Brilliant, neat and professional. Thanks for sharing. One tip: when shortening stepper motor etc cables.... always leave some room for error or future changes.
For those wanting to make an MPCNC, I have saved many hours by not printing all the corner joiners and leg ends. I've done similar to box in the cnc. I love what you have done with putting the plugs at the top of each stepper. I've also gone down the path of shielded wires.
FYI, 1st version of the MPCNC I used PLA for all (as you show). They nearly all failed with 6-9 months. All cracked or fractured. And they all have been replaced with PETG and ABS parts (zero failures). Hope you have different results.
I had followed the recommended guideline as posted here. www.v1engineering.com/blog/parts/ Now cranted, some of these parts were on their 1st revisions and some have been re-designed. However, the only original PLA parts I have now are the feet.
I think that a router like that is great as a stepping stone to make the aluminium parts for a better router, so the plastic reliability isn't that big of a deal.
Very nice build! The one thing I would be careful about is the hot glue on the motors. My motors tend to get very hot under load, and I wouldn't be surprised if it softened the glue. Otherwise an excellent build! Belt tensioners are quite clever
At first I thought BraunCNC was going overboard with this but I followed V1 engineerings directions and learned the hard way that if you want any mechanical reliability, it is better follow BraunCNC's methods. Of course with permission from BraunCNC.
As I am old retired and poor could I use one of your designs for a manually controlled Mill to hog out old parts for upgrades. I have a router and 3D printer. Seems this could work in I make handles and round gauge markers for distance??? Dennis
Really love your mods. I watched a video some time back (sorry, don't have link) demonstrating a high-speed linear actuator using this dual belt system. I tucked the idea away for future use. You have proved it is a really viable system. Thanks very much, looking forward to more videos. Liked & subscribed.
The work area of my MPCNC is roughly 600x300x50mm. Especially a big z height will decrease its rigidity. If you want a big machine, check out the Lowrider CNC.
You made a rack gear by gluing the GT belt to the square tube, to minimize belt strech problem further - use direct drive stepper with GT gear/pully direct on rack Need more modifications on the original design but may be worth the time/effort.
Very good job and very good idea with the improvements. Can you please tell me how you ground the GX12 cable to GND? Do you use a Copper / Aluminum conductive adhesive tape around the shielding of the cable to connect the shielding to the metallic GX12 connector? Or do you unwind the shielding and solder it to one of the GX pins and then connect it to the GND. If a GX16-5 PIN is used, one of the PINs can be connected to the shielding of the cables. Thank you for your video and for your time.
Thanks. I unwound the shielding and clamped it in the strain relief between the cable and the housing of the connector which is connected to the grounded control cabinet.
I like your corner caps! I'm going to seek them out and replace mine. So much sleeker looking. Your entire build is top notch my friend, as is your video. You got yourself a new sub and smash of the bell button.
I'd be weary of hot gluing to a stepper motor. -- I did it on my first 3D printer... -- The motors won't get hot enough to melt the glue outright, but you may find over time that it has slowly "flowed" -- especially after many hours of continuous operation. -- It may flow into the plastic connection housing, making it so you can't disconnect them anyway -- or it may flow into other parts where the glue could cause damage once it cools down. -- In my case the glue just flowed down on to an adjacent circuit board that I had soldered up myself, so, it didn't hurt anything, but I was really surprised by it.
i have the jokari wire strippers and they don't work very well on small wires. do you know of a better automatic wire stripper for small wires? (especially at a short length such as when you were stripping the NEMA motor's wires)
If they get hot something obviously wrong.... mine are always cool even for my 3d printer when it was running for 12hrs a day to print parts for the mpcnc. the motors for that are always cool too. you cant really drive it super fast when milling either.
Most steppers are rated to a very high temperature. They can very well get to 70°C and higher under continous heavy load. The gantry of a CNC is much heavier and the material beeing milled also adds up to the load, you really can't compare that with a 3D printer. I agree that if they get that hot, there is probabbly an operating mistake, but it's one a beginner is likely to make: a bit too much Z increment, a little too high feed rate, unfamiliar material... You might end up with a heavier load that the machine could handle otherwise. Also that's not a problem you'd notice right away, the heat would slowly creep up. Better safe than sorry I'd say, a bit of epoxy or silicon would be a better choice
I do agree epoxy would be better. I just spent about 3-4 hours milling a pine 2x4 which my mpcnc seems to hate and the motors are still room temp. tight grain hard wood actually cuts easier than pine. when it gets into the darker portions of pine it chatters and vibrates. sometime its enough to grab or throw the spindle out of position ruining your work. Id say its more of a bad stepper driver issue than anything else that would heat them up. like setting the driver amps too high for the stepper. the driver will definitely heat up and the over current to the stepper will cause it to do the same. I have 2A steppers with the drivers set to run at 80% of that. besides the MPCNC isn't really a good CNC platform i found a more traditional style cnc with 3d printed parts on YT that looks much more stable than this one. I'm considering rebuilding it and/or the newer one i found. its on Leon van den Beukel channel "Homemade CNC with 3D printed parts". check it out if you'd like.
