One thing I like to do, on those black punisher air filter covers is drill a hole dead center between the two screw holes "with it off the carb and the round foam out of the way " so in the winter time you can spray in a quick blast of starting fluid if need be. I know you could spray it up from the holes on the bottom but most of it drips out
Lightly turn in the idle adjustment screw til it bottoms. Stop. Turning in to tight will damage the screw. Turn the screw out (counter clockwise) 2- 2 1/2 turns. This should put you in the ball park. Adjust your cable with the filter assembly removed. Look inside or place a finger inside the carb opening. Twist the throttle to fully open. The slider should reach top of bore. If it doesn't adjust the cable accordingly. Begin adjustment at top of carb and finalize at the upper adjuster. Try not to use up more than half of the threads of either. Too few threads and you will eventually strip them lose from stress as you continually use the throttle. Start the bike. If it doesn't idle, turn the adjustment screw in until it does. If it idles to high, turn the screw out til you have reached proper idle. Before starting your bike for the first time, remove the spark plug and add a tablespoon or so of oil into the plug hole. With the plug still out, push the bike forward a few feet to pre lubricate the cylinder. Reinstall the plug and ride on.
good tip for the carb to intake mounting! esp like the pedal with full choke to oil up the cylinder on first start up. never heard that before. most ppl just recommend squirt a little 2 stroke oil into the spark plug hole. maybe both? break-in is very important with these little 2 strokes
Nick Lablanc are you counting turns as 360 degree rotations, or turns by hand or screw driver which would be more like half turns(i.e. the part of the screw head at 12oclock ends up at 6 o'clock but still looks like it was rotated 360°). The only reason I ask is because the screw on my carb is essentially as far in as it goes at 11 turns, so as far as tuning goes there's literally a 100% difference between a turn being 360° rather than 180°
Chris Carr I did 11 screws 360 with my hand and used to screwdriver only for the last quarter cuz it made it a little bit earlier I'm very very new into this hobby I wish I could give you more help but I hope things work out for you man
All that screw does is raise or lower you idle setting it does not affect the fuel/air mixture. Just set it to the idle level that sounds good to you and the engine isn’t dying or racing.
Thank you so much, ThunderHead!!! My bike build was giving me a headache, it's my first build on my own. Did every single thing you said including a tight seal, I even used an electrical tape too! LOL and she runs likes a beauty now when before it wouldn't start! Yay! Thank you again! Liked and Favorited, and subbed! :D
Negative feedback is because your telling people they need to change their air/fuel mixture if they adjust the idle....Idle adjust just changes how far the throttle is open. it does not change the air/fuel mixture.
@@ThunderHead289 You ever have a problem with gas just pouring out of a tiny hole In the carburetor?? Ben adjusting it and doing everything I can't get it to stop leaking
The screw on the side is the idle adjuster screw NOT a mix screw. It simply opens the throttle slide and lets in enough air and gas to idle. The adjuster on the top of the carb simply tightens the throttle cable. It's important not to have any play in it. It needs adjusting so you get instant response when you twist the throttle. There is NO mix screw. The ONLY way to adjust the mixture is by altering the needle setting. There are videos that show how to do this.
Nice bike man. I recently gave my motorized bicycle engine to my friend (got paid well) and it runs pretty good after cleaning the carb with carb cleaner. Though now it has one issue. Motor sat for a few months and the engine seems to be breaking up at high rpm only when it's warmed up (when the engine is cold it hits 30 mph. When warm it only goes 23 mph and sounds like it's breaking up) Before I took the engine off motor ran great all the way to the max rpm even at temp. I cleaned the carb and the spark plug (gap is the same but runs rich). The story from start to end. I swapped the engine over to his bike from mine, I attached it to the bike with zip ties as I did not have a way to safely secure the front engine mount. #becauseroadkill I got the bike running for a few minutes and then the engine sputtered bad enough that it ran. Once I cleaned the carb and the spark plug (then duct taped the choke lever which was loose to the open position and it ran great all the way to max rpm. (Until it warms up). Once it warms up the engine starts breaking up and it's running rich. I did put way too much oil in the first tank but the next tank will be 32:1. Went 23 mph in it. Before i swapped it it went 30. I'm guessing the ignition box (also ziptied down) is dying or there is a short in the connection.
There is NO MIXTURE SCREW on a NT carb! The screw on the side just limits the lowest position of the slide, thus determining your idle rpm (if the cable is not too tight). The idle RPM must be adjusted from the screw and after that the cable must be adjusted so there is just a litle bit of free play when you start twisting the throttle.
Proper procedure would be to screw the throttle handle adjustment all the way in, screw in the carb throttle cable adjustment until there is some slack in the cable and then adjust your idle speed with the idle speed screw on the carb side, then adjust the throttle cable carb adjustment to take up any slack in the cable...the throttle handle screw can then be conveniently screwed out to take up slack from stretch as time goes on.
Your vacuum leak problem describes what i am having issues with exactly. Idles fast when not under load, and revs down slowly. Thank you so much. Is there any other places that often have this same issue?
Hi,good explanation body, you did very good, I think this guy when I bought this new bike w. 80cc doesn't know like you explained. Question?? my bike at first I drove in the Ally only, it was fine but when I got home I smells gasoline, is licking all around under the top of the carburetor, I don't know why? I think this guy does not understand much about the all information like you explain very well, now I am trying to put an other carburetor in the bike but I don't know much about this bike S.......any idea why is licking?? thank you.
