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The psychology of the knife nut is a strange and interesting thing. I’ve chased and purchased a ton of knives in exotic steels and yet 90% of the time when I leave the house I have something like a Delica in my pocket because I know that after a day out the maintenance on it is going to be easy when I get home. I’ve got a drawer full of super steels and yet I find myself choosing something that’s “good enough” more often than not. Go figure. 🤷♂️
@@phillipnunya6793 With my work knives I’m cutting layers of shrink-wrap and plastic sheeting, cardboard, plastic banding, the occasional zip tie when I’m in a hurry, etc. By “maintenance” I’m referring to regular stropping as I intensely dislike the chore of setting up and using my sharpening equipment, so I generally prefer more pedestrian steels on my work knives like VG10 and 14C since it’s easier and quicker to keep an edge on them in that manner.
@@krazykat64 Ah, fair enough. It almost seemed like you were saying you had a bunch of great knives with high edge retention and carbon fiber scales that would be perfect for lots of cutting though abrasive materials like cardboard and tip ties all day, but you don't want to use any of them so you use cheap knives instead.... Wait... Seriously though, I understand your point. Sharpening is a pain in the ass, especially if you don't have the right sharpeners. It just seems to me that you would be better off using a steel that keeps an edge though the day and makes things easier at work, then honing it for a minute when you get home on a ceramic rod or something easy to do quickly. You wouldn't need to sharpen it as much that way. Sharpening is already a dedicated and time consuming process anyway (at least if you do it well), so why not do it once a month for an hour instead of twenty minutes once a week?
It is honestly so refreshing to hear someone in the knife community not tell me that I need a knife made of adamantium or vibranium to open Amazon packages or slice an apple.
@@WheresWaldo05 Your name sounds like a random jumble of words you carelessly strung together to make yourself feel like you have even an ounce of some kind of power.
A good question and one I've been asking myself (quietly) for awhile. I've certainly fallen down the knife "rabbit hole" and have seemingly more and more knives in "super steel" -- that make absolutely no difference in my use. I often wonder how many knife fans are like me -- find them intriguing, like to buy and watch reviews -- but my actual USE in a given week or month is mostly FIDGETING plus a few package opening and once in a great while breaking down a box or two. I remember when VG-10 was a "great steel" and "good to go" (older reviews), now it gets a sneer on new knives as in "eh, it's only got VG-10". I'm trying to remind myself on a regular basis that VG-10, 154 CM, 30V, 35V and even Nitro V are each enough to (more than) meet my needs.
I'm about to buy my first "super steel" a maxamet pm2 as I've wanted a Spyderco for a while and figured why not try a super steel also. While I've been researching for months I've been successfully enjoyed the D2 boker Kalashnikov that I've EDC'd for almost a year without issue 😂. It's gone above and beyond and I honestly don't even need to sharpen it more than once every few months.
@@DavidDoingLifemaxamet for your first pm steel is a pretty bad idea. it’s not tough at all and when you eventually need to sharpen it you’ll want to die
A really relevant video for a “knife guy” or sillycology student. If I only had a Delica 4 and a Police 4 in S30V, I could do anything I ever need to do with a knife, yet I now have about 2 dozen Spydercos in various steels and can’t seem to part with any of em.
I love super steels but sometimes it’s also REALLY nice to have a steel like 440c because it’s so easy to sharpen. S30V is a good zone for me personally. It lasts plenty good and it’s pretty easy to sharpen. I have a manix lightweight in S110V. It’s a pain to sharpen
I couldn’t agree more, especially about the S30V. I have a mini griptilian in S30V with a sheep’s foot style blade and I love it. I use almost everyday and it’s been more than satisfactory.
You need super abrasives to sharpen s110v. s110v isn't just a stainless 10v, it's a special blend that has Nb added in it, which is even harder than vanadium. Any steel that has more 3 or 4 % vanadium isn't going to sharpen properly on ceramic alumina beyond very course grits, or even green sic beyond say 1k grit, what you really need are diamonds or cbn. s110v is a great steel for a pocket knife. The key to that kind of stuff is to maintain it. Strop it on 5 um diamond powder on wood after you use it. It will stay sharp basically forever unless you chip it, or unless you let it get too dull between maintenance, in that case you'll need to actually grind a new edge which is a nightmare without super abrasives. s30v is really great general use blade steel. All most folks would ever need. I prefer XHP. Imo that's the best one of the balanced all use stainless blade steels. Better than s30v, s35vn, magnacut, all that shit. I'm guessing it's better than s45 too. S90v is another sweet spot for a high resistance stainless steel. Vanadis steels are the shit. Laminated steels are great too. Get something like k390 and laiminate it with lc200n or aebl. Anything much beyond 10v class is too unbalanced in the direction of carbide replacements for a lot of uses.. 15v, maxamet, etc.
Lc200n is my favorite steel. It's super easy to sharpen, holds an edge for a long time in my experience and completely stainless. There's something super nice about just cutting food or wet things and not worrying about cleaning the blade.
@@sixfootseven fair. I use mine for stuff, like boxes n that at work, couldn’t imagine putting it to any bit of food without a clean and I don’t want it sticky afterwards if fruit or carrying bacteria if uncooked meat lol
I guess like you mentioned, it really depends on how often you use your knife. For most follks, steels like 14C28N would be more than enough I suppose.
I think the difference between using a high retention knife to one that's not, is just a different way you would maintain them, Ie butchers use soft knives that constantly need touching up with a steel, and are easy to sharpen. I don't think there are any butchers that use super steels. I know EDC knives are used differently but, even with 14c28n on a pocket knife, you can keep it constantly going by quick touch ups, even a quick strop on the palm of your hand does wonders. So what I'm saying that even a knife guy who loves knives, doesn't need a super edge retention knife
I fell into this knife addiction trap buying these super steels like the Spyderco limited , exclusive and sprint runs that put me into debt . This is done on purpose by knife makers to keep buyers buying in a frenzy of addiction like a drug addict .Each month some new steel or handle variation comes out or sprint run or something else . I said no more ! , I do not need 5 Spyderco Manix 2 in different steels or handle colors . There is a mania over Spyderco and Great Eastern cutlery knives . I do not collect either of these anymore and I sold many and just kept a couple for my personal use. Actually I prefer the 1095 carbon steel of the Great Eastern cutlery over all the super steels, because they are very easy to sharpen which I like . Unless you are a collector and can afford to spend these big dollars , all you need is a traditional folding knife that is affordable and available for regular purchase. Like Great Eastern cutlery , Otter Messer , Mercator knives in basic carbon steels. These will do the job for most people they work for me with no complaints and are affordable user knives.
Mark, you aren't informing anyone here. We all know this. Most of us have just accepted it. I'm fully aware that new steels are used as a marketing catalyst. I just don't care. Performance varies just enough that it makes it interesting. Buy the stuff you like and ignore the rest. Move on with life
Absolutely loved CPM M4 in the Benchmade Contigo until I had it clipped in my pocket doing yard work. Went to us it after an hour or so and the edge was rusted. Yes, I've got corrosive sweat but I was pretty surprised at just how quickly.
The steel definitely makes a difference. But as long as you aren’t using trash soft steel, the differences are minor. That being said, Ive never been blown away by a steel until I got some Rex 45.
Honesty Rex 45 and Maxamet are the only steels where I've noticed a difference. I've been using my native 5 in Rex 45 for a few months now and it legit has not dulled or even started to form a patina or rust. I live Cali near the ocean and Rex 45 has just been insane.
