Seriously Internet GOLD. Breaks it ALL down. Informative on every level. Noob to people looking for answers and understanding on learning how this platform makes power on any level from bolt ons to SC or Turbo. Without fully knowing the whole system and purpose....... there is no point. Thank you
oh man. Thank you for explaining this. you're the only one who actually explained how the SAI heats up the Cats. it was not making any sense to me, I kept watching videos on it, and everyone keeps explaining how the system actually works but not even touching the point as to why the SAI heats up the CATS. my brain keeps thinking that the exhaust air coming out of the engine is actually very hot so it should be the one heating up the CATS, and not the Ambient Air which is actually at a significantly lower temperature than the exhaust air. now it makes sense with the chemistry lesson you added to explain this. thank you.
I had my 09 audi for over 3 years and look numerous times for a video like this and never found one, I was about to venture and clean the carbon behind the valve heads, I am going to cancel the convi valves and remove the air pump. Thank you very much!
This is incredibly informative. I don't even have this engine (or model) and I couldn't help but watch this all the way through. Easy channel subscribe. Looking forward to seeing what else is on your channel.
I have a 2007 b7 s4 and It felt like some days or times when driving I would have a big loss of torque. I recently got the timing chains and tensioners fixed as well as the cam adjusters and it’s a night and day difference in performance
Yup, the main principles are the same across all manufacturers. The differences are mainly in how the valve(s) at the back of the head are controlled (vacuum like in this video vs. electronically for "newer" cars). Before I understood how and when the SAI system works I was always curious as to why there was a "fan" noise when cars startup. Well, that's it. Thanks for watching.
@@FigureItAudi It's 100% vaccuum controlled on the 3l. And I have an issue with the intake actuator manifold when I accelerate, and I suspect SAI pump to be involved.
I spy with my little eye, a Bentley SM on the top shelf of the black tool box. That's 5lb of gold right there...Plans for the S8? What do you drive when both the S4 and S8 are on lifts?
Excellent video! I have a 2010 Q5 3.2L and I am trying to tune out the SAI cycle from the ECM. I looked at the Jackal Motorsports website, but I do not see any tunes available for the Audi 3.2L. I am wondering if you have any suggestions as to how I can tune out the SAI cycle and who might be able to do it? Thank you. Joe
You can probably still contact Matt @ Jackal and ask if they're able to whip up a custom "tune" that is essentially just the SAI delete and nothing else.
@@FigureItAudi Okay thank you! I emailed and text messaged him. Hopefully he will get back to me. I will keep my fingers crossed that he will be able to help.
loved this video been trying to do this on my 1.8t a4 and i feel like im just lost with all the extra lines that there is ! any chance of doing one on a 1.8t
I'll be honest, the chance is 0%. But like I usually recommend to folks trying to understand how a certain system in their Audi is constructed, head to ilcats.ru and go find the vacuum system diagram for your car. Stare at it and your car long enough and I promise you'll figure it...audi.
Good thing to check is the wiring for the knock sensors. It has little to no slack when removing the intake manifold. It can cost you a heap of power. Ask me how i know.
The one that leads to a T-fitting and goes to each SAI valve on the back of the heads? Because when those 2 lines merge into 1, that's the only vacuum line that travels under the intake manifold. Usually its on the drivers side of the manifold but someone could have just routed it wrong at some point. If it's that one, it connects to the front solenoid like in this video. If none of this adds up to you, go on ilcats.ru and search your vehicle > Engine > and start looking for vacuum diagrams. The answer will be there.
I’ve noticed that you mentioned covering solenoid/ suction components with a vacuum cover . What did you cover your metal pipe above SA pump passenger side?
Since I also removed all the SAI components behind the head (ie nothing was left intact or open to the engine from the back side of the feed pipe), I didn't bother plugging anything since it's an open unused pipe.
Don't smog tests measure the hydrocarbons emitted from your exhaust system? You'll fail regardless because of no cats due to that...and that alone will throw a DTC. Doing anything further with the SAI system would only make all that worse. Technically, even if you had cats, removing the pump might make the smog test fail in the first minute because...you know...that's why it exists. Short answer, no.
