Hey Josh! I just wanted to let you know that your channel has helped me TREMENDOUSLY! I have a Canon R6 Mark II, and have recently put a lot of work into not just the actual content of my TH-cam videos, but also putting some effort into the production quality. Your guides about the Canon R6 Mark II has helped me a lot to achieve this goal. Keep pushing out videos like this, I'm watching every single one of them! Cheers!
That is so great to hear! I'm so glad the videos have been helpful for you and that your production has gotten better. Means a lot to hear that. Thanks for the support!
Fantastic advice. Thank you! I just picked up the R6 Mk II last night to pair with my R5 and was pleasantly surprised to see false color built in. I wish Canon made a firmware update to include it with the R5.
Thanks Josh, your channel is great! Did you test lowering the iso to 200 for example in clog3 to see how much the noise lowers? I know you will lose probably 1 stop of dynamic range but in a less challenging shot, light wise, might worth the trade off.
Thanks! Lowering the ISO does something different than overexposing. It shifts stops of dynamic range to the shadows whereas overexposing maintains the normal distribution of dynamic range. If you'd like to learn more about how changing the ISO works, check out this video: th-cam.com/video/AWzqLE64TzI/w-d-xo.html
Exposing with ND and lighting is the start and fine if you’re not moving around, but I find having a floating ISO is best, and having less to worry about. Set exposure comp to +X and be on your merry way while the camera floats the ISO. This doesn’t work well on Sonys like the A7S3, but works well on the A7IV and A1.
If you are happy with the image you are getting then that's great. Raising your ISO above the base will reduce dynamic range and increase noise. I set everything how I want (ISO, shutter, aperture) and then use a variable ND filter to adjust the exposure. I have been using this method for years shooting outside and run and gun style stuff.
@Josh Sattin definitely I am more thinking in in doors and and night at as well situations where it will already be base iso or you may want to remove the vnd filter
Hey Josh! Thanks for the information. Quick question: What would you recommend for exposing properly shooting real estate video in CLog 3 with Canon R6Mii?
That can be tricky when inside with bright windows since there is only so much dynamic range. I would make sure you expose inside properly while keeping an eye on the highlights to not blow them out too badly. Leave a little detail there.
@Josh Sattin thank you for your answer. Actually, I use ninja V to record in 422 because I record a 30 min program and soo much better to edit also I use 2T ssd .. but I had a problem with having a good skin tone.. i heard something about using gamut cinema with R5 and R6 is a problem with nija V... then im using WIDE DR 709. But, im not sure about that.. maybe it was my problem setting the camera and ninja... again thank you for your attention. let me know your configuration in Ninja with log3..
Random question but im curious if anyone else is having the same issues... I shoot sony with slgo3 and have a monitoring lut on my external monitor. Everything works great. At work we have 2 canon r6 mark.ii bodies and when i shoot clog3 with a monitoring lut, the image is very far off. Both with exposure and colors. When i film something then use that exact same lut on my computer the image looks great (if i manage to get the exposure right). So where is the mess up coming from going to the external monitor? i have tried with my atomos shinobi, osee t7 and smallhd monitors and all 3 fail to show the proper image when adding the monitoring lut. shooting with no picture profile the image looks accurate.
Interesting situation. This might have to do with the gamut (Rec 709, Rec 2020, Cinema Gamut) in the R6II. I'm not sure about this combo of camera and monitors, but with the R5 and Ninja it doesn't accurately show the color gamut that is in the camera.
If you turn on anti flicker you can set to 1/50 and still use 1/2 stop increments for exposure but also impacts the aperture. Otherwise if you set it to 1/2 and no anti flicker you cant shoot 1/50.
@@Josh_SattinHDQ PQ is what I shoot all my real estate videos at. Good midpoint between standard and LOG. I love it and it’s 10 but fit added flexibility.
Awesome video, thanks. Question. Are you seeing ugly noise in 1080p with Clog3? I guess especially with high frame rates over 60p? On my OG R6, the noise looks horrible at most ISOs with 1080p and clog3. Looks much worse that Clog3 looks on any other canon Camera i have (C70, C200 etc). Overexposing doesn't help. And if 1080p still looks bad, did they remove Clog1?
You're welcome. I haven't done too much testing in 1080p besides the higher frame rates, which I found to not be so good: th-cam.com/video/mxqE64aKzqI/w-d-xo.html Yes, Clog (1) is not in the R6 II.
Morning. Any chance you can test the official 33/64 cinema gamut to 709 canon Lut. I find it adds noise when over exposed by 1 stop. I actually found a Sony official lut that does much better with noise. I just need to add just a bit more color in camera. Sometimes I add my lut using ffmpeg during re encode so no need for davinci for quick turn around.
