Nice mods I did basically the same a few months ago to a para 2 in Maxamet with also flytanium backspacer in purple ti. Love the stonewash on the flytanium ti scales
High speed steel isn’t referring to knife style cutting. It’s referring to use as a tool on a lathe or a milling machine. So like 500rpm being plunged into a peace of steel around .150” or so and resisting the heat and chatter as well as the pressure in the cut. Hence the high speed name. 500rpm is a bit fast for a HSS cutter tho...
Has nothing to do with rpm. Has more to do with surface footage. Rpm depends on tool diameter. High speed came from the steels being able to cut faster than just normal high carbon that machinists used to use like 80 years ago.
I live close to ocean in Ireland, despite obviously salty particles, if keeping maxamet well maintained and lubricated with Balinstol oil all time, should I still expect problems or these are mitigated with well maintenance? I love my Sage in Maxamet and I'm sincerely hoping maintenance would suffice in keeping this blade spot on. Don't mind patina developing over time
You will have to constantly upkeep it and it still might have minor issues. Why would you choose such a poorly suited steel for you environment? Are you cutting cardboard 24/7? Salt + moisture is an absolute nightmare for any steel with corrosion issues.
Yeah. People made sharpening maxamet seem a lot worse than it is. My k390 seems harder to sharpen than maxamet. I've even seen m390 that seemed to take more time to sharpen.
You've probably seen me commenting on a lot of your videos. Just trying to boost the views! I really like your channel. Thanks for taking the time to record and post.
Just found your channel, great video! PM 3 is a favorite edc of mine, been debating with my wallet wether to step up to the maxamet. Looking forward to further posts.
Thanks for checking out my vids! Yeah I think for everyday use, the normal Para 3 is more than capable. I chose the maxmet cuz I wanted something a lil different and I do love a good patina!
Thanks for the information. I have a paramilitary 2 on the way in maxamat and I was thinking that I might need to return it due to some of the negatives I read based on what you have to say I think I’m going to keep it and try it out. I don’t have very much experience sharpening my knives aside from kitchen knives. You mentioned the sharpmaker. Is there any specific stones or grit that you would also recommend for sharpening this knife or anything in s35 vn. Thanks again for the video.
Yes I was hesitant as well based on what I heard but after carrying and using Maxamet, I’m so glad I did. It’s ultra sharp, not as hard to sharpen as I thought, and not as fragile either. It’s kept sharp the longest by far than any other knife in my rotation. Maxamet is some magical stuff. For the sharpmaker, I used the standard rods it came with.
would like to add to my collection MAXAMET. currently have P3 and PM2 ... but which model to choose? like them both. Maybe PM2, like, to have more MAXAMET?) or P3?
I’ve had both models and for my everyday carry needs the PM3 is all around perfect. But the PM2 is also a perfect knife so if you want more Maxamet, go with the PM2 for sure!
Great video bud!! Curious, what oil do you use to maintain your maxamet? And do you think there is any other steel that's comes close to maxamet in edge retention but is resistant to rusting?
Ive had my eyes on maxamet for awhile but havnt pulled the trigger, closest I have to it would be K390 and love it! Still want one not sure in what model tho.
I recommend either the Sage or the Para 3. I think they provide a small footprint that cuts weigh above their weight in terms of cutting power and ergos. K390 is super intriguing to me. I wonder how both compares to each other.
@@these7seas sage most definitely, would like to take advantage of go rc with better edge geo behind the edge. But you should try K390 according to tests that ive seen online two are very comparable with edge retention. But toughness and strength is where they differ.
Your welcome! Mine was interesting cuz I didn’t get any chips per say. I dropped the knife on concrete twice and it kinda chipped but after I sharpened it via my sharpmaker, there were no chips or issues.
I’d say between the two, K390 would be better suited cuz I heard it’s tougher and more chip resistant than Maxamet. Both will still patina and corrode since it’s a tool steel. As long as you take care of it, no problem.
@@dustinwhitt5297 At this time im not into a fixed blade type, i more into folding or flipper.. and i like pm2 or pm3 style blade shape because i feel comfort using it, my current pm2 blade shape make me feel easy to guide and glide through thick skin when i skinning the animal. im just looking for other blade steel that can last a bit longer than my s30v.
