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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2018
- Replacing the needle valve set. Adjusting float height, rejetting, and pilot screw adjustment on 1997 Yamaha Virago XV1100 Mikuni motorcycle carburetors. Same as models 1988-1999
Update: After reinstalling the carburetors you should synchronize them. It is also important to check the boot connections from the carburetors to the intake and to the heads. This can be done by spraying carb cleaner on the boots as the engine is running. If the idle changes, you have a leak. These air leaks can cause a lean burning condition and could cause backfiring or popping on deceleration. Mine were leaking and I ordered new boots and o-rings. The bike now runs great and has noticeably more power and responsiveness.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
Carb Kit: 18-5185: geni.us/4W2k
Carb Kit: 18-2596: geni.us/PK4e
Carb Cleaner: geni.us/uKK74u
1988-1999 YAMAHA XV1100 Cobra Jet Kit: geni.us/hhCxh
Intake Manifold Boots: geni.us/b4pqMj5
Carb Synchronizer: geni.us/kjv809
Chrome Polish: geni.us/p6PoVJI
1986-1999 Virago XV1100: Cobra Exhaust: geni.us/lrUT
Muffler Gasket 3EG-14714-00-00: geni.us/i23CWH
𝗦𝘂𝗽𝗽𝗼𝗿𝘁
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Thank you for your effort, very helpful, I have added this to my interested videos for when I do my carb rebuild. May the freedom of the road be with you and remain.
Thanks hightechred!
I've got a 750 cc model from 1995. This was helpful, thanks. 👍🏻
Thankyou, outstanding, accidently put 2-stroke into my late '97 XV1100 and result was backfiring, flames and would not start. Bike was fully serviced in 2018 (carburettors new kits) by Yamaha dealer (yes, they got it running, but replaced the front tyre and fitted it wrong way round!) but I was living back in Israel, got back pre-covid insanity and stuck here in Australia, so getting this faithful friend back in order. Has only genuine 18,000Klms and has torque to burn. And such a comfortable bike. Sold my Honda 1000 sports bike (Fireblade) as I was destined for an early exit on that thing!! Great video, and so much other great stuff on your Pros DIY Site!! Thanks so much!!
Thank you Alastair Murray!
Thanks for this video. Just ran into this trouble myself and also made a tool like your paperclip. However it was kinda wedged in there in my situation. My solution was to take a longer screw that I gently turned into the ring to get it out. Making sure not to damage or scrape the internals. That made it pop loose. Carbs both revised on my 84 xv700.
Just got an 1100 barn find 94 with under 10,000k running super rich on the front cylinder....thanks mate.
I have virago 750 tks for this video you give a great possibility to put on 100% my carbs. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Very informative! Well laid out. I will be tackling my carbs soon
Thanks Paul! Good luck on your project!
Hey! I noticed that you were able to take your float needle housings out quite easily. Mine will not budge. Any suggestions?
Giving it a twist first usually breaks it free. Try rotating it first before pulling it out. Hopefully this works. Let me know how it goes. Cheers!
This should be called Carburettor School, thank you for very helpful information.
Thanks Davey Jone's Locker! Cheers!
@@PROSDIY 00
Great video ! thank you! really helped me
Glad the video helped out! All the Best!
Great video! This looks complicated, don't think I'll tackle this job.
Have you planned to make a movie using Gunson to tune the carbs? I have one and wanted to, but you have the right equipment. Have a nice time, wherever you are. Stay healthy and happy.
Thanks so much for posting, this is what the internet is for.
Yes, thank you my new Virago friend
Thanks for the great video to show how to do this. I am getting ready to clean and repair my carbs off of a 97 1100. This bike has had the carbs off before as it came with the old parts in a small plastic bag. The bike had only 8300 miles on it when I got it in late 2019. Rode it last year and it was running great all summer of 2020. Put it up for the winter and drained the carbs float bowls. This year it is running rich and never needs choke to start. If you use choke, it floods out. I drained the bowls due to advice so the ethanol fuel would not damage the carb. I believe draining the bowls allowed that o-ring to dry out, causing a rich condition. The clear tube gas level check for the float adjustment shows it is too high, resulting in rich running. Next time I am putting in non-ethanol fuel and leaving it in the carb bowl.
