I'm currently using 0.65 multiplier, while including a white filament (the auto calc goes into the red if i lower it)This video is great.👍🏼 I'd love an update with some other colours included.
Thanks for the comment and the feedback. Will do. I've got white filament on the way. It might not be a complete video, but definitely a community post with pictures of the results.
I knew this was going to be a comment. Those were the colors I had on hand. Ive got white on order and will post pictures in the community tab of the results.
Appreciate this 🤘🤘Fairly new to the Bambu world and want to reduce my wasted filament. I ran 0.39 with Black, White, and Yellow and a reduced Prime Tower... The white and yellow really showed that I wasn't purging enough.
Appreciate the comment. Yeah results will vary. I really should have ran some white tests in this video cause they are more likely to show color bleed from other filaments.
When flushing into objects, it is crucial to print at least 3 perimeters, otherwise, you see dark colour printed infills through the wall and it looks like bleeding. I ended up printing with at least 0.6 multiplayer, as I had sometimes bleeding.
where numbers below .5 in the multiplier start failing is when you're flushing to infill. you really need to have thick walls in some cases to avoid the color bleeding out through the insides . i usually manually set all my numbers to 185mm3 instead of using the multiplier, and then adjust from there instead.
That's good to know. I haven't done much flushing into objects but I'll keep this in mind when I explore that setting further. Do you have a list of colors that 185mm3 doesn't work for?
@@3DPrintStuff black/white is rough. orange or red and black is rough, anything similar tones to those will likely be the same but then surprisingly things like silver and red.. fine.. silver and black.. fine.. it really depends on how much color is in the PLA but assume anything with black you may want to bump up to ~210 or put a modifier object to give areas that overlap with infill an extra wall. a good thing is when you flush to infill you can actually see what colors are going where in the infill to get some sort of estimation where overlaps may happen. you can actually use it to interesting effect. example, i printed a goku with black shirt and uv orange gi and the shirt peeked out from under the gi making it look a bit like you can see the actual undershirt through it. happy accidents.
I’d say if the 0.0 part is fully functional it’s a win if color is not the main objective. I’d imagine if one was strategic with color choices in the AMS and print file, waste can be minimized and colors can blend intentionally for a more desirable result (granted color is not the main objective). Thanks for this vid! Great resource.
I think the colors you chose are are able to absorb color bleed. Try White, Red, Purple, Yellow combo. I think you will find that you can't go as low as 0.1
Would totally like to see the flushing into object tests - I often make stuff "for the shop" where it isn't super critical to have it a particular color, so saving on filament (if for no other reason than reducing trash) is great. Thank you!!
I think about this quite a bit and it's hard to find objects that are: -useful -you need multiple of -are as tall or taller than the multicolor part I'll keep your comment in mind.
Hey thanks a bunch - learned a lot! I'll likely be using .25 multiplier + flushing into a different object I was going to bring anyway. My waste went from like 80g to 2.8g. :D
Another way to derive the correct amount of purge would be to take the “purds”, then snip off and weigh the amount of filament wasted past the perceptible transition point. Subtract that (with a small buffer) from the flushing volume used per transition (you’d have to convert grams to mm^3). Since contrast affects this, it would need to be done for a few different color changes.
I did a black and white killer whale with no tower and .15 flushing and flush to infill and the white was still pretty bright with only a slight tinge of grey in some areas. Don't be afraid of those red numbers. If I can figure out retraction somewhere that might help a lot as well.
Nice one, now you have a new abo. Like to see more of this detailed experiments. Flush into objects is interesting and I’m planning doing it. I don’t multicolour print and use the ams only for comfort. Maybe you could play around with flush into infill, so less waste and stronger part’s with cranked up infill. Will it reduce the waste so you could get one perfect part and maybe a flushed one with less infill. To find the sweet spot could be difficult though, depending on the objects.
Yeah it all comes down to the geometry at that point. But if you have a sacrificial part that has consistent surface area on all the layer (an extruded shape) you could pump out "free" functional parts that don't need to look very good. But now you need to find something worth printing every time you want to do a multi color print.
