Ford 8in / 9in Ring and Pinion Gears Install. With Pinion Preload, Gear BackLash, Pinion Depth Tool
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ย. 2018
- I was installing new ring and pinion gears into an 8in rearend, for a 1968 Ford Torino GT, and decided to film the 3.80 gear swap process. Its basically the same procedure for a 9 inch rearend. I did my best to do everything as good as possible, but I did make a couple mistakes that i talk about, and would do a couple things different the next time around. I talk about a lot of general gear swap info, show the pinion preload, doing gear backlash measurement, and the ring and pinion contact patterns. I used a pinion depth tool, and talk about the process. I did make a general instruction sheet for the whole process. Here is the link to the page with the instructions. desertratracer.com/ford-8in-9i... If you have any questions please leave a comment, and I will get back to you.
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Rebuilding my 8” today
Glad I found your vid will help a lot
Cheers
Nice, if you have any questions let me know. 🍻
Very well done video. I'm just beginning to rebuild a Ford 9 and most if not all of your info is helpful. Been turning wrenches most of my life, but this will be my first rearend. As soon as I stop typing I'll be making those brackets to fit my engine stand.
Thanks I’m glad you got some use out of the video. Hopefully everything goes smoothly. Nice, those brackets are definitely worth it. Working on the engine stand is nice. If you end up needing any help just let me know and I’m glad to help.
Well worth the hour to watch - thanks for the detailed install. The 8” from my ‘65 Falcon is getting a limited slip and 3.55 gears and the center section is in my shop right now so this is extremely helpful!
Nice, Thanks. I'm glad you got some help from it.
great video, very in depth and love your research you did before rebuild. this video is going to help alot. Thanks
Thanks, Yea did tons of research to make sure it went well. There is a link in the description that takes you to the instruction list I made to help. If you run into any problems feel free to hit me up.
Awesome job , well explained
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks for going to such detail on the video. I'm about to help a friend with his and this gave me more confidence that I need.
You’re welcome, confidence is good. Good luck with it… if you have any questions I can do my best to help.
I watched the first 7 minutes. I will watch the entire video when I have the time.This video is awesome. I am going to share it on Facebook. Thanks for doing the video..
My Torino cool, Glad you like it. I could of done better in a few parts, but it basically covers all the important details.
Is a 1986 F150 an 8 or 9
When you have a dry bearing to install over a shaft, use a common old style Hot Plate to heat the bearing and it will drop over the shaft without tapping or hammering on the bearing. you should use PLIERS to handle a HOT bearing, do not touch it with your hand.
Thanks for the info. I’m normally not a fan of the heating methods, but I’m definitely considering them more.
So helpful thanks a lot!
No problem, You’re welcome. 😎🙌
Thanks for sharing I appreciate you sharing how to correctly set up the gears. I missed the crush sleeve process was wondering how to properly achieve correct preload and how to know when to stop! Very good presentation!
Thanks, No problem. Basically you put the pinion assembly all back together with new crush sleeve, new seal, and nut with locktite. you will keep tightening until there is no back and forth slack from the pinion in the pinion housing. Then you can start measuring the preload. You need an analog in-lb torque wrench to measure the rotational force. That will let you know how much preload there is. This is the hard part, you need to tighten in small increments ... and keep checking preload measurement as its easy to tighten too much. Preload is new bearings 22-23 in-lb with seal 25 in-lb, old bearings 15 in-lb. There is a lot of info on this, but I prefer 25 in-lb with seal in, as once its set you shouldn't take it back apart. The crush sleeve is supposed to be one time use / set only. Then rotate the pinion with the torque wrench to see how much force its taking. Then just stop when you hit the right amount of inch pounds. Make sure to check a lot as stated before, because you don't want to tighten too much. I show this part in the video starting at 24:25. also here is the link to my website with the video and instructional sheet I made. desertratracer.com/ford-8in-9in-ring-and-pinion-gears-install-with-pinion-preload-gear-backlash-pinion-depth-tool/ ... Hopefully this helps, if i can help with anything else just ask.
Desert Rat Racer Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
@@ronaldlewis6062 no problem, you're welcome
Awesome video great info
Thanks, glad you got some use out of it.
Excellent, Thanks, I just so happen to doing a rebuild with ratio change from 3.00 to 3.55 and a Powertrax, talk about good timing. Thanks again for making it so easy to understand.
You're welcome. Nice, I'm glad it was helpful, and on time. What type of vehicle and rear end are you working on?
76 Pinto Pony MPG......with a 302/C4, recently made sub-frame connectors, and rear leaf springs have had a new and adjustable mounts front and back.
wrastu Nice, That sounds cool to drive. I can't imagine those weight much.
2450 in production trim, removed the 5mph bumpers guts but the SBF adds about 200lbs. I am guessing about 2800lbs with me in it, however if all goes well add whatever a 6-71 will weigh also. LOL
wrastu Yea, that's light, not to mention the weight of the wheelie bar.
That was excellent having issues with the 8 inch axle in my street rod really enjoyable and subscribed UK Fan
Cool thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it. If you need help with anything just let me know.