Been carrying a basic Swiss army knife my whole life and decided to look for something (nicer, fun-er, cool-er..) and have been enjoying all your videos. Really appreciate the down to earth review style you have. I feel like you have a buy big, buy basic are al treated the same here. It’s wild how there’s thousands of knives out there and only maybe a had full that seem appealing. Keep up the good work.
MC Dude - this comment has nothing to do with this specific video, but I'm TH-cam dumb and don't know how to contact you otherwise because I don't do the other social medias. I love your very educational and fun channel and I have some suggestions that I hope you will consider doing a video: 1) "Accessorizing a knife": specifically replacing the clip. Where do you find replacement clips, especially when changing over to a deep carry clip? Replacing bearings, etc. Is there an "aftermarket" knife parts supplier? 2) "All metal knives": Considering bearing cages, handles, washers,etc - Does anyone.make all metal knives? If so, please do a video on them? 3). "Converting an assisted flipper to a non-assisted flipper": Can it be done? Is it relatively easy to do? Can you show us how? Thank you for your consideration sir.
My experience with m390 is that it's plenty tough for me. I've never had a problem with it. I'm also not a rancher or a construction worker, so it's great for me. But I've used my knives for the occasional prying or whatever, I don't shy away from pretty much anything. What makes me really happy is a knife that's RAZOR sharp, and I've found that m390 is easier for me to put a wicked edge on than any other steel. Yes, it will hold that edge for a good long time as well, but it's the wicked sharpness that I love. Blade geometry plays a role in that too, so in general I look for wide blades in m390.
I'm glad you like M390 and think it's tough enough for what you use it, but I want to note that toughness plays an underestimated role in edge retention. The toughness of a steel isn't useful only when prying, it's about how shallow of an angle you can put on the edge before it starts chipping, because geometry is more important than hardness or wear resistance when it comes to edge retention. M390 chips rather easily so I wouldn't take it lower than 17 (at most) DPS. I for one prefer stropping a rolled edge as opposed to grinding away steel to fix a chip so give me toughness over wear resistance. 3V, V4E, M4, CruWear, PD1, Magnacut, 14C28N, LC200N, even 19C27, 52100, 80CrV2 are all good options for some crazy shallow edges, and the shallower the angle the longer it holds a working edge, which balances out the lower wear resistance / hardness.
gotta love beater knives though, works for most edc tasks and doesn't need babying because it's cheap and easy to fix up. That being said, I love my funky premium steels
I would like to know your thoughts on k390. But you’re right for most people steel composition doesn’t matter. We also have to take in consideration the heat treatment and edge geometry. Even a common steel like 52100 can have great performance with the right h.t and geometry. Great video.
I have a PM2 in K390. It’s a high carbon, hi vanadium cold work tool steel. It’s an aggressive cutter when finished with a coarse edge. It’s fairly easy for me to sharpen it on my DMT coarse diamond stone..
@@andrewsteinberg7728 I believe it has to do with the dual piston optimized compression ratio, and the overhead cam lever suspension,also the heat flex rythmatic gyro effect seems to have a better overall balance with cpm 20 CV. Of course several polls were taken with this being the most obvious explanation in a group of cyber steel experts. ⚔️😁
I have a maxamet para 3, and I carry and use it daily. When its dull, I send it to spyderco. Whats the point of super steel if you don't use the knife? Granted, I have a bench made mini bugout in s30v that I try to use more, but my para 3 still comes along.
I bought the Benchmade bugout 535 in M390 and making routine cuts, nothing exotic or difficult. It dulled faster than most gas station knives. Very disappointing. Just received my Manix 2 “Stormtrooper” from GP in Rex 45 and am absolutely blown away at how sharp it was when it arrived. Sharpest knife I’ve ever owned. For any self defense or workhorse tasks, I carry my Gerber 06 auto (tanto, partial serration) in S30V and it has excelled in everything it’s been put up against. But I feel like this Rex 45 is going to be my new favorite for a long time. (Maybe not when I need to sharpen it) but I digress. Amazing steel so far!
Yeah. Supersteels. I find myself wanting the latest, even though I know it doesn’t matter. The knife I carry always (except on airplanes) is a Dragonfly 2 with K390. It definitely doesn’t need sharpening as often as VG-10, and it didn’t cost much extra - and I still have the VG-10 version as well. My most common larger knife uses S30V. Once it was a super steel, now it’s being downgraded as “basic”. But it works great. I do have one knife with El Max. Sharp? Yes. Holds its edge well? Yes. But very expensive. So I seldom carry it.
I’m a week into this knife thing and picked up a para3 spy27. Had the Chinese knockoff and decided the style and size was nice for my edc. So my choices in my area was a para3 in BD1N, SPY27 & Maxamet. I’m in a humid jungle like area so I hope this metal will work out… thx for the info
im gonna get a para 3 lw bd1n steel and gonna learn how to become a beast of a sharpener so when i get better knives I’ll be able to maintain those as well
I bought a sprint run Kershaw Knockout in M390, which for me was expensive. I Carry it often. I figure what the heck, I can’t take it with me so why not? It’s a lot of knife for the weight and carries well in gym shorts. I use it for everything.
This is my 2cents. The least of my worry’s is my blade being stainless. I want something that is tough holds a great edge and sharpens nice. If it’s a mother to sharpen I don’t want no part of it s30v s35vn is def the best all around steel in my eyes. Well rounded that’s a super steel. I think the spy 27 is going to be great also.
All my higher end knives used to be S30V/S35V-- a lot of Spydercos and even my Chris Reeve large Sebenza was S35V. Lately i've been kind of a steel snob!!-- Bought a S110V Para2 to add to my S35VN "standard" PM2-- but I also been buying a lot of "higher end" steel knives lately with blades in M390, C204P, and Elmax-- my last 10 knives I bought past month were all those steels. I now have over 75 knives with all sorts of steels. But my S35v Para2 cuts just as well as my S110V Para2-- but maybe will have to sharpen it a bit more!!. Great presentation .
I go for heat treatment quality and blade/edge geometry, steel is the last thing I would look for. That being said, a good quality steel, made properly, shows it's higher quality from how better it cuts and how longer the edge lasts which is good for folders mainly.
Within the 35 years i use and carry a pocket knife for multiple tasks ,a simple Victorinox serves me right. Easy sharpening no rusting issues and makes it through the day cutting things all the time. 😉
I somewhat obsess over edge retention and absolutely know how to sharpen. Let's not "black and white" this for the sake of self reaffirmation. You can like what you like without simplifying the preferences of other people. That's a small brain move.
@@metal_complex that comment was written 1 year ago. Trying different knives i have different opinion now , so ignore the old comment as my personal opinion 😂
Im afraid to learn to sharpen haha. Still clueless as what to buy in that regard. Luckily i dont have to worry abut that right now as i spent my spending money on a new knife instead..im smrt
I have many different steels and one that works well for me is the old D2. I take care of my knives so corrosion is not a problem for me. I have S35VN, M390 and S20CV blades. Also another favorite is 154 CM. One of my favorite knives has a 440C blade. the edge retention is not very good. Other than the 440C, most users will have no problems with 154CM.
I like the stainless options just bc I can use it more without worrying about what I’m cutting as much. I have v3and m4 that have accumulated rust is a display case (in Texas not near the coast). I’m more careful now.
I’m glad you made this video. Too many people follow reviewers’ opinions as gospel and think they understand what the “best steel” based solely on the edge retention metric and hype. Your point that there is a spectrum of excellent steels for different purposes is a key consideration that more people should be aware of. I’m a semi-professional knife maker, a bit more than a hobby, and this drives me crazy.
