIY at home. I will follow your tip to freeze the bushing the night before. Thank you.
On the same note, back in the 90's, me and my dad changed the bushings on my Mercedes Benz (W116), and boy that was a big, big battle. We tried all heavy tools and heat but it would not budge, untill finally we got a thick walled pipe cut to a good length, got it machined on a lathe and used a big hydraulic press to push it out.!!
Did a rear disc swap on my del sol years ago, also added stainless steel lines and solid bushings. No rust and all of my fasteners came out without issue. Guess I got lucky. Brings back memories!
Just did this job on my 98 crv in the driveway. This tool made it so much easier. I sprayed the toe adjustment bolts every day for about three days with kroil prior to trying to loosen them. Now my integra needs the same treatment.
I need to do this on my 88civic 89crx and 93 integra 😬
Where do you get the tool at
Finally a good old fashioned repair video 10/10
Last time I tried to use that tool it ended up bending the trailing arm because the bushing was too seized. Had to use a press to get it out. Really surprised that it came out so easy for you, especially with what happened with the toe arm!
Man...Rear Drum Brakes, that is so old :-) Did them on a buddy's '08 Versa and they weren't nearly in the cond' of this one. Must have been sitting for a very very long time. Hella Work Eric!
4:56 "I could be scared, or I could just do it" if that's not the truest thing I've ever heard I don't know what is
Pablo Cruz just do it
@John Doe dude....😂
Yeah, some great quotes in this episode, my fave was, "Gonna need a bigger boat."
While the car is in the shop, the customer takes a coffee, open the fridge for some milk, there are bushings where the popcicles used to be.
"It's been my experience" lol but seriously I appreciate your videos and the info you give to help us do our own work and keeps some coin in our pockets. Keep up the good work Eric.
Thank goodness my Integra has never lived in rust-prone areas. I've never had a problem with those bolts. But those big trailing arm bushings are one thing most people forget when they change the ride height on a Honda vehicle. When the ride height is changed, suddenly the orientation of the trailing arm bushing becomes incorrect for the ride height, and thus they tend to wear out much faster than before. I replaced all my suspension bushings including the trailing arms with HardRace hard rubber bushings some years ago. I took everything off the car, and then hauled everything (including the trailing arms) to a guy I knew who runs a local shop, to press them all in for me. Before I started I marked the TA bushing orientation by using a straight edge against the TA bushing's through bar, scribing lines on the trailing arm itself. That way the new bushings could be pressed in at the correct orientation for my car's ride height.
My ‘97 civic hatch needed bushings, I drove it into the sea instead.
My '93 Civic needs them too, I just ignore the issue and keep driving her. 315K miles and counting.
I did them on a Civic i had a few years ago. Took me an hour and a half worked ok. But yeah its a rather shit job. Everything else in these 90s civics is mostly easy and fun to do.
@@99Lezard99 If you can still get HardRace hard rubber bushings, they're a great OEM replacement at a fraction of OEM or Mugen rubber bushing cost. I just pulled off every suspension arm on my Integra and took them to a shop to have them all pressed in.
@@Patrick94GSR How much did that all end up costing you?
Anthony Gonsalves man it was a number of years ago. I think for the complete bushing set plus installation and alignment may have been in the $300-$400 range.
Wondering if that's the culprit to all the rear-end clunking sounds on my 2003 Honda Element. I did watch your previous videos, years ago about the rear end sounds...replaced all the stuff you mentioned but clunking still kept on for another 5 years....I'm at 312,000 miles knock on wood! Thanks for all your videos through the years man!
I know this is 4 years old, but I laughed out loud when you said "turned more challenging than you originally thought, but that's how it goes when working on rusty cars like this one" HA! That is in pristine condition compared to the rusty conditions we encounter when working on our cars, here in Scotland. Still an awesome video that passes the test of time. Thanks👍
This is the video type that I love!
It's the bushing Eric. The cheap bushings don't have a bevel on the edges and they flat will not go in.
I did look closely at the ones I bought, also compared them with OEM honda ones. There is a difference. That is why Eric had to grind a bevel into them.
I Appreciate the way you explain yourself throughout the whole entire video. Very informative and very helpful, bad a**!!! Thank you bro...
I like to use dry ice for shrinking bearings and bushings because sometimes the first chance fails. You could also heat up the trailing arm but I would probably avoid it because pressing on it after may warp it more easily when it's done.
