Your apology was not necessary... we would be very disappointed if you did not show us this essential part of the build! It's the part where you get the "warm fuzzies" as payback for your hours of work. Great videos thanks, liked and subscribed.
4:20 min -> the marks that are mades came from the way you are working ; if you look closely, you will see that when it’s working left to right there isn’t any problem. However in the other side, marks are made It’s caused by the way your bit is turning (I don’t know how to say it in English but in French it’s called “travail en avalant ou en repoussant”) the good way to work with a CNC to have a perfect result is by working “en avalant” If your bit is turning counterclockwise, the part of the bit that should be in contact with material is the left part for exemple
I think you are talking about climb and conventional milling. It actually created a ridge in both directions. The lightning and camera angle hides the other one quite well, but I could definitely see and feel it while filming. Thanks for your input nonetheless, going to make sure that I am always working "en avalant" ;).
yup, thats what he ment, but the problem is the width of cut as i see it, you coud double the feedrate at least and never take a wider cut than half of ure bitsize, but i just run easy matarials like MDF,lexan,macrolon,plexi and sometimes soft metals like aluminium or brass / copper
Fantastic stuff. I have a GearBest T8 engraver, with limit switches made of microswitches epoxied onto the frame - took forever, half the time I glued the switch shut, and one of them since fell off. Envious of your much more sensible ones!
I am building a couple of these right now with my Adv Man high school class. They are great projects. I like some of the mods vs just the original files. I will need to look up the models and add them to our builds.
Super informative! I wanted to be able to prototype with 3d prints and replace them with aluminum. What was the price overall estimate not including any 3d printed components?
Great video. Thanks. But just one small suggestion. Please try to keep the background music level, below the level of your voice, so that we don't have to keep fiddling with the volume control, whenever the music comes in.
you actually should turn up your feed rates. that foam will cut as fast as you can run the machine and the wood cutting you can run 2 to 3 times faster
The cutting of polystyrene board made me wonder: could that be useful. CNC board, apply resin and glass fibres, apply beauty resin coat. Maybe that would be light and strong.
@@runforitman basically imagine its cutting clockwise looking from above. You want the good edge to be on the left side of the direction you are traveling so the blades cut well. If its on the right side then the bit will want to skip along because the blades are pushing in the same direction you are. If you are cutting a channel and theres wood on both sides, cut in the direction that puts the good side on the left. So basically anticlockwise around outside curves and clockwise on inside curves. (Assuming bit is rotating clockwise ftom above)
its looking good. i recently tried making wooden props for display but my flipping method was flawed. my mpcnc didn't like milling a pine 2x4 it would start chattering in the dark grain and eventually ruined the project..
Hi great job on your build. I have a question about the specs of your build. What controller bird did you use? Do you know what the differences are between the SKR pro and the Rambo?
Fantastic video watching those first chips. And the music was definitely fitting to the video. Some videos use the music that is way too loud or massively not appealing to a vast majority, however you chose some good middle of the road music for most. Can I ask for a link please to the plugs you added to the top of each stepper motor please.
Brauns CNC awesome. Ideally what I'd love to find are ones that have screw ends on the plugs. Have you seen the ones on Openbuilds? openbuildspartstore.com/xtension-connectors/
I haven't seen those before. However I would prefer crimped connectors. There are many different types available so you can choose them depending on your application and they are a lot cheaper.
@@CiaranWhelan Crimps are a hell of a lot better than stranded wire in a screw terminal. If we're going full belt-and-suspenders, the wires would have ferrules crimped on them before being put in the screw terminals so they don't come out as easily and make better contact. Ultimately both ways you're crimping stuff and the more robust and more compact way is crimp only.
Do you use "Dual endStop" or "old" diagram for connecting stepper motors? "Dual EndStop" means that every stepper driver manages only one stepper motor, "Old" - every stepper driver manages two motors.
Great video, great focus on differences to other approaches. Your modifications are very interesting, a solid foundation for increased precision. May I ask a question on the stainless steel tubes - do you use constuction or precision type tubes? Some MPCNC makers are reporting on issues with diameter tolerance using the chaeper (~8€/m) consturction tubes. What's your experience/recommendation?
HEy Brauns CNC Saugeile videos =) Würdest Du vielleicht noch für schwere Spindeln zb ne 3kw Wassergekühlte eine Doppelrohr Version machen und mir/uns die F Version zur Verfügung stellen ? Das wäre Top !! Grüße aus Unterfranken
hab eine 2,2 kw Importspindel mit Wasserkühlung geht auch ohne Doppelrohr Version zumal meine Fräse 1700x500x150mm ist aber eine Doppelrohr Version wäre schon geil ^^ :D
@@benh8core212 Naja dadurch das die Y-Achse nur 500mm ist hält sie die X-Achse recht gut oben. Habe auch Mittelstützen welche dem Außenrahmen noch Stabilität geben..
