This was a great video. At work, I don’t really go this in depth into a differential. This made me feel like I was doing the measurements with him. Great stuff
I can tell you are a wealth of knowledge. It's evident that you care a lot to share your knowledge and for that I salute you. Tradesmen like yourself, craftsmen if I may call you that, as I hold that term dearly... are few and far between. Please keep up the good work and trust that if even 10% of what you share for us young bucks falls upon useful ears.... you will have succeeded in your endeavor. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for taking the time and caring enough to share your hard earned wisdom. Subscribed for certain.
Nice job. The biggest thing for me is being ‘self taught’ mostly because any possible instruction in my past has been trial-and-error mechanics that act like it’s a secret black art because they can’t explain what they are doing or measure it. I’ve done a few diffs but knew just enough to get it right and understand why. But great video that affirms my knowledge and taught me a coupla things. Between this and metalshaper’s vids I feel like the next one I do (Dana 30 of my own) I will know exactly what I’m doing and why, and you just saved me $800 :) I actually found this video because I realized it’s just numbers and I thought it likely there was something like this method which would work. So you saved me a bunch of money AND saved me from reinventing the wheel.
Glad you enjoyed the video and it helped you. The math is simple, just a lot of it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you will subscribe and enjoy my other videos.
Good video! I read a trick in a Volvo manual 40 years ago. If you think the pre-load/lash is correct, get 10 feet of string and a fiahing/kitchen scale. Wrap the string around the appropriate shaft. The Volvo manual said something like "pull 10 lbs of pressure and you should get x inches of string in y seconds...". They did this so that you would not need a rotary torque wrench. This method is accurate, cheap, fast, and repeatable. You do it when everything is assembled and lubed, so you know that it represents the load the gears will initially experience on the road. Yes, you still have to know how to measure and set things up. Yes you could put the string and scale on a known good rear end and pull. Hope this helps someone out there.
Hey you do what works. 40 years ago they didn't have all the tools we have today. I still use old deflecting bar torque wrench for testing in/lb preload. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you Subscribed.
Nice video. Easy way to get the carrier out is to put a box end wrench on a ring gear bolt head. Turn the pinion and when the wrench touches the housing the carrier will start raising up.
Great video. Simple in lay man terms. I am about to attempt my first differential rebuild. Need to get a straight edge and build cradle to hold the entire axle housing. Doing my homework in the mean time with videos like this. Thank you sir.
Great video with in-depth explanation, thank you sir for sharing your knowledge and wisdom. I don't know if you know about the differentials in Australian built Holden m78 irs lsd's. I think they are a Borge Warner design or maybe Dana but they are also used in Ford and Skyline r31 platforms. I want to do a rebuild on my m78 and want to gain some knowledge on how to go about it. Keep the videos coming mate and hello from Australia.
They are know as a 9bolt GM Borg Warner diff in the US, they have the same 0575 and 0578 ring gear prefixes to denote the different models between M75 and M78
Excellent Video. I have not had the chance to do this job yet and am doing it for the first time sometimes this week. I've watched plenty of how to videos on how to do these measurements to get everything set just right. and I have to say. This video so far has helped me a lot more than most. All the same measure points but I guess it just finally clicked with your video. Much appreciated. I have seen there are Measurement checks once everything's in, for back lash in the ring gear that has a tol of like 10 thou but i believe that's different for each model to check the how center it is on the teeth with the yellow marker.
Glad you enjoyed it and got some important information from it. Good luck with your project. Take your time and you will do fine. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
@ Building a shop is a major undertaking. Good luck with that endeavour. Pertaining to the video: Having the skill to seamlessly execute a task is a skill. Being able to clearly and elegantly explain the process is on another level. Keep on posting please. Your method of explanation is brilliant.
Well done. You can also take a small cylinder hone and work the inside of the old bearing until it slides on. I've done a few Ford 8.8s and it's a time (and crush sleeve) saver.
Thank You for making this video. I'm a machinist too so this way is way easier than making my own centering jig. However, I just bought a set of yukon gears, and USA Standard gears, and they both do not come with pinion depth markings. They strongly recommend using the existing pinion shim and starting from there. Shoot, that's what I would've done anyway before buying Chinese depth mics and $20 highspeed tool bits as my straight edge lol.
Hopefully that worked out for you when you checked your gear pattern. I hate when they don't give you pinion depth measurement or depth marking. Usually they are at zero if they don't have any markings, but you don't know until you read your gear pattern. Thanks for watching and commenting, hope you subscribed.
Finally a video that makes sense to me about a differential set up! Thank you for sharing this information! I’m going to watch your other ones as well.
Very very good video, thanks for posting it. My only question is, does this procedure assume that your pinion depth is set correctly to begin with? Thanks very much again for this video.
Great question. We have to assume a lot of the time. Checking the gear pattern will tell if it was set correctly before disassembly. Depending if bearings and or gear are worn. These reading are recommended for setting new bearings and or gears as per manufacture specs. They want you to use very expensive tools. This procedure will save you money but take a little more time. Thanks for watching and commenting. I hope you subscribed.
Chevy 10 Bolt. Pinion shaft in the freezer bearing in the Oven 350 degrees. Added my shims when the pinion shaft came out of the freezer and dropped my bearing slam dunk right down on the shaft ! No press needed!
That works great. Hot oil works better than just in the oven. I use cooking oil in my wife's oven. I am sure she does want to smell Hypioid next time see uses the oven. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
The shim usually goes on the pinion shaft before pressing on the bearing - very rarely a shim may be between housing and bearing cup. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Great vid. Thank you. If you are only doing bearings and not messing with carrier internals, can you reuse your crush sleeve? I get mixed responses to that question. I will be doing this on jack stands in the garage, so trying to minimize this. I have this exact rear end in the video. Thanks
Is there a way I can do something similar but starting without a pinon. I just have an empty diff housing that I’m putting a spool in. So new everything and I don’t have any previous measurements to go off.
Start with recommended shim from Ring & Pinion manufacturer. That should get you close enough to check gear pattern and adjust from there. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you'll subscribe.
Great video I'm about to dive into this for the first time on a gm 12 bolt posi thats still mounted in the car, not looking foward to popping the carrier in an out 20 times, sucks this pinion didn't have a # on the face or any other markings cause I would have liked to see how that matched up or how you did the math using a calibration tool. My thought is just to mount a square plate where the carrier bolts up then just measure to the face of the pinion, seems it takes a bunch of math an room for error right off the table. Is the # on the face of the pinion the depth from the face of the pinion to the center of the carrier itnis from the back of the spacer behind the pinion to the center of the carrier?