@@harisyoung4110 skinning deer is tough on any steels edge, I can almost guarantee you that if you get better edge retention, it will chip and damage the edge extremely easy the moment you hit some bone, and then your out with your damaged knife without the necessary diamond sharpening stones and compounds to fix it, your far better off carrying a tougher blade with lower hardness along with a dc4 (or similar) and a small strop pre loaded with compound. You can always strop that tougher steel back to New in a few swipes, maxamet with a massive chip in however you can't. Edge retention is far from the most important trait and for skinning large game personally I'd say it has no place. If I were to take something like maxamet hunting I would literally be so concerned about it getting damaged on bone I would need to take a spare knife in a different steel that I can trust to hold up to anything and strop back in no time, and at that point why bother taking it at all.
I think it really depends on if you can sharpen and how well. If you can, i think you shouldnt go for maximum edgeretention but rather a good balance of maintainability/edge retention. If you get your knives sharpend from someone else, i think maxamet is a good investment
@@barkingspider2007 I like it. I snapped the tip off mine in 2 days by dropping it on the floor though. I had it reground and reshaped also had it acid stonewashed looks good and has a lot less danty tip that’s still much more acute than any of my other knives
Hey man I was just wondering on how you got that sick patina. Was it forced or did it just develop naturally. Anyways I hope you continue making awesome content that goes into these types of topics. Stay Safe
Be careful with the maxamet, I snapped mine trying to gently pry an arrow out of a soft pine board. (ltwas a cold night) It does hold an edge for a ridiculous amount of time and gets scary sharp just brittle, had this exact knife and do miss it but you have to treat it careful. Sure you know this just don’t forget it!
"edge retention" is not hardness. Not even close. What most knife bros mean when they say "edge retention" is actually ABRASION RESISTANCE. Which is a known quality of steel, it's also probably the least important quality of them all, including corrosion resistance. Knife bros love to hyper focus on it and wrongly call it "edge retention" which is something else entirely, something more complex and multi factorial, thus takes more than your average knife bros room temperature IQ will allow them to grasp. The reason knife bros are so foolishly over obsessed with "edge retention" is because they literally don't know how to sharpen a knife, so they think they might find a magical steel that won'; need to be sharpened. Unfortunate for them that's not how the real world actually works anywhere other than inside the mind of a little boy manchild brain. Actual Edge Retention is a combination multiple factors including hardness, toughness, abrasion resistance and even corrosion resistance, because guess what? Edges are delicate and yes even corrosion can dull a keen edge. You want something that is hard enough to resist rolling, which is one form of inclusion, or chip, which is edge failure. Hard to retain an edge if you don't have one anymore huh? So you can see there is more to "edge retention" durr than just abrasion resistance. As for hardness and it's relationship to abrasion, they are marginally correlated but its a myth that they are the same. Sorry but maxamet in it's annealed soft state will still have a lot more abrasion resistance and thus be harder to grind or sharpen than a basic carbon steel would have when it's fully hard. Anyone that has actually put knives on stones will know this just practically speaking. Now if you have the same exact steel the harder it is the more it will resist abrasion, but this is marginal compared to the difference of one type of steel, like a basic non alloyed carbon steel, even at extremely high hardness, vs a high alloy/carbide steel. Because it's the carbides, the type and the quantity, that are giving the matrix most of it's abrasion resistance not the hardness of the matrix. The hardness is relevant for other reasons and yes it's very relevant. The two most important things in a knife steel for most cases are probably hardness and toughness, which is what you need to make a thin knife that will stay sharp even after it loses edge keeness and keep cutting without breaking or edge failure.
The ceramic vs. plastic cup analogy is a really good way to illustrate the point of hardness vs. toughness!
I'm waiting on my first maxamet knife that I got from the secondary market. I bought a Spyderco Native 5 in maxamet.
I appreciate your video on this!
For people who want a steel similar to Maxamet in edge retention but not vulnerable to corrosion, try s110v. Stainless and has great edge retention.
