ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- I was trying to see if I can have more quiet printing experience by upgrade the stock fans on my Ender 3.
Noctua 40x20: www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q3CMRW
Noctua 40x10: www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M
Buck Converters: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Noise of Stock: 0:00
Noise After Mainboard Upgrade: 0:34
Noctua Fan Unboxing: 1:00
Buck Converter 2:18
Wiring Diagram 3:30
Using the Buck Converter 3:45
Noise Cooling Fan Replacement 5:41
Noise Cooling + Mainboard Fans Replace 6:20
Noise During Printing 7:46
Closing Remarks 8:05
Notes:
Some things to be aware up when you change fan covers/mounts. Make sure you have enough clearance on the left side so that your hotend unit is properly triggering the X-Stop. Otherwise your printer won't know when to stop. If you are using a BLtouch or other Auto Bed Leveling tool, make sure to re calibrate, like your Z-Offset, after changing up the mount.
Link to the fan cover used in the video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:338...
The model without the BLTouch mount is perfectly fine, but I had issues with the mount version where I had to add spacers to deal with the issue I mentioned in the notes. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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This is great video for an upgrade as this. Having the links for the fans and the link for fan shoud was very convenient. I have the ender 5 pro, the drive me nuts just because I know that there are better fans.
Very nice Video, thank you for the nice explanations!
not too fast and very understandable!
Thanks man. I was looking for this exactly.
This is a really good video. then i saw your subs... you deserve much more!
You definitely have a chance to grow big on TH-cam within the 3d printing community
Great video
Nice content m8. subbed
Thanks, nicely presented. Inspiring me to sort my own.
I realize it's pretty randomly asking but does anybody know a good site to watch new tv shows online?
@Bronson Davion Try flixportal. You can find it on google =)
@Roland Wesley yea, have been using flixportal for since april myself :)
@Roland Wesley thank you, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I really appreciate it!!
@Bronson Davion happy to help xD
One of the best videos for this, thanks a bunch! Also for the buck converter for the mainboard, did you also connect it to the yellow circle at 3:30? So you have both buck converters going into that yellow circle?
No, both circuits are separate since the fans have different ports.
For PSU you really just need to get the biggest fan you can fit and spin it slowly.
Still waiting for that psu fan upgrade🌚
Hi DorkyTim, really enjoyed your video. I notice that other people who install Noctua fans on their Ender 3s end up soldering at some point. Did you have to do any soldering, or was the buck converter and multimeter, and the fan(s), all that was required for fan replacement? Thanks.
Soldering is definitely preferred to ensure things will stay connected, but if you have good shrink wrap then it can hold the connection well enough without solder. I've tested both, with and without solder, and didn't find any problems using either methods. I suggest shrink wrapping even if you decide to solder.
@@dorkytim Great video, by the way. Subscribed. Any link to the shrinkwrap tubes on Amazon, or the heating tool you used? Thanks again!
@@RiqueFresco www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ This is the set of shrink wraps I have, but I did find that even the widest one in the set (10mm) was a tad too snug for these buck converters. It was a little bit of struggle to get them on. If I had to do it over again, I would think about getting ones that were a little bit wider than 10mm. Maybe 12mm would've been nice. I got the heat gun from a hardware store, but any $12-$20 heat gun on amazon will likely do. If you get a heat gun, I recommend one with a stand that lets you prop it facing upwards to be useful in a lot of other applications. However, for this small application, you can also use a candle or lighter to shrink the wrapping as well. Just be careful not to touch the flame directly on the wrap for long.
I ordered a noctua 24v fan for my hotand
How come you are setting the buck converter to 5V for the noctua fans? I thought they were 12V fans and every other video I've watched on this mod has set all buck converters to 12V.
The noctua fans I installed are 5V models. You can see it at the 1:00 mark where I mentioned the different models and voltages rating. Amazon links to the exact fans are also in the description of the video. I would recommend verifying the voltage rating on the fans before installing.
@@dorkytim Thanks, makes sense. I didn't realise there were 5V noctua fans as well. Cheers
Thanks for that Tim. Very well done video. Much appreciated. I want to try the same mods. just two questions: Is the original Input Voltage to both BUCK converters 24 V? Did you do your BUCK converter adjustment off line, or actually connected to the Mainboard ?
Yes, the original voltage was 24v which is what the ender 3 pro uses. However, the main board is also rated for 12V because some older ender 3 models had 12v power supply, so it's important to double check what the voltage coming out of the fan port, I did this offline with my multimeter. For the buck converter, I did supply it with power from a power station offline to make sure the buck converter was functional, and then at 3:45 in this video I connected the buck converter to the mainboard and did the voltage adjustment while connected to the printer.
