This is what is wrong with my bike!!! I am almost sure of it!! Thank you so much man, I have been struggling for over three years with different mechanics and none of them could find those o-rings some diddnt even find the problem to start with, thank you!
Great video, Mte. Now it's possible to show people the O-rings of the Emulsion Tube. I just had a total shoer that burned my minus and plus wire of the charging system out, the rectifier is destroyed, at least two diodes ordered a replacement. Thanks for the great video, keep them wheels rollin; mate.
Nice detail video Midland , I am currently working on a 1990 virago XV 750 Started out front cylinder was firing intermittently , I pulled the carb out and did a rejet while in the process of adjusting the rear float I snapped one of the float arm, tried to cement it , it work for a few days but not how it should , the bike will start up ok and I can drive the bike up to 40- 50 mph but any speed higher than 50 I have to used full choke , spark plugs look nice and grayish brown . So I pulled the carb out a day ago and found out the float with the cement was flimsy , just order a new float may be here by beginning of Jan.some time .Also I have a 1992 Yamaha Virago XV1100 one issue I have with this bike is that after the bike is warmed up and I go on the road and come to a stop light the bike does not want to go down to Idle speed , It will stay at 2000 rpm , some time I have to rev the engine and release the throttle then the rpm will drop to Idle .If any you Virago owner ever encounter this problem and had it fix , Please let me know what is the solution for this " stuck on high idle".
Hello. If you rev the bike and then the idle drops then you might have a degrading cable or a stiff/tight throttle mechanism. Spray some wd 40 to the mechanism and disconnect the cables to see if any of them stuck/stiff/grinding. The throttle must be completely free from any stiffness and should snap back to the idle screw even if only opened a tiny bit. If still bad you might have an air leak. Check the seal between the carb rubber and the cylinder head, (should be an o-ring in there) and also the vacuum sync caps could have cracks and will let air in, which will cause high idle..hope this helps
Hey brother, I know I write to you all over the videos lol, sorry about that. So I changed the coil, wires, resistor cap, spark plug. I removed my reserve tank, now the main tank goes directly to the filter and then the pump. I removed the emissions, air intake valve and the assembly. I also readjusted the valves in the cylinder like you did. The bike runs much better now, definitely sounds better and has more power. But I noticed my front cylinder is still getting way to much gas, it's too rich, and my spark plug is wet and has dry black soot like yours in the video. So it's causing a loss of power still (not as bad as before, but still). I'm going to pull my carbs off and check the floats, and then sync the carbs, and adjust the air/fuel mixture screws. Now, are the fuel/air mixture screws the same screws as the screws used to sync the carbs?
Hi, no problem. The screws are different. The sync screw is between the carbs at the bottom. The pilot screws are at the top of each carb under a black rubber plug. If you look at your carb for example the rear, you have 2 ends (1 is airbox side, the other is the cylinder head side) now look next to the top cover at the cylinder head side and you should find the black rubber plug, and under that the pliot screw. Now this is the last step to adjust, especially if the bike was running fine, then more than likely your problem is NOT the pilot screws. Before you take off the carbs measure the fuel level ( not float level) to do this prime the carbs with the pump until the pump only clicks once or not at all, that means it's full. Then get a transparent tube, put it on the drain hole and open the drain screw, leave it open and hold the tube against the carb to see the level which should be about 1mm below the line where the bowl and body meat (please check my "carb problem solved" video where I show this) procedure is the same just your carbs will be on the bike not in a vice.. Once you know your fuel level is right or not, then you can move to the rest of the carbs, this is the main thing with carbs, it MUST be right BEFORE anything else, this is where everyone gets it wrong and then trying to fix it with needle lifting and pilot screw adjusting (WRONG).. I'm not angry😂 just making the words stand out, so it's easier to remember😉 Hope I answered your questions 😉🔧
Great video - I just purchased a 93 Virago 1100 (my 1st bike). One of the carbs has a broken cover where the main jet screws in. I have only been able to locate the later style plastic slides, which leave the emulsion tube bare. Does anybody have a part number or source for this particular piece, shown at 4:20 in the video?
Mate, just a heads up. Your movies are great. I followed the other guy's (Pros DIY) advice and did not take out the float, using a screwdriver to bend it, but it broke the one plastic support part. Result: Needed a new float from the US, which is a pain in the you know where,.These parts are rooting to use so much force, I should have known that. Keep them wheels rollin'; mate.
Sorry to hear that mate...I hope you quickly get it from the States. I never liked using anything on them but my hand so I can feel it better what I'm doing. Anyway you should be ok now once you get it, all the best👍
@@MidlandCruiser All done and dusted. New cables from the new rectifier o the loom and battery, plus carbs are back in, running great. Keep them wheels rollin'; bro.
@@MidlandCruiser God, Buddha,. Mohammed and Ganesh! I had to change the whole wiring for the rectifier and put a new aftermarket Mosfet type one in, Firs problem was when the main fuse turned out to be no more usable, os making something with two fuses. Then I had to do the carbs, as you already know. The carbs worked, but when doing 190 km/h, the bike started acting weird and I had no idea what was wrong. Finally, I opened the TCI, saw some cold soldering points, and went to a TV repair shop to find a guy to do that. My lucky day!! A Thai biker who has a Moto Guzzi worked there and when he heard that the TCI was for an 1100 Yamaha which he knew,, he started ree soldering. After ten minutes it was done and I went home, put it back in. The bike rides well, god I wanted to burn the sucker, guess you know such moments, mate?! Now the China and US virus is at our school, too many people, teachers, and kids are sick. Stay safe, bro,. Best wishes from Taka Tuka soldier Thailand.
