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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ม.ค. 2020
- Ender 3 finally SILENT? Upgrades, More Fan Shrouds and Silent Fans
In this video, I am testing a few more Fan Shroud Upgrades for the Ender 3 and how better Fans can reduce the noise level of this printer even further.
Get the Creality Ender 3 here:
geni.us/ender3
Ender 3 Noise Metering Results for Download
bit.ly/2QQeRyK
🎽 "I Print PLA" fan shirts are available NOW at: bit.ly/crosslinkshop
Read the full blog post here: www.crosslink.io/2020/01/14/e...
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Thingiverse links
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Ender 3 silent mainboard cover (keeping original fan)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:361...
Ender 3 mainboard cover with 60mm fan
www.thingiverse.com/thing:321...
Ender 3 60mm fan upgrade (for extruder)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:348...
Improved Power supply Fan Silencer
www.thingiverse.com/thing:361...
Ender 3 PSU Cover for 60mm, 80mm
www.thingiverse.com/thing:323...
Another Ender 3 PSU Cover for 60mm fan (check your bolt positions)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:343...
Another Ender 3 PSU Cover for a 92mm fan
www.thingiverse.com/thing:294...
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Hardware parts (affiliate links)
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Sunon MagLev 60x15mm fans 12V
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/sunon601512
Blower fans 12V (wire two in serial to make it work with 24V on the Ender 3!)
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/blowerfan
80mm Arctic Silent Fan 12V
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/80mmarticfan
Buck converter
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/bconverter
Ender 3 Silent Mainboard Upgrade 1.1.5
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/ender3silentmainboard
Trotec SL400 Noise Level Meter
🛒 Amazon: geni.us/trotecsl400
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Enter the giveaway for a FREE Ender 3 Silent Mainboard 1.1.5 HERE: crosslink.io/free
You sure you got a real Sunon Maglev fan in there? a lot of fakes about you see. They are so rare you can wear it around your neck like a diamond. You could have gone for KDE2404PFVX.11.MS.B1161.A.X.GN.I21 fan and it would have fitted straight in without the mod, and it would have gave you a higher static of air pressure. Thank you for sharing.
Great video. I actually made a silent PSU fan by fitting a 80mm 12v fan and running it from a 7805 5v regulator. It has been working perfectly for more than 6 months with the added bonus that I was able to conect a 5v led light to the same regulator.
Thanks for the info, great vid. The 80s synth at the end while i browsed the part list was a particular highlight for me :D
Very nice video! Loved the comparisons and the effort you put into to printing all these upgrades. As you alluded to in the video, not all noise is created equal in terms of dBa. Part of the reason better stepper drivers help so much is that the noise created by older stepper drivers is way more composed of "pure tones" which are perceived far louder than the "broad spectrum" noise produced by fans. It is possible to weight the dBa based on the spectrum of noise produced to account for human-noise-perception.
Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.
Great video, well worked and explained. Thank you for sharing
Cool upgrade.
Great test results I appreciate the efforts!
Great you liked it!
With the fang Partscooling duct and two noctua 40mm fans i got my ender 3 pro down to about 38 db, while printing
To help even more, the metal grills in front of the fans I removed and it made a massive difference, I then placed the printed covers over the fans. Yes Better fans help too.
the volume of that outro music compared to your normal talking is pretty drastic. listening to video then get my ears blown off at the end.
Get it, I've started to change that in my newest videos due to the feedback 👍
Yeah that was a spooky outro xD
great and useful videos. i follow you of course. question for you. with this mainboard is it possible to add a touch display and sensor for autoleveling the plate?
I've the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and now it's silent without any particular mods, simply I've used Mini 360 bucks on the stock PSU and mainboard fans that work from 24 to 14v. And opened with a cupsaw the power supply cover to have more air flow.
On the hot end I've used a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm achieved for 21 db. I don't need any other special mods.
Can you please add the phrase "Get to the chopper! Now!" to your videos? I'm just curious.
I love that main board cover, I'm glad there is one already made, saves me some time. But of all the "silent" mods to mine I have done.... I put a C-clamp on the rear upper corner of the Psu. Barely tightened (just so it holds on) . And all the sound from the fan inside stopped. But I like the larger fan idea, so may try that.
Great and simple idea, if that works.
What's a c clamp
Can you explain little more ?