Also what unit of measurements are on the face of the pinion gear? 10 thousands. Cause my kobalt calibration tool measures in MM an CM only and I didn't see you do any conversions
The marked numbers (you found 2) are gear set matching number to keep ring and pinion in a set during manufacturing / packaging, the other is pinion depth usually within the range of +4 to -4 in thousands of an inch
If you are taking apart a good work diff, and just changing to different gear ratio. You can use any repeatable refence surface. The important part is getting the calculated measurement of the bottom of the pinion where the bearing or shim sets against. Number on the pinion is usually stamped or scribed on the top of the pinion gear or on the shaft below the large bearing. My reference of top or bottom is if you are looking down into the diff like I had it is sitting in video. I don't like saying front or rear because that depends on where you are standing or possibly 4 wheel drive diff. The marked numbers (you found 2) are gear set matching number to keep ring and pinion in a set during manufacturing / packaging, the other is pinion depth usually within the range of +4 to -4 in thousands of an inch. A plus number needs to sit deeper in the diff, so a thinner shim. Hope this helps. Remember the final check is always looking at gear pattern in marking paint.
Great video Tod! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us less learned in the ways of setting gears. This is exactly what I've been looking for as I will be attempting a regearing of a Dana 44 for my son's Cherokee in the coming months. AND, it is not too much math! Actually, right in my wheelhouse. I had a spreadsheet put together before the video ended. Now all that I have to do is "plug and chug" the numbers. I do not have the new ring and pinion set yet which leaves me with a question for you. What is the significance of the plus or minus number that is on the face of the replacement pinion gear? For example, if it marked with a +2, I assume that represents .002 of a difference from the factory original, but how is that applied to the Mounting Distance? Or is it applied to the Checking Distance? Thanks!
Thank you for the video. Question- you have nominal (3.125) listed on the diagram at the beginning. However your measurement Is less. So is mine. Where did you get that nominal measurement?
That diagram was not for this differential, it just shows the measurement and where they are being taken. Looking at that diagram with a mounting distance of 5.? inches that differential would be almost a 10" ring gear and most of todays diffs are about 8.25" unless 3/4 ton truck or larger. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Great video , do you mind if I share it with U.K. Land-rover forum as the GKN Salisbury diffs in the more heavy duty built ones are similar to this , & can be one pig to get right ? Thanks for your help from central england . A well intended warning for anybody working on a diff or gearbox , watch your fingers & hands , everything in there is damn sharp ! & gearboxes will keep all wound - in preload until you let it out , this can be with an unpleasant shock as it takes your finger - ends off so think ahead .
I have an 04 dodge ram 1500 the rear differential blended up and it’s just bad you are going to help me re build it thank you for your help now I don’t need to buy fancy tools
Hi Tod, Nice overview. I use similar methods, with one change- curious about your thoughts. I have always used the side bearing cap mating surface as an axle centerline reference. One reason being, the bearing race could shift slightly with the cap removed and give a false reading. Another, its simpler. The in the shown description also- while explaining a method for bearing replacement, over looks some aspects if replacing gears. I have found that even with some well-known brand name gears, the pinion nose isn't very flat or lacks a machined spot to reference for setting depth to the gear manufacturers specification. This leads to a lot of variation, depending on the spot used for measuring. So I have sometimes found the gear pattern to be a less than desirable result and/or mildly noisy setups. Another thing I have found, again- even with well-known brands, backlash can vary excessively in different checking locations. Runout on the carrier is acceptable, and relocating the ring gear to different positions doesn't fix it. I have usually tried to find a reasonable compromise, where the lash is slightly tight in the tightest spot, and slightly loose in the loosest spot. "as good as its gonna get"
I have found the parting line to be off on some diff cases. So I will check for bearing centering to be sure. Usually when I remove bearing caps preload holds diff in place so it is easy to measure. You can check bearing parting line and measure to check if centered, but that will require proper round tip on depth mic. I use a magnetic ball bearing in the drill pilot hole of the pinion to take my measurements if it doesn't have another good reference surface to measure from. As for back lash tight in some spots and loose in other, you have to check for bent carrier or poor quality gear set. I don't like more than 0.001" varience. It might work on the street but fail under heavier loads. Thanks for watching & commenting, hope you subscribed.
Oh my god. Think about the old Egypts. If they work as you work. Guy take a tope fix the diff. and let the housing down. Ang how you use the caliper. Visit your doc because you are handicapped. Sorry but Go Rentiers and let it be. Repair the Kirchen machine of your wife.
Good video, thanks for sharing. I make test bearings, I use the honing machine. In my case I have an LBB1699 Sunnen. You can save the bearing for the next time. This is an absolute must on Dana's. Good idea for someone that does not have a pinion depth setting fixture. Thanks for sharing. Just subscribed. Take care, Ed.
I did the same. Bought 2 sets of bearing. Used a flap wheel. Kept checking them on the differential till it was just snug. The same for the pinion. Then I used the old pinion shim as a starting point. Looked at my pattern. I adjusted the shim until my pattern came around. Tightened everything to specs. Took the final pattern. I was satisfied. Took it all apart and put on the new bearings by heating them in hot gear oil. Each one popped on. I took the housing to the local car wash. Got a bottle of dawn and away I went. Housing dried off and cleaned. Then the final assembly. I spent 4 days. A local shop up the road messed up the differential before I got it. My brother in law was very mad. So he ordered new gears and bearings. Seals and oil. It's was out of a 3/4 ton Ford van. I was very happy on the final results.
You can use either end of a caliper to measure depth, the thin probe on the skinny end, or between the end surfaces of to jaw head. Take a look the the big end and you will notice both jaws are flush at zero and can be used to measure depth. This end give you and more square surface to get accurite readings. If that end is too large to fit, turn it around and use the skinny end. Took years before I seen them used this way, and it is some much easier if you have the room. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
If you test mount the pinion using the old bearing that you’ve sanded or ground down to measure pinion depth do you NOT use the crush washer for the test install? Also would you still torque it to spec? I am assuming you would have to. Thanks
Correct - I do not use crush spacer when doing test fits, and I always torque pinion bearings to rotating preload spec. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
On many GM rears, especially 12 bolts and possibly other makes of rears, you can often using a Dana type shim under the bearing cup in the housing, rather than pulling the pinion bearing. On a 12 bolt Chevy, usually more gear requires a thicker pinion gear shim. If you start with the original thickness and end up needing more shim, you can knock loose the bearing cup from the housing and add a Dana style shin and avoid pulling the pinion gear bearing.
Yes you can if it is available. But remember if the next guy doesn't understand why you did it he will likely say it was done wrong, as per service manual.
@@acmemachining The Dana 60 shim will fit the 12 bolt Chevy and others. Hopefully the next guy changes bearings when he changes gears, so he should run into the shim behind the bearing cup. :)
Great Video For Me! I can set-up my GM10 rear end, and combine with the listed guide on Google, I can precisely figure the measurements. Thanks a bunch!
I use a CYLINDER HONE to hone it but only take 1000 th out its about a 2000th press fit! But it is important to the shim side a hair more just so it drops on the shaft a little this will SQUARE up the bearing to the shaft and allow you to pop it on and off easier!
