CNC Mill for under $100
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- In this video I'm going to show how I built a basic CNC mill. Most of the hardware was sourced from spare / leftover parts I had laying around from other projects and ended up costing me under $100. It has a working area of approximately 250mm x 250mm x 70mm and is capable of milling aluminum (though somewhat rough).
The axes are moved with small NEMA17 stepper motors running at 24V, driven by A4988 drivers. The brain of the machine is an Arduino Uno running GRBL firmware, and G-code is sent to it via. USB from a laptop running Universal Gcode Sender - so everything is open source.
I have a little bit of experience operating a CNC mill, but this is the first one i've built / owned. The biggest learning experience from this build was that everything needs to be tightened up and made as rigid as possible to get good results. Between leadscrew backlash and rails flexing, the spindle could easily be moved +/- 1mm or more, which causes tons of vibration, chattering, rough cutting, and loss of precision. In a future video I'll be upgrading the spindle and beefing up the structure to use 16mm rails instead of 8mm for better rigidity.
I don't recommend trying to build this design yourself, because I created the printed brackets based on parts i had on hand, not what was "optimal". However, if you really want to, the STL's can be found here:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:526...
Music Used:
Kevin MacLeod - George Street Shuffle
Serge Pavkin - Atmospheric Ambient
Kevin MacLeod - Groove Groove
Eric Skiff - Underclocked
Serge Pavkin - Fractal
Ah yes, the old "under $100" nonsense where the video creator used $300 worth of material he had lying around but forgot to add that to the budget.
Let's not forget the 3d printer that made hundreds of dollars in custom parts that you will need as well.
Yeah I was like cool, I could do that!
Oh wait... no I can't. Guess the $165 one is the much better deal.
How to raise a child for under $100! Bill of materials: Baseball, Baseball Glove, Adult son you abandoned decades ago.
I was actually writing the same but I'm glad you did it for me.
Not to mention that even if it was $100, was all the time he spent designing and building it really only worth 65 dollars to him? Because for 65 dollars more he could've gotten a ready made machine.
You've convinced me to spend $200 on a premade one.
You'll get just as good quality. They're all pretty bad from a rigidity standpoint.
Sometimes seeing someone go down the wrong road is just as valuable as having someone guide you down the right road.
Love how the junk drawer had "most of the parts". Ya my junk drawer also has 3 random stepper motors lol. Add the CAD'ing time, 3D printing time, assembly time... Everyone without a 27k sub following would quickly realize this project isn't cost effective.
Yes, if you want to see from you, you can throw 200$, otherwise you will waste too much time on nonsense.
only the first 550$ is somehow decent, the other 350$ and below are the same as hi do it, unstable as hell.
@@radoslavkefilev312 you can just screw in some aluminum profiles.
While I agree with a lot of the criticism, I must say the engineering diligence to make this happen is impressive.
@@bzuidgeest The parts on Thingiverse were indeed designed by Hyperspace Pirate who posted this video. Really wouldn't have taken you much to check that before bashing. Plus, he's made those parts available free for everyone.
@@crabbycredenza there is more then just his parts on there and most are rather obvious. Copy paste tweak. But the main criticism is that he only counted the parts he bought extra in his price. I can build everything for a hundred dollars, I'll just grab the spares i bought earlier.
@@bzuidgeest The idea of Open Source or Open Hardware (Thingiverse) where one can take the ideas of others, build upon it and release that ... should be slapped around your cheeks left and right until you understand it too. (No violence ... just a proverb!)
@@dieSpinnt i do understand open source and open hardware, I have created both. (Nothing note worthy, but still).
What you don't understand is that my big problem is with the price claim. You cannot claim something cost a hundred dollars to make, when you leave out all the parts you bought earlier. The total price of the build is really much higher.
You are not defending open source or open hardware, your are defending the use of clickbait to attract viewers.
Also you cannot call this great engineering when most of it has been done to death, by TH-camrs that where much more honest about the price of reproducing the device shown.
You should be slapped until you understand clickbait, also a proverb naturally...
