Hello again mate 1976 oily Suzuki gt250 The problem that I found was the pump was adjusted wrong, the marks on the oil pump arm was almost in line with the mark on the pump body when the throttle was closed, so pump was half way open before you twisted the throttle, Smokey, Smokey. Adjusted it so mark lined up when fully open and seems to be good, some smoke but much improved and no soaking oily plugs. Just goes to show that when someone tells you (mechanic) the pump is set correctly you should check yourself, your not as thick as you thought you were. Just have to balance carbs, idle screw and mixture now and she should run nicely, fancy a set of higspeed expansions now. Would be nice if you could do a video of setting up the carbs. Thanks once again for your help mate, much appreciated. Cleeve
Hello mate, looked at the oil pump video, I am having trouble seeing the cam, my 1976 model is smoking like buggery and I think the cam is wrong on the pump but I’m a bit of a chicken. So, can I just pop the pin out and swivel the cam round without stripping the whole pump down, would it be possible for you to show where the cam should be when fitted properly on the shaft, sorry to be a pain.
Hi Buddy, . Undo the plunger nut at the opposite end to the cam and remove the spring which takes the pressure of the cam. The cam should be facing away from you towards the piston. You should be able to pull the pin out and swivel it round. If not its easy to undo the shaft , pull it out and turn the cam and reassemble. Just be methodical, theres not much to go wrong. The cam works by preventing the piston from moving fully to produce more oil when idling. When throttle is turned the cam turns away from the plunger to allow more piston movement. Oil will burn out after about a mile or so down the road. I only use fully synthetic 2 stroke oil .
Can I ask a question please? I have a 1976 gt 250 and it smokes like buggery, would this be caused if the cam on the pump was installed incorrectly? The engine is fine, plenty of compression but very smokey and performance is impared, engine revs drop when pulling away. I think too much oil plug is oily a d drips from end of exhaust I would be grateful for some help please Cleeve
Hi, firstly check the alignment marks on the pump body and lever. You can adjust this slightly even if they do align. Make sure the plunger in the pump is not stuck and is freely moving, I have had several where if left for long periods they stick. Check the cam is fitted the right way otherwise max oil when idling which fills the engine and exhausts with oil. You can buy oil that reduces the smoke from these bikes. The bikes are nicknamed not 2 strokes but 2 strokey smokies for that reason. Usually the oil burns off after a mile or 2 and settles down. Lots of these bikes do have excessive oil on idle which clogs the engine . A fact with these bikes is full performance is not reached until the engine revs reach 4,000rpm so they are a bit sluggish pulling away and then all of a sudden take off when the revs hit 3-4000. I hope this helps good luck.
Hi I know this is an old video but I bought a GT 250 that has been in storage for 28 years. I am replacing the piston rings and rebuilding the carbs. How do I know whether my pump is good or what procedure should I use to get it ready for my first start? Thank you.
Firstly apologies for not responding, I haven't checked for a while. I would always take apart first and check everything moves nicely and is not stuck. A simple way to check is to connect the oil feed pipe then connect a variable speed drill to the spindle and slowly rotate. You should then see oil pumping out. Also blocking each oil outlet with your thumb will check whether the seals leak. Hope this helps
I too enjoy looking teardowns and I have found that many misunderstand the engineering and the devil in the details. Great video.. Great narration! In this case, I am wondering if cam slipping occurred from someone tinkering with the hold down nut on this component??? at any rate - Great style - bring it on .. when is our next video ?
Hello. Needless to say I found you because I have pump issues on my GT 250 rebuild. I've applied too much pressure to the reverse threaded bolt and stripped some of the threads. Have you any idea where I could be a replacement? PS thanks for sharing the videos, they are a big help
Hi Ciaran, To put it bluntly no. Many years ago I inherited a pump which had the same problem ,someone had stripped the threads and metal glued it in. I couldn't get a bolt anywhere. The only option for you is to buy an expensive donor pump or make a bolt as I did. If you are confident enough buy a longer left threaded bolt ensuring the correct thread pitch. The steps I took are below Cut the the old bolt and slide the ring off. Get your electric drill ,clamp it in a vice or get someone to hold it steady. Spin the bolt and use a thin cutting disc on a grinder or the edge of a file and grind a slot for the collar.When the shaft diameter is the same size cut it off ,slightly longer , put the collar on and tap the end with a centre punch OR cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw and slightly splay it to widen it stopping the collar falling off. I used a centre punch. Just make sure all measurements are the same . The collar is not load bearing and I never had any problems with it after. Bolts are cheap so if you mess up try again as long as you don't damage the collar . Definitely a cheaper option. Hope this helps Regards
@@dave221960 You're very kind for getting back to me so fast. Upon closer inspection the bolt is fine, its the thread in the housing that's been stripped. I'm going to take it to a local engineer to see if they can reline it for me. BTW I did manage to local a replacement bolt from that guy in Canada that you recommended so thanks for sharing that information as well...most helpful. Will keep you posted with my progress and thanks again for your very helpful assistance.
