This is VERY helpful! I have been a photographer for 50 years. Trying to dip my toes into video using my R6 & FCPX to shoot videos for our animal shelter. Feels like my head is going to explode watching other TH-cams trying to explain. Thank-you for remembering us newbies 👍
This video is absolute gold! As someone who's colorblind, color grading has always scared me but approaching it methodically like this makes it so much simpler.
Well, I am grateful. Beginner in video after 56 years in photography. This was an extremely helpful intro to grading. It's enjoyable to watch when we feel that the presenter is on our side and not just wanting to milk the affiliate cow all the time. :)
I've watched a lot of these videos and this is easily the best tutorial I've seen. Your explanations of the "why" of things like zebra levels make it so much easier to follow. 👏
Was looking around for ideas on how other people grade and balance. Appreciated how you do it versus how I do it. I like the thought you put into it and it gave me something else to try when I'm not having luck with my methods ;)
What a great tutorial! As someone who hasn’t done this before, you made it understandable, and motivated me to explore the tools. Keep up the good work.
this is excellent... I have been struggling with colour grading concepts and where to start even after watching some other high-profile guys (eg buy my LUTS). you have kept it simple and no-nonsense. subscribed
Lol every time I have a question about all that i'm learning about my r7, your videos seem to have the answers. Have watched over a dozen of your videos now, definitely subscribed :) Been clicking your amazon links for supplies too - appreciate you!
So easy to listen to. I just got an R7 yesterday and I'm diving headlong into CLOG3. Your videos have helped me tremendously and will likely be my point of reference going forward. Thanks so much for EVERYTHING!
Hey Josh. If you want to use the histogram to prevent clipping you might have to switch it to RGB. I had a problem with clipped highlights in the red channel but this was not reflected in the lumincance histogram. In case the colors divert (much red, some green, little blue) the luminance histogram will show you an *average* - and it is likely the red values get clipped. This was so on my 80D. It is really confusing ... looking at the (luminance) histogram, everything seemed fine, but when I came home, a lot of the footage was over-exposed (a little). By looking at my control monitor I figured out what was going on. You might want to check if the same applies to the R5, etc. Best wishes from Hamburg, Germany.
Very interesting findings and I am glad that I bought the R7 instead of the R5(c). It will be mainly used to collect clips about energy for a movie about our use of (technical/physical) energy - if I do everything right this camera has cinema quality at least for slow moving subjects. And it is cheap enough to buy a 2nd one to avoid changing lenses in the hurry / in dirty environments. Lenses I like very much with that camera are EF-S 10-22, the EF-S 60 Macro and the EF-S 15-85 + for tele work the EF 70-200 4 IS /version 1 and IS with the EF 10-22 works very well!
you have become one of my fav youtubers, when it comes to all of this stuff! Im looking to upgrade from my 90d to a r6 (my first full frame) and C-Log is new to me. Great and very understandable way you explained it!! thanks!
Fancy seeing you here George! I just upgraded my gear and I’m looking into Clog. Do you find you need to shoot with an ND filter outside? I read you should shoot clog starting from iso 400/800!
Another really good video, thanks! Something that's worth mentioning: If you use an external recorder like the Atomos Ninja V, you shouldn't use Cinema Gamut. Your externally recorded footage will have a severe yellow tint that is not entirely fixable in post. Apparently Cinema Gamut can't be output via HDMI correctly, so it's not Atomos' fault and it should be the same with recorders from SmallHD, Blackmagic etc. BT.709 and BT.2020 work fine though.
I ran into this same problem! Took me such a long time to realize that cinema gamut was the problem. I kept thinking that my white balance was wrong. Hopefully there will be a fix for this soon.
@@justinhofstadler6398 I don't think it's fixable. If you look up the technical specifications of HDMI, you'll see that different colour spaces have to be supported in order to transmit them over the protocol. As all current canon cameras use HDMI 2.0, I'm afraid this is a hardware limitation to a certain extent. It's a real shame.
I'm not sure what you're talking about? I use an Atomos Ninja V with my Canon R6 with CLOG3 Cinema Gamut and have never had a problem with tint or anything off.
@@zapsizzle Maybe you haven't realized it? The problem is well documented by now. Just an example: th-cam.com/video/_cRjvAvn6so/w-d-xo.html There's also quite a few great write ups out there.
I agree with others - straight to the point. I purchased color checker and gray card that you recommend it. I just recently got two canon 6D Mark two. I do filming and editing for @natashaskitchen so this video came out just in time 🎉
Good stuff bro. You gained a subscriber from me! I’ve been using the r6 since release and every now and then I get funky clog3 colors even with real clog3 luts. Some green blotchy skin. Appreciate the time you put in this. Good content. Hope you explode on TH-cam.
