My Secret to Filament Tuning with Bambu Lab Printers
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2024
- Turn your dream 3D Printing project into a reality at PCBWay:
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Download Orca slicer here:
github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer
Desiccant holders:
www.printables.com/model/6592...
www.printables.com/model/1684...
www.printables.com/model/4237...
Food dehydrator/filament dryer:
www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Count...
Low poly cat:
www.printables.com/model/4999...
Timestamps:
00:00 Intro
00:22 PCBWay Sponsor Spot
01:03 Only covering tuning
01:16 Limit your filaments
03:08 PA tuning
04:10 EM tuning
04:53 Test prints
05:38 Reaction tuning
06:05 Temp towers
07:41 Other thoughts
10:33 Outro - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Great video bro, I couldn't agree more about reacting to the prints IF something is not working. After some time of printing and doing tests, you just get an idea of what a certain print or filament is needing.
Fully loving the content!
10:34 "so maybe that wasn't the answer that some people were expecting"
I swear: There where so much more answers i expected! Your Videos are so full of knowledge and Information, listening to them is pure pleasure.
Your channel is so underrated! Thanx for your work!
Thank you very much for this video... After doing the pressure and flow rate calibrations for my Overture filament, the prints are turning out 100% better. They are so smooth now. I never knew my prints could be this good.... Thank you again!!!
Thank you sir! Just downloaded Orca 1.8. and was trying to figure out the best way to implement the sweet new calibration features on my A1M. This is awesome.
this video helped me tune my p1p to perfection I think what you said about tuning as you print different parts is very important I calibrated to what I thought was perfect based on the calibration. Then printed my own part and it looked terrible but just needed to dial back the PA
Really practically usable advice. Thx
I've been looking for a vid like this. Thanks a lot!
this is a great video!! really actionable, valuable advice. well done. do you ever print multi-filament with the AMS? might be interesting to talk about those settings as well (e.g. to minimise waste, etc.)
I do all the time and I never touch those flushing settings to be honest. I’ll mess around with it and see if I can get a video out of it!
@@ButterPockets nice!! I think there's quite a bit there with setting the right amount to purge and something around the tower vs infill use for the transition. plus, on top of those settings, maybe some best practices when creating the model/ importing it, as well as some materials that go well together and some that don't. I'm sure you might have even more ideas - you've got this! 😎
@@petermarin there’s definitely some good practices to do in CAD and I can cover that for sure. I’ve learned some good ways to export models for color printing that really helps. I’ll add it to my list for sure - I’ve got a couple coming out soon and some sponsorship stuff to handle first. But I really appreciate the idea!
Brilliant Video!! Thx a for for sharing your knowledge
Great video, as always, Mr. Pockets!
😡 get outa here Mrs. Pockets
I finally got some time to watch this…again, THANK YOU.
I’m a furiously and frantically printing full beds, around the clock. I only sleep when I can. I dabbled with stacking and it seemed like too much effort at that time. Each bed takes 8hrs on a stock 0.4 nozzle with the .24 draft profile, in both ASA and PETG. My widget is for fishing and could be in direct sunlight for extended periods. I’m only using bambu filament.
I need to cut those batch times down to be ready for launch this spring. I got a handful of the new modular hotends with cht clones. With Petg’s max volume now set to 27mmc/s with the cht 0.4 I shaved 2hrs off the batch but increased total filament per batch nearly 100g.
I then screwed in the 0.6 cht and my carbon threw a thermal error at about 34mmc/s, but the calibration model looked amazing when it pooped. I’m wondering if I hit the max for the stock heater. I think others have flowed more than 34mmc/s with a carbon so I’m a little confused.
I really am winging it, learning as I go. It seemed to me, max volumetric flow is the speed limiter on carbons. But these new nozzles can change that…which now has me wondering what the next limiter is.
Any guidance or advice for this?
I have absolutely no advice for that haha. 34mm3/s is lot! I’d rather just get a second printer than try and make my one print faster and faster, but that’s just me. Of the prints I sell I don’t hit nearly the volume to need two or print very fast. That’s part of my this is just outside my realm of knowledge.
Watching a print is absolutely the best way to diagnose anything. The X1C is sometimes a bit too fast to see what's going on, but in 99% of the time you can diagnose anything by just looking.