Sounds like your float is stuck and not moving the needle up in its seat.take the screws holding the float bowl (bottom half of carb) make sure the needle is attached to the bowl and it goes smoothly back in to its sest while attached to the float now with the bottom off and the float dangling down lightly blow into the fuel inlet with a section of fuel line and gently raise the float until its level which if correctly done should not allow anymore air to enter the fuel inleti actually had to slightly heat up the plastic tab on the float and slightly bend it up so it would shut off fuel flow when the fuel bowl was full.i had the same problem as you and it hadent leaked before that for the first month then one day i saw fuel leaking out as you did
Sorry i meant needle attached to the float not bowl anyways its going to be the carb float causing the leak but one other place known to leak is the gas tank bolts because they arent very strongly attached to the thin metal tank so do not go more than a little snug on them as for me i took a torch to the top rail and then wire brushed off the burnt paint so it was bare metal then i did yhe same with ylthe underside of gas tank.i drained it first and rinsed it with watet then left a little water in it before i baked the paint off with a torch.i did all of that because i wanted a good bond with the jb weld that i spread all over the underside of gastank i let it set overnight and now i never have to worry about the studs leaking on the fuel tank because i didnt even use them
should I use one of those cool looking filters that come with the HP carbs? What about taking out the baffle in the exhaust? Which jet do you recommend? You should start charging but not me...lol Thanks
For the idle adjustment screw, I’ve found that taking the screw out completely and making 3 1/2 complete (360 deg) turns in is a good starting point. Altitude will come into play for some riders, but this should put most engines close to where they need to be.
hey thunderhead. i just got my motorized bike going she runs smooth. only thing i seem to notice is after i get her going whenever i squeeze the clutch in to stop the engine revs really high it seems. after a good 10 minutes of riding this seems to go away its usually only the first few stops after i start it.
+wsol9103 sounds like it is just lean when it is cold. this is alright, just make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks. id say richen your mix screw 1/4 turn and do the trick on the intake i did in this video with the electrical tape.
Just turn the idle adjustment screw counterclockwise a bit it will bring the rpms down. If it doesn’t then adjust the throttle cable where it has a tiny bit of slack. This adjustment is on top of the carb and at the twist grip.
Are you telling me the adjustment you make on the throttle cable adjusts the idle speed. and the screw on the side is the fuel mixture.... BECAUSE I'VE BEEN ADJUSTING THE SIDE SCREW TRYING TO GET THIS THING TO IDLE CORRECTLY
I just bought one of these bikes and it was already put together and I don't really know how the clutch supposed to work it don't seem to work properly I'm not sure how to start it. I would appreciate your help by the way I paid 200 for it and it does run but I don't know how to operate it.
i just installed an 80cc motor on a mongoose 29inch the frame was a very tight fit but i was able to get it in with some modifications but the carburetor i had sitting in there sideways and it was leaking gas by the primer. does it matter which position the carburetor is ? i apprecaite all your videos . thank you
I try start mine up for the first time with full choke it started up fine but soon as I clothes the choke it shuts right off? Thank you for your help if you can.
here's my situation my bike starts fine but it has hardly any power whatsoever anymore and everytime I come to a stop I can't keep it running with the clutch in. basically it just keeps on stalling out and running like crap
thnaks man! i tryed this today and now my bike stays running. only problem im having now is thAt its idling real high and wont stop. what do u think? vaccum leak inbetween the carb n engine?
+ThunderHead289 i had my adjustment on my throttle ran far down like u show in the video. i tightend it back a few threads & tht helped it idle down a bit but its stil idling real high. & when u say turn the idle screw "10 or 11 turns in" do u mean full of half turns?
My engine started to sputter and run really rough. It will start, but backfires around the carb area. Just when it seems to clear and rev up again it backfires again and runs rough. Any ideas?
I will try you recommendations insomuch as I've been struggling for a while because after replacing my head gaskets, the bike will not idle down. I also tried a new carburetor and throttle to no effect, because right now she's just wide open.
Do these carbs have an air/fuel mixture? I think my bike might be running lean cause at high speeds/loads it sounds like it's misfiring and not getting enough fuel to combust. Although after watching your video I think I might have a slight vacuum leak and am gonna try spraying around carb cleaner
Hello it's me again :D i'm just having some trouble with the carb, when I push the choke down, then get going and fire up the engine, the choke goes upwards and the motor just dies. (sometimes it keeps going but slower) if I put it all the way up the bike doesn't work. so I have to keep pressing the choke down to get it going. (when I want to keep going after it was going) I hope you know what I mean. please help and thank you soooooooo much for the help so far. you're the best! also it wont start with the choke up. I have to physically push it down to make it work.
+COOL CANADIAN here is how i start my bike in the cold, i peddle to about 8 or ten miles an hour with the choke closed, drop the clutch and let the engine spin, it will usually fire up, and as soon as it fires up, i flip the choke open and keep giving the engine a little bit of gas so it will idle until the engine is warm enough to idle on its own. i then will actually ride it. i sometimes use the primer button on the carb in conjunction with the choke to start the engine. does this make sense?
+COOL CANADIAN Try half way down, like he said the choke is closed when all the way up on these carbs. Pedal and start the engine, once it gets running, push the choke lever all the way down, this opens the air to the carb all the way open. The purpose of the choke lever is to give the engine a more fuel rich fuel/air mixture to help it start, once the engine is running you want to ope the choke lever all the way open to let he air in the carb.
@@jellezwart9155 did you try the spark plug in a lawn mower to make sure the spark is strong enough? I'm sure you have tried a lot of things just trying to think what the problem is
@@jellezwart9155 well you checked the stuff I would have looked at first. I imagine you looked at the carb already, if it isn't that then IDK either. I would have to see it in person.
Hey quick question. I haven't ran my motorized 80cc bike in about 10 months. Started it yesterday and it's rev at what seems to be full RPM and it's blowing a lot of smoke any ideas on what to look for? Cheers mate.
Because its sat idle for 10 months most of the fuel in the engine crankcase has evaporated but the oil hasnt, hence the extra blue smoke, dont worry it will be fine.
So my bike won't start at the middle notch on the pin, only on the bottom one or the one above it, but at those two spots it pretty much revs uncontrollably and gets extremely hot(keep in mind we just had a huge winter storm so it's pretty damn cold out) in like a minute and eventually just stalls out or stalls as soon as I engage the clutch. While it's running I've essentially moved the screw in and out in every position, as well as adjusted the throttle cable, which has a slightly too short casing so if the screws aren't basically all the way out more than half of the throttle travel is just pulling up the slack, but I still tried it and no dice. I'm wondering if having cut the intake like half an inch shorter could be the cause, so the air filter would fit while I wait for an offset manifold, or maybe something else? I also noticed some fuel on the engine that is seeming to drip out of the air filter 0_o any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Wait, when you say 11 turns, are you counting a turn as like a turn of a screwdriver (so like 180° if that), or a full 360° turn? Because from the screw being pulled out mine doesn't even go 11 360° turns unless I'd put significant force on it to make the last maybe 540° or 1 ½ rotations
I've had eBay engines that are extremely tight. They require break-in. Each time they are started, they run a little longer before getting hot and quitting. Ride it a short distance and let it cool. Ride it a little farther each time until you can go a half mile or so without stopping. This procedure has worked for me.
