Love the ending. I'm recommending your excellent video to folks. In particular, from now on, whenever I get any questions on my channel about how much it costs to build an LR3 from scratch, I'm steering them over here to your build video! We'll get you some new subscribers I'd think!
I use that same router on my pantograph. I mounted it using the quick release base that you can get as a bundle since it has a nice repeatable hard stop. Makes tool changes a lot easier.
You're welcome @MrJinzakk! Good luck! Look forward to seeing your build progress on forum.v1engineering.com lot's of folks there happy to share and help out. Cheers!
Thank you Jamie! I appreciate learning about the innovative projects you get up to. Your recent double router LowRider is really impressive th-cam.com/video/m9SWaXowaww/w-d-xo.html, great value and very useful for people want to cut multiple things at the same time, and/or do cuts and carves without having to change bits. Awesome stuff!
Thank you Professor Potter! I appreciate reading about, and watching, the landscape carvings, custom controller, and other projects you've been working on, e.g. th-cam.com/video/lYjtsSwlnhk/w-d-xo.html great examples of what's possible on your channel.
Just found your channel and enjoyed the video. I'm in the initial phase of purchasing the equipment for building my own LR3 and would love to see more detailed videos of your build process.
Thank you @SHansard, glad you liked! Shared more details about my build experience/process at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa. I learnt a bunch from folks on the V1E Forum who have shared their LR3 build journeys too forum.v1engineering.com/c/lowrider/lr3/41, people are sharing what's gone well, tweaks/mods they've made, as well as challenges they encounter, people pitch in when they can to help maximize the joy and utility we're getting out of these machines. Would slower version of the machine and table assembly be helpful? Or something else? Hope that helps! Cheers!
I'm getting close to completing my LR3 and this video is very helpful. I love the full montage and the timeline. I've just watched it for the first time and have, already, gotten answers to some questions I had. Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad to hear this helped, hope your build is going well. Curious which video sections should be clearer and more helpful? Reason I ask... This build montage is mostly 50x speed, a bit fast, but didn't want this video to be too long. However, am close to releasing content that lets you zoom through at that speed or go anywhere from 1x to 200x depending on whether you want to zoom through, or slow down and zoom into a specific step. Will share link when ready. Cheers!
WOW!, I think the video might have taken just as long as the build. Very informative. Love the method of using the CNC to build a few parts. I am just printing all of the parts, and getting together other parts. I am now inspired further, with this great community support, and from a great video you have created, thanks for that hard work, David
Thank you for the kind words @DavidTaylor6870! Really like and appreciate the V1E Forum's community spirit. Look forward to seeing your build journey there. Cheers!
I'm building the lowrider 3 right now, I'm waiting on some parts but I'm done with the frame and just about to adjust the Core for smooth transit and then onto the wiring. Wish I had enough room to be able to do 4x8 sheets
Was cool to see a couple of the things I've made in the background! The reloading block for shotgun shells and the palm tree coasters. Ryan has a nice design that works well. There is always tons of support in the forums if any help is needed. Awesome hobbist machines!
Cheers Matt! Found your builds at ~1:06, rings flowing through the reloading block look great. Love the 1:15 3D Palm tree 🌴 coasters, forum.v1engineering.com/t/latest-coaster-set/33069, creative use of vinyl flooring.
This reminds me of when I built my CNC machine. Unfortunately, this video shows some things I wouldn't do for a machine this large. For instance, I don't trust 3D printed parts to last very long under the stresses a machine like this is probably going to see. And the conduit used for the rails isn't very stiff or good for high precision cuts. I designed and built my own 4x8 CNC machine over 5 years ago. It cost way more than $900, but it's pretty much all metal construction, uses shielded and modular cabling, uses drag chain for cable management, uses contact-less switches for end-stops, stainless steel guide rails, and has a modular head to use whatever kind of head you want. It uses an Arduino running Grbl and other non-proprietary electronics for controls. I wrote software for one of the Arduinos so you can see which end-stop is triggered, in case there's a mystery end-stop error. It also has a built-in RPi with keyboard and mouse to manage all the cutting. I have a 900 watt milling head on it now, but I want to upgrade it to 1500 watt, and I'm looking to put a 150-400+ watt laser tube on it. I also have plans for a moving bed, so that it can have a z-axis travel of 2.5-3 feet, instead of the 6-7 inches is has now. My other plans include a fully enclosed cabinet for it, as well as a laser cutter head, 3D printer head, plasma head, water jet head, and more. th-cam.com/video/9GM2ViLW-tc/w-d-xo.html
Cheers for sharing link to your machine. Nice machine! Impressively sturdy/stiff. Wish mine had captured rails, that'd help with downcut bits, future upgrade maybe... I appreciate the time/material cost that must have gone into design and building your CNC. For me, making a 5'x10' Sled and ~5'x3' bar height WorkBench were more time consuming than building the LowRider 3. LowRider 3 Assembly would've been even faster if I ordered those parts from V1E. However, I intentionally wanted to use this opportunity to mill the Alu XZ plates, and try printing rigid dimensionally accurate parts. Am not chasing zeros, but do get sub millimeter accuracy which was helpful for milling parts for my V1E Repeat Printer. My CNC is great for occasional use, but will not be as fast as an AVID CNC or comparable machines like yours using Nema 23s. Cheers!
Thanks for doing this video, I am in the process of printing all the parts and doing basic assembly of the units. I am still waiting of a few things to come back into stock at my local supplier, like the screen. Over Christmas I built a Paulk Smart Bench for it, then built a 300mm "wing" for it that will use the same 96mm hole centres to slot onto the bench. This way I only need to store 2 300wide x1200 long sub sections when i am not using it. You video was super interesting and I would support a vide that showed you pain points! thanks again for your effort on this.
Thank you Chris! The Paulk style smart benches seem very popular/useful. Like the idea of detachable wings, to help make more portable and faster setup. Shared more details and pain points about my build journey on the V1E forum, forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-build-video-https-youtu-be-fj7nyio8ooe/33309. Hope that helps. Will look out for your build journey on the forum, cheers!
Awesome video! I want to build one with 2M length and don’t know where to start. But your video was a great first impression what i can expect. Thank you, will come back for sure. If you have tips let me know :)
Thank you @limebulls! Shared details and learnings from my build journey at forum.v1e.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-build-video-https-youtu-be-fj7nyio8ooe/33309, other makers have shared their experience on the V1E forum too. Great resource. Hope that helps, cheers!
Many thanks for sharing this. I kinda freak out for the wiring and software, but really i think i should just order one. Looking into the lowrider for about 3 years now. Would be cool to achieve it up and running. 👋
Thank you @stevenwillems2428! Lot's of helpful wiring/software info and people over at the V1 Engineering forum, consider checking that out. Building and tinkering with the LR3 has been a fun project. Currently using the V1E LR3 CNC to help build a V1E 3D printer ( forum.v1e.com/t/mp3dp-v4-azas-build/37251 ). Let me know if releasing slower videos of the wiring steps would help. Cheers!
@@AzaB2C slower vids would definitely help, you captured the whole build so maybe just upload that one fully and add timestamps to it on the parts where the wiring goes, or the specific mounting of the sidetrays, etc. To quickjump to the parts when needed. Would be great 🙏👍👍👍🛠
You did a nice job on this video. Adding your thinking process was really nice and appreciated. I personally (interested in building one) would like to see more specifics on the parts you bought , built , modified, rebuilt, or would do differently if you needed to do it again. As you mentioned in one of your comments, there is a lot of time spent in researching this stuff. So shortcutting a little more of that with a specific “Do X or get A rather than B, and you should get Y result” video would be really interesting/appreciated. My interests being to reduce research time a little, reduce build time to be effective or at least know it’s value, understand something of the accuracy/precision obtained over all. I guess I’m asking for a review and it’s not time for that just yet. You probably are a bit fried after this current mammoth effort. Take a breath first. Though I expect you have much of the video material already. Thanks so much for sharing this. Lowrider 3 video content is still in short supply compared to lowrider 2 material.