This isn't dilligent engineering, this is throwing somthing together for a video, those motors are going to last a couple months at best, they shouldn't be taking the axial loads, the rails and screws aren't covered and will fill up with dust. It's so focused on price that things that would have cost a couple of dollars extra and saved a lot in the long run have been ignored.
A lot of people complaining about the click bait title are forgetting this maker put in a lot of hrs and tech knowledge to pass this down to the rest of us. How does he get paid for this valuable time? By getting us here and by the sound of it, kicking and screaming. He baited us, google paid him for the time, and he gave us an actual valuable education. Outside of the temper tantrums, I would say win win for all involved. Ultimately, anyone that came here thinking they can build a CNC machine from scratch with $100 must be one of those people who thinks freebies are actually free. You set yourself up for disappointment. Sorry!
Every sixty seconds you spend angry, upset or mad, is a full minute of happiness you will never get back.
A great build and fantastic video; I loved how you showed each step in detail. I made a similar one for less than 1$ because I too had most of the parts on hand too ;)
Yes indeed a very good guide, it inspired me aswell to look in my drawer and since that i got one literally for free because it was a fully operating miill in there
@@Mercan1556 😂
But you still paid for that so you should still count the initial cost minus whatever you made from the rest of it.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
...thats not how that works, the fuck... if you bought the parts somewhere in the past then they weren't free, you still spent money on them; you just forgot about it
"How to build a CNC Mill for under $100 when you have over $1000 in spare parts to use"
... and also about as much in tools, like a 3D printer...
@@peka2478 And also A s-load of time...cost of 3d filament...likelihood of 3d part failure is high...
@@bobcanuso5800 and also a CAD Program for 5000$ (CATIA)
Honestly, if you're someone who does things like this on a regular basis, it's not unusual to have to kind of stuff he uses in the video lying around. I have more spare electrical components, tools, and scrap than I know what to do with. What are you even planning on using this for?
@@aaaa1111muffin Thats true, you can also take apart an old computer. I have like 10 old computers lying around with a good power supply.
I think it would really benefit you to chop down the size of this machine. Every time you half the length of a beam, you get one eighth the deflection. This would be a huge increase to the rigidity of your machine, and would be fairly simple to do. The play in the leadscrews can be dealt with by good machining practices, and your Z axis jumping may be helped by counterweighting or adding a spring to keep it preloaded vertically. Shorter tooling and keeping the spindle as close as physically possible to the rails may make this moderately capable of acceptable aluminum parts.
Yeah shorter tooling was what I was looking at. The stick out on that endmill looks like a fast food straw trying to cut aluminum lol. Still amazing tho with how hes got 0 rigidity.
Well, you can also go with different extrusions the sall rectangular profile obviously is not too stable for deflection.
I’ve really enjoyed watching this video and it was already a project I decided to make for myself. You have provided me with the details for the electronics and the fact that you have 3d printed most of the joints while still use the aluminum 2020 profiles. Thanks a lot for these, the only thing that is still unclear for me is where to buy a wild beaver with a huge appetite for the materials. Well k figure that one out eventually. Lol. In return I would like to share a bit of my knowledge about CNC milling if it’s useful enough for you anyway. I have two decades of experience with metal shop working on several different brands and quality cutting machines and for the first one on my behalf comes the tool to cut bigger surfaces at a time on your DIY milling machine I would go for a wood cutting drill for bigger holes whereof the centerpiece drill is removed. Usually this is a pieces of hardened sheet steel leaving a little gap in vertical direction on it’s socket. (Excuse me if my choice of words is a bit vague and strange. Hopefully you’ll understand what in essence I would like to explain…. If not, please reply and I will send my best translation of the issue to read.) I was born in the Netherlands, a small country of huge contradictions in everything. Insanely well build, extremely difficult to learn the language, what immediately explains why i made my apologies. At second place I would like to point out the fact that this type of machine has possibly room enough for double stepper motors that moves the y-axle and instead of the use of the ball bearings i would prefer slide bearings of high density polymer material. Anti backslash nuts would also benefit the damping of vibration, as well as the diagonal gantry support on both sides in both directions too. At last when you got no longer made any errors (of whereas you probably already have arrived) it’s majorly beneficial to make use of tungsten carbide tools and lubricants witch drastically improving rigidity and lifetime (or less wear off) for your cutting tools. Sharp tools equals less vibration and it’s the same thing by the use of surface lubricants what prevents warping and changing the molecular structure of your metal (what can loose hardness by this creation of heat, unless you are cutting in steel that hardens up from the friction between your tool and your materials) lubricants reduce the production of heating up as well, even if you only use water to lubricate.