Thank you for this video. You explained it ever so clearly. Using both old 5d Mkii & M6 Mkii for video at the moment, but I have pre-ordered the R6 Mkii. It is a coincidence that they are all Mk ii 😊 I can see it as useful for those special videos, but for churning out Amazon, Reels and TH-cam, it is probably not worth the effort because of how they degrade our videos.
good job with your videos man. Great info on things im not seeing anywhere else, so i appreciate that. keep up the great work! -from one teacher gone videographer to another
Fantastic stuff, Josh. I have set my light to Kevin 5600 on the Canon R7 because I am using Kevin 5600 lights. This works out well when I do my abstract painting on canvas with sigma 18-35mm. Yes, I agree that you need to play around until you get what you think is correct. I use 400 or 800 ISO.
This is incredibly helpful and so well made - nice work! Quick question as someone coming from Fuji to Canon (after leaving Canon for Fuji...sigh). One of the things I've loved about shooting short-and-sweet video with the X-T3 are the built in color profiles within the camera. Does Canon do anything like this, and if so, is there one you'd recommend when we're not shooting in CLOG-3? Really enjoying your content - thanks again!
Really Great.. UNited with Color Trasformation from clog3 to 709.... in davinci resolve..and noise redunction is i think an important base for workflow..isnt'it ?
This video is seriously amazing. I can’t say it enough, I probably watched hours and hours of other people’s video and the way you taught these methods were clear, concise and just very well done. So thank you very much. 👍🏽 I did have a couple of questions though. First question, could you practically go and sit in a chair hold the camera, slap an expodisc on the R5 and obtain exposure and white balance using that? If so what what would you do to optimize this process? Second question is, for darker skin tones like middle eastern or African American, would your zebra values need to be different? If so, would you mind kindly explaining this process? Thank you so much! You are awesome! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽👍🏽
You're welcome. I haven't used the expodisc but it's good practice to always judge exposure and white balance based on where the subject is. That's why putting a gray card in that spot is ideal. I never expose based on skin tones because everyone has different colored skin. I stick to these two methods and it works out.
@@Josh_Sattin oh yeah on the expodisc that is actually people using it wrong. You are supposed to stand where the chair is (in your video) and point the camera lens back to where the camera is going to be. Essentially taking in the light from where the grey card is in your video to expose. When people put the expodisc on the lens and point it towards where the subject is, they are using the expodisc wrong. :)
Thanks for this great clip. I wish you would show what to do in more dinamic situations, like going from light to dark and vice-versa. The two demos here are very good when shooting in set scenarios and lighting conditions but walking and gunning a camera does not work in this way. I have found that FV with ISO on auto works the best on the R8 (with limited ISO ranges). Unfortunately this setting is missing from video modes on the R7 and R5 (IDK why) where you need to balance light either by manually changing the ISO or the aperture. Also in my experience cinema gamut is difficult to grade in a clip with other cameras that are not canon so I use rec709 mostly. Also the footage looked muddy and very soft on the R5. I shoot in 4K IPB and looks works than 1080p. Anyway, thanks for all your great clips. You are an inspiration to me.
You're welcome. I personally always shoot in manual mode and how I explain my exposure is what I do. Leave the ISO at 800 for the most part. Shutter speed is double the frame rate. When I am outside all I adjust is ND and aperture. Set the aperture and then adjust the ND for the lighting. When inside I don't have an ND and adjust the exposure with aperture. If it's still too dark then add light or raise the ISO with the lens fully open.
@@Josh_Sattin Absolutely solid advice but I am lazy and I almost always forget to either bring ND filters with me or if I do, I am quite the erratic shooter so I move too much to keep up or remember to adjust the ND. So I do half of your recommendation which is 1/100 shutter (4k50fps), maximum aperture of the lens if it's not too bright, Auto ISO range 800-12800 and I let the camera decide to change ISO. Seems that the R8 is quite forgiving for higher ISO and if its supper bright outside I bring the worst lens possible but the best for lazy people like me, the 24-240mm which is super slow lens but that helps. I over expose to the right 1 stop and I use a lut from Pike to normalise the +1 expo, when the shadows get crushed I see no more noise in the shots. I'm also a hybrid shooter so I tend to take 50 stills, then shoot a bit of a video, another 50 stills, then again shoot video. The FV mode on the R8 is perfect for this because I don't have to change the modes on the camera, just the ISO if I feel like it. It's now gotten into my muscle memory to switch settings in FV, press delete to return to auto.It's absolutely the best for me, like I've said, lazy shooter and not so masterful as you are. But be assured I got 80% of everything you have shared in your videos and use it as best as I could and for that, absolutely thank you. You are the one who basically convinced me to get the R5. And I am inlove with this camera.