I've done some testing of this and I can only guess you're using PLA here. The filament you're using is all opaque, which makes things a lot easier. You also lack white. Using white and black or strong colours. even opaque, can be more tricky than this. If you try translucent filament, it gets even worse. If you move to PETG, more so and for ABS, you have to purge a lot, really! I usually use a purge ratio of 0,6 or thereabouts, just to be on the safe side, but for ABS, that didn't work at all, the black blended into the red and it was no good. This was with ABS+ from eSun, so not "true" ABS, but I can only guess the same rule applies. Please do more testing on this, as it's really interesting and thanks for this one :) roy
Yeah this testing was using PLA and you're right the choice of color could be better. Including white and translucent filaments would be a great follow up. Interesting to hear PETG and ABS require lots of purging. Glad you liked the video.
Yes, flushing volumes ABSOLUTELY matter on the X1C. Thankfully, if it's flushing a different colour (as opposed to different material) then you can use a few tricks like flush to infill to seriously reduce the waste.
Nice video! Very good information. I can't believe how much unnecessary filament is being purged on standard settings! IMO that's a irresponsible mistake
They definitely could make an effort to lower the standard settings. But I also think that the way filament curls up into a ball and falls down the back chute during color changes is more consistent at higher purge volumes. At the standard settings it becomes these nice curled up balls with enough weight to make sure it falls down the chute and comes off the hot end. At lower volumes it's kinda wispy and doesn't always go down the chute but ends up in the print. Who knows if the engineers at Bambu Lab noticed the same thing and made the purge volumes intentionally large for this reason or just for color changing purposes.
Good vid thx! One thing that gets me, is the auto calculator button. Man... I throws out some crazy numbers. Maybe you can help me/us understand THAT! 👍👍
Your guess is as good as mine! If I were the one trying to come up with a solution for calculating those numbers I’d probably approach it like this: convert the colors to gray scale, treat black to white as the largest number, white to black as the smallest number and then scale everything in between. Your comment does make me want to dig into this.
Great test. Interesting to see how much you can play with these values. Still, my biggest takeaway is that you're printing an object of 7,7 grams and end up with at least 5 times that weight in waste in the best case scenario (37,1grams of waste at 0,1 flushing volume). Obviously this varies depending on where the colour change takes place, but this is still a very wasteful method. It also increases the print time considerably. While this is no fault of Bambu Labs and the results are still fantastic, the waste is certainly a factor. I don't own a Bambu Labs printer, so I can't check, but is there a way to play with the prime tower as well? That stays at 11,4grams for all prints.
Yeah you can definitely play with the print setup to make the waste look better or worse. The print to waste ratio gets better as you increase the coverage of the build plate. With this smaller print it looks pretty bad. The prime tower can indeed be adjusted to reduce the amount of plastic used. That may be it's own video at some point. It would be cool to have a budget option for recycling the waste material into new spools of filament, maybe someone will come out with something like this as a response to this printer.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah, an interesting fact would be probably that it doesn't matter how many objects you print if they fit. The wase would be more a formula calculated from how many color changes you got per layer, for which your object is super non-optimal ;)
Are your first layers good? By the looks of the underside of the first layer it looks off a bit. The uniformity seems inconsistent. But, either way good information. I heard many say it could be done but you’re the first I’ve seen do tests. Do you think it was worth it? Is it all the rage is made out to be? What others printers did you use before this?
I think what you're seeing on the bottom is the glue from the build plate. But I'll give the prints a wash when I get home and post some pictures to the community tab. I do think it's worth it. The experience has ben pretty painless and I'm always amazed by the speed/quality. Idk if it deserves all the rage but it is definitely a huge step forward in this price category. I got a Monoprice Maker Select v2 in 2017, used that to learn the basics. Sold that in 2019 because I didn't have the space for it. Bought an Ender 3 V2 in 2020 to get back into the hobby and started making timelpases of the printing process. Bought the X1-Carbon in December 2022. We have an Ultimaker S5 with the multi-material handler and air handler at work that I've used and done maintenance on. That package is in the $8,000 range. I'd say bambu is a better purchase than that Ultimaker. You could get 4 x1-carbons for that price and the printing experience is faster and the quality is pretty much identical. I also have a mars 3 pro resin printer but that's not really relevant.