@@dukeofficial2457 Hast du deine Teile von thingiverse / bzw bei Thingiverse ? Würde mich super über die Teile freuen, jedoch stehe ich mit 3D Zeichenprogrammen auf Kriegsfuß.. Meine Fräse (wäre schön wennse alu könnte) sollte (Aussenmaß 1200x800x XXX) nicht überschreiten
@@benh8core212 Hi hier die Spindelhalterung www.thingiverse.com/thing:1964028 Baue allerdings grade auf die Lowrider um da es mir für Alu doch zu Instabil geworden ist bei der Größe.
Not a giant fan of the limit switches attach method because I'd worry they could slide slightly on the rail and mess with the dimensions of the work area.
i was honestly thinking about doing this but how are the 3D printed parts holding up and what about that milling motor is there another version you would pick that is more stable for example mounting it more directly with nuts and bolts rather than heaving it tied down with plastic parts, over time they would break?
@@leonbrauns thats great to hear. i was looking at building one actually and wanted to know if it was worth doing. i plan on doing mostly aluminium. any advice on what you would change to make that work better? i was looking at a large build area.
If you don’t have any experience with CNC machines the MPCNC is a great starting point. It definitely can cut aluminum, but it will take some time. Also you want to have a work area as small as possible for increased rigidity.
Recently got an Ender 3, finally got it dialed in, so eager to start printing parts for an MPCNC after seeing your build! Out of curiosity (and to not break any endmills), what RPM, Feed Rate and depth of cut were you using to mill the wood?
I don‘t know the feeds and speeds I used in this video anymore, but milling wood is fairly easy. Start with something like 20000rpm, 600mm/min and a small depth of cut and work your way up.
First order of operation: A Dust Shoe ( imgur.com/a/64PLvHl ) Btw... @05:30 You may want to enable _Both Ways_ in *F360* when doing 2D Adaptive... Saves time and if you're concerned about surface finish I'd recommend leaving 0.25mm material at the sides and the bottom and finish with a regular 2D Pocket but then with zero Stock left which - IMHO - produces a nicer pattern in the material
Aha and with GRBL? What program would you recommend as gcode sender? Mach3? You mod made me really wanna build that machine. I will follow your progress!
Ja habe ich gesehen, aber bin eher skeptisch. Das zweite Rohr müsste auf der anderen Seite der Spindel sein, so wie es im Video ist bringt es glaube nicht viel.
Please learn more about Fusion 360 and about CNC machining in general, I do not wish to discourage you in any way. This is a whole hell of a lot better than my first CNC machined part. Look into Lars Christensen who is a Design & Manufacturing Expert, Titans of CNC because Titan owns his own Job Shop and runs sick speeds and feeds but offers a few Academy online to learn, and maybe TFI CAD Tips (which is Autodesk Inventor focused but great for CAD). Just....improve work holding, always climb mill, and learn about chip per tooth milling. Use high feed rates and shallower cuts and you speed up machining so much. I look forward to seeing some of your future videos, stay safe.