Hello @Frederick Wood, thank you for your feedback! Great idea to share more specifics, many folks on the V1E forum share their build journey. More specifics for my LR3 Build can be found at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 You have some great questions that my write up doesn't include, I'll add some more specifics and "learnings". Feel free to reach out with questions/suggestions forum members like myself will try to help. Will try to create post build review and learnings video too. Cheers!
That was incredibly impressive. I was initially very impressed by the lowrider2, but it just was not stiff enough. It looks like the lowrider3 completely solves those problems. Your build video was extremely impressive, especially with all of the screenshots mixed in with their application.
You should post / make available the video in normal speed then we can skim over the mundane stuff and slow it down in areas where we want to see more specifics. Great video really appreciate you sharing. My next project.
Good luck with your build! While waiting for those prints to complete, I found it helpful to read through LR3 builds posted to V1E forum. Shared my ongoing project journey at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 Have fun! Cheers!
I appreciate this video! I build an MPCNC Burly, and I am almost done turning it into an oversized Primo... And I'm thinking of cutting it down to a normal size and making a Lowrider 3. I'd appreciate knowing more about how you store it out of the way when not in use, as that's current my biggest holdup. Most info about how you set it up for use, etc, would also be great.
Thank you @Aladrink! Primo seems to be a great CNC for smaller work areas (based on V1E forum comments/advice). The sled gets stored vertically, but the LR3 was left sitting around haphazardly. I didn't like that, and noticed I wasn't using LR3 as much as my printer because of setup hassle, I also don't have a great bench/assembly area currently. So, have been building a better bench that fits my needs, currently posting updates to forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309/31?u=aaronse but will hopefully share a video when it's mostly done. Looked at many many workbench videos, Ron Paulk's are great, others too. Will share my notes on the forum when they're better organized. Hope that helps, cheers!
Just bought mine and I'm about 5 days into the build. Everything is going together well and I'm working out details for the table. Deciding on a torsion or Paulk type table for a 5' x 9' build.
Best 3dpcnc video I’ve seen in a while. I too am a long time fan of teaching tech etc. I’ve been considering this project since…. Well before the “burly” (I think it was called) edition came out and not sure if the low rider was out or not but def not enough info to give a total noob like me the confidence to do it. Did my research back then…printed a few parts and then got a new job. Fast forward a few years and I’m out of work due to an injury going sort of crazy. Thanks for the video. Exactly what I needed. I got this! (If not can I contact you? ;)
Thank you @EasyCanon803! Agree, Teaching Tech's content is great, I appreciate being able to learn from Makers like Michael. There seems to be a bunch of us on forum.v1e.com that appreciate what it's like getting started on these types of projects, the chill friendly crowd there like to problem solve, and help elevate one another. Good luck with your build! See you there!
Nice, the couple of things I would do differently from the usual is, build a torsion box and for the long rails use some actual fully supported linear rails there actually not that much for the cheap Chinese one's. I do like the portability of your though
Hello @Attainable Audio! Thank you! Yeah, totally agree, strength/stiffness to weight ratio for torsion boxes are great. I only recently discovered "Ron Paulk" channel, he has bunch of interesting torsion box projects. Thanks for mentioning the fully supported linear rails, surprised how cheap some of those are, can easily source from amzn even. Lot's of v1engineering community folks have put more time/effort into making some great permanent/storable tables for their builds: forum.v1engineering.com/t/janky-cost-weight-smart-table-designs-that-would-make-macgyver-proud/33537 forum.v1engineering.com/search?q=Torsion%20box Hope that helps. Cheers!
Thanks for that, a super and very helpful video. Did you update the firmware for the end stops? I have just finished my build today and have movement as it should but finding it complicated to update the firmware for the SKR Pro board
Thank you @morturn! When starting out, I was able to get my LR3 SKR 1.2 Pro working (with dual endstops so it can self align Y axis) using firmware binaries shared at SKR Pro wiring info docs.v1e.com/electronics/skrpro/ which internally pointed me to github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases where I downloaded V1CNC_SkrPro_DualLR_2209-2.1.1.zip. Later on I started tinkering with the Marlin Firmware, copy of my tinkering are available at github.com/aaronse/marlin_2.1.1_515 Eventually killed my SKR 1.2 Pro by accident and used that as an excuse to try out Octopus, shared snapshot of the firmware I use at github.com/aaronse/marlin_2.1.1_515/tree/octopus Am using PlatformIO within VSCode to edit, compile firmware to firmware.bin, copy that to SD card to insert into the SKR (or Octopus) board. Hope that helps, consider reaching out at the V1 Engineering forum ( forum.v1e.com/ ) if you're running into issues. Good luck!
Very helpful. I'm starting assembly of my v3, sized to handle 2'x4' sheet goods since I don't have room for a 4'x8' version. I notice that for some of the end-stops you used crimped connectors and for others you soldered the wires directly to the stop terminals. Was there are particular reason for doing so?
Thank you Eric!" Yes, you're right about the connectors. Personally "Recommend Spade connectors for Y Axis end-stops, they’re relatively exposed and vulnerable to break/fail, so, make them easy to replace. Soldered and heatshrink wrapped less exposed X/Z axis end-stops." from my build notes at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 Good luck with your build! Consider sharing your journey on the forum. Cheers!
I built the MPCNC about 6 years ago?. i guess i made it too big because it was trash. if you go bigger you need steel pipe instead of conduit for rigidity, and that drives up the cost of it. due to the flexibility of Conduit the end mill was tilting out of place even on light cuts. then it would suddenly spring back and blow out a large part you didn't want cut. the lowRider is built more rigid and the way to go.
Is it possible to have the surface the cnc holds the boards be made of pegboard and then hooked up to a dust collection system so it not only pulls dust away but also adds suction to the board the cnc is working on? When I was a finisher, I used a sanding table that was a pegboard dust collector. It was also great for holding the material down while sanding.
Hello @B C! Yes, definitely possible, requires some work though. Many people are building stiff but light torsion boxes for their CNCs. Some folks have experimented/enhanced their builds to turn the voids within the torsion boxes into multi zone vacuum hold beds forum.v1engineering.com/search?q=vacuum%20hold, don't know how many folks do this, or how successful they are. While researching CNC options, I came across Phantom CNC who sell multizone vacuum beds, and saw people customize their Avid CNC to have them too. Hope that helps, cheers!
My goodness, I'm so lost, and would really like a $900 CNC but, it seems you are some what if not entirely a mechanical engineer or a computer science major. I'm a woodworker by hobby and building engineer by trade. I can follow instructions well and definitely competent. From watching your build it looks like if you don't know exactly what your doing do not even attempt to try. Would like your thoughts to a novice thanks.
Thank you @MasterMoparMan! Yeah, Tom didn't have a great experience. Personally I've had a great experience with the V1Engineering community. Claws61821, myself and others shared some comments about Tom's perspective below. Hope that helps, your thoughts and feedback are appreciated. Cheers!
Hello Joel! Great question, am working on putting some content together, soon hopefully... Shared bunch of unlisted videos on the V1E forum, but hoping to share more public videos. Currently building a 3D printer using the CNC that was created using a 3D printer :-) Can follow my progress at forum.v1e.com/t/mp3dp-v4-azas-build/37251 am using the LowRider 3 to cut Plywood, PolyCarbonate and Sheet Metal even. Will share videos on that build when done, or close to done. In the meantime: - Looked into using CNC to make holograms th-cam.com/video/yacsxg8CURY/w-d-xo.html details at forum.v1e.com/t/drag-knife-and-laser-etched-specular-holograms/36888 - Still learning how fast machine can be pushed, th-cam.com/video/frZXGyCVMkA/w-d-xo.html was created before I upgraded power from 12V to 24V, able to move much faster now. Cheers!
Hello @keeganbuilds! Sorry for slow response, we used electrochromic smart film on the door sidelight glass. Not cheap per square foot, but pretty cool :-) Can share details if interested.
Hello @ShalooNoir, used the flatest surface I had available. In this case was using my Aluminum scaffolding plank www.homedepot.com/p/Werner-8-ft-13-ft-Aluminum-Extension-Plank-with-250-lb-Load-Capacity-PA208/100658407, currently making a smaller 66"x42"x42" bench, used various flat surfaces around the house to assemble. Ideally I should have ripped the cambered lumber flat/straight on a jointer or some jig (something I did for my bench, hope to share details soon).