The technique and information is there however the videography could have been better and some dead time could have been edited out. You explained why you used the digital caliper however it should be noted that for depth measurements with a caliper it is extremely difficult to be really accurate and it only takes a few thousandth of an inch to throw the pinion depth out of wack. Additionally I would not recommend prying up on a gear tooth unless your planing on replacing the ring gear.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I tried to use simple tools that people might have without speading thousands on tools to do a $600 job. I do agree with your comments.
Got it. Would have helped to have shown the figures and the math. Great setup for spreadsheet. Just watched another video that used a $500 tool. I like your better.
Good question. The older ford differentials come out the front and don't have a rear cover. So you have to make/ buy an axle bar that fits in the side bearing holders to measure the pinion depth. Same princible but that axle bar would be a spacific tool. Must of these older diffs you would have multible front carriers with different gear ratios and just change complete front carrier. You could have one for highway driving and one for race weekend. Thanks for watching and commenting and subcribing.
Many pinions are not machined on the face you were referencing so it is dangerous to measure from there. If you are putting back the same parts no gears no problem but if there is a change you could wind up with it incorrect.
There is always something to screw up a good plan. I have used ball bearing in center pilot if available to still get mounting distance, but sometimes you do get ones you can't measure. Thanks for watching and commenting.
When I use this information to try to gauge my pinion depth, I'm getting some strange numbers. Based on what I've measured and calculated, I should be using 0.158 of shims. Does that seem unusual? That's the factory shim, plus nearly every shim that came in the kit I got. If I install that many shims, I can't get any backlash at all. So obviously I'm doing something wrong. I just don't know what. My pinion has the number 092 written on it. The ring has a D22092 on it. I'm assuming my mounting depth then is 5.092? The pinion is 1.99 without a shim, the center of my axle is 2.44 from the surface of my diff housing. Thanks
What was the original measurement of pinion before removing and do you have the right spec for pinion depth? Most pinion shims are under 0.035". If you can't get spec for your diff's pinion start with factor shim and check contact pattern with marking paint. If you have measurement from original pinion you can select shim through calculating difference. Some manufactures done give pinion depth spec, they just give what you should be measure with their special tools. I hope this helps. Do force anything and repeat until contact pattern is correct.
@@acmemachiningthanks for replying. I'm not sure on the depth of the original pinion , but I got the bearing off in one piece and honed it out until it slip fits. Should the check distance of the old pinion be the same as the new? That would simplify the problem.
I hope it works out for you. The best things about challenges is you make you so much better for working through them. Hope you subscribed. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Exactly. Measure before you remove, than check again after bearing or gear replacement, and pinion is set. Gear pattern checking may show slight adjustment required but usually your right on with pinion depth. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you Subscribed.
This is great information but I had trouble following you. Nobody else has shared this particular information out of all videos I’ve seen. You need to have someone there that you’re teaching and another guy filming because your information is absolutely fantastic.. because I have to set my pinion gear right now and I don’t have any numbers to go on. So I’m guessing and I don’t like guessing. It would be awesome if you could re-shoot this video because it’s great information.
I wish I could have someone running the camera while I work. Being self employed, I am always too busy to film or nothing to film. I have to get the paying jobs out first, but then I regret not shooting a video. Make sure you check your gear pattern with paint. That will tell you if you guessed right. I get a lot of jobs that others have got wrong, so I have to do it with these base measurements. It gets me very close, if not spot on. Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your project. Hope you subscribed.
Lots of videos available on gear patterns. Unfortunately I do have a video or a diff to make a video at this time. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you check out my other videos & subscribe.
LOL I was talking about 8" Mitutoyo Vernier Caliper. Maybe next video I will have to get out the 12" Starrett, or would that be "Stare At It " You made me laugh. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Instead of using the cover face, which isn't machined with the same tool, i use the bearing cap surfaces, which are the actual center of axle rotation.
The bearings cap surfaces are not always centerline. They are align bored just like engine main bearings. Most are perfect but some are off and that would ruin the job. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Just remember this will only work if you are replacing that ring and pinion with the exact same gear ratio ring and pinion. If you're changing to like a 456 gear you need to know pinion depth from the gear manufacturer
Gear manufacture usually will give you pinion depth for their gear set. Then you can calculate required shim with these measurements. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
You always have to check/ set backlash and check pattern. These mearsurements are so you done have to pull pinion back out (most of the times). Thanks for watching and commenting, hope you subcribed.
Wrong, Pinion depth is calculated from the ring gear diameter not from the gear ratio. You do not change your depth by gear ratio. Beside what is scribed on the back of the pinion is to give you an idea of what size of shims to start out with. Diff cases are not all machined exactly the same.
That's all fine and dandy how your doing that but the pinion depth is pretty critical and all those measurements your taking off of different surface's your liable to be off a few thousands. Also if the rear-end has been worked on before who knows if it was set up right to begin with. That rear-end did not come out of a ram 1500. It's a Dana 60. They never installed them on a 1/2 ton ram. 3.125 is the pinion depth on a 60. Just get the right tools for the job instead of cobbling something together. Setting up axle gears right is pretty important if you want them to last. Especially if you using it to off road or pulling.
Title of video is about using simple tools, not how to spend a thousand dollars on tools to save 5 hours labor. This diff came out of a 2012 Ram 1500 VIN 1C6RD7GT8CS118883 customer still has the truck. Diff is also too small for any severe off roading or pulling. Final check for any diff work is pattern checking, so if my method got a totally previously messed up differential to within a few thousands on the first try, to be corrected after checking pattern with gear paint, good job.
A lot of these measurments are set in manufacture, why complicate this task. the only size needed is the depth to the pinion. Why not use the vernier with the depth guage, instead of the jaws?
Thanks for watching and commenting. You can use either end of your vernier. I have had customers bring ring and pinion issues for repair after someone got it wrong. This is how I get back on the right track without removing pinion many times. Manufactures have specs & procedures that require thousand of dollar worth of special tools that may only work on one make and model. I shared this just to show that you can do it with a good pair of vernier calipers. Thanks again, I hope you will subscribe.
I feel like your Making a little extra work for yourself in calculations. Lay bar across, measure down to bearing cap mounting surface. Zero your caliper and directly measure pinion depth. I've had great success doing it this way for years.
You are assuming bearing cap mounting surface is centerline of bearing. That may not be correct and that assumption can be costly. I perfer a little extra work rather than a redo. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Borrow or rent a pinion depth gauge setup, you you will get a first time proper measurement. Use this method if you can send yourself back in time with a time machine ( preferably model- T auto years ).
Why don't you just pay somebody to do it for you. But that not the subject of this video is it? Don't disrespect the model T's some of them are still on the road, and people who learn how to use simple tools can still work on them. Maybe you could do a video on how to rent and borrow things.
Never ASSUME. That will bite you when you least except it. If they are exactly the same, we would just remove and replace with out any measurements or concerns. Parts are never exactly the same especially gears and bearing. That's why they have shims and set-up procedures.