Amazing video as always! Do these apply to the R8 too? If I always shoot / color grade video in CLOG3, am I giving up anything by not having RAW output in the R8? I noticed the title has R8, but the video doesn’t reference it. I’m guessing you amended the title after after the R8 was released. Thank you!
Thanks! Yes, this all applies to the R8 and any recent Canon mirrorless camera that shoots in Clog3. I added it to the title later because I made this before the R8 came out. Here is my opinion about the R6 II raw: th-cam.com/video/KLZ1-_4_JOU/w-d-xo.html
This was great! I just got a used C200, and am new to this. I didn't know that you had to look for 35% exposure. Why is that? Does it have to do with the sensor? Anyway, I accidently under exposed, like around 25%, but raised it up globally, adjusted the shadows and highlights, cranked up the global saturation, and it's a pretty dang nice image. Thanks so much!
Hi Josh, really love your tipps and down to earth experienced support on video shooting. Thanx for inspiration. I got me a R10 & installed CLOG3 to my free usable profiles. For the R7 the native ISO is 800 - as you recommend - Have you got any idea or tipp haow to find out what the native ISO for the R10 would be? Thanx for any hint/support. Doc from Germany
Not using the correction LUT means you're not actually shifting the log curve. Generally I add the lut but then go 1 step before the LUT and adjust exposure on the original image, then bost saturation a tiny bit.
Glad you found the video helpful. As explained in the video, my goal for exposure outside (uncontrolled lighting) is to make sure I don't clip the highlights and I use the histogram to determine that. In the other kind of situation (controlled lighting indoor) I use the zebras so I can accurately expose for the subject.
Really good video, showing all the tools for exposure, and great grading tips. Thanks a lot! I have a technical question about how Clog-3 works: so the sensor can only use an ISO range from the value that I set it to and lower, but not higher? So if I set it to ISO 800, it can use ISO 50 to ISO 800 for different parts of the images, but not higher ISOs?? So I have to close the aperture or use an ND filter if it's too bright at ISO 800 and 1/4000s?? Why is this not explained in the manual??
Thanks! You can set the ISO to a higher value. Make sure that your ISO range is not limited in the menu settings. For most situations I recommend leaving the ISO at 800 when filming in Clog 3. Here is a video about some more advanced stuff relating to ISO: th-cam.com/video/AWzqLE64TzI/w-d-xo.html
Hey Josh, thanks for replying back , i have EOS RP and using my video setting to 4k 24FPS and giving C-LOG , not getting the exact color texture in my final output.
@@Untoldmomentz You're welcome! Gotcha. Exposing properly and getting better at color grading takes a lot of time. Lenses also play a big part in the overall look of the image.
I’m struggling to get the correct Color’s.. sometime it’s greenish sometime it’s blueish.. will you help me out with how to set Color temperature white balance and tint while shooting in clog
Nice job! The problem with the canon histogram is once you hit record it disappears. I’ve been using an external monitor with false color for exposing my image when possible.
Great video man! Super simple and straightforward approach. What are thoughts in doing this method compared to using canon conversions LUTS from clog3 cinema gamut to rec709? Also, I saw someone else showcasing setting zebras to 50-55% so they convert to 70-75% back in rec709. And 35% for everything else that isn’t skin tones. Thoughts? Or just 35% for everything? Thanks!
Thanks! I am personally do not like the Canon provided technical LUTs so I don't use them. I will use 35% and a grey card for a controlled lighting situation like shown in the video for Clog 3. It always depends on the scene and what you are trying to focus on. People have all sorts of methods of exposure, especially in more run and gun style shooting. These are my two basic approaches though, 35% gray card and if more run and gun style, don't clip the highlights. Of course, there are always exceptions depending on what is going on. I would recommend practicing a few methods in various situations, grading them and see what you think.
I'd be interested to see your grade vs just a CLOG3 to REC709 LUT. It looks like you're not going crazy with artistic colours so it might be simpler to just select everything and apply a REC709 LUT. Always useful to know how to do it yourself though.
I gave up using the Canon technical LUT since I don't like what it does to most Clog3 footage. Those LUTs were developed a while ago for older cameras.