Its a clamp in the shape of the letter c. I clamped the rear upper corner between the clamp parts, which had stopped the rattling noise the fan was making. I've changed out that fan & rigged up a new external setup which cut down the noise without using the clamp. Just Google "c-clamp"
Hey mate, just want to say thank you. Yours is a seriously unique effort. Others do well but I love your end conclusion and the effort to collect data. Do you still recommend the same changes? I'm doing the PSU and mobos now, and copping the dba increase with a hero 6 hotend just because, well, I dont want to sacrifice prints. But again, thanks, genuinely good work.
Hi! very good video as usual. I am going to print some of these updates. Could you please suggest a good filament? which filament is it that one used on the video? I mean the gold one. Thanks
This is so wild.
Its like prusa silent 😃
Keep up the good work
👍
Thanks! How's your Ender 3 doing? Still going strong?
@@Crosslink3D its going on strong.
A real workhorse.
The AM8 build however has gone way over my head. 😄
I have to admit. That the ender 3 has blown me away.
No matter what i throw at it. It just keeps going. 😀
@@Crosslink3D oh. By the way.
Ar you working more on your AM8?
Another great vid
Thanks Gary Toth!
Good stuff! Do you have the new 80mm fan blowing air into the PSU case? Creality originally intended for this to be an exhaust fan, blowing air out of the PSU case. Does it really matter? Thanks!
I found some Sunon 24V fans for cheap that come in 4010 and 4020 varieties so I opted for the 4020, will just need to print a larger shroud to make it fit in the hot end. Apparently the 4020s are decently quiet and it should work at a lower RPM due to being thicker so I'd rather try that. Haven't received them yet so can't vouch for them yet but I'll definitely update on that, I'd really prefer a plug and play replacement
I've only had the e3 for a week now and the fan is way more irritating as I thought especially since I have the silent board
@4:03 No, it's red above then black. Careful !
From the 24V connector, easy to remember, counterclockwise: red/black (24V), red/black(Fan), red/black(Nozzle Heater), red/red(Bed Heater).
Creality MB 1.1.4 and MB 1.1.5.
Try and put rubber washers or tpu printed ones between a fen and a shroud. It helps with a noise and vibrations. I changed the fans with Sunon ones and puted damper feet on my Ender 3. With that upgrades and Silent mainboard, everything is quiet. Cheers!
Great!
Would vibration dampeners make a big difference?
I don't know if there's anything similar for the motors themselves, but I've got silicone fan gaskets in my computer which helped reduce noise a bit.
Since the new blower fan cooling is so much more effective, you could try inserting a 100ohm resistor in series with each fan to lower their rpm. Everything less than full speed on those fans are usually much improvment in sound level.
Great tip!
Adding a resistor decreases the speed of the fan which effects cooling
Anyways we can do that in the slicer itself
@@syedsulaiman8380 was going to say this. Just slow the fan speeds in the slicer. No need for any unnecessary and potential harmful mods.
Hi, I am currently on the mission to get my Ender 3 V2 quieter.
While watching this I was wondering why you did not use a buck converter for the part cooling fans?
Two big blower fans like those are way more capable than the tiny axial fan before, so you could easily tune them down to be quieter, while still providing lots of part cooling performance.
Or couldnt you?
Would like to hear back! :)
I clicked the affiliate link and the "Sunon MagLev 60x15mm fans" are no longer available. Do you have any suggestions for a comparable product that is and available on Amazon?
What was the average decibel rating for the fans you used and how would that compare to using ultra silent fans like the ones made by noctua?
You can lower the fan speed for the dual part cooling fan. Since they are so powerful from what i've heard you can run them at 50% or so and still get normal cooling.
I've did this.. But I guess is about the quality of those 5015 blower fans.. even at 25% of the voltage they're noise, you can hear the bearings on them...
Sounds like its cheaper and easier to just build a cheap casing around the printer. That way you remove the smell too and with some filtering, every the more toxic plastics can be printed fairly safely.
noctua fans helps alot :)
Bit of a summary: You can lose 10db with fan and thingiverse part upgrades for the mobo and psu. The hotend fan upgrades (a new one added for 3 in total) improve cooling but increase db levels.
How do the plastic covers hold up? I have only printed with PLA so far and I worry about replacing metal covers with plastic.