@@3DPrintStuff 8k ouch! But, if ya got the cash why not? Yeah it’s hard to tell from a video. It looks as if it’s to low on the z. Close. But, checking the first layer from the underside is had to tell given the bed can leave a smooth or textured pattern that covers up a lot of first layer imperfections. Plus the lighting can play tricks on you too. I am on the fence about getting one. Most video’s I’ve seen on the X1 have had pretty good to almost perfect prints. But, the videos are starting to surface showing bad prints and machines breaking with some issues with getting replacement parts. Another thing I’ve noticed the noise factor is up there. Yeah it prints fast but they need to give you noise cancellation headphones with it. LoL 😂 I guess I am looking for an upgrade to my Prusa. I an in the process of building a CoreXY from scratch. Taking the good bits from Rat-rig, Voron, HevORT and VzBot. It’s not going to be a Benchy speed tester… but, just looking to double the speeds of my cartesian style bed shaker and improve the quality. Less artifacts on the Core XY in most cases. Knock on wood. 🤛
@@peterwalker5413 Yeah the noise is definitely something that needs to be considered. This thing is freaking loud. I had it in my office and really couldn't stand it so I moved in into the garage. Even if you replace all the fans with silent fans the movements themselves can be incredibly loud.
I've just been printing them at default settings that match yours. Width: 35mm Prime Volume: 45mm^3 Brim Width: 3mm I'd like to experiment with the prime tower to reduce the amount of filament it uses. The ones in the video were 11.3g each.
What about the print quality? I have messed up colours with black and white filaments. Grey/Black circles in the white area. Any suggestions how to avoid messed up colors in the print? Settings?
I've done some further testing with white/black/red and I'd keep the flushing multiplier at 0.5. You can see those results at the beginning of this video: th-cam.com/video/h1XCX8-v18M/w-d-xo.html
@@3DPrintStuff thank you. I found out that the prime brick along with flush value to 800 between black and white helped to create a perfect print with white and black filaments.
@@3DPrintStuff I really tried everything without success. Even just increasing the flush from black to white to max = 800 did not help. So I tried the prime tower and voila! Everything worked fine! So maybe I dont have to flush so much and just use the Prime Tower instead? I will definatley give it a try, because currently I create a loooooot of waste lol. I will for sure take a look at all your videos next, to see how I can improve. Thanks a lot.
I don't think the flush need to be the high due the prime tower. You just need enough flush to get the filiment out that the printer cut off and let the new colour out. Then the rest will be done in the prime tower
Hard to say an exact amount but from what I've seen stuck in my prints when not using a prime tower. It's about 3 to 4 centimeter strands hanging out of the print.
There is an option to use the flushed material as support material. wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change under flush options
It will, but I’ve found that I get a bunch of strings and blobs in my printed part without the purge block. I’m going to start experimenting with reducing the purge tower quantities, but not removing it entirely.
@@nazrisemuni224 It’s a great printer for a beginner in my opinion. Bambu labs have done a good job of making the process as painless as they can. You’ll still have some stuff to learn but that’s part of the fun.
I don’t understand why when you “flush into objects” you end up with even more mass wasted! I would like to see this fixed in the software so that the printer knows to spend all of the filament it can in the flush objects. A lot of objects I print are going to get painted anyway, so getting to print multicolor AND reduce waste into other objects would be amazing.
@@bobhuffman7412 Not sure which portion of the video you're referring to. www.youtube.com/@3DPrintStuff/community on my community tab you can see a picture of the test pieces. The 1.0 and 0.1 are pretty clear. Can you provide me with a timestamp of when I mixed them up. I'd prefer not to make the same mistake in the future.
@@3DPrintStuff you're doing a great job, it reminded me of a comedy sketch (Seinfeld?) where a handwritten raffle ticket of 91, could be read as 16, so there could be two winners, lol
www.youtube.com/@3DPrintStuff/community one of my community posts shows that the order goes back and forth. You can see red and black in the white portions of one of these tests. Wrong handed haha I'll work on changing that.
There are some additional pictures of the test pieces on my community tab: th-cam.com/channels/VF7Qr-A2U9IAvB5eWL5yyw.htmlcommunity
I'm currently using 0.65 multiplier, while including a white filament (the auto calc goes into the red if i lower it)This video is great.👍🏼
I'd love an update with some other colours included.
good to know. I was just going to ask this question
Thanks for the comment and the feedback. Will do. I've got white filament on the way. It might not be a complete video, but definitely a community post with pictures of the results.
one of the colours should have been white .
