True T-49 Cooler Freezing Product Electronic Thermostat Retro Kit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ธ.ค. 2019
- True T-49 Cooler Freezing Product With Electronic Thermostat Retro Kit installation. Reach in coolers are generally sealed critically charged systems that sometimes need refrigerant added because of a refrigerant leak, I show the procedure True Manufacturing recommends to check the operation prior to adding refrigerant taps to check the charge.
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Here is the link to True Manufacturing below this comment. Thanks for watching, please subscribe and leave me some feedback. Thanks again for investing your time into my videos!!! www.truemfg.com/Support/Resource-Library
Are these evaporator fan motors supposed to run while the compressor is off?
Generally yes, it helps to know what type of system we're talking about to be 100% sure
Reach in cooler like this one model TS-49 and also does the black probe have to be by the fan motor? What would happen if it isn’t.
@@concernedpersons1995 I would follow the directions for the best results.
@@concernedpersons1995 yes it is
That tip on checking coil temperature cycle is awesome. TH-camrs like you make us better Techs!!
Man I have made a lot of mistakes, and I'm always looking for a better, faster, easier way of fixing things. Your welcome!
Great video and followed factory troubleshooting methods. They put out tech manuals for a reason.
thank you for sharing that info about the true website. its really good to know there is actual info on their equipment
A lot more information than what some manufacturers have out there, they're not perfect but they have good support for their equipment.
I’ve been working on trues for years and never knew that way of testing the system prior to tapping the system thank you for showing that I will definitely be using that from now on
Yep, everything you want is pretty much on there including all the basics of refrigeration and how some of their different controllers work in regards to the logic behind them.
Fancy
Great video, thanks for info
Great vid! I knew most of those temp controls sense coil temp but I never thought of taking the fan blades out and sticking a probe in the coil, makes perfect sense. Like I’ve mentioned before, I always learn something from ur videos. Thanks
Thanks Jason, one thing I also learned is if you take the cover off and do that test, Still remove the fan blades. The slightest amount of air through the coil will raise the coil temperature and mislead you to believe there's a refrigeration issue. Like I keep telling everyone, The reason why I mention stuff is because it's either something I made a mistake on or a question that I used to have.
Kudos to you for using factory stuff. On a T-49 cooler at my work place i used a A421 temp controller and it has worked amazing so far.
I stock two Ranco universal controllers on my truck. But I've had instances where they don't work on some prep tables because of the design. We don't get paid for callbacks so we use OEM thermostats and start components.
@@HVACRSurvival smart policy.
Thank you!!! True doesn’t have the OEM temperature sensor they give you the one in your video. Thanks for a quick tutorial easy enough but they don’t make these very easy to access without taking everything down and the fan blades off.
Good video man..To the point and informative..Didn't know to check coil temp before tapping system..Two thumbs up!!
Thanks Brian👍👍
Great stuff Rick !
Thanks man! I did a video on this control previously but it's one of the ones that I took down. So I figured I would try posting something similar to it again.
Yeah I remember your original video
@@HVACRVIDEOS 😳👍👍
Fluke 52 Thermometer. Best digital thermo of all times, period. 👍 (I love this shielded thermocouple you use)
Thanks, Here is the link to the probe if you want to support the channel. amzn.to/2srQIoq
Awesome video!
Thank you sir👍👍 Glad you liked it.
Nice video buddy.👍I like how you trouble shoot. Keep up the good work
Thanks Gabriel! I appreciate you watching!
thanks for the video.
You got it!
Really good content..Well done 👍
Thanks Brian👍👍
Great video
Thanks Juan!
good video, thank you
Your welcome, thanks 4 watching!
Mucho bueno Ricardo !!!!
😁👍👍
Good Vid. Yep, the Standard Troubleshooting method Straight out of the book. Works good For testing cut in and cut out Temps on a temperature control. Kinda like unplugging a water pump on a ice o matic to test pressure control cut in. i believe i actually have a Thick book form true from a while back that has all that stuff u printed out . These Days i use the iPhone and save all these type pdfs to ibooks and Eliminated Almost all of My Books Off the Truck. One Day i Went to the Truck and Tossed about 50 Lbs of Books and Binders. i Cleared Out an Entire Shelf of Binders and books From the Service Body. i Have Never Looked Back. i Have a few Books i Like but, 96% Went in the Dumpster.
Well your just a treasure trove of info ... Lol ... Great informative vid Rick ... Much appreciated ...
These are all questions and mistakes that I made, that's why I make these videos. I made a lot of mistakes and these things I point out are things that I did not know.