Super Mod, baue auch gerade Deine Variante. Hab aber Schwierigkeiten die 15mm T16 Pullys zu bekommen, auch der Riemen ist schwer zu finden. Ebay und Amazon hab ich durch, bei aliexpress hat es nicht geklappt. Die China Bestellung ist nach 6 Wochen immer noch nicht angekommen. Wo kann ich denn sonst die Pullys und den Riemen bekommen ?
Außer Aliexpress habe ich bisher keine andere Bezugsquelle gefunden. Alternativ würden sich auch 9mm Riemen anbieten, diese sind auch ausreichend stark.
I wonder if your belt drive mod would make a better type of cartesian 3D printer. The ghosting artefacts from a heavy bed on a stretchy Y belt would be reduced.
your editing is top notch. But it sounds like your talking with a sleeping child right next to you. wispier quiet and sometimes unclear. try talking with more authority. good idea with the stepper connectors. i just took mine apart and rewired them with shielded cable. unnecessary to be shielded but it was cheap. I needed longer wires and didn't want to splice them.
This could be a cool 3d printer design too. just add some vertical supports and switch the motor location for the z axis. Where are the build files and all the firmware? I want to make one but modify it into a 3d printer.
Hi, nice work there. Question, on 2:16 you show the Roller, but the head of the screw looks "changed", did you do anything to it? If I use the normal M8 screws I think the 3mm steel would not fit through, right? Thanks
You gave me quite some headache till I found in the comments that you had made the whole a bit tighter for the screw to fit. ;-) However, I am not sure if I like this, so I am trying to redesign your model with a pocket for the screw-head. I hope this works too and will not break all the way. If you like, I can share the outcome with you.
It is mesmerizing to watch your build.. Is there any chance of designing 3d printer out of square aluminium tubes or pipes in future ... It could be great as it seems to available easy and cheap compared to aluminium profiles.... Once again thank you for your amazing video
Thanks a lot! The MPCNC is fully customizable, so you can make it to whatever size you want for your 3d printer and just add an extruder and hotend instead of a spindle.
Awesome! Great stuff and awesome work! I just started printing and hope to get similar good results as you did. Hope to see more from you! (especially working with Aluminium on the MPCNC) Mach bitte weiter so! :)
Was wondering the size you made your MPCNC? And why? Looks like it is roughly 3 x 2 feet? Was wondering how high you made it? Thx and great video! Keep up the great work!
Does it have any text on the cable. I found a local store but the wires seem to thin. I don't think they will hold the current necessary for the motors. This one has wires with 0.22mm and is rated for very low current. It has the text 4 x 0.22.
Mine are 2x2x0,25mm². I have 2A stepper motors and the original cables were 0,20mm². Also keep in mind that these 2A are a maximum rating. While the motors turn, the current from the driver (with microstepping) looks like a sine wave, so the rms value is roughly 1,4A. Thicker cables definitely won’t make things worse, but I think 0,22mm² should be enough.
I bought 22 awg cables, which translate into 0.327mm wires, for this purpose, but they are not shielded. I'll try them out first. If there aren't any issues, I'll keep that configuration. Otherwise, I'll search more in depth for shielded one. Thanks
Could you share some info on 15mm belts? Are those GT2? I did something similar on my first CNC but I used HTD5 polyurethane with steel cords. If you don’t mind, were have you purchased 15mm belts and pulleys? Thanks.
I dislike ABS for a lot of reasons but rigidity isn't one of them while I absolutely love PETG but at 100% infill you can still bend it. For me 100% infill ABS would be the way to go but I have never managed to get ABS to behave for me no matter if an enclosed printer or not.
@EL Valenin I was so hyper for ASA when it first came out and the hype it had until I found out that if you can't print with ABS then do not even think about ASA.
Hey, ich bin gerade dabei eine mpcnc zu planen und möchte so viele Verbesserunge wie möglich einbauen. Dein System mit dem 15mm Gt2 gefällt mir sehr gut. Leider bekomme ich diesen schlecht. Habe nur 1x erfolgreich gefunden bei Aliexpress. Wie viele Zähne haben deine Pullies?
Looks great and you have great design skills and video editing skills. But maybe consider linear bearings (12mm) for all axis movements this would ease the design and reduce the part number.
I love this design, but I cant find the files for 23.5mm conduit, Im in the US and the only thing I can find locally is EMT generic conduit at HomeDepot which is 23.5mm
What are the dimensions of the largest printed piece? Am considering buying a 3D printer and would like to know if the ones in my price range are capable of printing the parts.
Es wäre sehr nett wenn sie noch vermerken würden das die einzelne Schraube bei den Rollern anderst montiert wird als es in der Originalanleitung ist. Habe nich darüber nachgedacht und die Löcher 4x einfach auf 8mm erweitert :D Wundere mich die ganze zeit weshalb der "mist" nicht passt aber jetzt ist es klar.
