Thank you Brian and Dwan for this. Just purchased this set up but with an Igaro charger and this will help me set it up. Looks like a sweet set up with the SON & Rohloff. Someone's had a sweet new bike day!
Thanks for putting this together. I have the same dynamo hub, light, and top cap sitting here ready to be assembled but hadn't found any other resource nearly as helpful that shows how to do that. Maybe as a follow-up, you could demo wiring in a rear light and how (if) Co-Motion puts in a connection like a Dyna-Snap for travel bikes with S and S couplers.
I would recommend some silicone caulk/glue on the white molex connector and wire ends to reduce strain, and reduce the chance of the plug coming out on those long bumpy roads. Nice video guys!
This setup is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo rad! I have a dynamo generator connected to a lauf fork and it really struggles to stay connected with all the vibrations from the lauf.
Very nice tidy job. :) IMHO I'd have left less loop at the bottom and put the dynamo tags more vertical behind the back edge of the fork though as I'd be scared of catching the loops on bushes. But other than that, great!
It looked like you cut steerer tube to 2-3mm above stem top to accommodate 5mm spacer, then USB cap? Would that be correct? Also wonder if it would be good to clarify orientation of notch in star nut when inserting so that the connecting wire is on the right side for the connection to the USB cap and wire isn’t twisted under it?
Ideally you want the steerer tube to be flush with the top of the stem or a little longer but not any shorter. The 5mm spacer provides room between the recessed top cap and steerer tube. Yes it would be good to clarify the orientation of the notching when using the Tout Terrain version of the plug. We have been using the Sinewave USB caps and the wiring is directly in the middle.
this looks rad as hell, and I see that it's even better now because SON sells a connector cable to do the splitting to a USB charging device at the light itself instead of a second cable to the hub. How do you connect a rear light though? I can't seem to see the back of one of these lights; do they have a separate cable?
Yes, SON is now offering coaxial cables with quick disconnects and extra port option to add USB devices inline. Rear lights are plugged in directly to the Edelux light housing, there's a dedicated port for this use.
@@co-motioncycles7269 Thanks for the quick response. After a bit more research, I think these two products the Edelux light and Cinq Plug is the way to go. You mention that it's easy to do this inline now quite easily. Do you need special connector cables though? The Edelux seems to come with an inline female coax port but the plug has the normal hub dual wiring. There are likely a couple ways to make the connection, which do you recommend?
@@lucash41 Hi Lucas, yes you add the SON coaxial junction box to the Edelux light or order this setup already pre-wired. Once you have the junction box installed you can add a USB port. To incorporate a USB top cap like the Sinewave or Cinq Plug, you would need to add a male coaxial plug to those factory wires then connect to the inline junction box. It seems that the factory installed junction box would be the easiest and cleanest route.
Power output is largely determined by wheel size, traveling speed and the device drawing the power. The nominal value is 6V and 3W of power. I don't know how much is lost in the rectifier. The SON hubs are the most efficient on the market.
That is the maximum current the wiring in the unit can safely handle. Unless it is germanium there will be a .6v drop across it (1.2 if it's full wave). Thanks.
@@tarstarkusz The Sinewave web site has some good information in the FAQ section. Output is fixed at 5V and the unit itself draws 1.6mA with nothing plugged in.
Hi, what is the reason to install the standard top cap first. Is the usb plug to fragile? I wonder what happens if I crash or my bike just falls over and the handlebar needs to be turned back into position. Does it mean I need to carry a spare top cap for propper reinstallment? Thanks a lot.
The after thought you came up with, The light stays on when the wheel is stopeded, This is what I was looking for. But I need to know how long for, For traffic lights 3 minutes, For repairs 30 minutes. At nighte, 4 of us with dynamos, Stopt at traffic lightes, Traffic police glaring at us. One of us would spin our front wheel for them, A pain.
True, dynamo lights are not that useful when the bike is stopped for more than a couple of minutes. However they are very useful on a bike tour or during the commute.