So, what did you do when you broke that little plastic cap on the solenoid? Asking for a friend… The solenoid itself is $170 new and just for that stupid plastic cap seems like a waste. Any solutions you found?
I just JB welded the pieces back together since it only broke into a few sections and carefully popped it back on. Months later I came across another valve that came with other parts and I swapped the cap.
I'm enjoying your use of the word "delete" for the CEL here. Just removing stuff isn't going to fix your problem...in fact it'll likely cause even more. You really just need to solve the root issue here by fixing/cleaning the valves (which may not be the valves themselves at all - it could easily just be a vacuum leak or issue with the solenoid controlling them) and then clearing the trouble codes to see if they return. The fact you're calling out the valves themselves makes me assume you have a tool to read codes.
Hey Oscar - No, I don't like to do destructive modification just in case I ever have the need to reuse OE parts. All I did with the female connectors was tape them off to avoid getting junk in there but all I did was safely zip tie them against the harness nearby.
I got both these codes on my Audi Q5 3.0LTFSI S-Line. Should I get the dealer to run their own diagnostics and let them tell me how I should proceed from there. I believe there was a TSB on this issue in the U.S., It covered all years up to 2016 for the 3.0L TFSI engines. Mine is a 2016. Any advise would be helpful. Thanks, Allan in Calgary.
Which codes, Allan? If you already have the DTCs, the dealer is unlikely to tell you anything you don't already know or that can't be found on the Ross Tech forum. I'm a bit allergic to the dealer, so if you're like me (ie not ok paying for simple tasks that should be free...) and you do not have your P-codes on hand, I'd look to Facebook so find a local enthusiast with a Ross Tech cable to give you a quick scan.
The codes I have are P0491 for bank 1 and P0492 for bank 2, both happening at the same time from my own CanOBD2 Diagnostic Tool. It says “Secondary Air Injection System (Bank 2) for P0492. While P0491 says “Secondary Air Injection System (Bank1)”. My scan tool is pretty old and pretty basic, I bought it about twenty years ago for $250.00.
That's good, it's actually more useful the code is being thrown on both banks because it means the problem is further up stream (since the odds of there being fault O2 sensors, or kombi valves, or anything that would be odd to fail in pairs is low) is a lot easier to deal with. When the car is totally cold and first started, do you hear the SAI pump kick on? It'll sound like a fan blowing and very obviously from down in one side of the bumper (ie not the rad fan in the middle - plus you could easily see that spinning). If it's pumping air but the air isn't making it past the valves, it's likely the solenoid managing the vacuum to open the valves that died. Cheap part, just need to locate it in the bay and make some working room. If no noise, it's just the pump. What I just said here is probably 90% or 200% of what you could pay the dealer $180 for a scan for and learn.
In the U.S. Audi of America will honour the cleaning of the exhaust ports and all associated costs under the “TSB” Technical Service Bulletin for 10 years or 120,000 miles as a good will gesture. The U.S. TSB reads and I quote “01 MIL on DTC P0491 and P0492 stored at the same time in the ECM. 01 18 93 2033001/16 November 30, 2018 Supersedes Technical Service Bulletin Group 01 number 18-79 dated July 12, 2018 for reasons listed below. Under certain driving conditions, air ports in the cylinder head can accumulate carbon time, causing a restriction. Many Canadian cars were serviced by Audi Canada as well although I know of no service bulletin issued in Canada. This is at the time that VW was under the eye of the world for their diesel emissions scandal. The didn’t need any more bad publicity. I don’t think they are feeling as nervous as they were, now that the storm clouds have blown over. Their cleaning of the ports involves using a special power washer of 1900 psi with two special wands and the service tech has to have two training courses to learn the procedure of running this power washer without ruining the engine. This is not a solution, the carbon will build up again but you should be good for another 100,000 kilometres or so. The TSB does explain that the test conducted by Audi can isolate if the cleaning is necessary or not by testing the back pressure in the exhaust manifold. This is done by pressing the brake and gas pedal at the same time and then start test on the ODIS tester. You know what I get a rash when I get within 100 feet of a dealership but in this situation I might have a case (yes I know, it’s not a John Deere). What do you think?