What are the hoses that run on the front side of the carbs and have those round bulges in them? What is their purpose? Is it for the underside, ( atmosphere pressure side) of the vacuum piston for the carb? I wonder if they can all be routed somewhere else as I plan on replacing the air cleaner and removing the AIS system.
I started riding bikes in 1970 and back then we never had to worry about draining float bowls. This ethanol fuel is not so good for carbed bikes.
Do you ever use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean up the carb bodies and parts? If so, what solution do you like to use.
Thanks for you time and effort to answer my questions, Tom. Old biker getting back on two wheels after a 25 year lay off.
Should check the emulsion tube orings to, my bike sat for years and they were shot
Muy bueno. Gracias
Hello. Got same bike. Did the jet mods fix exhaust pops? What chart did you find to select jets?
The jet kit definitely made the bike run smoother. I also had to change the manifold boots, as they were leaking. The fuel enrichment circuits on my bike were also worn and replaced. Synchronizing the carbs for these bikes are a must as well. Dynojet supplies a chart. cobrausa.com/site_media/pdf/92-2166.pdf : amzn.to/2D4tycL. There's a complete parts list in the video description as well. Thanks!
P.S. Could backfiring be from being too rich from the pilot screw? But I'm only 2 turns out, that shouldn't be the problem. I might have a leak.
DID you change or adjust the deceleration valves? I watched this several times and mine runs like a new bike now.
nice
Hello, I have a question since I was also planning to order the Dynojet Jet replacement kit for my Virago 1100. It looks like their jets are smaller than the stock ones but they are claiming that this replacement kit will increase the power. Could you share your experience after replacing this kit? How is the ride and power compared to stock jets and needles?
Thanks for the question. I would only install the Dynojet kit if you're currently experiencing a lean condition. I personally don't believe the minimal potential horse power gain is worth the money, and hassle of the install. I did experience a slight power gain at the cost of poor fuel mileage. The main reason I installed the kit was because the bike wasn't running right, and it would give me more options for adjustment. Your call in the end, but personal experience with these bikes is if they're running right, don't mess with them. Anyone that has worked on these carbs know how much of a pain they are to pull and reinstall. That's just my 2 cents :)
You're right about the jets being smaller. Where they make the difference is the diameter and shape of the needle. The Dynojet needles are much thinner.
Ride safe my friend!
@@PROSDIY Great, thank you for the detailed response. I guess I will check how my Virago rides and then decide. The thing is I just bought it and actually haven't driven it. Thought I could go through the carb just to make sure everything is ok after the previous owner. But it totally makes sense to not repair something that is not broken. Thanks again!
I have a 1988 xv750 rebuilt and cleaned both carbs but only one cylinder fires. the one not firing has spark. What did i miss?
Hello, setting the floats parallel seems very easy, however as you mentioned the tube method makes it much more precise at the end. Do you know what are the specs for the tube method for your carb? ( I have the same carb.). What I mean is how much higher or lower the fuel should be in the clear tube and from which point exactly? I couldn't find this info anywhere.
Hi Kristoph, great question. My model's clear tube fuel level specs are 1.5 - 2.5 mm below the mating surface of the bowl to the carburetor. Please see page 17 of this online manual: docs.google.com/uc?id=0B6nYhJupTJZVVkxpeWdadm5FVlU&export=download
Thanks again and let me know if you have any questions. Cheers!