Nice mods I did basically the same a few months ago to a para 2 in Maxamet with also flytanium backspacer in purple ti. Love the stonewash on the flytanium ti scales
High speed steel isn’t referring to knife style cutting. It’s referring to use as a tool on a lathe or a milling machine. So like 500rpm being plunged into a peace of steel around .150” or so and resisting the heat and chatter as well as the pressure in the cut. Hence the high speed name. 500rpm is a bit fast for a HSS cutter tho...
Yeah after doing a bit more research saw that. Thanks for letting me know 👍🏻
Has nothing to do with rpm. Has more to do with surface footage. Rpm depends on tool diameter. High speed came from the steels being able to cut faster than just normal high carbon that machinists used to use like 80 years ago.
I domnot know where blade hq get the information for their charts... apparently they have m390 and s90v as same edge retention? No shot.
Down to earth review. I love it. Thank you for the insights.
Thanks for checking out my vid!
Just ordered this with rock scales titanium milled scales.
I live close to ocean in Ireland, despite obviously salty particles, if keeping maxamet well maintained and lubricated with Balinstol oil all time, should I still expect problems or these are mitigated with well maintenance?
I love my Sage in Maxamet and I'm sincerely hoping maintenance would suffice in keeping this blade spot on. Don't mind patina developing over time
Should be fine just patina
You will have to constantly upkeep it and it still might have minor issues. Why would you choose such a poorly suited steel for you environment? Are you cutting cardboard 24/7? Salt + moisture is an absolute nightmare for any steel with corrosion issues.
Yeah. People made sharpening maxamet seem a lot worse than it is. My k390 seems harder to sharpen than maxamet. I've even seen m390 that seemed to take more time to sharpen.
Excellent illustration of hardness through plasticity.
Would you recommend the Maxamet or the S45VN?
You've probably seen me commenting on a lot of your videos. Just trying to boost the views! I really like your channel. Thanks for taking the time to record and post.
Thanks for your interaction and watching my vids!
That’s awesome
Just found your channel, great video! PM 3 is a favorite edc of mine, been debating with my wallet wether to step up to the maxamet. Looking forward to further posts.
Thanks for checking out my vids! Yeah I think for everyday use, the normal Para 3 is more than capable. I chose the maxmet cuz I wanted something a lil different and I do love a good patina!
Get a K390 blade, man, practically the same but cheaper. Even try with more affordable FRN scales models, as an Endela, Delica or Butterfly for EDC.
Thanks for the information. I have a paramilitary 2 on the way in maxamat and I was thinking that I might need to return it due to some of the negatives I read based on what you have to say I think I’m going to keep it and try it out. I don’t have very much experience sharpening my knives aside from kitchen knives. You mentioned the sharpmaker. Is there any specific stones or grit that you would also recommend for sharpening this knife or anything in s35 vn. Thanks again for the video.
Yes I was hesitant as well based on what I heard but after carrying and using Maxamet, I’m so glad I did. It’s ultra sharp, not as hard to sharpen as I thought, and not as fragile either. It’s kept sharp the longest by far than any other knife in my rotation. Maxamet is some magical stuff. For the sharpmaker, I used the standard rods it came with.
Very good steel, I have Native 5 Lightweight CTS Maxamet and I love it.
Crucible makes maxamet not carpenter... CPM-MAXAMET
@@EDCandLaceCarpenter makes Maxamet, a quick Google search should confirm that for you.
would like to add to my collection MAXAMET. currently have P3 and PM2 ... but which model to choose? like them both. Maybe PM2, like, to have more MAXAMET?) or P3?
I’ve had both models and for my everyday carry needs the PM3 is all around perfect. But the PM2 is also a perfect knife so if you want more Maxamet, go with the PM2 for sure!
Great video bud!! Curious, what oil do you use to maintain your maxamet? And do you think there is any other steel that's comes close to maxamet in edge retention but is resistant to rusting?
Try s110v
Hey man, great knife. I have the same model. I know patina is great but I would still clean and lube your blade a little.
Yeah most definitely, thanks for looking out!
Thanks for your video, greetings from Mexico , enjoying my PM2 Maxamet
Good to hear!!
Nice mods. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for your video. Q: Where on the Blade HQ website is this chart posted? Do they chart many other steels? Thanks again.
Another excellent video broski!
Much appreciated!
I like the patina.