I have just read your 2nd reply and what you say makes a lot of sense but I don’t think I would have figured that out on my own (thanks). I did that test on Saturday morning Feb.3rd on a cold start, I had my wife turn off the engine after about 10 seconds of running while I listened for the electric powered fan to shut off and wind down and yes I heard it do that. So not the fan, must be a faulty solenoid.
That's right, I skipped plugging the upper SAI hole since the intake is being changed entirely. It's a good question though because if I had to plug it, this is when I end up going to Home Depot and just looking for something that works, like a rubber or silicone cap that I could band clamp to the port.
So im a new owner of a B7 S4. We have just gotten into some negative temps in edmonton as you know....all of a sudden this thing has been shuddering and misfiring on cold startups. It had never done this before so as you can imagine, i am thinking, coils, injectors, pvc, vacuum leaks ect. Ive been trying to find a solution here. My CEL's have just deleted themselves somehow and not able to read anything.. I stumbled across your video here....could this be what the hell is happening on cold starts? I have the stage 1 jackal tune but no information on it yet(havent heard back from the jackal peeps). Either way. I subbed to you a month ago or so. You have a ton of good info man. Thank you
In theory, yes - I just can't personally, confidently say "yes". In all systems, there's a pump the moves air to a valve that is operated conditionally (maybe by vacuum, maybe by electrical solenoid) and releases air to the exhaust. Obviously, you need to understand the exact layout of your specific platform.
I do not, my friend - that's why I explained you need to understand how, in which specific way(s), your tune deals with SAI deletes. Or that you'll need a tune to handle the fault codes you create. And unlike going catless and getting away with it via O2 sensor spacers, messing with the SAI system isn't as easily corrected when it comes to tricking the ECM.
So, that is the very ugly loud noise every morning under the engine... pump defect. I got fault on secondary air flow bank 3 and 4 for at least 4 years, even my webasto heater doesn't work beacuse of that.
Jk I believe the answer is yes because everything is routed the same as in your video. Since this is deleting the sai, this eliminates the process and codes associated with the with those airway ports known to get blocked with carbon right?
I have a 2009 VW rabbit with only 110K miles that I'm very close to having to trash because of a stupid emissions test. I'm not auto handy but thrown into it as my dealer charged me $200 to tell me my check engine light issue = secondary air injection system sensor and it will cost me $1400 to fix it. While I'm tall and fit well and love to drive my VW, it's an extra car and their total list of repairs was $5,000 and not going to happen.
Might be a smaller grouping of us in the B7 area that are looking for EXACTLY this content. We appreciate it. Keep doing what you are doing!
Seriously Internet GOLD. Breaks it ALL down. Informative on every level. Noob to people looking for answers and understanding on learning how this platform makes power on any level from bolt ons to SC or Turbo. Without fully knowing the whole system and purpose....... there is no point. Thank you
Agreed ^^^
oh man. Thank you for explaining this.
you're the only one who actually explained how the SAI heats up the Cats. it was not making any sense to me, I kept watching videos on it, and everyone keeps explaining how the system actually works but not even touching the point as to why the SAI heats up the CATS.
my brain keeps thinking that the exhaust air coming out of the engine is actually very hot so it should be the one heating up the CATS, and not the Ambient Air which is actually at a significantly lower temperature than the exhaust air.
now it makes sense with the chemistry lesson you added to explain this. thank you.
I had my 09 audi for over 3 years and look numerous times for a video like this and never found one, I was about to venture and clean the carbon behind the valve heads, I am going to cancel the convi valves and remove the air pump. Thank you very much!
