CORRECTION: Thanks everyone for the comments. My math was off. The Dana manual says: If the old pinion reads ( + ) 2 and the new pinion is (-) 2, add .004" shims to the original shim pack. So a negative number gets subtracted from the nominal bringing it closer to the pinion and a + number brings it farther away...
Paul, thanks for this video. I would encourage you to do more of these differential videos if you want to branch away a bit from transmissions. Your way of explaining things would be a big improvement from all the other videos that I have watched. We all appreciate your attention to detail and the extra little tips that we receive from you so please go for it. We will enjoy and learn I am sure.
EXCELLENT. Loved the time taken to touch on shop safety. Nobody gets a "hardass" award for losing an eye, getting their throat cut from a cutting wheel, or losing fingers. Excellent video altogether. Top notch.
Differentials have been "the last frontier" on cars for me. I've removed axles to change outer bearings and seals, but nothing else. ETCG just made a video about putting a kit in his father's truck diff, but I didn't quite get it. Your video helped me understand a lot. Also, as a DIY/hobbyist, it's refreshing to see a real master using "regular tools". I priced your bearing cone heater from another video and gave up the fantasy of owning one - so happy to see you using a heat gun (already have one). Thanks for sharing your knowledge here.
Even though I'm not going to do a dana 44, the science was really good and applicable for other setups. Thanks for taking your time to put on these schools, good stuff.
Just finished watching the video. I just marvel at the decades of experience, knowledge so hard come by, communicated in such a simple method in only 46 minutes. Can you boys imagine how hard this simple job for Paul would be for us fellas if this video wasn't here. And Paul's giving away these decades of experiential knowledge FOR FREE! Absolutely mind bottling!
Absolutely 💯... Was just talking bout this subject not to long ago.... That's why people pay what they do when needing a service of any kind... You're paying for someone time that they dedicated to learn to do the " How To" what he did in 45 minutes will take me half a day or longer. And today technology has allowed people like this guy to pass on a smidge of his knowledge to someone else. Thank you
Great timing for me to see this video. I'm getting ready to change the pinion bearings in my landlord's jeep commando and swop out the front ring and pinion in Jeep. Now I have all the information I need to get both jobs done. Thanks for your excellent tutorials. I watched your tutorial on rebuilding my Muncie 4 speed. It really gave me the confidence to get it done right. Been running it for almost a year now and it works great!! Thanks again.
Hello Paul, just want to thank you for the amount of time and effort spent filming and editing these excellent videos. It is truly appreciated by myself and all your faithful subscribers. Thank You.
Thanks for the tip on using a heat gun for the bearing. I used my cheap Harbor Freight heat gun and it put out 300 degrees of heat on the bearing. Once the bearing got to 150+ I dropped it right onto the pinion, no fuss, no muss. You saved me a lot of drama.
Genius way to verify/check pinion depth and you are right, much cheaper than buying the tool. You just saved me more than a couple hundred bucks. Thank you!
I'm in the middle of freshening up a badly rusted Dana 60 Front, GM King Pin. Your video was a great help, Thank You! Now I've rebuilt 12-bolts, 10 bolts, 14 bolts, but this Dana 60 Front has been a labor intensive endeavor simply because of the crude engineering of the shim placement. I use an OTC bearing splitter exactly like yours and have even sharpened the leading edges to minimize damage to the shims as well as the carrier and the pinion. It still wiped out the shims and rolled a bit of a shoulder on the carrier, nothing a file couldn't take care of. One surprise was the "lock bolt/pin" that locks the spider gear pinion shaft in place inside the carrier. I had thought the previous mechanic had broken the bolt and reassembled the unit. Wrong, this Dana 60 uses a 3/16" x 2" roll pin! I didn't realize this until all my extractor efforts failed and I resorted to punching out the spider gear pinion cross shaft shearing the roll pin. I then realized that Dana has a hole completely through the carrier to drive that roll pin out. Tough lesson, a six pound hammer and a 3/4" bull pin drove that cross shaft right through that roll pin and right on out on the 3rd blow, no damage. Oddly enough there was exactly .100" thou. of shims split 65/35. I actually used a small bottle jack under the pinion sitting on a 4x4" tube steel leg off my engine puller. I used grab chains suspended from each end of the axle supporting the steel tube. That allowed me to use the small hydraulic jack to push up the center of the housing while the chains held down the axle tubes and I was able to open the case .005" of an inch one thou at a time. The dial indicator let me know how far and also let me know when everything sprung right back to zero. To bad those Corporate 14-bolts don't come as front axles because they're way easier and stronger than the Dana 60's...I think I may look into a reverse rotation gear set for a 14 bolt and use Dana 60 King Pin castings and yokes...? Thanks again for this and all your videos, I like your no BS way of explaining things! ;)
Video was extremely timely given issues I am having with Dana 44 rebuild. You have taken a complex process and broken it down so the average person can readily understand the procederual steps involved in pinion bearing preload drag and carrier bearing 'math' to assist in setup. Thank you for the great video and assist; your presentation skills are excellent.
