Basic guide to Bodywork, block sanding, priming, and primers in the restoration world! PART2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I pick up where I left off form taking a restoration form the finished metal work to the paint stage. I start off with a quick recap on how we got the the polyester primer stage. The I start the blocking process of the high build Evercoat Slick sand and go over tips and tricks to make sure you are getting some good results out of all your work. I show how to touch up spots that the blocking miss, fine tune body lines and gaps, then go over the process of adding epoxy over some bare metal high spots and adding a 2K primer to the car. Hopefully this video on the 71 Barracuda covers some of your bodywork questions and concerns in the restoration world and helps you really fine tune your bodywork in.
#restoration #paintprep #bodywork #filler #bondo #sanding #showcar #musclecar #classiccars
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carthage-class...
I forgot to mention dedication. That’s inspiring most of all.
thank you!
best lesson ever seen
Thank you very much
Great videos. Can't wait to see the challenger vid cause thats what im trying to do to a 68 coronet,just a nice driver.
Thanks you, I hopefully will have it out soon.
Perfect Explanation Thank You!
You are welcome!
Excellent wants again. Looks like a car model body removed from the box. What’s the cost of the Omni epoxy primer? That stuff about doubled,crazy!
Thanks a lot and yes the omni epoxy has really gone up in price with everything. Don't quote me but i believe for the gallon it was around $230 with the activator. Hard to tell because when I am at the paint supply store I buy multiple things all at once so I am almost never leaving there under $500.
Great vid mate
Thanks a lot!
Great instruction. Great presentation. Incredible execution and attention to detail is what makes this a great channel. Watching a skilled individual is inspiring to me.
Thank you very much appreciate the support
Amazing video man crazy helpful! Do you have filler between the door and quarter to hold the door in place?
Yes I do but if you go back to the video I have a gapping this 71 Cuda there is also body shims on hard rubber to hold the door out and not move that way also.
This could be one of the most informative videos I have ever seen on youtube. I can understand how paint jobs can cost upwards from $15K. The body shops I worked in were hacks compared to what you are doing. You explain things extremely well. Thanks for all the time you and your wife put into these videos. It really shows.
Thank you very much for watching and the really kind words, it does mean a lot. I do try and really put as much as I can into the videos for them to really help out and are easy to watch without losing too much interest as this stuff can be boring at times.
What he said. Now hurry up and drop another video. No pressure 👍🏾
@@vincentgordon227haha working on it, winter slows down the body work process as we need better weather to paint.
By far the best teacher in this subject on the internet. Detailed and very articulate. This channel is really making my project run was smoother. Thanks.
Great to hear you are welcome!
Brilliant. Clear concise explanation. Excellent quality of work and very informative. Thank you for providing this content. Very enjoyable.
Thank you very much, glad it was enjoyable!
Nice blocks 😎
The best bocks!!! Great product I highly recommend them to anyone I talk too.
Hi Rick, excellent work! What are you using to clean off/wipe down the car after the filler work before spraying the sealer coat?
Thank you first I will use just a little bit wax and grease remover, but very lightly as you do not want it soaking in the filler or primers. Then I will use Sprayway glass non amonia cleaner before a tack cloth
Hi Rick, I have to say this is the best TH-cam channel I have come across in quite some time! I have caught up on all your videos to date now. I appreciate the effort you have put in to them. I have an '82 Ford Cortina (Ford UK/Europe car you guys didn't get in the states) I am slowly trying to restore. I had already bought a rotisserie, and it soon will be on it to clean all the underseal and 40+ years of grime off the underside, to see what I have left to work with. But thanks to watching your videos, I am going to have a go at making a chassis jig before I start drilling out spot welds to repair or replace metalwork. Thanks, I look forward to your next video. (I have also shared your channel with a few of my like minded friends) ;)
Thank you so much for the comment and the support I also appreciate it. That is really good to hear they will be able to help you out. When you get involved in your project and have any questions feel free to ask and i'll see if i have an answer or we can help you find one.
love this master class!!
Thank you!
Wow! A very informative video Rick.
I am working on a 1969 VW beetle. No flat panels anywhere. What blocks do I need to be using on the curves after I skim coat it with filler?
Thanks!