You save my day ! I'm restoring (first restoration) a suzuki b120 and the last owner remove this pump to run pre-mix which I learned is a bad thing to do because the engine is not design to lubrificate from the top but only with the pump. So I bought an use one from ebay and I wanted to check if it's properly working problem is the service manual just tittled don't dissamble the oil pump and nothing else... So you little course just help me figured out what I should check for. Thank you very much sir !
Hi, I sold all my parts last year including complete and incomplete pumps. I would say your best bet is to contact Crooks motorcycles ltd, barrow in Furness, numbers on the Internet. They specialise in all suzuki's and if they have not got one they will get one or find an alternative. Hope this helps
Hello Again from Florida: Unfortunately I do not really undestand how this mail system works but wanted to tell you how much I have enjoyed your two videos on the GT250 oil pump. I believe you may be one of the few people in the world who understands the pump, Thank you for sharing the information. My GT250 pump malfunctioned (air bubbles mixed with oil) and I tried bleeding the system (no improvement) and then replacing seals (again no improvement). Check valves all tested okay and the lines did not leak. No amount of bleeding and priming alleviated the problem. Could not locate a replacement pump so out of desperation went to a T500 pump. (The experts told me it definitely would not work because it would supply too much oil). Disassembled both pumps and found the only difference is the operating lever, with the 250 being slightly shorter. Mounted T500 pump on bike and set pump adjustment to the small punch mark located below the main setting mark. (Determined by measuring distance on original operating arm). Bled and primed. Started bike and enjoyed watching the oil flow without bubbles. Will next switch operating levers and hopefully live happily everafter. Apologies for the long saga but wanted to again stress how much I owe to you for the videos. Many thanks. Dave
No , I wouldn't be able to , the pump was returned to the owner so not able to measure. Have you got any calipers if so measure the diameter of the threads. If no calipers use an adjustable wrench on the thread then measure the gap. If for example thread measures less than a whole millimetre say 5.67 it will be a 6mm (m6) bolt and so on. You may be able to re tap the thread without drilling but If the threads are gone buy the next size up bolt and re tap. Up to you whether you try it or not but if you get a stainless steel bolt the same size as a larger new banjo you can tap using that. Just grind out a couple of small grooves along the thread shaft. This works well with soft metal and saves the expense of a tap.
Hi can i ask the middle banjo bolt on pump?? Iv taken mine out as couldn’t seem to tighten up ?? On the threads there seems to be a very light spring wrapt around the banjo bolt thread would you know if thats correct or would it be the thread of inner pump hence not being able to tighten . Thank you p
Hi, there should not be any Spring around the thread , I reckon from what you describe someone previously has stripped the threads and used a helicoil to reform the thread? .
Thanks for the reply . Iv taken two banjo bolts out and 1 has been broken . And as you say threads have been strip. So this needs a rethread. Would you no the size of the banjo bolt and the new size i need to order so i can try and rethread with a new bigger banjo bolt . The pump now seems to be working apart from one banjo I’m unable to tighten down. Thank you- p
Very helpful couple of videos, thank you. I have a new bike and am sorting some issues. I'm having problems with my GT250 (L) pump as I have oil to the pump but it doesn't seem to be getting any further but it may just be air in the pump and 4 x outlet hoses after I drained the oil tank and replaced the hose from the tank to pump which I would like to bleed before I try a strip down. I can see the banjo's could be cracked slightly to remove air from the 4 x oil lines to the crank but is there a port on the pump that can be cracked to remove any air from the pump before moving onto the 4 x oil hoses. Thank you
Hi, there are two ways you can bleed the pump. 1) remove the pump from the engine, unscrew the bleed nut at the front of the pump, (the big hex nut which has spring and plunger) fill it with oil and replace then remove rear cover and fill that with oil and replace cover. Unscrew banjo coupling on feed pipe and let oil flow through then replace and tighten. Remove the outlet hoses, Remove the speedo drive housing and connect your drill to it. Spin the drill in direction of rotation ,should be clockwise and oil should be seen to slowly pulsate out. Try to keep the cable lever forward for max oil flow. Keep spinning until air is removed. Connect the outlet pipes and spin until oil flows from pipes. Make sure all air bubbles are out.