If I have to replace my pinion bearing, i feel confident in doing so after watching your video! Simply amazing! You're very good at what you do! Thank you very much!
Learn more in less time from watching your video than anyone would watching all the others put together. You're like the godfather gearboxes and diffs ;)
I'm getting ready to rebuild my D44 front on my ram, the pinion is so loose I can shake it around with the driveshaft. Most of the other videos on TH-cam either skip things or just leave out parts. I learned a lot from this, especially about preload. I plan on installing a lunchbox locker for off roading and have a cable actuator to replace the vacuum disco. Thanks for posting this
I learned a lot from your video..... including how to use race and bearing drivers, installing and removing bearings using pullers and heat guns, and setting pinion preload. I really enjoyed watching, and liked your very informative instructions and tips. Thanks !
How technical, you were able to hold my attention from start to finish. That's good stuff and just the way I I like it, you are obviously a master at your chosen profession, my hat is off to you sir, keep up the good work and the videos. Thank you so much.
The best video I ever watched. I've learn so much, and it was so interesting that I didn't realize the video was 45 minutes long. It seemed to be a lot less. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. For sure I subscribe immediately.
Really helpful! Now i´m gonna go out and dissassemble the diff on my Volvo C202 (Dana 44´s from Salisbury) and do a pinon bearing swap. Thanks for sharing your knowlege!
Nice money shots at 7:25 ;) You do really well with the AV equipment you have... In addition to being wonderfully educational. Lots of headache-saving tips for the DIYer, thanks!
Very well described . This is what I do for a living. I have replaced may pion seals and never replaced crush sleeve and so on. Other parts of you video great job.
GREAT VIDEO. I HAVE A TRUCK PROJECT THAT I'M MAKING PROGRESS ON, I HAVE THE MOTOR DONE EXCEPT FOR THE ACCESSORIES. I HAVE A SM465 THAT I JUST GOT THE COUNTER AND MAIN SHAFT INTO, SOME TORQUING AND PTO COVERS AND IT WILL BE DONE. I WAS GOING TO REBUILD THE 2O5 TRANFER CASE, BUT FOUND A GUY THATS BEEN IN THE. MANUAL TRANSMISSION REBUILD FOR 36 YEARS AND HE IS SELLING OFF HIS STOCK, SO GETTING A GREAT DEAL ON A 205. THEN ITS TIME TO MOVE ON THE DIFFS , MINE ARE NOT DANA 44, THINK THEIR ARE C 10 ,I DID CHECK THE BOLT PATTERN BUT FORGOT. YEP ITS COMING TOGETHER. WANT TO THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR ADVICE AND HELP AND THE VIDEOS.
Hi, Your experience is priceless, your videos are classic. Why I’m saying your videos are classic? Because today’s day we don’t do that type of repairs specifically in car dealers. It always pleasure to watch your videos because whoever watching your videos they learn something including me. Thank you for sharing your hard lifetime experience to the world.
Hey Paul. I am so glad you did a video on the Dana 44 (another Super Job by the way). I have rebuilt a GM 8.5 with a new center section and was looking forward to doing a Dana 44. I read a lot about rebuilding the Dana 44 and am glad to hear the spreader is not required, though everything I read stated to use the spreader for the Dana differentials. Keep up the good work; everything you do is of great interest to me. Marc
On the jag rear there are no dowel hole points for a spreader. A spreader makes life easier and usually the full housing rears have spreader inserts. You can do it without one but if you have to mess with changing the ring and pinion you may want to make some slip fit carrier bearings and get a spreader, since it may take several attempts to get backlash dialed in.
Great video. It also shows how important having a bit of knowledge about the underlying mechanisms which you’re using to be able to actually do this job DIY. Your experience is obvious. But I appreciate your attention to detail and your explanation. I’m listening to a slight whine in my Dana44 now and I will be referring to this video when it’s time to rebuild. Thanks
Sweet trick using ground bar stock and a depth mic to check pinion depth. We used housing spreaders back in the day when working on Dana 70’s & sometimes 60’s. It doesn’t take much to “spread” the housing enough to pull the diff out. BUT, those things can be dangerous when using on an axle in chassis!!! They can and WILL fall out of the dowel pin holes on the housing and could break an arm or two. Very heavy tool. We would chain them up in such a way that if they slipped out of the dowel holes, the chains would keep it close to in place. Great and thorough video! Thanks for posting👍🏻👍🏻
That really was well done. I like how you used an old transmission case to hold the pinion while pressing out the bearings. Also how you supported the pinion when reinstalling. All good tips. I have to go through my Dana 44 on my Studebaker and this helps a lot. Thanks.
Very good! Great explanation! I want to regear my Cherokee and this was a good review at the end of your video. I did what you did on an Chevy Astro van I had just bought with a noisy rear end. The vent tube fitting came off and the housing filled with gravel. Fortunately the gear set was okay but the bearings were hamburger. Kept the shims the same and it worked out great. I fixed the vent tube...