@@justpassingthrough4802 $175 for the plug (+ $15 for an expander wedge in place of the star-fangled nut shown here because you can't / shouldn't use them with a carbon steerer.)
Plug 5 is now 127 euro's in Europe, got down quite a bit last two years. In combination with a self build wheel with Shutter Precision hub, you could be ready for about 400-450 euro's for a front wheel with hub and plug 5. That sounds like a good deal.
Nothing at all was shown of the Son dynamo hub, Or the price of the unit, In another video a price was mentioned for a hub on a wheel, $1,000. So we can scrub that one.
Jack, the Pathfinder upgrade on a new Co-Motion is only $595 and includes a SON28 dynamo hub, Edelux II light, Co-Motion light mount and a Sinewave USB top cap. It's a great deal.
That's not it. Now comes adjustment of the headlight beam so it lights the road and not the pearly whites of oncoming cyclists who show their teeth in fear because they are blinded by your glare. With powerful LED lighting, cyclists have become as much offenders in that department as rude motorists who won't turn their high beams down. Sorry, pet peeve of mine. I commute by bike all year round, and fellow cyclists who view their lamps as penis crutches are a real nuisance.
@@Piplodocus All the more reason to adjust them properly. With cheap rotary symmetric conical beams you can't really do it right; if the light is designed for the road, you can.
For a supposedly professional outfit this video was TERRIBLE. Too much back ground noise, you would have thought this company would record at a more suitable time and the camera work was atrocious. Very little was in focus. Awful.
This is such a janky job, why not attach the wire around the for crown and not have it as a limiting factor for larger tyres. Second thing is that the piggy back connectors are not waterproof and will corrode ( you can clearly see the gap even with the shrinking tube. Come on...
There are different ways to achieve the same goal, obviously this is just one method for consideration. We've had great success with this cable routing for many years.
Great feedback thank you. This was the first video we shot with a new camera and we decided to upload the video anyway to get the information out. We had plans to film a new video but we've been too busy building bikes.
Hi Christian, our goal was to provide the steps and tools necessary for the installation of the light and top cap. We're not trying to sell videos here.
I am so grateful to you for this video. I am having to do this next week. Without your video, I would have no idea.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Brian and Dwan for this. Just purchased this set up but with an Igaro charger and this will help me set it up. Looks like a sweet set up with the SON & Rohloff. Someone's had a sweet new bike day!
I know that you made this years ago and that the sound quality was bad ... but honestly it was REALLY helpful this weekend.
Thank you this was a really useful video. I can see some people didnt appreciate it but I really did. Very helpful. Thank you.
A very helpful, no nonsense vid. Many thanks
Thanks! I can't afford your bikes yet but I am very impressed.
Wow! great light set up
Thanks for putting this together. I have the same dynamo hub, light, and top cap sitting here ready to be assembled but hadn't found any other resource nearly as helpful that shows how to do that. Maybe as a follow-up, you could demo wiring in a rear light and how (if) Co-Motion puts in a connection like a Dyna-Snap for travel bikes with S and S couplers.
I would recommend some silicone caulk/glue on the white molex connector and wire ends to reduce strain, and reduce the chance of the plug coming out on those long bumpy roads. Nice video guys!
This setup is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo rad! I have a dynamo generator connected to a lauf fork and it really struggles to stay connected with all the vibrations from the lauf.
Very nice tidy job. :) IMHO I'd have left less loop at the bottom and put the dynamo tags more vertical behind the back edge of the fork though as I'd be scared of catching the loops on bushes. But other than that, great!
That's what I was also thinking.
Merci infiniment pour votre aide
Bon travail
Hi, how would one connect a rear light to the front light? what type of connectors are needed and does the rearlight include cables?
The Edelux light has a port specifically for connecting a rear dynamo light. Most rear lights do include the necessary wiring.
Thank you for the helpful video and the response! May you have a good day!
What comes out then SON? AC or Dc?
Just Awesome :) & Many Thanks :)
Glad you like it!
Hate that man on Camera who failed to focus and hurting the viewers. Thanks for making the video and thanks to the person explaining nicely.