I think your best bet is the soft sander I was showing with flex both directions. The durablock has that sanding sponge and a flexible 1 inch by a foot long block also. Believe it or not also try a paint mixing stick with sand paper on one side. You are just trying to find something to match the consistent curve of your car.
Awesome content. I’ve learned a ton from you. Thanks Rick. Subscribed!
That's really great to hear thanks for the feedback, subscription and watching!
Instead of the dolphin filler, couldnt you thin your regular bondo with fiberglass resin? Or, is dolphin filler some kinda wonderful improvement?love your knowledge
Thank a lot. So I think the dolphin glaze along with any other glazing putty is used for it highly smooth finish and lack of pinholes. Even the best fillers especially anything fiberglass gets pin holes in it. The resin in fiberglass helps but still I think a glazing putty for finishing work is the go too product. There is no need to try and reinvent the wheel here.
dont see a video after this one, did ya finish it ? I follow same process and just bought liniar blocks. curious how it turned out. I'm still blocking my 70 charger
It hasn't been put out yet got to cold to paint here so waiting for the warm weather, hopefully soon
Great video.. keep it up.
Thanks will do!
Excellent instruction. Thanks, can't wait till the next car with the driver quality paint job.
You're welcome and yes I think the "driver" style paint and body might be very appealing to most
Thanks for the in depth video, i can see why a great paint job cost so much. There is So Much that go's in it.
You are welcome and yes I agree there is so much to it. Also to note the ones usually quoting the cheap jobs are skipping or cutting corners on a lot of this stuff.
Amazing knowledge and communication! If there’s better, I haven’t seen it!
Thank you very much I really appreciate the compliment.
Best instructional videos I have ever seen. Thank you brother. God bless you and your family..
Thank you very much I appreciate the feedback, god bless you and your family also!
I rather put material in the entire piece and work it up in one shot insted of going back and forward in the patch procces , my opinion
There are many different ways to accomplish the same thing. That would work and it's a personal preference. Thanks for watching and the feedback.
Hey Rick, sorry I missed the live stream but caught the video. Great work, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for watching glad you liked it!
Man you are blowing my mind I done body work for some odd years me and Uncle Dean had a shop and we did nothing like you're doing I mean material alone it's got to cost a buck keep up the good work I hope I can find you and and finish this car I'd like to see it finished
Thanks a lot, hopefully soon it will be done.
I would love to be your apprentice! I think you would really like me and my work etiquette!
Who knows we might be able to work something out if you were around my area
So you do your wet sanding after your dine the paint. Before painting process.
I will show in part 3 but I like to wet sand before I paint and after depending on the finish
When you use the black powder and you see small indents do you sand all the way down or add putty to fill the holes?
Good question, take some sand paper in your hand finish sanding that area of guide coat off to get the needed filler a tooth, clean before reapplying.
When will pt 3 be out? Live these videos. Great help to me. Thank you.
I am waiting for the warmer weather here so hopefully another 2 months max part 3 will be out
Great video. Using this to prep my cobra replica. Interesting to see you use a lot of glaze after the spray on poly layer. I always thought you had to respray, but that looses a lot of time as it really needs a week to allow for shrink back.
Yes my opinion is spray filler or applying filler out of the packet with glazing its accomplishing the same task. I will say if the car panels get that bad I will respray the whole area but like you pointed out its time that it then needs to be set aside.
Excellent video- just found the channel i got some catching up to do.
Thanks a lot I am trying to put out some more and new body stuff so stay tuned.
Who stood there with a camera the entire time watching you do this? They are a champ.
All the camera work is done by my wife Meagan, yes she is the best and supports this so much. I am very lucky and the videos come out so much better because of her.
Excellent video thanks so much..
You're welcome
Very informative video.
Thank you very much!
Are you doing a further episode on this? Are there any updates? I want to see the paint lol
I am messing with the car now and will provide an update soon.
Excellent video, Rick! How are you removing the filler holding the doors closed?
I went in there with a small cut off wheel slowly and carefully sliced it open then sanded it out what was left.
Thank you, I appreciate the response
Don’t you lightly hammer the high spots down?
Yes if they are that high you can tap them more in the direction you want the metal to go. Personally I am not a huge fan of the cave and pave method. If I have a high enough spot I will pull out the metal heat shrinking disc and shrink it down that way.