Well I think I got about 1/1000ths of this. Only because I am totally clueless but I can’t help but look at your amazing knowledge and the complexity of these devices. Thank you for sharing.
Great advice on safety precautions when using chisels, especially air hammers. I’ve had “shrapnel” from just a cold chisel and hammer go into my hand when removing bearings off axels.
I want to ditto Joe Clark. You do an excellent job of explaining. I would love to add a posi to my chevy van. Now looking at your video, I feel like I can. I will be looking more of your videos. Thank you
Thanks. I am thinking about buying a ’85 CJ7 and the owner says it has a bad pinion bearing. Now I know what I would be getting into if I should decide to try the repair on my own. Great video.
this was an excellent video..i like the way you work and talk .......you have a good way of teaching,,,,,,,and a good attitude and no cursing,,,,,,,,,,,great job........thankyou
Thanks for this fine work. The explanation with the details is very cool and it is practical and scientific at the same time. We appreciate your effort in making this video. You contribute to publishing your experience to all people for free. God bless you
So after several trial and error installations, I finally got it set right, THANKS TO YOU! The tight spot I mentioned came from the yoke against the new seal. There is a sheet metal collar around the pinion side of the yoke that was corroded and deformed. I removed this collar and my tight spot went away. The new seal was different than the old one. Not sure why...new and improved? Ugh...but I'm on the downhill run now!
i like videos of people that know their stuff,your good,i worked at a GM dealership for many years,i was taught by a man similar to you ,in other words he knew his stuff
This video is definitely a confidence builder,it's very helpful.I have been wanting to do my own rears and with this I am a little closer.You said you sell that tool you were showing for the bearings I would be interested in that tool...Thanks again for a great video.
Paul, Great instructions and presentation. I was lucky to have a friend who was service manager at Ford to borrower the spreader for the Dana 60 to put 4:56's in my Street Hemi, otherwise, I would have been S.O.L.. Gee, a little over 60yr. ago. already. BTW, use to go out to NY National Speedway, in your neck of the woods, or was that potato farms.😃
This is the best explanation of differential bearing replacement I have seen to date. I'm faced with not only bearing replacement but the ring and pinion as well. It might sound extreme but since all the spacing (shimming) will probably change, which will require assembly and disassembly a couple of times to get my shimming correct,, would it be best to buy an extra rear pinion bearing and the carrier bearings (outer races) and lightly hone them for making them easy to install and remove. After I have my shimming established I could then install fresh tight bearing races for final assembly. Any thought you have about this would really be appreciated. Knowing what goes into this job makes it extremely scary when it comes to letting a local mechanic's shop do it, not to mention the cost.
Great video, I am currently debating changing my own gears in my Dana 44's ( I work as a Millwright currently ) and after watching your video I know I will have the confidence to do this.
So I'm about to replace pinion and carrier bearings on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Dana 44A(aluminum alloy housing) I brought it home, new to me, and it had a whine. Removed the cover and the gear oil was mettalic. No metal chunks. I sprayed it out with brake cleaner. So the carrier caps are not on correct, as you have described, as well as other video's described. So the line bore was all out of whack...I bought a new bearing kit and will be changing them soon. I hope my carrier caps will be ok, and not distorted enough to be beyond use.
Wish I had one. The splitters can do some damage, bend the cages, put more pressure on the ends of some rollers than others, etc. The splitters have tapered 'blades' that rarely match the bearing perfectly. On a carrier, it's difficult or impossible to get a splitter perfectly seated. I honestly don't recall how I removed carrier bearings with a splitter and didn't damage the bearings.....but I have a pair of 44 setup bearings that I made years ago so somehow I did it (I am too cheap to buy new bearings and grind them out).
I know this is several years old but my 1974 Chiltons manual says the nominal pinion depth is 2.625. Regardless it's all about the patten. Good general information and better than most.
Great video! I was a little confused about shimming the pinion. The Jaguar shop manual says zero is 2.625 and a plus correction moves the pinion face away from the ring center (or forward) and a minus correction closer to the ring center (aft). Do you disagree with this? Thanks.
Well explained, great video angles and video quality. Only watched two videos so far, very promising: good advice for an amateur like myself that doesn't have the complete professional setup, but have sufficient experience banging my thumbs with a mallet. Subscribed of course.
Thanks for the commentary on leaving out the crush sleeve when mocking up the gears to check pinion depth. I see so many videos where people cause themselves extra time, money and aggravation using a crush sleeve (and sometimes even a new pinion nut...) for no reason. It shows they don't understand how it works.
I used the extra crush sleeve to check pinion to ring gear pattern because that's the way I was taught. I've heard on videos before you don't need a crush sleeve just to put the pinion in to check the pattern with the ring gear, However wouldn't the preload be on the bearing then, to where you wouldn't be able to rotate the pinion when you put the specified inch pounds of preload on the bearings instead of on a crush sleeve?