Rex 45 is totally sweet. S110v is absolutely insane, I cut a queen memory foam mattress into small pieces, an hours worth of work and cutting, thing still cuts paper.
Edge retention is great until you chip something. Imo toughness shouldn't be overlooked. In the kitchen I feel like a 61 Rockwell 52100 steel is substantially more tolerant than a Damascus/vg10 at the same hardness and similar shape.
What’s wild is liking folding knives AND kitchen knives. Some steels are great for both, some are great for one and not the other. Some are great for some kitchen knives and not for other kitchen knives. Heat treating and hardness levels can be way different. And you talk about blade geometry being important to folders…. It’s 10x more important in kitchen knives, especially for something you’re using for hours a day.
I will never go any more “super” than S30V. It has reasonably good edge retention, is reasonably priced, and is reasonably easy to sharpen. It’s exactly what fits my need for a daily carrier that I do everything from open boxes to beaver-chewing small limbs in the back yard. I like it a lot.
Depends what decade your knife is from lol, supersteels get "De-ranked" when better ones come out. in 2030 REX-45 might be considered a budget steel, because everybody is now using diamond fused tungsten carbide steel REX-97 with a HRC of 85. ATS-34 was "The Super Steel" in it's day like you said with 154CM that was a super steel. 440C and AUS8 were super steels as well. Now they are "Budget Steel" lol funny how a steel can go from "Super" to "Budget" isn't it.
Overall favourite working construction (Building and maintaining communication towers), I'd say CPM CruWear. CTS-204P is also excellent, as is Maxamet, didn't have a good experience with HAP-40, have tried dozens...and I do agree blade geometry plays a bigger role under most circumstances. CruWear is overall my favourite though.
Thinking about picking up a CruWear PM2. I currently have the S45VN version which is great... But after carrying the PM2 I've just come to understand how phenomenal the knife is, and I'd like to upgrade the steel just a bit. I'd like something with a bit more toughness for my use. From what I've read, CruWear is a solid steel in every category. A great all-arounder for EDC use. Also, it's not super expensive. Can't wait to get my hands on it.
If you are questioning whether you need to buy a supersteel then, yes you should. If you need to open mail, then no you shouldn't. If you collect knives, yes you should.
Ideed none of these steels are dream steels. Although, they have improved from the last steel dramatically. Love my m390, s35vn and even D2. IMO, the companies and custom makers out there need to catch us knife enthusiasts attention to want, need, gotta have, impulse buy now now now. Haha we all have our own perfect blade, but there is always need for change or we would all possibly get bored and go to something new to satisfy that got to have moment. Idk I just have an addiction to "that next best thing" that comes out. I'm just glad we have some knives that are better than the last so we can keep that itch alive. I looove my knives🤜💯🤛awsome vid and points u make. Keep on keepn on brotha 🍻
Really good video. I'm new to collecting knives, but have collected old Japanese swords for some time, I like steel blades. I think for most people now that are carrying knives it comes down to stupid man brain. Your car analogy was spot on. We live in a materialistic world where people have to go on social media and flex that they have the best X, Y and Z. That said I think S35VN is probably the best steel, well balanced.
20cv and spy27 is my only experience with super steels. 20cv is my favorite knife steel so far. I do want to get a kershaw in magnacut and a spyderco in k390. Right now im rocking the manix 2 lw in spy27 but really want to get the launch 7 in magnacut.
Heat treat and edge geometry are the most important factor for a user knife imho. Bob Dozier was pretty much the only maker who worked with D2 for years. He figured out the best heat treat for it. Now its everywhere. I'm all for innovation that's what keeps the knife market going.
I had a "super steel" D2 knife. I have learnt that it is difficult to form an edge. As they say, D2 wont take an edge but it will hold it forever. I have now bought a Buck mini Selkirk with Chinese 420HCI steel. I don't know what its edge retention is but at least I can sharpen it to a razor finish. My kind of steel.
d2 isn’t really a super steel, and d2 isn’t hard to sharpen at all really. you should just practice your sharpening skills and invest in diamond stones so it doesn’t take five hours to sharpen d2
I have a theory why some people prioritize edge retention over other aspects of the steel, because a lot of people are either *A)* Lazy and dont want to be bothered with sharpening, or *B)* Don't know how to use or don't have access to stones (Or apparetly Amazon+Google+YT lol....AND dont realize they COULD just have someplace like Cabela's (or manufacturer) sharpen it, usually for free lol)
Hey from Alaska.. I just subscribed =). What model is that benchmade fourth from the left, with a black blade and black and gray scales ? I can’t stop drooling over that beautiful thIng.. I need that exact knife immediately ! my very life depends on it !! It doesn’t of course, but I love the look of it so much it almost feels that way lol. But damn that is a gorgeous knife. I have the Crooked River and Saddle Mountain Skinner.
I’m trying to correct the tanto tip profile of of my Combat Elite, with my Lansky red stone. They went a little slack in the angle on a small portion, and it’s bugged me for years. Maybe that’s why it was cheaper than normal. Anyway, it’s S30V. It’s hard AF to get material removed, and make progress. It’s not that much that needs to be removed, but the coated blade really makes it show the imperfection. S30V must be a super steel, because if this was 154CM, I would have been done by now.
i think for non folders anyway, cpm 3v, is great, maxament is considered needing very little sharpenig and it is true but u need right sharpening stone and way expensive for a less then 3 inch spyderco
It’s hard for me to choose a favorite super steel. I’ve used S30V the longest, 204P (M390) is amazing at everything and S90V held an edge for a loooong time.
Love M390, S30V, S35VN, etc..... Hell, I still have a few D2 knives I completely love! The steel is what it is. If you love the knife, IMO the manufacturer is more important than the steel.
Currently got a Spyderco Urban in CPM S90v in my pocket. Was a bit of a bitch to sharpen and is brand new to me. But I'm also dead happy with a victorinox SAK. At the end of the day, the best knife in the world is the one you have in your pocket.
I don't like sharpening often. So I am about to purchase a Spyderco Maximet. Then probably another, and perhaps another in a different steel. Gotta try them all, right?
I legitimately have not noticed a difference between S30V and S110V in actual use.. none of them have the edge stability where I'd notice the steel difference and its not just sheering that initial crispy edge.. I strop after every single use anyway which knocks that off
Interesting topic of flashlights. I've owned and carried a TON of flashlights and what I've found after owning and drinking the Kool aid of the brightest or best candela or lux and throw and yada yada yada, the feature that is the best and most important to me is durability. I use knives and lights and guns hard (not so much guns let's be honest I work in the shipping warehouse if a factory) I've tried and carried Fenix (my gateway drug) thanks to TNP waaaaay back in the day with the TK22 when it had a whopping 650 lumens!!! To streamlights thrunites nitecore (carried a MH25GT for years which is a pocketable albeit very large light with a throw of 452 M.) To foursevens all the way to surefire. I've landed on and settled down with the lesser known but much higher quality and more durable elzetta. I've carried an elzetta Charlie for four years straight now and it remains to be my "backup hammer" with not so much as a flicker. Sorry this was so long winded, I just had to be part of the conversation. Great content as always, and much appreciated because there was a time I bought my first Kershaw from Walmart and knew nothing of steels, lubrication torx sizes centering and proper edge geometry. I would've eaten this informative and entertaining content up. 🤩
Desperately trying to justify my third Manix 2, this time in Maxamet. While I tend to baby my nicer knives, I don't have any safe queens... But I have a feeling ill baby the hell out of that thing to the point where it was a worthless purchase 😅
A Maxamet Manix 2 is my EDC. I find it's a terrible idea to cut zip ties, which can put lateral strain on the blade edge, leading to some very small chips in mine, but I've sent it out to be sharpened, and I'd say it's back to being about factory. Why you may want it: I can fly through cardboard boxes with this knife in much the same way I might expect a good knife will cut through a piece of paper. I'm sure there are numerous other things this knife can cut very well. I can lay paper down and cut something out quicker than I could with a pair of scissors using the point of this knife. It's also nice to wave it with a zip tie through the hole.