Can confirm doing this motor in car sucks, but happy it's done.... Love the content keep it up
This is incredibly informative. I don't even have this engine (or model) and I couldn't help but watch this all the way through.
Easy channel subscribe. Looking forward to seeing what else is on your channel.
I have a 2007 b7 s4 and It felt like some days or times when driving I would have a big loss of torque. I recently got the timing chains and tensioners fixed as well as the cam adjusters and it’s a night and day difference in performance
Thanks for explaining how this system works
Great share! Informative, simple & engaging. Keep em coming 👊
I have always wondered about the liquid coming out of exhaust pipes. Thanks Steve for educating me. :)
which time stamp did he mentioned about that?
I’ve been trying to find a video exactly like this for a while. Thank you 😅
Great tips!! Thanks for the info! Love the 007 Goldeneye n64 music from the sound of it, ha! Love the insights though, thanks!
One tip for ya, punch and drill holes before cutting the bits out. Will make it heaps easier to drill them :)
I don't have a S4, but I do have an A4 B6 with the SAI system in a 3l. Thanks for the explanation.
Yup, the main principles are the same across all manufacturers. The differences are mainly in how the valve(s) at the back of the head are controlled (vacuum like in this video vs. electronically for "newer" cars). Before I understood how and when the SAI system works I was always curious as to why there was a "fan" noise when cars startup. Well, that's it. Thanks for watching.
@@FigureItAudi It's 100% vaccuum controlled on the 3l. And I have an issue with the intake actuator manifold when I accelerate, and I suspect SAI pump to be involved.
So what’s do you do with the Secondary Air Injection Control Valve plug let me know please because i like the idea but what’s up with the plug ?
I spy with my little eye, a Bentley SM on the top shelf of the black tool box. That's 5lb of gold right there...Plans for the S8? What do you drive when both the S4 and S8 are on lifts?
For now (before the snow falls), there's actually a 4th car that won't be on the channel for a number of months still. Channel members know :D
Great content.
Excellent video! I have a 2010 Q5 3.2L and I am trying to tune out the SAI cycle from the ECM. I looked at the Jackal Motorsports website, but I do not see any tunes available for the Audi 3.2L. I am wondering if you have any suggestions as to how I can tune out the SAI cycle and who might be able to do it? Thank you. Joe
You can probably still contact Matt @ Jackal and ask if they're able to whip up a custom "tune" that is essentially just the SAI delete and nothing else.
@@FigureItAudi Okay thank you! I emailed and text messaged him. Hopefully he will get back to me. I will keep my fingers crossed that he will be able to help.
loved this video been trying to do this on my 1.8t a4 and i feel like im just lost with all the extra lines that there is ! any chance of doing one on a 1.8t
I'll be honest, the chance is 0%. But like I usually recommend to folks trying to understand how a certain system in their Audi is constructed, head to ilcats.ru and go find the vacuum system diagram for your car. Stare at it and your car long enough and I promise you'll figure it...audi.
Good thing to check is the wiring for the knock sensors. It has little to no slack when removing the intake manifold. It can cost you a heap of power. Ask me how i know.
What about SAI codes i.e. codes from air pump and vac solenoid, will they pop up and how do you turn them off?
Hey , just wondering where does the vacume line under the intake manifold on the passenger side go to ?
The one that leads to a T-fitting and goes to each SAI valve on the back of the heads? Because when those 2 lines merge into 1, that's the only vacuum line that travels under the intake manifold. Usually its on the drivers side of the manifold but someone could have just routed it wrong at some point. If it's that one, it connects to the front solenoid like in this video. If none of this adds up to you, go on ilcats.ru and search your vehicle > Engine > and start looking for vacuum diagrams. The answer will be there.
I’ve noticed that you mentioned covering solenoid/ suction components with a vacuum cover . What did you cover your metal pipe above SA pump passenger side?
Since I also removed all the SAI components behind the head (ie nothing was left intact or open to the engine from the back side of the feed pipe), I didn't bother plugging anything since it's an open unused pipe.