@@PROSDIY WOW, you just save so much time for me. Thank you so much for sharing this- now I know exactly how to adjust my floats and fuel level. So excited to go back to the carbs with the correct info. Though I want to mention one thing- in your video you show adjusting the float levels in parallel position to the carb edge. When I measure the float height in the parallel position it is significantly off the manual specs which are around 23 mm. I measured it in the parallel position and for me it showed around 16 mm which is nowhere near the 23 mm. Just mentioning this since maybe you should correct or mention this somewhere in the video. Otherwise someone could go through lot of hustle, assuming floats should be set just to the parallel position ;)
Hi Kristoph you're right the parallel float method can be different from carb to carb due to aftermarket parts and is used as a baseline. The Dynojet seats used in this video seem to be slightly longer which will throw off the measurement. This is why I think it is still very important to always bench test the carbs with the clear tube method for best results. The clear tube method will correct any issues resulting from aftermarket or worn parts and definitely worth the time. Especially on these Virgos, as the carbs are a pain to remove and reinstall. Good luck on your project!
@@PROSDIY Oh I didn't know that those custom seats are slightly longer so it makes sense since anyways at the end you will recheck with the tube. And you are absolutely right- it couldn't be more pain removing and reinstalling the carbs than it is on the Virago :D For now I am simply changing all the main parts in carburetor and keeping it stock. Though in the future I would probably like to try giving the motorcycle a bit more breath. Maybe put some bigger air kit which would require to change the main jets and play with the needle height as well. So far I haven't done enough research about it but if you like I could update with the future progress!
For sure. Love to hear how the project goes. They are fun bikes to ride and work on, just not the most mechanic friendly carbs. :)
aces!
ok so im rebuilding a 85 Virago 1000. the specs im finding online says that there is different main jets and slide needle in each carb. 124 in cylinder 1 and 132 in cylinder 2. what year is your 1100?
maybe after 95' they started to do things easier
@@calebbunch9336 You're correct. Most of these Virago bikes have different main jets and needle for each cylinder. The front in most cases is larger. Mine is a 1997 Virago XV1100 shaft drive. Stock for mine is 125 front, 122.5 rear.
This manual here is very helpful for specs: manualmachine.com/yamaha/virago-xv535-1100-1981-19/210920-service-manual/
Your specs are on page 19
How often does the jet change its setting? Is there a number of mileage to consider or it just happens .
Once the carb jets are setup properly for your altitude the jets shouldn't have to be adjusted or changed. The only adjustment that should be checked regularly is carb synchronization, which is very important on this bikes.
Any idea, which parts interchange with the 1100?
No Virago videos after the carbs? Seems to happen a lot and then getting parked or parted. Wondered about that float level.
So I got my virago and it’s running great possibly a little too lean after putting on my cobra exhaust and high flow air filter (I removed the bug eye pod on the right side) Will adjusting the mixture screws for more fuel in the mix and syncing the carbs again help it run at its best and get peak performance again?
It would depend on which circuit is running lean. The pilot adjustment screw only effects the pilot system which is around 1/4 throttle open. Here is a nice diagram on how carb circuits relate to throttle positioning: www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/how-to-tune-throttle-valve-cutaway/
Your spark plugs will be your roadmap. Read your spark plugs to see how lean it's running.
To be honest if it's running descent now, I would probably not do too many adjustments. These carbs can be very finicky.
Thanks for the question.
Pros DIY thanks for the response I’ll have to see after I put the new filter on how lean it is it may not be too bad at all cause it’s not too bad now, I’m thinking it won’t make a huge difference so I should be ok
Friend..can you tell why when you start the ignition, the tube that is above the carburetor pours gasoline?
like this thanks
Is it possible to remove the float bowls with the carburetors still in the bike, just to be able to access the jets and clean them?
It would be possible but very tough. It's hard to get the right angle and enough force to remove the bowl bolts without stripping them. Then to try to remove the jets with such limited space. I know it's a huge pain, but if it was me I'd be removing the carbs.
What is the plastic piece called that the diaphragm assembly slides into???