How ? What do you look for ? I'm really trying to figure out my X1C. Sometimes it will make the most outstanding prints. But then other times there are problems like crazy and I can't seem to figure out what is causing what try as I may. I've researched and learned and am up to speed on most of the info out there but it just seems like there are some secrets in there I need to discover.
Thx, great video, again! I used to print a lot with prusament on my mk3, but when I use prusament on my x1c print time is a lot slower due to max.volumetric speed of the generic pla profile, I assume. How do you tune this for your bambulab with prusament?
I set it at 19mm3/s and print at 220C. I’ve had no problems with it keeping up. You can try running a max volumetric flow test in orca slicer or try bumping up 5-10C in hotend temp.
Can you do a video of some common things that go wrong and how you fix them?
Nice storage rack! Thinking of moving my set up to something like that.
Do you have a link or website where you got yours? Looks like that one is all one side beam (not 2 pieces so possibly sturdier)
It’s from Uline. It’s their wide span industrial steel rack.
Thanks for this video! Since the profiles can be linked to Bambu Studio, do you go back to Bambu Studio for all your prints after tuning? Or do you just stay on orca slicer for everything after you tune?
Thanks for the vid. You give some examples of some of the things you look for to "react" to but you weren't very specific. Specifically, is there a set of things you look for on a new print to help you decide on potential adjustments? And when you see these things, what exactly do you do to adjust? Understand you probably can't provide a complete answer but would be interested in better understanding your approach and how you can react successfully. Appreciate any info you can share. Thanks.
I planned on making a more specific video on the future - I just didn’t have many failed prints to really show. I just look to see if a print doesn’t look right in general. The example I showed about layer time is a good one although it’s a short clip. Usually that’s solved by printing more than 1 of the thing at a time or increasing minimum layer times. Things like if your volumetric flow is too high or low you can tell pretty quick in a print when it’s doing quick moves. I check pressure advance too if I can see gapping in a corner as it’s printing I’ll stop the print and lower PA. If I see overhangs aren’t quite coming out right I’ll either drop overhang speed or increase cooling. Things like that. I do plan on making the video but I’ll have to come up with some stuff that someone might set incorrectly and correct it.
Hey butter fantastic video. Do you change any of the PA or EM settings when moving from a 0.4mm to 0.2mm nozzle?
I switched to a 0.2 and clogged it when running the tests! I’m not the best person to answer honestly, but I would assume the numbers are close but that things might need to change. I’d run a print that you know how it should turn out and see how it looks. If corners look weird, the seam looks bad, or the top surface is gross I’d adjust from there!
I am still a relatively new maker but have come around to your train of thought. I used to fuss with benches and temp towers but now I'm doing exactly as you do. flow rate pressure advance by vendor. I am still filling my desiccant with a funnel though.😅 I use the same holders, but guess I should start printing 30 or 40 more containers in ASA as I see the logic and do get tired of picking up beads off the floor on oppsies.
Exactly! I’m glad to hear I’m not the only spilling them everywhere haha
I love all the advice in this one, any chance of a video about the types of things you look for as they are printing and what the correct response to these issues are.
Yeah that’s something I really should make. It’s just hard because I need prints to get messed up first haha. I legit do tune all my printers with the prints you see here. Lately I’ve been printing that dice box like 90% of the time my machines run so it’s been a little boring. I’ll keep that idea in mind and try to do something eventually!
Hey,
have you ever had an issue with dimensions on the X1C?
I received mine two weeks ago and did some printing with it. Works fine so far.
But when it comes to parts which are supposed to be within given dimensions the printer does not perform at all.
I calibrated flow and dynamic flow, which improved on the Z measurement. (it is basicalle spot on now - around 0,05mm off max.)
But the parts are smaller in X and Y than they should be. With X being even smaller than Y.
I tried to use the XY compensation, but this only helps for a given size of part. If the next part is bigger the deviation from the actual measurement is even more off. (Comparing for example an 20x20x20 object to an 100x100x10 object.)
The 20x20x20 part is quite nice at around 19,98 to 20,04mm. Very good in my mind.
But if I print the 100x100x10 object it is 99,88 on one of the sides (meh. acceptable) and 99,73 on the other side. (not acceptable for a machine at this pricepoint)
So the issue seems to scale with the dimension of the part.
Looks like the Steps/mm could be off?