That is certainly interesting. As a CNC machinist, typically working with titanium, high-end steels and stainless steels, 6061 and 7075 aluminum, engineering plastics like Delrin and Polyethylene or polyethylene based plastics, and a variety of other materials, I find this video rather hard to finish. I understand "This was my first ever cut with a CNC machine." I'm glad you did that with a very soft material. Holding anything in CNC down with double sided tape makes me cringe. With all due respect, it appears that you are still VERY ignorant of using CNC machines and as a result have not developed quite the level of respect you need to and should have for CNC machines, generally speaking. While that is quite an interesting build, I would strongly urge you to be considerably more safety conscious and excessive and obsessive about workholding (how the thing you intend to cut is fixed/fastened to the table), speeds (rpm) and feeds (linear cutting feed rate in units like IPM or inches per minute), depth of cut (the amount you take off per pass), tool engagement (typically the depth in the Z direction on a mill, percentage or amount of flute length engaged in the material), chip load (size of the chip per tooth), and the specific programmed path of the tool. I say this not to discredit you or to discourage you, but to ensure you remain safe and the individuals who consume your content who may recreate such a project also learn the correct, safe, intelligent, efficient, and industry standard best practices. As a starting point, subscribe to: Titans of CNC, Haas (they do "Tip of the Day" educational videos), NYC CNC, and Lars Christensen who is a Design & Manufacturing Expert who helps people that haaa-ate struggling with their CAD/CAM Software utilizing Fusion 360, which is offered by Autodesk (a lower tier version of the software suite) completely for free. For now, I would suggest a sacrificial bed where you can screw the material into the bed so your stock doesn't move or fly out or shift and break a tool that flies at your eye real quick. Do not, under any circumstances, touch that machine without safety glasses. Do not wear jewellery or loose clothing of any kind. I would probably urge you to build an enclosure out of acrylic or something that could stop flying debris with a custom 3D printed shop vac attachment (similar to the part cooling fans on a 3D printer). Air blast could also work (we have through tool coolant, nice but unnecessary for hobbyist) but with that material I'd rather vacuum it up quickly than blow it off. You should really do some more homework about using a CNC Router/Mill and do so now before you hurt yourself. It's a pretty cool accomplishment and I haven't built a router or mill yet but it's on my to-do list, I'll probably make a CNC lathe first. You should very quickly develop more respect for it though, in the wrong hands they are exceptionally dangerous in ways that aren't always easy/obvious to see and at the speeds they can easily operate at, if something goes wrong....your reaction time is often many many times too slow. Your non-cutting speeds are unnecessarily slow, however, this is better being too slow than too fast and something happen. Tool paths could use a lot of work, but not terrible to start, just largely hideously inefficient in comparison to what they should be. Learn about the concept of trochoidal milling. Also, spend some money on tools, do not cheap out on these. In this industry, you really do get what you pay for, choose wisely and go only for name brand stuff even if it is more expensive because the peace of mind, tool documentation, and customer support is truly invaluable. To learn more about trochoidal milling, I would suggest starting here: www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/introduction-trochoidal-milling/ It does not matter if you intend to be a CNC machinist or not. If you learn what is common in this industry as far as tool paths and how it affects the life of the tool, cycle/cutting times, the mess from cutting, and recognize and prevent potential future mistakes. Learning the best practices will ensure your safety, cost you less in tools, reduce the time it takes to make stuff, reduce cost of cutting material and various other things that would simply just add up to a better experience with your new creation. Looks pretty cool so far! Stay safe.
ah calm down already. yes safety is important, however using this machine is not even remotely as dangerous as using an angle grinder, since that one is in your hand already, and spinning much more mass at a higher speed. we all use that one regularly without thinking twice. he already said hes building a cover for it wich makes it even safer. let him figure out himself the limits of his machine, what it can do and what he shouldnt do with it. besides, not everything that a proffesional is thaught not to do, is nessicarily a bad thing. double sided tape workholding works fine for small soft materials and is used regularly with woodcarving and such projects. yes clamping works even better but this is fine for home machines. hes not machining titanium at full speed.
That was a long but extremely helpful post. For those of us that are not trained and getting into this as a hobby your safety points hit home immediately. Really appreciate it when people like yourself take the time to help others like me purely by generosity and willingness to help others. Big thumbs up to your post. Cheers.
@@TheEvanovitch He's not machining titanium at full speed, no. That still does not negate the fact that it is a potential risk unless the correct adhesive is used for the material being cut. I would have no problem if it as being laser cut or if super strong magnets were used. The forces in milling though, from my experience and my education about workholding.....I wouldn't, and also wouldn't recommend it for this form of manufacturing. Use a sacrificial bed, screw the material down and avoid the screws or only use it with real light duty stuff. Nothing above foam in my option.