Interested in the book and the info you had written down if you dont mind would help a lot thanks
@@Freebird67 I’ve used a couple books recently.
1. 1968 Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon, Montego, Mustang Factory Shop Manual
Has a good section on the rearends.
eBay is a good place for that, but can google search and find some other places.
2. Petersen’s big book of auto repair.
The one I have covered from 68-78, and also covered rearends pretty good.
eBay and Amazon are both good places for this.
I’ve recently got a 1968 factory rearend book from ford, but mostly all the same info just a little more in depth. That’s kinda hard to find.
Also here is the link below to my website with the Instruction sheet I made for myself.
desertratracer.com/ford-8in-9in-ring-and-pinion-gears-install-with-pinion-preload-gear-backlash-pinion-depth-tool/
If you need anything else just let me know.
Thanks for the video, I'm rebuilding a 9 and this helped reinforce a few things. I wouldn't go through chasing a half a thousandth, unless I was also measuring things at the temperature it would see. I'm betting things are going to expand at the 100-200F that these get, throwing off all kinds of tolerances. For 0.0005, you could maybe use spray paint on a shim, and measure again when dry.
no problem, glad it helped. you're probably right on chasing half a thousands, but if I remember right making note of it helped my final shim decision. I just subscribed and checked out the fiberglass transmission mockup. That seems like a cool idea... never gave that much thought.
@@DesertRatRacer subbed to you too bro, keep up the videos!
@@TEAMPHY6 cool thanks, will do!
Excellent reported.
Thanks 😎🙌
very good instruction, would have been good to see your adjuster tool in action
Thanks for the feedback. It got the job done and saved a little money. I recently got a factory ford rearend service book and they show using 2 separate and over foot long adjuster nut wrenches when doing case spread.
Pipe dope in the splines
Pipe dope in the splines for what?
♥️♥️♥️♥️
😎🙌😁🙏
Hi cool vidéo, Can you tell me how do you get the "marked pinion depth" measurement ? Thanks
Thanks. For aftermarket gears it should be etched on the pinion gear from the manufacturer. can see at 16:16 in the video. I don't know if oem gears are marked. I use original shim measurements on oem gears if reusing them, and if I know the rearend was good.
😎😁
1) How can you measure the spread at a 45* angle?
2) Measuring backlash the dial indicator plunger must intersect at 90* angle the straight radial from the shaft center to the ring gear edge.
If you're not at 90* you're getting an incorrect reading.
At 1:00:20 it appears that you angle is about 110*. So your lash is more than your reading.
If your lash reading varies around the gear it might be the indicator is not exactly the same angle every time.
New gears set up tighter lash than used gears because the machining tool marks on the teeth will wear off.
3) Interesting that you used the really light duty early Falcon 3rd member housing.
4) I always use a solid spacer rather than a crush sleeve.
JMO 😎
BTW
If you're reusing gears note that ratios divisible by .25 are repetitive. That means the same teeth always mesh together. They don't randomly change mesh.... Therefore those repetitive gears must be reinstalled with the same teeth meshing. Those gears are also scribed when new with "timing marks". Or you can paint or punch marks.
If you miss it, they will wear in again and probably make noise.
JME
If you use a homemade spanner using strap iron and bolts you can weld an old socket in the middle and set "spread" with a torque wrench. Much more accurate and easy.
1. I just wanted to roughly see the spread as I was doing it by feel / eye as that's all I had to work with at the time. I also do say in the written instructions that go with the video to use a wiggle bar and a dial indicator. The Two posts method with a 90 Degree angle alone still isn't the best, using the wiggle bar in addition makes up for any angular motion that happens during the spread.
2. I agree that's probably the best way to get a reading, some books show this while others don't. I'm not sure about it being an incorrect reading if not at 90 degrees to shaft. Multiple things I've read also allow for up to 0.003 variation. I do want to experiment with this though next time I work on one.
… and yes basically all specs are different between new items and used items on these rear ends. In this video I was using a new set of aftermarket gears.
3. I had broken the original housing to the Torino, and that was the only one I had easy access to. Not really sure what that housing was from, never checked the numbers. I just remember it didn't have the fill plug in the front of the housing.
4. If I start building rear ends for a serious race car I want to use some solid spaces. Basically for the ease of maintenance and the possible high power problems. For the these stock to mid range performance cars these crush sleeves work great and come with the rebuild kits... so saves some money.
@@hotrodray6802
Yea good point I normally just use some paint to mark used sets so they go back together the same way. Haven't thought much about some being non repetitive and maybe not requiring it... I'll keep that one in my head too.
@@hotrodray6802 That would be a quick way of building a spanner wrench. Although I've been able to use mine on a few different things because its adjustable. I'll look into the torque wrench idea... Haven't heard about that.
On my new 66516 tool I just purchased, when i set the dial indicator using the gauge tube, when I take tube off, the needle moves .014". Starting at about 39 minutes into the video, you calibrate using the tube and set everything dead on at 2 inch. When you take the tube off, the dial drops back about .006". To me, that makes the 2" calibration .006" off. That needs to be "mathed" in, correct. You will not be measuring from .000". You have a .006 difference, correct ?