I was always taught to "Loosely Hand Tighten" the screw and then "Back it Out" the Required amount. Not remove it and then put it back in "Some Amount". What am I doing Wrong???
hi guys, can you please tell me if you can.......I have a new 80cc 2 stroke engine kit on my bicycle, went together well but now the engine won't rev much, not enough to propel the bike & me on it! I checked/cleaned all the usual stuff carb/plug/throttle cable/vacuum leaks etc. All seems fine, I live in Ireland and used your fuel mix as close as possible in litres/ml, (16:1) again mix seems ok, a mechanic friend of mine thought it was the carb at fault as he took the barrel/needle out of the carb while keeping his thumb on the opening while engine was running, he said the engine should be screaming/revving it's brains out at this stage, but still only revved a bit kinda like a fast idle, so I again dismantled and cleaned the carb. It looks fine and you'd expect it to work when I put it on, but no! Please send me any suggestions you can. Regards P.S. it's a NT carb...........
I had this issue, the carb isnt setup properly, watch some videos on how to setup the pin, barrel and spring in the carb. I had the spring on the wrong side so it was holding the valve open rather than shut.
I Don't think they understand the problem you're having. It's pretty common with these kits to have loose tolerances, especially in cables, which means the cable housing on the throttle cable is sometimes mere centimeters too short so you can literally unscrew the adjustments on both the carb and throttle assembly completely and there will still be slack. Best thing to do is just deal with it unless you want to buy a new cable. You could also buy a cheap thing of cable housing and cut the tiny bit you need to pick up the slack and add it between the existing cable housing and adjustment screw on top of the carb. You may also have an air leak if the engine is revving up all the way upon starting. At least that's what I've read while trying to figure out why my bike is doing the same thing. To check if it is indeed your cable you can simply pull off the air filter and look in the hole. If the black slide is lifted up like it is when the throttle is wide open, the cable is pulling it up. If it's not, it's not the cable. It's unlikely a loose cable will cause tension on the slide and lift it simulating a wide open throttle though because the cable has to be pulled tight for that to happen, not be slack
Well, so I took the screw all the way out, screwed it in ten full turns and it stopped right there. It is seated. I would imagine that it should be screwed out a few turns? Say, oh two and a half...? Something? I can't imagine it wants to be left seated down tight. Any suggestions?
Okay I took off the end part of the exhaust and 1. It got loud 2. it went fast but only for a quick minute like 15 seconds and then back to slow how it was when it was on so why does that happen
hallo chief,,i have problem with the spark plugs.after 3-4 kilometres are black..i have given 600 euro for repair but nothing..it has rich gasoline mixture i think..also there is a leak of gasoline in the switch even ..
Im getting ready to do my first build and have the same 29 inch bike, is an easy build? seems like everyone builds 26 inch bikes. any tips for me? thanks
+sunnylandcamper its not hard, but not the easiest. its not the sturdiest bike ever, the fender nuts and all need to be lock tighted. also, youl need different handle bars because the bars on the bike are too big of diameter. you will also need to add a brake to the front and when you put the rear sprocket on, you will need to bend the coaster brake around it for clearance.
+sunnylandcamper I watched a buddy of mine go ass over teakettle because the fender caught the tire then folded up under the fork and almost killed the kid The job they do just is not worth the trouble they can cause on a motorized bicycle Have you ever noticed how far away from the front tire a dirt bikes fender is ? There Is a good reason for that.
Everytime I start my bike the engine runs but it doesn't give any power. Last time it did that i bought a new spark plug and it worked fine, but now it just runs until i stop but doesn't give power. Any idea what it probably is?
Your Name Here - Sounds like you are running too rich of an air:fuel mixture. If your spark plug is jet black, it is too rich and you will not ignite fuel properly. If it is a cocoa color it is perfect, but if it is quite tan it is too lean. Check where your clip is on in the jet needle. The lower the notch, the richer the mixture. Good luck!
One clip position up is leaner. They usually like it. Everything else is useless info! Throttle cable slack/ adjustment is not tunning! Neither is idle screw going to do anything for performance tuning other than idle speed. As far as electrical tape goes- well a cleaner and better set up is to use a thin smear of Ultra Black on the intake before installing carb. If you are using throttle cable for idle issue than you have other issues.
At full throttle does it sound normal up until a certain point, and then at a certain speed is loses power and makes a different noise that sounds like it's firing half of the time? If so, mine has the same problem. It's called 4 stroking. It runs fine with the muffler cap on but when I take it off it 4 strokes at 25 mph. I tried countless things. Advanced and retarded timing, new banana exhaust that's supposed to act like an expansion chamber, no air filter, different oil mix, etc. Nothing worked. I ended up leaning out my jetting. Went from a 70-61 jet and it stopped 4 stroking and spark plug looks decent. I can't help but think that I need a better exhaust instead of basically a straight pipe. Idk.
+Josh Bosseler . . . .damn. put your exhaust back on and put that clip in the middle or one clip up from the middle. your way rich! thats your problem. should solve everything.
the parts that you think are carburetor adjustments, ARE NOT! those parts are connected to the cable housing, they are cable tension adjustments so that the cable inside the cable housing slides properly.
I've had a couple with crap in the needle and seats. Remove the carb. Remove the bowl (2 screws). Remove the needle valve. Clean the fuel inlet and needle valve. Carefully reassemble in reverse order. The parts are tinny and sensitive to dirt so work over a clean area. A towel helps catch any small parts that get dropped.