Thanks again and kind regards,
Raymon
If you want more stability add Height to the beams. Doubling the height will also make it 8x stronger.
or he could put gussets and stiffeners? or just buy thicker material that is rail shaped lol
the cool thing about mills is that even when they are made from poor quality parts, you can use them to fabricate higher quality parts to upgrade it. mills and lathes are both tools that can be used to fabricate themselves, and i guess we can add 3d printers to that list too now.
3d printers have always been on that list. In fact, 15-20 years ago, thats how you got one. The first hobby use 3d printers were obtained by having someone else print your parts. Once you made one, you printed someone elses parts.
This is cool and clever for someone that has the bits laying around. I think I'd be further ahead to spend a little more and get a kit even if they need tweaking or whatever. Thanks for the video!
I love the entertaining illustrations that you do for your project videos.
On top of them being fascinating. Especially the super cooling series that's currently going.
I've laughed a lot from the demonstration of where to get AC parts xD
That is NOT a goofy abomination...it is the birth of the Do it yourself basic CNC mill. Translation... it is awesome. Great work. Thanks for taking the time to make this video
Great job with the CNC mill! I look forward to part two coming later
Depending on if you want to do further upgrades to this, you could probably find a way to swap out the spindle with a brushless motor and measure hall effect speed to get both automated speed changes through software and true speed feedbacks for different materials and operations when needed. Might even be able to piggyback another board onto the arduino.
The reward, lesson learned, and experience of creativity.. priceless
YT randomly dropped this in my queue and wow am I am glad. Love the humor! I worked 30yrs in precision machine tools (PCD, PCBN) and machining. Finish boring cylinder heads, contouring bearing races, L/D>15 ID drilling (cannulated bone screws)... utter mania, full-on salivation for the deity of "ultra" precision. Drives you crazy with frustration, every day. So I sure can relate to "strapping a beaver" to main drive. And 250$ CNC machine is "too much". :)
I gotta go binge watch all your vids. Well done and thanks.
It's never a waste of time to take on a project that's fun for you, and immensely beneficial if you learn along the way. I built my first 3D printer mainly because I needed one large enough for a particular prototype part. I could have maybe bought one, but could find none with the build volume I needed. It was way more work than I thought it would be. But, in the end, I got my machine, and the knowledge of how to fix or modify anything on it. Upgrades, of your own designs, is just more learning. Great video, and yes title is clickbait. Welcome to TH-cam. 🤪
It depends when you made your printer, but you could’ve gotten a Neptune 3 Max. It has a build area of 420x420x500
@@siegesouth It was 2014. Still, I think it's totally worthwhile to learn. Of course, learning can be amortized. ;)
@@ryanmacewen511 oh then then any printer you could buy was probably like 20k at that size
This is the MOST underrated channel and each upload keeps reminding me of that. I love your work ethic. Your attention to detail. It pays off...
I gotta say i admire the thought and engineering thats gone into the drsign of this, incredible work!
Thanks for sharing this. I don't think I will be trying to build one of these things, but I had fun watching the video seeing what you did.
The amount of explanation and understand of the underlying principals is just great in this video. This video is so much more useful than the typical "Look I built a CNC" video. Thanks!
really good first attempt - what you learned on this build is a great investment in your knowledge base - keep on building!
You made me feel the feels with the KSP music for your background music. Very fitting for an assembly video, good on ya!!