I definitely have too many 20cv blades. I wish RHK would put out some new knives in s35vn like back in the day. I miss my gen 4 even if it didn't flip for sh*t without a wrist flick. I need to be on the hunt for a tri-way s35vn.
Of course the one thing you didn't mention or go into and that is how the steel is tempered is probably the most important aspect of any Steel regardless of whether it's super steel or not. If the steel is the heart of the knife, The Temper is the soul of the knife.
Sometimes you don't have a choice. If you like a certain knife, your emotions buy the knife, not what's always logical. I think I'll wait for a Sebenza in s45vn and Hinderer XM-18 Gen 7. LOL Actually, I don't care what the steel is as long as it will cut through flesh and bone.
Buy what you like, but realize that super steels aren’t magic. My favorite steels? 14C28N because it’s cheap, holds an edge decently well, is very tough, and doesn’t rust readily. H2, because it’s tough, and here in the PNW, a mile from shore…it does not rust.
I just wanted to give a shout out to Sandvik 14c28n. Don’t let all these new trendy super steels overshadow the classics! Although I have a penchant for Elmax as well.
154cm, D2, s30v, and one you didn't mention, cts-xhp. They're great Steels. I got a CRK Inkosinot long ago with s45vn, so far its fantastic. I have 20CV, m390 and rex45 but that's really unnecessary, Most of the super Steels are. Underrated-Buck heat treats 420hc so well and it's so easy to sharpen. I had a 110 that took and held a fantastic edge, I'd get another with a pocket clip.
In other words, buy a Ganzo (or Opinel, or whatever). When it gets dull, throw it away and buy another. No need to learn how to strop or sharpen. LOL. In which Circle of Hell would "shaving toilet paper" be an occupation, and please append "teeter totter" with "see saw" for those of us who insist on "soda" instead of "pop".
No... buy a supersteel if you need it, OR if you want it. Learn to sharpen if you want to, or don't. The point of this video was to explain that super steels don't end up meaning all that much when it comes to common edc tasks, (which is what 80% of us will use them for) but that doesn't mean we can't enjoy them anyway.
dont need ,it prizely, will be seldom use, just for collection, hard to sharpen.. that just for self satisfaction. just enough steel like 440c etc & that more useful
I do cut cardboard alot,i have s30v,15v,magnacut,cruwear, what steel would be better for cardboard cutting? Like watermelon bins from walmart type cardboard
I see a lot of knife guys mentioning that 14C28N is a great budget steel (it is a very good steel that I enjoy), but when I look at the chart on Knife Steel Nerds, 440C actually ranks above it in edge retention if it is hardened properly to the correct final HRC. I don't get why people dump on 440C when it is such a great budget steel that is incredibly easy to maintain. Why doesn't 440C get the respect that 14C28N gets?
Steel for me is less important on a folder than a fixed blade. A fixed blade used in the backwoods for bushcraft or hunting will need to have edge retention as well as corrosion resistance since it maybe days or weeks away from your sharpening equipment. For folder to me LOCK is the most important because I value my fingers. As a basic edc its important, for a combat or martial folder its paramount. ' Companies like Spyderco and Cold Steel has their heat treat (regardless of steel) down to an art so sharpening is always a joy. My sound advice is you may not need a super custom knife, with Adamantium blade, but stick to legit knife companies (not knives made by companies with their name or logo affixed built 3rd party) and definitely not garbage knives if you value your fingers and most of the time today's knives will serve you well.
Love Spyderco, I use to have the Para 3 Maxamet but sold it due to its chipping after a few uses. I own the Spyderco, SPY 27 Para 3 lightweight now. I like it much better.
my grandad had a western brand bone scaled folder, carbon steel maybe 1095 ,had it for many decades never went dull used in basic cutting chores, i think this steel war is a fad, i also think s30v is just fine for stainless super steel, . as for a 3 inch maxamet par mil, yes i admit, had to have it, but i did not really need it, got to kick the habit,
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The psychology of the knife nut is a strange and interesting thing. I’ve chased and purchased a ton of knives in exotic steels and yet 90% of the time when I leave the house I have something like a Delica in my pocket because I know that after a day out the maintenance on it is going to be easy when I get home. I’ve got a drawer full of super steels and yet I find myself choosing something that’s “good enough” more often than not. Go figure. 🤷♂️
What kinda stuff are you doing in a typical day that necessitates daily knife maintenance?
@@phillipnunya6793 With my work knives I’m cutting layers of shrink-wrap and plastic sheeting, cardboard, plastic banding, the occasional zip tie when I’m in a hurry, etc. By “maintenance” I’m referring to regular stropping as I intensely dislike the chore of setting up and using my sharpening equipment, so I generally prefer more pedestrian steels on my work knives like VG10 and 14C since it’s easier and quicker to keep an edge on them in that manner.
@@krazykat64 Ah, fair enough. It almost seemed like you were saying you had a bunch of great knives with high edge retention and carbon fiber scales that would be perfect for lots of cutting though abrasive materials like cardboard and tip ties all day, but you don't want to use any of them so you use cheap knives instead.... Wait...
Seriously though, I understand your point. Sharpening is a pain in the ass, especially if you don't have the right sharpeners. It just seems to me that you would be better off using a steel that keeps an edge though the day and makes things easier at work, then honing it for a minute when you get home on a ceramic rod or something easy to do quickly. You wouldn't need to sharpen it as much that way. Sharpening is already a dedicated and time consuming process anyway (at least if you do it well), so why not do it once a month for an hour instead of twenty minutes once a week?
Why would you rather sharpen a knife daily or every other day or heck even weekly, versus once every 6 months? Waste of time if you ask me.
@KingLibra The only way a knife will stay sharp for 6 months is if you barly use it.
It is honestly so refreshing to hear someone in the knife community not tell me that I need a knife made of adamantium or vibranium to open Amazon packages or slice an apple.
LMFAO
I heard Spyderco is coming out with a Shaman sprint in CPM-Uru. I'm waiting for that.
@@WheresWaldo05 stfu, ur literally named elden wolf lord and you think you’re in a position to tell them not to sound life a nerd.
@@WheresWaldo05 Your name sounds like a random jumble of words you carelessly strung together to make yourself feel like you have even an ounce of some kind of power.
@@WheresWaldo05 Do what? And, next time think about using a space between words.
A good question and one I've been asking myself (quietly) for awhile. I've certainly fallen down the knife "rabbit hole" and have seemingly more and more knives in "super steel" -- that make absolutely no difference in my use. I often wonder how many knife fans are like me -- find them intriguing, like to buy and watch reviews -- but my actual USE in a given week or month is mostly FIDGETING plus a few package opening and once in a great while breaking down a box or two. I remember when VG-10 was a "great steel" and "good to go" (older reviews), now it gets a sneer on new knives as in "eh, it's only got VG-10". I'm trying to remind myself on a regular basis that VG-10, 154 CM, 30V, 35V and even Nitro V are each enough to (more than) meet my needs.