First off you only want it on the 2nd to the top groove secondly make sure you use synthetic oil and mix it at 25 parts to one.never leaner than that if you want the motor to last make sure your plug is gapped at .035 thousand of an inch make sure the air filter spoonge is lightly oiled with 2 stroke i dip it and squeeze it out real good.and always remember its a gravity feed carburetor so dont go angling the bike very much loading or unloading it if you leave fuel in the bowl as it will run into the combustion chamber.keep in mind anew carb costs about 10 bucks so just replace it if need be
When I full throttle, my engine doesn't get super high on rpms like it should (not a ton of power). My bike can barely move on a flat... Could that be a loss of compression or what? One of my piston rings might be broken. I will do what you did in this video, but would it be the piston rings? I am kinda sure I broke when when assembling the top cylinder, but I haven't ran the engine too much. It maybe has a mile and a half. The engine still seems to run fine and I will fix the piston ring like asap and I won't run the engine, but is anything damaged possibly?
+Ass Tumor (I'm on my other account). Thank you so much. I replaced the ring and then I realized that the cylinder head screw was on at an angle. Everything is good now. Thank you so much.
My bike started bogging so I thought maybe is a stock carburetor so I bought a little better one and it still bugged and stuff I got the a new stock carburetor put it on and still bogging and not getting power wont idle at a new spark plug got a new CI thing change the gas change the lines got spark to the spark myself anybody got any ideas
One thing I like to do, on those black punisher air filter covers is drill a hole dead center between the two screw holes "with it off the carb and the round foam out of the way " so in the winter time you can spray in a quick blast of starting fluid if need be. I know you could spray it up from the holes on the bottom but most of it drips out
Lightly turn in the idle adjustment screw til it bottoms. Stop. Turning in to tight will damage the screw. Turn the screw out (counter clockwise) 2- 2 1/2 turns. This should put you in the ball park.
Adjust your cable with the filter assembly removed. Look inside or place a finger inside the carb opening. Twist the throttle to fully open. The slider should reach top of bore. If it doesn't adjust the cable accordingly. Begin adjustment at top of carb and finalize at the upper adjuster. Try not to use up more than half of the threads of either. Too few threads and you will eventually strip them lose from stress as you continually use the throttle.
Start the bike. If it doesn't idle, turn the adjustment screw in until it does. If it idles to high, turn the screw out til you have reached proper idle.
Before starting your bike for the first time, remove the spark plug and add a tablespoon or so of oil into the plug hole. With the plug still out, push the bike forward a few feet to pre lubricate the cylinder. Reinstall the plug and ride on.
would that damage it or no
How do i know when it idles good? When it barely runs?
@@theirishvolunteer6643 you ever figure it out
good tip for the carb to intake mounting! esp like the pedal with full choke to oil up the cylinder on first start up. never heard that before. most ppl just recommend squirt a little 2 stroke oil into the spark plug hole. maybe both?
break-in is very important with these little 2 strokes
11 turns plus a quarter was just what I needed thanks for the vid was helpful
Nick Lablanc are you counting turns as 360 degree rotations, or turns by hand or screw driver which would be more like half turns(i.e. the part of the screw head at 12oclock ends up at 6 o'clock but still looks like it was rotated 360°). The only reason I ask is because the screw on my carb is essentially as far in as it goes at 11 turns, so as far as tuning goes there's literally a 100% difference between a turn being 360° rather than 180°
Chris Carr I did 11 screws 360 with my hand and used to screwdriver only for the last quarter cuz it made it a little bit earlier I'm very very new into this hobby I wish I could give you more help but I hope things work out for you man
All that screw does is raise or lower you idle setting it does not affect the fuel/air mixture. Just set it to the idle level that sounds good to you and the engine isn’t dying or racing.
@@nicklablanc7731 mine doesn't have more than 9 full turns.
@PeachFuzz Network did you ever figure it out? Mine dies if I don't hold the clutch down
Thank you so much, ThunderHead!!! My bike build was giving me a headache, it's my first build on my own. Did every single thing you said including a tight seal, I even used an electrical tape too! LOL and she runs likes a beauty now when before it wouldn't start! Yay! Thank you again! Liked and Favorited, and subbed! :D
Glad to hear it!!! Most feedback I get from the MB community is so negative for whatever reason lol
Negative feedback is because your telling people they need to change their air/fuel mixture if they adjust the idle....Idle adjust just changes how far the throttle is open. it does not change the air/fuel mixture.
@@ThunderHead289 You ever have a problem with gas just pouring out of a tiny hole In the carburetor??
Ben adjusting it and doing everything I can't get it to stop leaking
The screw on the side is the idle adjuster screw NOT a mix screw. It simply opens the throttle slide and lets in enough air and gas to idle. The adjuster on the top of the carb simply tightens the throttle cable. It's important not to have any play in it. It needs adjusting so you get instant response when you twist the throttle. There is NO mix screw. The ONLY way to adjust the mixture is by altering the needle setting. There are videos that show how to do this.
Nice bike man. I recently gave my motorized bicycle engine to my friend (got paid well) and it runs pretty good after cleaning the carb with carb cleaner. Though now it has one issue. Motor sat for a few months and the engine seems to be breaking up at high rpm only when it's warmed up (when the engine is cold it hits 30 mph. When warm it only goes 23 mph and sounds like it's breaking up) Before I took the engine off motor ran great all the way to the max rpm even at temp. I cleaned the carb and the spark plug (gap is the same but runs rich).
The story from start to end. I swapped the engine over to his bike from mine, I attached it to the bike with zip ties as I did not have a way to safely secure the front engine mount. #becauseroadkill
I got the bike running for a few minutes and then the engine sputtered bad enough that it ran. Once I cleaned the carb and the spark plug (then duct taped the choke lever which was loose to the open position and it ran great all the way to max rpm. (Until it warms up). Once it warms up the engine starts breaking up and it's running rich. I did put way too much oil in the first tank but the next tank will be 32:1. Went 23 mph in it. Before i swapped it it went 30. I'm guessing the ignition box (also ziptied down) is dying or there is a short in the connection.