Great Video Mate, You have reminded me that I need to put my viton o-rings on my emulsion tubes too, just so that, I know my dual carbs are sorted & ready, if I ever have the need to go back to the dual carbs, but at the moment, I am enjoying my single carb setup far too much LoL :)
Thank you, really appreciate it... Not sure about the single carb. Is it just the simplicity of it over the dual or is there any other benefits? I rode a 2003 883 sportster which is a single Keihin and it felt alright, but my Virago is a rocket compared to that (obviously more cc so it's not fair). Maybe 1 day I'll give it a go. 🤷♂️
@@MidlandCruiser Well, You will lose some Top End Speed, But you will have a bit more Mid Range Grunt (which is where I cruise - between 2000 to 4500 RPM roughly) & you will get more MPG, but the best thing is, If you ever need to work on the carb, it's so easy, because it now sits out from between the cylinders, I can have my carb completely off in under 5 minutes or if you need to get to your Jets or Float, you can do that with the carb still attached which is good if you need to tinker with it on the roadside :)
I see. I really like the idea of the 5 min carb off situation and more midrange, but for now I leave mine alone, I have other plans for the winter.. You'll see😉
Hello, thank you for your suggestion... Unfortunately until I have a problem with it, I usually don't tuch stuff which works, however I am planning to do a check up on the starter motor bushings and general condition. And probably paint the housing because it is slightly rusty and it is driving me crazy😁 please consider subscribing so you don't miss it😉👍
Your videos have been a HUGE help with me working on my Virago, so I want to say thank you! One question though - what is the spec of the emulsion tube bolts? I couldn’t match the bolts to my metric tap/die set and want to replace them. Cheers
Thank you very much, really appreciate it. Them two little screws probably like 5Nm max (possibly less). I didn't use torque wrench on it, just went with feel. With thread lock on it, it should be fine as long as it isn't loose. Use a screwdriver type tool so you can't get too much leverage, and will be fine.
@@MidlandCruiser thanks for the reply, my choice of wording in my question was bad though - what bolt/thread size were the replacements you used? I had some on hand that fit but weirdly couldn’t verify the size against my metric thread dies (could be user error on my part). Refitted my carbs following your video and I’m now much more confident working on my bike, as hadn’t tackled that step before.
@@MotoJohn hello, sorry I missed the tap/die part. I think it is a standard M4 with 0.7mm pitch, could be M5 x0.8 though...I can'tremember. Hope this helps
Hi! Did you make sure to line up the hole on the plastic guillotine with the hole in the carb body? To me, it seems like you can fit it 180 degrees off.
If I remember correctly then it won't matter which way it is because the air can get where it needs to be, because it has an o-ring above and below the hole on the plastic tube, so in the casting the air is all around that part of the plastic tube, I hope it make sense
@@MidlandCruiser Thank you. I have had my carbs sonically cleaned, and the cleaner removed the tubes. I could only get 1.2 mm O-rings, which are not very tight, and now the bike starts well and run OK-ish for 10 miles, then become progressively worse with stutters and cutting out. The spark plugs both look like your black one. Since I have also fitted a new aftermarket TCI and new, simpler wiring harness and a new exhaust, I have been at loss as to where the problem is located. So I felt relieved when I found your video, because it gives me a place to start. Will get 1.5mm O-rings (viton) on Monday. Thanks again! Eirik
@@MidlandCruiser thanks! I am restoring an 88 1100 and saw your video then checked my tubes and orings are shot! Been sitting for 20 years since last ran
What’s the plastic piece called; I can’t find one online to order. My jet just spins infinately so assume I need to get a new one. Also broke screw head holding it in place
Hello, you don't necessarily need a new one of those if only the spinning is the problem because with a long nose plier you can grab the top end of the brass emulsion tube (gently though) and tight up the jet. If you striped that security torx bolt than sorry to hear it, it is thread locked in and made of soft metal, you could drill it out but be very careful.
Any way you could include part numbers and vendor name for o rings and needle valve seats? As well as where you got the jet you use? I’m running a similar set up on my virago 750, stock air but open exhaust. Thanks!
Hello, any virago carb parts you could possibly need can be found here nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/manufacturer/info&manufacturer_id=14&page=75 They sell quality parts, mostly Keyster products which I also use along with genuine Yamaha parts. For O-rings I use ebay or simplybearnigs.co.uk however they are a bit pricey. I hope this helps.
Ohh dear, then possibly someone before you stripped them, you must use heat to melt the thread lock, only from the outside though. Then you can try to use some extractor bits, it is made from monkey metal and strip very very easily unfortunately.
@@MidlandCruiser Mine is a 1992, not sure if the design is different. I'm the first person to rebuild these since factory, so they are not stripped. I'd send you a picture, but it looks like the screw heads are a cross between torx and allen/hex screws. I have tried both wrench types and none work. Very strange.
@@MidlandCruiser Actually, I watched your video again, it does look like the same screw head. You also said how difficult it was to get out. Mine doesn't seem to have a wrench that wants to fit it. Strange.