Hello @Justinemore! My Sled is 63"x120" (with usable cut area of 49.5"x108"), and more frequently used table is 36"x63" (with usable cut area 24"x49.5"). Can switch LR3 between Sled mode and Table Mode in minutes. Planning to post more details to forum.v1engineering.com/t/janky-cost-weight-smart-table-designs-that-would-make-macgyver-proud/33537 where other more experienced folks have shared great ideas. Hope that helps!
Absolutely! Well tuned Ender 3 can be used to print parts. CNC kitchen, teaching Tech and others really helped me. Consider printing bunch of calibration cubes and test towers first. It's super important that your prints are dimensionally accurate, not skewed, and not vertically slanted. Sorry for slow response, was visiting opensauce.live, I used 0.6mm nozzle, 0.32 layer height, 3 walls, recommended infill plus extra 10%, recommended temps per the overture PLA I used in my local climate that doesn't get crazy hot. Consider sharing your build journey on the forum. Hope that helps! Good luck with your build! Cheers!
Is the Y axis (if i'm saying that right) pro to jumping due to dust / chips. I am specifically talking about the bearing that runs on the flat surface. Isn't that a weak area of the machine? Thanks a lot.
Hello @zemlejna1! Yeah, you're right, I had that concern as well. Ended up creating and sharing a simple dust plow to help... www.printables.com/model/426176-v1e-lowrider-3-almost-pointless-pointy-dust-flaps with a good vac setup, and adding dust guards on the inside of the plates help avoid chips being a problem. Left the bearing wheel dust flap on because it's funny. Cheers!
Sure thing @@zemlejna1 Can't find the dust guard I'm thinking of at forum.v1e.com/search?expanded=true&q=dust%20guard%20order%3Alatest, there's so many builds and everyone has their own way of doing stuff. A quick cheap idea someone made was to just make lots of cuts along one side of paper/card (making 'brushes') and then wedged/stuck that paper to their spoilboard (with brushes pointing up) in a way that the gantry then easily rolls over the cut "brushes", but brushes are stiff enough to deflect/capture chips/dust. That seemed helpful. But investing in a good brush dust and Vac setup seems to be what works best for most people. My better than nothing almost pointless pointy plow worked better than I expected, but is far from perfect. Kept mainly for fun. Cheers!
Hello @Ryan! Using WAGO 221-413 connectors I use for different low/high voltage projects. The green/black DC Power Jack Connector came with the power supply from V1E store. Hope that helps!
Hey one more question. I'm cutting the front strut. I'm new to Estlcam. Did you do the front strut with just a 1/8 inch single flute bit with a less than cut through depth? if not what did you use? Did you use Hole, Engrave, carve?
Hello Ryan! Used a 135deg angled bullnose bit to carve lettering, should've used 90deg, but too impatient to await delivery. Then cut using 1/8" single flute carbide upcut bit. More details at forum.v1engineering.com/t/lr3-mod-custom-front-grill-with-name-measure-and-no-cut-markings/33867/7?u=aaronse
Hey friend. There would be both benefit and interest in releasing real time (as opposed to sped up) versions of your great content here. Even if you had to do it as a series instead of one huge build video. Count me as a vote in favor!
Hey Doug, appreciate the feedback. Agree, breaking this build into multiple videos would have been better approach. Will try out some things... Cheers!
Can anyone comment as to approximate build time for the V3? I'd be doing a 4x8. I've not built a CNC mill, but have built a few 3D printers, including the ridiculous flying gantry Voron V2.4
Hello @3DPSpro! Great question. Given what you've built before, am expecting you'll build your LR3 way faster than me, and faster than most people. Created a topic asking people how much time they spent researching, designing, sourcing, assembling, etc... at forum.v1e.com/t/lr3-how-many-hours-to-build-lr3/34307 Hope info there, and elsewhere on the V1E forum helps. Also, I've published 1x, 10x, 100x versions of the montage content to zoomtube.com/@azab2c/make/v1e-lr3, goal being so that your can Zoom in/out/through details. Please let me know if/how ZoomTube helps with your build? Cheers! For me, and others it seems, building a stable flat torsion box takes as much time as building just the LR3.
Now that you've been using it for a while, how accurate and reliable is it? I've found a number of build and "first cut" style videos for the lowrider, but not much to actually say how useful it is when it comes to making real projects. Especially not the v3, which looks like it is significantly improved from earlier versions.
Hello @numberkruncherr! Used my LowRider for a few projects now. The most accuracy demanding one has been to accurately cut square polycarbonate panels for my new V1 Engineering mostly printed and CNC'd 3D Printer. Build details and journey at forum.v1e.com/t/mp3dp-v4-azas-build/37251 Am able to get sub millimeter accuracy over several feet, and as square as I can measure with my 24"x18" laser cut framer square (which isn't super high quality...). Have been able to chamfer drilled holes using flat end mills, which speaks to the accuracy, you have to sacrifice speed though. LowRider won't perform a commercial $50K, but a well tuned one is great for DIY, and small business even based on what I'm seeing on the V1 Engineering forum. Hope that helps!
Thank you! Have been able to get sub millimeter accuracy, even managed to chamfer drill holes using a flat bit. Slower cuts for better accuracy, not the fastest machine, but great for the price and my hobbyist usage. Best precise use so far has been to help make my new V1E Printer... th-cam.com/users/shortsfEyOxtLsTOs?si=_4CZQwZm4ktznJWD Cheers!
Hello Mustapha! Just one 12V power adapter is plugged into the controller board. The board provides power to the stepper motors through the TMC2209 drivers. Got my parts from shop.v1engineering.com/collections/lowrider-parts/products/skr-pro1-2-6x-2209-drivers-tft35-e3-v3 The Makita router is separately connected to mains power outlet.. Note the SKR board can be powered by a 24V power adaptor instead of 12V, that can help give slight increase in torque. Difference isn't much according to folks on the v1engineering forum. Hope that helps!
Hey @@mustaphaben2921 , I don't, but looks like some V1engineering forum folks have worked through this already forum.v1engineering.com/search?q=Tft70. Hope that helps!
Hi, i'm currently upgrading my lowrider v2 to this v3. I have a question, before each milling, how do you set the zero of your tool in position. Personaly, i set it manually thanks to the controls in the firmware, and i unfortunately have to turn off the device to reboot it setting the zero. but when there is no more power on the stepper, with the weight of the CNC, my tool is getting down and i loose my setting. How can i do that properly ? thank you for your help
Hello @allanhotea4237! Before each milling, I move ("jog") the machine to just above my material stock being cut, then I use the Z Probe, and G92 to reset coordinates to zero. When there's no power or reset button is pressed the gantry will drop down a bit. So, I must always do Z, X, Y homing before doing the Z probe and G92. @allted shared a nice workflow video that was helpful th-cam.com/video/gtrI1GG3TVI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RYk6WBjo_TPXWQ1e&t=198 Consider posting question(s) to forum.v1e.com there's a bunch of us looking to help out each other, and learn from one another. Hope that helps, cheers!
Hello @Mustapha Ben, yes the belt tensioner parts are a tight fit to help ensure the belt does not slip out. I printed a bunch of test calibration cubes before printing LR3 parts. Printing the calibration cubes and tuning my esteps helped make dimensionally accurate parts. Hope that helps!
Hello @BKAONLINE ! Good question, I will create and share cut list on a V1E thread that other folks have also shared info about their Table setups at forum.v1engineering.com/t/janky-cost-weight-smart-table-designs-that-would-make-macgyver-proud/33537 Hope that helps!
Hello @Rafael Ceballo, yes but consider building smaller MPCNC instead of LowRider if mold size is small, see forum.v1engineering.com/search?q=Aluminum%20mold hope that helps!
Still learning, experimenting and finding the limits of my build. Will share what I learn. In the meantime, am seeing folks with comparable router pull off cutting pine 60mm/s, 13mm depth of cut per pass with 1/4" straight cut bit. forum.v1engineering.com/t/upgrade-the-motors-on-lr3/34037/20 Hope that helps, cheers!