#becausethunderhead289
i would personally inspect the entire engine from spark issues,down to exhuast leak or vaccum leak on the manifold of the carb..and the carb itself...
Pp ppl no LLP ól3❤ look my r😂😮
thanks so much. i just bought an hp carby but the performance was shit. i did all these tips and itsbetter than it was before. great vid 😊
you have good taste in music
I cant believe that wasn't a copyright infringement
took the end cap off my 48cc motor exhaust canister today and WHOA, much more speed, loud, but in Russia nobody cares.. She sure was restricted.
+Царь бббомба watch the spark plug to see if it's lean.
Царь бббомба awesome
Царь бббомба let me know if you need any help I would love to travel to Russia and meet new friends
Царь бббомба
How much faster?
I did the same with mine but it still runs weak. My bike needs me to pedal up hill
THANK YOU. I didn't know that about the vacuum leak. That was my problem
put an 0-ring in the carb intake. also the side screw should raise or lower the throttle slide to set idle
This worked like a charm getting my bike going. Thank you!
There is NO MIXTURE SCREW on a NT carb! The screw on the side just limits the lowest position of the slide, thus determining your idle rpm (if the cable is not too tight). The idle RPM must be adjusted from the screw and after that the cable must be adjusted so there is just a litle bit of free play when you start twisting the throttle.
Disassemble the nt carb and observe how the screw works 👍
great background i love the datails
Is ur fuel filter on backwards?
Was about to make that comment. Will do
i used to put mine on opposite how he has his, but then i saw the arrow.
It sure is. How can you tell if you got crap in It?
That filter is upside down definetly
Mine stumbles a bit at first. Just popped a new carb on today. Fired right up. Just need to understand the tuning.
Proper procedure would be to screw the throttle handle adjustment all the way in, screw in the carb throttle cable adjustment until there is some slack in the cable and then adjust your idle speed with the idle speed screw on the carb side, then adjust the throttle cable carb adjustment to take up any slack in the cable...the throttle handle screw can then be conveniently screwed out to take up slack from stretch as time goes on.
Still waiting on my 66cc Gt7 from Gasbike. Thanks for the tips
Your vacuum leak problem describes what i am having issues with exactly. Idles fast when not under load, and revs down slowly. Thank you so much. Is there any other places that often have this same issue?
Sorry I just realized this is super dooper old video, Help me out if you can at least. Thanks
Hi,good explanation body, you did very good, I think this guy when I bought this new bike w. 80cc doesn't know like you explained.
Question?? my bike at first I drove in the Ally only, it was fine but when I got home I smells gasoline, is licking all around under the top of the carburetor, I don't know why? I think this guy does not understand much about the all information like you explain very well, now I am trying to put an other carburetor in the bike but I don't know much about this bike S.......any idea why is licking?? thank you.
Sounds like your float is stuck and not moving the needle up in its seat.take the screws holding the float bowl (bottom half of carb) make sure the needle is attached to the bowl and it goes smoothly back in to its sest while attached to the float now with the bottom off and the float dangling down lightly blow into the fuel inlet with a section of fuel line and gently raise the float until its level which if correctly done should not allow anymore air to enter the fuel inleti actually had to slightly heat up the plastic tab on the float and slightly bend it up so it would shut off fuel flow when the fuel bowl was full.i had the same problem as you and it hadent leaked before that for the first month then one day i saw fuel leaking out as you did
Sorry i meant needle attached to the float not bowl anyways its going to be the carb float causing the leak but one other place known to leak is the gas tank bolts because they arent very strongly attached to the thin metal tank so do not go more than a little snug on them as for me i took a torch to the top rail and then wire brushed off the burnt paint so it was bare metal then i did yhe same with ylthe underside of gas tank.i drained it first and rinsed it with watet then left a little water in it before i baked the paint off with a torch.i did all of that because i wanted a good bond with the jb weld that i spread all over the underside of gastank i let it set overnight and now i never have to worry about the studs leaking on the fuel tank because i didnt even use them
should I use one of those cool looking filters that come with the HP carbs? What about taking out the baffle in the exhaust? Which jet do you recommend?
You should start charging but not me...lol
Thanks
You could buy one of those but why not just drill a few extra holes in the air filter cover and get the same results?
For the idle adjustment screw, I’ve found that taking the screw out completely and making 3 1/2 complete (360 deg) turns in is a good starting point. Altitude will come into play for some riders, but this should put most engines close to where they need to be.
hey thunderhead. i just got my motorized bike going she runs smooth. only thing i seem to notice is after i get her going whenever i squeeze the clutch in to stop the engine revs really high it seems. after a good 10 minutes of riding this seems to go away its usually only the first few stops after i start it.
+wsol9103 sounds like it is just lean when it is cold. this is alright, just make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks. id say richen your mix screw 1/4 turn and do the trick on the intake i did in this video with the electrical tape.
That not a fuel air air mix crew. It only adjust the idle of the engine.
Just turn the idle adjustment screw counterclockwise a bit it will bring the rpms down. If it doesn’t then adjust the throttle cable where it has a tiny bit of slack. This adjustment is on top of the carb and at the twist grip.
Are you telling me the adjustment you make on the throttle cable adjusts the idle speed. and the screw on the side is the fuel mixture.... BECAUSE I'VE BEEN ADJUSTING THE SIDE SCREW TRYING TO GET THIS THING TO IDLE CORRECTLY
I just bought one of these bikes and it was already put together and I don't really know how the clutch supposed to work it don't seem to work properly I'm not sure how to start it. I would appreciate your help by the way I paid 200 for it and it does run but I don't know how to operate it.
Thanks a lot the tips really helped.
i just installed an 80cc motor on a mongoose 29inch the frame was a very tight fit but i was able to get it in with some modifications but the carburetor i had sitting in there sideways and it was leaking gas by the primer. does it matter which position the carburetor is ? i apprecaite all your videos . thank you
Yes the carb will leak out of the overflow and primer of its tilted too much
I actually bought the aftermarket one with a offset intake manifold much better
Yes offset intake is the best way to go on these, if the carb isn’t level there will be problems as the float can’t work properly.