Buy that man a beer
I'm about to buy my first "super steel" a maxamet pm2 as I've wanted a Spyderco for a while and figured why not try a super steel also. While I've been researching for months I've been successfully enjoyed the D2 boker Kalashnikov that I've EDC'd for almost a year without issue 😂. It's gone above and beyond and I honestly don't even need to sharpen it more than once every few months.
@@DavidDoingLifemaxamet for your first pm steel is a pretty bad idea. it’s not tough at all and when you eventually need to sharpen it you’ll want to die
A really relevant video for a “knife guy” or sillycology student. If I only had a Delica 4 and a Police 4 in S30V, I could do anything I ever need to do with a knife, yet I now have about 2 dozen Spydercos in various steels and can’t seem to part with any of em.
Aaaaaah, the life.
I love super steels but sometimes it’s also REALLY nice to have a steel like 440c because it’s so easy to sharpen. S30V is a good zone for me personally. It lasts plenty good and it’s pretty easy to sharpen. I have a manix lightweight in S110V. It’s a pain to sharpen
I couldn’t agree more, especially about the S30V. I have a mini griptilian in S30V with a sheep’s foot style blade and I love it. I use almost everyday and it’s been more than satisfactory.
*it
You need super abrasives to sharpen s110v. s110v isn't just a stainless 10v, it's a special blend that has Nb added in it, which is even harder than vanadium. Any steel that has more 3 or 4 % vanadium isn't going to sharpen properly on ceramic alumina beyond very course grits, or even green sic beyond say 1k grit, what you really need are diamonds or cbn. s110v is a great steel for a pocket knife. The key to that kind of stuff is to maintain it. Strop it on 5 um diamond powder on wood after you use it. It will stay sharp basically forever unless you chip it, or unless you let it get too dull between maintenance, in that case you'll need to actually grind a new edge which is a nightmare without super abrasives.
s30v is really great general use blade steel. All most folks would ever need. I prefer XHP. Imo that's the best one of the balanced all use stainless blade steels. Better than s30v, s35vn, magnacut, all that shit. I'm guessing it's better than s45 too. S90v is another sweet spot for a high resistance stainless steel. Vanadis steels are the shit. Laminated steels are great too. Get something like k390 and laiminate it with lc200n or aebl. Anything much beyond 10v class is too unbalanced in the direction of carbide replacements for a lot of uses.. 15v, maxamet, etc.
I'm especially liking the ease of sharpening of Magnacut!
I have an AKC that has 440c and it has stayed sharp impressively well. But I don't have anything better to compare it too.
Lc200n is my favorite steel. It's super easy to sharpen, holds an edge for a long time in my experience and completely stainless. There's something super nice about just cutting food or wet things and not worrying about cleaning the blade.
You cut food and don’t clean your blade before and after?
@@basedgodstrugglin sometimes can't get to a sink or something and got it let it sit for awhile until you get access
@@sixfootseven fair. I use mine for stuff, like boxes n that at work, couldn’t imagine putting it to any bit of food without a clean and I don’t want it sticky afterwards if fruit or carrying bacteria if uncooked meat lol
I guess like you mentioned, it really depends on how often you use your knife. For most follks, steels like 14C28N would be more than enough I suppose.
I think the difference between using a high retention knife to one that's not, is just a different way you would maintain them,
Ie butchers use soft knives that constantly need touching up with a steel, and are easy to sharpen.
I don't think there are any butchers that use super steels.
I know EDC knives are used differently but, even with 14c28n on a pocket knife, you can keep it constantly going by quick touch ups, even a quick strop on the palm of your hand does wonders.
So what I'm saying that even a knife guy who loves knives, doesn't need a super edge retention knife
This is almost like the Z Reviews of knives.
Just missing the waifus
I think the same thing everytime I watch one of these videos, glad im not the only insane person that has noticed it
I fell into this knife addiction trap buying these super steels like the Spyderco limited , exclusive and sprint runs that put me into debt . This is done on purpose by knife makers to keep buyers buying in a frenzy of addiction like a drug addict .Each month some new steel or handle variation comes out or sprint run or something else . I said no more ! , I do not need 5 Spyderco Manix 2 in different steels or handle colors . There is a mania over Spyderco and Great Eastern cutlery knives . I do not collect either of these anymore and I sold many and just kept a couple for my personal use. Actually I prefer the 1095 carbon steel of the Great Eastern cutlery over all the super steels, because they are very easy to sharpen which I like . Unless you are a collector and can afford to spend these big dollars , all you need is a traditional folding knife that is affordable and available for regular purchase. Like Great Eastern cutlery , Otter Messer , Mercator knives in basic carbon steels. These will do the job for most people they work for me with no complaints and are affordable user knives.
Mark, you aren't informing anyone here. We all know this. Most of us have just accepted it.
I'm fully aware that new steels are used as a marketing catalyst. I just don't care. Performance varies just enough that it makes it interesting. Buy the stuff you like and ignore the rest. Move on with life
Absolutely loved CPM M4 in the Benchmade Contigo until I had it clipped in my pocket doing yard work. Went to us it after an hour or so and the edge was rusted. Yes, I've got corrosive sweat but I was pretty surprised at just how quickly.
I want a vid on that tank-blasting flashlight. You can go over 15 minutes on that one.
The steel definitely makes a difference. But as long as you aren’t using trash soft steel, the differences are minor. That being said, Ive never been blown away by a steel until I got some Rex 45.
Honesty Rex 45 and Maxamet are the only steels where I've noticed a difference. I've been using my native 5 in Rex 45 for a few months now and it legit has not dulled or even started to form a patina or rust. I live Cali near the ocean and Rex 45 has just been insane.
Agreed. Rex45 is a true super steel. Simply amazing.
@@cookiechris116 I just order spyderco manix2 in rex 45.How do you guys sharpen it?
Great overview of steels. I am liking CPM 4v the most these days.
Thank you for this video- I have been trying to learn a lot about the steels that are available in today's market.
Been carrying a basic Swiss army knife my whole life and decided to look for something (nicer, fun-er, cool-er..) and have been enjoying all your videos. Really appreciate the down to earth review style you have. I feel like you have a buy big, buy basic are al treated the same here. It’s wild how there’s thousands of knives out there and only maybe a had full that seem appealing. Keep up the good work.
MC Dude - this comment has nothing to do with this specific video, but I'm TH-cam dumb and don't know how to contact you otherwise because I don't do the other social medias. I love your very educational and fun channel and I have some suggestions that I hope you will consider doing a video:
1) "Accessorizing a knife": specifically replacing the clip. Where do you find replacement clips, especially when changing over to a deep carry clip? Replacing bearings, etc. Is there an "aftermarket" knife parts supplier?
2) "All metal knives": Considering bearing cages, handles, washers,etc - Does anyone.make all metal knives? If so, please do a video on them?
3). "Converting an assisted flipper to a non-assisted flipper": Can it be done? Is it relatively easy to do? Can you show us how?
Thank you for your consideration sir.
My experience with m390 is that it's plenty tough for me. I've never had a problem with it. I'm also not a rancher or a construction worker, so it's great for me. But I've used my knives for the occasional prying or whatever, I don't shy away from pretty much anything. What makes me really happy is a knife that's RAZOR sharp, and I've found that m390 is easier for me to put a wicked edge on than any other steel. Yes, it will hold that edge for a good long time as well, but it's the wicked sharpness that I love. Blade geometry plays a role in that too, so in general I look for wide blades in m390.