The magic windows are very real, search for "Electrochromic film". Captured some video during the install, and wiring process. Please like this comment if you'd like to see a video with more details. Cheers!
there is in fact a reason some machines cost what they do. and if your work requires the precision of a rigid and reliable machine you may want to look into the benefits. for just fucking around doing diy stuff with a debatable productivity rate, by all means.
Very important question - how many hours did it take to build? (I understand the cost savings, but everyone has a $$/hour calculation to figure in to the final product.....)
Hello @Yehuda Newman! ~25hrs for LR3 + Huge Sled. Plus time to 3D print and mill parts instead of buying from v1e shop . More if you consider other details... Would be faster if building today using today's docs and this video :-) Great question, I wanted to know the same before starting the project. Build (and maintenance) labor hours is important info for folks running a business. Most of the ~15mins of build montage footage is 100x, so that's ~25hours right there. However, that time doesn't include hours spent researching which CNC to build, deciding on dimensions, sourcing parts and learning how to use CAM software. Total time will vary depending on people's experience and focus. Am curious about people's build time experience, gathering and understanding that feedback could lead to actions to improve, just created forum.v1engineering.com/t/lr3-how-many-hours-to-build-your-lr3/34307, hopefully feedback will trickle in over time. Current/future builders are already benefiting from the documentation improvements, and videos, others and myself are contributing/sharing. Nice benefit of an open active community backed project. For example, I observed several folks stumbling on the "Strut" step, I made edits building on jamiek's work to enable folks to download custom dimensioned Strut .SVG files in a single click from the LR3 Calculator instead of a more convoluted time consuming process. Hope that helps! Cheers!
Hello @Sam Rix, you're right. They're different machines, without a doubt, an Avid CNC is much faster than a stock LR3 build. For me, LR3's performance is great value for the price th-cam.com/video/f9R3hqmp1wE/w-d-xo.html, that and the community of wood workers, engineers and business-owners at forum.v1engineering.com made this a good project for me. If/when I depend on a CNC to put food on the table, then I might do something different. Am still learning and the community keeps remixing/improving things. Hope that helps! Cheers!
@@AzaB2C hi thank you for the reply! Yes they are not the same in speed, strength, features or support but both have a valid place in the markets they satisfy, it's just a misleading clickbait title that's a shame
Thank you for the feedback. Sorry if the video felt like misleading clickbait. My hyperbole use of 'multiverse' in the thumbnail was meant to amuse people and poke fun at "the world's greatest..." video thumbnails we often see. I mention LR3's not as fast as a commercial CNC in the video. Happy am able to cut 4'x8' sheets for less than $1k, that's pretty cool. Cheers!
I haven’t got a clue what you did. The video is too fast to work out what you are doing and whether I am able to reproduce your results. Or what issues you faced
Hello @Basil Kearsley! Thank you for your feedback, you're right, the video is really quick. I'm planning to upload a slower more in-depth content with commentary if people are interested and would find it helpful for their builds, or just interesting even? In the meantime I shared a write up of what I did, decisions made, and some of the issues faced at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 See video description for links to V1E LowRider 3 build documentation. Hope that helps, cheers!
Informative content! 👍Don't know if any services are required, such as custom PCBs, 3D printing, CNC, would love to give our support and have any cooperation with you, for bringing this kind of interesting content together! (PCBWay)
Was MP or Lowrider the one whose developer turned completely arrogant and abrasively hostile to the community after he got his five minutes of fame, and tried to declare that the entire lose concept of a DIY CNC using printed parts is his personal intellectual property and anyone else who designs and shares any kind of one owes him royalties and such?
Hello @claws61821, cheers for the question. I'm not a lawyer, but here's my (probably flawed) understanding... Lowrider and MPCNC parts are free to download and print. Anyone can build these machines and make stuff to sell for profit 🤑. I could build a bunch of these machines and use them to churn out parts to sell for a business, no royalties. However, there's a non commercial license that prevents people ripping off the design and selling it as their own. Non commercial only applies to the design, so you can still build and sell whatever you make using a v1e based machine. Non commercial Remix culture is encouraged, many community contributed improvements have been created. My own LR3 includes improvements designed by myself and others. Am happily contributing under the non commercial license knowing a for profit company cannot rip off what the community contributes to. My/others non commercial design improvements are protected from being sold by companies or the original author even. At some point, people might want to eventually sell their v1e machine, it's recommended to do that over on the v1e forum's buy/sell channel (honor system, not enforced afaik). The intention is to help avoid people building and selling tons of v1e design knockoffs for profit. There's a few approved partners that resell parts, I don't understand the details, v1e site has more info. Hope that helps, and hope folks confirm/correct my understanding, cheers!
It was MP, as featured by Thomas Sanladerer in his series. The developer went nuclear after Thomas critiques for not using metric parts and the improvement of one of the parts of the project.
And that's how a popular/mainstream figure can instantly undermine someone's life work.... On that ocasion, Thomas S. was the arrogant one, but anyway... This, and other projects from V1 Eng. were always free... the way someone can bend reality and make it look like the creator is asking for royalties, is mind bogling....
I was quite interested in the topic, but unfortunatly I had to stop watching after 1m 39 s, the fast video movements triggers nausea which could end in me vomiting. Due to this, I could never be a gamer.
Sorry to hear this @Santo Pino. I will post a link here if I end up uploading footage that is not so fast. In the meantime, Videos from other V1E community members can be found at forum.v1engineering.com/t/videos-of-lr3s/32857 . Hope that helps!
@@santopino2546 a write up of my build journey is available on forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 Many V1E Forum members have shared write ups of their builds too, see forum.v1engineering.com/c/lowrider/lr3/41 hope that helps. Cheers!
![🔴 [TRỰC TIẾP] U20 VIỆT NAM - U20 THÁI LAN | Cúp VTV9 - Bình Điền 2024 | JET STUDIO](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HxN2G6YpB-U/mqdefault.jpg)
So interested in seeing more of your work, keep it up!
Awesome build, thanks for sharing!
Cool, happy to see this great video!😀
A really well put together video and very informative. Thank you for taking the time to do it.
Great video, I look forward to your review of how well it performs
Awesome job and fantastic video! Thanks for the shout-out!
I've watched this a dozen times while printing my parts can't wait to start throwing chips! Thanks for the video!
Very impressive and great video!
greaat!! waiting for next part. a want to see this machine making its job..
made the MPCNC about 5 years ago. I need a shop before I build the low rider but i'm glad to see someone build the new design, keep us updated!
You took as much time on the video as the build, thanks so much for that effort - congrats, its awesome!
Love the ending. I'm recommending your excellent video to folks. In particular, from now on, whenever I get any questions on my channel about how much it costs to build an LR3 from scratch, I'm steering them over here to your build video! We'll get you some new subscribers I'd think!
I use that same router on my pantograph. I mounted it using the quick release base that you can get as a bundle since it has a nice repeatable hard stop. Makes tool changes a lot easier.
Ive had the parts for mo ths in a box. Pulling the trigger today to get started!
I'm planning to build this. Thanks for this video.
You're welcome @MrJinzakk! Good luck! Look forward to seeing your build progress on forum.v1engineering.com lot's of folks there happy to share and help out. Cheers!
Somehow I missed this when it was originally posted. Nice video!
Thank you Jamie! I appreciate learning about the innovative projects you get up to. Your recent double router LowRider is really impressive th-cam.com/video/m9SWaXowaww/w-d-xo.html, great value and very useful for people want to cut multiple things at the same time, and/or do cuts and carves without having to change bits. Awesome stuff!
Nice video! Just a note, I found using a set of pretty cheap reamers worked even better than drill bits for getting the hole sizes perfect.
Great build, great video!! I love the rainbow core and control box! I look forward to seeing what you make with it on the V1 forum and on TH-cam.
Thank you Professor Potter! I appreciate reading about, and watching, the landscape carvings, custom controller, and other projects you've been working on, e.g. th-cam.com/video/lYjtsSwlnhk/w-d-xo.html great examples of what's possible on your channel.