I have a junk drawer as well, everything I don't need or has broken, I take the good parts and keep them for future use
good to see another person recycling old parts :)
Really well done! although, i might not call it a >$100 mill, since step 1 of building it was to pull half the components from your junk drawer ;)
And step 2 was to have access to a 3d printer.
yep, very clickbait title and kind of a straight up lie.
Very much "rest of the fucking owl"
@@gweedohatsis8404 Step 3 was "develop a custom working CNC mill from scratch..."
many of these parts can be sourced from places like ebay etc for cheaper than you think. the stepper drivers he is using aren't exactly quiet but all of them probably cost $10 max i was able to find leadscrews with the brass nuts for about $8 a piece and you don't have to use extrusions, if you want the frame to be metal, you could go buy metal from a junk yard and have some basic shapes cut for the beams or you could look up a local company that sell their cutoff pieces of metal for cheap. seriously though, if you know where to look you could build something of better quality...
Great build.
Here are my thoughts, from one hobby CNC builder to another:
1. Yes, you really have to increase the rigidity of the machine. Use the machine to make sturdier brackets and thicker parts in aluminium. It is not only about the rails.
2. As you said, the play in the lead screw must be less. Either by double nuts or preferably by changing design to tooth belt instead, much better.
3. You have to calculate current and adjust the current limiter on the A4988 to as high as possible. You will get better torque from the steppers. Somehow, every single TH-cam CNC-building video creator forgets to do this.
4. Add at least homing switches. When something fails you can restart your milling from the exact same starting point, even if you had to power off in between.
5. The glitch at the end is caused by interference of the motors to the USB connection. Hard to get rid of. The best solution is to make it wireless by using a esp8266.
Good luck.
Thanks. I'm currently making upgrades for the machine that address most of your points. Rigidity and low spindle vibration are my biggest priorities
@@HyperspacePirate Yeah, cheap Chinese ER11 stuff is awful, swinging the bit around instead of spinning it on its axis. And bearings are no end of trouble. I burnt a lot of money before I finally got mine working well, and here's what I learned.
1. If Shars ever gets their straight shank ER11 chucks back in stock, buy one (and a 1/8" collet and some end mills and vernier calipers while you're at it). Their prices are the best I've found for high quality stuff.
2. Use at least four R8 bearings on it. Don't bother with 1/2"x3/4"x5/32" bearings, even expensive ones still vibrate somehow. All bearings seem to have one point in their rotation where there's a little wobble in one direction that you can feel once you have the spindle assembled. Buy a 10 pack and go through them, marking the angle of their wobble and how bad it is. Choose the four with the least wobble, and use them in pairs so when one wobbles, the other supports it. Three bearings on each end of the shaft is even better.
3. To make a spindle block, you'll need to bore bearing pockets in opposite sides of it. But this is easier said than done. The slightest bit off and the bearings will get hot and wear out quickly. I failed several times. Probably came down to the .001" backlash in my Chinese ballscrews (on the final attempt I tried compensating for it, but I think I did it in the wrong direction so then it was .003" off and that was really bad). What ended up working better was to use epoxy to cast perfectly aligned pockets. Bore one or both pockets slightly oversize, and then stick the bearings on the shank and a bit of epoxy on them and in the pocket, and push them in, allowing the shank to hold them in the correct location while the epoxy cures. Put some oil or grease on the bearings to prevent the epoxy bonding to them so you can get them out later if needed. For anyone reading who doesn't have even a crappy mill, make the block out of wood and use and a hole saw and chisel to make the rough pockets. Honduran mahogany is good, because it doesn't expand and contract much with humidity change. Mesquite is even better if you can get it.
Right thanks
the i do this for a living cnc machinist in me says nice
Running stepper motors over current makes them run like crap. If anything you're better off running under current.
Brilliant workmanship! BRAVO!
We used spring loaded ball screws which eliminated most play on our machines which did nano materials testing. Plus every new positioning move came from the same direction.
Your Arduino CNC hat *has* a spindle drive built into it and it can drive a spindle up to 48v, you didn't need the extra motor driver you built. And you could have then also controlled it through the UGS/Candle software (or whatever CNC GRBL software you're using. I have this system myself and it works fantastic.