Also another "fun" fact:
If I print my 20x20x20 object with XY compensation to a nice fit, but put a cirular feature on top (18mm diameter outside, 10mm diameter inside, 10mm height) the following happens.
The outside is way off with 17,85 instead of 18mm
The Inside is bang on at 9,96 to 10,03
But the 20x20 is still within a couple of 0,0Xmm
I tried high resolution STEP and STL files, too. No change.
It just seems super sketchy. With my old Anet A8 and Ender 3pro i could reach tolerances of 0,1mm at any given size.
Maybe you have an idea how this issue could be solved?
THANK YOU!!!!
i like to use temp towers to test for mechanical strength (lamination strength). i use pliers and snap off each section, selecting strongest temp, and for ties picking the lower value.
Really nice Video. Well done - Thank you. Just FYI: the blue to pink dessicant contains a carcinogenic (cobalt hexachloride). So you might want to switch that out to another variant that doesn't cause cancer.
These are said to contain less than 0.3% and I’m not eating them. But good tip, might switch anyway.
Great video. I'm very new to the 3D printing "thing" and I'm researching what printer to purchase. The Bambu Lab X1 Carbon seems to be the most reliable but I find it nagging that the print bed is on the small size. I wish if would be 400mm x 400mm x 400mm at least. I am looking for the versatility of being able to produce object with multiple types of filaments as well. Do you have a video that explains how to "cut" prints in separate part for assembly to create objects that are larger than the 256mm x 256mm x 256mm bed size? One of my first intended project would to create an illuminated sign with LED light strips for indoors and outdoors.
Man what a great video and channel!!
How long does it take to regenerate desiccant beads in the dehydrator you recommend, do you run it a max temp? Also share some info on printing with ASA. I have never tried it
It tells you temperature on the desiccant container it came in. Takes about 2-4 hours. Printing ASA can be super easy or tedious depending what printer you have.
@@ButterPocketsbambu X1C
@@ronmcdavid7084 use the textured plate or hot plate and glue. Make sure the door is closed. Use the generic ASA profile and see what happens. A large part of the problem with ASA is getting it to stick to the build plate. I use vision miner nano polymer to help as well.
This is very close to how I do all my tuning. I do a max flowrate calibration first as my "temp" test. I do this to see how fast the filament can print while still getting a glossy outline. And increse temps if I want to get a faster print. Then do a flowrate calibration test with 0 - -3, and finally the PA tuning.
how do you enable bambu lab printer Enable Ai monitoring of printing ??
How do you adjust for layer times and how do you know when its needed?
I’ll eventually cover that in more detail. The quick answer is print more things at once. You know it’s needed if you can see some layers or sections (in Z) are bulging out or look different. Like if you print a benchy and the “hull” is shiny.
@@ButterPocketsI’m looking forward to that content. This is an issue I’m currently trying to understand with the layer time issue. Great videos, keep it up!!
Should I be able to complete all of the calibration with a larger nozzle, or the tests only for 0.4mm nozzles?
For all nozzle sizes! Should run through it all when you change the nozzle too
Great Video men, thanks a lot
The comments on reacting to a print make me feel validated.
I tend to tell folks to do this and they will sometimes scoff. It's good to hear it explained by someone more intelligent than me.
DL orca. Seems great and able to customize much more than Bambu slicer. I followed these steps and everything came out great during the test prints. After adjusting settings I printed an item I print often for my shop and the sparse infill is like supports, they just crumble and won’t finish a print. I reversed all the settings I just adjusted and still same thing. Is there something I need to calibrate with orca first? As a test I printed from Bambu slicer and everything was fine. Any ideas?
@butter pockets - Is the flow ratio and extrusion multiplier the same? Also why do you set it at one?
For some reason, I was able to calibrate every filasment I tried except my roll of bambu PLA. For some reason, it failed on me twice.
Also, even when I calibrated manually, I can't set the K value for the spool
How did it fail?
11:05 Where do these blobs in this "skeleton benchy" come from? Is this due to moisture within the filament? I'm quite new to 3d printing and currently struggeling with a certain filament (PETG) encountering various problems. I've seen such blobs in some of my prints, but they're not consistently all over the object but rather in certain locations of the print.
That particular print I think was due to printing insanely fast. That’s actually ABS and I printed that on a Voron. It was just a little test from a while ago.