Just found your channel and enjoyed the video. I'm in the initial phase of purchasing the equipment for building my own LR3 and would love to see more detailed videos of your build process.
Thank you @SHansard, glad you liked! Shared more details about my build experience/process at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa. I learnt a bunch from folks on the V1E Forum who have shared their LR3 build journeys too forum.v1engineering.com/c/lowrider/lr3/41, people are sharing what's gone well, tweaks/mods they've made, as well as challenges they encounter, people pitch in when they can to help maximize the joy and utility we're getting out of these machines.
Would slower version of the machine and table assembly be helpful? Or something else?
Hope that helps! Cheers!
I'm getting close to completing my LR3 and this video is very helpful. I love the full montage and the timeline. I've just watched it for the first time and have, already, gotten answers to some questions I had. Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad to hear this helped, hope your build is going well. Curious which video sections should be clearer and more helpful? Reason I ask... This build montage is mostly 50x speed, a bit fast, but didn't want this video to be too long. However, am close to releasing content that lets you zoom through at that speed or go anywhere from 1x to 200x depending on whether you want to zoom through, or slow down and zoom into a specific step. Will share link when ready. Cheers!
amazing!!
WOW!, I think the video might have taken just as long as the build. Very informative. Love the method of using the CNC to build a few parts. I am just printing all of the parts, and getting together other parts. I am now inspired further, with this great community support, and from a great video you have created, thanks for that hard work, David
Thank you for the kind words @DavidTaylor6870! Really like and appreciate the V1E Forum's community spirit. Look forward to seeing your build journey there. Cheers!
I'm building the lowrider 3 right now, I'm waiting on some parts but I'm done with the frame and just about to adjust the Core for smooth transit and then onto the wiring. Wish I had enough room to be able to do 4x8 sheets
Perfection!!!
Yeah, you're right, the Lowrider 3 is a great design. Hope you liked the video too!
Was cool to see a couple of the things I've made in the background! The reloading block for shotgun shells and the palm tree coasters. Ryan has a nice design that works well. There is always tons of support in the forums if any help is needed. Awesome hobbist machines!
Cheers Matt! Found your builds at ~1:06, rings flowing through the reloading block look great. Love the 1:15 3D Palm tree 🌴 coasters, forum.v1engineering.com/t/latest-coaster-set/33069, creative use of vinyl flooring.
This reminds me of when I built my CNC machine. Unfortunately, this video shows some things I wouldn't do for a machine this large. For instance, I don't trust 3D printed parts to last very long under the stresses a machine like this is probably going to see. And the conduit used for the rails isn't very stiff or good for high precision cuts.
I designed and built my own 4x8 CNC machine over 5 years ago. It cost way more than $900, but it's pretty much all metal construction, uses shielded and modular cabling, uses drag chain for cable management, uses contact-less switches for end-stops, stainless steel guide rails, and has a modular head to use whatever kind of head you want. It uses an Arduino running Grbl and other non-proprietary electronics for controls. I wrote software for one of the Arduinos so you can see which end-stop is triggered, in case there's a mystery end-stop error. It also has a built-in RPi with keyboard and mouse to manage all the cutting.
I have a 900 watt milling head on it now, but I want to upgrade it to 1500 watt, and I'm looking to put a 150-400+ watt laser tube on it.
I also have plans for a moving bed, so that it can have a z-axis travel of 2.5-3 feet, instead of the 6-7 inches is has now. My other plans include a fully enclosed cabinet for it, as well as a laser cutter head, 3D printer head, plasma head, water jet head, and more.
th-cam.com/video/9GM2ViLW-tc/w-d-xo.html
Cheers for sharing link to your machine. Nice machine! Impressively sturdy/stiff. Wish mine had captured rails, that'd help with downcut bits, future upgrade maybe...
I appreciate the time/material cost that must have gone into design and building your CNC. For me, making a 5'x10' Sled and ~5'x3' bar height WorkBench were more time consuming than building the LowRider 3. LowRider 3 Assembly would've been even faster if I ordered those parts from V1E. However, I intentionally wanted to use this opportunity to mill the Alu XZ plates, and try printing rigid dimensionally accurate parts. Am not chasing zeros, but do get sub millimeter accuracy which was helpful for milling parts for my V1E Repeat Printer.
My CNC is great for occasional use, but will not be as fast as an AVID CNC or comparable machines like yours using Nema 23s.
Cheers!
Thanks for doing this video, I am in the process of printing all the parts and doing basic assembly of the units. I am still waiting of a few things to come back into stock at my local supplier, like the screen. Over Christmas I built a Paulk Smart Bench for it, then built a 300mm "wing" for it that will use the same 96mm hole centres to slot onto the bench. This way I only need to store 2 300wide x1200 long sub sections when i am not using it.
You video was super interesting and I would support a vide that showed you pain points!
thanks again for your effort on this.
Thank you Chris! The Paulk style smart benches seem very popular/useful. Like the idea of detachable wings, to help make more portable and faster setup. Shared more details and pain points about my build journey on the V1E forum, forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-build-video-https-youtu-be-fj7nyio8ooe/33309. Hope that helps. Will look out for your build journey on the forum, cheers!
Absolutely awesome vid! It’d be super helpful if you’d consider slowing the vids down so that they’d help highlight the steps better
Awesome video! I want to build one with 2M length and don’t know where to start. But your video was a great first impression what i can expect. Thank you, will come back for sure. If you have tips let me know :)
Thank you @limebulls! Shared details and learnings from my build journey at forum.v1e.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-build-video-https-youtu-be-fj7nyio8ooe/33309, other makers have shared their experience on the V1E forum too. Great resource. Hope that helps, cheers!
Many thanks for sharing this. I kinda freak out for the wiring and software, but really i think i should just order one. Looking into the lowrider for about 3 years now. Would be cool to achieve it up and running. 👋
Thank you @stevenwillems2428! Lot's of helpful wiring/software info and people over at the V1 Engineering forum, consider checking that out. Building and tinkering with the LR3 has been a fun project. Currently using the V1E LR3 CNC to help build a V1E 3D printer ( forum.v1e.com/t/mp3dp-v4-azas-build/37251 ). Let me know if releasing slower videos of the wiring steps would help. Cheers!
@@AzaB2C slower vids would definitely help, you captured the whole build so maybe just upload that one fully and add timestamps to it on the parts where the wiring goes, or the specific mounting of the sidetrays, etc. To quickjump to the parts when needed. Would be great 🙏👍👍👍🛠
You did a nice job on this video.
Adding your thinking process was really nice and appreciated.
I personally (interested in building one) would like to see more specifics on the parts you bought , built , modified, rebuilt, or would do differently if you needed to do it again. As you mentioned in one of your comments, there is a lot of time spent in researching this stuff. So shortcutting a little more of that with a specific “Do X or get A rather than B, and you should get Y result” video would be really interesting/appreciated.
My interests being to reduce research time a little, reduce build time to be effective or at least know it’s value, understand something of the accuracy/precision obtained over all. I guess I’m asking for a review and it’s not time for that just yet.
You probably are a bit fried after this current mammoth effort. Take a breath first. Though I expect you have much of the video material already.
Thanks so much for sharing this. Lowrider 3 video content is still in short supply compared to lowrider 2 material.
Hello @Frederick Wood, thank you for your feedback! Great idea to share more specifics, many folks on the V1E forum share their build journey. More specifics for my LR3 Build can be found at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 You have some great questions that my write up doesn't include, I'll add some more specifics and "learnings". Feel free to reach out with questions/suggestions forum members like myself will try to help. Will try to create post build review and learnings video too. Cheers!
That was incredibly impressive. I was initially very impressed by the lowrider2, but it just was not stiff enough. It looks like the lowrider3 completely solves those problems.
Your build video was extremely impressive, especially with all of the screenshots mixed in with their application.
Same here.
You should post / make available the video in normal speed then we can skim over the mundane stuff and slow it down in areas where we want to see more specifics. Great video really appreciate you sharing. My next project.
Finally! Just got your feed!
Sub'd and 👍liked!
Yes produce more detailed and slower vid 👌
Thank you @spicer41282! Let me know if any specific sections would be helpful to dig into, I will try to prioritize those sections first. Cheers!