Apologies accidentally hit add button, if the oil doesn't flow easily warm it up or use a syringe to push it through the feed pipe. 2) The other way is to remove outlet pipes and leave for a few hours and let gravity flow the oil through the pump then use the drill purge the pipes of air. Hope this is clear enough to help.
Second thoughts, a safer bet with your pump after filling with oil is to replace the speedo housing before spinning with the drill. You can use a screwdriver bit and access the slot in the spindle under the pump. Spin anti clockwise from here. Make sure feed pipe is attached at all times. Also test the one way valves in the outlet pipes to ensure they are working. Nothing should blow back up to the pump ,if it does it will not lubricate engine. Once all bled leave the pipes detached from the engine for a few hours and see if oil continually drips out. If either issue occurs they need replacing .if they drip then the crankcase can start to fill with oil causing engine not to start and other problems.
Hello Brillant video i beleve im having this very issue with the cam!! the oil pump arm would stick part way so i rebuilt it with new seals it was then operating freely but lots of smoke at tick over so decided to go over the pump aging incase somthing was wrong when i noticed a rub marks on the cam that were not toutching anything to make them so i turned the cam 180 degrees to make contact but now the sticking has returned any help would be fantastic thanks Dan
Crash85 Hi Dan, Just to confirm the cam should be set so that it is facing into the pump with the lever in the normal position held back by its spring. Cam should not be facing towards the rear it should be hidden from view when You take the rear plate off. You would think as I did back in the seventies when I had my first Gt 250 that by pushing the lever forwards it would push the piston forwards and naturally produce more oil but in fact the exact opposite happens as it prevents the piston from travelling its full distance. Regards the lever sticking that is normal all my old bikes were exactly the same , when the bike is running it sticks for a fraction of a second before returning. What causes this is the shape of the cam- as the lever is pushed forwards the pin at the rear of the piston drops off the edge of the cam allowing the piston to move backwards further therefore allowing a greater distance of movement and more oil. When you shut off the throttle the cam rotates back with the lever and will come up underneath the pin on the piston and due to the design will appear to get stuck needing to be forced back. DONT FORCE IT . It will only get stuck when the piston is at the end of its rearward stroke but as soon as the piston moves forward again by the motion of the bolt and its ring the cam will clear and return to its idling position. All happens in a split second and when the bike is running you won't even notice this happening as all so quick. If you have the pump in your hand when it sticks just turn the spindle clockwise when viewed from the top and and when piston moves forward the cam will clear the pin and the lever will click back. I have had 5 of these bikes since the seventies and all levers stuck and my first had the cam fitted back to front. I got it real cheap though as the bloke thought the engine had blown due to all the smoke ,as did I. A tip re bleeding the pump. Before putting the pump onto the bike ,Use an oil can or syringe fill the area of the cam with oil then put the plate on ,undo the bleed nut take out spring and plunger and fill this with oil , screw bleed and assembly back in and oil will bleed back through oil feed and engine pipe feed holes. Keep level and fit to bike. If all the pipes are bled this will save a lot of time. Hope this helps. MB
Great explanation! Thanx!
Hello again mate 1976 oily Suzuki gt250 The problem that I found was the pump was adjusted wrong, the marks on the oil pump arm was almost in line with the mark on the pump body when the throttle was closed, so pump was half way open before you twisted the throttle, Smokey, Smokey. Adjusted it so mark lined up when fully open and seems to be good, some smoke but much improved and no soaking oily plugs. Just goes to show that when someone tells you (mechanic) the pump is set correctly you should check yourself, your not as thick as you thought you were. Just have to balance carbs, idle screw and mixture now and she should run nicely, fancy a set of higspeed expansions now. Would be nice if you could do a video of setting up the carbs. Thanks once again for your help mate, much appreciated. Cleeve
Brilliant mate, thank you
Hello mate, looked at the oil pump video, I am having trouble seeing the cam, my 1976 model is smoking like buggery and I think the cam is wrong on the pump but I’m a bit of a chicken. So, can I just pop the pin out and swivel the cam round without stripping the whole pump down, would it be possible for you to show where the cam should be when fitted properly on the shaft, sorry to be a pain.