Ive had my eyes on maxamet for awhile but havnt pulled the trigger, closest I have to it would be K390 and love it! Still want one not sure in what model tho.
I recommend either the Sage or the Para 3. I think they provide a small footprint that cuts weigh above their weight in terms of cutting power and ergos. K390 is super intriguing to me. I wonder how both compares to each other.
@@these7seas sage most definitely, would like to take advantage of go rc with better edge geo behind the edge. But you should try K390 according to tests that ive seen online two are very comparable with edge retention. But toughness and strength is where they differ.
Does K390 have better toughness than Maxamet?
@@these7seas I believe it does, just lower hrc
That makes sense
Highly recommend. anything to do with knifes he is the man
Hahaha appreciate it bro!
Had some chipping with maxamet. picked up a pm2 in k390. hope the k390 is a good pick. thanks again for the video 😎👍
Your welcome! Mine was interesting cuz I didn’t get any chips per say. I dropped the knife on concrete twice and it kinda chipped but after I sharpened it via my sharpmaker, there were no chips or issues.
Is that blade with the black style coating? How did that hold up?
No this is uncoates Maxamet. The dark spots you see is the natural forming patina that happens with use
Can you send me all the links I want to build one identical, your knife is gorgeous 🙏🏻
Flytanium Titanium Stonewashed Scales: www.flytanium.com/item/569/Titanium-Scales-for-Spyderco-Para3
BladesWeLove Bronze Titanium Body and Pivot Screws and Lanyard Tube:
www.ebay.com/itm/NO-KNIFE-Titanium-Screw-or-Screw-Tube-Plug-sets-for-Spyderco-Para-3-c223gp-/184073632913?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
i have pm2 in s30v and often use it to skinning and foodprep deer when out hunting.. what steel will suit for this job, maxamet or k390 ?
I’d say between the two, K390 would be better suited cuz I heard it’s tougher and more chip resistant than Maxamet. Both will still patina and corrode since it’s a tool steel. As long as you take care of it, no problem.
Get you a benchmade altitude in s90v. Lightweight fixed blade that's highly corrosion resistant while keeping an amazing edge.
@@dustinwhitt5297 At this time im not into a fixed blade type, i more into folding or flipper.. and i like pm2 or pm3 style blade shape because i feel comfort using it, my current pm2 blade shape make me feel easy to guide and glide through thick skin when i skinning the animal. im just looking for other blade steel that can last a bit longer than my s30v.
@@harisyoung4110 skinning deer is tough on any steels edge, I can almost guarantee you that if you get better edge retention, it will chip and damage the edge extremely easy the moment you hit some bone, and then your out with your damaged knife without the necessary diamond sharpening stones and compounds to fix it, your far better off carrying a tougher blade with lower hardness along with a dc4 (or similar) and a small strop pre loaded with compound. You can always strop that tougher steel back to New in a few swipes, maxamet with a massive chip in however you can't. Edge retention is far from the most important trait and for skinning large game personally I'd say it has no place. If I were to take something like maxamet hunting I would literally be so concerned about it getting damaged on bone I would need to take a spare knife in a different steel that I can trust to hold up to anything and strop back in no time, and at that point why bother taking it at all.
I think it really depends on if you can sharpen and how well. If you can, i think you shouldnt go for maximum edgeretention but rather a good balance of maintainability/edge retention.
If you get your knives sharpend from someone else, i think maxamet is a good investment
Thanks for the response!
I live on the coast in a rainy area. Definitely not a Maxamet or K390 friendly area of the country.
I went with k390
NIce. Better than Maxamet?
these7seas I couldn’t tell you. I don’t own max
Had some chipping with maxamet. Picked up a PM2 in K390. Hope the K390 is a good pick.
@@barkingspider2007 I like it. I snapped the tip off mine in 2 days by dropping it on the floor though. I had it reground and reshaped also had it acid stonewashed looks good and has a lot less danty tip that’s still much more acute than any of my other knives
Good vid man.
Much appreciated
Hi, did you say the edge roled? Not chipped?
Yeah the edge rolled which surprised me because this stuff is super chippy based on specs
Thanks for the response, wow I can't believe it, I think about a para 3 in maxamet, now I buy one. Thank you from Germany
It’s a steel that’s on the next level for sure 👍🏻
Toughness is dubious there is a video guy throws one of these at a concrete floor blade snaps right at the hole, VG10 would have rolled at most
VG 10 would've snapped as well.
