Hello again mate 1976 oily Suzuki gt250 The problem that I found was the pump was adjusted wrong, the marks on the oil pump arm was almost in line with the mark on the pump body when the throttle was closed, so pump was half way open before you twisted the throttle, Smokey, Smokey. Adjusted it so mark lined up when fully open and seems to be good, some smoke but much improved and no soaking oily plugs. Just goes to show that when someone tells you (mechanic) the pump is set correctly you should check yourself, your not as thick as you thought you were. Just have to balance carbs, idle screw and mixture now and she should run nicely, fancy a set of higspeed expansions now. Would be nice if you could do a video of setting up the carbs. Thanks once again for your help mate, much appreciated. Cleeve
Hello mate, looked at the oil pump video, I am having trouble seeing the cam, my 1976 model is smoking like buggery and I think the cam is wrong on the pump but I’m a bit of a chicken. So, can I just pop the pin out and swivel the cam round without stripping the whole pump down, would it be possible for you to show where the cam should be when fitted properly on the shaft, sorry to be a pain.
Hi Buddy, . Undo the plunger nut at the opposite end to the cam and remove the spring which takes the pressure of the cam. The cam should be facing away from you towards the piston. You should be able to pull the pin out and swivel it round. If not its easy to undo the shaft , pull it out and turn the cam and reassemble. Just be methodical, theres not much to go wrong. The cam works by preventing the piston from moving fully to produce more oil when idling. When throttle is turned the cam turns away from the plunger to allow more piston movement. Oil will burn out after about a mile or so down the road. I only use fully synthetic 2 stroke oil .
Hi I know this is an old video but I bought a GT 250 that has been in storage for 28 years. I am replacing the piston rings and rebuilding the carbs. How do I know whether my pump is good or what procedure should I use to get it ready for my first start? Thank you.
Firstly apologies for not responding, I haven't checked for a while. I would always take apart first and check everything moves nicely and is not stuck. A simple way to check is to connect the oil feed pipe then connect a variable speed drill to the spindle and slowly rotate. You should then see oil pumping out. Also blocking each oil outlet with your thumb will check whether the seals leak. Hope this helps
Hello. Needless to say I found you because I have pump issues on my GT 250 rebuild. I've applied too much pressure to the reverse threaded bolt and stripped some of the threads. Have you any idea where I could be a replacement? PS thanks for sharing the videos, they are a big help
Hi Ciaran, To put it bluntly no. Many years ago I inherited a pump which had the same problem ,someone had stripped the threads and metal glued it in. I couldn't get a bolt anywhere. The only option for you is to buy an expensive donor pump or make a bolt as I did. If you are confident enough buy a longer left threaded bolt ensuring the correct thread pitch. The steps I took are below Cut the the old bolt and slide the ring off. Get your electric drill ,clamp it in a vice or get someone to hold it steady. Spin the bolt and use a thin cutting disc on a grinder or the edge of a file and grind a slot for the collar.When the shaft diameter is the same size cut it off ,slightly longer , put the collar on and tap the end with a centre punch OR cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw and slightly splay it to widen it stopping the collar falling off. I used a centre punch. Just make sure all measurements are the same . The collar is not load bearing and I never had any problems with it after. Bolts are cheap so if you mess up try again as long as you don't damage the collar . Definitely a cheaper option. Hope this helps Regards
@@dave221960 You're very kind for getting back to me so fast. Upon closer inspection the bolt is fine, its the thread in the housing that's been stripped. I'm going to take it to a local engineer to see if they can reline it for me. BTW I did manage to local a replacement bolt from that guy in Canada that you recommended so thanks for sharing that information as well...most helpful. Will keep you posted with my progress and thanks again for your very helpful assistance.
Hi, I sold all my parts last year including complete and incomplete pumps. I would say your best bet is to contact Crooks motorcycles ltd, barrow in Furness, numbers on the Internet. They specialise in all suzuki's and if they have not got one they will get one or find an alternative. Hope this helps
Hello Again from Florida: Unfortunately I do not really undestand how this mail system works but wanted to tell you how much I have enjoyed your two videos on the GT250 oil pump. I believe you may be one of the few people in the world who understands the pump, Thank you for sharing the information. My GT250 pump malfunctioned (air bubbles mixed with oil) and I tried bleeding the system (no improvement) and then replacing seals (again no improvement). Check valves all tested okay and the lines did not leak. No amount of bleeding and priming alleviated the problem. Could not locate a replacement pump so out of desperation went to a T500 pump. (The experts told me it definitely would not work because it would supply too much oil). Disassembled both pumps and found the only difference is the operating lever, with the 250 being slightly shorter. Mounted T500 pump on bike and set pump adjustment to the small punch mark located below the main setting mark. (Determined by measuring distance on original operating arm). Bled and primed. Started bike and enjoyed watching the oil flow without bubbles. Will next switch operating levers and hopefully live happily everafter. Apologies for the long saga but wanted to again stress how much I owe to you for the videos. Many thanks. Dave
Hello again mate
1976 oily Suzuki gt250
The problem that I found was the pump was adjusted wrong, the marks on the oil pump arm was almost in line with the mark on the pump body when the throttle was closed, so pump was half way open before you twisted the throttle, Smokey, Smokey.