I'm glad you like M390 and think it's tough enough for what you use it, but I want to note that toughness plays an underestimated role in edge retention.
The toughness of a steel isn't useful only when prying, it's about how shallow of an angle you can put on the edge before it starts chipping, because geometry is more important than hardness or wear resistance when it comes to edge retention. M390 chips rather easily so I wouldn't take it lower than 17 (at most) DPS. I for one prefer stropping a rolled edge as opposed to grinding away steel to fix a chip so give me toughness over wear resistance.
3V, V4E, M4, CruWear, PD1, Magnacut, 14C28N, LC200N, even 19C27, 52100, 80CrV2 are all good options for some crazy shallow edges, and the shallower the angle the longer it holds a working edge, which balances out the lower wear resistance / hardness.
gotta love beater knives though, works for most edc tasks and doesn't need babying because it's cheap and easy to fix up. That being said, I love my funky premium steels
Appreciate this video. I like s35vn and have no reason to chase the more"exotic" steels.
Being from the midwest as well I like M4 the most. I can do work with it all day and not have to worry about anything.
I would like to know your thoughts on k390. But you’re right for most people steel composition doesn’t matter. We also have to take in consideration the heat treatment and edge geometry. Even a common steel like 52100 can have great performance with the right h.t and geometry. Great video.
I have a PM2 in K390. It’s a high carbon, hi vanadium cold work tool steel. It’s an aggressive cutter when finished with a coarse edge. It’s fairly easy for me to sharpen it on my DMT coarse diamond stone..
When I'm showing off my spydie flick skills on a double thumb stud knife to my buddies at work I prefer cpm 20 CV. 😁🍻
and why so ?
@@andrewsteinberg7728 I believe it has to do with the dual piston optimized compression ratio, and the overhead cam lever suspension,also the heat flex rythmatic gyro effect seems to have a better overall balance with cpm 20 CV. Of course several polls were taken with this being the most obvious explanation in a group of cyber steel experts. ⚔️😁
I have a maxamet para 3. I never carry it because it is so nice. Instead I later bought a para 3 lightweight black and this has become my EDC.
I have maxamet native 5. I dipped the blade in boiling vinegar because it looked too boring for the amount of money I spent on it.
I have a maxamet para 3, and I carry and use it daily. When its dull, I send it to spyderco. Whats the point of super steel if you don't use the knife? Granted, I have a bench made mini bugout in s30v that I try to use more, but my para 3 still comes along.
Use that knife man lol…
I bought the Benchmade bugout 535 in M390 and making routine cuts, nothing exotic or difficult. It dulled faster than most gas station knives. Very disappointing. Just received my Manix 2 “Stormtrooper” from GP in Rex 45 and am absolutely blown away at how sharp it was when it arrived. Sharpest knife I’ve ever owned. For any self defense or workhorse tasks, I carry my Gerber 06 auto (tanto, partial serration) in S30V and it has excelled in everything it’s been put up against. But I feel like this Rex 45 is going to be my new favorite for a long time. (Maybe not when I need to sharpen it) but I digress. Amazing steel so far!
Love the video! I like how you take it down to “it really doesn’t matter that much” more or less at least above a certain minimum
I got a kershaw launch 11 with 20cv steel. It's pretty sweet. That edge goes right thru anything, stays hard, and remains sharp.
Yeah. Supersteels. I find myself wanting the latest, even though I know it doesn’t matter.
The knife I carry always (except on airplanes) is a Dragonfly 2 with K390. It definitely doesn’t need sharpening as often as VG-10, and it didn’t cost much extra - and I still have the VG-10 version as well. My most common larger knife uses S30V. Once it was a super steel, now it’s being downgraded as “basic”. But it works great.
I do have one knife with El Max. Sharp? Yes. Holds its edge well? Yes. But very expensive. So I seldom carry it.
I’m a week into this knife thing and picked up a para3 spy27. Had the Chinese knockoff and decided the style and size was nice for my edc. So my choices in my area was a para3 in BD1N, SPY27 & Maxamet. I’m in a humid jungle like area so I hope this metal will work out… thx for the info
im gonna get a para 3 lw bd1n steel and gonna learn how to become a beast of a sharpener so when i get better knives I’ll be able to maintain those as well
I bought a sprint run Kershaw Knockout in M390, which for me was expensive. I Carry it often. I figure what the heck, I can’t take it with me so why not? It’s a lot of knife for the weight and carries well in gym shorts. I use it for everything.
Heck yeah, I own the same knife and absolutely love it!!! They're slicy and just a damned great knife
Does a cartwheel, karate chops a watermelon in half! 🤣🤣😂 I would definitely watch!
Spyderco makes you think so! Have a good one!
This is my 2cents. The least of my worry’s is my blade being stainless. I want something that is tough holds a great edge and sharpens nice. If it’s a mother to sharpen I don’t want no part of it s30v s35vn is def the best all around steel in my eyes. Well rounded that’s a super steel. I think the spy 27 is going to be great also.
Both of those are stainless though lol. I feel like you would appreciate k390
All my higher end knives used to be S30V/S35V-- a lot of Spydercos and even my Chris Reeve large Sebenza was S35V. Lately i've been kind of a steel snob!!-- Bought a S110V Para2 to add to my S35VN "standard" PM2-- but I also been buying a lot of "higher end" steel knives lately with blades in M390, C204P, and Elmax-- my last 10 knives I bought past month were all those steels. I now have over 75 knives with all sorts of steels. But my S35v Para2 cuts just as well as my S110V Para2-- but maybe will have to sharpen it a bit more!!. Great presentation .
I go for heat treatment quality and blade/edge geometry, steel is the last thing I would look for. That being said, a good quality steel, made properly, shows it's higher quality from how better it cuts and how longer the edge lasts which is good for folders mainly.
The search for super steel ends when a knife maker makes a pocket lightsaber
I’d “settle” for a full size lightsaber
Within the 35 years i use and carry a pocket knife for multiple tasks ,a simple Victorinox serves me right. Easy sharpening no rusting issues and makes it through the day cutting things all the time. 😉
thats the thing. The kiddies who obsess over edge retention literally don't know how to sharpen and they're afraid to try.
I somewhat obsess over edge retention and absolutely know how to sharpen. Let's not "black and white" this for the sake of self reaffirmation. You can like what you like without simplifying the preferences of other people. That's a small brain move.
@@metal_complex that comment was written 1 year ago. Trying different knives i have different opinion now , so ignore the old comment as my personal opinion 😂
Im afraid to learn to sharpen haha. Still clueless as what to buy in that regard. Luckily i dont have to worry abut that right now as i spent my spending money on a new knife instead..im smrt
I have many different steels and one that works well for me is the old D2. I take care of my knives so corrosion is not a problem for me. I have S35VN, M390 and S20CV blades. Also another favorite is 154 CM. One of my favorite knives has a 440C blade. the edge retention is not very good. Other than the 440C, most users will have no problems with 154CM.
yeah, one of the qualities that makes 12c27/13c26/14c28n/nitro-v economical is that they are easy to cut into blanks.
I like the stainless options just bc I can use it more without worrying about what I’m cutting as much. I have v3and m4 that have accumulated rust is a display case (in Texas not near the coast). I’m more careful now.
I’m glad you made this video. Too many people follow reviewers’ opinions as gospel and think they understand what the “best steel” based solely on the edge retention metric and hype. Your point that there is a spectrum of excellent steels for different purposes is a key consideration that more people should be aware of. I’m a semi-professional knife maker, a bit more than a hobby, and this drives me crazy.