@@HVACRSurvival That's why we like your vids ...
great video, easy checks for charge. I like their concept. The only thing I may do different, is place the thermistor from my Fluke beside the stat sensor location. I usually have my customers place a Dixie cup with water inside when they say things are freezing. The standard 41F has started to get lower now, like 38 or 39F.
also, The Ranco controls with the fixed 41F can actually be adjusted.
It would make more sense to have it where the thermostat bulb is located but for some reason in the paperwork if you read through it they talk about putting it there in the middle of the evap? Generally 40 degrees or colder is what I usually see on the health department paperwork. But I believe the health department allows it possibly up to 41 degrees. I don't know if that's National or if that's just local rules.
another good video thank you . Ranco is best choice for me.
I only use those if I absolutely have to, otherwise I use the OEM Part. I had to go back out later and replace the Ranco with OEM because it wasn't keeping the box at temp.
@@HVACRSurvival most of the time they can not wait for the OEM they just want the thing works as it should.
not uncommon for thermostat contacts to arc closed and keep running, even with the updated add "relay kit".
they just went from high current arc on break to high voltage back emf arc on break from solenoid, when they went to relay kit, but it did help the terminal melting and contact overheat lol :)
Great video, thank you. I think we have the same thermistor? I found a lab grade thermistor for checking cooling and heating temperature. I think I paid $75.00.
I like Cooper Atkin's thermisters. They seem to be the most accurate out there and they're made in the USA.
My true freezer chills on one side but freezes on the other any suggestions too get it to freeze entirely
Personally I would have got the same oem part since its steadily available. Make sure it's either coil or air sensing. Save the customer time and labor. Customers remember the little things.
According to True, the electronic stat I used is what they are saying is now what they want you to use.
My compressor won't turn on the new tstat I have has neutral live in comp and aux stuck now
Hey Rick is it possible to share temperature probe u used in this video for FLUKE thermometer. Thanks. Just trying to find something rigid like the one you use.
cooper atkins probes
Where do you get that information from TRue? Is it in the user manual for that unit or is there other service literature that they put out?
www.truemfg.com/Support/Resource-Library
Look around and see what they have, there's some good stuff there.
i ahve a T49G we bought in 2015. after 3 years it started freezing stuff on inside. compressor kept running and running would not turn off. im not a tech, but i winged it and assumed the analog thermostat on the inside went poop. replaced it myself and it ficed the problem. i think TRUE screwed up here putting in an analog mechnical therostat INSIDE the cooler where it is subjected to cold, condensation and moisture. it was destined to fail eventually and the new part will to in time. would u agree with my notion on this casE? i think the newer TRUE t-49s have elctornic ones now that are outside the unit
The True reach in coolers and freezers have both mechanical and electronical still today. Some are inside and some are outside of the compartment.
One I just replaced was from 2001 so I’d say ours worked as it was supposed to.
👍👍
Thanks Harry👍👍
Survival. You know where I can find all the True model reach in or freezer evap temp to check refrigerant charge? Thanks!
Did you look at the direct link I posted?
Question. What kind of thermostat do you installed. Old temperature control was coil sensitive & the new thermostat I saw it had to two thermistor. Thanks for you answer
That is the OEM thermostat that TRUE called for, like I mentioned in the video, 1 thermistor senses the Box temperature meaning it's going to shut off at true temperature of the box and the other thermistor goes in the evaporator so that it knows the evaporator has melted all the ice before bringing the compressor back on. Generally it comes back on somewhere around 38 to 39 and 1/2 degrees.
@@HVACRSurvival great idea!
I have a T-49 and today i notcied water leaking in it. I took the cover off and noticed there was a HUGE chunk of ice in the drain pan that sits below the evaporator coils. no ice on the actual coils just a big chunk in the drain pan. do you know what might cause this when there is no ice on the coils but just in the drain pan?
Thermostat might be sticking causing it to freeze one time and allowing it to thaw the coil the next time? Hard to know for sure without checking the whole system over.
@@HVACRSurvival Would it possible the drain clogge filling the pan and the water froze?
Yes it could a plugged drain line or a bad pan or drain heater not working.
@@HVACRSurvival yes. assuming the evap coils were working properly an defrosting (given no ice on actual coils) , if the pan underneath fills with water, it is possible for it to freeze? I guess keep an eye on it to see if it happens again
If it doesn't drain yes it'll freeze and grow
I have a t 49 that is freezing food. The evap coil temp. drops to 9 degrees f before shutting off the compressor. The cabinet temp. reads 20 degrees f. Could this be a bad temperature control valve?