Don't blame the CameraBloke, autofocus ain't perfect.
It looked like you cut steerer tube to 2-3mm above stem top to accommodate 5mm spacer, then USB cap? Would that be correct?
Also wonder if it would be good to clarify orientation of notch in star nut when inserting so that the connecting wire is on the right side for the connection to the USB cap and wire isn’t twisted under it?
Ideally you want the steerer tube to be flush with the top of the stem or a little longer but not any shorter. The 5mm spacer provides room between the recessed top cap and steerer tube. Yes it would be good to clarify the orientation of the notching when using the Tout Terrain version of the plug. We have been using the Sinewave USB caps and the wiring is directly in the middle.
@@co-motioncycles7269 Thanks. That clarifies it. I’d assume having the steerer just a little above the stem would allow the spacer to locate in place.
@@keithslater340 Exactly!
this looks rad as hell, and I see that it's even better now because SON sells a connector cable to do the splitting to a USB charging device at the light itself instead of a second cable to the hub. How do you connect a rear light though? I can't seem to see the back of one of these lights; do they have a separate cable?
Yes, SON is now offering coaxial cables with quick disconnects and extra port option to add USB devices inline. Rear lights are plugged in directly to the Edelux light housing, there's a dedicated port for this use.
@@co-motioncycles7269 Thanks for the quick response. After a bit more research, I think these two products the Edelux light and Cinq Plug is the way to go. You mention that it's easy to do this inline now quite easily. Do you need special connector cables though? The Edelux seems to come with an inline female coax port but the plug has the normal hub dual wiring. There are likely a couple ways to make the connection, which do you recommend?
@@lucash41 Hi Lucas, yes you add the SON coaxial junction box to the Edelux light or order this setup already pre-wired. Once you have the junction box installed you can add a USB port. To incorporate a USB top cap like the Sinewave or Cinq Plug, you would need to add a male coaxial plug to those factory wires then connect to the inline junction box. It seems that the factory installed junction box would be the easiest and cleanest route.
What size were the piggy back connectors?
How much power is lost in the rectifier? How much power does the hub generate and exactly how much power is available at the USB jack?
Power output is largely determined by wheel size, traveling speed and the device drawing the power. The nominal value is 6V and 3W of power. I don't know how much is lost in the rectifier. The SON hubs are the most efficient on the market.
It wouldn't surprise me if you were limited to 2 watts at the jack.
@@tarstarkusz Sinewave lists the spec as Max current: 1 Amp
That is the maximum current the wiring in the unit can safely handle. Unless it is germanium there will be a .6v drop across it (1.2 if it's full wave).
Thanks.
@@tarstarkusz The Sinewave web site has some good information in the FAQ section. Output is fixed at 5V and the unit itself draws 1.6mA with nothing plugged in.
Helpful information, sure, but why record with all that awful background noise going on???
What was that i could not hear you?
Sorry for the background noise Tomo, busy day in the shop!
Very neat
Hi, what is the reason to install the standard top cap first. Is the usb plug to fragile? I wonder what happens if I crash or my bike just falls over and the handlebar needs to be turned back into position. Does it mean I need to carry a spare top cap for propper reinstallment? Thanks a lot.
This is per the USB top-cap manufacturer's recommendation. If you don't over torque the unit, you are probably okay with stem adjustments.
Can you charge a 12v pocket battery bank with this?
If the battery bank utilizes a USB charging cord then it should work.
Thanks!!!
The after thought you came up with, The light stays on when the wheel is stopeded, This is what I was looking for. But I need to know how long for, For traffic lights 3 minutes, For repairs 30 minutes. At nighte, 4 of us with dynamos, Stopt at traffic lightes, Traffic police glaring at us. One of us would spin our front wheel for them, A pain.
True, dynamo lights are not that useful when the bike is stopped for more than a couple of minutes. However they are very useful on a bike tour or during the commute.
You need a USB rechargeable light for 30 minutes, dynamo lights are just essential lightning.
Best bicycle
What do you for a rear red light ?