There a push primer button beside the turn screw on the carb . Push it a few time if you have not started it in few days.
Where can I buy a new screw for my idle
Some needles have 5 notches and some have 4 and mine has 4 but for my combination the 3rd notch is where it runs best
I try start mine up for the first time with full choke it started up fine but soon as I clothes the choke it shuts right off? Thank you for your help if you can.
did you make it work?
I have 2 49cc's, newly broke in. Now they will only run whilst priming the carb. Suggestions please.
Thank you thunderhead! Great tips very helpful!
ever notice some motors have the plug angled toward the intake and some toward the exhaust? wonder if that makes any sort of difference at all.
No it doesn’t make any difference
What do I do if , I have to open choke to start every time.??what does that mean ??
here's my situation my bike starts fine but it has hardly any power whatsoever anymore and everytime I come to a stop I can't keep it running with the clutch in. basically it just keeps on stalling out and running like crap
Kevin Rivard clean the carb and replace the spark plug. Also inspect the choke and make sure you don't have too much oil in your mix gas
Peter Kapica thank you
how did you fix it?
Kevin Rivard remove the bottom exhaust cap and your air filter your bike will run great I know more than everyone else
Kevin Rivard
;
Thank you for these awesome tips Thunder Head
My bike was running great but now it barely runs and only with the choke on? Any ideas?
Kelley Gene sounds like youre carb needs a clean
thnaks man! i tryed this today and now my bike stays running. only problem im having now is thAt its idling real high and wont stop. what do u think? vaccum leak inbetween the carb n engine?
yes, or your adjustment up on your throttle is too high!
+ThunderHead289 i had my adjustment on my throttle ran far down like u show in the video. i tightend it back a few threads & tht helped it idle down a bit but its stil idling real high.
& when u say turn the idle screw "10 or 11 turns in" do u mean full of half turns?
loosen the idle mix screw a bit to drop the idle - it richens the mixture. see how that runs. richer is always safer
if its only revving high with the clutch in, thats a vaccum leak around the carb.
thats my issue now. runs wild
My engine started to sputter and run really rough. It will start, but backfires around the carb area. Just when it seems to clear and rev up again it backfires again and runs rough. Any ideas?
I believe I have the same engine but it won’t fit on my bike 😪 now I’m in search of another bike
I will try you recommendations insomuch as I've been struggling for a while because after replacing my head gaskets, the bike will not idle down. I also tried a new carburetor and throttle to no effect, because right now she's just wide open.
sounds like your head didn't seal properly. You have a vacuum leak.
Do these carbs have an air/fuel mixture?
I think my bike might be running lean cause at high speeds/loads it sounds like it's misfiring and not getting enough fuel to combust. Although after watching your video I think I might have a slight vacuum leak and am gonna try spraying around carb cleaner
Hey I can't make my motor bike idle new engine and stuff any suggestions
im 6'3 400lbs & my bike reach 33mph today i was shocked!
thats good as bro!
dam that bike is the truth
My dicks 11 inch and it weighs my bike down luckily with this video iv been able to get up to 65 mph
Where can I buy a new carb screw I can't find one anywhere or I might be asking for the wrong thing
Are you still answering questions here?
You sound like Hank from king of the hill.
What I was thinking.
Hello it's me again :D i'm just having some trouble with the carb, when I push the choke down, then get going and fire up the engine, the choke goes upwards and the motor just dies. (sometimes it keeps going but slower) if I put it all the way up the bike doesn't work. so I have to keep pressing the choke down to get it going. (when I want to keep going after it was going) I hope you know what I mean. please help and thank you soooooooo much for the help so far. you're the best! also it wont start with the choke up. I have to physically push it down to make it work.
+COOL CANADIAN here is how i start my bike in the cold, i peddle to about 8 or ten miles an hour with the choke closed, drop the clutch and let the engine spin, it will usually fire up, and as soon as it fires up, i flip the choke open and keep giving the engine a little bit of gas so it will idle until the engine is warm enough to idle on its own. i then will actually ride it. i sometimes use the primer button on the carb in conjunction with the choke to start the engine. does this make sense?
ThunderHead289 ok sorry for this question when the choke is up is it open or closed?
it is closed when the lever is up
ok thanks :)
+COOL CANADIAN Try half way down, like he said the choke is closed when all the way up on these carbs. Pedal and start the engine, once it gets running, push the choke lever all the way down, this opens the air to the carb all the way open. The purpose of the choke lever is to give the engine a more fuel rich fuel/air mixture to help it start, once the engine is running you want to ope the choke lever all the way open to let he air in the carb.
Hey man, just a question, I have good spark and compression but my bike just won’t start... any tips??
did you figure it out?
Tony B no I’ve given up, just can’t get it to run...
@@jellezwart9155 did you try the spark plug in a lawn mower to make sure the spark is strong enough? I'm sure you have tried a lot of things just trying to think what the problem is
Tony B yeah the spark is good, I’ve changed all electrical components (better spark plug, new coils) but still nothing
@@jellezwart9155 well you checked the stuff I would have looked at first. I imagine you looked at the carb already, if it isn't that then IDK either. I would have to see it in person.
Hey quick question. I haven't ran my motorized 80cc bike in about 10 months. Started it yesterday and it's rev at what seems to be full RPM and it's blowing a lot of smoke any ideas on what to look for? Cheers mate.
craig scheibel too much oil in the gas and the idle is too high
craig scheibel it’s smoking because maybe your fuel was off
craig scheibel my 80cc dirtbike does that to
Because its sat idle for 10 months most of the fuel in the engine crankcase has evaporated but the oil hasnt, hence the extra blue smoke, dont worry it will be fine.