Tolles Projekt! Wenn du die Fräse nochmals bauen würdest, welche Maße würdest du verwenden? Ich hab gesehen, dass du auch Stahl probiert hast und möchte bei meinem bau die ideale Größe haben. Vielen Dank :)
Bei der Größe kommt es darauf an, wofür du die Fräse brauchst. Wenn du noch nicht genau weißt, was du alles fräsen willst, bist du mit 600x300x40mm (meine Größe) ganz gut aufgestellt.
Brauns CNC vielen Dank für die Info! Ich wollte ursprünglich 530x530x100mm nehmen, da sich das perfekt mit 6m Edelstahl ausgeht. Zwei Fragen hätte ich trotzdem noch: Hast du bei deinen 600mm kein Problem mit der Stabilität, da dies doch lang ist? Wie passt dir die 40mm Z Achse? Ist das nicht zu kurz?
Bisher hatte ich noch keine Probleme mit den 600mm. Bei den 40mm habe ich an meinen maximalen z-Verfahrweg gedacht. Also die eigentliche z-Höhe ist schon mehr, aber trotzdem minimal (an den Ecken liegen die oberen und unteren Plastikteile direkt aufeinander auf)
amazing friend. will you have the files of those parts to be able to print them? It would be great to be able to follow your steps, greetings from Argentina
For the original parts check out www.v1engineering.com/ . My modifications can be found here: www.thingiverse.com/BraunsCNC/collections/mpcnc-modifications
HI erstmal: ein super schöner Build! Wo bekomm ich die 15mm Pulleys? Wieviel Zähne hat dein GT2 pully ? Welche Motoren (Drehmoment?) hast Du genommen?hast Du da ne Quelle? welche Elektronik benutzt du?
Danke. Die Pulleys haben 20 Zähne und kommen von Aliexpress, die Schrittmotoren haben 59Ncm und sind von Stepperonline. Elektronik ist ein Arduino Mega mit RAMPS Board.
Congratulations, beautiful video and design. Which map do you use to manage your motors. I am french and I can not find a good tutorial on the electronic part
Bin grad hier drüber gestolpert, wenn mein corexy Zusammenbau läuft is die cnc dran. Die breiteren belts sind ein Muss! Isn richtig netter Ansatz den du da hast mit den gekonterten Riemen. Haste im Betrieb keine Probleme damit, dass du dir dazwischen Späne sammelst? Wär blöd, wenn die durch den Druck der Umlenkrolle aufbauen und die Zahnscheibe nicht mehr greift. Der Heißkleber hält auf den warmen Motoren? Gruß t3cker
Da die Riemen meistens aufeinander liegen kommen da kaum Späne rein. Wobei man trotzdem ab und zu nachschauen und säubern sollte. Die Motoren werden höchstens handwarm, bisher macht der Heißkleber keine Probleme.
2:11 What name do I get that bar with pins? What gear did you buy to use it with that belt and that engine? Do you have any link on aliexpress to buy it? thank you
Will you update the bill of material on your website to match the updated version of the MPCNC? BTW you are great and the idea of a printed CNC is so nice and affordable. I love it. THANK you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Just to clarify: I am neither the inventor of the MPCNC nor a part of its official development. However you can find my custom parts on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101774
Braun, thanks for sharing your thoughts on this video. I noticed you are using a double-belt design. In the USA, this design has a patent pending by Bell-Evermann. Of course, hobbyists may construct the design for themselves but not for sale. The reduced exposed belt length makes a huge difference in rigidity. There is also another similar design that might interest you. The upper belt can be a small continuous belt that is double-sided. The inside teeth wrap around the motor and pulleys, and the outer teeth mesh with the lower belt. Nice video!
There is NO 'patent pending' on this design. The patent application by Bell-Everman (US20090301237, filed in 2008) was rejected and subsequently abandoned because the idea was not new. Already in 1979 German company Hamuel Werkzeugfabrik described this idea in their patent application DE2910373 which has lapsed long ago. It was also disclosed in e.g. DE3935690 (1989), JPH08121558 (1994), JP2000229717 (1999) and many more.
nice idea using that upside down belt , does make it harder to square that machine (as to cant tension the belt one way or the other ) unless you halfstep the motors or put a tensioner on each side of the motor might be usefull to slot the angle iron so you can move it and the gleud on belt slightly to compensate for out of square the steppermotors can get pretty hot so you might want to add a tiewrap or two to hold the plug on top of the motor
Thanks for the comment. I am going to add dual endstops, so one endstop for each side. After these have been carefully adjusted the motors will drag the machine into being square. I haven’t shown it directly, but I added a tie wrap to the motors (you can see it in the last picture). However if the hot glue melts I am going to have another problem, as the motor mount is printed in PLA which will soften way before that point. Therefore I have to keep the motors cool, either by lowering the current or by adding additional heatsinks.