Hi Buddy, . Undo the plunger nut at the opposite end to the cam and remove the spring which takes the pressure of the cam. The cam should be facing away from you towards the piston. You should be able to pull the pin out and swivel it round. If not its easy to undo the shaft , pull it out and turn the cam and reassemble. Just be methodical, theres not much to go wrong. The cam works by preventing the piston from moving fully to produce more oil when idling. When throttle is turned the cam turns away from the plunger to allow more piston movement. Oil will burn out after about a mile or so down the road. I only use fully synthetic 2 stroke oil .
I'll have a go mate Thanks for your help
Can I ask a question please? I have a 1976 gt 250 and it smokes like buggery, would this be caused if the cam on the pump was installed incorrectly? The engine is fine, plenty of compression but very smokey and performance is impared, engine revs drop when pulling away. I think too much oil plug is oily a d drips from end of exhaust I would be grateful for some help please Cleeve
Hi, firstly check the alignment marks on the pump body and lever. You can adjust this slightly even if they do align. Make sure the plunger in the pump is not stuck and is freely moving, I have had several where if left for long periods they stick. Check the cam is fitted the right way otherwise max oil when idling which fills the engine and exhausts with oil. You can buy oil that reduces the smoke from these bikes. The bikes are nicknamed not 2 strokes but 2 strokey smokies for that reason. Usually the oil burns off after a mile or 2 and settles down. Lots of these bikes do have excessive oil on idle which clogs the engine . A fact with these bikes is full performance is not reached until the engine revs reach 4,000rpm so they are a bit sluggish pulling away and then all of a sudden take off when the revs hit 3-4000. I hope this helps good luck.
One further point ,check the one way valves in the oil feed pipes because if they are faulty they will just leak into the engine.
Hi the previous 2 comments came from me and I not sure how I was on a different channel. anyway good luck with it.
@@David-np9pw❤
Hi I know this is an old video but I bought a GT 250 that has been in storage for 28 years. I am replacing the piston rings and rebuilding the carbs. How do I know whether my pump is good or what procedure should I use to get it ready for my first start? Thank you.
Firstly apologies for not responding, I haven't checked for a while. I would always take apart first and check everything moves nicely and is not stuck. A simple way to check is to connect the oil feed pipe then connect a variable speed drill to the spindle and slowly rotate. You should then see oil pumping out. Also blocking each oil outlet with your thumb will check whether the seals leak. Hope this helps
I too enjoy looking teardowns and I have found that many misunderstand the engineering and the devil in the details. Great video.. Great narration! In this case, I am wondering if cam slipping occurred from someone tinkering with the hold down nut on this component??? at any rate - Great style - bring it on .. when is our next video ?
Thank you ! I understand a lot of things about this pump !! .... and i have no plunger in mine !!
Great vid thanks!
Great video, great disassembly explanation. I think it would save me lots of time :)
Please subscribe my channel 😀 th-cam.com/channels/TLXkDI5n4eCJXJDYUsZMBQ.html
Very nice bro 😀
Building a GT 200X5 now and have it running on premix but need it on pump. Bottom line is that this has been helpful.... :)
Nice and clear explanation (no background music is a BIG plus...…) Thanks
Hello. Needless to say I found you because I have pump issues on my GT 250 rebuild. I've applied too much pressure to the reverse threaded bolt and stripped some of the threads. Have you any idea where I could be a replacement? PS thanks for sharing the videos, they are a big help
Hi Ciaran, To put it bluntly no. Many years ago I inherited a pump which had the same problem ,someone had stripped the threads and metal glued it in. I couldn't get a bolt anywhere. The only option for you is to buy an expensive donor pump or make a bolt as I did. If you are confident enough buy a longer left threaded bolt ensuring the correct thread pitch. The steps I took are below Cut the the old bolt and slide the ring off. Get your electric drill ,clamp it in a vice or get someone to hold it steady. Spin the bolt and use a thin cutting disc on a grinder or the edge of a file and grind a slot for the collar.When the shaft diameter is the same size cut it off ,slightly longer , put the collar on and tap the end with a centre punch OR cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw and slightly splay it to widen it stopping the collar falling off. I used a centre punch. Just make sure all measurements are the same . The collar is not load bearing and I never had any problems with it after. Bolts are cheap so if you mess up try again as long as you don't damage the collar . Definitely a cheaper option. Hope this helps Regards
@@dave221960 You're very kind for getting back to me so fast. Upon closer inspection the bolt is fine, its the thread in the housing that's been stripped. I'm going to take it to a local engineer to see if they can reline it for me. BTW I did manage to local a replacement bolt from that guy in Canada that you recommended so thanks for sharing that information as well...most helpful. Will keep you posted with my progress and thanks again for your very helpful assistance.