@@Augcliffe yes it was difficult because I knew about the threadlock and the soft material and didn't want to strip it, so I was extra careful..you can send me some pictures if you want to, in email to midlandcruiser@gmail.com
Are they the Torx anti theft heads? If I remember from doing mine it might be size20. I had to buy a little set of bits to fit a socket. Felt very delicate removing them from the plastic so be gentle and patient 👍
Also, I noticed in your other video, your bike doesn't have any emissions or egr valves underneath the fish eye bubble cover on your left side of the bike. Mine does because it's in the US. Is it possible for my to bypass and delete everything under that cover? (The egr valve, filter, etc...) I want to completely remove the left side bubble cover and the black bracket that holds the filter, egr, etc... So nothing it there. I removed the right side bubble cover already, since the stock air intake assembly is no longer on there
Yes that is removable completely, but I'm not familiar with the process as we in the UK don't have that like you said... I'm sure there is a youtube video about it, and the Virago nation group on Facebook has loads of info so might want to check it out as well...
Hello. I have detailed videos about fully stripping these carbs and also a separate one just about float/fuel level settings Fuel level video th-cam.com/video/LREsazlZjhg/w-d-xo.html Full carb strip video th-cam.com/video/KYdmgGYJc9I/w-d-xo.html I show in both how to remove the float shafts...
Hey brother, I did the exact same thing you did. My float I set exactly the same way you did. When I re installed my carb to the bike, fuel was pouring out of the overflow tube. I don't understand
@devin usa That's strange, however it happened to me too if I left them empty for a few hours... Drain it half empty, then hit the bowl with a screwdriver handle, then prime it with the pump and keep hitting it, if this time everything is fine then you have your float stuck on the bottom when the carb is empty and it isn't coming up as it fills up. Watch my carb installation video where you can see I explain the situation and how I fixed the problem with a little solder on the needle valve housing so the float doesn't go that far down. I hope I'm explained it right. If the float goes down enough just to open the valve that's enough, it doesn't need more... What really matters is the top position th-cam.com/video/2Rx4pVpChwo/w-d-xo.html
@@MidlandCruiser I think the tang for the float is worn out, I had to sit the float to be leaner, about 30 degrees, just to stop it from flooding. I'm going to switch to a single carb. It's miserable installing these dual carbs. Yamaha did a poor job at designs when it came to these carb placements
Yes they are not the best to work on, but they can work fine after many hours of work😉 I wish you good luck witht he single carb, if you don't want too much troubles then I suggest Adam Smith on Facebook Virago-Nation group who makes, possibly the best ones of the manifolds. 👍
@@MidlandCruiser thank you brother. I contacted Adam today and will purchase from him in a few weeks. . After 10 hours, I removed, fixed and installed the carbs back on. I've never had so much trouble with any carbs before, yamaha hates us lol
@@dl2.504B Adam's manifold should be fine, and if your carb needs tweaking then it'll be 5 min to pop it off, I do understand why would you go single carb. I hope you get it sorted and can enjoy it over the summer.. All the best 😉
The plastic emulsion tube on mine is cracked. I cant for the life of me find a part number let alone a replacement part. This is causing my diaphragm assembly to not move properly. I’ve looked in fourms and countless diagrams and cant find any information. Please help!
Unfortunately that part is like rocking hore shit...you could possibly get a new (2nd hand) carb assembly easier. Also you could try and glue it, there are special glue available for using it in fuel, to be fair can't get worse than it is. To be fully honest I don't think that is a separate part which you can buy, it isn't meant to be taken out of the body. Hope this helps a little
Yes, that is the one, however on the top side on the emulsion tube this O ring is quite tight, use silicone spray and clean the hole in the carb casting thoroughly. I even used 400grit wet and dry to make it smooth and it was still a bastard to push it back in.
@@MidlandCruiser Thanks, I noticed the top groove is not as deep and the hole in the carb casting is slightly tapered... I have not been able to find anywhere that actually lists the correct size for these orings... I wondered if they where different sizes to compensate for the shallow groove?
@@MidlandCruiser it starts up and will run if I have the choke full throttle, but I can’t get it to pump up past zero rpm and it eventually just shuts off. It’s making like a hissing noise too
Hissing noise can indicate an air leak. There are 2 rubber cover over the sync nipples on the rubber manifolds, which connects the carbs to the cylinder heads. Make sure they are in place and not cracked /perished. Check the bolts holding them to the head to make sure they're tight. If it's running ok on choke but stalls without it, then it's lean which can be caused by the problems above. Hope this helps
Hey brother. Hope all is well. So my virago 1100 front cylinder is still acting up. I changed the resister cap, the coil and wires, and it still misfires. I put new plugs in it 2 weeks ago, and the rear cylinder and new spark plug is running fine, but the new spark plug in the front is misfiring unless I pull the resister cap off half way. So I threw the old spark plug back on the front cylinder and it doesn't misfire at the moment. I think my carbs are running rich, because there's black soot on the plugs. Could rich carbs cause the misfire because of too much fuel in the front cylinder? And if so, do you know how I can readjust the fuel/air mixture on the carbs for the virago 1100? Someone in a forum said the fuel/air mixture screws are covered by a brass plug/cap so people can't mess with it. I need help, you're the only one I found with any actual knowledge of working on a virago