It could be a thermostat or the system could have a refrigeration issue like low on refrigerant.
Nice video , mate .
Quick question , I'm trying to find the best amp clamp multimeter for our trade that I can afford, and as much as I love Fluke , it's just too expensive.
I was looking at the Amprobe Amp 320 , it does have quite a few features that you just don't find at this price point .
Now , yourself being a user of Amprobe , do you notice any difference from Fluke , as far as precision , accuracy and trust worthiness goes?
I mean , that's my main concern going to another brand , I've tried Klein but I got some funky measures which led me to loose some trust in them ,
And I'm not in the US so Fieldpiece is not really available to me .
Looking forward to your point of view , mate , thanks for your time , cheers !
Amprobe is owned by Fluke, and serviced at there facility. Amprobe has great features and better accuracy than some Fluke meters. My only complaint has been short battery life, but that's a different model than your looking at. I just looked up your 320, I about purchased that one. I believe it would be a great meter. They have a 1 year warranty. Heck I have several high end Flukes and only a couple are made in the USA, that might not matter to you but it does to me, it means they care about quality more than fast money. . So I would give it a try👍👍
@@HVACRSurvival Wow , I had no idea they were owned by them , that's great , man , thank you very much indeed .
I think you've just sold me , mate , they should give you a cut , innit ! 😁
About the battery life , I remember you spoke about it in your tool bag review , but that shouldn't be a problem for me cause I use a lot of rechargeable batteries and I have a fast charger for them , so they're always available.
Thank you very much indeed , the accuracy and reliability is th most important to me and you just made me feel better about it , Cheers !
I have a True TSD-69G triple door reach in coiler. The temp controller is turned all the way up and inside temp is around 34-35 degrees. Could my controller be going bad and how hard is it to replace.
I need to know what your definition of turned-up is? Are you wanting it colder or warmer?
Question: Just purchased a used True GDM-41SL-54.. it cools just fine - compressor kicks on and off - no problem - but the fan doesn't shut off - so will the fan run 24/7 ?? Sounds like it will run up the electric bill... any way to have it shut off when the compressor shuts off, or is that a safety feature that must not be modified ?? Thanks!!
Depending on on how new it is generally a cooler runs the fans Non-Stop. If it's a freezer, the fans stop whenever the doors opened or the unit is in a defrost. Those fans don't pull a lot of power and when the compressor is in the off-cycle, the fans continue to run so it melts any frost off the evaporator.
@@HVACRSurvival Ah, good to know - we were just concerned about our electric bill going 'through the roof'... thanks for your response !!!
If the food is/was actually frozen would taking the temp of the coils be necessary? I would think the coils were well below 18° if the food was actually frozen
You gotta remember why I said take a temperature of the coil, what I was trying to do was show, whether or not the system was likely under charged without having to tap it with a valve.
@@HVACRSurvival great troubleshooting! Very helpful
Hi I have a T-19 fridge and I have knob set to 1 and the unit is still running very cold. The temp sensor I put in is reading 0 Celsius. Any recommendations?
If your EVAP is not reaching 17-19* f with the fans off there is a compressor or refrigerant problem.
@@HVACRSurvival and if it is I should change the temp sensor control?
@@bro1029384756 that's what it sounds like but I can't be sure of that without doing a proper diagnostic. Why not have a service company check it for you?
Hey boss. What kind of temp probe are you using.
Fluke 52ii and Cooper Atkins probes. They should be linked in my tool kits below in the description if you want to purchase through Amazon. They pay me for sending you the link
@@HVACRSurvival Thank you
Fans not working
#33 thumbs up
Am I the only that prefers mechanical over the electrical? I’ve had too many problems
I've heard of them having problems already with the electronic thermostats but that's what they are now providing for a OEM replacement so that's what I had to put on. I've used ranco and they don't always work like they're supposed to. This is way for True to stock one control that does a lot of different units versus several different thermostats. It comes down to money saving for the company and less stock for us to stock.
I personally don’t prefer the electrical control we have had a bunch of issues with them
@@DW-bo3qw I have a feeling they won't hold up as well, but if that's what they got for OEM Parts I'm covered. Like I said we don't get paid for callbacks and if I use an after-market part and there's an issue then it's on me otherwise if it fails then it's on the part not me.
HVAC*R Survival these replace the freezer ones too?
HVAC*R Survival agreed completely I use one parts whenever I can like you said covers you and callbacks aren’t cheap
True refrigerators are junk. Nothing but problems I've had. Customer Service stinks as well.