Great video. Always great to have a reliable Honda in the fleet.
I have done lots of those bushings too. That car looked pretty clean rust wise. Here in Ontario those cars are pretty tough. With the adjustment arms I don't even try to save them. I cut them off to expose the bushing heat it cherry hot and with channel locks and a wratchet wrench I pull them out. I find that the square nut inside usually holds if not I make the drain hole about 5/8 to get a pair of long needle nose pliers in the ones with hoops on the end. As for the bushings..... Energy suspension. I don't even bother with stock ones anymore they are junk. I have put them in with a large washer and a flat bar in the back and 2 large C-clamps. It is barberic but it works for me. All things considered your job went well great video.
great write up here mike ! I agree with U 100% Scrap those compensator/toe arms and desintegrate all the material left around the inner bushing in order to cook it red hot , grab it with Visegrip while U unscrew the bolt. Be carefull not to force that cold bolt out U might regret it when that dam square /sliding nut fall out of his track ..otherwise U will cry after your mamy !.. what a poor enginering design that captive nut in the body...Sochiro is not proud at his enginering team for sure...Denis here from Quebec salty roads 6 mths/year...Get our car rust treatement every year is the word here...up north(Canada)
Polyurethane bushings for the trailing arms are total crap. They'll bind up, deform and crack in no time, and won't allow for proper handling characteristics because they can't move in the same way the stock bushings do. Either go OEM, or go HardRace hard rubber replacement TA bushings.
@@Patrick94GSR well I guess it depends on your set up. I have installed hundreds of these bushings specifically the ones that energy suspension offers.... I have seen them work without any issues for a lot of miles both on and off the track. You don't like them I get it. For me and my clients it is a reasonable priced option to solve a very very common problem. Curious..... How have you seen them fail?
some info from ITR owners, and also CIvic track drivers: "Yeah, the urethane is REALLY bad news for the RTA. The way the arm rolls as camber is gained causes binding over bumps and can kick the back end out unexpectedly." and also honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/how-quick-easy-civic-integra-trailing-arm-bushing-replacement-also-es-poly-vs-mugen-1589298/ this is why I went with HardRace rubber RTA bushings instead of poly. Also my experience using poly under the car in other areas has been that poly turns to dust after only a few years in a NON-SALTED very mild winter environment.
more bad experiences with polyurethane bushings honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/my-experiences-poly-bushings-info-post-1563815/
I discovered your channel recently and I drive a Honda Accord and you have many videos working on the Honda J series motor, specifically timing belt and clutch. My .mechanic wants $1999 for a clutch job with cheap parts and $920 for a timing belt an water pump. Thanks to you I think ive seen the last of my mechanic. Thank you!!!
I'm happy to be of service. Thank you for your comment.
find a new mechanic. your old mechanic was a complete rip off
Eric you e got some of the best repair tips around. I’m in school to be an automotive technician and I use a lot of your stylers and they help out very much
This is the best car mechanic channel ever. Thanks Eric, keep coming. BTW, where is Brian, The camera man?
Thank you!
Since 1969 I've worked on VW Bugs, Datsun 600-Series pickups, mid-sixties Chevys, and a 1998 Honda CR-V. I learned my lesson: every nut and bolt gets a dab of "Neverseez" graphite-based anti-seize compound - been using the same 50s-era pint can since it was given to me in 1970.
cakework with the right tools. that bushing press really is magic.
The Right tools do make A big difference 👍
I really appreciated the struggle putting it back in...
That's a brutal job without a lift.
Even more so without the tool.
Had to do it twice on both of my crx's without removing the control arm and on the ground.
Much more so without some heat, or a pry/crowbar. Definitely worth getting the tools you need.
Only took about 3 hrs of beating on it with a hammer on one side
I changed mine in my 1989 hatch, and had to take the entire trailing arm off and take it to a machine shop. It sucked.
Need to do these on my 01 crv. Thanks for the video. I think I can do this. Also, I once rebuilt the front of a 1988 Acura legend, all from watching your videos. Thank you Eric
This is why I use antiseize on any nut and bolt on the underside of the vehicle. I also use some of it on the brake drums and rotors to keep galvanic corrosion away.
Showing where to window that toe arm nut! You are the man for real!
This is the kind of video i love!
Watch the ads people. So Eric can get some money for making these awesome videos.