@@Josh_Sattin Fair enough. I couldn't even tell you what LUT I'm using. I just select Clog 3/Canon Cinema Gamut in Davinci Resolve and adjust from there. By the way, using the screen recording with you pointing to the histogram on screen in possibly the best presentation method I've seen. I shoot the occasional tutorial for new photogrpahers in our office and I'll be ripping off this style in future to point out and describe all elements on screen.
@@robwhitmore3040 Oh if you are using Resolve then definitely use the Color Space Transform, which might be what you are doing. Glad you liked the presentation. I taught high school for 5 years so teaching via TH-cam is fun for me. Thanks for watching!
Hey Josh. Great and very informative video! I was wondering which variable ND filter you had in front of your lens? Also what is your recommendation for shooting in CLOG3 in terms of stops range for variable ND to be used? Thanks so much in advance. Keep it up!
This is my favorite variable ND filter: geni.us/hvFBj This is a 1-5 stop filter and I can generally get down to about F4 in Clog3 24fps when it's super bright outside. If you need to open the lens past F4 then you will need more stops of ND. Thanks for watching!
I'm using Windows 11 and DaVinci Resolve and I have problems with unsupported codec for Canon R7 Clog3 files so I can't open any of them on my computer- how and where can I get the codecs from?
This is VERY helpful! I have been a photographer for 50 years.
Trying to dip my toes into video using my R6 & FCPX to shoot videos for our animal shelter. Feels like my head is going to explode watching other TH-cams trying to explain. Thank-you for remembering us newbies 👍
You are very welcome!
This video is absolute gold! As someone who's colorblind, color grading has always scared me but approaching it methodically like this makes it so much simpler.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
Do the r8 and r7 have similar color science, or is there a noticeable difference? @@Josh_Sattin
Short and to the point, these straightforward tutorials are so helpful. Thanks Josh.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Well, I am grateful. Beginner in video after 56 years in photography. This was an extremely helpful intro to grading. It's enjoyable to watch when we feel that the presenter is on our side and not just wanting to milk the affiliate cow all the time. :)
I am so glad this video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching!
Thanks bro I really needed this now I can start practicing & getting better.
You're welcome. Yeah, keep practicing!
I've watched a lot of these videos and this is easily the best tutorial I've seen. Your explanations of the "why" of things like zebra levels make it so much easier to follow. 👏
Thanks Patrick! Super glad the video was helpful for you!
Your videos in general are concise and to the point, making them much more helpful. It’s refreshing content. Thank you for your great work!
You're welcome. Thank you for the kind words!
excelent.....nice explaining, no BS....
Was looking around for ideas on how other people grade and balance. Appreciated how you do it versus how I do it. I like the thought you put into it and it gave me something else to try when I'm not having luck with my methods ;)
Glad the video was helpful for you Simon. Thanks for watching!
What a great tutorial! As someone who hasn’t done this before, you made it understandable, and motivated me to explore the tools. Keep up the good work.
Another helpful, concise and practical tutorial, yer brilliant Josh, thanks man!
Just watched. Thank you!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for making this tutorial Josh. I've been a photographer all my life and recently I started shooting video using C-Log3 on my R6.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
this is excellent... I have been struggling with colour grading concepts and where to start even after watching some other high-profile guys (eg buy my LUTS). you have kept it simple and no-nonsense. subscribed
Thank you so much. I'm glad this video was helpful for you!
Lol every time I have a question about all that i'm learning about my r7, your videos seem to have the answers. Have watched over a dozen of your videos now, definitely subscribed :) Been clicking your amazon links for supplies too - appreciate you!
That's awesome. I'm glad to hear that my videos have been helpful for you. I really appreciate the support!
So easy to listen to. I just got an R7 yesterday and I'm diving headlong into CLOG3. Your videos have helped me tremendously and will likely be my point of reference going forward. Thanks so much for EVERYTHING!
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
@@Josh_Sattin thanks legend
great video/great presentation
Thanks!
I’m so glad to find your channel! Thanks josh!! Keep it up 👊🏼🔥
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Hey Josh. If you want to use the histogram to prevent clipping you might have to switch it to RGB. I had a problem with clipped highlights in the red channel but this was not reflected in the lumincance histogram. In case the colors divert (much red, some green, little blue) the luminance histogram will show you an *average* - and it is likely the red values get clipped. This was so on my 80D.
It is really confusing ... looking at the (luminance) histogram, everything seemed fine, but when I came home, a lot of the footage was over-exposed (a little). By looking at my control monitor I figured out what was going on. You might want to check if the same applies to the R5, etc.