Brauns, this is great stuff. The belt technique is amazing. Where can I find that old MPCNC file with the flat top corners? The vicious1 website offers only the latest design.
Love German engineering, people who share their knowledge to help others and people who speak a second language. Very appreciated.
Double belt... genius. Pure genius. I'm totally going to steal this idea!
IKR
Brilliant, neat and professional. Thanks for sharing. One tip: when shortening stepper motor etc cables.... always leave some room for error or future changes.
The dual belt system is pretty smart. Thanks for sharing it.
For those wanting to make an MPCNC, I have saved many hours by not printing all the corner joiners and leg ends.
I've done similar to box in the cnc.
I love what you have done with putting the plugs at the top of each stepper. I've also gone down the path of shielded wires.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2754792
FYI, 1st version of the MPCNC I used PLA for all (as you show). They nearly all failed with 6-9 months. All cracked or fractured. And they all have been replaced with PETG and ABS parts (zero failures). Hope you have different results.
What % of infill did you use, or do these parts get printed solid?
mine haven't failed yet and im going on 4months. i cant print with abs its too difficult.
I had followed the recommended guideline as posted here. www.v1engineering.com/blog/parts/ Now cranted, some of these parts were on their 1st revisions and some have been re-designed. However, the only original PLA parts I have now are the feet.
I think that a router like that is great as a stepping stone to make the aluminium parts for a better router, so the plastic reliability isn't that big of a deal.
@@darkshadowsx5949 try the PETG from ''das filament'', it's much easier to print :)
Dat Moment wenn man nach 2 Wörtern die Hand dafür ins Feuer legen würde, dass der Uploader Deutscher ist.
Deglisch
Jeder braucht halt so seine Erfolgsmomente.
ICh finde man versteht ihn gut. Hab schon schlimmeres Denglisch gehört. IMmerhin korrekte Grammatik und rel. flüssig, was will man mehr?
Ein Deutscher würde niemals die Kabel eines neuen Schrittmotors auf 2cm abschneiden nur um einen hübschen Stecker an diesem festzukleben.
Warum nicht? Macht doch Sinn das steckbar zu machen. ICh würde nur keinen Heißkleber nehmen sondern Epoxy das wird nicht weich.
Very nice build! The one thing I would be careful about is the hot glue on the motors. My motors tend to get very hot under load, and I wouldn't be surprised if it softened the glue. Otherwise an excellent build! Belt tensioners are quite clever
At first I thought BraunCNC was going overboard with this but I followed V1 engineerings directions and learned the hard way that if you want any mechanical reliability, it is better follow BraunCNC's methods. Of course with permission from BraunCNC.
Those cam belt adjusters are a fantastic addition!
can you post the stl files and a written guide for the modifications? some of the parts were hard to follow, but great video overall!
Thanks
As I am old retired and poor could I use one of your designs for a manually controlled Mill to hog out old parts for upgrades. I have a router and 3D printer. Seems this could work in I make handles and round gauge markers for distance??? Dennis
Wondering if I can use electrical conduit tubes instead of stainless steel tubes as I have tons of it
Really love your mods. I watched a video some time back (sorry, don't have link) demonstrating a high-speed linear actuator using this dual belt system. I tucked the idea away for future use. You have proved it is a really viable system. Thanks very much, looking forward to more videos. Liked & subscribed.
Great video, love the detail of the double belt and the wiring, so clean!
Very original and excellent solution for the belt.
Gute Idee mit dem breitem Riemen und dem Exzenter. 👍🏻
Can the MPCNC work properly with a 30" (800mm) work area and 5" on Z height? Always hard to tell how large these machine are in the videos.
The work area of my MPCNC is roughly 600x300x50mm. Especially a big z height will decrease its rigidity. If you want a big machine, check out the Lowrider CNC.
Wow, man! This is definitely the most professional and sexy looking CNC I've seen so far!
Great idea with the belts.
Which Controller are you using. I am looking to have 5 drivers, one for each motor. Could not find any so far.
@5:14 what is that wire connector crimping tool called? I do it with another kind but it takes me so long to do each one.
You made a rack gear by gluing the GT belt to the square tube, to minimize belt strech problem further - use direct drive
stepper with GT gear/pully direct on rack
Need more modifications on the original design but may be worth the time/effort.
guy you are fucking nuts, these are some golden videos you got there
Very good job and very good idea with the improvements. Can you please tell me how you ground the GX12 cable to GND? Do you use a Copper / Aluminum conductive adhesive tape around the shielding of the cable to connect the shielding to the metallic GX12 connector? Or do you unwind the shielding and solder it to one of the GX pins and then connect it to the GND. If a GX16-5 PIN is used, one of the PINs can be connected to the shielding of the cables. Thank you for your video and for your time.
Thanks. I unwound the shielding and clamped it in the strain relief between the cable and the housing of the connector which is connected to the grounded control cabinet.
I like your corner caps! I'm going to seek them out and replace mine. So much sleeker looking. Your entire build is top notch my friend, as is your video. You got yourself a new sub and smash of the bell button.