@@1970351C2V what I mean is if you're putting your pinion and carrier (with ring gear) in to check the pattern, to make sure it's on, before you do the final assembly, if you don't torque it with a crush sleeve and thus need two crush sleeves, could you have NO crush sleeve, and just put the required inch pounds on without( any crush sleeve) just to check your pattern?
Now that I'm into this and I get it now , it's just a starting point. man I've had like 3 people tell me to just torque the pinion nut down to the specify torque reading and I'm good,,,,, well their nuts and I'm glad I watched your video! like 5 times! Thanks
I sure enjoyed the lesson and I am eager to get my front differential done it's a dana 44 closed knuckle on a '68 ford f250 4x4 highboy thank you again for your help
This is still the best differential video here on the 'net, I came back to watch again. If there is discordance between the ring gear paint impressions and measured pinion depth, which do you believe? Do you find yourself overruling the factory guideline for measured pinion depth to try and get a better imprint on the ring gear? Is pinion depth just a faster way to assemble the diff because it quickly gets you close without having to take everything apart to try again with different shims?
Excellent video. Makes a change to watch a well flowing video with just the right amount of talking. I have a Salisbury diff in my Land Rover, which appears very similar. I am about to add a diff lock, and the thought of setting the carrier afterwards was a little daunting. I assume in most instances you set the pinion up at the required preload and just move the carrier left to right in order to get the desired pattern.
Appreciate the video my man.... What you did is exactly what I'm about to do... I bought a GM Dana 44 front that needs complete rebuilding of all seals bearings all the way out to the hub the carrier and gear set seem to be in good shape... Thanks for the insight
Thank you for this, a great step-by-step explanation of this difficult task. I don't get why you would want to change shims/shim depths or shim distribution - could you please explain? Will this procedure work on the Jeep Grand Cherokee 44a (Aluminium case) diff? Many thanks from Switzerland!
Good video with some great tips especially around pinion depth shimming and heating the bearings. I found this at the perfect time as I am refurbing my Jaguar E type diff!. You might want to update the title with XKE or E Type. Thanks again from Oz
Great videos and books! I would have checked backlash and pinion depth during disassembly. I understand your reasoning for not checking backlash during assembly, but I would have checked before and after just for comparison. You could have pointed out to manually Check backlash by hand to make sure it exists if you aren't going to use a dial indicator. Once again great books & videos!!!
Andrew Evans no point on checking backlash when you have wasted bearings. That's pointless. Remember. It had severely damaged bearings. If the pattern check is ok (which it was) after the repair..you're good to go.
CORRECTION: Thanks everyone for the comments. My math was off. The Dana manual says: If the old pinion reads ( + ) 2 and
the new pinion is (-) 2, add .004" shims to the original shim pack. So a negative number gets subtracted from the nominal bringing it closer to the pinion and a + number brings it farther away...
For those of us who learn by watching not reading, tips and tricks are priceless. Keep up the good work Paul always a pleasure watching your videos.
Thank you!
Hell yes. Came across this problem managed to diagnose it but couldn't find help anywhere til now appreciate it
Paul, thanks for this video. I would encourage you to do more of these differential videos if you want to branch away a bit from transmissions. Your way of explaining things would be a big improvement from all the other videos that I have watched. We all appreciate your attention to detail and the extra little tips that we receive from you so please go for it. We will enjoy and learn I am sure.
EXCELLENT. Loved the time taken to touch on shop safety. Nobody gets a "hardass" award for losing an eye, getting their throat cut from a cutting wheel, or losing fingers. Excellent video altogether. Top notch.
Differentials have been "the last frontier" on cars for me. I've removed axles to change outer bearings and seals, but nothing else. ETCG just made a video about putting a kit in his father's truck diff, but I didn't quite get it. Your video helped me understand a lot.
Also, as a DIY/hobbyist, it's refreshing to see a real master using "regular tools". I priced your bearing cone heater from another video and gave up the fantasy of owning one - so happy to see you using a heat gun (already have one). Thanks for sharing your knowledge here.
great video. I like the way you dispel the old myths and wives tales of assembly.
Even though I'm not going to do a dana 44, the science was really good and applicable for other setups. Thanks for taking your time to put on these schools, good stuff.
Thanks
Just finished watching the video.
I just marvel at the decades of experience, knowledge so hard come by, communicated in such a simple method in only 46 minutes.
Can you boys imagine how hard this simple job for Paul would be for us fellas if this video wasn't here.
And Paul's giving away these decades of experiential knowledge FOR FREE!
Absolutely mind bottling!
Absolutely 💯... Was just talking bout this subject not to long ago.... That's why people pay what they do when needing a service of any kind... You're paying for someone time that they dedicated to learn to do the " How To" what he did in 45 minutes will take me half a day or longer. And today technology has allowed people like this guy to pass on a smidge of his knowledge to someone else. Thank you
Always fun to watch someone do this, when I don't have to.