First: SHOW us the spindle power driver on the Arduino-GBRL-Shield.
Second: You can't ... there is none!
The Logic-Level-DIGITAL(!) Z+ output can be used as PWM-signal. And that signal can be used to drive a driver stage or power amplifier. Hint: GRBL setting, $32 = 1 (Laser-mode enable, boolean)
@@dieSpinntthere is on some models of the shield
Good job! I ended up buying the $160 kit, it suited my immediate needs perfectly and I'm very happy with it. I haven't used it on aluminum, but I'm curious how it would perform with a spindle upgrade. What feeds and speeds did you use for the large gear?
0.2mm Depth of cut with 100 mm/min of travel. I was running the spindle at full which i think is around 18,000 RPM. The limiting factor isn't the force of the steppers or the power of the spindle but the fact that the cheap machines are so floppy they don't have the ridigity to cut deeper/faster even though it doesn't take that much energy
@@HyperspacePirate You know what the funny thing is? The first lil CNC I built was made out of floppy drives with those tiny stepper motors for axis movement and a Dremel as a spindle. And it worked. Primarily because it was made out of aluminum and brass, and I've spent a ton of time making it as rigid as possible and movement as effortless as possible. Remembering it now I'm actually pretty shocked it worked.
This is amazing and informative, I love that you’re transparent about the shortcomings , it helps a lot!
My only concern was the clickbait video title
Clever guy! You 3D printed the parts, and are very competent at operating CNC G- code software. Nice to watch. Thank you! ❤😊
This is really well done. I'd be super curious to see just how good a CNC you could produce using what you learned from building this one!
Jp Toto: Me too!... I have been watching every video I can find on this topic, for quite some time. It is great watching things evolve as people progress from their first design to greater things that become tools to die for! Some that come to mind are: Savvas Papasavva, iforce2d, and Nikodem Bartnik. Really looking forward to more from Hyperspace Pirate!
I've never seen this channel before, so it's got me intrigued... will he make a more expensive compromise machine? Will he make something better?
All that work and you wire it like a cave man. I'm proud of you. j/k I loved doing diy stuff but this made me want to buy one.
Inspirational! And yet, while I do acknowledge the skills and craftsmanship, the title and the approach to the idea behind it is so out there that it comes down to nothing more rather than ego and narcissism!
Looking forward to the upgrades.
The video is nice and the CNC sweet.
But the title is pretty misleading, you used almost $100+ in "scraps".
That said, you explain everything in details, so, kudos to you.
Waiting for video 2
Now use the CNC mill to make Aluminium parts to replace the plastic parts of the mill. Perfect.
Not bad for a first go. Looks pretty much like a homemade 3018 and has the same issues/limitations as the 3018's do. I used linear rails on mine (HGR20 rails with double trucks for x and y, 2x MGN12 for z) and it's a lot more rigid thanks to that. I overbuilt as I wanted a 480x480x120 build area that I can use as a laser cutter as well. The spindle mount I made works for the laser module and the spindle motor I went with. Just some stuff to think about. I'm sure mine could be improved as well, I originally built it with belts but I immediately redesigned it for use with leadscrews. I'm still playing with my design and am still using the belt driven model but may post a video of my build when I'm done. Happy tinkering.
Very well done. It just amazes me that such a small home 3d printed based machine that can perform
Thank you for sharing your home build that does sort of work on aluminium regardless of the quirks of vibration and tolerance
Please do another video of upgrades to gain better machining from this amazing machine that you have made
But please explain your feeds and speeds and the brand and type of your cutter used
It might be possible to 3D print some mounts that would hold some ball bearings against the aluminum extrusions to reduce the play. The aluminum would deform a bit over time (voice of experience) but you could adhere some steel strap to the extrusions (long combination square rules from Wholesale Tool?) as bearing guides. And yeah.... upgrading that spindle.... maybe a collet chuck extension with 3D printed bearing mounts, or aluminum, and belt drive from the existing motor. Stepped pulleys could give you higher RPM for aluminum work with the small end mills. Oh.... and if you can find em.... single flute for aluminum. 😉
Stephen Ferree: Yep, and for wood, CF and other materials that will tear out, a downcut bit which virtually eliminates fuzzies on the upper edge of the cut.