I have a 91 virago 1100 and my front cylinder is having a misfire and is running to rich. It's getting too much gas and is causing the spark plug to be completely black (wet gas and dry black soot). The last part you did with the carbs with the 1 1/2 turns, is that what adjusts the air/fuel mixture? I need to make the front cylinder less rich. My rear cylinder is fine
The screw adjustment only adjusts the idle circuit air/fuel mixture, so it depends which circuit is causing your cylinder to foul up. If the front is running rich I would first perform a carburetor synchronization. Unfortunately I don't have a video on this but there are many on TH-cam. Then I would check the fuel enrichment valve on the front carb. If it is sticking open then it will cause the front cylinder to run rich. This is the valve that opens when you engage the choke (it adds fuel instead of choking the air to help start the bike). Lastly I'd perform a clear tube test to double check the fuel level in the bowl of the carburetor. Hope this gets you in the right direction. Cheers!
Hi very knowledgeable video .I was wondering if I can ask you few questions with regards with my virago. So It's about the main diaphragm needle an the air fuel mixture screw. Someone had already adjust screw probably do to aftermarket exhaust but the needle its still OEM .. would this affect my performance
Hi Carlos, I would gauge how your bike is running currently and not what parts have been changed. The spark plugs will tell all and let you know if the bike is running rich or lean. I've seen Viragos with OEM carb parts that run great on after market exhaust and some that don't. It seems they all wear a little differently. In my option the performance increase for the Dynojet kit isn't worth it, if the bike is already running properly. Thanks for the question!
@@PROSDIY hey thank so much for reaching out . The bike was lacking on High RPm to get to speed on high ways speed , it back fire an faul rear cylinder sparkplug running extremely lean performance was not great but it had ok idle performance . So im doing a carb overhaul n replacing floats seats n floats needle n adjustment. N adjusting valves as maintenance as bike has 91000km
Hi Carlos, have you synchronized the carbs lately? I find the biggest improvement in these bikes is when the carbs are properly synchronized. The fact that it's lean in only the rear cylinder makes me think the carbs are out of sync or a intake manifold leak on the rear cylinder. Intake leaks are very common and would cause a lean condition/backfiring, especially at high rpms. WOW 91,000kms! Nice! Got some use out of that bike :)
@@PROSDIY hello mr . So here is a n update after installing the carburetor. Bike would not run perfect . The only way it would run decent it was with both pilot crew, screw all the way to seat . I try my best trying to synchronize carps. Road test n it lack on horsepower. Could not go over 90km . .... notice Cylinder 2 spark plugs very black . If I try to play with pilots screw at number two it backfire dramatically it also fault the spark plug . I could use a little advice please n thank..
@@carlosmoraga4712 Could be a bunch of things but I would probably start with checking to see if the fuel enrichment valves aren't sticking. The Virago's use a fuel enrichment system instead of a more typical choke. So instead of cutting off air to start the bike it adds fuel. I've seen it where one carburetor's fuel enrichment plunger can stick in the open position. This will cause that cylinder to run extremely rich and make synchronizing the carbs impossible. There's a small plunger that lifts up on each carburetor when you engage the choke lever. Make sure the plunger seats back down completely when you disengage the choke lever. Second I would be testing the ignition system. Strength of spark plugs, resistance of coils and spark plug wiring, etc.
Hi. Do you have any suggestions on how to adjust idle and choke cable on the 1100 Virago? mine is 1995, but I don't think it's any different from 1997... I feel like my idle is too fast, especially when I come to a stop at a red light (engine fully warmed up) it idles over 1200 rpm. Could be a stuck throttle cable? The choke doesn't stay on unless I really pull on that lever, either... Previous owner said he redid the carburetors in 2018 and I belive it. He's been honest about everything else, also: he drove it to California from Chicago. I would've inspected everything before taking that trip myself...
Hello Jaroslaw, Thank you for question. Have you tried adjusting the idle adjustment screw on the right side of the bike? (while you are sitting on it). It's located near the top front of the carburetor and is adjust by hand. Turning clockwise increases the idle. The choke cables on these bikes are notorious for being sticky. I had to lube up the springs and linkages on my choke quite often. If you follow the choke back to the carburetor on the left side of the bike you'll see the linkages I'm talking about. Hopefully this gets you started in the right direction. Good luck and let me know if you have anymore questions. Thanks!