I’m going to make this,I just started the 3d printing
Good luck with your build! While waiting for those prints to complete, I found it helpful to read through LR3 builds posted to V1E forum. Shared my ongoing project journey at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 Have fun! Cheers!
I appreciate this video! I build an MPCNC Burly, and I am almost done turning it into an oversized Primo... And I'm thinking of cutting it down to a normal size and making a Lowrider 3.
I'd appreciate knowing more about how you store it out of the way when not in use, as that's current my biggest holdup. Most info about how you set it up for use, etc, would also be great.
Thank you @Aladrink! Primo seems to be a great CNC for smaller work areas (based on V1E forum comments/advice).
The sled gets stored vertically, but the LR3 was left sitting around haphazardly. I didn't like that, and noticed I wasn't using LR3 as much as my printer because of setup hassle, I also don't have a great bench/assembly area currently.
So, have been building a better bench that fits my needs, currently posting updates to forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309/31?u=aaronse but will hopefully share a video when it's mostly done. Looked at many many workbench videos, Ron Paulk's are great, others too. Will share my notes on the forum when they're better organized.
Hope that helps, cheers!
Nice
Nice probe and Alu milling videos on your channel, impressive machine! Cheers!
Just bought mine and I'm about 5 days into the build. Everything is going together well and I'm working out details for the table. Deciding on a torsion or Paulk type table for a 5' x 9' build.
What did you decide to end up doing?
Best 3dpcnc video I’ve seen in a while. I too am a long time fan of teaching tech etc. I’ve been considering this project since…. Well before the “burly” (I think it was called) edition came out and not sure if the low rider was out or not but def not enough info to give a total noob like me the confidence to do it.
Did my research back then…printed a few parts and then got a new job.
Fast forward a few years and I’m out of work due to an injury going sort of crazy.
Thanks for the video. Exactly what I needed. I got this! (If not can I contact you? ;)
Thank you @EasyCanon803! Agree, Teaching Tech's content is great, I appreciate being able to learn from Makers like Michael. There seems to be a bunch of us on forum.v1e.com that appreciate what it's like getting started on these types of projects, the chill friendly crowd there like to problem solve, and help elevate one another. Good luck with your build! See you there!
Nice, the couple of things I would do differently from the usual is, build a torsion box and for the long rails use some actual fully supported linear rails there actually not that much for the cheap Chinese one's.
I do like the portability of your though
Hello @Attainable Audio! Thank you! Yeah, totally agree, strength/stiffness to weight ratio for torsion boxes are great. I only recently discovered "Ron Paulk" channel, he has bunch of interesting torsion box projects. Thanks for mentioning the fully supported linear rails, surprised how cheap some of those are, can easily source from amzn even.
Lot's of v1engineering community folks have put more time/effort into making some great permanent/storable tables for their builds:
forum.v1engineering.com/t/janky-cost-weight-smart-table-designs-that-would-make-macgyver-proud/33537
forum.v1engineering.com/search?q=Torsion%20box
Hope that helps. Cheers!
Thanks for that, a super and very helpful video. Did you update the firmware for the end stops? I have just finished my build today and have movement as it should but finding it complicated to update the firmware for the SKR Pro board
Thank you @morturn! When starting out, I was able to get my LR3 SKR 1.2 Pro working (with dual endstops so it can self align Y axis) using firmware binaries shared at SKR Pro wiring info docs.v1e.com/electronics/skrpro/ which internally pointed me to github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases where I downloaded V1CNC_SkrPro_DualLR_2209-2.1.1.zip.
Later on I started tinkering with the Marlin Firmware, copy of my tinkering are available at github.com/aaronse/marlin_2.1.1_515
Eventually killed my SKR 1.2 Pro by accident and used that as an excuse to try out Octopus, shared snapshot of the firmware I use at github.com/aaronse/marlin_2.1.1_515/tree/octopus
Am using PlatformIO within VSCode to edit, compile firmware to firmware.bin, copy that to SD card to insert into the SKR (or Octopus) board.
Hope that helps, consider reaching out at the V1 Engineering forum ( forum.v1e.com/ ) if you're running into issues. Good luck!
@@AzaB2C Thank you thats most helpful. I am up and running now.
Very helpful. I'm starting assembly of my v3, sized to handle 2'x4' sheet goods since I don't have room for a 4'x8' version. I notice that for some of the end-stops you used crimped connectors and for others you soldered the wires directly to the stop terminals. Was there are particular reason for doing so?
Thank you Eric!" Yes, you're right about the connectors. Personally "Recommend Spade connectors for Y Axis end-stops, they’re relatively exposed and vulnerable to break/fail, so, make them easy to replace. Soldered and heatshrink wrapped less exposed X/Z axis end-stops." from my build notes at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 Good luck with your build! Consider sharing your journey on the forum. Cheers!
I built the MPCNC about 6 years ago?. i guess i made it too big because it was trash.
if you go bigger you need steel pipe instead of conduit for rigidity, and that drives up the cost of it.
due to the flexibility of Conduit the end mill was tilting out of place even on light cuts. then it would suddenly spring back and blow out a large part you didn't want cut.
the lowRider is built more rigid and the way to go.
Is it possible to have the surface the cnc holds the boards be made of pegboard and then hooked up to a dust collection system so it not only pulls dust away but also adds suction to the board the cnc is working on? When I was a finisher, I used a sanding table that was a pegboard dust collector. It was also great for holding the material down while sanding.
Hello @B C! Yes, definitely possible, requires some work though. Many people are building stiff but light torsion boxes for their CNCs. Some folks have experimented/enhanced their builds to turn the voids within the torsion boxes into multi zone vacuum hold beds forum.v1engineering.com/search?q=vacuum%20hold, don't know how many folks do this, or how successful they are. While researching CNC options, I came across Phantom CNC who sell multizone vacuum beds, and saw people customize their Avid CNC to have them too. Hope that helps, cheers!
My goodness, I'm so lost, and would really like a $900 CNC but, it seems you are some what if not entirely a mechanical engineer or a computer science major. I'm a woodworker by hobby and building engineer by trade. I can follow instructions well and definitely competent. From watching your build it looks like if you don't know exactly what your doing do not even attempt to try. Would like your thoughts to a novice thanks.
Nice video but did you see Tom video on the mpcnc?
Thank you @MasterMoparMan! Yeah, Tom didn't have a great experience. Personally I've had a great experience with the V1Engineering community. Claws61821, myself and others shared some comments about Tom's perspective below. Hope that helps, your thoughts and feedback are appreciated. Cheers!
Hey any videos with the work u do on it??
Hello Joel! Great question, am working on putting some content together, soon hopefully... Shared bunch of unlisted videos on the V1E forum, but hoping to share more public videos. Currently building a 3D printer using the CNC that was created using a 3D printer :-) Can follow my progress at forum.v1e.com/t/mp3dp-v4-azas-build/37251 am using the LowRider 3 to cut Plywood, PolyCarbonate and Sheet Metal even. Will share videos on that build when done, or close to done.
In the meantime:
- Looked into using CNC to make holograms th-cam.com/video/yacsxg8CURY/w-d-xo.html details at forum.v1e.com/t/drag-knife-and-laser-etched-specular-holograms/36888
- Still learning how fast machine can be pushed, th-cam.com/video/frZXGyCVMkA/w-d-xo.html was created before I upgraded power from 12V to 24V, able to move much faster now.
Cheers!
@@AzaB2C thanks bro 😁 and thank you for the great work and informative content keep it up!
im sorry what was that window switch thing!? haha so sick
Hello @keeganbuilds! Sorry for slow response, we used electrochromic smart film on the door sidelight glass. Not cheap per square foot, but pretty cool :-) Can share details if interested.
@@AzaB2C Would love some details if possible.
At 15:40, what is the expandable surface tool you are using to build your table on?
Hello @ShalooNoir, used the flatest surface I had available. In this case was using my Aluminum scaffolding plank www.homedepot.com/p/Werner-8-ft-13-ft-Aluminum-Extension-Plank-with-250-lb-Load-Capacity-PA208/100658407, currently making a smaller 66"x42"x42" bench, used various flat surfaces around the house to assemble. Ideally I should have ripped the cambered lumber flat/straight on a jointer or some jig (something I did for my bench, hope to share details soon).