First of all, thank you... 😉 So misfire can be caused by too rich condition. If it's happening on low throttle opening and/or idle then the pilot mixture screw can help yes. On the 1100 if it's after 88 then you have Mikuni carbs which will have a black rubber plug covering them instead a brass plug. If you have an older then you have Hitachi on it which is crap all together and also I have no experience with, so everything I say is apply to the Mikuni. I'm pretty sure you have a carb issue and not ignition as you changed everything and still not right, and also went back to the old plug and it's fine now.. So I'd focus on the carbs. Unfortunately there is so much to check/do that I literally would run out of space here. 1st I would do is fuel level check, easy to do and I show it in the video how to do it, just on the vice, but the procedure is the same if it's on the bike.. Low or high are both not good, it needs to be right. 2nd would be to check how far your pilot screws are out now, just turn them in and count how many turns until stops lightly, you can use a small hex driver bit to be able to turn it as the space is very limited. To be fully honest you may need to pull the carbs, fully strip them, then clean them (ultrasonic cleaner preferred) re set everything to stock and fine tune it once running again, including sync. Unfortunately this isn't an easy thing to do. I could help you but you are in the US, sorry. If everything is stock (intake and exhaust) then your carb setup will need to be at the stock settings (fuel level, needle position, pilot screw positions, and all the jets) stock pilot screw setting is 2 out on the front and 2 and 1/2 on the rear, both needle clip in the middle position, and fuel level around 0 to - 1.5mm below the carb body seal surface as shown in the video.... Hope this helps a little
@@MidlandCruiser my virago 1100 is a 1991. And I took out the carbs when I first got it, and cleaned the carbs out, the float seemed good, as did the jets and pilots and gaskets. So I believe I just need to readjust the fuel/air mixture. I'll serch for the mixture screws and attempt to resync them. My virago 1100 came with drag pipes and an aftermarket air intake/filter. So I'm thinking maybe the prior owner could have readjusted the air/fuel mixture to be more lean, to compensate for the drag pipes (they do have baffles in them), so the bike didn't run to lean. But I think he over did it, and now it's too rich. I appreciate your help, and your advice is definitely appreciated and very helpful, even if we are over seas from each other. I'll work on the mixture, and let you know how it came out. You've definitely inspired me to work on this bike more and more!
@devin usa Seems like you have quite a bit a of modifications on, so I would recommend going up 1 size in the main jet, and about 2.5 turns out on the front and 2.75 on the rear, and leave everything else in the stock position (needle clip, and fuel level, not float level-important) When I said sync them I meant the butterfly valves not the pilot screws. The pilot screws are on the top and on the cylinder head side of the carb inder a black rubber cover. I was going to put together a carb setup video series but got busy with other stuff and now I won't be able to do it until summer.. I hope you get it sorted 👍
hi mate, my rear cylinder keeps flooding, the float level is spot on, ? im trying to take out the plastic emoltion tube slide i got the security screws out but i cant get the plastic slide out any ideas thanks
Hi. If both screws are out there is nothing else holding it but the o-rings. Try heating up the carb body with a heatgun to expand it a little around the tube. Also worth checking is to make sure your float does not get jammed against the bowl. If you check my carb installation video I'll explain the problem what I had, and how I solved it... Any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. 👍
Hi, how many turns should the air screw be turned out on a aftermarket freeflow exhaust, i have got 117.5 main jets in both carburators is this the correct size, pilot jets is 40
Hi. For my 1997 XV1100 I used 127.5 for the front cylinder and 125 for the rear, for my free flow exhaust..the front cylinder needs more fuel because the way the airbox is designed. You didn’t mention what year or bike you have so I can only tell you what I use. I think I will try 1 more size up on the main jets this year, because on full throttle it still feels a bit flat. I turned out the pilot fuel screws 3 turns roughly on both... This is only for the viragos which are equipped with the dual Mikuni BST40 carbs, if you have a different one then all this is invalid...hope it helps anyway 😉
@@MidlandCruiser Hi, thank you for the reply, i own the Yamaha Virago XV1100 1998, dumb question but the front cylinder is the one closest to the front wheel(some guys say the front cylinder is the one closest to the rear wheel and that cylinder needs the bigger jet because it is running hotter than the cylinder closest to the front wheel) The jets i have now is 126 and a 125, it is one hell of a struggle to get parts for the virago in south africa. I suppose the 126 and 126 jet is better than the 117 i had in? I do have the BST40 Mikuni carbs fitted as you said. Regards.
@@bertusnolte512 hello, yes the way I said it was the way you sit on it. Front (called as Number 2 cylinder sometimes) is the one closer to the front wheel. Number 1 Cylinder is the rear which is closer to the reserve fuel tank... Whoever said you need bigger jet in the rear (No 1) is wrong. If you are running the stock airbox then you need the bigger jet in the front (No2) the one closer to the front wheel. So make sure your jets are put in that way. As I mentioned before it is because the way the airbox is designed and not because the rear runs hotter..
@@MidlandCruiserHi, the pilot screw( fuel/ airscrew) does the steel washer fit over the shaft with the spring or does the steel washer only hold the oring in its place with the springs tension when the pilot screw is turned?
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This is what is wrong with my bike!!! I am almost sure of it!! Thank you so much man, I have been struggling for over three years with different mechanics and none of them could find those o-rings some diddnt even find the problem to start with, thank you!
Great video, Mte. Now it's possible to show people the O-rings of the Emulsion Tube. I just had a total shoer that burned my minus and plus wire of the charging system out, the rectifier is destroyed, at least two diodes ordered a replacement. Thanks for the great video, keep them wheels rollin; mate.