I generally don't use LUTs, especially the Canon ones. Every Canon camera looks different (which is very annoying to say the least) so using a generic Clog3 LUT doesn't work very well.
Great video! What are your thoughts on using Clog3 in environments where you can't control the lighting? (like a concert). Even at low apertures often there is not enough light to even expose at 0, let alone +1 stops over. Is it better to just not use Clog3 and crank the ISO? Or boost the native ISO past 800 and stay in Clog3?
I pretty much always shoot in a log profile. Your sensor can only capture the light that it is given. Getting a faster lens (lower F) will help. The R6II has an informal second base ISO of 3200 so you can try that too, but it's all about light getting to the sensor, independent of which profile you are shooting in.
@@Josh_Sattin dont tell anyone but you can actually push exposure to the right just fine with ISO, darken it in post and u get very clean image. ISO is not the source of noise.. thats well known already.. If you shoot darkscene lets say on 3200 iso and the same scene with 12600 ISO but darken it in post 2 stops.. the 12600 ISO footage will be much much cleaner.
Thanks. I am a bit confused by your comment. You usually want to keep your ISO at 800 and grade the image to what you want. The point of overexposing is to raise the shadow detail above the noise floor so that when you correct the image, the noise gets buried. Of course you don't get anything for free because you might be clipping highlights if there is a lot of dynamic range in the shot.
@@Josh_Sattin yeah very poorly worded, sorry! I usually find if I overexpose with more light and drop below 800 to the correct exposure, I get about the same result: lower noise floor with a little less headroom in the highlights. Might be worth trying? Thanks for answering, Josh!
Ah then you aren't really overexposing then, you are just shifting stops of dynamic range to the shadows. This can have a similar effect in some situations. This can also be a useful technique in a scene without bright highlights. You can also raise your ISO above the base when shooting a scene without any strong shadows. I made a video about this: th-cam.com/video/AWzqLE64TzI/w-d-xo.html
@@Josh_Sattin yeah, exactly the technique you showed in an older video. I think it’s functionally similar, just one done in the camera and the other in the computer.
In some situations this will give a similar result. But when you change the ISO it has a different result. It shifts stops of dynamic range whereas overexposing maintains the most balanced image in terms of dynamic range.
Yeah man! It was definitely surprising that Canon tossed that in there. Of course the quirk with having to turn view assist off is silly, but yeah, false color.
It is extremely difficult to have correct exposure in an outdoor environment where the lighting conditions change quickly. At the same time, the profile log is "deified", ignoring that only very advanced users can handle it properly. And we come to the most interesting: What other profiles do companies have on their cameras, and how reliable are they for the average user? The only thing for sure: Canon is the ONLY COMPANY WHOSE "NORMAL" profiles HAVE 8 bits !!!! In 2023!!! And they ask for 3000 euros!!!!(Canon r6 ii)
Videography and flimmaking take a lot of practice and many repetitions to get better at it, regardless of what color profile you are shooting in. This goes for learning any skill really. As videographers and filmmakers, we should always try to get the most out of our cameras and shooting in a log profile will give us the most dynamic range and result in a higher quality image. In fact, exposing with log in an outdoor environment is actually easier because you have more dynamic range to work with, easier to keep your highlights from clipping and shadows from crushing. If you are recording in a non log profile, you will be more limited in your dynamic range and more likely to lose information in the highlights or shadows. Grading log footage is really not very difficult and many people find a LUT or two that will do the basic conversion for them. But, doing a basic conversion is actually pretty simple. As mentioned in this video, I made a simple guide to do this without a LUT: th-cam.com/video/JCDaz1Ewirg/w-d-xo.html As far as Canon's decisions about 8-bit vs 10-bit in their standard profiles, yeah that's not cool.
@Josh Sattin I agree with everything you say!! Logs, profiles, need a lot of experience. Even professionals can "see" so much noise in their shots, from incorrect exposure. But what about the "ordinary" users? How big and noticeable is the difference in dynamic range?? THIS IS WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO HAVE GOOD "normal" profiles, ALWAYS 10bit, like fuji, like Panasonic, like Sony (=s cinetone). Canon???