You save my day ! I'm restoring (first restoration) a suzuki b120 and the last owner remove this pump to run pre-mix which I learned is a bad thing to do because the engine is not design to lubrificate from the top but only with the pump. So I bought an use one from ebay and I wanted to check if it's properly working problem is the service manual just tittled don't dissamble the oil pump and nothing else... So you little course just help me figured out what I should check for. Thank you very much sir !
Good to know it helped Regards
Hi, I sold all my parts last year including complete and incomplete pumps. I would say your best bet is to contact Crooks motorcycles ltd, barrow in Furness, numbers on the Internet. They specialise in all suzuki's and if they have not got one they will get one or find an alternative. Hope this helps
Hi Dave , greetings from sunny (at the moment ) England! Yes there is a part 2, Title --Suzuki gt250 oil pump part 2.
Hello Again from Florida: Unfortunately I do not really undestand how this mail system works but wanted to tell you how much I have enjoyed your two videos on the GT250 oil pump. I believe you may be one of the few people in the world who understands the pump, Thank you for sharing the information. My GT250 pump malfunctioned (air bubbles mixed with oil) and I tried bleeding the system (no improvement) and then replacing seals (again no improvement). Check valves all tested okay and the lines did not leak. No amount of bleeding and priming alleviated the problem. Could not locate a replacement pump so out of desperation went to a T500 pump. (The experts told me it definitely would not work because it would supply too much oil). Disassembled both pumps and found the only difference is the operating lever, with the 250 being slightly shorter. Mounted T500 pump on bike and set pump adjustment to the small punch mark located below the main setting mark. (Determined by measuring distance on original operating arm). Bled and primed. Started bike and enjoyed watching the oil flow without bubbles. Will next switch operating levers and hopefully live happily everafter. Apologies for the long saga but wanted to again stress how much I owe to you for the videos. Many thanks. Dave
You're welcome ,any other issues just contact me.
Hi bud . I have a t250 hustler 1971- and the left hand bolt is missing would you have a spare please or no how i can get one . Thank you p
No , I wouldn't be able to , the pump was returned to the owner so not able to measure. Have you got any calipers if so measure the diameter of the threads. If no calipers use an adjustable wrench on the thread then measure the gap. If for example thread measures less than a whole millimetre say 5.67 it will be a 6mm (m6) bolt and so on. You may be able to re tap the thread without drilling but If the threads are gone buy the next size up bolt and re tap. Up to you whether you try it or not but if you get a stainless steel bolt the same size as a larger new banjo you can tap using that. Just grind out a couple of small grooves along the thread shaft. This works well with soft metal and saves the expense of a tap.
Hi can i ask the middle banjo bolt on pump?? Iv taken mine out as couldn’t seem to tighten up ?? On the threads there seems to be a very light spring wrapt around the banjo bolt thread would you know if thats correct or would it be the thread of inner pump hence not being able to tighten . Thank you p
Hi, there should not be any Spring around the thread , I reckon from what you describe someone previously has stripped the threads and used a helicoil to reform the thread? .