Shims can be re-used. Most times you have to stack shims to get the right height you need. Rarely do you have one of each size, but combinations will add up correctly. Always save your old shims for next time. A lot of shops trade off shims to get what they need.
Thanks for watching and commenting. 90% of the time you can just change parts and get away with nothing more, but when it does not work that way you better know the math or have really deep pockets. Diff parts are not cheap so I always take the time to measure. That way it is done right the first time.
HOW DO YOU GET THE RIGHT TOOTH PATTERN BY KNOWING THE PINION DEPTH AND WHAT SIZE SHIM TO ADD OR SUBTRACT NEED TO MEASURE AND DO THE MATH IF NOT REAREND WILL MAKE NOISE OR EVEN WEAROUT BADLY AND BREAK AND CORRECT PINION BEARING PRELOAD CARRIERBEARING PRELOAD ALL IMPORTANT IF TO TIGHT BURNBEARING TO LOOSE WEAR OUT NOISEY AND DAMAGE. ITS NOT FOR EVERY ONE AND ITS NOT EASY YOU HAVE TO UNDERSTAND WHY AND HOW HOPE THAT HELPS TAKECARE
Rear diffs can be fun if you keep track of what you are doing. The fun goes away when you check you pattern with gear paint and find out you need to take the pinion back out, which can cost you for new bearing, crush spacer and possible nut. That why I like to measure them as they come apart. Sometimes a customer will show up with rear diff in a basket (aka Basket case) and ask "can you fix it?" Then you need to start with some base line numbers and measurements to do it right. Not all jobs are easy. Thanks for commenting and watching. There are many pinion shim charts on google that help you understand pinion markings. I always torque for rotating preload inch-lbs and not the ft-lbs spec listed in manual. Hope this helps - goodluck with your projects.
Way too much math.measure from bearing centerline to face of pinion gear, that's the pinion depth. Bearing centerline is the flat surface where the bearing cap mounts.
Not all bearing caps are at bearing centerline, caps are torqued in place before line boring for side bearing cups. Measurement have to be made while pinion bearings are torqued to specified preload. Usually pinion nut has over 200lb-ft of torque before turning resistance is 20 - 30 lb-in, so you can't just measure to the bearing surface. That would be too easy. Thanks for watching and your comment, they help people understand why. Also some replacement gear sets will have checking distance etched on the end of the pinion and this is why we need to know this measurement. Thanks again!
@@acmemachining so you now I'm a 62 yrs old fossil. Been setting tears up for awhile now. The actual tool for doing this measurement has half moon adapter's that seat in rear housing where side bearing seat. Never have seen axle center line not be same as center line of side bearing cap split. Would have see that. Maybe show in future vidios. Thank you , Scotty S&EAuto
You are using the correct tool and finding centerline to be same as most bearing cap split. That is good to know. I hate to assume that all will be always the same. I respect your experience and your comments. You know the importance of having these measurements. I just wanted to show how to get them without special measuring set-ups. Thanks
Awesome video 🤩 i heard of people shining the raice and was curious if that was a can do or dont do kinda thing. I see the whole tube you as a glass filled halfway , drink it and get more or add more dink it and get more 😂😂😂🫣weather learning helps individuals learn for themselves to save $$$ and the feel of accomplishing a project themselves , it also helps the mechanics with time since theres usually a good wait to get your vehicle in and diagnostics if you still pay someone . Also its knowledge for if you pay a shop then you’ll have the knowledge to tell if you’re getting robbed 🤷🏽😂
Bearing need press fit to work properly. You can hone out the old bearing to test fit. but that can be lots of work. Easier to calculate required shim and do install once. Always check gear pattern with gear paint before you say your finished. Make adjustments if required. Enjoy your project. thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
This was a great video. At work, I don’t really go this in depth into a differential. This made me feel like I was doing the measurements with him. Great stuff
Glad it was helpful!
I can tell you are a wealth of knowledge. It's evident that you care a lot to share your knowledge and for that I salute you. Tradesmen like yourself, craftsmen if I may call you that, as I hold that term dearly... are few and far between. Please keep up the good work and trust that if even 10% of what you share for us young bucks falls upon useful ears.... you will have succeeded in your endeavor. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for taking the time and caring enough to share your hard earned wisdom. Subscribed for certain.
Good to hear and Thank You.
Great comment and good to see. We should thank our good elders they only did what was asked and succeeded at it !!!
Proud to have served my apprenticeship under old-school journeyman machinist like this man.
Thank for watching and commenting. I am still learning also, something new every day. Hope you subscribed.
I wanted to thank you for your video. I is my first time doing a rear end rebuild and you made it almost easy! Lol.
Thank you for what you do!
So Glad it helped. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Nice job.
The biggest thing for me is being ‘self taught’ mostly because any possible instruction in my past has been trial-and-error mechanics that act like it’s a secret black art because they can’t explain what they are doing or measure it.
I’ve done a few diffs but knew just enough to get it right and understand why.
But great video that affirms my knowledge and taught me a coupla things. Between this and metalshaper’s vids I feel like the next one I do (Dana 30 of my own) I will know exactly what I’m doing and why, and you just saved me $800 :)
I actually found this video because I realized it’s just numbers and I thought it likely there was something like this method which would work. So you saved me a bunch of money AND saved me from reinventing the wheel.
Glad you enjoyed the video and it helped you. The math is simple, just a lot of it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you will subscribe and enjoy my other videos.
I made a tool for installing my cam bearings in my 318 mopar..using an expandable freeze plug. Works great 😊
Good video! I read a trick in a Volvo manual 40 years ago. If you think the pre-load/lash is correct, get 10 feet of string and a fiahing/kitchen scale. Wrap the string around the appropriate shaft. The Volvo manual said something like "pull 10 lbs of pressure and you should get x inches of string in y seconds...". They did this so that you would not need a rotary torque wrench. This method is accurate, cheap, fast, and repeatable. You do it when everything is assembled and lubed, so you know that it represents the load the gears will initially experience on the road. Yes, you still have to know how to measure and set things up. Yes you could put the string and scale on a known good rear end and pull. Hope this helps someone out there.
Hey you do what works. 40 years ago they didn't have all the tools we have today. I still use old deflecting bar torque wrench for testing in/lb preload. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you Subscribed.
Nice video. Easy way to get the carrier out is to put a box end wrench on a ring gear bolt head. Turn the pinion and when the wrench touches the housing the carrier will start raising up.
Great tip! I like that, will try it next time. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Great video. Simple in lay man terms. I am about to attempt my first differential rebuild. Need to get a straight edge and build cradle to hold the entire axle housing. Doing my homework in the mean time with videos like this. Thank you sir.
Thanks for watching & commenting. Couple of good jack stands work fine for hold axle, and they have more than one use. Hope you subscribed.
Yes I probably will just use stands.