I knew this was going to be a comment. Those were the colors I had on hand. Ive got white on order and will post pictures in the community tab of the results.
Definitely need white much easier to see the bleed.
@@3DPrintStuff Please choose a slightly translucent white. I mean a white where you need at least 0.6mm layers to not see the colour underneath.
Appreciate this 🤘🤘Fairly new to the Bambu world and want to reduce my wasted filament. I ran 0.39 with Black, White, and Yellow and a reduced Prime Tower... The white and yellow really showed that I wasn't purging enough.
Appreciate the comment. Yeah results will vary. I really should have ran some white tests in this video cause they are more likely to show color bleed from other filaments.
When flushing into objects, it is crucial to print at least 3 perimeters, otherwise, you see dark colour printed infills through the wall and it looks like bleeding. I ended up printing with at least 0.6 multiplayer, as I had sometimes bleeding.
That's good to know. I'll keep it in mind when doing "flush into object" tests.
thank you very much for your findings! I will try 0.5 multiplyer for now and still save tons of waste 😊
Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
where numbers below .5 in the multiplier start failing is when you're flushing to infill. you really need to have thick walls in some cases to avoid the color bleeding out through the insides . i usually manually set all my numbers to 185mm3 instead of using the multiplier, and then adjust from there instead.
That's good to know. I haven't done much flushing into objects but I'll keep this in mind when I explore that setting further. Do you have a list of colors that 185mm3 doesn't work for?
@@3DPrintStuff black/white is rough. orange or red and black is rough, anything similar tones to those will likely be the same but then surprisingly things like silver and red.. fine.. silver and black.. fine.. it really depends on how much color is in the PLA but assume anything with black you may want to bump up to ~210 or put a modifier object to give areas that overlap with infill an extra wall. a good thing is when you flush to infill you can actually see what colors are going where in the infill to get some sort of estimation where overlaps may happen. you can actually use it to interesting effect. example, i printed a goku with black shirt and uv orange gi and the shirt peeked out from under the gi making it look a bit like you can see the actual undershirt through it. happy accidents.
I’d say if the 0.0 part is fully functional it’s a win if color is not the main objective. I’d imagine if one was strategic with color choices in the AMS and print file, waste can be minimized and colors can blend intentionally for a more desirable result (granted color is not the main objective). Thanks for this vid! Great resource.
I think the colors you chose are are able to absorb color bleed. Try White, Red, Purple, Yellow combo. I think you will find that you can't go as low as 0.1
That may be the case, these were just the colors I had on hand. I have white filament now that I'll test against red and black.
Would totally like to see the flushing into object tests - I often make stuff "for the shop" where it isn't super critical to have it a particular color, so saving on filament (if for no other reason than reducing trash) is great. Thank you!!
I think about this quite a bit and it's hard to find objects that are:
-useful
-you need multiple of
-are as tall or taller than the multicolor part
I'll keep your comment in mind.
Hey thanks a bunch - learned a lot! I'll likely be using .25 multiplier + flushing into a different object I was going to bring anyway. My waste went from like 80g to 2.8g. :D
Thanks for your work. You fixed my x1c. Thank you
Really useful experiment and great video. It would be interesting to do a similar titration with the prime tower size/volume.
Another way to derive the correct amount of purge would be to take the “purds”, then snip off and weigh the amount of filament wasted past the perceptible transition point. Subtract that (with a small buffer) from the flushing volume used per transition (you’d have to convert grams to mm^3). Since contrast affects this, it would need to be done for a few different color changes.
Great Job testing! Thank you!
Thanks for the comment :)
I did a black and white killer whale with no tower and .15 flushing and flush to infill and the white was still pretty bright with only a slight tinge of grey in some areas. Don't be afraid of those red numbers. If I can figure out retraction somewhere that might help a lot as well.
This helped me SO much! Thank you for the video!
You're welcome, glad you found it useful.
Awesome test! Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! and you're welcome.
Super helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice one, now you have a new abo. Like to see more of this detailed experiments.