@@marklowe7431 Thank you very much, that's why I do it. I try not to nitpick but when a video that could influence a lot of people comes out and there are oversights or scenarios that people will likely replicate, and most will do it ignorantly, it can quickly become a scenario where someone gets hurt and with these machines that can very quickly become fatal or at the very least life changing (like if someone becomes comfortable not wearing safety glasses). And that's not trying to say anything bad, I say ignorance and the inclination is to often feel dumb or ashamed. I mean genuine ignorance, the lack of knowledge and insight that puts that person in the situation to begin with, most likely by not being exposed to the education or experience, such as the industry standards and best practices that I've learned or that the FDA enforce in a biomedical manufacturing company, or in a machine shop where the owners can't afford employee insurance or a lawsuit 😂 Plus, if I save just one person from hurting themselves, my time was worth it. It also hopefully improves the future content. People that get into this as a hobby will often never really get exposed to what not to do and I think it is equally important (if not more so) to know what the potential risks are and where one can improve. Take the tool path for example, sure....it works and for the first ever part, the fact that it works at all is already better than where I started haha. The first half a dozen tool paths I produced were....omg...complete and utter failures 😂 luckily, my teacher made us simulate the tool path two inches above the part every time (expensive tools, expensive machine, bunch of ignorant people doing it...probably doesn't take too many mistakes to learn that it could save a lot of time and money haha). Not only can you check the coordinates and verify the machine is doing what you want it to do, but you really get a can visualize any mistakes (let's say you only have one piece of stock or the stock is very expensive or irreplaceable) and at worst you can slowly creep down and just touch the part and just skim it to make sure dimensions are accurate and whatnot. It's especially helpful for when you didn't program the CNC. I'm still thinking of making my own channel but if you have any questions, feel free to contact me. I'm actually designing my own DIY CNC machine. The only thing that is taking so long is I am so accustomed to my standards with $100,000+ CNC machines that I don't want to do without many of the features and comforts. As a result it will be a bit of an "enthusiast's diy build" utilizing brushless DC servo motors with encoders and a competent control system following many industry standards like having an E-Stop and enclosure and coolant integrated into it (whether it is liquid coolant or air blast). As I get deeper and deeper into it I'm thinking of just starting a TH-cam channel to document it since its so involved. It'll end up being pretty close to plug and play though as I'm used to diy 3D printers too. I want crazy high precision without having to spend so much on motors and controllers. But ball screws might be a necessary cost. I'll leave room for people that want to use different linear motion systems like lead screws or belts though. Open-Source the whole thing so people can reproduce it themselves, see if I can make it 3D printable too.
Always satisfying to get those first chips. Great job on the build, modifications, and sharing your journey.
Your apology was not necessary... we would be very disappointed if you did not show us this essential part of the build! It's the part where you get the "warm fuzzies" as payback for your hours of work. Great videos thanks, liked and subscribed.
The spindle bit at the start had me in tears!!! Thanks!
Wow that looks awsome. I like the threaded inserts you used, I will definitely be incorporating those into my plans. Great Job!
4:20 min -> the marks that are mades came from the way you are working ; if you look closely, you will see that when it’s working left to right there isn’t any problem. However in the other side, marks are made
It’s caused by the way your bit is turning (I don’t know how to say it in English but in French it’s called “travail en avalant ou en repoussant”) the good way to work with a CNC to have a perfect result is by working “en avalant”
If your bit is turning counterclockwise, the part of the bit that should be in contact with material is the left part for exemple
I think you are talking about climb and conventional milling. It actually created a ridge in both directions. The lightning and camera angle hides the other one quite well, but I could definitely see and feel it while filming. Thanks for your input nonetheless, going to make sure that I am always working "en avalant" ;).
yup, thats what he ment, but the problem is the width of cut as i see it, you coud double the feedrate at least and never take a wider cut than half of ure bitsize, but i just run easy matarials like MDF,lexan,macrolon,plexi and sometimes soft metals like aluminium or brass / copper
sry, i also have a 60 K rpm spindle...
makes a big difference...
Most helpful CNC machinist comment award, goes to this guy.
wow amazing quality that incredible!! you have the best homemade cnc ever!
Really nice job with this! It is very satisfying to watch. Great job!
What i find most impressive is although these are sort of home made kits the engineering is amazing.
Fantastic stuff. I have a GearBest T8 engraver, with limit switches made of microswitches epoxied onto the frame - took forever, half the time I glued the switch shut, and one of them since fell off. Envious of your much more sensible ones!
Great work, wonderful engineering design and logical thinking
Great video!!!
Best compliment anyone can ever get from the original designer!
The kind of humor reminds me of this old Tony.
The magic of video editing...
I am building a couple of these right now with my Adv Man high school class. They are great projects. I like some of the mods vs just the original files. I will need to look up the models and add them to our builds.
you have a lot of potential man
Very impressive work!!
Really a nice video. Great work. I like it. Thanks for sharing.
The use of a handheld shop vac shows that you should mount a vac system to the cutting head.
Super informative! I wanted to be able to prototype with 3d prints and replace them with aluminum. What was the price overall estimate not including any 3d printed components?
Great video. Thanks. But just one small suggestion. Please try to keep the background music level, below the level of your voice, so that we don't have to keep fiddling with the volume control, whenever the music comes in.
you actually should turn up your feed rates. that foam will cut as fast as you can run the machine and the wood cutting you can run 2 to 3 times faster
Subscribed! Brilliant. What were your Design Goals and Compromises? Thx.