Keep in mind not one motor/fan are identical. So in a perfect work 2 fans in series would be ok but in reality they will differ. 1 will get more voltage and damage overtime, and also hunt speed as it drops and increases per fan. A buck is the best way to go and safer.
did u reduce the 2 blower fans to 50% instead of one at 100%? I am curious about the noise difference...
so if you want silence always go for 120mm haha
many years i used to have an ATX case with small power supply fan... oh man it drove me crazy
i love 120mm
i have found a 120mm fan setup on thingiverse for the PSU and i have tested it, it's nice (i'm running my fan from 12 to 7,5 volt but i've done some tests to have the same airflow than the stock 60mm fan at 24v and it's really quiet)
For the blower fans I connect 2 24v in parallel. When I change the fan speeds to anything under 100% the fans don't spin smoothly and keep wobbling as if they are being provided inconsistent power, like they are being few PWM signals but are not designed to handle them.. Has anyone else experienced this issue or have an idea of what might be wrong or how to fix it?
What psu fan is that with the leds? The one in the links is slightly different
@crosslink do you plan on getting your hands on the ender v2 and checking the noise levels ?
I've pre ordered one already 😁
You should set the 5015 part cooling fans to around 80% in the Cura printer settings. This is still more cooling than the old one provided but much more silent.
I also used two 12V fans in series, but this is aparently a big risk according to many guys on Thingiverse, so I would recommend using one buck converter and connecting both fans in parallel to that. (Since it is a pwm fan, the connection is a tiny bit more complicated, but Thomas Sanladerer has a great video about using 12V parts in a 24V printer)
The switching from the mainboard affects only the ground cable, so you can connect that ground to the fan and a normal ground to the converter. The converter should not get switched on and off.
Actually, I tried the buck converter on the 5015 fans but they don't support PWM. I can imagine, coupling them with a mosfets that controls the buck converters stepped down voltage could work. Will have to try this
Ok, this might be a solution
@@Crosslink3D You just have to connect the fan to the ground/minus from the board which comes directly from the mosfet. The buck converter needs just a 24V and a normal ground as input (either from the board or directly from the PSU) and outputs the 12V for the fan (Calibrate it with a multmeter to 12V first. Since my cheap ones got significantly quieter at 80%, lowering the voltage to 9,5-10V might be a good idea.
I got most of my information from this video:
th-cam.com/video/k9Yy8OxohGI/w-d-xo.html
I did dual 5015 24v fans, and run them at 40%. Sound is barely noticeable.
Moin Meister, hast du normales PLA für den Print des Hot End Coolers benutzt?
I would have liked some information about temperatures. Some of the ducts on the main board case would restrict the airflow.
Well, I am using a much larger fan on the electronics case now with 40mm. No overheating anytime
Hey! The entire video!
Yes, I initially uploaded a truncated version, for whatever reason....
Did you measure the temperature of the inner parts of the PSU after changing the fan? Reducing noise is good but does the fan move enough air to keep the components cool?
Exactly what I was looking for in the comments
I am running it full speed, not much of a difference in noise
@@Crosslink3D sorry didn't get you you told you got a huge difference in noise in the video
Right?????
Psu fan cover looks very restricted and doubt it would give the fan any back pressure to work and render it useless I would get a 12v fan and a buck converter instead
I've cut out all stock fan grills and I think, that made big reduction of noise. Could you check it please?
Maybe with the next printer, this one is done for now. Next is firmware upgrading.
Did the Sunon fans come with leads that could be inserted into a JST? Or just a bare wire lead? Great video btw!
These fans came with wire leads, which I crimped so I would use them with the jst connector
would have been interesting how much the noise of the blower fans would reduce if you change them to say 60% in slicer. as they are a lot stronger than the stock fan that should be no problem imho
I’ve changed them to 80%, still decently loud but better and still blowing super strong 💪
"it looks more cool..." Ba Dum Tschh ! :D
Can you clarify something for me, as you said in the video by adding two 12v part cooling fans you did not have to use a buck converter, would this work with Noctua fans, by using two fans and then overlapping them?
It will work if you connect them in serie (red wire of one fan with black wire of other fan, then remaining wires to the 24vs)
You shouldn't put a 3D printed cover on a power supply. If a capacitor blows it could catch on fire. There's a good reason for using metal covers, they don't burn
6:37 I kinda feel like using hot glue for that makes it really easy to detach and fall off
If the hot glue is really hot and you attach it fast, it won’t come off. Never happened to me
How do you know the PSU is colled enough??