Flush into objects is interesting and I’m planning doing it. I don’t multicolour print and use the ams only for comfort.
Maybe you could play around with flush into infill, so less waste and stronger part’s with cranked up infill. Will it reduce the waste so you could get one perfect part and maybe a flushed one with less infill. To find the sweet spot could be difficult though, depending on the objects.
Yeah it all comes down to the geometry at that point. But if you have a sacrificial part that has consistent surface area on all the layer (an extruded shape) you could pump out "free" functional parts that don't need to look very good.
But now you need to find something worth printing every time you want to do a multi color print.
Changing materials also requires a much higher purge multiplier.
Thank you so much for this video. Very helpful and to the point.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment
Great stuff here. Thanks for the useful information and video.
I've done some testing of this and I can only guess you're using PLA here. The filament you're using is all opaque, which makes things a lot easier. You also lack white. Using white and black or strong colours. even opaque, can be more tricky than this. If you try translucent filament, it gets even worse. If you move to PETG, more so and for ABS, you have to purge a lot, really! I usually use a purge ratio of 0,6 or thereabouts, just to be on the safe side, but for ABS, that didn't work at all, the black blended into the red and it was no good. This was with ABS+ from eSun, so not "true" ABS, but I can only guess the same rule applies.
Please do more testing on this, as it's really interesting and thanks for this one :)
roy
Yeah this testing was using PLA and you're right the choice of color could be better. Including white and translucent filaments would be a great follow up. Interesting to hear PETG and ABS require lots of purging.
Glad you liked the video.
Very informative, thank you !
You're welcome, thanks for the comment.
A black/white or white/red test would be interesting g to see
It definitely would, I’ll run some more tests when I receive my order of white filament.
Great vid man.
Thanks, appreciate the comment.
A test with white would be more helpful, because now you are using all colored filaments, but white could lead to issues.
Yeah I did some follow up tests with white that can be found on my channels community tab.
Yes, flushing volumes ABSOLUTELY matter on the X1C. Thankfully, if it's flushing a different colour (as opposed to different material) then you can use a few tricks like flush to infill to seriously reduce the waste.
Nice video! Very good information. I can't believe how much unnecessary filament is being purged on standard settings! IMO that's a irresponsible mistake
They definitely could make an effort to lower the standard settings. But I also think that the way filament curls up into a ball and falls down the back chute during color changes is more consistent at higher purge volumes. At the standard settings it becomes these nice curled up balls with enough weight to make sure it falls down the chute and comes off the hot end. At lower volumes it's kinda wispy and doesn't always go down the chute but ends up in the print. Who knows if the engineers at Bambu Lab noticed the same thing and made the purge volumes intentionally large for this reason or just for color changing purposes.
Good vid thx! One thing that gets me, is the auto calculator button. Man... I throws out some crazy numbers. Maybe you can help me/us understand THAT! 👍👍
Your guess is as good as mine! If I were the one trying to come up with a solution for calculating those numbers I’d probably approach it like this: convert the colors to gray scale, treat black to white as the largest number, white to black as the smallest number and then scale everything in between.
Your comment does make me want to dig into this.
Why not BBL use the built-in camera, to find start of extrusion, instead of dumping a lot(over time) of filament wastefully. Just some 💭♥️👍
When using support w material or petg as contact layer one still has to do a full flush.. there the double/multiextruder would be it ;)
Yeah that makes sense. A multi extruder would definitely have it's advantages.
Good test
Thanks
Are you re calculating after each change of multiplier?
Good video.
Great test. Interesting to see how much you can play with these values. Still, my biggest takeaway is that you're printing an object of 7,7 grams and end up with at least 5 times that weight in waste in the best case scenario (37,1grams of waste at 0,1 flushing volume). Obviously this varies depending on where the colour change takes place, but this is still a very wasteful method. It also increases the print time considerably. While this is no fault of Bambu Labs and the results are still fantastic, the waste is certainly a factor.
I don't own a Bambu Labs printer, so I can't check, but is there a way to play with the prime tower as well? That stays at 11,4grams for all prints.
Yeah you can definitely play with the print setup to make the waste look better or worse. The print to waste ratio gets better as you increase the coverage of the build plate. With this smaller print it looks pretty bad.