Fantastic, looking forward to the update :)
I am thinking of buying exactly that spindle. Is it noisy? (it's not brushless, is it?)
That intro!!
You've probably learnt thus already but always best to move the spindle into open space fir tool changing
You should 3d print a vacuum hose tip that stays close to the drill. Just an idea.
The cutting of polystyrene board made me wonder: could that be useful. CNC board, apply resin and glass fibres, apply beauty resin coat. Maybe that would be light and strong.
What's the name of the spindle and Can you cut aluminum with it
😱 dude ! That's freaken bad ass
Just a quick tip, when cutting wood or anything really try and cut in a conventional direction so the bit doesn't try to 'skip' along
alfred spiteri hili what do you mean by “a conventional direction”?
@@runforitman basically imagine its cutting clockwise looking from above. You want the good edge to be on the left side of the direction you are traveling so the blades cut well. If its on the right side then the bit will want to skip along because the blades are pushing in the same direction you are. If you are cutting a channel and theres wood on both sides, cut in the direction that puts the good side on the left. So basically anticlockwise around outside curves and clockwise on inside curves. (Assuming bit is rotating clockwise ftom above)
Hello, congratulations on your project, it was very good. What is your cnc router controller card, drivers and motors?
For cutting foam you might need a quadruple belt!
its looking good.
i recently tried making wooden props for display but my flipping method was flawed.
my mpcnc didn't like milling a pine 2x4 it would start chattering in the dark grain and eventually ruined the project..
Hi great job on your build. I have a question about the specs of your build. What controller bird did you use? Do you know what the differences are between the SKR pro and the Rambo?
Fantastic video watching those first chips. And the music was definitely fitting to the video. Some videos use the music that is way too loud or massively not appealing to a vast majority, however you chose some good middle of the road music for most.
Can I ask for a link please to the plugs you added to the top of each stepper motor please.
Just search for "SM2.54" on your favorite shopping site (aliexpress, ebay...).
Brauns CNC awesome. Ideally what I'd love to find are ones that have screw ends on the plugs. Have you seen the ones on Openbuilds?
openbuildspartstore.com/xtension-connectors/
I haven't seen those before. However I would prefer crimped connectors. There are many different types available so you can choose them depending on your application and they are a lot cheaper.
@@CiaranWhelan Crimps are a hell of a lot better than stranded wire in a screw terminal. If we're going full belt-and-suspenders, the wires would have ferrules crimped on them before being put in the screw terminals so they don't come out as easily and make better contact. Ultimately both ways you're crimping stuff and the more robust and more compact way is crimp only.
That was awesome.
I was alittle confused with the spindle 😂😂
Do you use "Dual endStop" or "old" diagram for connecting stepper motors? "Dual EndStop" means that every stepper driver manages only one stepper motor, "Old" - every stepper driver manages two motors.
very cleaver. thanks for sharing knowledge.
Hello. I like the double belt upgrade! How do you call that tape you used on the spindle clamp at 1:00?
That is foam tape.
Great video, great focus on differences to other approaches. Your modifications are very interesting, a solid foundation for increased precision. May I ask a question on the stainless steel tubes - do you use constuction or precision type tubes? Some MPCNC makers are reporting on issues with diameter tolerance using the chaeper (~8€/m) consturction tubes. What's your experience/recommendation?
According to the price, it seems I am using the construction tube. I haven’t had any problems with them.
HEy Brauns CNC
Saugeile videos =)
Würdest Du vielleicht noch für schwere Spindeln zb ne 3kw Wassergekühlte eine Doppelrohr Version machen und mir/uns die F Version zur Verfügung stellen ?
Das wäre Top !!
Grüße aus Unterfranken
hab eine 2,2 kw Importspindel mit Wasserkühlung geht auch ohne Doppelrohr Version zumal meine Fräse 1700x500x150mm ist aber eine Doppelrohr Version wäre schon geil ^^ :D
@@dukeofficial2457 und wieweit sackt deine spindel ab ?
denke mal lockere 2mm in der mitte
@@benh8core212 Naja dadurch das die Y-Achse nur 500mm ist hält sie die X-Achse recht gut oben. Habe auch Mittelstützen welche dem Außenrahmen noch Stabilität geben..
@@dukeofficial2457 Hast du deine Teile von thingiverse / bzw bei Thingiverse ? Würde mich super über die Teile freuen, jedoch stehe ich mit 3D Zeichenprogrammen auf Kriegsfuß.. Meine Fräse (wäre schön wennse alu könnte) sollte (Aussenmaß 1200x800x XXX) nicht überschreiten
@@benh8core212 Hi hier die Spindelhalterung www.thingiverse.com/thing:1964028
Baue allerdings grade auf die Lowrider um da es mir für Alu doch zu Instabil geworden ist bei der Größe.