Does this method work for TPU and Bambu printers like the P1S or P1P? Does this only when using Orca Slicer or is that functionality in the Bambu Studio version also?
Thanks so much for this helpful video! I have a question I haven't been able to find the answer to (on Reddit):
In my 3D printing setup, I have 3x X1C printers and 3x P1S printers (6 printers total). I'm wondering about calibration when using the same filament brand on all these printers. Is it necessary to calibrate each printer individually, or is it possible to apply the same calibration settings to all of them?
File management becomes a nightmare if I need to save a unique profile for each printer so I'm hoping I can use the same calibration profiles across all of my printers. From my observations, the calibration results seem consistent across the printers. I'm curious for your opinion on this.
Thanks in advance!
I'm curious as to why you changed the fan settings for the prints you showed.
I do that for all PLA. I never use the aux or chamber fan. The aux fan is just too much cooling in my opinion and makes the left side get cooler faster than the right side.
@@ButterPockets thanks, I’ll consider doing that myself. 😁👍
Have you had any luck using Ironing in either Bambu Studio Slicer or Orca Slicer? I'm coming over from using Cura Slicer, and I can get excellent prints with Cura Slicer using Ironing on my Elegoo Neptune 3D printers. However, I have yet to get a consistent smooth print on my Bambu A1 printer with either Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer.
I have calibrated both the filament and flow under the Calibration heading in Bambu Studio Slicer as well as setting up individual filament profiles based on my calibrations. I have also entered in the correct K Factor number for each filament based on the filament calibration. Moreover I have also adjusted my Ironing Speed and Ironing Flow.
By doing all of the above I either get under or over extruded prints. At this point I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I have tried this on the following filaments - Bambu, Polymaker, and Overture. All three yield the same results. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I’ve never really tried ironing! Sorry!
Epic video !
I have to admit, I wish my 3D printer had come with a warning label before I bought it (x1 carbon)... as someone completely new to any of this, it has been an extremely frustrating challenge, burning through a few hundred bucks in supplies trying to figure things out.
But thankfully I found this channel and it's beeen helping. Keep it up!
I’ve been doing this for a while and I still burn though TONS of filament testing new things. It’s all part of it! Just have fun along the way
Does setting the PA Value, in the filament settings.
Override the K/PA Value in the ams settings?
I honestly don’t know the answer to this. When I use Orca I remove the setting in the AMS and set it to like “default” where it doesn’t have a setting.
@@ButterPockets I think mine are all set to 0.02 or whatever it is. The default. Can we just remove it altogether?
It's one of those things that annoys me not knowing if the pa value is overriding the ams setting 😂 so I'll never know if it's correct.
@@tjCooper88 yeah I know what you mean. I talked a lot about using Orca…but honestly I do the manual tuning and plug it all into the AMS/Bambustudio now. It’s been easier. What really killed it for me is Orca wasn’t doing bridging the same way as PS or BS. So I had to switch over. Then orca fixed it but I haven’t really moved back.
@@ButterPockets ah I didn't know about that. Best to set it in both filament and ams then I guess? Just to be safe. I'm using orca still but sometimes flip between the two.
Thank you!
Hi man :D
GREAT video :D
Can you tell me on what temp do you dry filaments in food dehydrator?
Below the glass transition temp. So for PLA like 50C and so on
@@ButterPockets tnx man 💪😎
I wish i didnt have to adjust retractions. Damn kobra 2 loves to string silks. up to 7mm at 80mms to help curb bad stringing. Thanks for the tips! This is some of the basic stuff that us newer people dont know how to approach.
Is the Flow Dynamics Calibration in Bambu Studio using the pattern method just as good as using Orca?
Is it better to do this in Orca then in bambu? I use bambu slicer for regular use.
Well since this video they added Ellis’ tool into Bambu studio. I personally still use Orca but I would always recommend to use what makes the most sense for you!
@@ButterPockets what about calibration, do you prefer one over the other
Great video one comment , i have a few filaments with flow over 1, if i see Pass 2 gives me best result at 0 , i go to Pass 1 and then do the Pass 2. Also found that some times K factor first is not always ideal, So i do flow first to get good flow , then K gives me better results and some times flow again Pass 2 . Also using the tower method for K find it easier and more clear and consistent . by averaging the each corner, But that could be the old eyes and just me . A bit slower but more consistent.