Mechanic said I needed the bushings done, but wanted to replace the whole control arm a lot of dough like you said.
did the same job on a '00 Civic a few months ago... had to order parts 3 times because everything was "rust welded" together! get info Eric!
Thanks for sharing the real struggles in the process!!!
I'm not looking forward to doing this on my Civic. Thanks for the video.
I'm getting ready to do the same job, thank you for all your info. Will pre soak the later arm bolt and hope it comes lout.
That's how it is done rusted bolts and all very good video!
Really enjoy Eric the car guy, him and Chris Fix are a wealth of knowledge, I would probably rather have a few beer with Eric though! 😂🇨🇦👍🏻
Thanks for the helpful tips Eric, great job. I'm super happy to see a Civic video :)
I watched the full version of the Integra rear suspension and this seems a lot more practical.
I see lots of these cars regardless of what city I go to, so I'm sure your work will be much appreciated.
Loving the new, shorter editing! Previously i had to wait until i had time to watch the 30-45 minute episodes.
I have been trying to put out shorter content lately. With YT these days it's all about watch time.
Thank goodness my car lives in Texas where rust is rare!
Thanks for the video Eric, I just ordered that tool from J&B.
While it sucks that the bolt in the trailing arm gave you problems, it was neat seeing you torque on it with the breaker bar and watching the toe change to see that's how its adjusted
That’s awesome that it is actually a real world situation because that’s exactly how most of these come apart
So nice to see the pros struggle with basic things like rusted bolts and bushings going in sideways.
Great information! Hope i dont struggle when it's time for the da9 to get the rear trailing arm bushing done!😕 Thanks! For the encouragement!✌
I did a lot of the same bushings on big trucks, tip to you, put the bushing in a freezer for 1 hr and sometimes heat the arm
Thanks Eric! You make it look SO easy. That tool is awesome, but a bit pricey for a DIYer. Thanks a ton, and please keep it up!
Wow, new camera? Very clear! Thanks for Honda videos.
it's a civic - it will make it to the next time, might be using more oil than fuel, but it will make it.
Well yeah especially some older d16 engines like to use oil. But thats mostly down to irregular oil changes. There accures carbon build up on the oil rings from the pistons. The oil isnt properly picked up from the cylinder walls then because the little holes in the pistons are gunked up. So the oil is still on the cylinder walls and gets burned away. Thats why your old high mileage engine has still good compression but burns oil like a rotary. If you've happend to buy one of those examples there is no easy cure for that Problem. I had this Problem on an old ef i had. It used a lot of oil but had good and even compression. I changed my oil rather early and i thrashed the engine and put it under Stress a lot and it got better and better. Never used an oil flush in it to see if it would do something. Was too scared. 😆 a lot of people think its the Valve stem seals but i cant remember anyone for whom changing them solved that problem. Also if you want to do valve seals use OEM honda ones. Another part from wich i heard too much about problems when aftermarket or "upgraded" aftermarket stuff like skunk2 or similar bullshit. When its about internals of a Honda engine allways try to stay OEM.
After watching and asking in a Honda shop how hard it would've been to change (before studying to be a Mechanic) I decided to use the Energy Suspension ones better for my '93 Civic
Polyurethane bushings are total crap for Hondas, especially for the trailing arms. The way these arms are designed, they have to move up and down AND side to side through the range of suspension movement, and poly bushings in the trailing arms tend to bind up, and don't allow for proper suspension movement. There was a thread in the Integra Type R forum some years ago by a guy who replaced poly TA bushings on his Type R that had completely warped and cracked after only a few months with only a few track sessions, and put in some HardRace hard rubber bushings instead. Or maybe he put in spherical bearing bushings, I can't remember. Point is, poly bushings generally wear out and fail must faster than OEM rubber or hard rubber replacement bushings.
Would the hardrace rubber defeat the purpose of side to side movement allowed by the oem rta?
I use nothing but energy suspension trailing arm bushings. They are easier to install about 30 to 40 bucks for the pair and they last pretty much forever while still performing better also. I recommended that over the oe style !
When I install these on an Integra, CRV, or Civic, I have a secret handshake. I put the car up on a lift, put a post jack up to support the car at that corner. Don't do this: I usually push the lift arm out of the way once the weight is on the post jack. I pull that arm down with a ratchet strap to hold it down and in place while I press the bushing out and replacement in. I usually use genuine Honda bushings too. Aftermarket bushings have been tough to press in.