Lots of folks are either adding a rear light that is wired into the Edelux or using a battery operated rear light.
I'd plug the bottom and tape/mark the top before winding up the extra. not tested.
Good info but if you're going to make a video, please do it out of hours the background workshop noise was a distraction
The price of the plug is rediculous
How much?
@@justpassingthrough4802 $175 for the plug (+ $15 for an expander wedge in place of the star-fangled nut shown here because you can't / shouldn't use them with a carbon steerer.)
Plug 5 is now 127 euro's in Europe, got down quite a bit last two years. In combination with a self build wheel with Shutter Precision hub, you could be ready for about 400-450 euro's for a front wheel with hub and plug 5. That sounds like a good deal.
Nothing at all was shown of the Son dynamo hub, Or the price of the unit, In another video a price was mentioned for a hub on a wheel, $1,000. So we can scrub that one.
Jack, the Pathfinder upgrade on a new Co-Motion is only $595 and includes a SON28 dynamo hub, Edelux II light, Co-Motion light mount and a Sinewave USB top cap. It's a great deal.
@@co-motioncycles7269 That sounds like an excellent upgrade. Pretty sure it's cheaper than getting the bits separately.
@@co-motioncycles7269hi mate where I can buy all that stuff
@@azamzain4730 direct from us in Eugene, Oregon. Just give us a call or contact us through our web site.
That's not it. Now comes adjustment of the headlight beam so it lights the road and not the pearly whites of oncoming cyclists who show their teeth in fear because they are blinded by your glare.
With powerful LED lighting, cyclists have become as much offenders in that department as rude motorists who won't turn their high beams down.
Sorry, pet peeve of mine. I commute by bike all year round, and fellow cyclists who view their lamps as penis crutches are a real nuisance.
Those edelux lights have a proper road shaped beam tho', so are bright in the right places at least.
@@Piplodocus All the more reason to adjust them properly. With cheap rotary symmetric conical beams you can't really do it right; if the light is designed for the road, you can.
So true, sadly. And, does anyone else feel mental wit all the strobe mode?
gents, please. just take a fix zoom camera and get a pair of microphones.
Not to be negative but for the price of those accessories they could have afford to use 90 degrees terminal ends .10:00....lol
David these are the supplied connectors with the light. They now offer a coaxial connector with 90-degree feature.
Cameraman is Captain Obvious
i can smell the mogadon
That was painful. Sorry but I gave up on it. Thanks for trying.
Gave up after 1 minute as too much background noise and poor camera shots most out of focus.
Alex Morgan not to mention his voice. That droning monotone that either says “I don’t care,” “I’m not really sure what I’m talking about,” or both...
and don't even mention the poor skilled mechanic...
Agree I gave up around the 1 minute mark too
@@martys9041 y'all realize they're back there building frames right? Work doesn't stop so they can shoot a youtube video lol
Thanks Alex, we agree there was lots of production going on that day and using a new camera probably wasn't the best choice for clarity.
you need a much better crimping tool, those wires will pull out easily
There are definitely some really nice crimping tools on the market. These work well if used properly.
For a supposedly professional outfit this video was TERRIBLE. Too much back ground noise, you would have thought this company would record at a more suitable time and the camera work was atrocious. Very little was in focus. Awful.
Please read the video description in the header. We are not professional videographers.
This is such a janky job, why not attach the wire around the for crown and not have it as a limiting factor for larger tyres. Second thing is that the piggy back connectors are not waterproof and will corrode ( you can clearly see the gap even with the shrinking tube. Come on...
There are different ways to achieve the same goal, obviously this is just one method for consideration. We've had great success with this cable routing for many years.
Nasty camera work. Dont try film production just yet
Great feedback thank you. This was the first video we shot with a new camera and we decided to upload the video anyway to get the information out. We had plans to film a new video but we've been too busy building bikes.
You would think Co-Motion could do it better. Pretty disappointing.
Hi Christian, our goal was to provide the steps and tools necessary for the installation of the light and top cap. We're not trying to sell videos here.