It would be a lot faster that if 0 gives you best results, set your flow ratio from the beginning to 1.1 and then run pass 2. I wish they would just let you pick the steps. The steps in pass 1 are too wide to give you any real information other than if it will be higher or lower than 0.
Thought i was learning my bambu....and now i feel special needs.
Okay buddy
You earned my click with that Southpark reference.
I saw that you have a tuned profile for Prusament PLA Black. Is there a chance to get that profile. I love the Look of the Galaxy Black but on my P1S it comes verry Matt looking. On my old anycubic mega s it looked shiny.
just ordered a ton of bambu matte filaments..for some reason the red is giving me issues..just the red. Small patterns wavy gaps in the print
It could be that the specific roll has a QC issue. I would dry it and then run EM tests on it separately and see if potentially it’s overall thicker or thinner causing the EM to be different. Usually wavy pattern though are a belt issue.
For the same filament, would I need to save a different filament profile every time I switch the hotend (let's say, go from 0.4mm to 0.6mm tip)? What about changing the plate from textured PEI to coolplate?
I set the PA to 0.015 for the filament and also in the printer.cfg But every time I start a print I see Fluidd in the console set PA to 0.044. Why is that?
Is this with an X1? I assume not since you’re using fluidd. Usually if you set it in printer.cfg it should update. I’m not incredibly well versed in klipper/fluidd. I personally use mainsail. Something must be overriding it. Not sure if it’s something in start/end gcode or somewhere else in printer.cfg or if printer.cfg is not saving your changes.
Great advice! Do you always print PLA with aux and chamber fan off? Do you leave your door and roof open?
I do always print it with aux and chamber off. I don’t always take the top glass off though. Even with the top glass on and door closed it’s fine as long as the the chamber temp isn’t over like 34C
@@ButterPockets So if 34C is your max chamber temperature for PLA, what build surface do you use? Do you simply use the Cool Plate with the default 35C
bed temperature? Do you ever use the Textured PEI Plate? If so, do you still use the default 55C temperature on the Textured PEI Plate?
@@joell439 I almost exclusively use the hot plate. Even with 55C bed temp and 220C hotend with the top and door closed the enclosure temp is usually around 30-32. Not too hot.
@@ButterPockets Thank you. 🙏. FWIW I’ve been seeing chamber temperatures in the high 30C’s when the bed temp is 55C. I always keep the door and lid closed and haven’t had any problems.
@@joell439 nice! If it works it works. The only issue could be the filament getting too soft before it melts in the hotend. If it’s not happening then run it!
My PA pattern is just a tiny cube, Ive tried using 1.8 and 1.91
Do you have a video for tuning in bambu slicer???
what does it do when i activate flow calibration on a p1p or s since the dont have that feature?
If I use Orca for my Ender 3 (Klipper), there is no reason your process shouldn't work the same?
Correct. I’d probably do this for any klipper printer.
Hello, I use bambu studio. They only have Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate in their Calibration settings. Should I download Orca just to tune the filament? Can I do all this in Bambu somewhere?
I would run pass 1 first, since you dont know if anything higher than 1.0 flow rate will look better. Pass 2 only shows you 0.91-1.0 flow rate. Also i think the PA tower is best for seeing the exact point that your corbers start looking like crap. I do agree on temp tower though..ive never really got useful info out of it. I just stick to 210-220 for PLA usually. Most PLA also does good with 0.4mm retraction as well so thats my default.
I rarely ever have to go over 1. And if you see that 0 isn’t enough you’d know. Pass 1 only runs large increments, I’d like it if Orca let you choose the range.
@@ButterPockets but you can choose the range with the initial value. I typically start with 1.02 and do the second pass. It seems to me that if you are getting your max or min values then it's time to tweak the scale.
I was always under the impression that you should calculate flow ratio first before PA, does this not actually matter?
It does matter and from the people I’ve talked to you should do PA first. It controls when you extrusion starts when making the passes on the top layer. Controlling that first lets you dial in your extrusion multiplier
Can someone give me a hint about calibrating x/y accuracy on a Bambu P1S? Do you know any videos or tweaks? Thanks in advance!
Hi i'm new in 3D printing world, so sory if my question is so basic, if I use 1 brand of filament but bunch of color, should I tune each roll ? Thank you
Can the PA tuning be done on the textured PEI bed?