@@FigureItAudi thank you very much
Can I remove the air pump and block the holes without a tune? I have to smog test it, so cant have a check engine light on. Also have gutted cats
Don't smog tests measure the hydrocarbons emitted from your exhaust system? You'll fail regardless because of no cats due to that...and that alone will throw a DTC. Doing anything further with the SAI system would only make all that worse. Technically, even if you had cats, removing the pump might make the smog test fail in the first minute because...you know...that's why it exists. Short answer, no.
So, what did you do when you broke that little plastic cap on the solenoid? Asking for a friend…
The solenoid itself is $170 new and just for that stupid plastic cap seems like a waste. Any solutions you found?
I just JB welded the pieces back together since it only broke into a few sections and carefully popped it back on. Months later I came across another valve that came with other parts and I swapped the cap.
How to delete the engine check light which comes up because of faulty combi valves? Can I delete the engine light without removing everything?
I'm enjoying your use of the word "delete" for the CEL here. Just removing stuff isn't going to fix your problem...in fact it'll likely cause even more. You really just need to solve the root issue here by fixing/cleaning the valves (which may not be the valves themselves at all - it could easily just be a vacuum leak or issue with the solenoid controlling them) and then clearing the trouble codes to see if they return. The fact you're calling out the valves themselves makes me assume you have a tool to read codes.
@@FigureItAudiYou are right and thank you for your instructions.
What are you doing with the solenoid plugs? You cutting them off and protecting the wire?
Hey Oscar - No, I don't like to do destructive modification just in case I ever have the need to reuse OE parts. All I did with the female connectors was tape them off to avoid getting junk in there but all I did was safely zip tie them against the harness nearby.
@@FigureItAudi oh ok! Thank you for the response. I really enjoy your videos!
I got both these codes on my Audi Q5 3.0LTFSI S-Line. Should I get the dealer to run their own diagnostics and let them tell me how I should proceed from there. I believe there was a TSB on this issue in the U.S., It covered all years up to 2016 for the 3.0L TFSI engines. Mine is a 2016. Any advise would be helpful.
Thanks,
Allan in Calgary.
Which codes, Allan? If you already have the DTCs, the dealer is unlikely to tell you anything you don't already know or that can't be found on the Ross Tech forum. I'm a bit allergic to the dealer, so if you're like me (ie not ok paying for simple tasks that should be free...) and you do not have your P-codes on hand, I'd look to Facebook so find a local enthusiast with a Ross Tech cable to give you a quick scan.
The codes I have are P0491 for bank 1 and P0492 for bank 2, both happening at the same time from my own CanOBD2 Diagnostic Tool. It says “Secondary Air Injection System (Bank 2) for P0492. While P0491 says “Secondary Air Injection System (Bank1)”. My scan tool is pretty old and pretty basic, I bought it about twenty years ago for $250.00.
That's good, it's actually more useful the code is being thrown on both banks because it means the problem is further up stream (since the odds of there being fault O2 sensors, or kombi valves, or anything that would be odd to fail in pairs is low) is a lot easier to deal with. When the car is totally cold and first started, do you hear the SAI pump kick on? It'll sound like a fan blowing and very obviously from down in one side of the bumper (ie not the rad fan in the middle - plus you could easily see that spinning). If it's pumping air but the air isn't making it past the valves, it's likely the solenoid managing the vacuum to open the valves that died. Cheap part, just need to locate it in the bay and make some working room. If no noise, it's just the pump. What I just said here is probably 90% or 200% of what you could pay the dealer $180 for a scan for and learn.