Hey,
I am using CR10S pro but the fan noise is too high
I am planing to put buck converter for all fan to lower the noise without changing any fan or with any 3d print
Don't do it for the parts cooling fan as that is regulated via PWM, buck converter won't work with that
my major gripe is with the motors they are so loud
can you do a TPU flex video set up and print ?? Newbie
Taken it on my list, thanks for the suggestion!
You can also add damer legs for this setup. These ones lower the noise for 3-4db. Not too much, but quite well for 3 hours of time that you need to print them.
thingiverse/thing:2913473
P.S. and better print them with PETG or ABS with 100% infill of course
Why does this guy sound like Arnold Schwarzenegger's younger brother? haha
Love the content though!
Me watching this in a total chaos (just got my Ender 3 Pro and it is soooo loud xD)
In its enclosure, my ender 3 pro makes only 30dB. I will probably buy the silent board and I should barely ear it !
Yeah, can't help but think of all the time and money you could save by just putting an enclosure around your printer. But obviously that doesn't work for everyone.
stock size fluid bearing(much like Noctua only cheaper) fans, silent mainboard from creality/skr/whoever and that alone made mine DEAD SILENT to where its right next to me when running.
These big fans, "silent" board covers, and blower shrouds just dont do much for or make enough of a difference for nothing! mines only 51db, stock it was almost 80DB
I don’t even have a printer and I just came here to check if printer does weird noises
the noise reduced but how about the parts temperature?
Temperature is perfectly fine
This video is so wrong in so many ways I don't even know where to start.
First of all, there are NOCTUA fans in a variety of sizes starting with 40mm up to 140, both normal which are the brown ones and Redux the grey ones. For the cold-end an A4x10 at 12v il perfect for the task even at 260°, for the power supply there is no need for weird useless "ducts" just use a new cover with a Noctua 80mm Redux fan and you'll barely be able to hear it, same goes for the motherboard.
As for the part cooling fan, you can use an A4x20 12v with the Ender 3 ADKS Fan Duct that you can find on Thingiverse.
THIS way the printer will be silent FOR REAL and not "sort of" with crappy LED fans from 2002 or weird contraptions that make no sense
Oh, be nice.
@@TonyBullard there's nothing to be nice about, misinformation is one of the worst things a youtube channel could do. Misleading people towards useless and time-wasting solutions is unforgivable, especially if you claim something like in this video. But I understand that people would do anything for views...
@@TonyNse My power supply produces 24V. How can I use these 12V fans with 24V?
Connect two in seriel
why was the other video made private
Upload problem. Video was starting in the middle.
@@Crosslink3D oh ok that makes sense
👌👍
blower fans sounds alot on graphicscards compared to normal fans, so I would not go for that .
Yes, there is also mods using only normal fans. Probably being more silent.
@@Crosslink3D I actually was surprised by how much the 3d-printer sounds (ender 3). In videos you dont really hear how loud they are in real life :-) So I am thinking of getting a sound-isolated box instead for the printer to stand inside. Like those sound-proof dot-matrix-printer cases that were availble many years ago.
I think we need to start considering water cooling. I was thinking about something cheap...like 4 or 5x the price of the base ender 3, I think anything above 5x the price is no longer socially acceptable. Hold on my therapist is calling me...
Can't you just replace all the fans with noctua fans?
This is another option - however pricey
@@Crosslink3D would be mega if you can do some sort of video on it. I'm keen to be able to run my 3rd printer next to my pc in by bedroom and having building all night long with something to show in the morning but at the moment that is not even poss.
Change all the fans to noctua, maybe add temperature sensors too turn them on only when needed
"we're starting right now". naw, I thought you were gonna have 30 minutes of black before you cut to the chase.
every upgrade video I find focuses on something I could care less about. Noise. I promise you could run a chainsaw in my house and not hear it over my children and grand kids. What I care about is better bridging.
So basically, it's all a waste of time and money. Got it.
This is not a safe modification at all. You replaced metal cover of PSU with flammable plastic one. Then you just hot glued(!!!) buck converter inside the PSU, and then you sticking metal screwdriver inside PSU (!!!!!!!!!!!).
* Hot glue will eventually soften and buck converter will fall onto PSU board causing short and fire.
* You push on screwdriver too hard, it will break off buck converter and you will touch 230V.
* First thing last, you should not modify PSU at all. You should not even open it, if you not certified electrician.