Also, all your PA "angles" looked the same lol
Yes, manual tuning can be done on any bed. I think you can clearly see it start to gap around 0.022 and see it start to get rounder. Run the test yourself and see if it’s that way for you!
Can this be done with BL slicer ?
In Orca Slicer where can I save a filament profile like how your showing us in your video ? Can this be done for bambu slicer also? Even though you performing these tests on Orca Slicer.
do you ever change filament setting on the X1C like when you load the AMS?
I’m not 100% positive what you mean. Can you rephrase that?
@ButterPockets I choose the filament type then run the auto calibration so I can set the vendor. But then I change filament properties in filament properties because I cannot set Temps on the AMS :(
@@JBGecko13yt you’re not supposed to. The point of that is so you don’t have to run the auto calibration again. If you have 3 polymaker PLA filaments then when you put polymaker in it automatically has the PA value set for you. Then you control everything else in the slicer settings. It’s a roundabout way to do it, which is why I still prefer the way Orca handles it all in the slicer, but works!
@ButterPockets thanks! I'm still working through my testing methods for filament "I'm new" but I learned a lot from your video. I wish the bambu software did all this also
Print at 8:19
Why does it have those irregular lines?
Thanks for the video! Could you please make a guide to how you can print a model in different filament colors without having an AMS?
Is that a thing?
@@ButterPocketsonly by different layer heights like how hueforge works.
You just add pauses in the slicer to each layer. No video needed lol
@@rp479 well I know at least with a Prusa you can trick it into thinking you have a MMU and do multiple filaments within one layer. I figured that’s what they meant
@@ButterPockets that sounds super tedious lol
@@rp479 I understand it's obvious to you but there is a group of people who don't know how to best do this. For example, I understand I need to change the filament while it's paused, but is there anything else I need to do? Heating? That kinda stuff. It's a good opportunity for a video, I'm sure there are other videos out there on even more obvious stuff.
I dont understand the ellis's tool thing i couldnt find how it was baked in. all i could find was the g code version
I just bought the P1S so now I want to do this to see where my filaments stack up. Would you do the same thing for Silk PLA filaments or do those need to be tuned different?
I would tune silk PLA, matte PLA, and basic PLA separately! They can definitely have different behaviors.
@@ButterPockets Sorry, I guess I meant would you do the same things to tune silk PLA, i.e. the pressure advance pattern followed by EM pass 2?
@@MultiHippie13 yep! That’s what I meant. You could run all these things for silk and they would probably hold for most other silks. Run it for mattes and it would for other mattes. Etc.
@@ButterPockets Awesome, thank you for the advice!
What about part tolerances what are they on your prints with pla, asa, abs, petg etc?
Getting around within 0.1mm is normal and expected
Quick one, on PA calibration, you said "I know that most PLA's are 0.01 etc" for the PA Pattern. But what if you didn't know that? I'm now trying to calibrate an PETG filament, but I don't know what the ranges should be. Therefore should I just go for default? Thanks 🙂
How do you fit tour filament spools in the food dehydrator those trays don't look tall enough to accommodate a roll?
You cut all the trays. It fits 2 rolls
Why can't I turn on the Advanced switch in my filament profiles?
I'm sad that bambo studio doesn't have this calibration stuff... :(
will you provide your filament profiles? Big user of Prusament filament and just got my Bambu X1C and would love to just download and setup for Prusament PLA and Prusament PETG
Unfortunately it doesn’t work like that. Every roll/printer will be different. You’ll find tho that a k value of around 0.02 and an EM of around 0.98 is a good starting point.
I find on cheaper filament, the temp recommendations by the manufacturer are usually very off. Last night I couldn't get a PLA to stop stringing, until I went to 205c which was 5c lower than the sticker temp.
Flow rate pass 1 AND two are REALLY rough?? Dried the pla at 45c for just over 6 hrs. New reel. Any ideas here please?? It's crazy, NONE of the tiles are remotely smooth. X1c
It’s hard to say from just a comment. My email is on my channel page. Feel free to email me and I can try and help more.
@@ButterPockets I replaced the nozzle, which is a few months old. Vast improvement, but not one tile looks like your smooth tile @ 4:30mins in, the top 0 tile.