The prime tower can indeed be adjusted to reduce the amount of plastic used. That may be it's own video at some point.
It would be cool to have a budget option for recycling the waste material into new spools of filament, maybe someone will come out with something like this as a response to this printer.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah, an interesting fact would be probably that it doesn't matter how many objects you print if they fit. The wase would be more a formula calculated from how many color changes you got per layer, for which your object is super non-optimal ;)
Are your first layers good? By the looks of the underside of the first layer it looks off a bit. The uniformity seems inconsistent.
But, either way good information. I heard many say it could be done but you’re the first I’ve seen do tests.
Do you think it was worth it? Is it all the rage is made out to be? What others printers did you use before this?
I think what you're seeing on the bottom is the glue from the build plate. But I'll give the prints a wash when I get home and post some pictures to the community tab.
I do think it's worth it. The experience has ben pretty painless and I'm always amazed by the speed/quality.
Idk if it deserves all the rage but it is definitely a huge step forward in this price category.
I got a Monoprice Maker Select v2 in 2017, used that to learn the basics. Sold that in 2019 because I didn't have the space for it. Bought an Ender 3 V2 in 2020 to get back into the hobby and started making timelpases of the printing process. Bought the X1-Carbon in December 2022.
We have an Ultimaker S5 with the multi-material handler and air handler at work that I've used and done maintenance on. That package is in the $8,000 range. I'd say bambu is a better purchase than that Ultimaker. You could get 4 x1-carbons for that price and the printing experience is faster and the quality is pretty much identical.
I also have a mars 3 pro resin printer but that's not really relevant.
@@3DPrintStuff 8k ouch! But, if ya got the cash why not? Yeah it’s hard to tell from a video. It looks as if it’s to low on the z. Close. But, checking the first layer from the underside is had to tell given the bed can leave a smooth or textured pattern that covers up a lot of first layer imperfections. Plus the lighting can play tricks on you too.
I am on the fence about getting one. Most video’s I’ve seen on the X1 have had pretty good to almost perfect prints. But, the videos are starting to surface showing bad prints and machines breaking with some issues with getting replacement parts. Another thing I’ve noticed the noise factor is up there. Yeah it prints fast but they need to give you noise cancellation headphones with it. LoL 😂
I guess I am looking for an upgrade to my Prusa. I an in the process of building a CoreXY from scratch. Taking the good bits from Rat-rig, Voron, HevORT and VzBot. It’s not going to be a Benchy speed tester… but, just looking to double the speeds of my cartesian style bed shaker and improve the quality. Less artifacts on the Core XY in most cases. Knock on wood. 🤛
@@peterwalker5413 Yeah the noise is definitely something that needs to be considered. This thing is freaking loud. I had it in my office and really couldn't stand it so I moved in into the garage. Even if you replace all the fans with silent fans the movements themselves can be incredibly loud.
@@3DPrintStuff I hear that Bambu is looking into some kind of sound dampening for the outer panels. It’s not going to do much for p1p customers.
How big is the prime tower you're using, I've lowered mine down to 35 width 45 prime volume and brim width of 3
I've just been printing them at default settings that match yours.
Width: 35mm
Prime Volume: 45mm^3
Brim Width: 3mm
I'd like to experiment with the prime tower to reduce the amount of filament it uses. The ones in the video were 11.3g each.
Excellent video. I’m wondering how would this look with lighter colors and white.
I have some pictures of a RED-WHITE-BLACK test on my channels community tab. The white gets pretty dirty at the lower flushing volumes.
@@3DPrintStuff ok I was wondering. This is great stuff. Super helpful thanks again. Subscribed
@@rueben68 Glad it was helpful, thanks for the sub.
What about the print quality? I have messed up colours with black and white filaments. Grey/Black circles in the white area. Any suggestions how to avoid messed up colors in the print? Settings?
I've done some further testing with white/black/red and I'd keep the flushing multiplier at 0.5. You can see those results at the beginning of this video: th-cam.com/video/h1XCX8-v18M/w-d-xo.html
@@3DPrintStuff thank you. I found out that the prime brick along with flush value to 800 between black and white helped to create a perfect print with white and black filaments.