Thanks for taking the time to make this great video and explanation. Helped me confirm that I understand setup.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Glad it helps you. How you subscribe and check out my other videos.
Great video with in-depth explanation, thank you sir for sharing your knowledge and wisdom.
I don't know if you know about the differentials in Australian built Holden m78 irs lsd's. I think they are a Borge Warner design or maybe Dana but they are also used in Ford and Skyline r31 platforms. I want to do a rebuild on my m78 and want to gain some knowledge on how to go about it. Keep the videos coming mate and hello from Australia.
Thanks for watching & commenting. Glad you enjoyed it and it helps you. Hope you subscribed.
They are know as a 9bolt GM Borg Warner diff in the US, they have the same 0575 and 0578 ring gear prefixes to denote the different models between M75 and M78
@@tonyreeves7210 Thanks for sharing. Your comments are helpful.
Excellent Video. I have not had the chance to do this job yet and am doing it for the first time sometimes this week. I've watched plenty of how to videos on how to do these measurements to get everything set just right. and I have to say. This video so far has helped me a lot more than most. All the same measure points but I guess it just finally clicked with your video. Much appreciated. I have seen there are Measurement checks once everything's in, for back lash in the ring gear that has a tol of like 10 thou but i believe that's different for each model to check the how center it is on the teeth with the yellow marker.
Glad you enjoyed it and got some important information from it. Good luck with your project. Take your time and you will do fine. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
This is not a good video. It’s an absolutely brilliant video!
Thanks a stack for posting it!
Glad you liked it. Please subscribe. Comments like this makes me want to do more videos. Just have to get shop built first.
@ Building a shop is a major undertaking. Good luck with that endeavour.
Pertaining to the video: Having the skill to seamlessly execute a task is a skill. Being able to clearly and elegantly explain the process is on another level. Keep on posting please. Your method of explanation is brilliant.
Well done. You can also take a small cylinder hone and work the inside of the old bearing until it slides on. I've done a few Ford 8.8s and it's a time (and crush sleeve) saver.
Thank you. Honing the old bearing works. I usually order spare crush sleeves. thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Thanks for the time/money saving tips. Very easy to understand!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed>
Thank You for making this video. I'm a machinist too so this way is way easier than making my own centering jig. However, I just bought a set of yukon gears, and USA Standard gears, and they both do not come with pinion depth markings. They strongly recommend using the existing pinion shim and starting from there. Shoot, that's what I would've done anyway before buying Chinese depth mics and $20 highspeed tool bits as my straight edge lol.
Hopefully that worked out for you when you checked your gear pattern. I hate when they don't give you pinion depth measurement or depth marking. Usually they are at zero if they don't have any markings, but you don't know until you read your gear pattern. Thanks for watching and commenting, hope you subscribed.
@@acmemachining definitely subscribed! We'll see how it goes, video coming soon and I'll be shouting you out 👍
Hopefully I send some views your way! th-cam.com/video/vDpZmVTmvlo/w-d-xo.html
Finally a video that makes sense to me about a differential set up! Thank you for sharing this information! I’m going to watch your other ones as well.
Glad it was helpful! Hope you get some enjoyment out of my other videos and please subscribe.
Very very good video, thanks for posting it. My only question is, does this procedure assume that your pinion depth is set correctly to begin with? Thanks very much again for this video.
Great question. We have to assume a lot of the time. Checking the gear pattern will tell if it was set correctly before disassembly. Depending if bearings and or gear are worn. These reading are recommended for setting new bearings and or gears as per manufacture specs. They want you to use very expensive tools. This procedure will save you money but take a little more time. Thanks for watching and commenting. I hope you subscribed.
great video thats the way i was taught in 1978, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Chevy 10 Bolt. Pinion shaft in the freezer bearing in the Oven 350 degrees. Added my shims when the pinion shaft came out of the freezer and dropped my bearing slam dunk right down on the shaft ! No press needed!
That works great. Hot oil works better than just in the oven. I use cooking oil in my wife's oven. I am sure she does want to smell Hypioid next time see uses the oven. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Strong move .. 😁😆😅🤣🤗@@acmemachining
Great video, old school method , thanks .
Thanks for watching and Commenting. Glad you enjoyed it.
Highly informative, spot on!
Thank You, Glad You Enjoyed It.
So in the end is the shim placed above io below the pressed on bearing? Need clarification. Thanks 😁👍
The shim usually goes on the pinion shaft before pressing on the bearing - very rarely a shim may be between housing and bearing cup. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Thanks for your video it helps us that need to know important details installing components
You are welcome. Hope you subscribe.
Great vid. Thank you. If you are only doing bearings and not messing with carrier internals, can you reuse your crush sleeve? I get mixed responses to that question. I will be doing this on jack stands in the garage, so trying to minimize this. I have this exact rear end in the video. Thanks
Always use new crush sleeve when ever removed or over-tightened. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
@@acmemachining "Always use new crush sleeve when ever removed or over-tightened." So true.
Is there a way I can do something similar but starting without a pinon. I just have an empty diff housing that I’m putting a spool in. So new everything and I don’t have any previous measurements to go off.
Start with recommended shim from Ring & Pinion manufacturer. That should get you close enough to check gear pattern and adjust from there. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you'll subscribe.
Great video I'm about to dive into this for the first time on a gm 12 bolt posi thats still mounted in the car, not looking foward to popping the carrier in an out 20 times, sucks this pinion didn't have a # on the face or any other markings cause I would have liked to see how that matched up or how you did the math using a calibration tool.
My thought is just to mount a square plate where the carrier bolts up then just measure to the face of the pinion, seems it takes a bunch of math an room for error right off the table.
Is the # on the face of the pinion the depth from the face of the pinion to the center of the carrier itnis from the back of the spacer behind the pinion to the center of the carrier?
Also the face of my pinion gear has 2 separate #'s
Also what unit of measurements are on the face of the pinion gear? 10 thousands. Cause my kobalt calibration tool measures in MM an CM only and I didn't see you do any conversions
The marked numbers (you found 2) are gear set matching number to keep ring and pinion in a set during manufacturing / packaging, the other is pinion depth usually within the range of +4 to -4 in thousands of an inch
If you are taking apart a good work diff, and just changing to different gear ratio. You can use any repeatable refence surface. The important part is getting the calculated measurement of the bottom of the pinion where the bearing or shim sets against. Number on the pinion is usually stamped or scribed on the top of the pinion gear or on the shaft below the large bearing. My reference of top or bottom is if you are looking down into the diff like I had it is sitting in video. I don't like saying front or rear because that depends on where you are standing or possibly 4 wheel drive diff. The marked numbers (you found 2) are gear set matching number to keep ring and pinion in a set during manufacturing / packaging, the other is pinion depth usually within the range of +4 to -4 in thousands of an inch. A plus number needs to sit deeper in the diff, so a thinner shim. Hope this helps. Remember the final check is always looking at gear pattern in marking paint.