I must have printed 6 of these tests now and it's drove me nuts. Many thanks for the offer of help! 👌I'm just printing pass 2 to see if I can remotely see a difference, and then I'm off to bed lol. Happy New Year from the UK! Thanks again.
try just once to set the slicing tolerance and deviation to 0.0001 and see the perfect walls on ur plate. takes a tiny bit longer to slice perhaps seconds.
EDIT: Remember to turn off arc :)
Why would you turn off arc fitting?
Maybe its just the camera or becase I'm new to 3D printing but 0.016 or 0.017 looked like the sharpest corner to me.
what does elisis p.a. tool baked in mean?
It’s under the calibration tools in orca slicer now.
Why do you change the settings for the fans?
The chamber fan just annoys me, it doesn’t help to cool anything. The aux fan I find is too much single directional cooling (and it’s annoyingly loud). I don’t really see a difference with it off so I don’t really turn it on. It’s worth playing around with for your prints. If you print something with overhangs tho and they are on the left the fan might not even help!
Thank you so much for the reply!@@ButterPockets
Hi Butter Pockets, please add timestamps to your videos! Thanks for the content :)
Let me do that now!
I did the flow test you showed with Orca and every patch looked exactly the same.
Same, they ALL looked like dogshit...
Did you figure it out?
Do you post these profiles anywhere?
They aren’t really postable. You’d have to just run the calibrations for yourself. It will be different for your filament specifically. Anything else I covered would be print dependent for the most part. I don’t change much in terms of the default slicer profiles honestly.
I assume since the patches are in whole numbers you enter the current flow rate into the calculation as % and not decimal? So 100% flow rather than 1.0 flow?
100 * ( 100 + 5 ) / 100 = NEW as an example where the +5 was the best surface finish and the starting flow was 100% (1.0)
OrcaSlicer uses 1.0 as 100% flow so I'm just double checking.
It would be a decimal. If you chose -5 (I’m assuming instead of +5) you’d enter 0.95. So in reality it is a percent different but you enter the decimal not the percent.
@ButterPockets
This helps for sure. Wish it was explained better in the vid. Im not the best at maths, lol! Great vid though and has really helped me to figure out what I should be doing to set things up.
Also can you go into why exactly you turned off the Aux fan and set seams to rear? Thanks
Anyone ever tell you that you look like Paul Dano? Anyways, thanks for the filament tuning advice! Super helpful.
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Why print the desiccant container in ASA and not PLA?
So I can put the entire desiccant container into my dryer at a higher temperature than PLA can withstand.
I’ve found some filament brands need an extrusion multiplier greater than 1, so in your example you’d be under extruding.
Also, I tune PA last as this is influenced by other things such as flow ratio and temperature.
Extrusion multiplier greater than 1 does happen, but you’d be able to tell from this first test and it’s never happened for me. In my experience you should tune PA first because it influences your extrusion multiplier the more. When it’s laying down that top layer the pressure advance controls when it starts to extrude again as it does the pass. I didn’t come up with that idea though, just what I learned from others like Ellis.
I also don’t really tune temperature.
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Haven't read all the comments, but I'm wondering how many picked up on the South Park reference in your thumbnail. Too damn funny. Great video as always!
You know…I honestly didn’t know that was a south park reference haha
th-cam.com/video/5CVq6DycUOE/w-d-xo.html how do you tune your layer time? what am i supposed to do when seeing this?
also how does that formula work earlier in the video to adjust flow? i only see the patch variable in the old value of the formula. i dont get it
You can change your layer time by going into your filament settings and changing layer times. You can also print multiple parts at one time. The formula is changing your current value by the percent of what patch looks best. So if “-3” looks best you are essentially lowering your current value 3%. So if your current value is .98 and you choose “-3” then you multiply 0.98 by 0.97 to reduce it 3%. I hope that makes sense. The portion of the formula that is “(100+patch)/100” is just a percent change.
@@ButterPockets thank you for the explanation! Can you maybe make a short where you see the effects of layer time and how you see if it needs to increase or decrease? Like a temp tower but with layer time?
Quick question: why didn’t you pick 0.03 for pressure advance? It looked better than all the other ones.
I understand what you mean. .03 looks way different than even 0.029. But the trend that was started didn’t just stop, if anything it’s a fluke. And even still, the corner on 0.03 is WIDE it’s not sharp like at all.
using bambu filament and just auto calibrating it definitely does NOT turn out great results. thank you for this video.