Best wishes from Hamburg, Germany.
This is without a doubt the best I've seen on this topic. Thanks so much!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
17:16 He says it. "A lot of people ask me what LUTS (look up tables) I use. I don't. I just do this."
this was dope, just got a new camera and can’t wait to play w/ Clog, this video is by far the most useful and concise yet
Thanks! Glad this was helpful for you. Have fun with Clog!
Very interesting findings and I am glad that I bought the R7 instead of the R5(c). It will be mainly used to collect clips about energy for a movie about our use of (technical/physical) energy - if I do everything right this camera has cinema quality at least for slow moving subjects. And it is cheap enough to buy a 2nd one to avoid changing lenses in the hurry / in dirty environments.
Lenses I like very much with that camera are EF-S 10-22, the EF-S 60 Macro and the EF-S 15-85 + for tele work the EF 70-200 4 IS /version 1 and IS with the EF 10-22 works very well!
you have become one of my fav youtubers, when it comes to all of this stuff! Im looking to upgrade from my 90d to a r6 (my first full frame) and C-Log is new to me. Great and very understandable way you explained it!! thanks!
Thank you for the kind words! Glad to hear that this video was helpful for you!
Mega helpful for somebody venturing into log, much appreciated Josh!
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Fancy seeing you here George! I just upgraded my gear and I’m looking into Clog. Do you find you need to shoot with an ND filter outside? I read you should shoot clog starting from iso 400/800!
@@homegrowngarden Hey, I'm everywhere don't you know! Will pop you a message on Insta but basically, yes...
Dude! You are a master! I appreciate you making this so easy to follow. I never really took the time to colorgrade until now! IM READY!
Glad the video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching!
Excellent Josh. Like all your videos.
Thank you so much!
Been pulling my hair out trying to expose C Log 3 until I saw this video. Thank you so much!
Helpful, also learned how to solve an exposure problem with the built in camera tool. Thanks!
You're welcome. Glad the video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching!
Really good, so well explained.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video!
So far so good! I am loving the R5C. Your videos have been a huge help. Thank you so much brother.
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Very cool video, Josh! Thanks for sharing your process. It has been really helpful watching your videos during my transition to Canon!
You're welcome. Glad the video was helpful for you!
Another really good video, thanks!
Something that's worth mentioning: If you use an external recorder like the Atomos Ninja V, you shouldn't use Cinema Gamut. Your externally recorded footage will have a severe yellow tint that is not entirely fixable in post. Apparently Cinema Gamut can't be output via HDMI correctly, so it's not Atomos' fault and it should be the same with recorders from SmallHD, Blackmagic etc. BT.709 and BT.2020 work fine though.
I ran into this same problem! Took me such a long time to realize that cinema gamut was the problem. I kept thinking that my white balance was wrong. Hopefully there will be a fix for this soon.
@@justinhofstadler6398 I don't think it's fixable. If you look up the technical specifications of HDMI, you'll see that different colour spaces have to be supported in order to transmit them over the protocol. As all current canon cameras use HDMI 2.0, I'm afraid this is a hardware limitation to a certain extent. It's a real shame.
BT2020 works the best with Atomos.
I'm not sure what you're talking about? I use an Atomos Ninja V with my Canon R6 with CLOG3 Cinema Gamut and have never had a problem with tint or anything off.
@@zapsizzle Maybe you haven't realized it? The problem is well documented by now. Just an example: th-cam.com/video/_cRjvAvn6so/w-d-xo.html
There's also quite a few great write ups out there.
Thanks Josh!! Greetings from Brazil!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Amazing tutorial thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful vintage spring paintings!
Awesome dear. Big like
I agree with others - straight to the point. I purchased color checker and gray card that you recommend it. I just recently got two canon 6D Mark two. I do filming and editing for @natashaskitchen so this video came out just in time 🎉
Awesome. Thanks for watching!
I immediately subscribed to you after finding this video holy cow you are so helpful with all there is to know on this R7
Thank you!
man you i love the crispyness of your videos
Thanks!
this was the best one yet thank you
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great job Josh, very helpful.
Thank you! I'm so glad to hear the video was helpful for you!
Thank you so much for this video! At the very end you mention White Balance. Did you or can you make a video for that? THANKS!
Good stuff bro. You gained a subscriber from me! I’ve been using the r6 since release and every now and then I get funky clog3 colors even with real clog3 luts. Some green blotchy skin. Appreciate the time you put in this. Good content. Hope you explode on TH-cam.
Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate you watching!