Nice detail video Midland , I am currently working on a 1990 virago XV 750 Started out front cylinder was firing intermittently , I pulled the carb out and did a rejet while in the process of adjusting the rear float I snapped one of the float arm, tried to cement it , it work for a few days but not how it should , the bike will start up ok and I can drive the bike up to 40- 50 mph but any speed higher than 50 I have to used full choke , spark plugs look nice and grayish brown . So I pulled the carb out a day ago and found out the float with the cement was flimsy , just order a new float may be here by beginning of Jan.some time .Also I have a 1992 Yamaha Virago XV1100 one issue I have with this bike is that after the bike is warmed up and I go on the road and come to a stop light the bike does not want to go down to Idle speed , It will stay at 2000 rpm , some time I have to rev the engine and release the throttle then the rpm will drop to Idle .If any you Virago owner ever encounter this problem and had it fix , Please let me know what is the solution for this " stuck on high idle".
Hello. If you rev the bike and then the idle drops then you might have a degrading cable or a stiff/tight throttle mechanism. Spray some wd 40 to the mechanism and disconnect the cables to see if any of them stuck/stiff/grinding. The throttle must be completely free from any stiffness and should snap back to the idle screw even if only opened a tiny bit.
If still bad you might have an air leak. Check the seal between the carb rubber and the cylinder head, (should be an o-ring in there) and also the vacuum sync caps could have cracks and will let air in, which will cause high idle..hope this helps
Hey brother, I know I write to you all over the videos lol, sorry about that. So I changed the coil, wires, resistor cap, spark plug. I removed my reserve tank, now the main tank goes directly to the filter and then the pump. I removed the emissions, air intake valve and the assembly. I also readjusted the valves in the cylinder like you did. The bike runs much better now, definitely sounds better and has more power. But I noticed my front cylinder is still getting way to much gas, it's too rich, and my spark plug is wet and has dry black soot like yours in the video. So it's causing a loss of power still (not as bad as before, but still). I'm going to pull my carbs off and check the floats, and then sync the carbs, and adjust the air/fuel mixture screws. Now, are the fuel/air mixture screws the same screws as the screws used to sync the carbs?
Hi, no problem. The screws are different. The sync screw is between the carbs at the bottom.
The pilot screws are at the top of each carb under a black rubber plug. If you look at your carb for example the rear, you have 2 ends (1 is airbox side, the other is the cylinder head side) now look next to the top cover at the cylinder head side and you should find the black rubber plug, and under that the pliot screw.
Now this is the last step to adjust, especially if the bike was running fine, then more than likely your problem is NOT the pilot screws.
Before you take off the carbs measure the fuel level ( not float level) to do this prime the carbs with the pump until the pump only clicks once or not at all, that means it's full.
Then get a transparent tube, put it on the drain hole and open the drain screw, leave it open and hold the tube against the carb to see the level which should be about 1mm below the line where the bowl and body meat (please check my "carb problem solved" video where I show this) procedure is the same just your carbs will be on the bike not in a vice..
Once you know your fuel level is right or not, then you can move to the rest of the carbs, this is the main thing with carbs, it MUST be right BEFORE anything else, this is where everyone gets it wrong and then trying to fix it with needle lifting and pilot screw adjusting (WRONG).. I'm not angry😂 just making the words stand out, so it's easier to remember😉
Hope I answered your questions 😉🔧
It was a great, adventurous video. Thank you for it. Glad that the "Beast" is roaring again:)
Thank you... Yes it is back and goes like sh..t of the shovel 😁👍
Great video - I just purchased a 93 Virago 1100 (my 1st bike). One of the carbs has a broken cover where the main jet screws in. I have only been able to locate the later style plastic slides, which leave the emulsion tube bare. Does anybody have a part number or source for this particular piece, shown at 4:20 in the video?
Mate, just a heads up. Your movies are great. I followed the other guy's (Pros DIY) advice and did not take out the float, using a screwdriver to bend it, but it broke the one plastic support part. Result: Needed a new float from the US, which is a pain in the you know where,.These parts are rooting to use so much force, I should have known that. Keep them wheels rollin'; mate.
Sorry to hear that mate...I hope you quickly get it from the States. I never liked using anything on them but my hand so I can feel it better what I'm doing. Anyway you should be ok now once you get it, all the best👍
@@MidlandCruiser All done and dusted. New cables from the new rectifier o the loom and battery, plus carbs are back in, running great. Keep them wheels rollin'; bro.
@@MidlandCruiser God, Buddha,. Mohammed and Ganesh! I had to change the whole wiring for the rectifier and put a new aftermarket Mosfet type one in, Firs problem was when the main fuse turned out to be no more usable, os making something with two fuses. Then I had to do the carbs, as you already know. The carbs worked, but when doing 190 km/h, the bike started acting weird and I had no idea what was wrong. Finally, I opened the TCI, saw some cold soldering points, and went to a TV repair shop to find a guy to do that. My lucky day!! A Thai biker who has a Moto Guzzi worked there and when he heard that the TCI was for an 1100 Yamaha which he knew,, he started ree soldering. After ten minutes it was done and I went home, put it back in. The bike rides well, god I wanted to burn the sucker, guess you know such moments, mate?! Now the China and US virus is at our school, too many people, teachers, and kids are sick. Stay safe, bro,. Best wishes from Taka Tuka soldier Thailand.
Just a note.... those are Mikuni carbs. The Hitachi carbs are a bit different.
Szuper Öregem rátaláltál a hibára . Yesssss congratulation Great job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Köszi Öreg. Nem volt túl bonyolult, ra jönni, viszont meg javitani, ahh.. Kicsit szivatott😁
Excellent mate, great vid, well done...