Prime brick can be activated in Bambu Studio under “others” right below the Brim option.
@@Finsterwald_ Yeah prime towers are definitely recommended to avoid random blobs in your multicolor prints. They should be enabled by default.
@@3DPrintStuff I really tried everything without success. Even just increasing the flush from black to white to max = 800 did not help. So I tried the prime tower and voila! Everything worked fine! So maybe I dont have to flush so much and just use the Prime Tower instead? I will definatley give it a try, because currently I create a loooooot of waste lol. I will for sure take a look at all your videos next, to see how I can improve. Thanks a lot.
So are you guys using the auto calc then just dropping the multiplier ?
That is how I have been approaching these tests. I'd like to do tests to determine an absolute number instead.
I am the 1000th subscriber
Thanks for the support! 🎉🥳
I don't think the flush need to be the high due the prime tower. You just need enough flush to get the filiment out that the printer cut off and let the new colour out. Then the rest will be done in the prime tower
Yeah I thought I might even be able to get away with 0 flushing based on how big the prime tower is but I was very wrong about that.
@@3DPrintStuff Do you really need really need the prime tower if you slight incresse the purge amount or is there less waste using the prime tower
What's the difference in print times?
Default Auto-calc flushing volumes 6h34m
0.5 multiplier 5h28m
0.2 multiplier 4h58m
0.0 multiplier 4h26m
How much filliment leeks out the nozzle after it purges and wipes the nozzle.
Hard to say an exact amount but from what I've seen stuck in my prints when not using a prime tower. It's about 3 to 4 centimeter strands hanging out of the print.
how about black into White and white into Black ? mine is 1,0 and 180 and i get weird lines
I did a community post that you might find helpful. It was white/black/red
Hi, does anyone know if the flushed material can be used for support material?
There is an option to use the flushed material as support material. wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change under flush options
@@3DPrintStuff Oh, that will work out really well for me, thank you. Great video, I really appreciate the info!
did u not have a prime tower with that?
Yes there was a prime tower for these tests
Get rid of the purge block. It’ll save you a tonne.
It will, but I’ve found that I get a bunch of strings and blobs in my printed part without the purge block. I’m going to start experimenting with reducing the purge tower quantities, but not removing it entirely.
do i need the AMS for these type of print?
Yes he AMS is required for these types of prints.
@@3DPrintStuff thank you. i am thinking to get one x1c, how do u feel about it for a beginner.
@@nazrisemuni224 It’s a great printer for a beginner in my opinion. Bambu labs have done a good job of making the process as painless as they can. You’ll still have some stuff to learn but that’s part of the fun.
I don’t understand why when you “flush into objects” you end up with even more mass wasted! I would like to see this fixed in the software so that the printer knows to spend all of the filament it can in the flush objects. A lot of objects I print are going to get painted anyway, so getting to print multicolor AND reduce waste into other objects would be amazing.
you should of tried the test without the tower too
"Colours are still pretty sharp". No they are not, it's literally grey :-D 0.5 was still fine, below that the colours were not right.
Watching it back you might be on to something. I'll have to pull the test prints out again and take a second look.
Yeah, and next time make sure the 1.0 is not an upside down 0.1, lol
@@bobhuffman7412 Not sure which portion of the video you're referring to. www.youtube.com/@3DPrintStuff/community on my community tab you can see a picture of the test pieces. The 1.0 and 0.1 are pretty clear. Can you provide me with a timestamp of when I mixed them up. I'd prefer not to make the same mistake in the future.
@@3DPrintStuff you're doing a great job, it reminded me of a comedy sketch (Seinfeld?) where a handwritten raffle ticket of 91, could be read as 16, so there could be two winners, lol
what is the order you are printing in (light to dark or whatever) and you math can never work because you are wrong handed :)
www.youtube.com/@3DPrintStuff/community one of my community posts shows that the order goes back and forth. You can see red and black in the white portions of one of these tests. Wrong handed haha I'll work on changing that.
Dude you still printing with glue on the bed 😂
Makes removing prints a breeze. Bambu labs recommends it. To each their own.
Put plastic in ocean
I keep all of my 3D printing scraps with the intention of recycling them into new filament or end use parts.
What about the tower rate?