@@dorkytim So you have to buy a power station that costs more than a quiet Prusa? Why do every youtubers expect that (poor) viewers own expensive engineers equipments?
I'm sorry, I'm not sure I understand where the expensive power station you are referring to is coming from?
@@dorkytim I've seen CHEP doing the same mod. He also measured the buck converter with a offline power station. That doesn't look cheap. I've seen many youtubers doing this mod, but none mention or showing the crucial part; how to tune the converter to 12 v before final mounting.
Oh! You just need a tool that can measure voltages. These multimeters are around $10 and come in many different brands. I would say they are a staple in any tool box for electric work. You could also get a buck converter that has a LED readout built-in for about $1-$3. I wouldn't consider this expensive in comparison to a Prusa which is around $800 give or take.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07VHC1NMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vstwFbSAWXP1E
www.amazon.com/dp/B089N65NMP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MxtwFb3XQ8B7W
I guess there's no way to put the buck converter in the hotend with the fan...?
Not sure if you noticed but normally Marlin is configured so hot end fan starts spinning ing at 50-60 defgrees. With noctua mod and buck converter fan is on from the moment printer is turned on. That's pretty weird - not sure why printer ignores firmware setting for this one
hot end fan has always been running for me. Changing the fan should not change this all.
furthermore, I have a raspberry pi plugged into the USB port. even if the machine is off, this will also power the hot end fan.
i'm wondering if you just didn't notice it until you changed the fan?
What about the heat problem with the buck converter? is it having some temperature issue?
I've ran this printer without issues on a 24 hour print job. Buck convertors are generally pretty efficient and don't have much of a heat problem compared to a voltage divider. If your buck converter is getting too hot then it could be that there is too much current draw, or the parts on the converter are bad/badly assembled. There have been cases of bad parts which are not as efficient as they claim to be and end up releasing more heat then expected. There's also the case fan in the mainboard compartment to help provide some airflow to the buck converters.
Here's a link to a video that gives a practical example of the buck convertor efficiency and temperature compared to a voltage regulator.
th-cam.com/video/giGRrODKJSE/w-d-xo.html
can you please make a video on changing out the fan on the PSU?
That's a great suggestion. I'll consider this strongly.
DorkyTim bump
Noctua fans, 2 versions are available. 1 is pressure biased, the other flow biased. Which did you buy? Have you tried both to compare results?
That's a good point. Thanks for bringing it up. When I was researching Noctua fans, I found that they only mark certain fans in the 120x25mm size as pressure optimized or airflow optimized. There was no such distinction in the 40x20mm or 40x10mm sizes. In the 40x20mm category range, all of them had the same rated metrics except for the differences in voltage and signal.
noctua.at/en/which_fan_is_right_for_me
noctua.at/en/products/fan
*Edited to add links
That's actually quite interesting. I can tell the difference between the two types just by looking at the blades. The swept type blades are pressure biased and the more symmetrical "petal" shape is usually flow biased. You've peeked my interest, more homework. 😀
Just a brain dump but perhaps due to the small size they have went with a compromise somewhere in between. It gets difficult to control air flow the smaller you get and the stator/rotor assembly is probably a more or less standard design reused across several sizes thus limiting options in terms of space. Shape of the "frame" and the blades effect performance. A lot of engineering would probably be required. Perhaps cost vs typical number of units sold lead them to go for a single more middle of the road type of design.
would you recommend this mod? how many DB did it take it down too?
I really like the fan replacements. There's no functional need for it compared to the upgrade of the mainboard, but with the additional of the fan upgrades, it became tolerable to be in the same room as the printer. I was unable to capture a reliable dB check as the printer sound was actually lower than the ambient sound. Only when I was printing and the psu fan kicked in did it register 45db at the max. I did not find the measurements reliable and I doubt I have the right equipment. I did use the raw audio in the video to at least show the relative difference. If you don't care about the sound too much, then this isn't necessary, but if you like things to be quieter, than this is a must upgrade.
i removed the fan on the PSU. It is good for 350w and then i am printing it is using like 80w so passive cooling is enougth
how much power does it draw when the printer's heating?
@@alexvolkers1369 100 -110
Hey, what Filament do you use for the hotend cover? I like the colour.
I use some PLA+ from overture.
@@dorkytim which color is it?
Black
Hi! I can see that the nozzle fan is easy to connect with the buck. But what about the motherboard fan? In my ender 3 v2 I can see the fan with two cables (blue and yellow). The correct connection would be cuting these two cables and intercaling another buck? Could you explain how to do this? Thanks!