Lions are playing the Packers right now. Catch you at halftime.
Haha thanks I need to work on my timing better!
Excellent tutorial.
Thank you!
You do awesome, quality work.
Thank you!
When are you going to show part 3?Thanks!
I will put out an update on this car soon
I've started using a primer in the Sherwin Williams line that is a DTM it builds will nice with 4 coats and can also be used as a sealer
interesting thanks for sharing
@@carthageclassiccars it's in there sunfire pro line white,grey,black I think SU521,SU522,SU523 you can also spray with 1.3-1.5 tip I have people tell me that won't work I've done it first hand Sherwin Williams set up for 1.0-1.5 tip
What do you do after this process? I’m new to it all and gonna tackle this at home. Is it straight to paint after this?
If so, do you have a video on what to do after this video like what paint and guns to use etc.
Thanks and great information mate
You are going to work down with 320 then i do 600 wet. I should have a video out explaining the entire process really soon as I got two cars to bodywork and paint I plan on doing some filming and explaining.
@@carthageclassiccars Thanks, I’ll stick around for that, the effort that you put into your work is really appreciated man
Super helpful, great followup to part 1. Keep up the great work, hope to see the last part soon. I'm restoring the identical car, 71 Cuda. Thanks!
They are such beautiful cars, good luck on your build and thanks a lot!
Fantastic! Thank you.
Your welcome thanks for the feedback!
I’ve seen a lot of body videos…..This is one of the best series I’ve ever seen. Incredible job and awesome videos! I’m telling everyone I know about this channel and the hard work this man puts into these videos. Keep it up!
This channel will grow with patience. Don’t give up and thank you for all your knowledge!
Thank you so much for letting others know and the comment. I really do appreciate the support and feedback!
Is there a part 3 to this? Love watching these videos!
Part 3 isn't filmed yet but there will be.
Beautiful series…I really can’t thank you enough for all this valuable knowledge…I do have a couple questions…could you pdr a whole car and just do 3 stages of high build and blocking to get a oem plus result or do I need to use filler…also do you prime in the door jams or just shooting base over the epoxy…would it be best to unmount the doors after the last block to ensure the base gets everywhere and spray the doors off the car(ik it’ll be a pain on realignment)
Your welcome thanks for the feedback. So PDR I would say would be your best bet to get everything really close. You can do the high build but there is a limit on how much you can build. I try never to go through more then 4 coats then block. The main reason I use filler is that the filler is actually a lot cheaper then the slicksand. I will prime the door jams and the entire car following more of the process you asked about in the next video in this series so stay tuned.
@@carthageclassiccars awesome I appreciate the fast response…will be looking out for the next video👍🏼
You’re a great instructor. I’ve really learned a lot in these bodywork videos, even though I’ve watched dozens of other videos on the same topic before this. I’m excited to start this process on my truck!
Thank you very much. I really appreciate the feedback and good luck on your build!
One of the best tutorials I have seen. Thanks for sharing the details of your thought process as you make decisions... what would you do differently on a c3 corvette?
Thank you very much. I only have dug into the fiberglass a little bit so would have to do a little thinking before I started. I would try and get the old base color off the car or really scuffed down so it doesn't peel off after new paint. I would then add kitty hair filler fiberglass long straind. Then I would keep doing body work and pick up the epoxy stage from there following a similar process.
@carthageclassiccars thanks.. I got all the old paint off down to smc and am working up from there. Fiberglass mat and resin on cracks.. Duraglass Filler, evercoat body filler and plasik honey mixed into glaze for gouges etc.. 2k - High Build urethane 20 series upol next..
@@DiscoGreen Sounds like you have it all covered good luck!
@carthageclassiccars I doubt it. Lol.. I'm getting better this is the 3rd time I've painted it. I got hit and run on the first paint job then I did dbc500 with yellow pigment to brighten up the green but made it almosy impossible to match when I git a scratch or a ding then a wrecker cracked the fender.
Another great video!
Thank you very much!
By far the most helpful videos I've watched on TH-cam. And your humble. Thx man
I really do appreciate the feedback and you watching.
This is a perfect example of taking your time for the foundation. The paint will go on like butter. I am going to be painting my chevelle black so I know I am going to have to take the quality time before shooting. Love the videos looking forward to see more!