Great Video Mate, You have reminded me that I need to put my viton o-rings on my emulsion tubes too, just so that, I know my dual carbs are sorted & ready, if I ever have the need to go back to the dual carbs, but at the moment, I am enjoying my single carb setup far too much LoL :)
Thank you, really appreciate it... Not sure about the single carb. Is it just the simplicity of it over the dual or is there any other benefits? I rode a 2003 883 sportster which is a single Keihin and it felt alright, but my Virago is a rocket compared to that (obviously more cc so it's not fair).
Maybe 1 day I'll give it a go. 🤷♂️
@@MidlandCruiser Well, You will lose some Top End Speed, But you will have a bit more Mid Range Grunt (which is where I cruise - between 2000 to 4500 RPM roughly) & you will get more MPG, but the best thing is, If you ever need to work on the carb, it's so easy, because it now sits out from between the cylinders, I can have my carb completely off in under 5 minutes or if you need to get to your Jets or Float, you can do that with the carb still attached which is good if you need to tinker with it on the roadside :)
I see. I really like the idea of the 5 min carb off situation and more midrange, but for now I leave mine alone, I have other plans for the winter.. You'll see😉
you should do a video on how to change the starter motor and solinoid
Hello, thank you for your suggestion... Unfortunately until I have a problem with it, I usually don't tuch stuff which works, however I am planning to do a check up on the starter motor bushings and general condition. And probably paint the housing because it is slightly rusty and it is driving me crazy😁 please consider subscribing so you don't miss it😉👍
Your videos have been a HUGE help with me working on my Virago, so I want to say thank you! One question though - what is the spec of the emulsion tube bolts? I couldn’t match the bolts to my metric tap/die set and want to replace them. Cheers
Thank you very much, really appreciate it. Them two little screws probably like 5Nm max (possibly less). I didn't use torque wrench on it, just went with feel. With thread lock on it, it should be fine as long as it isn't loose. Use a screwdriver type tool so you can't get too much leverage, and will be fine.
@@MidlandCruiser thanks for the reply, my choice of wording in my question was bad though - what bolt/thread size were the replacements you used? I had some on hand that fit but weirdly couldn’t verify the size against my metric thread dies (could be user error on my part).
Refitted my carbs following your video and I’m now much more confident working on my bike, as hadn’t tackled that step before.
@@MotoJohn hello, sorry I missed the tap/die part. I think it is a standard M4 with 0.7mm pitch, could be M5 x0.8 though...I can'tremember. Hope this helps
Hi! Did you make sure to line up the hole on the plastic guillotine with the hole in the carb body? To me, it seems like you can fit it 180 degrees off.
If I remember correctly then it won't matter which way it is because the air can get where it needs to be, because it has an o-ring above and below the hole on the plastic tube, so in the casting the air is all around that part of the plastic tube, I hope it make sense
@@MidlandCruiser Thank you. I have had my carbs sonically cleaned, and the cleaner removed the tubes. I could only get 1.2 mm O-rings, which are not very tight, and now the bike starts well and run OK-ish for 10 miles, then become progressively worse with stutters and cutting out. The spark plugs both look like your black one. Since I have also fitted a new aftermarket TCI and new, simpler wiring harness and a new exhaust, I have been at loss as to where the problem is located. So I felt relieved when I found your video, because it gives me a place to start. Will get 1.5mm O-rings (viton) on Monday. Thanks again! Eirik
I need those orings for the emulsion tube and can’t find what you’re have
Hello. You don't necessarily need viton o-rings you can use nitrile and the size should be a standard 10x1.5mm.
@@MidlandCruiser thanks! I am restoring an 88 1100 and saw your video then checked my tubes and orings are shot! Been sitting for 20 years since last ran
What’s the plastic piece called; I can’t find one online to order. My jet just spins infinately so assume I need to get a new one. Also broke screw head holding it in place
Hello, you don't necessarily need a new one of those if only the spinning is the problem because with a long nose plier you can grab the top end of the brass emulsion tube (gently though) and tight up the jet. If you striped that security torx bolt than sorry to hear it, it is thread locked in and made of soft metal, you could drill it out but be very careful.
Any way you could include part numbers and vendor name for o rings and needle valve seats? As well as where you got the jet you use? I’m running a similar set up on my virago 750, stock air but open exhaust. Thanks!
Hello, any virago carb parts you could possibly need can be found here nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/manufacturer/info&manufacturer_id=14&page=75
They sell quality parts, mostly Keyster products which I also use along with genuine Yamaha parts.
For O-rings I use ebay or simplybearnigs.co.uk however they are a bit pricey.
I hope this helps.
Brother, @3:12 how do you get these plastic pieces out? Allen keys and torx bit's don't seem to fit...
Ohh dear, then possibly someone before you stripped them, you must use heat to melt the thread lock, only from the outside though. Then you can try to use some extractor bits, it is made from monkey metal and strip very very easily unfortunately.
@@MidlandCruiser Mine is a 1992, not sure if the design is different. I'm the first person to rebuild these since factory, so they are not stripped. I'd send you a picture, but it looks like the screw heads are a cross between torx and allen/hex screws. I have tried both wrench types and none work. Very strange.
@@MidlandCruiser Actually, I watched your video again, it does look like the same screw head. You also said how difficult it was to get out. Mine doesn't seem to have a wrench that wants to fit it. Strange.