I don't think shooting in log needs a lot of practice to get going. Once you can correct a basic image it gets easier. You just need to learn some basic grading skills. Go out and get some shots and practice a bit. In terms of dynamic range, it varies based on the camera and profile, but you usually lose quite a bit of dynamic range. One of the reason's why Sony's S-Cinetone is so popular is because it is a bit flatter than their standard profiles. Kind of in between log and standard. I am not here to justify any camera manufacturer's decisions. We are lucky to have so many options and such powerful cameras. If you can get an image out of a camera in a standard profile that you are happy with, then that's fine too. I can only speak for myself here, but when I switched to filming in log a few years ago it made a big difference in the quality of my work. But that being said, we all should be constantly trying to get better at our craft. There is almost infinite content on TH-cam to help us all level up together.
Hey Josh! I just wanted to let you know that your channel has helped me TREMENDOUSLY! I have a Canon R6 Mark II, and have recently put a lot of work into not just the actual content of my TH-cam videos, but also putting some effort into the production quality. Your guides about the Canon R6 Mark II has helped me a lot to achieve this goal. Keep pushing out videos like this, I'm watching every single one of them! Cheers!
That is so great to hear! I'm so glad the videos have been helpful for you and that your production has gotten better. Means a lot to hear that. Thanks for the support!
Great video. I'm justing getting into shooting Clog3 on my Canon R6 ii, so I appreciate any videos on this topic. Thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
I rarely comment on any video. This was worth me telling you it was an incredibly informative piece! Thank you!!
You are very welcome! Glad the video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching!
Another great video.. Thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic advice. Thank you! I just picked up the R6 Mk II last night to pair with my R5 and was pleasantly surprised to see false color built in. I wish Canon made a firmware update to include it with the R5.
You're welcome. Yeah I wish every camera had false color!
Great video Josh! Looks like 1 stop over is the sweet spot.it is so awesome that canon put false color on the camera. I hope that’s the new norm
I hope so too Tyler!
Thanks Josh, your channel is great! Did you test lowering the iso to 200 for example in clog3 to see how much the noise lowers? I know you will lose probably 1 stop of dynamic range but in a less challenging shot, light wise, might worth the trade off.
Thanks! Lowering the ISO does something different than overexposing. It shifts stops of dynamic range to the shadows whereas overexposing maintains the normal distribution of dynamic range. If you'd like to learn more about how changing the ISO works, check out this video: th-cam.com/video/AWzqLE64TzI/w-d-xo.html
Would love to see a comparison with z6iii. Great video
exactly what i was looking for.
Awesome. Thanks for watching!
Hi Josh! I already saved this video, it will be very useful for my R6 2. Which card do you recommend to use the maximum video quality?
Nice! These are the SD cards that I use: geni.us/2n7XYa
very helpful video!! thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Exposing with ND and lighting is the start and fine if you’re not moving around, but I find having a floating ISO is best, and having less to worry about. Set exposure comp to +X and be on your merry way while the camera floats the ISO. This doesn’t work well on Sonys like the A7S3, but works well on the A7IV and A1.
If you are happy with the image you are getting then that's great. Raising your ISO above the base will reduce dynamic range and increase noise. I set everything how I want (ISO, shutter, aperture) and then use a variable ND filter to adjust the exposure. I have been using this method for years shooting outside and run and gun style stuff.
@Josh Sattin definitely I am more thinking in in doors and and night at as well situations where it will already be base iso or you may want to remove the vnd filter
Another great one Josh, thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for a great video! Straight to it and really pro work :)
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Amazing videos!!
Thank you!
So great! Can you please recommend an ND Filter Set for the R6M2 fpr me?
Thank you so much for your video.
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
What were your camera settings for this video? Iso, shutter speed, aperture, and anything else that may be important.
Hey Josh! Thanks for the information. Quick question: What would you recommend for exposing properly shooting real estate video in CLog 3 with Canon R6Mii?
That can be tricky when inside with bright windows since there is only so much dynamic range. I would make sure you expose inside properly while keeping an eye on the highlights to not blow them out too badly. Leave a little detail there.
super helpful, thank you.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Hey Josh! I really like your explanation about Canon camera. but there is one question playing in my mind. Does Canon R6 mark ii Native ISO?
Thanks a lot Josh
Which one you enjoy more: R6M2 vs A7IV.?
You're welcome. I like them both for different things. Here is my comparison: th-cam.com/video/0OfUBOtj_NM/w-d-xo.html
Hey Boss, do you have some problem using gamut cinema with Ninja V? or some weird sky tones? congrats on your helpful videos ...
Thanks! What sort of issue are you having? Are you just monitoring with the Ninja V or recording to it? I always record internally in the camera.
@Josh Sattin thank you for your answer. Actually, I use ninja V to record in 422 because I record a 30 min program and soo much better to edit also I use 2T ssd .. but I had a problem with having a good skin tone.. i heard something about using gamut cinema with R5 and R6 is a problem with nija V... then im using WIDE DR 709. But, im not sure about that.. maybe it was my problem setting the camera and ninja... again thank you for your attention. let me know your configuration in Ninja with log3..