Excellent built and techniques.
You could use a loop belt attached to the stepper using this approach, I like it!
I'd be weary of hot gluing to a stepper motor. -- I did it on my first 3D printer... -- The motors won't get hot enough to melt the glue outright, but you may find over time that it has slowly "flowed" -- especially after many hours of continuous operation. -- It may flow into the plastic connection housing, making it so you can't disconnect them anyway -- or it may flow into other parts where the glue could cause damage once it cools down. -- In my case the glue just flowed down on to an adjacent circuit board that I had soldered up myself, so, it didn't hurt anything, but I was really surprised by it.
I guess in your case, you did not use much glue, and it's on the top side of the motor, so, maybe it will be fine. -- But I'd still advise against it.
Interesting. I am going to keep an eye on that glue, thanks.
i have the jokari wire strippers and they don't work very well on small wires. do you know of a better automatic wire stripper for small wires? (especially at a short length such as when you were stripping the NEMA motor's wires)
...Step motors is hoted for longer woork. And glued conectos will be droped...
"hoted" ?
The stepper motors might get hot and could melt the hot-glue
If they get hot something obviously wrong.... mine are always cool even for my 3d printer when it was running for 12hrs a day to print parts for the mpcnc. the motors for that are always cool too. you cant really drive it super fast when milling either.
Most steppers are rated to a very high temperature. They can very well get to 70°C and higher under continous heavy load. The gantry of a CNC is much heavier and the material beeing milled also adds up to the load, you really can't compare that with a 3D printer. I agree that if they get that hot, there is probabbly an operating mistake, but it's one a beginner is likely to make: a bit too much Z increment, a little too high feed rate, unfamiliar material... You might end up with a heavier load that the machine could handle otherwise. Also that's not a problem you'd notice right away, the heat would slowly creep up.
Better safe than sorry I'd say, a bit of epoxy or silicon would be a better choice
I do agree epoxy would be better. I just spent about 3-4 hours milling a pine 2x4 which my mpcnc seems to hate and the motors are still room temp.
tight grain hard wood actually cuts easier than pine. when it gets into the darker portions of pine it chatters and vibrates. sometime its enough to grab or throw the spindle out of position ruining your work.
Id say its more of a bad stepper driver issue than anything else that would heat them up. like setting the driver amps too high for the stepper. the driver will definitely heat up and the over current to the stepper will cause it to do the same. I have 2A steppers with the drivers set to run at 80% of that.
besides the MPCNC isn't really a good CNC platform i found a more traditional style cnc with 3d printed parts on YT that looks much more stable than this one.
I'm considering rebuilding it and/or the newer one i found. its on Leon van den Beukel channel "Homemade CNC with 3D printed parts". check it out if you'd like.
Wow very impressive The quality of your product is Very good.
Super Mod, baue auch gerade Deine Variante. Hab aber Schwierigkeiten die 15mm T16 Pullys zu bekommen, auch der Riemen ist schwer zu finden. Ebay und Amazon hab ich durch, bei aliexpress hat es nicht geklappt. Die China Bestellung ist nach 6 Wochen immer noch nicht angekommen. Wo kann ich denn sonst die Pullys und den Riemen bekommen ?
Außer Aliexpress habe ich bisher keine andere Bezugsquelle gefunden. Alternativ würden sich auch 9mm Riemen anbieten, diese sind auch ausreichend stark.
@@leonbrauns OK, vielen Dank für die Info,
muss ich mich wohl gedulden, oder 10mm Riemen und Pullys, die hab ich gefunden.
Anglais
hello do you have the part number used? engine motherboard...
I wonder if your belt drive mod would make a better type of cartesian 3D printer. The ghosting artefacts from a heavy bed on a stretchy Y belt would be reduced.
I really like your modified version of the MPCNC.
Can you please tell me what spindle you used to get such amazing results with aluminium?
I am using a "FME-P 1050" by AMB
your editing is top notch.
But it sounds like your talking with a sleeping child right next to you. wispier quiet and sometimes unclear. try talking with more authority.
good idea with the stepper connectors. i just took mine apart and rewired them with shielded cable. unnecessary to be shielded but it was cheap. I needed longer wires and didn't want to splice them.
Thanks, I am going to keep this in mind.
haha lol i had similar thoughts, lol try this quick fix :
th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=speak+like+a+boss+tutorial&spfreload=1
I very much like your work. That said, English (my native tongue) is very tricky. Please speak up. Your words are worth hearing! :)
Benjamin Patrick as a german: no. english is far from being "tricky".
@@FrustratedBaboon Constructive criticism isn't complaining.
This could be a cool 3d printer design too. just add some vertical supports and switch the motor location for the z axis. Where are the build files and all the firmware? I want to make one but modify it into a 3d printer.
Hi, nice work there.
Question, on 2:16 you show the Roller, but the head of the screw looks "changed", did you do anything to it? If I use the normal M8 screws I think the 3mm steel would not fit through, right?
