Nice job man. I had to tear off the entire front end of my passat after the accessory belts shredded and threw off the timing belt by a few notches. But now that it's apart, I see that big silly air pump just easily accessible to remove. Now after this vid I know how to plug it up properly!
I think the passat engine bays are packaged a bit tighter than the polo but it is possible witout taking the front off depending on engine fitted to the vehicle
Hey i know I'm a few years late but what would happen if i just put something in the way so the exhaust fumes cant come out? would it basically be the exact same as taking it out or not?
The pump is held on with a metal bracket, the bracket is held on with I think 3 m6 cap heads you access them through the inlet manifold ( look down into the engine bay through the manifold and you’ll see them) Once they are taken out it’s just a matter of unplugging the hose attached to the pump, unplugging the electrical wire and then wiggling the pump out of the engine bay 👍🏻 I hope this helps, I took mine out a while ago so tried my hardest to remember 😂
Doing this will throw an engine code now n then, the best solution is to get it mapped out by a tuner, the other method is just keep deleting the light with a scanner tool 👍🏻
Great video. It’s always been educating watching yours! When I changed the air intake, I accidentally broke the small ball-shaped connector where right under the air-flow sensor hose. Now I put some adhesive tape on it and I can still hear some air leaking when idling. Even after the whole SAI delete process I saw it’s still strongly tightened. Would that be a big problem in your opinion? Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you mate 👍🏻 I’m not sure what you mean by ball shaped connector? Air leaking from anywhere isn’t great in my opinion if the cars running ok then the tape is doing it’s job but it’s something you need to get replaced 👍🏻
It doesn’t do much for performance if I’m honest it’s just one less thing to go wrong. You don’t need it it’s purely for emissions, an air pump sucks fresh air and dumps it behind one of the exhaust valves, it’s to do with heating up the catalytic converter faster on cold starts etc
Why would you ever cut an o-ring to make it smaller to fit? I mean, maybe if you're stranded at the side of the road and just need to get to safety, but otherwise..
hello good man, i need your help. did you put the hose on it from the blowoff? I see you have a cable tie on the intake leg. at the beginning the ear cuffs were originally installed. sorry my english is not the best. you have a hose from the intake to the blowoff, is a cable tie enough to fix the hose? thx man
yeah the cable tie holds the vacuum line on no problems. the line was a bit smaller so had to really wiggle it onto the nipple. you can put clips on there if you'd like i was just being lazy
Temperature sensor housing? Here is a link to a all metal setup creationsmotorsport.com/vw-mk4-golf-tt-audi-1-8t-20v-cast-aluminium-coolant-flange-upgrade-kit.html This is the plastic one the part number is on this website too: www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/1886092-febi-bilstein and this is just the metal one on its own: ebay.us/n8gh12 i hope this helps
The SAI plug with or without a resistor will throw an engine code eventually, I believe the only way to keep it off permanently is having it mapped out via a engine tune 👍🏻
As far as I’m aware it’s literally the only way to get rid of it permanently, otherwise you can get a £20 code reader off the fleabay and keep deleting it every 100 or so miles 😂👍🏻
You can leave all the stuff in place and just blank off the plate on the side of the block but it’s kinda pointless, it really is such a simple delete you might aswell do either all of it or none of it in my opinion. It’s entirely up to you but either way you’ll most likely have to use the resistors to stop engine codes coming up. I hope this helps 👍🏻
I didn’t drain the coolant so when I took the temp sensor housing off the block to blank off the sai on the head some coolant did come out, not loads I think it was like half a litre or so? it would be worth draining the system beforehand but if you’re not able to have plenty of rags or an old towel on standby to mop any old coolant up 👍🏻
The o-ring is for the temperature sensor housing but I’d recommend getting the housing too, in the video you see that the plastic deteriorated into nothing, I’m going to be upgrading it to a aluminium housing in a future video. 👍🏻
@@CarsandEngineering it was running good and I put the block off plate as instructed? I’m guessing limp mode cause of the delete?If anything would you know a tuner more economical for the delete?
@@CarsandEngineering you mean the n112 ? Yeah and th3 n249... those came with the sai delete kit I got from uro tuning .. I think it just might need the tune .. it’s a project so I’ll keep you updated pal thanks
It’s attached to a mounting bracket via bolts from above, and there’s a electrical connector to remove too, that’s the main pump anyway, it’s easy to get out just a little bit fiddly 👍🏻
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Nice job man. I had to tear off the entire front end of my passat after the accessory belts shredded and threw off the timing belt by a few notches. But now that it's apart, I see that big silly air pump just easily accessible to remove. Now after this vid I know how to plug it up properly!
I think the passat engine bays are packaged a bit tighter than the polo but it is possible witout taking the front off depending on engine fitted to the vehicle
Hey i know I'm a few years late but what would happen if i just put something in the way so the exhaust fumes cant come out? would it basically be the exact same as taking it out or not?
Struggling to figure out how to remove the pump which you had already done before the video. Be good to know. Thanks :)
The pump is held on with a metal bracket, the bracket is held on with I think 3 m6 cap heads you access them through the inlet manifold ( look down into the engine bay through the manifold and you’ll see them)
Once they are taken out it’s just a matter of unplugging the hose attached to the pump, unplugging the electrical wire and then wiggling the pump out of the engine bay 👍🏻
I hope this helps, I took mine out a while ago so tried my hardest to remember 😂
@@CarsandEngineering thankyou! Can't tell you how much you've helped me with my project!
Happy to help 👍🏻
Great video. Do you pop a check engine light after this operation? and if you do, how you manage it? Thank you!!