Great timing for me to see this video. I'm getting ready to change the pinion bearings in my landlord's jeep commando and swop out the front ring and pinion in Jeep. Now I have all the information I need to get both jobs done. Thanks for your excellent tutorials. I watched your tutorial on rebuilding my Muncie 4 speed. It really gave me the confidence to get it done right. Been running it for almost a year now and it works great!! Thanks again.
Hello Paul, just want to thank you for the amount of time and effort spent filming and editing these excellent videos. It is truly appreciated by myself and all your faithful subscribers. Thank You.
Thanks so much for watching. It means a lot to me.
I’m getting ready to do a 44 and have probably watched 100 videos, this one explained the “why” better than any. Thank you!!
Thanks for the tip on using a heat gun for the bearing. I used my cheap Harbor Freight heat gun and it put out 300 degrees of heat on the bearing. Once the bearing got to 150+ I dropped it right onto the pinion, no fuss, no muss. You saved me a lot of drama.
That is "The" best done video on how to work on a vehicle I've seen. You really know your stuff. Fantastic.
Amazing video Paul! You deserve to have way more subs than you have, one of the best channels on TH-cam.
Thanks. Appreciate you subscribing and watching.
Genius way to verify/check pinion depth and you are right, much cheaper than buying the tool. You just saved me more than a couple hundred bucks. Thank you!
I'm in the middle of freshening up a badly rusted Dana 60 Front, GM King Pin. Your video was a great help, Thank You! Now I've rebuilt 12-bolts, 10 bolts, 14 bolts, but this Dana 60 Front has been a labor intensive endeavor simply because of the crude engineering of the shim placement. I use an OTC bearing splitter exactly like yours and have even sharpened the leading edges to minimize damage to the shims as well as the carrier and the pinion. It still wiped out the shims and rolled a bit of a shoulder on the carrier, nothing a file couldn't take care of. One surprise was the "lock bolt/pin" that locks the spider gear pinion shaft in place inside the carrier. I had thought the previous mechanic had broken the bolt and reassembled the unit. Wrong, this Dana 60 uses a 3/16" x 2" roll pin! I didn't realize this until all my extractor efforts failed and I resorted to punching out the spider gear pinion cross shaft shearing the roll pin. I then realized that Dana has a hole completely through the carrier to drive that roll pin out. Tough lesson, a six pound hammer and a 3/4" bull pin drove that cross shaft right through that roll pin and right on out on the 3rd blow, no damage. Oddly enough there was exactly .100" thou. of shims split 65/35. I actually used a small bottle jack under the pinion sitting on a 4x4" tube steel leg off my engine puller. I used grab chains suspended from each end of the axle supporting the steel tube. That allowed me to use the small hydraulic jack to push up the center of the housing while the chains held down the axle tubes and I was able to open the case .005" of an inch one thou at a time. The dial indicator let me know how far and also let me know when everything sprung right back to zero. To bad those Corporate 14-bolts don't come as front axles because they're way easier and stronger than the Dana 60's...I think I may look into a reverse rotation gear set for a 14 bolt and use Dana 60 King Pin castings and yokes...? Thanks again for this and all your videos, I like your no BS way of explaining things! ;)
I'm digging the clamshell puller! Learn something new every day.
Brilliant summary! I've been waiting to find this video for over 5 years.
Great video, good information, good recording, basic tools, couldn't ask for more...
Thanks
Bro i love how you explain and make your videos educational.. Solid gold keep explaining like you do.. Two thumbs way up
Video was extremely timely given issues I am having with Dana 44 rebuild. You have taken a complex process and broken it down so the average person can readily understand the procederual steps involved in pinion bearing preload drag and carrier bearing 'math' to assist in setup. Thank you for the great video and assist; your presentation skills are excellent.
If I have to replace my pinion bearing, i feel confident in doing so after watching your video! Simply amazing! You're very good at what you do! Thank you very much!
I want to thank you for taking the time to make this video, great information!
What a pleasure it is to watch a man who very obviously knows what he's talking about !!
Thanks
Learn more in less time from watching your video than anyone would watching all the others put together. You're like the godfather gearboxes and diffs ;)
I'm getting ready to rebuild my D44 front on my ram, the pinion is so loose I can shake it around with the driveshaft. Most of the other videos on TH-cam either skip things or just leave out parts. I learned a lot from this, especially about preload. I plan on installing a lunchbox locker for off roading and have a cable actuator to replace the vacuum disco. Thanks for posting this
I learned a lot from your video..... including how to use race and bearing drivers, installing and removing bearings using pullers and heat guns, and setting pinion preload. I really enjoyed watching, and liked your very informative instructions and tips. Thanks !
Appreciate the feedback. Thank you.
How technical, you were able to hold my attention from start to finish. That's good stuff and just the way I I like it, you are obviously a master at your chosen profession, my hat is off to you sir, keep up the good work and the videos. Thank you so much.
The best video I ever watched. I've learn so much, and it was so interesting that I didn't realize the video was 45 minutes long. It seemed to be a lot less. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. For sure I subscribe immediately.