Not a giant fan of the limit switches attach method because I'd worry they could slide slightly on the rail and mess with the dimensions of the work area.
great work!
What software do you use to work the team and recognize what you want to do in it? greetings excellent project.
i was honestly thinking about doing this but how are the 3D printed parts holding up and what about that milling motor is there another version you would pick that is more stable for example mounting it more directly with nuts and bolts rather than heaving it tied down with plastic parts, over time they would break?
So far no plastic part has failed. Also the spindle mounting brackets are plenty stiff and work very well together with the spindle.
@@leonbrauns thats great to hear. i was looking at building one actually and wanted to know if it was worth doing. i plan on doing mostly aluminium. any advice on what you would change to make that work better? i was looking at a large build area.
If you don’t have any experience with CNC machines the MPCNC is a great starting point. It definitely can cut aluminum, but it will take some time. Also you want to have a work area as small as possible for increased rigidity.
Recently got an Ender 3, finally got it dialed in, so eager to start printing parts for an MPCNC after seeing your build!
Out of curiosity (and to not break any endmills), what RPM, Feed Rate and depth of cut were you using to mill the wood?
I don‘t know the feeds and speeds I used in this video anymore, but milling wood is fairly easy. Start with something like 20000rpm, 600mm/min and a small depth of cut and work your way up.
Moin geiles Ding darf man Frage wo du deine Fräser kaufst?
This is Unbelievable! Was wondering if the STL's are available for the Modified parts you used?
Check out the description.
CNC polystyrene fast with deep cuts. Pour concrete into the mould you just made. Cure. De-mould.
Fantástico. Máquina show, parabéns
Hallo. Würdest du diese CNC noch einmal bauen und verkaufen?😄 finde es echt interessant, aber würde mich selbst nicht da ran trauen sie zu bauen
That's funny, I did "Hello World" for my first cut as well when I finished my mpcnc.
Ok....I need to build one now.
Wich Board do you use to controll your MPCNC ?
Great work! Could you try to mill aluminium next time?
Definitely!
Bravo!
Very nice job, I am interested :)
how much time it takes to print all the parts and wich material????...awesome
good job!
which controller board and software you are using?
How well does this platform work on hardwoods? Oak or Maple for example?
Nice modification :) Are you using Nema 17 or 23? Thanks
with what routerbits did you start experimenting?
How much does the industry cost and programming cnc
First order of operation: A Dust Shoe ( imgur.com/a/64PLvHl )
Btw... @05:30 You may want to enable _Both Ways_ in *F360* when doing 2D Adaptive... Saves time and if you're concerned about surface finish I'd recommend leaving 0.25mm material at the sides and the bottom and finish with a regular 2D Pocket but then with zero Stock left which - IMHO - produces a nicer pattern in the material
What dimensions does the MPCNC have with you?
Next time use USB C so you can't get it wrong ;) 2:43
Maby you have already answered this but what controller board did you use?
I am currently using a RAMPS board with TMC2208 stepper drivers.
Aha and with GRBL? What program would you recommend as gcode sender? Mach3? You mod made me really wanna build that machine. I will follow your progress!
The firmware is Marlin and Pronterface is sending the gcode.
put the link of the parts or pieces to buy
Hi what is your software for générateur gcode ? Thanks
Sehr schönes Video, schön etwas Humorvoll gemacht :D Gefällt mir!
Wieviel hat die Fräse denn jetzt ca gekostet?
Gruß Cedric
Danke! Ich denke ich bin bei etwa 500€ gelandet, wobei die Frässpindel 50% davon ausmacht.
@@leonbrauns hast du dir den link beim letzten video angeschaut, den ich gepostet habe? Geht um die doppelte Rohrführung. Was hältst du davon?
Ja habe ich gesehen, aber bin eher skeptisch. Das zweite Rohr müsste auf der anderen Seite der Spindel sein, so wie es im Video ist bringt es glaube nicht viel.
@@leonbrauns super, danke für die Antwort.
Wie groß ist denn dein fräsbereich?
60x30cm und in der Höhe ca 5cm.
can you calculate the all in all costs of the parts?.....about?
Roughly 500€ until this point in time.