Random question but im curious if anyone else is having the same issues...
I shoot sony with slgo3 and have a monitoring lut on my external monitor. Everything works great. At work we have 2 canon r6 mark.ii bodies and when i shoot clog3 with a monitoring lut, the image is very far off. Both with exposure and colors. When i film something then use that exact same lut on my computer the image looks great (if i manage to get the exposure right). So where is the mess up coming from going to the external monitor? i have tried with my atomos shinobi, osee t7 and smallhd monitors and all 3 fail to show the proper image when adding the monitoring lut. shooting with no picture profile the image looks accurate.
Interesting situation. This might have to do with the gamut (Rec 709, Rec 2020, Cinema Gamut) in the R6II. I'm not sure about this combo of camera and monitors, but with the R5 and Ninja it doesn't accurately show the color gamut that is in the camera.
Thanks for the information :). Please make a video on how to connect Canon R6 mark II to Atomos Ninja V
You're welcome. I go over that in my full R6II settings guide. You can find it around 15:50: th-cam.com/video/2xqub_NF14Q/w-d-xo.html
@@Josh_Sattin Thanks a lot.
Do you have a certain ND filter you suggest for screwing on front of lens or do you like the ND adapter on back of lens. Great video as always.
I pretty much use this for everything now: geni.us/hvFBj
@@Josh_Sattin Thank you sir.
@@shawnwright240 You're welcome!
If you turn on anti flicker you can set to 1/50 and still use 1/2 stop increments for exposure but also impacts the aperture. Otherwise if you set it to 1/2 and no anti flicker you cant shoot 1/50.
Hi Josh, run and gun scenarios where LOG is not practical can the R6 mk 2 shoot in 10 bit colour in one of the standard picture profiles?
Only in HDR PQ. See page 8: downloads.canon.com/nw/camera/products/eos/r6-markii/R6-MarkII-SpecSheet.pdf
@@Josh_Sattin ah link dosnt work. So is 10 bit colour only in LOG?
@@Josh_SattinHDQ PQ is what I shoot all my real estate videos at. Good midpoint between standard and LOG. I love it and it’s 10 but fit added flexibility.
Awesome video, thanks. Question. Are you seeing ugly noise in 1080p with Clog3? I guess especially with high frame rates over 60p? On my OG R6, the noise looks horrible at most ISOs with 1080p and clog3. Looks much worse that Clog3 looks on any other canon Camera i have (C70, C200 etc). Overexposing doesn't help. And if 1080p still looks bad, did they remove Clog1?
You're welcome. I haven't done too much testing in 1080p besides the higher frame rates, which I found to not be so good: th-cam.com/video/mxqE64aKzqI/w-d-xo.html
Yes, Clog (1) is not in the R6 II.
I’m struggling to expose clog 3 during night time. Please help me out.
Morning. Any chance you can test the official 33/64 cinema gamut to 709 canon Lut. I find it adds noise when over exposed by 1 stop. I actually found a Sony official lut that does much better with noise. I just need to add just a bit more color in camera. Sometimes I add my lut using ffmpeg during re encode so no need for davinci for quick turn around.
I generally don't use LUTs, especially the Canon ones. Every Canon camera looks different (which is very annoying to say the least) so using a generic Clog3 LUT doesn't work very well.
Great video! What are your thoughts on using Clog3 in environments where you can't control the lighting? (like a concert). Even at low apertures often there is not enough light to even expose at 0, let alone +1 stops over. Is it better to just not use Clog3 and crank the ISO? Or boost the native ISO past 800 and stay in Clog3?
I pretty much always shoot in a log profile. Your sensor can only capture the light that it is given. Getting a faster lens (lower F) will help. The R6II has an informal second base ISO of 3200 so you can try that too, but it's all about light getting to the sensor, independent of which profile you are shooting in.
@@Josh_Sattin Interesting. Would love to see some tests on the 3200 ISO in CLOG3, curious to see how it compare.
Although I didn't experiment with overexposure, here are some results for higher ISOs: th-cam.com/video/MMNuboq6QUY/w-d-xo.html
@@Josh_Sattin dont tell anyone but you can actually push exposure to the right just fine with ISO, darken it in post and u get very clean image. ISO is not the source of noise.. thats well known already..
If you shoot darkscene lets say on 3200 iso and the same scene with 12600 ISO but darken it in post 2 stops.. the 12600 ISO footage will be much much cleaner.