Thank you
One of the better videos on setting up a differential, very well presented, THX
Really helpful! Now i´m gonna go out and dissassemble the diff on my Volvo C202 (Dana 44´s from Salisbury) and do a pinon bearing swap. Thanks for sharing your knowlege!
Great video mate. It’s not a full course on diff building but for a novice it was SO easy to understand and made things self evident.
Great video, Probably the best I’ve seen on the Dana 44. Subscribed!
Nice money shots at 7:25 ;) You do really well with the AV equipment you have... In addition to being wonderfully educational. Lots of headache-saving tips for the DIYer, thanks!
Thanks for watching
This is the best video I have found explaining the entire process. Thank You.
Very well described . This is what I do for a living. I have replaced may pion seals and never replaced crush sleeve and so on. Other parts of you video great job.
Just wanted to say thanks I learned a lot from this video you should make more videos
Thank you for making this video ...it all sounds so simple yet is so complicated...I learned an awfully lot..I'll leave an apple on the desk teach.
GREAT VIDEO. I HAVE A TRUCK PROJECT THAT I'M MAKING PROGRESS ON, I HAVE THE MOTOR DONE EXCEPT FOR THE ACCESSORIES. I HAVE A SM465 THAT I JUST GOT THE COUNTER AND MAIN SHAFT INTO, SOME TORQUING AND PTO COVERS AND IT WILL BE DONE. I WAS GOING TO REBUILD THE 2O5 TRANFER CASE, BUT FOUND A GUY THATS BEEN IN THE. MANUAL TRANSMISSION REBUILD FOR 36 YEARS AND HE IS SELLING OFF HIS STOCK, SO GETTING A GREAT DEAL ON A 205. THEN ITS TIME TO MOVE ON THE DIFFS , MINE ARE NOT DANA 44, THINK THEIR ARE C 10 ,I DID CHECK THE BOLT PATTERN BUT FORGOT. YEP ITS COMING TOGETHER. WANT TO THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR ADVICE AND HELP AND THE VIDEOS.
Thank you
Hi,
Your experience is priceless, your videos are classic. Why I’m saying your videos are classic? Because today’s day we don’t do that type of repairs specifically in car dealers. It always pleasure to watch your videos because whoever watching your videos they learn something including me. Thank you for sharing your hard lifetime experience to the world.
Thank you
Hey Paul. I am so glad you did a video on the Dana 44 (another Super Job by the way). I have rebuilt a GM 8.5 with a new center section and was looking forward to doing a Dana 44. I read a lot about rebuilding the Dana 44 and am glad to hear the spreader is not required, though everything I read stated to use the spreader for the Dana differentials.
Keep up the good work; everything you do is of great interest to me.
Marc
On the jag rear there are no dowel hole points for a spreader. A spreader makes life easier and usually the full housing rears have spreader inserts. You can do it without one but if you have to mess with changing the ring and pinion you may want to make some slip fit carrier bearings and get a spreader, since it may take several attempts to get backlash dialed in.
Great video. It also shows how important having a bit of knowledge about the underlying mechanisms which you’re using to be able to actually do this job DIY. Your experience is obvious. But I appreciate your attention to detail and your explanation. I’m listening to a slight whine in my Dana44 now and I will be referring to this video when it’s time to rebuild. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Okay, I think I'm a pro now.. Headed to the driveway, wish me luck!
Yea...cudo's me too
Thats right
HAHAHAHA love it hope you managed
@@jebediahdavis871 Haha yep, I nailed it!
Topless 08civic
Sweet trick using ground bar stock and a depth mic to check pinion depth. We used housing spreaders back in the day when working on Dana 70’s & sometimes 60’s. It doesn’t take much to “spread” the housing enough to pull the diff out. BUT, those things can be dangerous when using on an axle in chassis!!! They can and WILL fall out of the dowel pin holes on the housing and could break an arm or two. Very heavy tool. We would chain them up in such a way that if they slipped out of the dowel holes, the chains would keep it close to in place. Great and thorough video! Thanks for posting👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the comments
Thank you very, very much! This video must be placed on the top YT videos! Greetings from Brazil!
I wish
Great introduction to the internals of the Dana 44. Looking forward to further videos on this differential.
I'll be doing a ring and pinion change on one soon.
Really good instructional video - you will make a good teacher !
He is a teacher.
That really was well done. I like how you used an old transmission case to hold the pinion while pressing out the bearings. Also how you supported the pinion when reinstalling. All good tips. I have to go through my Dana 44 on my Studebaker and this helps a lot. Thanks.
Very good! Great explanation! I want to regear my Cherokee and this was a good review at the end of your video. I did what you did on an Chevy Astro van I had just bought with a noisy rear end. The vent tube fitting came off and the housing filled with gravel. Fortunately the gear set was okay but the bearings were hamburger. Kept the shims the same and it worked out great. I fixed the vent tube...
Thanks for this. Just picked up a 44 and now I know how to refresh it.
Well I think I got about 1/1000ths of this. Only because I am totally clueless but I can’t help but look at your amazing knowledge and the complexity of these devices. Thank you for sharing.