Please learn more about Fusion 360 and about CNC machining in general, I do not wish to discourage you in any way. This is a whole hell of a lot better than my first CNC machined part. Look into Lars Christensen who is a Design & Manufacturing Expert, Titans of CNC because Titan owns his own Job Shop and runs sick speeds and feeds but offers a few Academy online to learn, and maybe TFI CAD Tips (which is Autodesk Inventor focused but great for CAD).
Just....improve work holding, always climb mill, and learn about chip per tooth milling. Use high feed rates and shallower cuts and you speed up machining so much. I look forward to seeing some of your future videos, stay safe.
구경 잘 했습니다. Good
How much did it all cost
Where i can buy all part?
Gde mogu ovakve masine dase poruce kupe cnc
Wie groß ist die Maschine 600mm x 500mm ?
Der Arbeitsbereich ist ca. 600x300x50mm.
Hello, please tell me what firmware you have is worth
Tell me about this project wirings
danke für die Info
What spindle is that?
AMB 1050 FME-P
Spindel Size, made my day :D
¡¿80 bearings?! Woooooow
what nema model are you using?
Nema 17
Haha good sense of humor
Wow small motor 🤪
genial genial bravo
hey with Al
That's a motor not a spindle
Nice intro lol :D
your 8x is what i call real speed in those materials.....
you should get into feeds and speeds, and also about the with of cut and you will be fine.. :)
und z höhe 70mm
@ 0:39 I think it's just better for all if we don't allow Germans to even attempt humor anymore....
That is certainly interesting. As a CNC machinist, typically working with titanium, high-end steels and stainless steels, 6061 and 7075 aluminum, engineering plastics like Delrin and Polyethylene or polyethylene based plastics, and a variety of other materials, I find this video rather hard to finish.
I understand "This was my first ever cut with a CNC machine." I'm glad you did that with a very soft material. Holding anything in CNC down with double sided tape makes me cringe. With all due respect, it appears that you are still VERY ignorant of using CNC machines and as a result have not developed quite the level of respect you need to and should have for CNC machines, generally speaking. While that is quite an interesting build, I would strongly urge you to be considerably more safety conscious and excessive and obsessive about workholding (how the thing you intend to cut is fixed/fastened to the table), speeds (rpm) and feeds (linear cutting feed rate in units like IPM or inches per minute), depth of cut (the amount you take off per pass), tool engagement (typically the depth in the Z direction on a mill, percentage or amount of flute length engaged in the material), chip load (size of the chip per tooth), and the specific programmed path of the tool.
I say this not to discredit you or to discourage you, but to ensure you remain safe and the individuals who consume your content who may recreate such a project also learn the correct, safe, intelligent, efficient, and industry standard best practices.
As a starting point, subscribe to: Titans of CNC, Haas (they do "Tip of the Day" educational videos), NYC CNC, and Lars Christensen who is a Design & Manufacturing Expert who helps people that haaa-ate struggling with their CAD/CAM Software utilizing Fusion 360, which is offered by Autodesk (a lower tier version of the software suite) completely for free.
For now, I would suggest a sacrificial bed where you can screw the material into the bed so your stock doesn't move or fly out or shift and break a tool that flies at your eye real quick.
Do not, under any circumstances, touch that machine without safety glasses. Do not wear jewellery or loose clothing of any kind. I would probably urge you to build an enclosure out of acrylic or something that could stop flying debris with a custom 3D printed shop vac attachment (similar to the part cooling fans on a 3D printer). Air blast could also work (we have through tool coolant, nice but unnecessary for hobbyist) but with that material I'd rather vacuum it up quickly than blow it off.
You should really do some more homework about using a CNC Router/Mill and do so now before you hurt yourself. It's a pretty cool accomplishment and I haven't built a router or mill yet but it's on my to-do list, I'll probably make a CNC lathe first. You should very quickly develop more respect for it though, in the wrong hands they are exceptionally dangerous in ways that aren't always easy/obvious to see and at the speeds they can easily operate at, if something goes wrong....your reaction time is often many many times too slow.
Your non-cutting speeds are unnecessarily slow, however, this is better being too slow than too fast and something happen. Tool paths could use a lot of work, but not terrible to start, just largely hideously inefficient in comparison to what they should be. Learn about the concept of trochoidal milling. Also, spend some money on tools, do not cheap out on these. In this industry, you really do get what you pay for, choose wisely and go only for name brand stuff even if it is more expensive because the peace of mind, tool documentation, and customer support is truly invaluable.