Thanks
You gave me quite some headache till I found in the comments that you had made the whole a bit tighter for the screw to fit. ;-)
However, I am not sure if I like this, so I am trying to redesign your model with a pocket for the screw-head. I hope this works too and will not break all the way. If you like, I can share the outcome with you.
Thanks for sharing your ideas, they are really cool..
Could do with the GCODE you created for calibration.
It is mesmerizing to watch your build.. Is there any chance of designing 3d printer out of square aluminium tubes or pipes in future ... It could be great as it seems to available easy and cheap compared to aluminium profiles.... Once again thank you for your amazing video
Thanks a lot! The MPCNC is fully customizable, so you can make it to whatever size you want for your 3d printer and just add an extruder and hotend instead of a spindle.
Brauns CNC sure , thanks for the reply... gonna try after fixing my existing 3D printer.. Have a pleasant day..
There is another project called the Piper 3d printer that you might want to check out.
Oh yeah ... Thanks for sharing ... I will check on that 😄
Hi, could you please share STL files dor double belt parts? Thanks for great video
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101774
Awesome! Great stuff and awesome work!
I just started printing and hope to get similar good results as you did.
Hope to see more from you! (especially working with Aluminium on the MPCNC)
Mach bitte weiter so! :)
I have a 3018 cnc and I am wondering if I could use the control board (grbl) off that run the lowrider 2
Was wondering the size you made your MPCNC? And why? Looks like it is roughly 3 x 2 feet? Was wondering how high you made it? Thx and great video! Keep up the great work!
What model and brand are those crimpers you are using for the SM connector?
I love this and I love you for sharing
Won't the 3d printed prints eventually stretch and warp because they are PLA and not ABS or PETG?
Great build. Curious about the wires for the stepper motors. Can you put the link where you purchased them? Along with the connectors?
I got the cables from a shop in germany, they are called LiYCY 0035800. The connectors are available on aliexpress.
Does it have any text on the cable. I found a local store but the wires seem to thin. I don't think they will hold the current necessary for the motors.
This one has wires with 0.22mm and is rated for very low current. It has the text 4 x 0.22.
Mine are 2x2x0,25mm². I have 2A stepper motors and the original cables were 0,20mm². Also keep in mind that these 2A are a maximum rating. While the motors turn, the current from the driver (with microstepping) looks like a sine wave, so the rms value is roughly 1,4A. Thicker cables definitely won’t make things worse, but I think 0,22mm² should be enough.
I bought 22 awg cables, which translate into 0.327mm wires, for this purpose, but they are not shielded. I'll try them out first. If there aren't any issues, I'll keep that configuration. Otherwise, I'll search more in depth for shielded one.
Thanks
I would be happy to have an ABO back.
cool! bin schon am drucken :) was fuer ein controller ist das genau? wieviel NM haben diese Stepper motoren?
Das ist ein Arduino+RAMPS und die Stepper habe 59Ncm.
Hi what extra parts did you need to purchurse outside of the standard build bom to allow you to use 15mm belts? As I would like to use the same belts.
Could you share some info on 15mm belts? Are those GT2? I did something similar on my first CNC but I used HTD5 polyurethane with steel cords. If you don’t mind, were have you purchased 15mm belts and pulleys? Thanks.
Hi :) Did you get a 16 teeth pulley for the 15mm belt? Or did you use a 20 teeth? I can't find a 16T anywhere.
It has been awhile since you got your MPCNC going. What are its good and bad points for you?
Great technique and skills
Hi, du sagst so salob, es gibt genug Aufbauvideos, jedoch sind deine Teile anders in den Ecken, wie stapel ich die nun?
Question would it be possible to modify the CNC router to make it be able to cut 4'x8' sheets of plywood
It would be possible, but if you want to cut large sheets I would suggest you to search for the Lowrider CNC. It was made exactly for that purpose.
Interesting upgrades. I may have to incorporate some of them onto my MPCNC. Not sure PLA was the best choice; usually you see them in PETG or ABS.
I dislike ABS for a lot of reasons but rigidity isn't one of them while I absolutely love PETG but at 100% infill you can still bend it. For me 100% infill ABS would be the way to go but I have never managed to get ABS to behave for me no matter if an enclosed printer or not.
@@thebeststooge you should try ASA from rigid.ink
@EL Valenin I was so hyper for ASA when it first came out and the hype it had until I found out that if you can't print with ABS then do not even think about ASA.
@@thebeststooge th-cam.com/video/0cGk7VK39ZQ/w-d-xo.html this guy doesn't think so :)
How do I get the parts files without buying the full kit??
Considering how long those belts are, that tensioner isn't doing much
Sind die pulleys mit 20 Zähne oder 16 Zähne? Kann sie nur als 20 Zähne finden für dem 15mm Riemen!
Die Pulleys haben 20 Zähne.
@@leonbrauns super danke für die schnelle Antwort!!