One of the best videos I've seen on d44 gears. Great job.
Great video Paul. Thoroughly enjoyed that.
Taking the mystery out of the black art of differentials.
Great advice on safety precautions when using chisels, especially air hammers. I’ve had “shrapnel” from just a cold chisel and hammer go into my hand when removing bearings off axels.
Awesome video! You took all the guessing out of my future project.
If you were close, I’d definitely bring my diff to you.
Thanks. I was doing diffs and rebuilding for years. Trying to cut back.
I want to ditto Joe Clark. You do an excellent job of explaining. I would love to add a posi to my chevy van. Now looking at your video, I feel like I can. I will be looking more of your videos. Thank you
Thanks. I am thinking about buying a ’85 CJ7 and the owner says it has a bad pinion bearing. Now I know what I would be getting into if I should decide to try the repair on my own. Great video.
this was an excellent video..i like the way you work and talk .......you have a good way of teaching,,,,,,,and a good attitude and no cursing,,,,,,,,,,,great job........thankyou
Thanks for noticing that. Much appreciated.
Great video. Going to try to put new bearings in my Dana super 44.
Watching this video just helped me decide. I'm having a professional rebuild the rear end in my Jeep. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for this fine work. The explanation with the details is very cool and it is practical and scientific at the same time. We appreciate your effort in making this video. You contribute to publishing your experience to all people for free. God bless you
Thank you for the kind words
So after several trial and error installations, I finally got it set right, THANKS TO YOU!
The tight spot I mentioned came from the yoke against the new seal. There is a sheet metal collar around the pinion side of the yoke that was corroded and deformed. I removed this collar and my tight spot went away. The new seal was different than the old one. Not sure why...new and improved? Ugh...but I'm on the downhill run now!
That trick with the bolt and the wrench with the pinion nut is sheer genius!
Really nice video !! Great to have such a clear and concise explanation for all the "why's" !! I'm a fan.
Thank you
Excellent education. You're a good teacher and a new valued resource.
I appreciate that!
Thank you very informative You filled in a lot of blanks for me as far as shims go now I have a better understanding. Thank you for your help.
i like videos of people that know their stuff,your good,i worked at a GM dealership for many years,i was taught by a man similar to you ,in other words he knew his stuff
This video is definitely a confidence builder,it's very helpful.I have been wanting to do my own rears and with this I am a little closer.You said you sell that tool you were showing for the bearings I would be interested in that tool...Thanks again for a great video.
Excellent video I love the presentation and the the photography excellent
Paul, Great instructions and presentation. I was lucky to have a friend who was service manager at Ford to borrower the spreader for the Dana 60 to put 4:56's in my Street Hemi, otherwise, I would have been S.O.L.. Gee, a little over 60yr. ago. already. BTW, use to go out to NY National Speedway, in your neck of the woods, or was that potato farms.😃
This is the best explanation of differential bearing replacement I have seen to date. I'm faced with not only bearing replacement but the ring and pinion as well. It might sound extreme but since all the spacing (shimming) will probably change, which will require assembly and disassembly a couple of times to get my shimming correct,, would it be best to buy an extra rear pinion bearing and the carrier bearings (outer races) and lightly hone them for making them easy to install and remove. After I have my shimming established I could then install fresh tight bearing races for final assembly. Any thought you have about this would really be appreciated. Knowing what goes into this job makes it extremely scary when it comes to letting a local mechanic's shop do it, not to mention the cost.
Yes. This is often done. You can get a bore polisher or hone. I have slip on bearings for several applications.
I've got two leaking Dana 44 pinion seals on my Rubicon. it's been a long time since I worked on a differential assembly. thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching.
Great video, I am currently debating changing my own gears in my Dana 44's ( I work as a Millwright currently ) and after watching your video I know I will have the confidence to do this.
So I'm about to replace pinion and carrier bearings on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Dana 44A(aluminum alloy housing) I brought it home, new to me, and it had a whine. Removed the cover and the gear oil was mettalic. No metal chunks. I sprayed it out with brake cleaner. So the carrier caps are not on correct, as you have described, as well as other video's described. So the line bore was all out of whack...I bought a new bearing kit and will be changing them soon. I hope my carrier caps will be ok, and not distorted enough to be beyond use.
That Clam Shell Bearing remover shows that necessity is the mother of invention. First time seeing it. Looks like it works good.
Works very well
Wish I had one. The splitters can do some damage, bend the cages, put more pressure on the ends of some rollers than others, etc. The splitters have tapered 'blades' that rarely match the bearing perfectly. On a carrier, it's difficult or impossible to get a splitter perfectly seated. I honestly don't recall how I removed carrier bearings with a splitter and didn't damage the bearings.....but I have a pair of 44 setup bearings that I made years ago so somehow I did it (I am too cheap to buy new bearings and grind them out).
Excellent Paul once again I learned so much from your tear down and rebuild. Btw it’s serves as an excellent tutorial :) thankyou
Best video on this subject for me. Cheers.