@@PROSDIY I'll give it a shot tomorrow, or Monday. I've been slammed with work lately, so didn't even have time to do proper research on what to do. I feel like this hould get me started. Someone mentioned some sensor sometimes needing replacement but I'm not sure if that was for the XV1100 or some other model. I'll try the simple things first :-)
I've got a 84 virago 1000 I pulled the carbs off because it was backfiring popping and cracking cleaned them and put them back also found there was a bad o ring for the carb boot going to the motor and the boot is pretty dry rotted I don't know much about carbs I cleaned them put them back on tried to start it and fuel started pouring out both exhaust pipes and all around the carbs everything was hooked up right the needle valves don't seem stuck at all can any give me any helpful info on what to do. I also just recently replaced the rectifier because the bike wasn't stopped charging once it started to pop and backfire
Hi Shane. It sounds like the carbs are being flooding. Usually caused by the float being hung up or leaking. I think you'll have to pull the carbs again and inspect. Once you think you got them repaired, do a bench test to make sure they are holding and functioning properly.
Is the aftermarket jets required if you have an exhaust? I have a exhaust on my 89 but it still has baffles and I believe is a Yamaha part... Also! Very helpful thank you!!!!
Every bike is going to be different and wear differently. Pulling the spark plugs and reading them will tell you if it is running lean or rich. I always say, if the bike is running well and not sputtering or backfiring, leave the current jets. Thanks for the question!
@@PROSDIY okay, my bike (89' Xv1100) has the same symptoms as yours, front plug fouling and back one is fine, this has been giving me trouble for some time and I will definitely do some research to try to figure out what jets I should put it based on the exhaust that I have. Thank you! P.S answering that question and this video has helped so much, I really appreciate it.
@@yyfreak1637 No worries at all. Definitely check to see if the choke (fuel enrichment) is sticking on that front carb as well. These bikes have a fuel enrichment circuit instead of a choke. So instead of choking the air to start, it adds more fuel. Follow the cable down to the carb and make sure the plunger for the fuel enrichment is returning/closing fully. It is common for these valves/plungers to stick on older bikes and cause that cylinder to run rich. Good luck on your diagnostic!
@@PROSDIY I will check it out thank you so much for the help.
Sorry, just wanted to ask you a few questions. You've drilled out the cap of the pilot screw but not renewed the o-ring. In addition, a kit comes with a tiny or-ing for that purpose and it's a sort of tricky to get the washer and old o-ring out. I have 1995 with Mikunis with a TPS, also an 1100 cc. Another point I wanted to ask you is why you didn't even talk about the enricher diaphragm? isn't that a very important part where a little cut can cause a huge loss of power? I found that out when I accidentally put the hole of the Diaphragm under the one screw, but it has to be at the channel that goes to the tiny tube next to it. You set your pilot screw 1.5 turns out. How did the engine run after you put the carbs back? Did you synch them, or adjust the pilot screw, or was the setting you've made ( 1.5turns) okay? I'm having the same problem rear cylinder is good, the front is getting too much, so I started to turn the pilot screw in by 1/4th turns and check how the bike runs. I had a time when I lost it, followed another guy and set both pilot screws 2.5 turns out from the inside point. Do you have a connecting video where you let the engine run for the first time, to see what you did that the front cylinder didn't get too much fuel, please? The bike is running well and with Iridiums it's more difficult to see how good the spark plug look. It would be great if you could point me to a follow-up video, or tell me what to do to get the front cylinder a bit leaner. I can, of course, always go 1/4th in and make it leaner. I just wanted to hear from you about what you would do. Thanks a lot and kind regards from Thailand! i really love your videos a lot.
How'd you go with this michael?
I am in in the same boat right now - rear cyl is fine but front cyl is rich (can see on the plug)
If i remove rear plug - bike will stall.
If i remove front plug - bike will idle nicely on the single rear cyl.
I am 2.0 turns out on both.