25.4mm equals 1 inch. Pinions markers on older North American vehicle are in thousands. Always check for spec in a good service manual.
Great video Tod! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us less learned in the ways of setting gears. This is exactly what I've been looking for as I will be attempting a regearing of a Dana 44 for my son's Cherokee in the coming months. AND, it is not too much math! Actually, right in my wheelhouse. I had a spreadsheet put together before the video ended. Now all that I have to do is "plug and chug" the numbers. I do not have the new ring and pinion set yet which leaves me with a question for you. What is the significance of the plus or minus number that is on the face of the replacement pinion gear? For example, if it marked with a +2, I assume that represents .002 of a difference from the factory original, but how is that applied to the Mounting Distance? Or is it applied to the Checking Distance? Thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting. Glad you enjoyed it. Hoped you subscribed.
Great video! Very easy to understand.
Thanks for watching & commenting. Glad you enjoyed. Hope you subscribe & enjoy other videos.
Thanks for such an interesting video i want to learn how to fix ring n pinion when differential goes bad👍
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Thank you for the video.
Question- you have nominal (3.125) listed on the diagram at the beginning. However your measurement
Is less. So is mine.
Where did you get that nominal measurement?
That diagram was not for this differential, it just shows the measurement and where they are being taken. Looking at that diagram with a mounting distance of 5.? inches that differential would be almost a 10" ring gear and most of todays diffs are about 8.25" unless 3/4 ton truck or larger. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Great video , do you mind if I share it with U.K. Land-rover forum as the GKN Salisbury diffs in the more heavy duty built ones are similar to this , & can be one pig to get right ? Thanks for your help from central england . A well intended warning for anybody working on a diff or gearbox , watch your fingers & hands , everything in there is damn sharp ! & gearboxes will keep all wound - in preload until you let it out , this can be with an unpleasant shock as it takes your finger - ends off so think ahead .
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I have an 04 dodge ram 1500 the rear differential blended up and it’s just bad you are going to help me re build it thank you for your help now I don’t need to buy fancy tools
Thanks glad it helps. Hope you subscribed.
Hi Tod,
Nice overview. I use similar methods, with one change- curious about your thoughts.
I have always used the side bearing cap mating surface as an axle centerline reference.
One reason being, the bearing race could shift slightly with the cap removed and give a false reading. Another, its simpler.
The in the shown description also- while explaining a method for bearing replacement, over looks some aspects if replacing gears.
I have found that even with some well-known brand name gears, the pinion nose isn't very flat or lacks a machined spot to reference for setting depth to the gear manufacturers specification. This leads to a lot of variation, depending on the spot used for measuring.
So I have sometimes found the gear pattern to be a less than desirable result and/or mildly noisy setups.
Another thing I have found, again- even with well-known brands, backlash can vary excessively in different checking locations. Runout on the carrier is acceptable, and relocating the ring gear to different positions doesn't fix it.
I have usually tried to find a reasonable compromise, where the lash is slightly tight in the tightest spot, and slightly loose in the loosest spot. "as good as its gonna get"
I have found the parting line to be off on some diff cases. So I will check for bearing centering to be sure. Usually when I remove bearing caps preload holds diff in place so it is easy to measure. You can check bearing parting line and measure to check if centered, but that will require proper round tip on depth mic.
I use a magnetic ball bearing in the drill pilot hole of the pinion to take my measurements if it doesn't have another good reference surface to measure from.
As for back lash tight in some spots and loose in other, you have to check for bent carrier or poor quality gear set. I don't like more than 0.001" varience. It might work on the street but fail under heavier loads. Thanks for watching & commenting, hope you subscribed.
Just my Pinion, but this is an awesome video. Thanks Tod😊
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video thanks for taking the time
Thanks for watching and Commenting. Hope you subscribed
Super simple,thanks so much ,takes the fear of the unknown
Thanks Michael. Glad you enjoyed the video and it was helpful. Hope you subscribed.
Oh my god. Think about the old Egypts. If they work as you work. Guy take a tope fix the diff. and let the housing down. Ang how you use the caliper. Visit your doc because you are handicapped. Sorry but Go Rentiers and let it be. Repair the Kirchen machine of your wife.
Good video, thanks for sharing.
I make test bearings, I use the honing machine.
In my case I have an LBB1699 Sunnen.
You can save the bearing for the next time.
This is an absolute must on Dana's.
Good idea for someone that does not have a pinion depth setting fixture.
Thanks for sharing.
Just subscribed.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing. I also subscribed to your channel
@@acmemachiningThank you for Subscribing.
I really appreciate you.
Take care, Ed.
I did the same. Bought 2 sets of bearing. Used a flap wheel. Kept checking them on the differential till it was just snug. The same for the pinion. Then I used the old pinion shim as a starting point. Looked at my pattern. I adjusted the shim until my pattern came around. Tightened everything to specs. Took the final pattern. I was satisfied. Took it all apart and put on the new bearings by heating them in hot gear oil. Each one popped on.
I took the housing to the local car wash. Got a bottle of dawn and away I went. Housing dried off and cleaned. Then the final assembly. I spent 4 days.
A local shop up the road messed up the differential before I got it. My brother in law was very mad. So he ordered new gears and bearings. Seals and oil.
It's was out of a 3/4 ton Ford van. I was very happy on the final results.
That stem at your left hand is the part that you use to measure that depth
You can use either end of a caliper to measure depth, the thin probe on the skinny end, or between the end surfaces of to jaw head. Take a look the the big end and you will notice both jaws are flush at zero and can be used to measure depth. This end give you and more square surface to get accurite readings. If that end is too large to fit, turn it around and use the skinny end. Took years before I seen them used this way, and it is some much easier if you have the room. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
If you test mount the pinion using the old bearing that you’ve sanded or ground down to measure pinion depth do you NOT use the crush washer for the test install? Also would you still torque it to spec? I am assuming you would have to. Thanks
Correct - I do not use crush spacer when doing test fits, and I always torque pinion bearings to rotating preload spec. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
On many GM rears, especially 12 bolts and possibly other makes of rears, you can often using a Dana type shim under the bearing cup in the housing, rather than pulling the pinion bearing. On a 12 bolt Chevy, usually more gear requires a thicker pinion gear shim. If you start with the original thickness and end up needing more shim, you can knock loose the bearing cup from the housing and add a Dana style shin and avoid pulling the pinion gear bearing.
Yes you can if it is available. But remember if the next guy doesn't understand why you did it he will likely say it was done wrong, as per service manual.
@@acmemachining The Dana 60 shim will fit the 12 bolt Chevy and others. Hopefully the next guy changes bearings when he changes gears, so he should run into the shim behind the bearing cup. :)
Thanks good information and no music
Glad you liked it
Great Video For Me! I can set-up my GM10 rear end, and combine with the listed guide on Google, I can precisely figure the measurements. Thanks a bunch!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subcribe and share with friends.