Love your videos. Your videos bring back some memories that are so strong that you can almost smell gear oil right through the screen. :-)
I know this is several years old but my 1974 Chiltons manual says the nominal pinion depth is 2.625. Regardless it's all about the patten. Good general information and better than most.
@@Wayne-x2n read the pinned comment
Great video! I was a little confused about shimming the pinion. The Jaguar shop manual says zero is 2.625 and a plus correction moves the pinion face away from the ring center (or forward) and a minus correction closer to the ring center (aft). Do you disagree with this? Thanks.
Read my pinned comment
Well explained, great video angles and video quality. Only watched two videos so far, very promising: good advice for an amateur like myself that doesn't have the complete professional setup, but have sufficient experience banging my thumbs with a mallet. Subscribed of course.
Great to watch a pro work..
Great video, you explained the pre-loading with the crush sleeve very well. thanks
You are a good teacher , thank you 🙏
Very informative from a guy with a very loud rear end '96 Grand Cherokee.
Thanks for the commentary on leaving out the crush sleeve when mocking up the gears to check pinion depth. I see so many videos where people cause themselves extra time, money and aggravation using a crush sleeve (and sometimes even a new pinion nut...) for no reason. It shows they don't understand how it works.
Exactly and sadly most written te h books from Ford or GM missed that important part as well
I used the extra crush sleeve to check pinion to ring gear pattern because that's the way I was taught.
I've heard on videos before you don't need a crush sleeve just to put the pinion in to check the pattern with the ring gear,
However wouldn't the preload be on the bearing then, to where you wouldn't be able to rotate the pinion when you put the specified inch pounds of preload on the bearings instead of on a crush sleeve?
@@frankpaya690 If rotational torque on the pinion is in spec you're fine.
@@1970351C2V what I mean is
if you're putting your pinion and carrier (with ring gear) in to check the pattern, to make sure it's on, before you do the final assembly, if you don't torque it with a crush sleeve and thus need two crush sleeves,
could you have NO crush sleeve, and just put the required inch pounds on without( any crush sleeve) just to check your pattern?
@@frankpaya690 Yep.
Now that I'm into this and I get it now , it's just a starting point. man I've had like 3 people tell me to just torque the pinion nut down to the specify torque reading and I'm good,,,,, well their nuts and I'm glad I watched your video! like 5 times! Thanks
I sure enjoyed the lesson and I am eager to get my front differential done it's a dana 44 closed knuckle on a '68 ford f250 4x4 highboy thank you again for your help
This is still the best differential video here on the 'net, I came back to watch again. If there is discordance between the ring gear paint impressions and measured pinion depth, which do you believe? Do you find yourself overruling the factory guideline for measured pinion depth to try and get a better imprint on the ring gear? Is pinion depth just a faster way to assemble the diff because it quickly gets you close without having to take everything apart to try again with different shims?
I go by what the factory says. These gears are run in on precision machines for optimal contact and noise. So I never stray from depth settings.
Excellent video. Makes a change to watch a well flowing video with just the right amount of talking.
I have a Salisbury diff in my Land Rover, which appears very similar. I am about to add a diff lock, and the thought of setting the carrier afterwards was a little daunting. I assume in most instances you set the pinion up at the required preload and just move the carrier left to right in order to get the desired pattern.
Appreciate the video my man.... What you did is exactly what I'm about to do... I bought a GM Dana 44 front that needs complete rebuilding of all seals bearings all the way out to the hub the carrier and gear set seem to be in good shape... Thanks for the insight
your videos are very very useful. just keep continue paul. tanks a lot for videos.
Thanks! That's a great tutorial, definitely will help me in rebuilding my series 3 Jag XJ6 center section.
Great!
The Dana 44HD rear diff. on my 73 International 1210 needs repair; what luck!
Thanks Paul!
Thank you for this, a great step-by-step explanation of this difficult task. I don't get why you would want to change shims/shim depths or shim distribution - could you please explain? Will this procedure work on the Jeep Grand Cherokee 44a (Aluminium case) diff? Many thanks from Switzerland!
If you change gears or the carrier assembly you will have to reshim. I've used the same shim dimensions when just installing new bearings
Good video with some great tips especially around pinion depth shimming and heating the bearings. I found this at the perfect time as I am refurbing my Jaguar E type diff!. You might want to update the title with XKE or E Type. Thanks again from Oz
Great tip! I updated the title.
Great videos and books! I would have checked backlash and pinion depth during disassembly. I understand your reasoning for not checking backlash during assembly, but I would have checked before and after just for comparison. You could have pointed out to manually Check backlash by hand to make sure it exists if you aren't going to use a dial indicator. Once again great books & videos!!!
Andrew Evans no point on checking backlash when you have wasted bearings. That's pointless. Remember. It had severely damaged bearings. If the pattern check is ok (which it was) after the repair..you're good to go.
Real nice job with the repair. Precision work. I like it, subscribed!
This is such an awesome video. I really like how thorough you are.
Thank you. Please share it if possible.