In the U.S. Audi of America will honour the cleaning of the exhaust ports and all associated costs under the “TSB” Technical Service Bulletin for 10 years or 120,000 miles as a good will gesture. The U.S. TSB reads and I quote “01 MIL on DTC P0491 and P0492 stored at the same time in the ECM. 01 18 93 2033001/16 November 30, 2018 Supersedes Technical Service Bulletin Group 01 number 18-79 dated July 12, 2018 for reasons listed below. Under certain driving conditions, air ports in the cylinder head can accumulate carbon time, causing a restriction. Many Canadian cars were serviced by Audi Canada as well although I know of no service bulletin issued in Canada. This is at the time that VW was under the eye of the world for their diesel emissions scandal. The didn’t need any more bad publicity. I don’t think they are feeling as nervous as they were, now that the storm clouds have blown over. Their cleaning of the ports involves using a special power washer of 1900 psi with two special wands and the service tech has to have two training courses to learn the procedure of running this power washer without ruining the engine. This is not a solution, the carbon will build up again but you should be good for another 100,000 kilometres or so. The TSB does explain that the test conducted by Audi can isolate if the cleaning is necessary or not by testing the back pressure in the exhaust manifold. This is done by pressing the brake and gas pedal at the same time and then start test on the ODIS tester. You know what I get a rash when I get within 100 feet of a dealership but in this situation I might have a case (yes I know, it’s not a John Deere). What do you think?
I have just read your 2nd reply and what you say makes a lot of sense but I don’t think I would have figured that out on my own (thanks). I did that test on Saturday morning Feb.3rd on a cold start, I had my wife turn off the engine after about 10 seconds of running while I listened for the electric powered fan to shut off and wind down and yes I heard it do that. So not the fan, must be a faulty solenoid.
What are you using to block off the top hole in the air box? Or was that left out because your not using the stock box after this?
That's right, I skipped plugging the upper SAI hole since the intake is being changed entirely. It's a good question though because if I had to plug it, this is when I end up going to Home Depot and just looking for something that works, like a rubber or silicone cap that I could band clamp to the port.
So im a new owner of a B7 S4. We have just gotten into some negative temps in edmonton as you know....all of a sudden this thing has been shuddering and misfiring on cold startups. It had never done this before so as you can imagine, i am thinking, coils, injectors, pvc, vacuum leaks ect. Ive been trying to find a solution here. My CEL's have just deleted themselves somehow and not able to read anything.. I stumbled across your video here....could this be what the hell is happening on cold starts? I have the stage 1 jackal tune but no information on it yet(havent heard back from the jackal peeps). Either way. I subbed to you a month ago or so. You have a ton of good info man. Thank you
This should apply to all mqb cars right?
In theory, yes - I just can't personally, confidently say "yes". In all systems, there's a pump the moves air to a valve that is operated conditionally (maybe by vacuum, maybe by electrical solenoid) and releases air to the exhaust. Obviously, you need to understand the exact layout of your specific platform.
Don't you have a permanent check engine light after this?
I do not, my friend - that's why I explained you need to understand how, in which specific way(s), your tune deals with SAI deletes. Or that you'll need a tune to handle the fault codes you create. And unlike going catless and getting away with it via O2 sensor spacers, messing with the SAI system isn't as easily corrected when it comes to tricking the ECM.
Can you explain in a simple way how to shut the engine light?
So, that is the very ugly loud noise every morning under the engine... pump defect. I got fault on secondary air flow bank 3 and 4 for at least 4 years, even my webasto heater doesn't work beacuse of that.
Anyone know if this works on the q5? (3.2, 2011 in my case)
Jk I believe the answer is yes because everything is routed the same as in your video. Since this is deleting the sai, this eliminates the process and codes associated with the with those airway ports known to get blocked with carbon right?
I have a 2009 VW rabbit with only 110K miles that I'm very close to having to trash because of a stupid emissions test. I'm not auto handy but thrown into it as my dealer charged me $200 to tell me my check engine light issue = secondary air injection system sensor and it will cost me $1400 to fix it. While I'm tall and fit well and love to drive my VW, it's an extra car and their total list of repairs was $5,000 and not going to happen.
I always wonder what is the purpose of the secondary air injection. Now I know.
Jackel ftw
🙂 you must love pain, reminds me of myself in my younger years.
Check engine on my Mk6 gti. SAI is nonsense. Unless I could get it to run while at emissions testing( while running a 200 cell cat.)