@@TommyAlksno news guys ? Exactly the same problem here ! Starting to lose my mind ! Thanks for your help
@@mrt9941 carb kit I bought on ebay advertised it was correct but it wasn't I swapped kits, checked floats, rebalanced and put new plugs in and it's been mint.
Don't worry about the turns in or out just set a baseline and adjust until it's happy.
@@mrt9941 also I replaced the o ring around the vacuum diaphragm (the plastic tube has to be removed) not a part you can order I sourced new rings from a big kit.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
Carb Kit: 18-5185: geni.us/4W2k
Carb Kit: 18-2596: geni.us/PK4e
Carb Cleaner: geni.us/uKK74u
1988-1999 YAMAHA XV1100: Cobra Jet Kit: geni.us/hhCxh
Intake Manifold Boots: geni.us/b4pqMj5
Carb Synchronizer: geni.us/kjv809
Chrome Polish: geni.us/p6PoVJI
1986-1999 Virago XV1100: Cobra Exhaust: geni.us/lrUT
Muffler Gasket 3EG-14714-00-00: geni.us/i23CWH
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
I have a Virago 535 that runs perfect until it gets hot, then it bogs. I noticed the rear cylinder was cold when the bike has warmed up. Could it be those o rings?
Hi
theoriginalmungaman, This could be many things. How do the spark plugs look? I would probably start with a compression test. Worn piston rings or valves can cause issues at warmer temperatures. It could also be electrical, such as a faulty coil. Coils can fail once warm as well. The spark plugs will tell you the story. Lets start with that. Thanks for the question.
Checked the plugs very lean, turned out fuel pump is junk. Thanks for the reply.
Glad you got it figured out! Ride safe my friend!
@@PROSDIY It could also be a spark plug wire, it's always good to cut half a centimeter off where it goes into the caps and check the cable for little cuts. If the spark goes on your engine, it's like not having spark. I had this problem at a place where you usually don't see anything, it was right at the coil where the cable is attached and little cuts caused the spark to go to ground. Of course, will you also see a spark at the plugs, but the bike or one-pot won't run, or very bad.
@@theoriginalmungaman Don't buy the cheapest Chinese crap and be careful there's a British company Caltric, or similar. Their stuff is so shitty that many people buy problems instead of having new parts.
Hello, I have to ask you a serious question. I had just pulled my carbs, it runs okay, I have them synched and then tuned- one by one. Now I have to backfirimg on the rear cylinder and have no idea what could be wrong. You did the pilot/ fuel /air mixture screw 1.5 turns out. How did your bike run? I've changed the setting so often that I' m not in the mood to waste much more time. I had wrong plugs in it, got new ones now but it didn't get better. Is 1.5 turns a good setting, or did you change it when running?
Hi Michael, I ended up with 1 3/4 front and 1 1/2 rear. Every bike is going to be different though. What do the plugs look like when you pull them? The plugs will be your road map. Does it backfire while idling? after letting off the throttle? Does the backfiring get worse when the engine is warm? After checking your plugs I'd check for air leaks around the manifold boots by spraying some carb cleaner around the boots while the engine is running. If the idle changes you have a leak which will cause a lean condition and backfiring. If that checks out I'd perform a compression test. If that checks out there are many things that can cause backfiring, exhaust leaks, intake leaks, carb issues (clogged/worn parts), worn combustion parts, coils.
You can not synchronise it without gas analyzer
@@geoepi321975 You're right. You can get it very close without a synchronizing tool. All I do to get it close is put my hand over each exhaust separately and feel for which one has more pressure. Then adjust until equal.
@@PROSDIY Thanks, mate. I've done 1.5 turns then checked the plugs and even had to go a fourth in to make it leaner. They look great.
@@geoepi321975 WTH are you on? We're not talking about synching them.
3:05 hi man, so in this part, its that easy to uncover this Carb? I watched some videos and they usually remove this throttle arm around this carb. So its not necessary? just push a little aside to acess the bolts? I'm kinda nervous to open my virago 1100 carb you know... I really dont want to remove this metal piece around the carb...