That guy sounds like a dumbass. why would you throw your knife at a concrete floor and where can I find the video to see for myself ?
So does that mean maxamet turns dark everyime?
Not every time but more often so you just need to take care of it a little more. Honestly it’s not as bad as it seems.
Good talk. Pro tip: never cut toward the family jewels! Yes, it's funny. But don't do it!
Hahaha appreciate for looking out!
Great video , can you please help and tell me where did you buy that handle and screw -lplease best regards
See my response to the previous comment. I provide the links
tht blade could use some mineral oil, to stop staining
Hey man I was just wondering on how you got that sick patina. Was it forced or did it just develop naturally. Anyways I hope you continue making awesome content that goes into these types of topics. Stay Safe
Appreciate it! Patina was developed naturally as I used it to do food prep, stir coffee, ect. I love a good patina and Maxamet is a patina monster!
@@these7seas do you have any Rex45 bro? Takes the best patina ive seen
Toughness isn't so bad... I've seen dudes hack at hardwood, cut hard plastic and Aluminum (!!!) with no damage, just some minor loss in sharpness...
Maxamet is S110V, without the corrosion resistance.
No
@@Treeguy-ny6vb Just curious why? I'm kinda new to super steels, but also would really like to know which steels do you prefer the most?
Be careful with the maxamet, I snapped mine trying to gently pry an arrow out of a soft pine board. (ltwas a cold night)
It does hold an edge for a ridiculous amount of time and gets scary sharp just brittle, had this exact knife and do miss it but you have to treat it careful. Sure you know this just don’t forget it!
You are the reason every EDC knife on the market is 59-60 rc made of s35vn and looks like a sharpened pry bar.
This steel is too hard for its own good. I started on s90v and quickly learned not to take that to work. Cruwear/magnacut all the way.
so scared about rust
In my experience it’s been pretty good. No rust so far. I just wipe it down regularly after use. It’s a patina monster tho!
Maxamet sucks for pocket knives or any outdoor knife.
"edge retention" is not hardness. Not even close. What most knife bros mean when they say "edge retention" is actually ABRASION RESISTANCE. Which is a known quality of steel, it's also probably the least important quality of them all, including corrosion resistance. Knife bros love to hyper focus on it and wrongly call it "edge retention" which is something else entirely, something more complex and multi factorial, thus takes more than your average knife bros room temperature IQ will allow them to grasp. The reason knife bros are so foolishly over obsessed with "edge retention" is because they literally don't know how to sharpen a knife, so they think they might find a magical steel that won'; need to be sharpened. Unfortunate for them that's not how the real world actually works anywhere other than inside the mind of a little boy manchild brain. Actual Edge Retention is a combination multiple factors including hardness, toughness, abrasion resistance and even corrosion resistance, because guess what? Edges are delicate and yes even corrosion can dull a keen edge. You want something that is hard enough to resist rolling, which is one form of inclusion, or chip, which is edge failure. Hard to retain an edge if you don't have one anymore huh? So you can see there is more to "edge retention" durr than just abrasion resistance. As for hardness and it's relationship to abrasion, they are marginally correlated but its a myth that they are the same. Sorry but maxamet in it's annealed soft state will still have a lot more abrasion resistance and thus be harder to grind or sharpen than a basic carbon steel would have when it's fully hard. Anyone that has actually put knives on stones will know this just practically speaking. Now if you have the same exact steel the harder it is the more it will resist abrasion, but this is marginal compared to the difference of one type of steel, like a basic non alloyed carbon steel, even at extremely high hardness, vs a high alloy/carbide steel. Because it's the carbides, the type and the quantity, that are giving the matrix most of it's abrasion resistance not the hardness of the matrix. The hardness is relevant for other reasons and yes it's very relevant. The two most important things in a knife steel for most cases are probably hardness and toughness, which is what you need to make a thin knife that will stay sharp even after it loses edge keeness and keep cutting without breaking or edge failure.
I don't know much about this subject but a softer, low chromium blade get a sharper edge?