@@Augcliffe yes it was difficult because I knew about the threadlock and the soft material and didn't want to strip it, so I was extra careful..you can send me some pictures if you want to, in email to midlandcruiser@gmail.com
Are they the Torx anti theft heads? If I remember from doing mine it might be size20. I had to buy a little set of bits to fit a socket. Felt very delicate removing them from the plastic so be gentle and patient 👍
Also, I noticed in your other video, your bike doesn't have any emissions or egr valves underneath the fish eye bubble cover on your left side of the bike. Mine does because it's in the US. Is it possible for my to bypass and delete everything under that cover? (The egr valve, filter, etc...) I want to completely remove the left side bubble cover and the black bracket that holds the filter, egr, etc... So nothing it there. I removed the right side bubble cover already, since the stock air intake assembly is no longer on there
Yes that is removable completely, but I'm not familiar with the process as we in the UK don't have that like you said... I'm sure there is a youtube video about it, and the Virago nation group on Facebook has loads of info so might want to check it out as well...
@@MidlandCruiser awesome I'll check it out! Thank you brother!
How did you remove the shaft for the float? Would have been idea of how you dismantled the carb 🤷♂️
Hello. I have detailed videos about fully stripping these carbs and also a separate one just about float/fuel level settings
Fuel level video th-cam.com/video/LREsazlZjhg/w-d-xo.html
Full carb strip video th-cam.com/video/KYdmgGYJc9I/w-d-xo.html
I show in both how to remove the float shafts...
Hey brother, I did the exact same thing you did. My float I set exactly the same way you did. When I re installed my carb to the bike, fuel was pouring out of the overflow tube. I don't understand
@devin usa That's strange, however it happened to me too if I left them empty for a few hours... Drain it half empty, then hit the bowl with a screwdriver handle, then prime it with the pump and keep hitting it, if this time everything is fine then you have your float stuck on the bottom when the carb is empty and it isn't coming up as it fills up.
Watch my carb installation video where you can see I explain the situation and how I fixed the problem with a little solder on the needle valve housing so the float doesn't go that far down. I hope I'm explained it right. If the float goes down enough just to open the valve that's enough, it doesn't need more... What really matters is the top position
th-cam.com/video/2Rx4pVpChwo/w-d-xo.html
@@MidlandCruiser I think the tang for the float is worn out, I had to sit the float to be leaner, about 30 degrees, just to stop it from flooding. I'm going to switch to a single carb. It's miserable installing these dual carbs. Yamaha did a poor job at designs when it came to these carb placements
Yes they are not the best to work on, but they can work fine after many hours of work😉 I wish you good luck witht he single carb, if you don't want too much troubles then I suggest Adam Smith on Facebook Virago-Nation group who makes, possibly the best ones of the manifolds. 👍
@@MidlandCruiser thank you brother. I contacted Adam today and will purchase from him in a few weeks. . After 10 hours, I removed, fixed and installed the carbs back on. I've never had so much trouble with any carbs before, yamaha hates us lol
@@dl2.504B Adam's manifold should be fine, and if your carb needs tweaking then it'll be 5 min to pop it off, I do understand why would you go single carb. I hope you get it sorted and can enjoy it over the summer.. All the best 😉
The plastic emulsion tube on mine is cracked. I cant for the life of me find a part number let alone a replacement part. This is causing my diaphragm assembly to not move properly. I’ve looked in fourms and countless diagrams and cant find any information. Please help!
Unfortunately that part is like rocking hore shit...you could possibly get a new (2nd hand) carb assembly easier. Also you could try and glue it, there are special glue available for using it in fuel, to be fair can't get worse than it is. To be fully honest I don't think that is a separate part which you can buy, it isn't meant to be taken out of the body. Hope this helps a little
Can you confirm if the viton orings you fitted are original size? I see you replaced them with 10 x 1.5mm orings...
Yes, that is the one, however on the top side on the emulsion tube this O ring is quite tight, use silicone spray and clean the hole in the carb casting thoroughly. I even used 400grit wet and dry to make it smooth and it was still a bastard to push it back in.
@@MidlandCruiser Thanks, I noticed the top groove is not as deep and the hole in the carb casting is slightly tapered... I have not been able to find anywhere that actually lists the correct size for these orings... I wondered if they where different sizes to compensate for the shallow groove?
Wondering if you can help me, my xv1100 92 will fire but does when it try’s to idle, I think it’s a fuel issue to but idk, any help is appreciated
Hello I'm sorry but not sure what you mean. It fires when it tries to idle? Or runs fine but doesn't fire when tries to idle?
@@MidlandCruiser it starts up and will run if I have the choke full throttle, but I can’t get it to pump up past zero rpm and it eventually just shuts off. It’s making like a hissing noise too
Hissing noise can indicate an air leak. There are 2 rubber cover over the sync nipples on the rubber manifolds, which connects the carbs to the cylinder heads. Make sure they are in place and not cracked /perished. Check the bolts holding them to the head to make sure they're tight. If it's running ok on choke but stalls without it, then it's lean which can be caused by the problems above. Hope this helps
Hey brother. Hope all is well. So my virago 1100 front cylinder is still acting up. I changed the resister cap, the coil and wires, and it still misfires. I put new plugs in it 2 weeks ago, and the rear cylinder and new spark plug is running fine, but the new spark plug in the front is misfiring unless I pull the resister cap off half way. So I threw the old spark plug back on the front cylinder and it doesn't misfire at the moment. I think my carbs are running rich, because there's black soot on the plugs. Could rich carbs cause the misfire because of too much fuel in the front cylinder? And if so, do you know how I can readjust the fuel/air mixture on the carbs for the virago 1100? Someone in a forum said the fuel/air mixture screws are covered by a brass plug/cap so people can't mess with it. I need help, you're the only one I found with any actual knowledge of working on a virago
First of all, thank you... 😉
So misfire can be caused by too rich condition. If it's happening on low throttle opening and/or idle then the pilot mixture screw can help yes. On the 1100 if it's after 88 then you have Mikuni carbs which will have a black rubber plug covering them instead a brass plug. If you have an older then you have Hitachi on it which is crap all together and also I have no experience with, so everything I say is apply to the Mikuni.