I did the version with the wild beaver, definitely works better
Epic 555 spindle control! I think I need to do this modification atleast. Thank you, very informative video!
I'm surprised some of the first cnc projects were not for parts that would improve its rigidity.
How cool would that be. Machine makes parts to improve itself.
Ah yes the old "buy a 3d printer, 3d print a 3d printer, return the 3d printer"
@@paolo69 really cool
You do realize, you could have just gone with two pins of the arduino to do the mosfet modulation, pot to Analog pin and via Gcode and have it via both, internal and external speed command of the spindle :) But EXCELLENT job :D
Nice build, good job, thank you for sharing.
Beautiful !!!
I definitely purchase this. 1982 my Cerritos college major was cnc programming. Also I was cnc milling machinist A .Why not ! wow !
Hobby CNC is pretty accessible today.
You can build this cnc for FREE if you have all the parts just magically laying around! Isn't that fantastic? Why spend money on a cnc when you already have one?!
Do you see how ridiculous this $100 claim is?
Agreed. It's a bit of click bait. Still cool, but click bait. 3D printing isn't cheap either.
@@Liofa73 its dirt cheap if you print yourself. Otherwise yes.
And it produces shitty rough parts all for free.
@@leventeszecsy6262 3d printer are expensive and tbh, you would be better off getting a metal ship to fabricate the parts out of something stronger
@@1aatlas nah you can get and ender 3 for $100-$150 and its pretty good, but yes, its better to fabricate the parts from metal
"I have $80 worth of parts in a drawer, so I'll just say I built it for $100, because, you know, clicks"
Holy crap! Beaver technique is the funniest thing I heard today. Thanks for sharing and the laughs.
Jeez... you don't take prisoners! Having voiced doubts about your new baby's rigidity, you give it a hairy great chunk of aluminium, and tell it 'Go on, work your magic, show me what you can do'... AND IT DID! You surely have to be really pleased with this; if nothing else it must whet your appetite for the future.
Thank you for a clear, informative, nicely paced, and entertaining video. Liked and Subscribed.
How to build a CNC Mill for under $100.
Step 1: Already own 95% of the materials required, along with a 3D printer and supplies for it.
Step 2: Bolt them together and add a spindle.
Congratulations! You have built a CNC Mill for under $100!
definitely not under $100, but a great video nonetheless. If I have most of the parts, I may consider making this instead of buying a more expensive CNC Mill. It would be a good starter CNC Mill that I could use in my apartment on my balcony. This may actually give me an excuse to use a wood panel on my project instead of a 3D printed plastic one.
Side Note: Still don't have a 3D printer yet, but I plan to get one in the near future anyways, so that cost is arguably negligible for me when it comes to this mill.
U created a master piece with scrap , really thanx for this great tutorial
But of course, you can use this one to make parts for the next one! Great job! Very informative!
With access to a drill press, a grinder and some steel (which I do) I would be very curious to see what kind of design upgrades could be done to increase rigidity to such a machine (or the 3018 kits out there). I believe these machines can be taken to a very nice spot for home gamers. Is that an avenue you will be looking into ? If so, let me order my kit before you get started haha.
Our maker space made a very nice CNC mill out of MDF and L-channel aluminum. If you have steel at hand, even better. You can definitely make something nice yourself if you're willing to put in the time to research, design, and fabricate.
Depends on what he wants to do with it. Gantry type machines are usually used more often for wood and sheet metal for more router style projects.
For cutting blocks of metal, a vertical mill is better, in which the tool head only moves along the Z, and is fixed to a heavy solid frame.
and the table moves along both X & Y. Stronger motors are usually used too.
The more solid the machine , the less vibration there is.
Looks great! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing your work !!
Amazing build, you're a very skilled engineer.