What Table Space, do use yours on mentioning fold away
Hello @Justinemore! My Sled is 63"x120" (with usable cut area of 49.5"x108"), and more frequently used table is 36"x63" (with usable cut area 24"x49.5"). Can switch LR3 between Sled mode and Table Mode in minutes. Planning to post more details to forum.v1engineering.com/t/janky-cost-weight-smart-table-designs-that-would-make-macgyver-proud/33537 where other more experienced folks have shared great ideas. Hope that helps!
would an ender 3 be big enough (or decent enough) to print all the parts for this?
Absolutely! Well tuned Ender 3 can be used to print parts. CNC kitchen, teaching Tech and others really helped me. Consider printing bunch of calibration cubes and test towers first. It's super important that your prints are dimensionally accurate, not skewed, and not vertically slanted. Sorry for slow response, was visiting opensauce.live, I used 0.6mm nozzle, 0.32 layer height, 3 walls, recommended infill plus extra 10%, recommended temps per the overture PLA I used in my local climate that doesn't get crazy hot. Consider sharing your build journey on the forum. Hope that helps! Good luck with your build! Cheers!
Is the Y axis (if i'm saying that right) pro to jumping due to dust / chips. I am specifically talking about the bearing that runs on the flat surface. Isn't that a weak area of the machine? Thanks a lot.
Hello @zemlejna1! Yeah, you're right, I had that concern as well. Ended up creating and sharing a simple dust plow to help... www.printables.com/model/426176-v1e-lowrider-3-almost-pointless-pointy-dust-flaps with a good vac setup, and adding dust guards on the inside of the plates help avoid chips being a problem. Left the bearing wheel dust flap on because it's funny. Cheers!
@@AzaB2C Thanks a lot for the answer. Would you please tell me what you mean by "dust guards on the inside of the plates". And did the plow work? :)
Sure thing @@zemlejna1
Can't find the dust guard I'm thinking of at forum.v1e.com/search?expanded=true&q=dust%20guard%20order%3Alatest, there's so many builds and everyone has their own way of doing stuff. A quick cheap idea someone made was to just make lots of cuts along one side of paper/card (making 'brushes') and then wedged/stuck that paper to their spoilboard (with brushes pointing up) in a way that the gantry then easily rolls over the cut "brushes", but brushes are stiff enough to deflect/capture chips/dust. That seemed helpful. But investing in a good brush dust and Vac setup seems to be what works best for most people.
My better than nothing almost pointless pointy plow worked better than I expected, but is far from perfect. Kept mainly for fun. Cheers!
Okay, so you mainly meant the guard right at the milling router bit, helping suction. I understand now. Thank you@@AzaB2C
What are those parts you use for wiring at 14:27? the orange/white bricks and the black/green connector?
Hello @Ryan! Using WAGO 221-413 connectors I use for different low/high voltage projects. The green/black DC Power Jack Connector came with the power supply from V1E store. Hope that helps!
@@AzaB2C my power supply did not come with one, just ordered one ugh
@@AzaB2C thanks on the Wago connectors, I just picked some up locally.
Hey one more question. I'm cutting the front strut. I'm new to Estlcam. Did you do the front strut with just a 1/8 inch single flute bit with a less than cut through depth? if not what did you use? Did you use Hole, Engrave, carve?
Hello Ryan! Used a 135deg angled bullnose bit to carve lettering, should've used 90deg, but too impatient to await delivery. Then cut using 1/8" single flute carbide upcut bit. More details at forum.v1engineering.com/t/lr3-mod-custom-front-grill-with-name-measure-and-no-cut-markings/33867/7?u=aaronse
Hey friend. There would be both benefit and interest in releasing real time (as opposed to sped up) versions of your great content here. Even if you had to do it as a series instead of one huge build video. Count me as a vote in favor!
Hey Doug, appreciate the feedback. Agree, breaking this build into multiple videos would have been better approach. Will try out some things... Cheers!
@@AzaB2C Both approaches are greatly valid although for different reasons.
Can anyone comment as to approximate build time for the V3? I'd be doing a 4x8. I've not built a CNC mill, but have built a few 3D printers, including the ridiculous flying gantry Voron V2.4
Hello @3DPSpro! Great question. Given what you've built before, am expecting you'll build your LR3 way faster than me, and faster than most people. Created a topic asking people how much time they spent researching, designing, sourcing, assembling, etc... at forum.v1e.com/t/lr3-how-many-hours-to-build-lr3/34307 Hope info there, and elsewhere on the V1E forum helps.
Also, I've published 1x, 10x, 100x versions of the montage content to zoomtube.com/@azab2c/make/v1e-lr3, goal being so that your can Zoom in/out/through details. Please let me know if/how ZoomTube helps with your build? Cheers!
For me, and others it seems, building a stable flat torsion box takes as much time as building just the LR3.
Now that you've been using it for a while, how accurate and reliable is it? I've found a number of build and "first cut" style videos for the lowrider, but not much to actually say how useful it is when it comes to making real projects. Especially not the v3, which looks like it is significantly improved from earlier versions.
Hello @numberkruncherr! Used my LowRider for a few projects now. The most accuracy demanding one has been to accurately cut square polycarbonate panels for my new V1 Engineering mostly printed and CNC'd 3D Printer. Build details and journey at forum.v1e.com/t/mp3dp-v4-azas-build/37251 Am able to get sub millimeter accuracy over several feet, and as square as I can measure with my 24"x18" laser cut framer square (which isn't super high quality...). Have been able to chamfer drilled holes using flat end mills, which speaks to the accuracy, you have to sacrifice speed though. LowRider won't perform a commercial $50K, but a well tuned one is great for DIY, and small business even based on what I'm seeing on the V1 Engineering forum. Hope that helps!
Nice Job! What is the accuracy of this machine?
Thank you! Have been able to get sub millimeter accuracy, even managed to chamfer drill holes using a flat bit. Slower cuts for better accuracy, not the fastest machine, but great for the price and my hobbyist usage. Best precise use so far has been to help make my new V1E Printer... th-cam.com/users/shortsfEyOxtLsTOs?si=_4CZQwZm4ktznJWD
Cheers!
Are you using different voltages for motors and board? or only 12 volts
Hello Mustapha! Just one 12V power adapter is plugged into the controller board. The board provides power to the stepper motors through the TMC2209 drivers. Got my parts from shop.v1engineering.com/collections/lowrider-parts/products/skr-pro1-2-6x-2209-drivers-tft35-e3-v3
The Makita router is separately connected to mains power outlet..
Note the SKR board can be powered by a 24V power adaptor instead of 12V, that can help give slight increase in torque. Difference isn't much according to folks on the v1engineering forum. Hope that helps!
@@AzaB2C thank you. Another question if possible do you have any idea how to make TFT70 working with VEengineering firmware
Hey @@mustaphaben2921 , I don't, but looks like some V1engineering forum folks have worked through this already forum.v1engineering.com/search?q=Tft70. Hope that helps!
Hi, i'm currently upgrading my lowrider v2 to this v3. I have a question, before each milling, how do you set the zero of your tool in position. Personaly, i set it manually thanks to the controls in the firmware, and i unfortunately have to turn off the device to reboot it setting the zero. but when there is no more power on the stepper, with the weight of the CNC, my tool is getting down and i loose my setting. How can i do that properly ? thank you for your help
Hello @allanhotea4237! Before each milling, I move ("jog") the machine to just above my material stock being cut, then I use the Z Probe, and G92 to reset coordinates to zero.
When there's no power or reset button is pressed the gantry will drop down a bit. So, I must always do Z, X, Y homing before doing the Z probe and G92.
@allted shared a nice workflow video that was helpful th-cam.com/video/gtrI1GG3TVI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RYk6WBjo_TPXWQ1e&t=198
Consider posting question(s) to forum.v1e.com there's a bunch of us looking to help out each other, and learn from one another. Hope that helps, cheers!
Did you forced when you insert the belt into X tension especially when you make it enter back I am having hard time doing it.