Thanks Josh, this was really helpful. If is really the same as you do in a photo, just done with different tools. I gotta get on it now! Take care!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
the only useful contente on youtube
Im currently using final cut pro and this is super helpfull, using eos m with magic lantern
This was truly amazing. Thank you so so much
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Amazing video. your demos and tutorials are very professional and well put together. your a huge help thanks.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Your content is great, man. Keep it up. You should have 200K followers (and will).
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Thank you so much!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. You explained it ever so clearly. Using both old 5d Mkii & M6 Mkii for video at the moment, but I have pre-ordered the R6 Mkii. It is a coincidence that they are all Mk ii 😊 I can see it as useful for those special videos, but for churning out Amazon, Reels and TH-cam, it is probably not worth the effort because of how they degrade our videos.
good job with your videos man. Great info on things im not seeing anywhere else, so i appreciate that. keep up the great work! -from one teacher gone videographer to another
Thank you for the kind words!
Thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for the support! I really appreciate it.
Amazing video. Thanks for this Josh! Very helpful. :)
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great tips , really helps!!
Glad the video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!!!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic stuff, Josh. I have set my light to Kevin 5600 on the Canon R7 because I am using Kevin 5600 lights. This works out well when I do my abstract painting on canvas with sigma 18-35mm. Yes, I agree that you need to play around until you get what you think is correct. I use 400 or 800 ISO.
Thanks! This is very useful!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
This was awesome... your channel is gonna get so big that you won't be able to read all the positive comments!
Thank you for the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Good stuff, thanks for the tutorial. 👍👍
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely amazing video! Thank you!!!
This is incredibly helpful and so well made - nice work! Quick question as someone coming from Fuji to Canon (after leaving Canon for Fuji...sigh). One of the things I've loved about shooting short-and-sweet video with the X-T3 are the built in color profiles within the camera. Does Canon do anything like this, and if so, is there one you'd recommend when we're not shooting in CLOG-3?
Really enjoying your content - thanks again!
You're welcome. Canon does have some built in picture profiles, but nothing like what Fuji has.
Really Great..
UNited with Color Trasformation from clog3 to 709.... in davinci resolve..and noise redunction is i think an important base for workflow..isnt'it ?
This video is seriously amazing. I can’t say it enough, I probably watched hours and hours of other people’s video and the way you taught these methods were clear, concise and just very well done. So thank you very much. 👍🏽 I did have a couple of questions though.
First question, could you practically go and sit in a chair hold the camera, slap an expodisc on the R5 and obtain exposure and white balance using that? If so what what would you do to optimize this process?
Second question is, for darker skin tones like middle eastern or African American, would your zebra values need to be different? If so, would you mind kindly explaining this process?
Thank you so much! You are awesome! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽👍🏽
You're welcome. I haven't used the expodisc but it's good practice to always judge exposure and white balance based on where the subject is. That's why putting a gray card in that spot is ideal.
I never expose based on skin tones because everyone has different colored skin. I stick to these two methods and it works out.
@@Josh_Sattin oh yeah on the expodisc that is actually people using it wrong. You are supposed to stand where the chair is (in your video) and point the camera lens back to where the camera is going to be. Essentially taking in the light from where the grey card is in your video to expose. When people put the expodisc on the lens and point it towards where the subject is, they are using the expodisc wrong. :)
@@Josh_Sattin cool your note for not exposing for skin tone is something I’ll try. Thanks a bunch man! 🙏🏽👍🏽
amazing thanks a lot for this video!
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Super helpful. Thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this great clip. I wish you would show what to do in more dinamic situations, like going from light to dark and vice-versa. The two demos here are very good when shooting in set scenarios and lighting conditions but walking and gunning a camera does not work in this way. I have found that FV with ISO on auto works the best on the R8 (with limited ISO ranges). Unfortunately this setting is missing from video modes on the R7 and R5 (IDK why) where you need to balance light either by manually changing the ISO or the aperture. Also in my experience cinema gamut is difficult to grade in a clip with other cameras that are not canon so I use rec709 mostly. Also the footage looked muddy and very soft on the R5. I shoot in 4K IPB and looks works than 1080p. Anyway, thanks for all your great clips. You are an inspiration to me.
You're welcome. I personally always shoot in manual mode and how I explain my exposure is what I do. Leave the ISO at 800 for the most part. Shutter speed is double the frame rate. When I am outside all I adjust is ND and aperture. Set the aperture and then adjust the ND for the lighting. When inside I don't have an ND and adjust the exposure with aperture. If it's still too dark then add light or raise the ISO with the lens fully open.