So my bike won't start at the middle notch on the pin, only on the bottom one or the one above it, but at those two spots it pretty much revs uncontrollably and gets extremely hot(keep in mind we just had a huge winter storm so it's pretty damn cold out) in like a minute and eventually just stalls out or stalls as soon as I engage the clutch. While it's running I've essentially moved the screw in and out in every position, as well as adjusted the throttle cable, which has a slightly too short casing so if the screws aren't basically all the way out more than half of the throttle travel is just pulling up the slack, but I still tried it and no dice. I'm wondering if having cut the intake like half an inch shorter could be the cause, so the air filter would fit while I wait for an offset manifold, or maybe something else? I also noticed some fuel on the engine that is seeming to drip out of the air filter 0_o any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Wait, when you say 11 turns, are you counting a turn as like a turn of a screwdriver (so like 180° if that), or a full 360° turn? Because from the screw being pulled out mine doesn't even go 11 360° turns unless I'd put significant force on it to make the last maybe 540° or 1 ½ rotations
Never make the intake shorter! You can extend it yes but never shorten it. This is your problem.
another problem!!! :D my bike is under performing. i made sure there isn't a vacuum leak or and gunk in the carb.
i just got my bike to start & run but it wont stay running on its on so im gonna try this tomorrow n see if she sTAy running
I've had eBay engines that are extremely tight. They require break-in. Each time they are started, they run a little longer before getting hot and quitting. Ride it a short distance and let it cool. Ride it a little farther each time until you can go a half mile or so without stopping. This procedure has worked for me.
I was always taught to "Loosely Hand Tighten" the screw and then "Back it Out" the Required amount. Not remove it and then put it back in "Some Amount". What am I doing Wrong???
Your right video boy is wrong lightly seated and 21/2 turns out
did you buy this kit from 99motor on ebay too?
I'm looking to put one of these together this summer and trying to find the best motor kit. Thanks!
rcajane I use Amazon
Is your gas filter turn the correct way. i have an arrow on my filter . check it.
What altitude are you at? I'm 528ft above sea level, so I'm wondering how your settings would compare.
hi guys, can you please tell me if you can.......I have a new 80cc 2 stroke engine kit on my bicycle, went together well but now the engine won't rev much, not enough to propel the bike & me on it! I checked/cleaned all the usual stuff carb/plug/throttle cable/vacuum leaks etc. All seems fine, I live in Ireland and used your fuel mix as close as possible in litres/ml, (16:1) again mix seems ok, a mechanic friend of mine thought it was the carb at fault as he took the barrel/needle out of the carb while keeping his thumb on the opening while engine was running, he said the engine should be screaming/revving it's brains out at this stage, but still only revved a bit kinda like a fast idle, so I again dismantled and cleaned the carb. It looks fine and you'd expect it to work when I put it on, but no! Please send me any suggestions you can.
Regards
P.S. it's a NT carb...........
Alan Roche, try backing the screw out a bit.
set your camera focus to spot instead of centerweight
My discover bike problem. When I start the bike it starts and remain in idle, but when I accelerate a bit the engine shuts off.
What is the problem?
PAVAN KUMAR open the choke to let air in
PAVAN KUMAR im dead 💀 🤣🤣
hi my throttle cable is loose how do i fix it ? soon as i started it max speed by it self
Edward Modeste tighten it
I had this issue, the carb isnt setup properly, watch some videos on how to setup the pin, barrel and spring in the carb. I had the spring on the wrong side so it was holding the valve open rather than shut.
I Don't think they understand the problem you're having. It's pretty common with these kits to have loose tolerances, especially in cables, which means the cable housing on the throttle cable is sometimes mere centimeters too short so you can literally unscrew the adjustments on both the carb and throttle assembly completely and there will still be slack. Best thing to do is just deal with it unless you want to buy a new cable. You could also buy a cheap thing of cable housing and cut the tiny bit you need to pick up the slack and add it between the existing cable housing and adjustment screw on top of the carb. You may also have an air leak if the engine is revving up all the way upon starting. At least that's what I've read while trying to figure out why my bike is doing the same thing. To check if it is indeed your cable you can simply pull off the air filter and look in the hole. If the black slide is lifted up like it is when the throttle is wide open, the cable is pulling it up. If it's not, it's not the cable. It's unlikely a loose cable will cause tension on the slide and lift it simulating a wide open throttle though because the cable has to be pulled tight for that to happen, not be slack
Well, so I took the screw all the way out, screwed it in ten full turns and it stopped right there. It is seated. I would imagine that it should be screwed out a few turns? Say, oh two and a half...? Something? I can't imagine it wants to be left seated down tight. Any suggestions?
I don't think he meant 10 to 11 turns, he probably meant half turns. Mine also only has about 9 or 10 full turns.
moi j'ai déja 648 km , a mon vélo 80 cc , je roule tous les jours avec démarre au car de tours, vitesse maxi 26 pouce 46 km/h , 28 pouce 55 km/h
ricko56 l salut sur mon velo le carbu ne laisse pas passer l’essence au cylindre
How about those HP carb!, are they much better! thanks
Okay I took off the end part of the exhaust and 1. It got loud 2. it went fast but only for a quick minute like 15 seconds and then back to slow how it was when it was on so why does that happen
Like your vid but is that 10 - 11 complete turns or half turns?
I'd have to imagine I meant half turns. There's no way it would be in there with that many full turns.
Lightly seat it and go 2.5 full turns out and play with it while its running from there until the idle is where you want it
Dear Thunder,
On the idle adjust, do you mean ten FULL turns? Also, what does the little spring loaded pump on the side of the carb do?
it injects fuel
The pump on the side is a fuel primer. That screw is not a fuel/air mixture screw it only raises or lowers the idle setting.
hallo chief,,i have problem with the spark plugs.after 3-4 kilometres are black..i have given 600 euro for repair but nothing..it has rich gasoline mixture i think..also there is a leak of gasoline in the switch even ..
xristos mitroulakis you are running it to to rich try 45:1 instead of whatever ur doing
or use plumbing tape! its better than black tape! good info but every motor runs different for real!
Im getting ready to do my first build and have the same 29 inch bike, is an easy build? seems like everyone builds 26 inch bikes. any tips for me? thanks
+sunnylandcamper its not hard, but not the easiest. its not the sturdiest bike ever, the fender nuts and all need to be lock tighted. also, youl need different handle bars because the bars on the bike are too big of diameter. you will also need to add a brake to the front and when you put the rear sprocket on, you will need to bend the coaster brake around it for clearance.