To learn more about trochoidal milling, I would suggest starting here:
www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/introduction-trochoidal-milling/
It does not matter if you intend to be a CNC machinist or not. If you learn what is common in this industry as far as tool paths and how it affects the life of the tool, cycle/cutting times, the mess from cutting, and recognize and prevent potential future mistakes. Learning the best practices will ensure your safety, cost you less in tools, reduce the time it takes to make stuff, reduce cost of cutting material and various other things that would simply just add up to a better experience with your new creation.
Looks pretty cool so far!
Stay safe.
ah calm down already. yes safety is important, however using this machine is not even remotely as dangerous as using an angle grinder, since that one is in your hand already, and spinning much more mass at a higher speed. we all use that one regularly without thinking twice. he already said hes building a cover for it wich makes it even safer. let him figure out himself the limits of his machine, what it can do and what he shouldnt do with it. besides, not everything that a proffesional is thaught not to do, is nessicarily a bad thing. double sided tape workholding works fine for small soft materials and is used regularly with woodcarving and such projects. yes clamping works even better but this is fine for home machines. hes not machining titanium at full speed.
That was a long but extremely helpful post. For those of us that are not trained and getting into this as a hobby your safety points hit home immediately. Really appreciate it when people like yourself take the time to help others like me purely by generosity and willingness to help others. Big thumbs up to your post. Cheers.
Have you seen the super glue + painters tape work holding that NYC CNC has been using a lot lately?
@@TheEvanovitch He's not machining titanium at full speed, no. That still does not negate the fact that it is a potential risk unless the correct adhesive is used for the material being cut. I would have no problem if it as being laser cut or if super strong magnets were used. The forces in milling though, from my experience and my education about workholding.....I wouldn't, and also wouldn't recommend it for this form of manufacturing. Use a sacrificial bed, screw the material down and avoid the screws or only use it with real light duty stuff. Nothing above foam in my option.
@@marklowe7431 Thank you very much, that's why I do it. I try not to nitpick but when a video that could influence a lot of people comes out and there are oversights or scenarios that people will likely replicate, and most will do it ignorantly, it can quickly become a scenario where someone gets hurt and with these machines that can very quickly become fatal or at the very least life changing (like if someone becomes comfortable not wearing safety glasses). And that's not trying to say anything bad, I say ignorance and the inclination is to often feel dumb or ashamed. I mean genuine ignorance, the lack of knowledge and insight that puts that person in the situation to begin with, most likely by not being exposed to the education or experience, such as the industry standards and best practices that I've learned or that the FDA enforce in a biomedical manufacturing company, or in a machine shop where the owners can't afford employee insurance or a lawsuit 😂
Plus, if I save just one person from hurting themselves, my time was worth it. It also hopefully improves the future content. People that get into this as a hobby will often never really get exposed to what not to do and I think it is equally important (if not more so) to know what the potential risks are and where one can improve.
Take the tool path for example, sure....it works and for the first ever part, the fact that it works at all is already better than where I started haha. The first half a dozen tool paths I produced were....omg...complete and utter failures 😂 luckily, my teacher made us simulate the tool path two inches above the part every time (expensive tools, expensive machine, bunch of ignorant people doing it...probably doesn't take too many mistakes to learn that it could save a lot of time and money haha). Not only can you check the coordinates and verify the machine is doing what you want it to do, but you really get a can visualize any mistakes (let's say you only have one piece of stock or the stock is very expensive or irreplaceable) and at worst you can slowly creep down and just touch the part and just skim it to make sure dimensions are accurate and whatnot. It's especially helpful for when you didn't program the CNC.
I'm still thinking of making my own channel but if you have any questions, feel free to contact me. I'm actually designing my own DIY CNC machine. The only thing that is taking so long is I am so accustomed to my standards with $100,000+ CNC machines that I don't want to do without many of the features and comforts. As a result it will be a bit of an "enthusiast's diy build" utilizing brushless DC servo motors with encoders and a competent control system following many industry standards like having an E-Stop and enclosure and coolant integrated into it (whether it is liquid coolant or air blast). As I get deeper and deeper into it I'm thinking of just starting a TH-cam channel to document it since its so involved. It'll end up being pretty close to plug and play though as I'm used to diy 3D printers too.
I want crazy high precision without having to spend so much on motors and controllers. But ball screws might be a necessary cost. I'll leave room for people that want to use different linear motion systems like lead screws or belts though. Open-Source the whole thing so people can reproduce it themselves, see if I can make it 3D printable too.
wow you used a machine to you could make a machine😮
Du scherzkeks 😉
I love your video s but PLEASE STOP USING THAT TERRIBLE LIBRARY MUSIC!!!!
its better than most youtube music so calm your ear tits.
I like it :(