Thanks for the reply . Iv taken two banjo bolts out and 1 has been broken . And as you say threads have been strip. So this needs a rethread. Would you no the size of the banjo bolt and the new size i need to order so i can try and rethread with a new bigger banjo bolt . The pump now seems to be working apart from one banjo I’m unable to tighten down. Thank you- p
Very helpful couple of videos, thank you. I have a new bike and am sorting some issues. I'm having problems with my GT250 (L) pump as I have oil to the pump but it doesn't seem to be getting any further but it may just be air in the pump and 4 x outlet hoses after I drained the oil tank and replaced the hose from the tank to pump which I would like to bleed before I try a strip down. I can see the banjo's could be cracked slightly to remove air from the 4 x oil lines to the crank but is there a port on the pump that can be cracked to remove any air from the pump before moving onto the 4 x oil hoses. Thank you
Hi, there are two ways you can bleed the pump. 1) remove the pump from the engine, unscrew the bleed nut at the front of the pump, (the big hex nut which has spring and plunger) fill it with oil and replace then remove rear cover and fill that with oil and replace cover. Unscrew banjo coupling on feed pipe and let oil flow through then replace and tighten. Remove the outlet hoses, Remove the speedo drive housing and connect your drill to it. Spin the drill in direction of rotation ,should be clockwise and oil should be seen to slowly pulsate out. Try to keep the cable lever forward for max oil flow. Keep spinning until air is removed. Connect the outlet pipes and spin until oil flows from pipes. Make sure all air bubbles are out.
Apologies accidentally hit add button, if the oil doesn't flow easily warm it up or use a syringe to push it through the feed pipe. 2) The other way is to remove outlet pipes and leave for a few hours and let gravity flow the oil through the pump then use the drill purge the pipes of air. Hope this is clear enough to help.
Thank you very much. I will try this.
Second thoughts, a safer bet with your pump after filling with oil is to replace the speedo housing before spinning with the drill. You can use a screwdriver bit and access the slot in the spindle under the pump. Spin anti clockwise from here. Make sure feed pipe is attached at all times. Also test the one way valves in the outlet pipes to ensure they are working. Nothing should blow back up to the pump ,if it does it will not lubricate engine. Once all bled leave the pipes detached from the engine for a few hours and see if oil continually drips out. If either issue occurs they need replacing .if they drip then the crankcase can start to fill with oil causing engine not to start and other problems.
Thank you, I will be on to this at the weekend.
Hello Brillant video i beleve im having this very issue with the cam!! the oil pump arm would stick part way so i rebuilt it with new seals it was then operating freely but lots of smoke at tick over so decided to go over the pump aging incase somthing was wrong when i noticed a rub marks on the cam that were not toutching anything to make them so i turned the cam 180 degrees to make contact but now the sticking has returned any help would be fantastic thanks Dan
Crash85 Hi Dan, Just to confirm the cam should be set so that it is facing into the pump with the lever in the normal position held back by its spring. Cam should not be facing towards the rear it should be hidden from view when You take the rear plate off. You would think as I did back in the seventies when I had my first Gt 250 that by pushing the lever forwards it would push the piston forwards and naturally produce more oil but in fact the exact opposite happens as it prevents the piston from travelling its full distance. Regards the lever sticking that is normal all my old bikes were exactly the same , when the bike is running it sticks for a fraction of a second before returning. What causes this is the shape of the cam- as the lever is pushed forwards the pin at the rear of the piston drops off the edge of the cam allowing the piston to move backwards further therefore allowing a greater distance of movement and more oil. When you shut off the throttle the cam rotates back with the lever and will come up underneath the pin on the piston and due to the design will appear to get stuck needing to be forced back. DONT FORCE IT . It will only get stuck when the piston is at the end of its rearward stroke but as soon as the piston moves forward again by the motion of the bolt and its ring the cam will clear and return to its idling position. All happens in a split second and when the bike is running you won't even notice this happening as all so quick. If you have the pump in your hand when it sticks just turn the spindle clockwise when viewed from the top and and when piston moves forward the cam will clear the pin and the lever will click back. I have had 5 of these bikes since the seventies and all levers stuck and my first had the cam fitted back to front. I got it real cheap though as the bloke thought the engine had blown due to all the smoke ,as did I. A tip re bleeding the pump. Before putting the pump onto the bike ,Use an oil can or syringe fill the area of the cam with oil then put the plate on ,undo the bleed nut take out spring and plunger and fill this with oil , screw bleed and assembly back in and oil will bleed back through oil feed and engine pipe feed holes. Keep level and fit to bike. If all the pipes are bled this will save a lot of time. Hope this helps. MB
Machine boss 123 hello thanks for the help that hped alot the pump is fixed and reassembled now and working no leaks thanks again for the help