Hey, ich bin gerade dabei eine mpcnc zu planen und möchte so viele Verbesserunge wie möglich einbauen. Dein System mit dem 15mm Gt2 gefällt mir sehr gut. Leider bekomme ich diesen schlecht. Habe nur 1x erfolgreich gefunden bei Aliexpress. Wie viele Zähne haben deine Pullies?
Die haben 20 Zähne und kommen, genauso wie der Riemen, von Aliexpress.
I think that was a bad solution with extra belt. There will be cuttings cause troubles with move and precision.
Looks great and you have great design skills and video editing skills. But maybe consider linear bearings (12mm) for all axis movements this would ease the design and reduce the part number.
kann man deinen werkzeughalter welcher auf die trägerplatte der mpcnc geschraubt wird als stl von dir bekommen ? wäre super
Hi, you did an amazing job! I am impressed!
At 0:59 I saw containers, can you share a link to the model?
Nice work. Where I can buy a crimping tool you used in 5:18 ?
He replied to someone else: PA-20
I love this design, but I cant find the files for 23.5mm conduit, Im in the US and the only thing I can find locally is EMT generic conduit at HomeDepot which is 23.5mm
What are the dimensions of the largest printed piece? Am considering buying a 3D printer and would like to know if the ones in my price range are capable of printing the parts.
230 by 230 by 200 is more than enough, so a ender 3 will do the job easily while being cheap
Es wäre sehr nett wenn sie noch vermerken würden das die einzelne Schraube bei den Rollern anderst montiert wird als es in der Originalanleitung ist. Habe nich darüber nachgedacht und die Löcher 4x einfach auf 8mm erweitert :D Wundere mich die ganze zeit weshalb der "mist" nicht passt aber jetzt ist es klar.
5:26 What pliers you are using. Thanks in advance
Tolles Projekt!
Wenn du die Fräse nochmals bauen würdest, welche Maße würdest du verwenden? Ich hab gesehen, dass du auch Stahl probiert hast und möchte bei meinem bau die ideale Größe haben.
Vielen Dank :)
Bei der Größe kommt es darauf an, wofür du die Fräse brauchst. Wenn du noch nicht genau weißt, was du alles fräsen willst, bist du mit 600x300x40mm (meine Größe) ganz gut aufgestellt.
Brauns CNC vielen Dank für die Info!
Ich wollte ursprünglich 530x530x100mm nehmen, da sich das perfekt mit 6m Edelstahl ausgeht.
Zwei Fragen hätte ich trotzdem noch:
Hast du bei deinen 600mm kein Problem mit der Stabilität, da dies doch lang ist?
Wie passt dir die 40mm Z Achse? Ist das nicht zu kurz?
Bisher hatte ich noch keine Probleme mit den 600mm. Bei den 40mm habe ich an meinen maximalen z-Verfahrweg gedacht. Also die eigentliche z-Höhe ist schon mehr, aber trotzdem minimal (an den Ecken liegen die oberen und unteren Plastikteile direkt aufeinander auf)
Saulgeil! Ich bin gespannt auf weitere Videos!
Hey can U give me a full list for parts
What drag chains are you using there? they look pretty nice.
good job,
can you tell me the brand and the part number of your crimping plier for the pin please
That's a PA-20 made by Engineer.
What PLA did you use for the red parts in this video? Is it naturally matte or has it been sanded? Looks amazing! Thanks!
amazing friend. will you have the files of those parts to be able to print them? It would be great to be able to follow your steps, greetings from Argentina
For the original parts check out www.v1engineering.com/ .
My modifications can be found here: www.thingiverse.com/BraunsCNC/collections/mpcnc-modifications
Brauns CNC. great thank you very much friend I promise to share the step by step to meet the goal. bear hug for you
Would you be willing to share the STL files for your custom parts?
Is it possible to make that machine larger? What is the current workin area size?
For a bigger machine you can just use longer tubes. My work area is 60x30cm.
How does the MPCNC compare to a xcarve beside lower price. Better precision?
HI erstmal: ein super schöner Build!
Wo bekomm ich die 15mm Pulleys? Wieviel Zähne hat dein GT2 pully ? Welche Motoren (Drehmoment?) hast Du genommen?hast Du da ne Quelle? welche Elektronik benutzt du?
Danke. Die Pulleys haben 20 Zähne und kommen von Aliexpress, die Schrittmotoren haben 59Ncm und sind von Stepperonline. Elektronik ist ein Arduino Mega mit RAMPS Board.
Добрый вечер, а возможно ли у вас приобрести ,макеты креплений . Которые вы напечатали на 3D принтере? Спасибо.
чувак модели крепления создаются в sketchup или компас3d за полчаса
хочешь я сделаю тебе за деньги?
What stepper motor are those, nema 17, whats the amps? Will they be enough to cut aluminum?
search mpcnc on thingiverse.com for complete guide.
what is your card ??? looks like a cnc shield but don't recognize this one. do you have a link ?