You bet. You don't have to remove all the throttle linkages to remove the bowls. I just take out the four screws and push it out of the way, as seen in the video. I do this when adjusting float heights or jet replacements. Just remember, anytime the carbs come out you should resynchronize them. You got this! Just take your time and work in a clean area. Good luck!
@@PROSDIY thanks dude! i'll try later this month when my new floats come out (i'm using a parallel version but it sucks, it doesn't last long). My english it's not that good but i'll try to explain my problem with this carb. I bought it the carb kit repair from keyster (i'm the third owner of this virago, and she still had the original's gicle, needle, etc etc) and
I paid a mechanic to make the exchange of repairs. He did but now the bike is running terrible in low rpm. It's starts really well, the carbs are syncronized, and the iddle it's not irregular, actually now is really normal and constant. but when I try to ride, to change the gears to the second ou third, at slow velocity, the bike start's to trumble, to failing, and I need to pull down the throttle. the bike instantly stops stumbling and accelerates abruptly forward. And you can hear snappings, poppings, from the exhaust. I dont know what to do, I dont now if this is poor ou rich condition, and how to change this. At 7:48 you said to "bend this up, to make a richer condition". So change the float level interferes with the condition? Do you think that this could be my problem? poor or rich condition? please help :( I live in a small city in Brazil, and here we have just a few good mechanics, and the one that worked with my bike it's one of the bests, and even he have no idea what it is.
Hi Alexandre. There are different circuits to adjust based on throttle positioning.
Idle Circuit - for idle and off idle
Pilot Circuit - small effect on idle. Higher effect at lower RPM's with decreasing effect to full throttle
Needle jet/jet needle - Mid range circuit
Main Jet - Wide open. Fuel is metered through the main by the jet needle at different throttle positions.
When cracking the throttle if the RPMs hang and take awhile to return to idle, It's most likely lean.
When cracking the throttle if the RPMs drop quickly and drop below idle, it's most likely rich.
The spark plugs are your best indicator.
If it's backfiring, it could be from a lean condition, air leak, exhaust leak, worn valves, or unsynchronized carburetors.
These links have some useful information:
mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle
www.indianmcinfo.com/Indian_stuff/pdfs/Lesson/Motorcylcle_Troubleshootingnbr25.pdf
This guy has a great video on float height adjustment:
th-cam.com/video/g6y32Gw5HK4/w-d-xo.html
I hope some of this information helps out. Thanks for the questions!
@@PROSDIY Hi man! you really helped me. Yesterday I took courage and removed the carbs and, for my surprise, the floats were waaaaay high, like, 35mm in one, and 32mm in another (it should be, as yamaha says, 23-25mm). I changed to 24mm each floats, and now the bike it's running sooo much better than before. Stills pops in the exaust but less than before. And the failing problems at low rpm reduced, like, 90%. I'll try to equalize/sync the carbs to see if gets better. Thank you!!
@@ericksonsouza6479 Nice job! Glad it's running better. The sync will definitely help.
I ordered a repair kit like this but theres a tiny black o ring included with it and I cannot figure out where it goes, any help?
Excellent question! It goes on the pilot adjustment screw:
12R-14105-00-00
If you back the pilot adjustment screw all the way out the o-ring should be at the bottom of the screw. Sometimes the o-ring will stay in the body of the carburetor. If this happens it's easiest to remove with a small pick or hook screw driver. I forgot to add this step into the video. Thanks for the question!
@@PROSDIY I believe mine has a cap over it. Ive removed every other piece on the carb but the capped ones. Do you think it would harm it much to soak the carb in chem dip with that one single o ring in there still? or drill the cap out?
@@hellsingdudeman I'd definitely recommend drilling the cap out. That o-ring is pretty important in the function of the bike. If it is dried out, or damaged in any way, it will be impossible to set the idle properly. I'd hate to see that you'd have to pulled the carbs out again because of that o-ring, and we are know the pain in the butt these carbs can be to remove and install. The other benefit is that once drilled out, you'll be able to fine tune idle adjustment without removing the carbs. Best of Luck!