I think for me it was easier to setup that way because I know it's bottoming out and not giving a incorrect reading. Then when it gets to perfect 0.00 when starting the measurement the extension rod is at exactly 2in. So as long as you do the math / reading from 0.00 where it's calibrated at 2in then it works as it should. When done setting it up you can also double check the settings on the depth side of the dial caliper. See if a 2in measurement goes to 0.00 correctly, maybe take a 1in measurement too, etc...
Have you assembled this to your car and driven it? Did it came out to be a silent gearing?
Co39V8 yes, I've done 2 vehicles with this exact method and both are driven frequently and are quiet with no problems.
I use VidIQ which allows me to see tag words ect. You should add some tag words and that will help when people are searching for video's.
My Torino ok, Thanks for looking out. I added a bunch of keywords, but they must not of loaded right. 😎🙏
@@DesertRatRacer They are there now.
My Torino Excellent *Mr. Burns Voice.
On that (ring gear)I’d think actual torque would be less important than evenly torqued , so 65 to 80 with red lock tite shouldn’t be a problem, as others have mention pre heating tight fitting parts let’s them install much easier
Yea 80 is kind of hard to do on these, but yea makes sense. I do need to get more comfortable with the heat method of installing bearings. I have noticed some companies have different tolerances on the input shaft for the bearings, making some harder to install then others.
Hey, thanks for this movie... I am rebuilding 8" differential for 67 mustang and thanks to Your movie it will be much easer. I was just wondering... where did You take "marked pinion depth" from? This 1.189 ... was it in instruction or is this a stock value? I have stock gears in and have no idea what this pinion depth schould be. Please HELP :)
Szymon Jędrzejewski no problem. If you buy a new set of gears the manufacturer will give you the info. For us it was marked on the face of the pinion gear by the manufacture and is the spec we needed. If you reuse the original gears you can measure the depth before fully taking apart. Also if reusing original gears you can use the same size pinion shim you took out as this will give you the same specs / depth you would need. If you need me to show the marked depth in the video I can find the time stamp, or if you need any other help just let me know.
@@DesertRatRacer I will watch the movie again. I am using old ring and pinion and I didn't check anything before disassembly 🤣... so probably masuring old shims is the best idea. Thanks.
@@DesertRatRacer I would like also to ask You... in the internet I have found spreadsheet where it sais that for new bearings there is 12-14 inch/LBS for pinion bearing preload for ford 8"... you are using 25 inch/LBS... am I mixing two different things and not understanding something? I have to translate everything to my language and recalculate values to metric and nm... so... could You explain it to me... why there is this difference?
@@SJTRANSFORMATION The difference in pinion bearing preload is between new bearing and old bearings. Also having the seal installed or not can effect result. If you reuse old bearings then 8-14 inch/lbs in general. if you are using new bearings then 20-30 inch/lbs in general. There is lots of ways that people do this. Some with seal installed and some not. Since there is a crush sleeve if should only be done once. I recommend doing it with seal installed, and 25 inch/lbs rotation for new bearing, and 15 inch/lbs rotation for reuse of old bearing. In my research for old bearing 15 inch/lbs is good but I normally use new bearings. Also in my experience for new bearings 25 inch/lbs with has worked great for me.
@@SJTRANSFORMATION yes, cool no problem, You should be ok, but in the future its good to mark ring and pinion also so you put gear teeth back in the same spot. Basically so you can put if together the same way it came apart.
Hey brother , could you help.me out with a question about this hose coming out of the valve cover closest to the fire wall on my 2005 dodge neon 2.0l . I just got it and found this hose not connected to anything.
yea, i would need to see it to be 100% sure but its probably just part of the crank case vent that runs down to the intake. Check out this video ... th-cam.com/video/iiiRqAxTluM/w-d-xo.html ... Is it that hose or another one?
I appreciate it brother. I checked out the pcv valve but theres another one behind the valve cover. I'll try and get you a picture. Thanks again
Hey brother. I'm getting a vibration in my 2.0 dodge dart at 3thousand rpms . I do have an aftermarket exhaust and a CAI. And thoughts. It vibrates till I get it out of the 3 thousand range and it happens when I am pushing the car. Thanks bro
Whats up, No Problem. First I would think to narrow it down. Does it happen when you're driving or does it happen in park too? If it happens in park then its probably something to do with the engine or transmission like engine / transmission mounts or harmonic balancer. If it only happens when you drive then its probably something connected with moving like wheels, cv joints, etc... I would narrow it down then start inspecting stuff. I did see online that some were saying the engine mounts wear out quick in these at 40.000 miles or so too. So that is something to checkout first after you narrow it down.
Thank you brother I appreciate it.
@@desertstyle8460 No Problem, anytime
Jesus Christ hold the camera still.
Thanks for watching the video. Since this I’ve got a better camera and a gimbal to help stabilize video. Plus I’m working on another 9in video that will be filmed and edited better.
DONT WATCH, if your looking to start from scratch and pull it from rear end and put it all back together then don't bother with it, waste of time