I use a CYLINDER HONE to hone it but only take 1000 th out its about a 2000th press fit! But it is important to the shim side a hair more just so it drops on the shaft a little this will SQUARE up the bearing to the shaft and allow you to pop it on and off easier!
You do what works. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Excellent. Not Rocket Science rather Disciplined Precision!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. Hope you subscribed.
About to do this on a 98 Dakota changing the 3.55s to 3.90s😊
Have fun. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope it helps you out and please subscribe.
Game changer. Thank you for posting this video.
Beats the heck out of guessing. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
The technique and information is there however the videography could have been better and some dead time could have been edited out. You explained why you used the digital caliper however it should be noted that for depth measurements with a caliper it is extremely difficult to be really accurate and it only takes a few thousandth of an inch to throw the pinion depth out of wack. Additionally I would not recommend prying up on a gear tooth unless your planing on replacing the ring gear.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I tried to use simple tools that people might have without speading thousands on tools to do a $600 job. I do agree with your comments.
Got it. Would have helped to have shown the figures and the math. Great setup for spreadsheet. Just watched another video that used a $500 tool. I like your better.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the helpful tip. I will try to use white-board for videos like this.
Does this same process work on a Ford 8 inch on 69 Mustang?
Good question. The older ford differentials come out the front and don't have a rear cover. So you have to make/ buy an axle bar that fits in the side bearing holders to measure the pinion depth. Same princible but that axle bar would be a spacific tool. Must of these older diffs you would have multible front carriers with different gear ratios and just change complete front carrier. You could have one for highway driving and one for race weekend. Thanks for watching and commenting and subcribing.
Many pinions are not machined on the face you were referencing so it is dangerous to measure from there. If you are putting back the same parts no gears no problem but if there is a change you could wind up with it incorrect.
There is always something to screw up a good plan. I have used ball bearing in center pilot if available to still get mounting distance, but sometimes you do get ones you can't measure. Thanks for watching and commenting.
😅😅😅😅😊😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😊😅😅😅😅😅😊
🤦♂️
Beast...yeah it can be difficult to comprehend...but review it a few times....great explanation
Thanks for watching and commenting. A lot of math involved in gears, can be difficult at times. Hope you will subscribe.
Great video. Thank you. Good information.
Oh yeah, I'm concerned about your shirt choice at the end... ;-)
I had to re-shoot the ending, so I had different shirt on. That shirt states the truth - doesn't it.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for sharing , going with my grandson !!!
Thanks for watching & commenting. I hope you & your grandson have a good time working on this together. Please subcribe.
When I use this information to try to gauge my pinion depth, I'm getting some strange numbers. Based on what I've measured and calculated, I should be using 0.158 of shims. Does that seem unusual? That's the factory shim, plus nearly every shim that came in the kit I got. If I install that many shims, I can't get any backlash at all. So obviously I'm doing something wrong. I just don't know what. My pinion has the number 092 written on it. The ring has a D22092 on it. I'm assuming my mounting depth then is 5.092? The pinion is 1.99 without a shim, the center of my axle is 2.44 from the surface of my diff housing. Thanks
What was the original measurement of pinion before removing and do you have the right spec for pinion depth? Most pinion shims are under 0.035". If you can't get spec for your diff's pinion start with factor shim and check contact pattern with marking paint. If you have measurement from original pinion you can select shim through calculating difference. Some manufactures done give pinion depth spec, they just give what you should be measure with their special tools. I hope this helps. Do force anything and repeat until contact pattern is correct.
@@acmemachiningthanks for replying. I'm not sure on the depth of the original pinion , but I got the bearing off in one piece and honed it out until it slip fits. Should the check distance of the old pinion be the same as the new? That would simplify the problem.
I hope it works out for you. The best things about challenges is you make you so much better for working through them. Hope you subscribed. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Thanks for the detailed video
Glad it was helpful!
The whole objective here is to set the pinion depth without having to install the carrier in and out 5 times. Am I right ?
Exactly. Measure before you remove, than check again after bearing or gear replacement, and pinion is set. Gear pattern checking may show slight adjustment required but usually your right on with pinion depth. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you Subscribed.
This is great information but I had trouble following you. Nobody else has shared this particular information out of all videos I’ve seen. You need to have someone there that you’re teaching and another guy filming because your information is absolutely fantastic.. because I have to set my pinion gear right now and I don’t have any numbers to go on. So I’m guessing and I don’t like guessing. It would be awesome if you could re-shoot this video because it’s great information.
I wish I could have someone running the camera while I work. Being self employed, I am always too busy to film or nothing to film. I have to get the paying jobs out first, but then I regret not shooting a video. Make sure you check your gear pattern with paint. That will tell you if you guessed right. I get a lot of jobs that others have got wrong, so I have to do it with these base measurements. It gets me very close, if not spot on. Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your project. Hope you subscribed.
I need some information about gear petrron
Lots of videos available on gear patterns. Unfortunately I do have a video or a diff to make a video at this time. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you check out my other videos & subscribe.
12:10 weird flex but ok, don’t have to come at me personally like that… 😂
LOL I was talking about 8" Mitutoyo Vernier Caliper. Maybe next video I will have to get out the 12" Starrett, or would that be "Stare At It " You made me laugh. Thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Instead of using the cover face, which isn't machined with the same tool, i use the bearing cap surfaces, which are the actual center of axle rotation.
The bearings cap surfaces are not always centerline. They are align bored just like engine main bearings. Most are perfect but some are off and that would ruin the job. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Just remember this will only work if you are replacing that ring and pinion with the exact same gear ratio ring and pinion. If you're changing to like a 456 gear you need to know pinion depth from the gear manufacturer
Gear manufacture usually will give you pinion depth for their gear set. Then you can calculate required shim with these measurements. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Even then, i still would still be marking gears and checking backlash rather than go of basically an arbitrary measurement.
You always have to check/ set backlash and check pattern. These mearsurements are so you done have to pull pinion back out (most of the times). Thanks for watching and commenting, hope you subcribed.
Wrong, Pinion depth is calculated from the ring gear diameter not from the gear ratio. You do not change your depth by gear ratio. Beside what is scribed on the back of the pinion is to give you an idea of what size of shims to start out with. Diff cases are not all machined exactly the same.
⭕️👍thank you for this information good sir
Thanks for watching a commenting. Glad it was he;pful. Hope you subscribed.
What happens when you have a 9 in one??
The women love you!!!
Love the shirt
Thanks for watching and subscribing. Hope you subscribed.
That's all fine and dandy how your doing that but the pinion depth is pretty critical and all those measurements your taking off of different surface's your liable to be off a few thousands. Also if the rear-end has been worked on before who knows if it was set up right to begin with. That rear-end did not come out of a ram 1500. It's a Dana 60. They never installed them on a 1/2 ton ram. 3.125 is the pinion depth on a 60. Just get the right tools for the job instead of cobbling something together. Setting up axle gears right is pretty important if you want them to last. Especially if you using it to off road or pulling.