I'm pretty sure you have a carb issue and not ignition as you changed everything and still not right, and also went back to the old plug and it's fine now.. So I'd focus on the carbs.
Unfortunately there is so much to check/do that I literally would run out of space here.
1st I would do is fuel level check, easy to do and I show it in the video how to do it, just on the vice, but the procedure is the same if it's on the bike.. Low or high are both not good, it needs to be right.
2nd would be to check how far your pilot screws are out now, just turn them in and count how many turns until stops lightly, you can use a small hex driver bit to be able to turn it as the space is very limited.
To be fully honest you may need to pull the carbs, fully strip them, then clean them (ultrasonic cleaner preferred) re set everything to stock and fine tune it once running again, including sync. Unfortunately this isn't an easy thing to do. I could help you but you are in the US, sorry.
If everything is stock (intake and exhaust) then your carb setup will need to be at the stock settings (fuel level, needle position, pilot screw positions, and all the jets) stock pilot screw setting is 2 out on the front and 2 and 1/2 on the rear, both needle clip in the middle position, and fuel level around 0 to - 1.5mm below the carb body seal surface as shown in the video.... Hope this helps a little
@@MidlandCruiser my virago 1100 is a 1991. And I took out the carbs when I first got it, and cleaned the carbs out, the float seemed good, as did the jets and pilots and gaskets. So I believe I just need to readjust the fuel/air mixture. I'll serch for the mixture screws and attempt to resync them. My virago 1100 came with drag pipes and an aftermarket air intake/filter. So I'm thinking maybe the prior owner could have readjusted the air/fuel mixture to be more lean, to compensate for the drag pipes (they do have baffles in them), so the bike didn't run to lean. But I think he over did it, and now it's too rich.
I appreciate your help, and your advice is definitely appreciated and very helpful, even if we are over seas from each other. I'll work on the mixture, and let you know how it came out. You've definitely inspired me to work on this bike more and more!
@devin usa Seems like you have quite a bit a of modifications on, so I would recommend going up 1 size in the main jet, and about 2.5 turns out on the front and 2.75 on the rear, and leave everything else in the stock position (needle clip, and fuel level, not float level-important)
When I said sync them I meant the butterfly valves not the pilot screws. The pilot screws are on the top and on the cylinder head side of the carb inder a black rubber cover. I was going to put together a carb setup video series but got busy with other stuff and now I won't be able to do it until summer.. I hope you get it sorted 👍
hi mate, my rear cylinder keeps flooding, the float level is spot on, ? im trying to take out the plastic emoltion tube slide i got the security screws out but i cant get the plastic slide out any ideas thanks
Hi. If both screws are out there is nothing else holding it but the o-rings. Try heating up the carb body with a heatgun to expand it a little around the tube. Also worth checking is to make sure your float does not get jammed against the bowl. If you check my carb installation video I'll explain the problem what I had, and how I solved it... Any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. 👍
@@MidlandCruiser thanks mate have you seen sammy milller motorcycle vids yet
Your welcome. No I haven't...I'll check his channel out
Thks awesome
merci Thank you
Hi, how many turns should the air screw be turned out on a aftermarket freeflow exhaust, i have got 117.5 main jets in both carburators is this the correct size, pilot jets is 40
Hi. For my 1997 XV1100 I used 127.5 for the front cylinder and 125 for the rear, for my free flow exhaust..the front cylinder needs more fuel because the way the airbox is designed. You didn’t mention what year or bike you have so I can only tell you what I use.
I think I will try 1 more size up on the main jets this year, because on full throttle it still feels a bit flat.
I turned out the pilot fuel screws 3 turns roughly on both...
This is only for the viragos which are equipped with the dual Mikuni BST40 carbs, if you have a different one then all this is invalid...hope it helps anyway 😉
@@MidlandCruiser Hi, thank you for the reply, i own the Yamaha Virago XV1100 1998, dumb question but the front cylinder is the one closest to the front wheel(some guys say the front cylinder is the one closest to the rear wheel and that cylinder needs the bigger jet because it is running hotter than the cylinder closest to the front wheel)
The jets i have now is 126 and a 125, it is one hell of a struggle to get parts for the virago in south africa. I suppose the 126 and 126 jet is better than the 117 i had in?
I do have the BST40 Mikuni carbs fitted as you said.
Regards.
@@bertusnolte512 hello, yes the way I said it was the way you sit on it. Front (called as Number 2 cylinder sometimes) is the one closer to the front wheel.
Number 1 Cylinder is the rear which is closer to the reserve fuel tank...
Whoever said you need bigger jet in the rear (No 1) is wrong. If you are running the stock airbox then you need the bigger jet in the front (No2) the one closer to the front wheel. So make sure your jets are put in that way.
As I mentioned before it is because the way the airbox is designed and not because the rear runs hotter..
@@MidlandCruiserHi, the pilot screw( fuel/ airscrew) does the steel washer fit over the shaft with the spring or does the steel washer only hold the oring in its place with the springs tension when the pilot screw is turned?