Hello @Mustapha Ben, yes the belt tensioner parts are a tight fit to help ensure the belt does not slip out. I printed a bunch of test calibration cubes before printing LR3 parts. Printing the calibration cubes and tuning my esteps helped make dimensionally accurate parts. Hope that helps!
@@AzaB2C Thanks I'll try again tomorrow
@@mustaphaben2921 good luck! Already seen forum.v1engineering.com? lots of helpful info and people there. Cheers!
@@AzaB2C Yes I know thanks anyways
do you have a cut list for tabke
Hello @BKAONLINE ! Good question, I will create and share cut list on a V1E thread that other folks have also shared info about their Table setups at forum.v1engineering.com/t/janky-cost-weight-smart-table-designs-that-would-make-macgyver-proud/33537 Hope that helps!
Здравствуйте! Подскажите, где можно найти чертежи данного станка и документы по сборки?
Привет! Чертежи этой машины и сборки бесплатны по адресу docs.v1engineering.com/lowrider. Удачи!
@@AzaB2C большое спасибо!
Can it make aluminum molds for plastic injection ?
Hello @Rafael Ceballo, yes but consider building smaller MPCNC instead of LowRider if mold size is small, see forum.v1engineering.com/search?q=Aluminum%20mold hope that helps!
@@AzaB2C will look I to it. Thanks a bunch!
Any update on this? :)
Will try to upload something soon...
Review so far? Rigid enough for woodwork?
Still learning, experimenting and finding the limits of my build. Will share what I learn. In the meantime, am seeing folks with comparable router pull off cutting pine 60mm/s, 13mm depth of cut per pass with 1/4" straight cut bit. forum.v1engineering.com/t/upgrade-the-motors-on-lr3/34037/20 Hope that helps, cheers!
@@AzaB2C cheers,thanks…looking forward for your future vids
Please tell me those windows are real. 5:40
The magic windows are very real, search for "Electrochromic film". Captured some video during the install, and wiring process. Please like this comment if you'd like to see a video with more details. Cheers!
there is in fact a reason some machines cost what they do. and if your work requires the precision of a rigid and reliable machine you may want to look into the benefits. for just fucking around doing diy stuff with a debatable productivity rate, by all means.
Very important question - how many hours did it take to build? (I understand the cost savings, but everyone has a $$/hour calculation to figure in to the final product.....)
Hello @Yehuda Newman! ~25hrs for LR3 + Huge Sled. Plus time to 3D print and mill parts instead of buying from v1e shop . More if you consider other details... Would be faster if building today using today's docs and this video :-)
Great question, I wanted to know the same before starting the project. Build (and maintenance) labor hours is important info for folks running a business.
Most of the ~15mins of build montage footage is 100x, so that's ~25hours right there. However, that time doesn't include hours spent researching which CNC to build, deciding on dimensions, sourcing parts and learning how to use CAM software. Total time will vary depending on people's experience and focus. Am curious about people's build time experience, gathering and understanding that feedback could lead to actions to improve, just created forum.v1engineering.com/t/lr3-how-many-hours-to-build-your-lr3/34307, hopefully feedback will trickle in over time.
Current/future builders are already benefiting from the documentation improvements, and videos, others and myself are contributing/sharing. Nice benefit of an open active community backed project. For example, I observed several folks stumbling on the "Strut" step, I made edits building on jamiek's work to enable folks to download custom dimensioned Strut .SVG files in a single click from the LR3 Calculator instead of a more convoluted time consuming process.
Hope that helps! Cheers!
How is this anywhere near the same as an avid CNC?
Hello @Sam Rix, you're right. They're different machines, without a doubt, an Avid CNC is much faster than a stock LR3 build. For me, LR3's performance is great value for the price th-cam.com/video/f9R3hqmp1wE/w-d-xo.html, that and the community of wood workers, engineers and business-owners at forum.v1engineering.com made this a good project for me. If/when I depend on a CNC to put food on the table, then I might do something different. Am still learning and the community keeps remixing/improving things. Hope that helps! Cheers!
@@AzaB2C hi thank you for the reply! Yes they are not the same in speed, strength, features or support but both have a valid place in the markets they satisfy, it's just a misleading clickbait title that's a shame
Thank you for the feedback. Sorry if the video felt like misleading clickbait. My hyperbole use of 'multiverse' in the thumbnail was meant to amuse people and poke fun at "the world's greatest..." video thumbnails we often see.
I mention LR3's not as fast as a commercial CNC in the video. Happy am able to cut 4'x8' sheets for less than $1k, that's pretty cool. Cheers!
I haven’t got a clue what you did. The video is too fast to work out what you are doing and whether I am able to reproduce your results. Or what issues you faced
Hello @Basil Kearsley! Thank you for your feedback, you're right, the video is really quick. I'm planning to upload a slower more in-depth content with commentary if people are interested and would find it helpful for their builds, or just interesting even? In the meantime I shared a write up of what I did, decisions made, and some of the issues faced at forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 See video description for links to V1E LowRider 3 build documentation. Hope that helps, cheers!
Informative content! 👍Don't know if any services are required, such as custom PCBs, 3D printing, CNC, would love to give our support and have any cooperation with you, for bringing this kind of interesting content together! (PCBWay)
Thank you @Zoey Zhang, happy that you liked! I am working on some custom PCB projects. What's a good way to contact? Cheers!
Was MP or Lowrider the one whose developer turned completely arrogant and abrasively hostile to the community after he got his five minutes of fame, and tried to declare that the entire lose concept of a DIY CNC using printed parts is his personal intellectual property and anyone else who designs and shares any kind of one owes him royalties and such?
Hello @claws61821, cheers for the question. I'm not a lawyer, but here's my (probably flawed) understanding... Lowrider and MPCNC parts are free to download and print. Anyone can build these machines and make stuff to sell for profit 🤑. I could build a bunch of these machines and use them to churn out parts to sell for a business, no royalties. However, there's a non commercial license that prevents people ripping off the design and selling it as their own. Non commercial only applies to the design, so you can still build and sell whatever you make using a v1e based machine. Non commercial Remix culture is encouraged, many community contributed improvements have been created. My own LR3 includes improvements designed by myself and others. Am happily contributing under the non commercial license knowing a for profit company cannot rip off what the community contributes to. My/others non commercial design improvements are protected from being sold by companies or the original author even.
At some point, people might want to eventually sell their v1e machine, it's recommended to do that over on the v1e forum's buy/sell channel (honor system, not enforced afaik). The intention is to help avoid people building and selling tons of v1e design knockoffs for profit. There's a few approved partners that resell parts, I don't understand the details, v1e site has more info. Hope that helps, and hope folks confirm/correct my understanding, cheers!
It was MP, as featured by Thomas Sanladerer in his series. The developer went nuclear after Thomas critiques for not using metric parts and the improvement of one of the parts of the project.
And that's how a popular/mainstream figure can instantly undermine someone's life work.... On that ocasion, Thomas S. was the arrogant one, but anyway... This, and other projects from V1 Eng. were always free... the way someone can bend reality and make it look like the creator is asking for royalties, is mind bogling....
Makers
Looks great but really lame components.
LOL, thank you :-) I like the *sturdy* machine you have at th-cam.com/video/AHh9MFNNDME/w-d-xo.html, love the angle Alu tracks, nice!
I was quite interested in the topic, but unfortunatly I had to stop watching after 1m 39 s, the fast video movements triggers nausea which could end in me vomiting.
Due to this, I could never be a gamer.
Sorry to hear this @Santo Pino. I will post a link here if I end up uploading footage that is not so fast. In the meantime, Videos from other V1E community members can be found at forum.v1engineering.com/t/videos-of-lr3s/32857 . Hope that helps!
@@AzaB2C I will have a look thanks
@@santopino2546 a write up of my build journey is available on forum.v1engineering.com/t/purple-black-rainbow-lr3-v1e-kit-ender-3-max-3018-with-3040-ext-in-wa-usa/33309 Many V1E Forum members have shared write ups of their builds too, see forum.v1engineering.com/c/lowrider/lr3/41 hope that helps. Cheers!