You can get the SI trailing arms for relatively cheap and get a rear disk upgrade in addition. Think I got mine for $200 shipped from a place in NC
Link?
I swapped integra rears into my ef when I had it. Then ex knuckles/brakes and calipers, the bigger master, and the 5150 proportioning valve. Was a good upgrade back in the day.
@@autovette6528 sorry dude this was about ten years ago
I have 99 Integra rear trailing arms and brakes on my crx, and they’re affordable at your junk yards.
I just bought both for 40 brand new ?...
Thank you for this, I have a 2000 CRV that needs this job done - much appreciated !
did a vw rear axle bushing couple months ago... had to remove the damn axle... was a complete PITA getting the bushings out and in.
Perfect timing Eric. I need to do this with my 92 EH sedan.
You could use a gear puller and one of those 'plumbing reducer coupling' and square head plugs as the 'cup'. 3 jaw puller may reduce chance of misalignment during installation. Also the bushing housing is tapered, and is wiser to install it from under the vehicle, but that special tool in the video doesn't allow it.
With the 'special tool', I had to place the piston/bolt tip, between the hole on the cup and the outer border of the cup (3 or 9 o'clock position). Once it went in a little, I could then use the hole in the middle to push it in.
I'd suggest covering that hole, as more water getting in could contribute to rust
Great job, you know all the tricks to do this kinds of jobs, work well done ERIC!
Eric this video is fantastic! I am having my bushings replaced on my Integra. Hopefully those bolts come out
After working on my Toyota all day. This Honda looks like a real car.
I love how he gives me permission to overdo it on the anti-seize 🤣 its truly great advice thank you eric 👍
I looked up that tool its almost 150 bucks! Its looks simple enough that ill try to make my own!
You can often 'borrow' a tool like this from you local auto parts store.
@@ericthecarguy eric I showed this video to a friend a he told me he had already bought one! So your right I'll just use his! I'm kicking myself of not thinking about building a tool like this 10 years ago when I did these all the time!
thanks for the Video, I recently started to look for better ways to fix the bushing problem on my 97 integra, it looks a lot easier than the one you did several years ago, I'll try soon, I am an amateur on these, so wish me luck
Good thing I bought a aftermarket warranty that many don't recommend, that warranty covered a lot of issues including those Bushings with 100$ deductible on my 07 TL
Mine rusted so much the bushing and the arm sunk :D After some welding work the bushings are in place again. Next replacement will be the whole car :) Very hard job on those civics
Erick is a HONDA guy! Keep up the good work! Hes wayyyyy better than SCOTTY
holy crap man, Scotty does not even show that much instruction anymore, he just sits around a bitches about how other cars suck and Toyotas are the best. He sits around and talks about how he has a $5000 scantool that none of us will ever have.....total joke. I don't doubt Scotty's experience, but his youtube vids suck in comparison.
Sam LovesCoffee You can't really blame Scotty. It's how the automotive space in TH-cam works these days. People don't want to see repairs, they want to see their opinions about auto repair validated, or challenged. That's what's getting views. I've thought about taking that direction myself. It's a lot less work and you get more views, but I've always tried to say focused on providing accurate content about auto repair. Meaning, leaving the mistakes in so that others can learn from them. It's cost me views, viewers, and made some people angry, but it has also helped a lot of people overcome situations that are often cut out of other videos.
Also, TH-cam wants you to post constantly these days. You need to post about 3 times a week so that the algorithm notifies your subscribers that you've posted a video. Otherwise, you do a lot of work for nothing. That's something I've been dealing with for 2 years now. It's very difficult to post 'repair' videos at that frequency and still maintain sanity. Not many people realize how much effort goes into videos like this. In fact, in total, I probably have 15 hours into this video. Try doing that 3 times a week. There simply aren't enough hours in a day.
So Scotty changes his format to keep up with the times. He's getting views and making money. Does that mean he's doing something wrong, or does it mean that he's just being a smart business man?
Hate the game, not the player as they say.
Hey man I don't dislike Scotty personally, and like I said I don't discount his knowledge, but maybe there are folks like myself and the op that prefer the type vids that you make. I can agree that from a business perspective it makes huge sense for him to sit down and do a one hour question and answer session then break it down into seven days worth of vids, but it gets damn old listening to opinions rather than providing assistance as he used to. So props to you for not going that route, and providing what I see as actual beneficial information to what I feel he does as watered down entertainment.