Adjusted it so mark lined up when fully open and seems to be good, some smoke but much improved and no soaking oily plugs.
Just goes to show that when someone tells you (mechanic) the pump is set correctly you should check yourself, your not as thick as you thought you were.
Just have to balance carbs, idle screw and mixture now and she should run nicely, fancy a set of higspeed expansions now.
Would be nice if you could do a video of setting up the carbs. Thanks once again for your help mate, much appreciated.
Cleeve
Brilliant mate, thank you
Thank you ! I understand a lot of things about this pump !! .... and i have no plunger in mine !!
Hi bud . I have a t250 hustler 1971- and the left hand bolt is missing would you have a spare please or no how i can get one . Thank you p
Hello mate, looked at the oil pump video, I am having trouble seeing the cam, my 1976 model is smoking like buggery and I think the cam is wrong on the pump but I’m a bit of a chicken. So, can I just pop the pin out and swivel the cam round without stripping the whole pump down, would it be possible for you to show where the cam should be when fitted properly on the shaft, sorry to be a pain.
Hi Buddy, . Undo the plunger nut at the opposite end to the cam and remove the spring which takes the pressure of the cam. The cam should be facing away from you towards the piston. You should be able to pull the pin out and swivel it round. If not its easy to undo the shaft , pull it out and turn the cam and reassemble. Just be methodical, theres not much to go wrong. The cam works by preventing the piston from moving fully to produce more oil when idling. When throttle is turned the cam turns away from the plunger to allow more piston movement. Oil will burn out after about a mile or so down the road. I only use fully synthetic 2 stroke oil .
Hi I know this is an old video but I bought a GT 250 that has been in storage for 28 years. I am replacing the piston rings and rebuilding the carbs. How do I know whether my pump is good or what procedure should I use to get it ready for my first start?
Thank you.
Firstly apologies for not responding, I haven't checked for a while. I would always take apart first and check everything moves nicely and is not stuck. A simple way to check is to connect the oil feed pipe then connect a variable speed drill to the spindle and slowly rotate. You should then see oil pumping out. Also blocking each oil outlet with your thumb will check whether the seals leak. Hope this helps
Hello. Needless to say I found you because I have pump issues on my GT 250 rebuild. I've applied too much pressure to the reverse threaded bolt and stripped some of the threads. Have you any idea where I could be a replacement? PS thanks for sharing the videos, they are a big help
Hi Ciaran,
To put it bluntly no. Many years ago I inherited a pump which had the same problem ,someone had stripped the threads and metal glued it in. I couldn't get a bolt anywhere. The only option for you is to buy an expensive donor pump or make a bolt as I did.
If you are confident enough buy a longer left threaded bolt ensuring the correct thread pitch.
The steps I took are below
Cut the the old bolt and slide the ring off.
Get your electric drill ,clamp it in a vice or get someone to hold it steady. Spin the bolt and use a thin cutting disc on a grinder or the edge of a file and grind a slot for the collar.When the shaft diameter is the same size cut it off ,slightly longer , put the collar on and tap the end with a centre punch OR cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw and slightly splay it to widen it stopping the collar falling off. I used a centre punch. Just make sure all measurements are the same . The collar is not load bearing and I never had any problems with it after. Bolts are cheap so if you mess up try again as long as you don't damage the collar . Definitely a cheaper option.
Hope this helps
Regards
@@dave221960 You're very kind for getting back to me so fast. Upon closer inspection the bolt is fine, its the thread in the housing that's been stripped. I'm going to take it to a local engineer to see if they can reline it for me. BTW I did manage to local a replacement bolt from that guy in Canada that you recommended so thanks for sharing that information as well...most helpful. Will keep you posted with my progress and thanks again for your very helpful assistance.
Hi, I sold all my parts last year including complete and incomplete pumps. I would say your best bet is to contact Crooks motorcycles ltd, barrow in Furness, numbers on the Internet. They specialise in all suzuki's and if they have not got one they will get one or find an alternative. Hope this helps
Hi Dave , greetings from sunny (at the moment ) England! Yes there is a part 2, Title --Suzuki gt250 oil pump part 2.
Hello Again from Florida:
Unfortunately I do not really undestand how this mail system works but wanted to tell you how much I have enjoyed your two videos on the GT250 oil pump. I believe you may be one of the few people in the world who understands the pump, Thank you for sharing the information.
My GT250 pump malfunctioned (air bubbles mixed with oil) and I tried bleeding the system (no improvement) and then replacing seals (again no improvement). Check valves all tested okay and the lines did not leak. No amount of bleeding and priming alleviated the problem. Could not locate a replacement pump so out of desperation went to a T500 pump. (The experts told me it definitely would not work because it would supply too much oil). Disassembled both pumps and found the only difference is the operating lever, with the 250 being slightly shorter. Mounted T500 pump on bike and set pump adjustment to the small punch mark located below the main setting mark. (Determined by measuring distance on original operating arm). Bled and primed. Started bike and enjoyed watching the oil flow without bubbles. Will next switch operating levers and hopefully live happily everafter.
Apologies for the long saga but wanted to again stress how much I owe to you for the videos. Many thanks.
Dave
You're welcome ,any other issues just contact me.