Title of video is about using simple tools, not how to spend a thousand dollars on tools to save 5 hours labor. This diff came out of a 2012 Ram 1500 VIN 1C6RD7GT8CS118883 customer still has the truck. Diff is also too small for any severe off roading or pulling. Final check for any diff work is pattern checking, so if my method got a totally previously messed up differential to within a few thousands on the first try, to be corrected after checking pattern with gear paint, good job.
@@acmemachining Agreed!! DEF a Ram 1500 9.25 and NOT a Dana 60!!
Yes indeed babe . Life is a marathon, not a sprint . That’s old school there !
Thanks for watching and commenting. Glad you enjoyed it.
A lot of these measurments are set in manufacture, why complicate this task. the only size needed is the depth to the pinion. Why not use the vernier with the depth guage, instead of the jaws?
Thanks for watching and commenting. You can use either end of your vernier. I have had customers bring ring and pinion issues for repair after someone got it wrong. This is how I get back on the right track without removing pinion many times. Manufactures have specs & procedures that require thousand of dollar worth of special tools that may only work on one make and model. I shared this just to show that you can do it with a good pair of vernier calipers. Thanks again, I hope you will subscribe.
I feel like your Making a little extra work for yourself in calculations. Lay bar across, measure down to bearing cap mounting surface. Zero your caliper and directly measure pinion depth. I've had great success doing it this way for years.
You are assuming bearing cap mounting surface is centerline of bearing. That may not be correct and that assumption can be costly. I perfer a little extra work rather than a redo. Thanks for watching and commenting.
thx . nice explain good tip esy to doo
Glad you liked it
You don't need the tool for the dana 70 95 dodge 2500 8.0
Thanks for watching and commenting. Some diffs are easier than others and require less tools. Hope you subscribed.
My head is spinning with this math
Write it down it gets simple on paper. Thanks for watching ang commenting. Hope you subscribed.
Hello sir how are you
Good Thank You
Borrow or rent a pinion depth gauge setup, you you will get a first time proper measurement. Use this method if you can send yourself back in time with a time machine ( preferably model- T auto years ).
Why don't you just pay somebody to do it for you. But that not the subject of this video is it? Don't disrespect the model T's some of them are still on the road, and people who learn how to use simple tools can still work on them. Maybe you could do a video on how to rent and borrow things.
Correction pinion shaft in the freezer!!!
Why bother taking a measurement of the old pinion if you're installing a new pinion?
So you have a reference measurement. Once it is out you can't be sure of where it was. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Both pinion's are exactly the same?
Never ASSUME. That will bite you when you least except it. If they are exactly the same, we would just remove and replace with out any measurements or concerns. Parts are never exactly the same especially gears and bearing. That's why they have shims and set-up procedures.
@@acmemachiningright so again why are you putting in the old shims when you have to re shim them anyway with plus or minus shims?
Shims can be re-used. Most times you have to stack shims to get the right height you need. Rarely do you have one of each size, but combinations will add up correctly. Always save your old shims for next time. A lot of shops trade off shims to get what they need.
#Roger
Thanks
way too much struggle pulling the ring gear assy. all he had to do was reach around and rotate the pinion..
It alot easier when it is attached to a vehicle. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you subscribed
Way to much math and confusing. Backlash and patterning is all you need.
Thanks for watching and commenting. 90% of the time you can just change parts and get away with nothing more, but when it does not work that way you better know the math or have really deep pockets. Diff parts are not cheap so I always take the time to measure. That way it is done right the first time.
HOW DO YOU GET THE RIGHT TOOTH PATTERN BY KNOWING THE PINION DEPTH AND WHAT SIZE SHIM TO ADD OR SUBTRACT NEED TO MEASURE AND DO THE MATH IF NOT REAREND WILL MAKE NOISE OR EVEN WEAROUT BADLY AND BREAK AND CORRECT PINION BEARING PRELOAD CARRIERBEARING PRELOAD ALL IMPORTANT IF TO TIGHT BURNBEARING TO LOOSE WEAR OUT NOISEY AND DAMAGE. ITS NOT FOR EVERY ONE AND ITS NOT EASY YOU HAVE TO UNDERSTAND WHY AND HOW HOPE THAT HELPS TAKECARE
Rear diffs can be fun if you keep track of what you are doing. The fun goes away when you check you pattern with gear paint and find out you need to take the pinion back out, which can cost you for new bearing, crush spacer and possible nut. That why I like to measure them as they come apart. Sometimes a customer will show up with rear diff in a basket (aka Basket case) and ask "can you fix it?" Then you need to start with some base line numbers and measurements to do it right. Not all jobs are easy. Thanks for commenting and watching. There are many pinion shim charts on google that help you understand pinion markings. I always torque for rotating preload inch-lbs and not the ft-lbs spec listed in manual. Hope this helps - goodluck with your projects.
Way too much math.measure from bearing centerline to face of pinion gear, that's the pinion depth. Bearing centerline is the flat surface where the bearing cap mounts.
Not all bearing caps are at bearing centerline, caps are torqued in place before line boring for side bearing cups. Measurement have to be made while pinion bearings are torqued to specified preload. Usually pinion nut has over 200lb-ft of torque before turning resistance is 20 - 30 lb-in, so you can't just measure to the bearing surface. That would be too easy. Thanks for watching and your comment, they help people understand why. Also some replacement gear sets will have checking distance etched on the end of the pinion and this is why we need to know this measurement. Thanks again!
@@acmemachining so you now I'm a 62 yrs old fossil. Been setting tears up for awhile now. The actual tool for doing this measurement has half moon adapter's that seat in rear housing where side bearing seat. Never have seen axle center line not be same as center line of side bearing cap split. Would have see that. Maybe show in future vidios. Thank you , Scotty S&EAuto
You are using the correct tool and finding centerline to be same as most bearing cap split. That is good to know. I hate to assume that all will be always the same. I respect your experience and your comments. You know the importance of having these measurements. I just wanted to show how to get them without special measuring set-ups. Thanks
@@acmemachining Thanks for video. Always more than one way to skin a cat. Have a good day and thanks for feedback.
Awesome video 🤩 i heard of people shining the raice and was curious if that was a can do or dont do kinda thing.
I see the whole tube you as a glass filled halfway , drink it and get more or add more dink it and get more 😂😂😂🫣weather learning helps individuals learn for themselves to save $$$ and the feel of accomplishing a project themselves , it also helps the mechanics with time since theres usually a good wait to get your vehicle in and diagnostics if you still pay someone . Also its knowledge for if you pay a shop then you’ll have the knowledge to tell if you’re getting robbed 🤷🏽😂
Bearing need press fit to work properly. You can hone out the old bearing to test fit. but that can be lots of work. Easier to calculate required shim and do install once. Always check gear pattern with gear paint before you say your finished. Make adjustments if required. Enjoy your project. thanks for watching & commenting. Hope you subscribed.