+sunnylandcamper I watched a buddy of mine go ass over teakettle because the fender caught the tire then folded up under the fork and almost killed the kid The job they do just is not worth the trouble they can cause on a motorized bicycle
Have you ever noticed how far away from the front tire a dirt bikes fender is ? There Is a good reason for that.
The air/fuel pin with the flathead slot fell off my carburetor. Can I screw a new one in or does this require me to disassemble the unit?
"Idle adjustment screw"
just screw in a new one with a spring....the kits come with a spare usually...
@@Centar1964 Thanks! I appreciate the reply. I've upgraded to a 1050cc motorcycle though 😂😂
if you want more power take the bottom of the muffler cap off
Have you put a 56 sprocket on your bike
My carberator does leak fuel when in push the button on the carberator does that mean I'm not getting fuel to the engine
Does it doesn’t my friend ?
When you say 10 or 11 turns in on the idle screw do you mean full 360 degree turns?
Mine doesn't have more than 10 full turns. He probably meant half turns.
Everytime I start my bike the engine runs but it doesn't give any power. Last time it did that i bought a new spark plug and it worked fine, but now it just runs until i stop but doesn't give power. Any idea what it probably is?
Your Name Here - Sounds like you are running too rich of an air:fuel mixture. If your spark plug is jet black, it is too rich and you will not ignite fuel properly. If it is a cocoa color it is perfect, but if it is quite tan it is too lean. Check where your clip is on in the jet needle. The lower the notch, the richer the mixture. Good luck!
My bike got stolen lol thanks anyways
Your Name Here no suprised they stold my 2 48cc 4 strokes aswell smh people these days dont know how to offer to buy or ask for anything no more.
All those adjustments you made can singularly be done with the idle screw. And the amount you turned it in is a high idle. Why?
Not so.
Dude wen my gas valve is all the way on like it should be to run gas is pouring out of the back of my carb..I dont understand why
Because your float needle and seat assembly is stuck open - either the float is hang no up, or your needle and seat have trash in them.
your genesis cruiser bike is really nice. unfortunately, it's out of stock or way over-priced
One clip position up is leaner. They usually like it. Everything else is useless info! Throttle cable slack/ adjustment is not tunning! Neither is idle screw going to do anything for performance tuning other than idle speed. As far as electrical tape goes- well a cleaner and better set up is to use a thin smear of Ultra Black on the intake before installing carb. If you are using throttle cable for idle issue than you have other issues.
I jus got mine does anyone know how to make it faster? Mine goes only 12 mph
Hey I put a thrust muffler on my stock carb with high performance head it bogs out some what should I do
At full throttle does it sound normal up until a certain point, and then at a certain speed is loses power and makes a different noise that sounds like it's firing half of the time? If so, mine has the same problem. It's called 4 stroking. It runs fine with the muffler cap on but when I take it off it 4 strokes at 25 mph. I tried countless things. Advanced and retarded timing, new banana exhaust that's supposed to act like an expansion chamber, no air filter, different oil mix, etc. Nothing worked. I ended up leaning out my jetting. Went from a 70-61 jet and it stopped 4 stroking and spark plug looks decent. I can't help but think that I need a better exhaust instead of basically a straight pipe. Idk.
and my throttle needle thing in carb is 1 before the bottom should I raise the c clip up
+Josh Bosseler . . . .damn. put your exhaust back on and put that clip in the middle or one clip up from the middle. your way rich! thats your problem. should solve everything.
If my pin has 4 notches which do you suggest to put it on?
David Rivera just keep adjusting until it runs good try second one down first
Wow so great!
My motor revs like a runaway diesel when I pull the clutch in?
Turn down the idle!
my bike will not start and I have to ride it to work tomorrow what do I do
Start walking...lol...sorry
+Dan smith I'm good now I bought Chevy 2500 to Chevy 2500
cool
the parts that you think are carburetor adjustments, ARE NOT! those parts are connected to the cable housing, they are cable tension adjustments so that the cable inside the cable housing slides properly.
Any tips if my fuel is coming out the intake?
I've had a couple with crap in the needle and seats. Remove the carb. Remove the bowl (2 screws). Remove the needle valve. Clean the fuel inlet and needle valve. Carefully reassemble in reverse order. The parts are tinny and sensitive to dirt so work over a clean area. A towel helps catch any small parts that get dropped.
hay my bike is running rich and i have it set to the top of the needle is there anything i can do?
First off you only want it on the 2nd to the top groove secondly make sure you use synthetic oil and mix it at 25 parts to one.never leaner than that if you want the motor to last make sure your plug is gapped at .035 thousand of an inch make sure the air filter spoonge is lightly oiled with 2 stroke i dip it and squeeze it out real good.and always remember its a gravity feed carburetor so dont go angling the bike very much loading or unloading it if you leave fuel in the bowl as it will run into the combustion chamber.keep in mind anew carb costs about 10 bucks so just replace it if need be
When I full throttle, my engine doesn't get super high on rpms like it should (not a ton of power). My bike can barely move on a flat... Could that be a loss of compression or what? One of my piston rings might be broken. I will do what you did in this video, but would it be the piston rings? I am kinda sure I broke when when assembling the top cylinder, but I haven't ran the engine too much. It maybe has a mile and a half. The engine still seems to run fine and I will fix the piston ring like asap and I won't run the engine, but is anything damaged possibly?
It wouldn't get high rpms straight from the start
+Ass Tumor (I'm on my other account). Thank you so much. I replaced the ring and then I realized that the cylinder head screw was on at an angle. Everything is good now. Thank you so much.
Fuel filter direction ?
My bike started bogging so I thought maybe is a stock carburetor so I bought a little better one and it still bugged and stuff I got the a new stock carburetor put it on and still bogging and not getting power wont idle at a new spark plug got a new CI thing change the gas change the lines got spark to the spark myself anybody got any ideas
Fucking awesome information man thanks!
i have a high idle problem. any idea to seek out the problem
Sounds like a vacuum leak or running too lean. Especially if you turn your slide adjustment all the way down and it's still high
Where can I buy mudguard like yours?
Good
What altitude are you at