The motherboard fan in this setup is 12v, so yes, another buck converter was interlaced between the port and the fan since the fan was not 12v. This is the same process as with the hot end fan. If fan voltage matches the port, than no buck converter is needed.
@@dorkytim Thanks! I bought two 12v new fans and a pack of 5 converters through amazon haha. So If I have understood well: I need a converter for the noozle fan, and another converter for the motherboard fan, and this one I have to cut the two cables (in my case I have a yellow and a blue cable) and put the converter between the connector and the fan. Is it ok? Oh, sorry for bothering you man haha.
Yes, I'd your psu is 24v then slice the two wires and connect the converter between and adjust down to the 12v output.
Don't you have any problems with heat creap? There a a couple of post concerned with the low airflow.
I have not had any issues with heat creep. I understand the concerns, but I've been monitoring this fan setup for quiet awhile and have yet to see signs of an issue.
@@dorkytim Okay thank you! Are you only printing PLA?
The two main types I print with right now are pla and petg.
Can’t you just put two 12 volt fans (one for mainboard and one for hotend) in serial to make 24 volts and connect them both to the hotend fan header?
Technically you can do this, but there are few things to consider. The biggest one is that if one of the fans fail, they both fail. It's safer to have one less point of failure that could cause a fire hazard. Secondly, even if you get the same fan, no two fans are perfectly identical. The slight variation will always put one fan under or over. It's hard to say how much of an impact this will have over the lifetime of the project, but most sources would recommend against doing this setup. I would recommend some thorough testing before leaving things unattended over night. With that said, I don't think the level of effort gap is large enough to consider putting the fans in series as oppose to using buck converters.
DorkyTim thanks for the reply! I did not consider those possible problems, i will just use buck converters
Is 4020 noctua fan is enough to cool down hotend? Some people who use it on some fan ducts say there are some problems, however I feel that the reason is using fan ducts that make everything hoter (more parts, additional blowing fans etc.). Do you have any problems with that setup? - 4020 + this custom housing?
I've been using it for a couple of years now and have not had a problem.
I have a noctua 40x20 for nozzle cooling, keeps it the right temp. So they are wrong, because I mean that's it's only job. To keep it that temp. Sure it fluctuates a little but it did that with stock fan too and doesn't affect my prints. As for print cooling, that's where I thought it might be lacking. So I got a splitter that goes on top of my briss fang, and mounted 2 of them up there lol. Works great, better than stock.
Do you had a problem with the A4X10 Noctua Fan as mainboard cooling in long prints ? Because the Airflow is less than the stock one.
No issues with main board cooling using the noctua. It doesn't take a lot of airflow to keep main boards cool.
@@dorkytim thanks sir i will install it 👍
Do u guys know if a 40x20 will fit in there?
I've seen some comments, that people burn they motherboard by powering buck from it. It's safer to power it straight from 24V, since it running continuously
I agree, if you can avoid adding things to the circuit and keep it at 24v then that should be the first option. I don't think there's anything wrong with using a buck converter though. Just check your circuit and be careful.
Yes, its defenately a thing. I did burn it too, however i dont understad why is it a problem to add a buck converter to the motherboard (as iam not good at electronics and i just wanted to follow step-by-step tutorials)...
I think these people are using maybe some bad buck converters or something. The role of the buck converter is to change the voltage. That should have no affect on the main board. The power is leaving the main board and buck converter is lessening it. So if it's "burning it out" in some way, that's usually an indication of too much voltage, which means the buck converters at some point aren't doing their job correctly. I have 2 on mine for a couple of years now, never an issue.
where do you put buck converter for main board if you get one of those kind of big ones with the digital numbers or w/e?
I'm not sure, if it's too big to fit inside, then it'll have to hang outside somehow. Though converters are pretty cheap, so if possible, getting one that fits inside would be preferred.
@@dorkytim The ones I had were too big, so I just printed little boxes for them and mounted all along left side of printer. Looks pretty good. I think the little ones may have fit but I had some I ordered like a year ago so had to work with what I had lol but it turned out ok, and I didn't need one for the psu as expected so they all fit over there.
That's great that you were able to solve it with printing!
same instruction for the ender 3 v2?
Yes, it should be the same.
isn't the hotend and mainboard fan the same 4010 fan?
Yes, the stock hotend fan and the mainboard case fan is 40x10mm. I went with the 40x20mm hotend fan here because the Noctua 40x10mm fan produces less airflow than the stock fans, so the extra thickness of the 40x20 is to compensate for that while having great sound reduction. You could get away with using the 40x10, but I haven't tested it, so I can't say how the lesser airflow will affect the hotend cooling. My guess would be an increase in risk of heat creeping up the hotend which makes your filament flow rate higher than expected.