Rex 45 is totally sweet. S110v is absolutely insane, I cut a queen memory foam mattress into small pieces, an hours worth of work and cutting, thing still cuts paper.
Edge retention is great until you chip something. Imo toughness shouldn't be overlooked. In the kitchen I feel like a 61 Rockwell 52100 steel is substantially more tolerant than a Damascus/vg10 at the same hardness and similar shape.
My first ever chipped knife in the kitchen is a vg 10.
What’s wild is liking folding knives AND kitchen knives. Some steels are great for both, some are great for one and not the other. Some are great for some kitchen knives and not for other kitchen knives. Heat treating and hardness levels can be way different. And you talk about blade geometry being important to folders…. It’s 10x more important in kitchen knives, especially for something you’re using for hours a day.
So far I've also had good luck with S30V and across brands as well. I also have had good luck with D2
I will never go any more “super” than S30V. It has reasonably good edge retention, is reasonably priced, and is reasonably easy to sharpen. It’s exactly what fits my need for a daily carrier that I do everything from open boxes to beaver-chewing small limbs in the back yard. I like it a lot.
Depends what decade your knife is from lol, supersteels get "De-ranked" when better ones come out. in 2030 REX-45 might be considered a budget steel, because everybody is now using diamond fused tungsten carbide steel REX-97 with a HRC of 85.
ATS-34 was "The Super Steel" in it's day like you said with 154CM that was a super steel.
440C and AUS8 were super steels as well. Now they are "Budget Steel" lol funny how a steel can go from "Super" to "Budget" isn't it.
Overall favourite working construction (Building and maintaining communication towers), I'd say CPM CruWear. CTS-204P is also excellent, as is Maxamet, didn't have a good experience with HAP-40, have tried dozens...and I do agree blade geometry plays a bigger role under most circumstances. CruWear is overall my favourite though.
Thinking about picking up a CruWear PM2. I currently have the S45VN version which is great... But after carrying the PM2 I've just come to understand how phenomenal the knife is, and I'd like to upgrade the steel just a bit. I'd like something with a bit more toughness for my use. From what I've read, CruWear is a solid steel in every category. A great all-arounder for EDC use. Also, it's not super expensive. Can't wait to get my hands on it.
@@MFRiley
I'm thinking about getting the same knife myself.
@@MFRiley Did the same. S45vn and now going for maxamet. Got police 4 in vg10 and pacific salt 2 in lc200n (bigger one).
If you are questioning whether you need to buy a supersteel then, yes you should.
If you need to open mail, then no you shouldn't.
If you collect knives, yes you should.
Ideed none of these steels are dream steels. Although, they have improved from the last steel dramatically. Love my m390, s35vn and even D2. IMO, the companies and custom makers out there need to catch us knife enthusiasts attention to want, need, gotta have, impulse buy now now now. Haha we all have our own perfect blade, but there is always need for change or we would all possibly get bored and go to something new to satisfy that got to have moment. Idk I just have an addiction to "that next best thing" that comes out. I'm just glad we have some knives that are better than the last so we can keep that itch alive. I looove my knives🤜💯🤛awsome vid and points u make. Keep on keepn on brotha 🍻
Vanax is the 2nd best knife steel there is. 2nd only to magna cut.
Really good video. I'm new to collecting knives, but have collected old Japanese swords for some time, I like steel blades. I think for most people now that are carrying knives it comes down to stupid man brain. Your car analogy was spot on. We live in a materialistic world where people have to go on social media and flex that they have the best X, Y and Z. That said I think S35VN is probably the best steel, well balanced.
20cv and spy27 is my only experience with super steels. 20cv is my favorite knife steel so far. I do want to get a kershaw in magnacut and a spyderco in k390. Right now im rocking the manix 2 lw in spy27 but really want to get the launch 7 in magnacut.
Heat treat and edge geometry are the most important factor for a user knife imho. Bob Dozier was pretty much the only maker who worked with D2 for years. He figured out the best heat treat for it. Now its everywhere. I'm all for innovation that's what keeps the knife market going.
I had a "super steel" D2 knife. I have learnt that it is difficult to form an edge. As they say, D2 wont take an edge but it will hold it forever. I have now bought a Buck mini Selkirk with Chinese 420HCI steel. I don't know what its edge retention is but at least I can sharpen it to a razor finish. My kind of steel.
d2 isn’t really a super steel, and d2 isn’t hard to sharpen at all really. you should just practice your sharpening skills and invest in diamond stones so it doesn’t take five hours to sharpen d2
I have a theory why some people prioritize edge retention over other aspects of the steel, because a lot of people are either *A)* Lazy and dont want to be bothered with sharpening, or *B)* Don't know how to use or don't have access to stones (Or apparetly Amazon+Google+YT lol....AND dont realize they COULD just have someplace like Cabela's (or manufacturer) sharpen it, usually for free lol)
I respect the edge rex 45 takes.
I just purchased the Manix 2 in S110V and Maxamet. My instincts are telling me to go with CPM-S110V and return the Maxamet.
I love mine in 110
Its not hard to sharpen and holds an edge very well
Good enough for me
Hey from Alaska.. I just subscribed =). What model is that benchmade fourth from the left, with a black blade and black and gray scales ? I can’t stop drooling over that beautiful thIng.. I need that exact knife immediately ! my very life depends on it !! It doesn’t of course, but I love the look of it so much it almost feels that way lol. But damn that is a gorgeous knife. I have the Crooked River and Saddle Mountain Skinner.
I’m trying to correct the tanto tip profile of of my Combat Elite, with my Lansky red stone. They went a little slack in the angle on a small portion, and it’s bugged me for years. Maybe that’s why it was cheaper than normal. Anyway, it’s S30V. It’s hard AF to get material removed, and make progress. It’s not that much that needs to be removed, but the coated blade really makes it show the imperfection. S30V must be a super steel, because if this was 154CM, I would have been done by now.
we can all talk ourselves into the top dog shit, but hardly any of us actually NEED it lol...
i think for non folders anyway, cpm 3v, is great, maxament is considered needing very little sharpenig and it is true but u need right sharpening stone and way expensive for a less then 3 inch spyderco
I only check if it was good after the purchase. Who’s with me!?!?!
Buy the one you can afford!
OR purchase on credit and pay them off over lifetime!!!
I LOVE KNIVES!!!!!!!!!!
I like s30v...has a raspy tooth to it..20cv is good too..still trying out maxamet..so far wow
I agree… finish both of those steels with a coarse diamond stone then strop lightly!! If you like 20cv.. try s90v and K390
It’s hard for me to choose a favorite super steel. I’ve used S30V the longest, 204P (M390) is amazing at everything and S90V held an edge for a loooong time.
Love M390, S30V, S35VN, etc..... Hell, I still have a few D2 knives I completely love! The steel is what it is. If you love the knife, IMO the manufacturer is more important than the steel.
Currently got a Spyderco Urban in CPM S90v in my pocket. Was a bit of a bitch to sharpen and is brand new to me. But I'm also dead happy with a victorinox SAK.
At the end of the day, the best knife in the world is the one you have in your pocket.
I don't like sharpening often. So I am about to purchase a Spyderco Maximet. Then probably another, and perhaps another in a different steel. Gotta try them all, right?