Congratulations, beautiful video and design. Which map do you use to manage your motors. I am french and I can not find a good tutorial on the electronic part
Hi Leon, coole Ideen, die Du dort umgesetzt hast ;) Besteht die Möglichkeit die Dateien davon zu bekommen? Danke. Gruß Andre
Die Dateien gibt es hier: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101774
hello. nice work with the belts! could you share the changed parts for the 15mm gt2 belt system???
Thanks! Parts can be found here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101774
@@leonbrauns Thanks for sharing your parts. looks far more rigid then the original. the angle iron is 20x20?
Bin grad hier drüber gestolpert, wenn mein corexy Zusammenbau läuft is die cnc dran. Die breiteren belts sind ein Muss! Isn richtig netter Ansatz den du da hast mit den gekonterten Riemen. Haste im Betrieb keine Probleme damit, dass du dir dazwischen Späne sammelst? Wär blöd, wenn die durch den Druck der Umlenkrolle aufbauen und die Zahnscheibe nicht mehr greift. Der Heißkleber hält auf den warmen Motoren?
Gruß t3cker
Da die Riemen meistens aufeinander liegen kommen da kaum Späne rein. Wobei man trotzdem ab und zu nachschauen und säubern sollte. Die Motoren werden höchstens handwarm, bisher macht der Heißkleber keine Probleme.
Do you know, what is biggest possible dimension of such CNC? 1x1m, 1x1.5m..?
The bigger you go, the less rigid the machine gets. But I have no experience on exactly how big you could go with this machine.
2:11 What name do I get that bar with pins?
What gear did you buy to use it with that belt and that engine?
Do you have any link on aliexpress to buy it?
thank you
That would be interesting for me too. Please excuse my bad grammar ;-)
very professional project
Will you update the bill of material on your website to match the updated version of the MPCNC?
BTW you are great and the idea of a printed CNC is so nice and affordable. I love it.
THANK you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Just to clarify: I am neither the inventor of the MPCNC nor a part of its official development. However you can find my custom parts on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101774
@@leonbrauns ... yes I realised that some time after I posted the comment... non the less I really liked your videos about the MPCNC.
Die Dupont-Stecker an den Nema17 schaut super aus. Darf ich fragen woher du die hast?
Ich würd gern mal fragen ob du was zu den Kosten sagen kannst die die Teile in Summe gekostet haben? Hast du hier evtl. eine Aufstellung?
Braun, thanks for sharing your thoughts on this video. I noticed you are using a double-belt design. In the USA, this design has a patent pending by Bell-Evermann. Of course, hobbyists may construct the design for themselves but not for sale. The reduced exposed belt length makes a huge difference in rigidity.
There is also another similar design that might interest you. The upper belt can be a small continuous belt that is double-sided. The inside teeth wrap around the motor and pulleys, and the outer teeth mesh with the lower belt.
Nice video!
Thanks for the comment!
Brauns CNC, will you be sharing your parts designs as well?
He already did: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101774
You have to crapping me. Someone is trying to patent the idea of using 2 belts? Good luck with that.
There is NO 'patent pending' on this design. The patent application by Bell-Everman (US20090301237, filed in 2008) was rejected and subsequently abandoned because the idea was not new.
Already in 1979 German company Hamuel Werkzeugfabrik described this idea in their patent application DE2910373 which has lapsed long ago. It was also disclosed in e.g. DE3935690 (1989), JPH08121558 (1994), JP2000229717 (1999) and many more.
Was hast du für Kabel genommen? 0,14mm² LiYCY ?
nice idea using that upside down belt , does make it harder to square that machine (as to cant tension the belt one way or the other ) unless you halfstep the motors or put a tensioner on each side of the motor
might be usefull to slot the angle iron so you can move it and the gleud on belt slightly to compensate for out of square
the steppermotors can get pretty hot so you might want to add a tiewrap or two to hold the plug on top of the motor
Thanks for the comment. I am going to add dual endstops, so one endstop for each side. After these have been carefully adjusted the motors will drag the machine into being square.
I haven’t shown it directly, but I added a tie wrap to the motors (you can see it in the last picture). However if the hot glue melts I am going to have another problem, as the motor mount is printed in PLA which will soften way before that point. Therefore I have to keep the motors cool, either by lowering the current or by adding additional heatsinks.
Brauns, this is great stuff. The belt technique is amazing. Where can I find that old MPCNC file with the flat top corners? The vicious1 website offers only the latest design.
These are my design and available on thinigiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101774
Question can i use a arduino with cnc shield instead to but the rambo board ?
Yes you can
Could you please share the link for 15mm belt and pulleys?
Belt: www.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-5meters-GT2-open-timing-belt-width-9mm-10mm-12mm-15mm-20mm-2GT-belt-for/32812032121.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dcCtMZ8
Pulley: www.aliexpress.com/item/3d-printer-pulley-aluminum-timing-pulley-2GT-20teeth-bore-5mm-6mm-6-35mm-8mm-pulley-for/32832670703.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dcCtMZ8