@@sr7376 well said my friend
Had to do this on both sides of my '95 Integra to pass inspection one year, I took the entire control arm off the car because I didn't have that special tool, but with a little WD40 the new bushings tapped in with a hammer fairly easily. And I had the exact same problem with the compensator arms, the bolt froze to the bushing. Bought a pair of used OEM comp arms on Ebay for $15, went to Honda for new bolts.
Hardrace makes these bushings too. Good alternative to the solid ones that can cause snap oversteer when driving hard.
You can buy just the cup part of the special tool and use a normal two jaw puller to press it in. It saves you about $60 over buying the whole tool.
Great info. I've always felt the Schley tool was/is overpriced for what it is and the fact of the matter is it's not really needed anyway, particularly to press out the old one. Simply cut out the rubber with a sawzall and then carefully cut two deep notches in the metal sleeve and hammer it out with your BFH....easy peasy. As Eric mentioned afterwards throw the new bushing in your freezer overnight, clean and grease the opening and then install it by pounding the hell out of it with the aforementioned BFH.
When I did the replacement on my 97 Toyota Tercel...I pressed it out from the front like on this video, but pressed it in from the back.
I too had a bit of a problem with it going in crooked as well.
I used my impact....much easier
I had to do my first one of those bushing yesterday. Its a horrible job but plenty of WD-40 makes it a lot easier
Much respect for the work you did here!
Suspension bolts are the devil's work - on EVERY car. Earlier this year, working on my drive, it took me hours just to undo two pinch bolts. Eventually I too had to use heat which fried the bushes and doubled the parts bill.
I've had so many fuck ups when using power tools, so I always loosen the suspension bolts with a breaker bar first.
@@panzerveps Suspension bolts are FAR more likely to break with a breaker bar as opposed to an impact wrench. With a breaker bar you're putting a high, sustained torque load on the bolt head, as opposed to an impact wrench which puts very short, sharp blows to the bolt head. Much less likely to break with the impact. And no not EVERY car has this problem. My Integra GSR suspension has been apart more times than I can count and I've never broken a bolt. I had to tap and chase the threads on my front shock fork pinch bolts, but that's about it. It just depends on the climate the car has lived in over the years. Luckily the first time I lowered the car in 2002 I had an impact wrench available and did not break any bolts.
Informative and entertaining - a lot of stuff hitting the floor there Eric!
I know its been 4 yrs + but I'd say anyone looking now, FREEZE the new bushings before or after chamfering the edges as Eric does- also you can hack saw a portion out of the bottom of the old busing when its still in the arm to remove the rubber and about 3/4" or so section of the steel ring at about 5-6 O' clock , then pry that 3/4" section out to release the tension of the bushing ring, then the whole ring will tap out or should with a hammer and screwdriver or other implement. I believe you can release the front of the trailing arm so it will just drop down after releasing the trailing arm side of the compensator arm to do the latter procedure. ..
Did the same job last summer, did not remember having issue with that tool installing the bushing. But I have to cut the bolt from that thing.
Now I have that tool and I don’t think I’ll have to use it again haha.
I don't know why I find these car repair videos so fascinating since I hate to work on cars. My neighbors ask me where I learned how to work on cars and I just say, "TH-cam".
Replacing suspension bushings is always a PITA. Even here in Florida, the suspension bolts tend to rust in place.
This is totally unrelated but if you remove the rubber trim around the rear wheel arches of 80's and 90's Hondas they won't rust. Reason being is the rubber trim holds in moisture, dirt, sand, and salt above the rear quarter panel lips on the backside.
Well done bruh! Thanks for all the infos and keep up the good work.
Thanks Eric as always… you’re the man!
The rear end on my 2004 Civic was making a "clunking" noise. I thought it was the rear shocks, but after watching this video these bushings may have been the culprit. I never even had any luck removing the lower bolt on the rear shock. I would have never gotten that hidden bolt out to remove the bushings.
Fire scares me when I am laying on the ground and only have 3 inches of clearance between my head and the torch. I sold the car, so someone else could deal with it. Great video, Eric!!
God Bless!!!! Even with that awesome tool it was a mission!!! I would blow that shit up out of pure frustration. More power to you👍