@@Josh_Sattin Absolutely solid advice but I am lazy and I almost always forget to either bring ND filters with me or if I do, I am quite the erratic shooter so I move too much to keep up or remember to adjust the ND. So I do half of your recommendation which is 1/100 shutter (4k50fps), maximum aperture of the lens if it's not too bright, Auto ISO range 800-12800 and I let the camera decide to change ISO. Seems that the R8 is quite forgiving for higher ISO and if its supper bright outside I bring the worst lens possible but the best for lazy people like me, the 24-240mm which is super slow lens but that helps. I over expose to the right 1 stop and I use a lut from Pike to normalise the +1 expo, when the shadows get crushed I see no more noise in the shots.
I'm also a hybrid shooter so I tend to take 50 stills, then shoot a bit of a video, another 50 stills, then again shoot video. The FV mode on the R8 is perfect for this because I don't have to change the modes on the camera, just the ISO if I feel like it. It's now gotten into my muscle memory to switch settings in FV, press delete to return to auto.It's absolutely the best for me, like I've said, lazy shooter and not so masterful as you are. But be assured I got 80% of everything you have shared in your videos and use it as best as I could and for that, absolutely thank you. You are the one who basically convinced me to get the R5. And I am inlove with this camera.
Amazing video. Need one for setting up white balance easily. Leave a link if you already have one on channel. Thanks
so simple method& thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
13:33 u kill me Lol
Super helpful
Great to hear. Thanks for watching!
PErfekt man!
great video! 🎉
Thank you!
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Do you have any videos on lock focus for the R5?
Thank you. I don't have any videos specifically on focusing with the R5.
Amazing video as always!
Do these apply to the R8 too? If I always shoot / color grade video in CLOG3, am I giving up anything by not having RAW output in the R8?
I noticed the title has R8, but the video doesn’t reference it. I’m guessing you amended the title after after the R8 was released.
Thank you!
Thanks! Yes, this all applies to the R8 and any recent Canon mirrorless camera that shoots in Clog3. I added it to the title later because I made this before the R8 came out. Here is my opinion about the R6 II raw: th-cam.com/video/KLZ1-_4_JOU/w-d-xo.html
@@Josh_Sattin Thanks for the reply - super helpful!
✌🏼✌🏼Thank you! alot !
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great vid, thanks! What kind of the VND and the lense setup do you use?
You're welcome. I don't remember which lenses I used, but this is the ND filter I use: geni.us/hvFBj
Great video mate! Do you ever use correction luts with the R5 and if so which ones have you found to work well? Cheers 👍🏻
Great video. Thanks
This was great! I just got a used C200, and am new to this. I didn't know that you had to look for 35% exposure. Why is that? Does it have to do with the sensor? Anyway, I accidently under exposed, like around 25%, but raised it up globally, adjusted the shadows and highlights, cranked up the global saturation, and it's a pretty dang nice image. Thanks so much!
You're welcome. Glad this was helpful for you and congrats on the C200! The 35% is based on Clog3.
@@Josh_Sattin Nice, thank you for that! What about C log 1? Does that have a different exposure value? Thanks again, Tom
You're welcome. Check out this video. I go over all of the log profiles: th-cam.com/video/PGp2-Mu5ElI/w-d-xo.html
@@Josh_Sattin Thanks! I will have a look!
Hi Josh, really love your tipps and down to earth experienced support on video shooting. Thanx for inspiration. I got me a R10 & installed CLOG3 to my free usable profiles. For the R7 the native ISO is 800 - as you recommend - Have you got any idea or tipp haow to find out what the native ISO for the R10 would be? Thanx for any hint/support. Doc from Germany
Thanks! The The R10 doesn't shoot in Clog3.
Nice thumbnail.
Not using the correction LUT means you're not actually shifting the log curve. Generally I add the lut but then go 1 step before the LUT and adjust exposure on the original image, then bost saturation a tiny bit.
Great Video... Subbed
Thank you!
THANK YOU AMIGO. Very well explained and definitely outdoors. I was waiting for this video. 👍🏻📸🏝🌊☀️🌴🌋☕
You are very welcome. Hope the video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching!
Very informative video! I'm just curious about why not use histogram for indoor shooting?
Glad you found the video helpful. As explained in the video, my goal for exposure outside (uncontrolled lighting) is to make sure I don't clip the highlights and I use the histogram to determine that. In the other kind of situation (controlled lighting indoor) I use the zebras so I can accurately expose for the subject.
Fantastic video.