5 minute crafts be like “ we’re gonna make a CNC with parts in the drawer”
*proceeds to pull out stuff only someone who (probably) has that as they’re job, or at least dedicated hobby, would have*
Still a cool video.
Exactly my thoughts, like lets build this cheap cnc router for under $100, I have a $50.000+ Haas VF1 laying around we can scour parts from, and by the way, I just disassembled 100 $1000 CNC hobby machines , so lets start
I want to thank you for the amazing information you provide to your viewers. This is fascinating material. I appreciate all of your efforts. Many thanks!
Beautiful job
Suggestion: it would benefit you greatly if you reduce the length of the end mill. Especially when cutting aluminum sheet. It will greatly reduce chatter and vibration. It's always a good habit to keep end mils short to prevent breakage, chatter, bad finishes, and noise
Nice CNC mill. However, increase the flowrate on your 3D printer. The parts are lightly under extruded. Either calibrate the extrusion in the firmware or do it in the slicer software. :)
I know NOTHING about this or why the video came up as my preference. But it was both intertaining and soothing to watch. I want you on my team if there ever is a zombie apocalypse! 10/10, will watch again!
Good learning materials for a serious hobbyist!
Maravilha, muito bom, vc é o cara; gostaria de receber o passo a passo para eu montar uma copiadora igual a essa, como faço para adquirir o projeto
$74.92 in purchased parts, $500 in spare/existing parts, $400-600 in labour/time, $1000 in tools/equipment.
yup, that's under $100.
why stop there? throw in the $ 50k student fees, $ 200 k house, $ 10 k hip replacement, etc.
Very great sir really inspiring to build one
Love your sence of humour and superbe chanel.
As a cnc programmer/machinist, this hurt my soul...
The problem with 3D printed parts is that after awhile cracks start to appear and then total failure. I would suggest you use the CNC to quickly mill replacement parts for the 3D printed parts while you still can.
Duly noted. I never liked time consumption of 3d printer anyway
This was cool because that ad in the beginning got me interested in the MR1 cnc...
CNC is really powerful👍
CNC for under $100... start with $400 worth of parts...
Muito bom amigo
Please no bomb here
I enjoy this "special".
I like the "castor-spindle"
Hi. I am utterly awed by your skills. BUILDING a CNC machine! WOW!
Have you considered making a step-by-step guide so that someone who knows nothing about these things can follow in your steps?
genius at work
Video from XIX century! AMAZING!
You're skills are impressive.
thank you Brother God Bless you. your project is impressive.
Great video! I have all these bits and more so gonna build myself one!, Thank you for sharing.....
I´m impressed. For Woodmodels surely exact enough. More stability is more effort. Greetings from Germany.
Nice, you did a great job, this was a great project well dun
Ducktape a beaver, great line, and awesome video. Thank you
I love the ksp music in the background
Looks good and easy if you know what your doing 😉.
Good video thank you .🙏
Congratulations, beautiful, reliable and cheap CNC..
i like the wild beaver you found
i was also able to build a cnc mill for $100. i just used the parts of the $10,000 tormach mill i had lying around
Beautiful DC controller from a 555!
Good build. If you add a vacuum pickup to remove the dunnage chips it will help a small amount on finish whee slop is this loose and anything will misdirect your cutter feed.
Love your work.
how can a human be so intelligent i dream of this gift every day lol
Before I bought my first CNC engraver/mill, I tried designing one. The parts alone for something that performed like the $160-180 machines available at the time, would have cost me more than $200. So yeah, save money by building yourself!
You're so talented
Man! you are amazing, I do have one small CNC and I have no time to set it. now I've seen you doing this.....sh%t! what the hell I am waiting for!
Very nice and informative video. I think you did a great job. With some of the music I thought I was on an elevator!! LOL!
Honestly, I think you could easily cut aluminium plates by hand and just drill a couple of holes to replace the 3D-printer plates that you use on your mill. Then, once you have the mill all squared and constructed, you can mill out some better parts and upgrade the mill that way. Saves you a lot of time I think to start with some aluminium plate instead of printing the parts.