Doing this will throw an engine code now n then, the best solution is to get it mapped out by a tuner, the other method is just keep deleting the light with a scanner tool 👍🏻
Great video. It’s always been educating watching yours! When I changed the air intake, I accidentally broke the small ball-shaped connector where right under the air-flow sensor hose. Now I put some adhesive tape on it and I can still hear some air leaking when idling. Even after the whole SAI delete process I saw it’s still strongly tightened. Would that be a big problem in your opinion? Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you mate 👍🏻
I’m not sure what you mean by ball shaped connector?
Air leaking from anywhere isn’t great in my opinion if the cars running ok then the tape is doing it’s job but it’s something you need to get replaced 👍🏻
Great video there.!! I have a quick question, how does the SAI delete affect the performance of the engine?
It doesn’t do much for performance if I’m honest it’s just one less thing to go wrong.
You don’t need it it’s purely for emissions, an air pump sucks fresh air and dumps it behind one of the exhaust valves, it’s to do with heating up the catalytic converter faster on cold starts etc
Great work Jack, it looks much neater mate & must be much less of a ball ache to work on?! 😎👍🏻
Thank you mate, yeah it gets a lot of shit out the way to be honest 😂
Boa noite , quando faço esse procedimento e retiro essa peça egr. Eu preciso fazer remap ou nao ? Retira a bomba secundária também correto.
Why would you ever cut an o-ring to make it smaller to fit? I mean, maybe if you're stranded at the side of the road and just need to get to safety, but otherwise..
I did say it was for the purpose of the video…. And if it don’t fit, make it fit.
hello good man, i need your help. did you put the hose on it from the blowoff? I see you have a cable tie on the intake leg. at the beginning the ear cuffs were originally installed. sorry my english is not the best. you have a hose from the intake to the blowoff, is a cable tie enough to fix the hose? thx man
yeah the cable tie holds the vacuum line on no problems.
the line was a bit smaller so had to really wiggle it onto the nipple.
you can put clips on there if you'd like i was just being lazy
@@CarsandEngineering thx man👍🏼👍🏼
hey, i cant seem to find the right temperatur sensor housing. may you have a part number or sth that could help me out?
Temperature sensor housing?
Here is a link to a all metal setup
creationsmotorsport.com/vw-mk4-golf-tt-audi-1-8t-20v-cast-aluminium-coolant-flange-upgrade-kit.html
This is the plastic one the part number is on this website too:
www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/1886092-febi-bilstein
and this is just the metal one on its own:
ebay.us/n8gh12
i hope this helps
@@CarsandEngineering thank you very much man
Do you need to put a resistor on the sai pump's plug? Or can you just on plug it and leave it?.
The SAI plug with or without a resistor will throw an engine code eventually, I believe the only way to keep it off permanently is having it mapped out via a engine tune 👍🏻
@@CarsandEngineering hrrmm, ok. I may be going stage 2 this year so will ask the guy to map it out I guess 👍.
Cheers mate
As far as I’m aware it’s literally the only way to get rid of it permanently, otherwise you can get a £20 code reader off the fleabay and keep deleting it every 100 or so miles 😂👍🏻
@@CarsandEngineering 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Do all these 1.8s leak oil, like crazy??
They don’t leak oil they sweat power…. 😂
Do you have to delete the n249 or can I just blank off the part where the vacuum line goes too?
Or the n112, the one that has the vacuum line from the tower valve.
You can leave all the stuff in place and just blank off the plate on the side of the block but it’s kinda pointless, it really is such a simple delete you might aswell do either all of it or none of it in my opinion.
It’s entirely up to you but either way you’ll most likely have to use the resistors to stop engine codes coming up.
I hope this helps 👍🏻
Did you drain the coolent before removing it or did you just go for it , also does loads come out or just a bit??
I didn’t drain the coolant so when I took the temp sensor housing off the block to blank off the sai on the head some coolant did come out, not loads I think it was like half a litre or so?
it would be worth draining the system beforehand but if you’re not able to have plenty of rags or an old towel on standby to mop any old coolant up 👍🏻
@@CarsandEngineering I did it and not too much came out , thanks for the videos on this delete mate it really helped and I managed to get it done
Good mate, I’m glad it helped you out 👍🏻
I’m currently producing a video for a oilcatch can setup so keep your eyes peeled for that too!
What was the o-ring called ? Doing this at the weekend and I want to buy one from vw, cheers fantastic video
The o-ring is for the temperature sensor housing but I’d recommend getting the housing too, in the video you see that the plastic deteriorated into nothing, I’m going to be upgrading it to a aluminium housing in a future video. 👍🏻
After my sai delete on a 1.8 t the car won’t roll forward or backwards without over stalling the engine is that tune for this issue?
I’m not sure, was it doing this before the delete? I assume not?
The only think of is if you didn’t blank the port off on the head?
@@CarsandEngineering it was running good and I put the block off plate as instructed? I’m guessing limp mode cause of the delete?If anything would you know a tuner more economical for the delete?
Yeah contact a tuner mate, something isn’t right for it to be stalling.
Have you deleted the n122 and the n249?
@@CarsandEngineering you mean the n112 ? Yeah and th3 n249... those came with the sai delete kit I got from uro tuning .. I think it just might need the tune .. it’s a project so I’ll keep you updated pal thanks
@@strongarcwelds4163 howd u go bud ?
Do SAI need resistor?
No mate, even if you put one in it would still throw an Engine light I’m afraid, if needs to be mapped out by a engine tuner 👍🏻
How do you remove the Sai unit?
It’s attached to a mounting bracket via bolts from above, and there’s a electrical connector to remove too, that’s the main pump anyway, it’s easy to get out just a little bit fiddly 👍🏻