Thanks a lot, good luck on your Chevelle keep me updated on how it goes. Your right with black you really need to pay attention to every detail.
Great Video, when is Part 3?
I will post an update very soon I know its been a while as a low priority in the shop but still in here
Thanks, I’m doing a mustang now and you covered all my questions.
That's really great to hear you are welcome. Good luck on your Mustang build.
@@carthageclassiccars it’s my race car I’ve owned for 40 years. It doesn’t have to be perfect but thanks to you it’s turning out much better than expected. Oh by the way, it’s a Boss 429.
I think this is my new favorite channel! Giving me the motivation to do some bodywork on my 79 D100.
Thanks a lot and a very cool truck, good luck with the bodywork!
I can’t wait to see part 3
Thanks working on it I should put something out on this car really soon
Thank you for the in depth explanation of the entire process. I learned ALOT
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
I see many saying that they have to get bare metal in primer to prevent rust that occurs rapidly. I've had my 37's firewall and floor pans in bare metal for 6 months and not a spot of rust. We live in a semi arid area in the mountains.
Yes I have seen that and have some factory sheet metal bough that won't rust or rusts a lot slower. Usually if you don't mess with the metal and open it up with sanding it will resist corrosion longer. Once I sand metal in my shop this time of year with 60% + humidity I have 4 days a week may before it shows signs of rust forming so I usually have to do something quick.
Awesome video I must say, where or is there a part 3?
I will put an update out soon
@@carthageclassiccars thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us. This is excellent for those that are up-and-coming in this field. Blessings on you and your shop and keep up the good work.
I have my car in epoxy assembled-aligned, but its cruiser project so my expectations for paint is in the middle. What steps can I skip in my case? Scuff, Filler, block, epoxy+2k hi build primer, block, base, clear? Keep going with your content!
I wouldn't cover the whole car in filler first. I would block the epoxy, find your high spots and just fill them. After that most of the process is the same except don't worry about panel to panel but mostly working one panel at a time.
Always perfection, no other way to do it. Really hope you can go thru this on my challenger while you have it for sheet metal. Such a great jobs as always Rick!
Thank you very much!
Best tutorial on this topic anywhere
Thank you very much!
can't understand why so many prime when filler work is poor , clearly in this vid there were highs everywhere.
filler work should be at 95 % min before prime and the 5% can be blocked and refined through primer , therefore no need to prime again and less product saving money and time. FACT
to much product is a bad thing .
Too much of a product is a bad thing, so I think I go through the explanation in this video or at least in the last video where I sand down most of my filler to know its not layed out too much and reshaping the car. There are too many guys that pack on the filler and keep adding. Then when they are done there is a 1/2 inch of filler in places . Priming poly or high build is a fresh clean slate to go over the whole car again to address any issues and see what you come up with. Is it a waste a little bit, YES but this is restoration work we are putting more money into a car that is 50 years old and more expensive then a newer car so not super worried about waste over quality.
For someone who isn't doing a show car, but still want good results, would you suggest these steps: 1.) Wash 2.) Sand 180 grit 3.) Spray epoxy over the bare metal and where the body filler is going to go 4.) Body filler, sand, guide coat. 5.) Spray a 2k urethane 6.) block sand (not sure how high of a grit to go to?) 7.) base 8.) clear OR would you spray 2k primer again after blocking before you get to your base?
That is an over simplified version of it. I would still depending on the car add the slick sand and work your way down through the gits. The main difference between a show car in this sense is the panel to panel so I would work one panel at a time by itself.
Great work and video brother!
Thank you very much!
Have you ever tried high build VP 2050 epoxy primer? Why did you choose the Slick Sand? I heard slick sand is porous? Would that be a problem long standing projects to absorb moisture and oils? Did you degrease before applying the spot repair epoxy? Thanks for really trying to provide details.
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I have not tried VP2050 and honestly I don't have a good reason why vs slicksand is what everyone I know also uses and has worked for me. I am worried about an all in one product not being as good at repelling moisture on the bare metal. Two products in my head should work better as they are both designed for something specific not an all in one. Like shampoo being seperate from conditioned vs a 2 in one. Slick sand is porous for sure so YES long term oils would be a problem. That is why I use gloves at all times when sanding. Saying that if I know it will sit for a while I will for sure seal with an epoxy.