Why you use 5V noctua intead of 12V noctua ?
It's just what I had available. The 12v and the 5v have the same rating for airflow, so I could've used either.
7:30 PSU Meanwell fan replacement, (I fitted two same size fans now)
th-cam.com/video/0oR2q03hFhw/w-d-xo.html
Link for the housing??? Pls
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3383198 This is the design I used in the video. The normal one is fine, but I found some problems with the version with the attached BLTouch Mount. If you print the one with the bltouch mount, you'll find that it's slightly too wide to the left and causes the hotend to not trigger the X stop switch, which can damage your printer. I had to add spacers to lift the fan cover so that the X stop could trigger. You also have to search for a BLtouch bracket that is compatible with the mount, so it might be better to just print the fan cover without the bltouch mount and use a different bltouch connector separately. Designs that have the fans mounted on the outside of the covers should also fit the 40x20 fans as well.
This might be a stupid question but can you explain how you converted it from 3 pin to 2 pin?
Only 2 pins are needed to run the fan, the 3rd pin is used for rpm speed signal and is not needed.
What Gcode do you use to get a notification beep once the print is finished?
Look it up 😂
M300 [P] [S]
Parameters
[P]
Duration (1s)
[S]
Frequency (260Hz)
M300 S440 P200
M300 S660 P250
M300 S880 P300
Exemple
@@hexidev Thank you!
what about using 2 12V fans in series? you should get a high flow with that and no need for the buck converter..
It will work, but I would not recommend running fans in series, and it's a bit excessive for the hotend. If performance was the goal, then the stock fan is good enough. The goal here was to reduce noise and extra fans would add more variables for noise. You would also need a proper mount that would best make use of two fans. Also, fans in series would divide the voltage, but the fan closes to ground would take on the higher potential drop than the fan behind it. That and the fact that there will be very small differences between the two fans because their resistance would never be perfectly equal. These factors mean that one fan would always wear down faster than the other fan. If you are going to go through the effort of adding another fan, it doesn't really reduce the effort of adding a buck converter in the first place and has extra cost.
@@dorkytim thank you very much for your explanation... Very clear!! Greetings from italy
@@dorkytim aaaaaaand, what about powering a 12 V noctua fan and a 12V led strip in series? that way i would have the tension for my ledstrip too.. would be very useful for me.. would it work?
Some boards actually come with a port that can be programed specifically for addressable RGB, which I think is pretty cool. In regards to 12v LEDs, again it would be possible, but you're also adding another point of failure in the circuit. If the led lights break then your fan stops working too, and the fan is more crucial than the LEDs. I would hate for a long print to fail because a perfectly good fan stopped working because of led lights. It can also be hazardous if the hot end fan stops running.
@@dorkytim thank you very much!! Does the ender 3 pro also have this rgb port?
use the hero me gen 5 its a great upgrade to any printer
I've played around with the hero gen fan mount, but wasn't able to get much difference in my prints. I might try again in the future
Me at 6:35: ..... wait, did he already turn it on?
anyone know if you can fit a 40x20 for main board fan?
It probably won't fit.
@@dorkytim that's what she said :D
@@dorkytim by the way, where do you put the buck converter for the main board fan?
It's taped to the inside of the cover.
Are you sure that this fan makes enough airflow to cool hotend ptfe tube?
Yes, this works just fine. I've haven't had any issues with this setup and the quality of prints have not been affected. There have been no issues with filament creep in the hotend while printing with PLA and PETG regularly.
you set the voltage for the hotend fan to 5v?!
dont do this! you WILL get heat creep in longer prints.
I believe you are misunderstanding something. I am not simply undervolting the fan. The fan I am using for the hotend is one that is specifically rated for 5v and thus needs to be at 5v for its intended performance.
why is called butt converter??
BUCK !!
A buck converter or step down converter is called so cause "bucking" is the action or knocking/jumping something violently up or down, so in this case it bucks down or up the voltage to a specific level.
This seems like a very very bad idea. Those fans DO NOT push enough air to keep the hot end cool. This is going to lead to heat creep and regular clogging of your hot end and nozzle as well as inconsistent extruding. Why do I see this everywhere? These fans were not build for this and just because they're quiet doesn't mean they're good
Thanks for bringing up valid concerns and fair points. I can only speak for my own experience and I have never had any issues with heat creep or clogging in the two years of usage with this fan. I have gone through a few 24+ hours print jobs as well. I would recommend anyone attempting these mods should do so with caution and use their own discretion.
I'm using a Noctua on an e3d v6 without any problem. It's a production printer that runs15-24 hours at a time. I keep it running as much as possible. I haven't had any heat creep since switching to that fan.