Really good video, showing all the tools for exposure, and great grading tips. Thanks a lot!
I have a technical question about how Clog-3 works: so the sensor can only use an ISO range from the value that I set it to and lower, but not higher? So if I set it to ISO 800, it can use ISO 50 to ISO 800 for different parts of the images, but not higher ISOs?? So I have to close the aperture or use an ND filter if it's too bright at ISO 800 and 1/4000s?? Why is this not explained in the manual??
Thanks! You can set the ISO to a higher value. Make sure that your ISO range is not limited in the menu settings. For most situations I recommend leaving the ISO at 800 when filming in Clog 3. Here is a video about some more advanced stuff relating to ISO: th-cam.com/video/AWzqLE64TzI/w-d-xo.html
Hi Josh, would you be able to give tutorial on video editing, which will be helpful for our aspiring filmmakers, thanks
Josh here. I am actually a pretty simple editor. Which types of things do you have questions about?
Hey Josh, thanks for replying back , i have EOS RP and using my video setting to 4k 24FPS and giving C-LOG , not getting the exact color texture in my final output.
@@Untoldmomentz You're welcome! Gotcha. Exposing properly and getting better at color grading takes a lot of time. Lenses also play a big part in the overall look of the image.
thanks , will work on it 👍
I’m struggling to get the correct Color’s.. sometime it’s greenish sometime it’s blueish.. will you help me out with how to set Color temperature white balance and tint while shooting in clog
Nice job! The problem with the canon histogram is once you hit record it disappears. I’ve been using an external monitor with false color for exposing my image when possible.
Yes. That is super annoying!
Great video man! Super simple and straightforward approach. What are thoughts in doing this method compared to using canon conversions LUTS from clog3 cinema gamut to rec709? Also, I saw someone else showcasing setting zebras to 50-55% so they convert to 70-75% back in rec709. And 35% for everything else that isn’t skin tones. Thoughts? Or just 35% for everything? Thanks!
Thanks! I am personally do not like the Canon provided technical LUTs so I don't use them. I will use 35% and a grey card for a controlled lighting situation like shown in the video for Clog 3. It always depends on the scene and what you are trying to focus on. People have all sorts of methods of exposure, especially in more run and gun style shooting. These are my two basic approaches though, 35% gray card and if more run and gun style, don't clip the highlights. Of course, there are always exceptions depending on what is going on. I would recommend practicing a few methods in various situations, grading them and see what you think.
brooo your videos are so crisp!! can you do a video of export settings if youre using premiere?
Thank you! I use Final Cut Pro.
Hey, Please get me out of this trouble of not getting accurate colors in clog
I'd be interested to see your grade vs just a CLOG3 to REC709 LUT.
It looks like you're not going crazy with artistic colours so it might be simpler to just select everything and apply a REC709 LUT.
Always useful to know how to do it yourself though.
I gave up using the Canon technical LUT since I don't like what it does to most Clog3 footage. Those LUTs were developed a while ago for older cameras.
@@Josh_Sattin Fair enough. I couldn't even tell you what LUT I'm using. I just select Clog 3/Canon Cinema Gamut in Davinci Resolve and adjust from there.
By the way, using the screen recording with you pointing to the histogram on screen in possibly the best presentation method I've seen. I shoot the occasional tutorial for new photogrpahers in our office and I'll be ripping off this style in future to point out and describe all elements on screen.
@@robwhitmore3040 Oh if you are using Resolve then definitely use the Color Space Transform, which might be what you are doing.
Glad you liked the presentation. I taught high school for 5 years so teaching via TH-cam is fun for me. Thanks for watching!
Hey Josh. Great and very informative video!
I was wondering which variable ND filter you had in front of your lens? Also what is your recommendation for shooting in CLOG3 in terms of stops range for variable ND to be used? Thanks so much in advance. Keep it up!
This is my favorite variable ND filter: geni.us/hvFBj
This is a 1-5 stop filter and I can generally get down to about F4 in Clog3 24fps when it's super bright outside. If you need to open the lens past F4 then you will need more stops of ND. Thanks for watching!
Great content! Now the only thing I need is a camera. 😂
I'm using Windows 11 and DaVinci Resolve and I have problems with unsupported codec for Canon R7 Clog3 files so I can't open any of them on my computer- how and where can I get the codecs from?
I am having the same issues. Would love to figure out how to fix this before shooting more footage on clog3
I love you Sir Big fan ❤️😉
Can you do a video for the R5C using the different cinema tools ? Thanks 👍
th-cam.com/video/H7ndRK37ZkU/w-d-xo.html