@@PROSDIY i drilled one out and there was no o ring at all. And it felt like the screw was completely screwed in
@@hellsingdudeman O really? I'm glad you decided to drill them out. It's much easier to check now then once in the bike. Definitely double check that it isn't in the carburetor side. Being that the plugs were still in, I would think it would be there and just pancaked, which is very common. This is how mine were. I had to use a very small pick to get them out.
Its a good video.. I think a little better view of the holes you drilled out for the idle screw adjust would have simplified things and been a little more clear.. Drilling holes in your carb is a scarey situation to be in. You don't want to drill the wrong area or place. So showing closer what you were drilling out would have been better..
He tells you many wrong things, Bending the float with a screwdriver is totally wrong advice. He doesn't even mention the "clear tube check" to be sure that the carbs get the right amount of fuel. He doesn't seem to know that the P-rings of the Emulsion Tubes must be changed and a couple of more things. Not enough fuel can lean out the engine and it could break, too rich and the engine can be flooded, and gasoline goes into the oil. Better watch the Midland Cruiser's movie, there's the right advice, always take the float out to bend it.
You think they have a jet kit for a 82 xv920
Hi Alex, It looks like Dynojet's model #4113 is a stage one kit for 1981-1986 Virago XV700, XV750, and XV920.
www.z1enterprises.com/dynojet-carb-kit-xv700-xv750-xv920-1981-86.html
amzn.to/2uvOQsq
Here's a link to the OEM specs. See page 19, section 3B-3:
manualmachine.com/yamaha/virago-xv535-1100-1981-19/210920-service-manual
Stock should have rear main jet 126 and front 124 for chain drive
Stock should have rear main jet 126 and front 128 for shaft drive
I got one out
Sign up at Yamaha Virago FBfacebook.com/groups/1791392311175487
Hi hi good day how are you I'm actually checking to see if your account is active.. I have a question.
Ask away
Ho mate. Just a short update on my 1100 with Cobras. No need to re jett, the plugs look lovely. I'd love to post a photo, but it's not possible. What annoyed me was the high import tax Thailand wants for Cobras which is around 300 to 400 dollars on top. I have found a way to get that much cheaper. ( If you'd like, please drop me a message and I'll tell you how. The crappy Chinese exhaust system,s that are sold now were less than half of the price before. Now they start to call them names what good brands do. Never buy the Chinese shi_e as you'll never be happy with them. They rust faster than anything else. Greetings from Thailand.
How do I fix my mixer screw
What's wrong with it? Is it broken or are you looking on information on how to adjust it?
Pros DIY I broke it
@@philmanwarren3666 That's very bad news. I've read posts of people who drilled pieces out, but could never get the carb's setting back to normal.
Hello Pros Diy. I just picked up a 1991 virago 1100 with some kind of after market exhaust. I think its running a bit lean (Backfires when i throttle down, and jerky execration). This fix you just did should solve my problem ....right?
Hi patrick post. I would check for air leaks first by spraying some carb cleaner near the rubber manifold boots while on idle. If the idle changes then you have a leak, which would cause a lean condition and backfiring. These manifold boots are known to leak on the older bikes. How do the plugs look? I'd always check all the "easy" fixes first before diving into the carbs.
@@PROSDIY thanks, I'll try that out. The rear cylinder plug was definitely had more carbon fouling then the front
No worries. Were you able to have or get the carbs synchronized? These bikes run like crap if they aren't properly synchronized.
@@PROSDIY i haven't quite gotten there yet. I did valve clearances today. I have to round up a vacuum gauge first. I had a chance to look at the rubber connectors and they do look tired. Perhaps replacing them then syncing the carbs might solve it.
For sure. I just thought I'd throw out the synchronizing idea as well, because it can save a lot of time dialing in the carbs. Sounds like your going through the works on the bike though. Good luck on your repairs!
Not an 87
What's not an 87?
I see now. In the description it says 1987-1999. My mistake it's supposed to be 1988-1999. Thanks for letting me know. Cheers!