So many details, so little ' filler '
great video , lots of tips and tricks to keep you up to date and out of trouble.
Very High Quality work.
Love the attention to ' tools that work ' , no extra ads or promos.
Excellent presentation and explanation as to why things are being done !
Thank you very much. That is exactly what I was trying to accomplish with my message here.
I now understand why a quality paint job costs $479,000.00 dollars
haha thanks for the feedback you are right there is a big difference between a high quality job and some others.
Good job! I like the way you explain things.
Thank you very much
Amazing video and very informational. When is part 3 coming out?
Thanks a lot, I have so much going on in the day to day shop activities but I am slowly working on it, I will put it out as soon as I can
Thanks! I learn so much from your channel. Thank you. Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas, you are welcome and Thank you so much for the support it is really appreciated!
When part 3 drops? Can't wait 😅
Thanks working on it now
I like these videos, seeing Jovenes do their work in the old American school, I have a lot of respect for their work, excellent work. You remind me of old school excellence.
Thank you very much I appreciate you watching and commenting!
How thick is the spacers you made for the door to take up the space that the door ruber
I don't remember the measurement Honestly I got them lined up with the quarter panels. If you are really concerned best thing to do is buy an extra set of door rubber.
Great video. I always learn something new watching you.
Thank you very happy to hear that.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking the time so that we can learn something.❤
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
Great video, awesome instruction and easy to follow! Great work!!!
Thank you very much!
Your video has been the best I've see. The only thing is do you think you could put down all the products used also where you purchased? That would really help.
I wish I could send you somewhere online, but I buy them local from a PPG dealer in Fayetteville NC called Single Source. I recommend you look in your area for a paint representative as they should know a product brand in their line that should be similar to what I used here. Also thank you for the compliment.
Thank you for the speedy reply. This is my first time even working on a car and watching your video has been so helpful. You are very detailed. So thank you again.@@carthageclassiccars
What are all of the tape squares on the undercarriage for?
They are there to cover the holes from getting dust in them. Just easier to clear out the car come paint time.
Wonderful information and instruction you definitely helped me through my build.....thanks again for your time and content..... top notch stuff...👍
You are very welcome that is really great to hear!
Just doing touch ups but now I know there is a lot more to even that than I would have figured out on my own. Very cool to see all the techniques and order of steps needed.
Good luck on your build and thanks for watching!
Rick, which DA sander do you use?
Honestly its just a cheap Amazon 5 inch palm DA sander.
Will you guys be painting this Cuda?
Yes we are going to paint this one and do the assembly also. Everything but build the engine on this one. I will see if I can get a video on how we paint it when the time comes.
So cool to see you're still working on the Cuda
Yes I am hoping to get it done and on the road soon
I recently picked up a 79 Camaro as a project because I grew up driving in my dads. Super thankful for your info and in depth explanation, it’s giving me the confidence and I need to tackle it and respect for doing a job correctly
I always really liked the 2nd gen Camaros good luck with the build let me know how it turns out!
@@carthageclassiccars
I certainly will! Thanks again and keep up the great content
Great instruction. Great presentation.
Thank you!
This is a great series. Thank you for such clear instruction.
You are welcome!
Can’t wait for part 3! Any guesses when that will be ready?
It might be another few weeks it's really cold and can't paint the car until after Christmas. Not looking to have it all apart in pieces just sitting around the shop.
Thanks! I’m doing a restomod on a ‘72 International Scout II and your videos have been incredibly helpful!
It is so time consuming.
Yes it makes you appreciate a really slick paint job at the car shows and what went into them for sure.
Excellent job 💯
Thank you!
Ready for part 3!
Working on it now!
Thanks...
You are welcome!
A work of art 🎨
Thank you!
After bare metal you sprayed it with epoxy primer. Did you have to sand the epoxy primer before you did the filler work?
That is a great question. Yes when you add your Rage ultra or other filler out of the can you will have to follow the instructions on the can to prep the surface by sanding. If I remember right this one was somewhere around 120-220 grit. Also I like to use a DA sander very slow vs a straight long block it will help the filler stick.