I legitimately have not noticed a difference between S30V and S110V in actual use.. none of them have the edge stability where I'd notice the steel difference and its not just sheering that initial crispy edge.. I strop after every single use anyway which knocks that off
Interesting topic of flashlights. I've owned and carried a TON of flashlights and what I've found after owning and drinking the Kool aid of the brightest or best candela or lux and throw and yada yada yada, the feature that is the best and most important to me is durability. I use knives and lights and guns hard (not so much guns let's be honest I work in the shipping warehouse if a factory) I've tried and carried Fenix (my gateway drug) thanks to TNP waaaaay back in the day with the TK22 when it had a whopping 650 lumens!!! To streamlights thrunites nitecore (carried a MH25GT for years which is a pocketable albeit very large light with a throw of 452 M.) To foursevens all the way to surefire. I've landed on and settled down with the lesser known but much higher quality and more durable elzetta. I've carried an elzetta Charlie for four years straight now and it remains to be my "backup hammer" with not so much as a flicker. Sorry this was so long winded, I just had to be part of the conversation. Great content as always, and much appreciated because there was a time I bought my first Kershaw from Walmart and knew nothing of steels, lubrication torx sizes centering and proper edge geometry. I would've eaten this informative and entertaining content up. 🤩
Desperately trying to justify my third Manix 2, this time in Maxamet. While I tend to baby my nicer knives, I don't have any safe queens... But I have a feeling ill baby the hell out of that thing to the point where it was a worthless purchase 😅
A Maxamet Manix 2 is my EDC. I find it's a terrible idea to cut zip ties, which can put lateral strain on the blade edge, leading to some very small chips in mine, but I've sent it out to be sharpened, and I'd say it's back to being about factory.
Why you may want it: I can fly through cardboard boxes with this knife in much the same way I might expect a good knife will cut through a piece of paper. I'm sure there are numerous other things this knife can cut very well. I can lay paper down and cut something out quicker than I could with a pair of scissors using the point of this knife. It's also nice to wave it with a zip tie through the hole.
I'm still torn between maxamet and cruwear
I definitely have too many 20cv blades. I wish RHK would put out some new knives in s35vn like back in the day. I miss my gen 4 even if it didn't flip for sh*t without a wrist flick. I need to be on the hunt for a tri-way s35vn.
Are we related?:)…..as I’m looking at this pile of para 2’s in 20cv…geez
I’ve been having good luck with Kai USA 20cv
It's good stuff
Of course the one thing you didn't mention or go into and that is how the steel is tempered is probably the most important aspect of any Steel regardless of whether it's super steel or not. If the steel is the heart of the knife, The Temper is the soul of the knife.
Yes I did lol. Right at the beginning of the video. "Heat treatment" - 1:38.
I love SPY27, corrosion resistance is important to me.
Sometimes you don't have a choice. If you like a certain knife, your emotions buy the knife, not what's always logical. I think I'll wait for a Sebenza in s45vn and Hinderer XM-18 Gen 7. LOL Actually, I don't care what the steel is as long as it will cut through flesh and bone.
Buy what you like, but realize that super steels aren’t magic.
My favorite steels?
14C28N because it’s cheap, holds an edge decently well, is very tough, and doesn’t rust readily.
H2, because it’s tough, and here in the PNW, a mile from shore…it does not rust.
I just wanted to give a shout out to Sandvik 14c28n. Don’t let all these new trendy super steels overshadow the classics! Although I have a penchant for Elmax as well.
154cm, D2, s30v, and one you didn't mention, cts-xhp. They're great Steels. I got a CRK Inkosinot long ago with s45vn, so far its fantastic. I have 20CV, m390 and rex45 but that's really unnecessary, Most of the super Steels are. Underrated-Buck heat treats 420hc so well and it's so easy to sharpen. I had a 110 that took and held a fantastic edge, I'd get another with a pocket clip.
None of those in the first sentence are super steels.
@@WheresWaldo05 you're right. At one point they were I guess. They are great, capable Steels.
5:22 you make me laugh after all this time. I'm going to try to keep this under 15 minutes!
1. Magnacut
2. Vanax
3. Cpm3v Delta
4. Elmax
5. M390
6. S110v
7. Vanadis 4e
8. S90v
9. Cpm4v
10. S35vn
I like a quality heat treat 👌
Heat treat and edge geometry are the most important factor 🤌🏻🤌🏻
In other words, buy a Ganzo (or Opinel, or whatever). When it gets dull, throw it away and buy another. No need to learn how to strop or sharpen.
LOL. In which Circle of Hell would "shaving toilet paper" be an occupation, and please append "teeter totter" with "see saw" for those of us who insist on "soda" instead of "pop".
No... buy a supersteel if you need it, OR if you want it. Learn to sharpen if you want to, or don't. The point of this video was to explain that super steels don't end up meaning all that much when it comes to common edc tasks, (which is what 80% of us will use them for) but that doesn't mean we can't enjoy them anyway.
Time to invent the star wars folding lightknife. The ultimate civilized gentleman amazon box opener.
dont need ,it prizely, will be seldom use, just for collection, hard to sharpen.. that just for self satisfaction. just enough steel like 440c etc & that more useful
Great vid, and for the record... I would gladly pay for a Socom Elite in 4v, and a whole lot of other knives.
Maxamet was being used in the ultratechs for a little while but they switch to m390 I believe.
S35vn is king IMO
I do cut cardboard alot,i have s30v,15v,magnacut,cruwear, what steel would be better for cardboard cutting? Like watermelon bins from walmart type cardboard
Magnacut and cru wear
I see a lot of knife guys mentioning that 14C28N is a great budget steel (it is a very good steel that I enjoy), but when I look at the chart on Knife Steel Nerds, 440C actually ranks above it in edge retention if it is hardened properly to the correct final HRC. I don't get why people dump on 440C when it is such a great budget steel that is incredibly easy to maintain. Why doesn't 440C get the respect that 14C28N gets?
Heat treatment is not pushed to high hardness.
Steel for me is less important on a folder than a fixed blade. A fixed blade used in the backwoods for bushcraft or hunting will need to have edge retention as well as corrosion resistance since it maybe days or weeks away from your sharpening equipment. For folder to me LOCK is the most important because I value my fingers. As a basic edc its important, for a combat or martial folder its paramount. '
Companies like Spyderco and Cold Steel has their heat treat (regardless of steel) down to an art so sharpening is always a joy.
My sound advice is you may not need a super custom knife, with Adamantium blade, but stick to legit knife companies (not knives made by companies with their name or logo affixed built 3rd party) and definitely not garbage knives if you value your fingers and most of the time today's knives will serve you well.
Yes. Rex45 is on top!
Im hoping to be able to get a PM2 in Maxamet, thanks for making this vid mate
I've got the Gayle Bradley Spyderco fixed blade
Love Spyderco, I use to have the Para 3 Maxamet but sold it due to its chipping after a few uses. I own the Spyderco, SPY 27 Para 3 lightweight now. I like it much better.
To answer the question posed by the video: if you watched the video to the end, YES YOU SHOULD!
I have a delica 4 and a maxamet para 3 but I always bring the delica with me to the warehouse because I don't want to "hurt" my better knife XDD
I think we should all buy all the knives. All the time.
my grandad had a western brand bone scaled folder, carbon steel maybe 1095 ,had it for many decades never went dull used in basic cutting chores, i think this steel war is a fad, i also think s30v is just fine for stainless super steel, . as for a 3 inch maxamet par mil, yes i admit, had to have it, but i did not really need it, got to kick the habit,
100% he barely used it if it "never went dull". And that's a fact. Not an opinion.