Nice! But now: best noise result to correct overexposure in post, or drop below 800 ISO back to the correct exposure… 🤔 probs similar, but I wonder.
Thanks. I am a bit confused by your comment. You usually want to keep your ISO at 800 and grade the image to what you want. The point of overexposing is to raise the shadow detail above the noise floor so that when you correct the image, the noise gets buried. Of course you don't get anything for free because you might be clipping highlights if there is a lot of dynamic range in the shot.
@@Josh_Sattin yeah very poorly worded, sorry! I usually find if I overexpose with more light and drop below 800 to the correct exposure, I get about the same result: lower noise floor with a little less headroom in the highlights. Might be worth trying? Thanks for answering, Josh!
Ah then you aren't really overexposing then, you are just shifting stops of dynamic range to the shadows. This can have a similar effect in some situations. This can also be a useful technique in a scene without bright highlights. You can also raise your ISO above the base when shooting a scene without any strong shadows. I made a video about this: th-cam.com/video/AWzqLE64TzI/w-d-xo.html
@@Josh_Sattin yeah, exactly the technique you showed in an older video. I think it’s functionally similar, just one done in the camera and the other in the computer.
In some situations this will give a similar result. But when you change the ISO it has a different result. It shifts stops of dynamic range whereas overexposing maintains the most balanced image in terms of dynamic range.
If I have recorded a video on the R6 mark ii with C.LOG.3 on, can I recover the greyed-out video?
Yes, it needs to be color graded. Please check out this video to see my process: th-cam.com/video/JCDaz1Ewirg/w-d-xo.html
So no need to over expose for clog3 like in Sony slog3….correct?
I explain this in the video.
I do not understand why there is no false color on the R5 MKI !!? :/
Great video amigo, 1 stop overexposure I think will be a sweet spot. Thank you again for sharing. 👍🏻☀️🌴🌊🌋🏝📸☕
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
the r6 mark 2 has false color?? whaaaaaat that’s sick
Yeah man! It was definitely surprising that Canon tossed that in there. Of course the quirk with having to turn view assist off is silly, but yeah, false color.
It is extremely difficult to have correct exposure in an outdoor environment where the lighting conditions change quickly. At the same time, the profile log is "deified", ignoring that only very advanced users can handle it properly.
And we come to the most interesting: What other profiles do companies have on their cameras, and how reliable are they for the average user?
The only thing for sure: Canon is the ONLY COMPANY WHOSE "NORMAL" profiles HAVE 8 bits !!!! In 2023!!! And they ask for 3000 euros!!!!(Canon r6 ii)
Videography and flimmaking take a lot of practice and many repetitions to get better at it, regardless of what color profile you are shooting in. This goes for learning any skill really. As videographers and filmmakers, we should always try to get the most out of our cameras and shooting in a log profile will give us the most dynamic range and result in a higher quality image. In fact, exposing with log in an outdoor environment is actually easier because you have more dynamic range to work with, easier to keep your highlights from clipping and shadows from crushing. If you are recording in a non log profile, you will be more limited in your dynamic range and more likely to lose information in the highlights or shadows. Grading log footage is really not very difficult and many people find a LUT or two that will do the basic conversion for them. But, doing a basic conversion is actually pretty simple. As mentioned in this video, I made a simple guide to do this without a LUT: th-cam.com/video/JCDaz1Ewirg/w-d-xo.html
As far as Canon's decisions about 8-bit vs 10-bit in their standard profiles, yeah that's not cool.
@Josh Sattin I agree with everything you say!! Logs, profiles, need a lot of experience. Even professionals can "see" so much noise in their shots, from incorrect exposure. But what about the "ordinary" users? How big and noticeable is the difference in dynamic range?? THIS IS WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO HAVE GOOD "normal" profiles, ALWAYS 10bit, like fuji, like Panasonic, like Sony (=s cinetone). Canon???
I don't think shooting in log needs a lot of practice to get going. Once you can correct a basic image it gets easier. You just need to learn some basic grading skills. Go out and get some shots and practice a bit. In terms of dynamic range, it varies based on the camera and profile, but you usually lose quite a bit of dynamic range. One of the reason's why Sony's S-Cinetone is so popular is because it is a bit flatter than their standard profiles. Kind of in between log and standard. I am not here to justify any camera manufacturer's decisions. We are lucky to have so many options and such powerful cameras. If you can get an image out of a camera in a standard profile that you are happy with, then that's fine too. I can only speak for myself here, but when I switched to filming in log a few years ago it made a big difference in the quality of my work. But that being said, we all should be constantly trying to get better at our craft. There is almost infinite content on TH-cam to help us all level up together.
Clog3 🤢